Hi and Thanks for getting back. Glad my idea may help. If looking towards a small space heater I am getting excellent results from a plug-in Ceramic heater, as seen on Amazon etc. Happy Christmas T🚂🎄🎄
Good to see you up and about and on the road to recovery. You've plainly been busy and it's good to hear your plans. Assuming you're using the PECO turntable you don't need switches. You should have two semi circular copper fittings that fit on the floor of the turntable well . The brass contacts from the turntable bridge connect to these. When they come to the gap between the copper fittings they are dead and as they pass over they change the polarity. In the box on the back of the instructions should be a diagram to show you how to wire any tracks positioned in each quarter of the turntable. The bridge does the job of swapping polarity and you just have to match the lead off tracks. I did explain this very badly in an early video of mine (Episode 17). Let me know if this isn't clear enough (just drop me an email to the address at the end of my videos). One thing you might want to check before you get too far is that the bridge will pass over the scenic material you have put in the well. It's quite a tight fit from memory. Good luck with getting it wired up. Stephen
Hi Stephen many thanks for your comments on my channel, I must admit you tube does seem to have a good little community, yes I understand what you’re saying but it is the exit roads that I’m not sure about, remember I m operating DC, but my track power is coming from a DC bus wire so I’m just wondering if I had say s small shunter sitting on one of the exit roads surly it will move once any power is supplied if I want it to or not, anyway thanks again for watching me and please have a great Christmas….G
@@grahamthompson6406 Hi Graham, and you are right that I had forgotten you were running DC. In which case you will, as you say, need to isolate each exit road, and your idea of using switches to give power when you need seems to me a good way to do that. Stephen
Hi Graham, Regarding your proposals to box in the radiator, I have the following idea for you to consider, based on my own experience. The cladding of the rad and the forming of the air path, to retain convention, will still reduce the available space at baseboard level. My solution was to install a small (2kW) fan convector at low level and pipe tho to the existing rad connections, omitting the TRV temp control (. If fitted). The room temp is now controlled by switching the fan on the new unit. On the facia of the new convector are three grilles. One supplies warm air to the room at low level; the other two smaller grilles return the air to the heater. The units are available from the likes of Screwfix and are sold to be fitted in the facia of the ‘kick-boards’ found on kitchen base units. If you would like any further info or pictures please send me a message. Get fit soon and enjoy our great hobby. Regards T🚂🎄🎄
Hi… thanks for watching my video and for your comment, yes that sounds like a good idea I will definitely consider it, I also thought about turning the rad off and maybe putting a little space heater in there, either way I won’t be able to do it till well into the new year, anyway thanks again for commenting and here’s wishing you a happy Christmas…G
Hi and Thanks for getting back. Glad my idea may help. If looking towards a small space heater I am getting excellent results from a plug-in Ceramic heater, as seen on Amazon
etc. Happy Christmas T🚂🎄🎄
Thanks for the tips! That’s what I was thinking of..G
Good to see you up and about and on the road to recovery. You've plainly been busy and it's good to hear your plans. Assuming you're using the PECO turntable you don't need switches. You should have two semi circular copper fittings that fit on the floor of the turntable well . The brass contacts from the turntable bridge connect to these. When they come to the gap between the copper fittings they are dead and as they pass over they change the polarity. In the box on the back of the instructions should be a diagram to show you how to wire any tracks positioned in each quarter of the turntable. The bridge does the job of swapping polarity and you just have to match the lead off tracks. I did explain this very badly in an early video of mine (Episode 17). Let me know if this isn't clear enough (just drop me an email to the address at the end of my videos). One thing you might want to check before you get too far is that the bridge will pass over the scenic material you have put in the well. It's quite a tight fit from memory. Good luck with getting it wired up. Stephen
Hi Stephen many thanks for your comments on my channel, I must admit you tube does seem to have a good little community, yes I understand what you’re saying but it is the exit roads that I’m not sure about, remember I m operating DC, but my track power is coming from a DC bus wire so I’m just wondering if I had say s small shunter sitting on one of the exit roads surly it will move once any power is supplied if I want it to or not, anyway thanks again for watching me and please have a great Christmas….G
@@grahamthompson6406 Hi Graham, and you are right that I had forgotten you were running DC. In which case you will, as you say, need to isolate each exit road, and your idea of using switches to give power when you need seems to me a good way to do that. Stephen
Hi Graham, Regarding your proposals to box in the radiator, I have the following idea for you to consider, based on my own experience. The cladding of the rad and the forming of the air path, to retain convention, will still reduce the available space at baseboard level. My solution was to install a small (2kW) fan convector at low level and pipe tho to the existing rad connections, omitting the TRV temp control (. If fitted). The room temp is now controlled by switching the fan on the new unit. On the facia of the new convector are three grilles. One supplies warm air to the room at low level; the other two smaller grilles return the air to the heater. The units are available from the likes of Screwfix and are sold to be fitted in the facia of the ‘kick-boards’ found on kitchen base units. If you would like any further info or pictures please send me a message. Get fit soon and enjoy our great hobby. Regards T🚂🎄🎄
Hi… thanks for watching my video and for your comment, yes that sounds like a good idea I will definitely consider it, I also thought about turning the rad off and maybe putting a little space heater in there, either way I won’t be able to do it till well into the new year, anyway thanks again for commenting and here’s wishing you a happy Christmas…G