Hi Charlie. First time I have felt I should give feedback for one of your vids. I was always a pinner, now I will be a gluer. I have problems with my hands and all that fine drill work causes me diffiiculty. The mirror tip is especially useful, as maintaining track accuracy was always a problem for me. I have used a straight edge, but when pinning it always seemed to wander off line. Also, I used to pin in the middle of the track - from here on in I will pin the outer edge of each sleeper. Now I only need to pin at the rail joint - the glue will take care oif the rest. Please keep the vids coming - you probably have no idea how much unneccessary labour and anguish you save us poor artisans. It is a pleasure to watch one so experienced. As ever a picture is worth a 1000 words! Regards, Randal (I am a Pentax user, by the wat)
I used to pin now I use copydex it's brilliant for holding the track saves so much pinning I do put a couple in larger points and glue as well just to make sure.
I don't have a model railroad but I really enjoyed watching you laying track and I'm going to watch all the videos you have available. Its very relaxing.
My parents and older brother spent untold time and money putting together a slot car race track for me and my little brother for Christmas 1969. It encompassed every inch of a 4' X 8' X3/4" piece of plywood. On Christmas eve night, after me and my brother went to bed they set the elaborate set up on top of the dining room table and it took up most the space in the room. Well, after about a week it was time to move the whole set-up to the den area in our basement. Unfortunately when the set-up was lifted and moved the board, in which the tracks were attached by wood screws, flexed badly when moving and wound up breaking nearly every joint in the track sections. They had overbuilt everything but forgot to attach any bracing underneath to prevent flexing. They made several attempts to repair the breaks but it never did work right again. There were always dead spots in the tracks that when repaired two more would pop up. After a while, we lost interest in it and it just sat gathering dust for years in the basement. I don't remember what happened to it but I sure wish I had it now.
Thank you Charlie for making laying track not to be a nightmare, magazine's can be helpful but the actual visual is so much more informative. Thank you so much for going to the effort to help us.
I am pretty new to the hobby and my son and I are building our first layout. I learn so much from this channel so thank you. The best thing so far was finding out about the re-railer from Peco. My son is only 3 so can now put his trains onto the track all by himself and he loves it! Thank you.
Another great video Charlie. Like how you pinned the outside of the sleeper instead of the middle and one hole for the wires from your tracks to the underneath of your board's, so simple when you think about it but needs people like you to show us. Look forward to your next video Charlie, keep up the good work. All the best, Shawn.
Thank you for a very thorough presentation. My son, daughter and I are just getting involved with model trains and this type of information is very valuable. I will be working through your catalogue of videos.
Happy Christmas Charlie (Today's date Dec 25, 2023): at 19:34 your soldering technique is almost perfect, the only thing I could add is pre-tin the rails as well before attaching the wires, this will make the solder flow better when attaching your wires. A tip for you newbies, always keep your soldering iron tip clean of scuzzies (dirt, flux residue, etc) before applying solder to it, a quick wipe with a cotton cloth works much better than a wet sponge which will lower the temp of the tip. (background; electronics engineer (Hillyers, Stamford [UK] and master electrician, Canada)
Much has changed since that video Geo. I now use a brass mesh to clean the solder tip. I’m unsure why you didn’t see me tin the underpart of the rails. Perhaps I just missed that one. Best wishes for 2024, regards, Charlie
Another good video. After a 55 year break from model railways I've taken it up again. I took your advice with a magnet to check my track. So surprised that a lot of track I bought on a whim a few years ago was in fact steel. Great tip.
Happened on this valuable video today. At long last I have space for building a layout and found this invaluable. On strength of this, subscribed to your channel and bookmarked this video. Power to you!
Hi Charlie, I sure do like watching your videos. You are a fine instructor and shoot very good videos. Thanks for all your tips and instructions. Bob - Brecksville, Ohio
Hi Bob, thank you so much for your kind words. I find it particularly difficult to pick up US viewers so any advice would be very welcomed. Have a great Christmas, regards Charlie
Charlie, Well here is a quick one. I use Liquid Nails for Foam Projects in a calking gun for roadbed and pins for track. This basically a green foam adhesive that stays plyable. A thin smear is all that is needed to secure the roadbed down. Then another smear on top of the roadbed. Now when you pin your track, the smear will grab hold of the pin very firmly. Simply pull up the pins to move the track and repin thru the smear. If the roadbed needs to move, then the putty knive slices easily thru the smear and releases the roadbed. This is especially useful for those who use a foam board base. For you with pins thru plywood, it would work well to release the roadbed and then repin. So here is a project for you - - - - I am designing to use a Raspberry Pi 3 to connect via rs232/usb to my NEC Power Pro unit. I have the image for the pi that also contains JMRI and CUPS for printing the reports. Then with an android tablet - with Engine Throtte app ( for android) and wifi connected to the PI, I will be able to talk to the NEC directly as well as pull up JMRI and use that throttle thru the pi. CUPS will allow me to print the jmri reports to document my cv s and other items. As you may know, with jmri, you access your loco and with a single click, all settings in your decoder are sent to the jmri. No more coding cv s with a basic throttle, it is all in english or slider controls. All this runs off a micro sd memory card. Will let you know when I have it running. Bob
_Table leg elevators,_ just like at the Deli! Excellent idea, sir, and I thank you for sharing it with us all! My son made a box for the Dremel tool, that turned it into a miniature table saw. Great for consistent cuts, or grinding of model parts.
Another excellent inspiration. Neither a pinner nor a gluer shall I be - I will keep using screws, but I will use the tracksetta, the piece of wood and the 6 ft way guide. Thanks Charlie
Really enjoyed the video Charlie, particularly the idea of pinning outside the rails....very useful as always, love the easy going style and your clear methods.
Finally about to begin planning my first layout. Boards made, and occupying space in their new home. Bingeing on Charlie’s vids has made me much more confident of it being a success!
I model and used to exhibit in N gauge. I do exactly as you do with one exception. I put my pins in the centre of the track NEXT to the sleeper. I half push the pin in and then fold it over the sleeper. After balasting I then remove the pins with pliers thus avoiding holes in sleepers. Cheers, Bob
Vey helpful thanks. Your soldering of feeder wires to under rails is much better than to the side of rails! Would have liked a bit more about the advantages of glueing versus pinning track and vice versa. Your videos on track laying on the Peco website are really excellent too - they cover the 'little things' that often get forgotten by UA-cam demonstrators.
Like your soldering of the drops, very nice. I to hide them and go the extent to file off the solder from the side you can see when standing and watching the trains. Nice job...
First time viewer, and I found your video very well produced and genuinely helpful! I am in the planning stages for a layout which I will begin construction on this Spring; I look forward to viewing more of your efforts to help me in completing my task.....thank you!
Thank you Charlie. Just found your videos as I was starting to lay track on my first ever layout. You have saved me a lot of hassle (and possible swearing lol) Will be using glue over pins for sure. I have poor grip in my fingers, so this will make life easier for me. Your time, making these videos is very much appreciated. Kind regards Hamish
Charlie only recently discovered your videos. Thank you, they are informative, very helpful and superbly well put together in terms of content, composition and editing.
Another great video Charlie. Have downloaded everyone you have made so far. Keep up the good work. My garage is waiting to be plastered, hopefully next week, then painting etc. The train build will then start (after I have watched all your videos again). Cheers.
Greetings from Wintery Melbourne. I'm starting my first big layout and your video's are so so insightful and will save me making so many mistakes. A big big thanks. Keep them coming.
Another great video Charlie, I’m now using most of your tips on re laying my layout. Most interesting is you wanting a wider gap between the UP and DOWN lines, prototypically on multiple track lines (2 tracks in each direction) the gap between the UP and DOWN is set at 10 foot ... and hence is known as the 10 foot, to my eye as a (now retired) train driver when you laid the track out, it looked more realistic. Keep these excellent videos going, I really enjoy them
I congratulate you and I thank you. You gave me very good advice that I had no idea of them. The tasks are now better and easier. I unfortunately do not speak English, but your images are very eloquent. Sorry for the language I use the google translate
11:00 Good tip with the mirror. Another method for getting the track straight is to lay it along a straight edge although glue can make this tricky - an alternate is a straight strip of wood that fits between the rails that can double as a weight if glueing.
Brilliant charlie you make it so easy i just throw mine up but not any more thanks to this video Always happy to watch your video's Charlie thanks for sharing thanks paul
Great video but a small thing: 12:00 There's an easier way. Just drill much of the way through the plastic then hammer the pin in. That way you can remove the track with a tool but stop the track from moving of its own accord.
Charlie, this was really helpful. Thanks. I also appreciate using railroad books as weights -- I have a lot of them. Nice to know there is a choice between pins or glue -- and/or using both were applicable. - Dean from cold Minnesota USA
Good video, just came across it in 2022. One tip: for adjustable support legs a lag screw put in the bottom and nominally left sticking down 1/2 inch or so, can be easily adjusted up or down with an open ended wrench (spanner).
Charlie, I thought I was the only person that still had an olden wood level like yours. I love it and use it more than the newer metal one I have. Got the same saw horses too...I agree totally about track cutting...I like glueing better...Use a mirror as final inspection but use a metal 4 foot rule as a straight edge when laying the track. It won't warp or distort like wood will...Also use a string line and chalk to mark track centers....To keep track straight while glueing I use "T" pins on the outside of the track spaced as far out as a can of soup will let me as I use the can for weight. They fit between the track solidly and the track does not let them roll away.....I just use white glue as I can get it loose with water if I want to move a track...
Thanks David, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video. We seem to have very similar track laying techniques, although I imagine that we have both learnt the hard way.
A very useful guide and I thank you for that. I use track screws rather than track pins which should allow me to dismantle - if necessary - a little more easily.
@@ChadwickModelRailway My method is to layout the track - I use Peco Setrack - on cork. I then drill holes through the sleeper, using Peco's holes as a guide, using a pin vise. Then the track screws are fixed through these and remain in place. I then ballast in the scenic area only.
Charlie - another great video, many thanks for the tips. Although I solder my droppers under the rail like you, I feed them through the baseboard on the outside of the track, so I've made myself extra work to conceal the wire with the ballast. It's never occurred to me to drill between the rails! I'm about halfway through my latest track laying project, so I'll adopt your method from now on. I also like the mirror tip - it will show up kinks more easily than the naked eye and you don't have to stretch over the board to check the line furthest from the front.
@@ChadwickModelRailway The one good thing coming from this pandemic mess is that it is rekindling my interest in building a new layout. Well done videos, like yours, is helping me refresh techniques.
I found this incredibly useful thank you Charlie. Your videos are beautifully shot and informative. Now I have subscribed and I need to go back and catch up on all your back content! Looking forward to seeing Chadwick develop. Cheers, Andrew
As always, another great video full of very good tips. I particularly like the idea of attaching the droppers to the underside of the track rail. Will look forward to your next video. Cheers Greg
Just discovered your channel recently. I greatly enjoy your relaxed informative style. If I could do half as good in my videos, I'd be happy. Looking forward to more Cheers, Angus. (Waverley Cross).
Hi, Charlie, Did you do a video describing how to rasp your cork from the mainline to a subgrade onto foam? Perhaps you can let me know if there are any good ones describing this step in track laying/ Thanks so much. Happy New Year!!!!!
Hi Charlie Have you ever used double sided tape 5mm hick for track underlay its very cheap and really easy and especially with flexi track simply draw on the layout and bend and lay at the same time ,Use two strips of 20 mm side by side .Thanks for your tips and advice .Geoff
Excellent vid. Do you have a climate controlled room? I find temperature and air humidity can cause problems due to the use of various materials, which stretch and shrink at different rates. So I place plastic sheeting under the track and ballast as to keep some flex in the track, with just the one pin in the middle. This bit of flex keeps my rolling stock rather happy. Ballast once and never again, except for some small gaps at the joints.
dont know whats modern practice but sine I started 60 odd years ago the track was always lightly pinned, and the ballast took care of the rest.....only exceptions for pinning being in track areas they could be removed/ transported.....nice video, Howard, UK
Hi, I just want to ask you why you don't use a solder with its own flux core? I use a copper mix 0.7mm with a flux core and it save a lot of double handling, plus the copper adds strength to the join. Some of you solder joins look a little frosty which means its not a good electrical join, must be nice an shiny join with no ball or blob of solder but filled in smooth corners so it looks like its flowed in to the join (which it does do). I do my droppers on the bottom of the metal rail joiners myself so as not to muck up the track and possibly kink it. If I need an isolation section I make a very very short block sections on one side of the track rail and power the track up again at each end with the joiners. I do this the by cutting the actual track rail at the location of the flex track where I need the block and then trim it with a file so its shorter and then trim the slippers down so I can get the isolated joiner in which I have also trimmed down and them push the adjusted rail back onto the flex track through all the ties so you can't really see the isolated section. I also do something the same when I join 2 sections of track together - I cut the actual rails of the next flex section shorter by 1-2 sleepers (to allow for doing bends) so the sleeper/s stick past the rails them trim down the sleeper/s so the joiners can fit on top but allow the normal spacing between sleeper/s to place the drop cables through the layout. Its fiddly I know but in the end the line looks seamless.
A very helpful how-to. I am an avid modeller (across the pond), but have been out of the hobby so long, I've forgotten near everything. But my small shelf layout is proceeding, and videos like yours are helping me to catch and remember the fun of building! Thank you, and keep it up! As an aside - do you do operations on your layout, such as freight switching and such?
Hi Mike, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video. Yes I do carry out shunting etc building new train configurations. Hopefully you have subscribed too.
Another well presented, clear and useful video Charlie, thank you. Filling gaps in sleepers; I presume that is just cutting out single sleepers, shaving and sliding underneath where the gaps are, but how do you hold them in place, glued?
Just wanted to comment that I saw on a German guy's chanel (Freestyle Moba) that he used a long metal ruler to get nice and strict straights - but you did same with a slat at the end. The mirror is a good idea!
Hi Charlie, I like the way you solder the droppers to the underside of the rails and only drill one hole instead of two, makes sense. Do you solder droppers to every length of track? The track looks great especially from the onboard camera. Using your wife's mirror is also a good idea. I always look forward to lunch time on Friday's for the latest video. Very inspirational, thanks for sharing, Regards John.
Hi John, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it. Yes, I do put droppers on almost every piece of track. It just gives me much more confidence in its performance. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie do you do a video about removing the springs on the code 75 and 100 points. There are 2 types of springs unfortunately when I've tried I have ruined the point,any guidance would be appreciated
I've heard that Copydex is a very good glue to use for gluing down the track, and it is easy to lift the track with a wallpaper scraper as you suggest.
Not yet. I am in the planning/baseboard construction stage, I am basing my layout on the modified trackmat layout as shown in the latest Hornby track plan book. I am using the trackmat layout, plus extensions 1 and 4 ( flipped about the horizontal axis. This will give me an end to end and a round and round layout all in one. Cheers DaveH.
I used Copydex when laying my track last year. It certainly helps in reducing noise when trains are running. There has been no movement in the track so it's just as strong as PVA but without the noise. I would certainly recommend it.
Very nice again thank you Charlie, soundwise does it resonate more with pins than if you just glue it to the board or whatever trackbed is beeing used? What if one should decide on those insulating boards the same as you use for hills and monutainslopes etc, lees sound probably but too light for board perhaps?! I'm starting over for the 3:d time in adult life and this time I will have both the time and passion to do it right ;-) Cheers from Sweden again***
@@ChadwickModelRailway Ok thank you, just read on someones blog that a modern approach might work just as well with styrene-based boarding just make a wooden framework underneath and then it will be as stable but much less weight and easier to draw cables and put trees etc...!
Thank's Charlie I thoroughly enjoy your videos & this one especially! As a newcomer to the hobby I am planning a future layout but have a question regarding the droppers you solder to the rails & that is, if I am not using insulated track joiners how do I work out how many & how often I should position droppers? Keep up the great work, I always look forward to your vids , always professional & informative! Kind regards Nick
Hi Charlie and thanks for taking the time with your videos. Enjoyed all I've watched so far. Regarding not using old steel track because all it will do is rust, is that such a bad thing? Are there other reasons why not to use steel track? Magnets come to mind.
Hi Charles, a question, if you use the kork as a noise insulator using the pin you vanish all the work, because the pin transmits all the vibration directely from the wheels to the plywood.
Hi Charlie enjoying videos, came in from garage for a cuppa to give me a break from scribing the stone work on my castle for my layout, really wished I’d made it smaller. Just question who’s solder do you use, obviously very good for use with track.
Another great video Charlie 😊 Really enjoyed that one on laying track as I’ve always had a dilemma on pins or glue........🤔 Think you’ve show there’s not a lot in it!! Have a nice weekend Stevie.
Two questions if I may. What do you use to glue the cork to the board, and what do you use to glue the track to the cork?? Great video, I am now inspired to carry on.
Hi Barry, I use PVA to glue cork to the base board and either Copydex or Woodland Scenics foam track bed glue, to glue the track to the cork/foam track bed.
@@ChadwickModelRailway Yes but I think I will want to plan to spray outdoors to avoid the odours etc, if that is feasible within these planning stages, then you might need to insulate some parts ie soldering points etc...?!
I am a newcomer to railway modelling on my first layout. I am using what I was told is Atlas N scale code 80 flex track ( I don't have any corroborating evidence like labels etc), and am having considerable difficulty sliding the rail into the joiners. They just don't fit. The joiners are definitely code 80, as I have the label as confirmation. From what I read, difference in codes pertains basically to height. Will fitting a joiner of a different code lead to difficulties in fitting the rail into the joiner? Does the code make a difference as far as sliding the rail into the joiner is concerned?
@@ChadwickModelRailway monitored sir! I just tried a packet of SL-310 (Piko I think) metal rail joiners (for N/00-9) , stated (on the packet) to be suitable for codes 80 & 55. And it worked like a dream! So I'm sticking with SL-310.
Hello Charlie, I’m working with Marklin ‘Z’ gauge as I’ve only a tiny fraction of the space you have. For cutting the track I noticed a ‘chop-saw’ disc cutter on ‘Proses’ designed for cross cutting z gauge track and I just wondered if you or any of your colleagues has ever seen one in action; as I’m sure you’d appreciate there’s quite a difference in how you cut z gauge to any larger scales. Really interested on the gluing/pinning process, do you advocate soldering every join in the track or just occasional. Yours truly, ross
Hi Charlie.
First time I have felt I should give feedback for one of your vids. I was always a pinner, now I will be a gluer. I have problems with my hands and all that fine drill work causes me diffiiculty.
The mirror tip is especially useful, as maintaining track accuracy was always a problem for me. I have used a straight edge, but when pinning it always seemed to wander off line.
Also, I used to pin in the middle of the track - from here on in I will pin the outer edge of each sleeper.
Now I only need to pin at the rail joint - the glue will take care oif the rest.
Please keep the vids coming - you probably have no idea how much unneccessary labour and anguish you save us poor artisans. It is a pleasure to watch one so experienced. As ever a picture is worth a 1000 words!
Regards,
Randal (I am a Pentax user, by the wat)
Randal, it’s comments such as yours that make the production of these videos worthwhile.
Good luck with your layout.
Regards Charlie
I used to pin now I use copydex it's brilliant for holding the track saves so much pinning I do put a couple in larger points and glue as well just to make sure.
I always pin my track to make adjustments and reuse much easier/cheaper.
I don't have a model railroad but I really enjoyed watching you laying track and I'm going to watch all the videos you have available. Its very relaxing.
That’s very kind of you to say so Jack.
Regards Charlie
Love the way you take your time. Step by step, never skipping a detail. Very informative. Thank you.
You are so welcome MSR, I'm so pleased that you enjoyed it.
Absolutely extremely helpful video for a beginner....thank you for making it easy to understand!
That’s very kind of you to say so. Regards, Charlie
My parents and older brother spent untold time and money putting together a slot car race track for me and my little brother for Christmas 1969. It encompassed every inch of a 4' X 8' X3/4" piece of plywood. On Christmas eve night, after me and my brother went to bed they set the elaborate set up on top of the dining room table and it took up most the space in the room. Well, after about a week it was time to move the whole set-up to the den area in our basement. Unfortunately when the set-up was lifted and moved the board, in which the tracks were attached by wood screws, flexed badly when moving and wound up breaking nearly every joint in the track sections. They had overbuilt everything but forgot to attach any bracing underneath to prevent flexing. They made several attempts to repair the breaks but it never did work right again. There were always dead spots in the tracks that when repaired two more would pop up. After a while, we lost interest in it and it just sat gathering dust for years in the basement. I don't remember what happened to it but I sure wish I had it now.
What a sad tale. Great joy followed by much disapointment.
Thank you Charlie for making laying track not to be a nightmare, magazine's can be helpful but the actual visual is so much more informative. Thank you so much for going to the effort to help us.
That’s very kind of you to say so Stuart.
I am pretty new to the hobby and my son and I are building our first layout. I learn so much from this channel so thank you. The best thing so far was finding out about the re-railer from Peco. My son is only 3 so can now put his trains onto the track all by himself and he loves it!
Thank you.
Thanks Ben, it’s comments such as yours that make it worthwhile.
Thanks Charlie - just getting to the point where I'm laying track on a shelf shunter. Very useful information.
Thanks Pat, I’m so pleased that you find the channel useful. Regards Charlie
Another great video Charlie. Like how you pinned the outside of the sleeper instead of the middle and one hole for the wires from your tracks to the underneath of your board's, so simple when you think about it but needs people like you to show us. Look forward to your next video Charlie, keep up the good work. All the best, Shawn.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Shawn and thanks for the comment.
Thanks for all that detail, just about to lay some track for the first time for 40 years and now feel more confident to start.
Guy, I'm so pleased that you found the video useful.
Regards Charlie
Great video Charlie Very helpful. Since following you I to now glue my track down as it lowers the noise so much. Thank you for great tips. Bravo sir
Glad to help QC. Regards Charlie.
Fantastic informative video. A lot of patience is required to lay the tracks. Hope to see more of such videos from you. Thank you.
Hi Donald,
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it.
Regards Charlie
Hope to see more Charlie.
Thank you for a very thorough presentation. My son, daughter and I are just getting involved with model trains and this type of information is very valuable. I will be working through your catalogue of videos.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video Mark. Good luck with your layout. Regards Charlie
Happy Christmas Charlie (Today's date Dec 25, 2023): at 19:34 your soldering technique is almost perfect, the only thing I could add is pre-tin the rails as well before attaching the wires, this will make the solder flow better when attaching your wires.
A tip for you newbies, always keep your soldering iron tip clean of scuzzies (dirt, flux residue, etc) before applying solder to it, a quick wipe with a cotton cloth works much better than a wet sponge which will lower the temp of the tip. (background; electronics engineer (Hillyers, Stamford [UK] and master electrician, Canada)
Much has changed since that video Geo. I now use a brass mesh to clean the solder tip.
I’m unsure why you didn’t see me tin the underpart of the rails. Perhaps I just missed that one.
Best wishes for 2024,
regards, Charlie
Love the channel, starting my humble railway over again.
Good luck CRY, with your new project.
Regards Charlie
Another good video. After a 55 year break from model railways I've taken it up again. I took your advice with a magnet to check my track. So surprised that a lot of track I bought on a whim a few years ago was in fact steel. Great tip.
Hi John, I’m so pleased that you found the video useful.
Hopefully you have subscribed too.
Regards Charlie
Happened on this valuable video today. At long last I have space for building a layout and found this invaluable. On strength of this, subscribed to your channel and bookmarked this video. Power to you!
Hi, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video and it’s great to have you onboard. Regards Charlie
Thank you Charlie great I very much enjoyed it. It’s answered some of my questions like I said before you are a great teacher. Many thanks, David.
Thanks David, I’m so pleased that you found it useful. Regards Charlie
Thank you Charlie I am slowly going though your videos its a bit slow for me I think your videos are great regards David
Hi Charlie, I sure do like watching your videos. You are a fine instructor and shoot very good videos. Thanks for all your tips and instructions. Bob - Brecksville, Ohio
Hi Bob, thank you so much for your kind words. I find it particularly difficult to pick up US viewers so any advice would be very welcomed.
Have a great Christmas, regards Charlie
Charlie,
Well here is a quick one. I use Liquid Nails for Foam Projects in a calking gun for roadbed and pins for track. This basically a green foam adhesive that stays plyable. A thin smear is all that is needed to secure the roadbed down. Then another smear on top of the roadbed. Now when you pin your track, the smear will grab hold of the pin very firmly. Simply pull up the pins to move the track and repin thru the smear.
If the roadbed needs to move, then the putty knive slices easily thru the smear and releases the roadbed. This is especially useful for those who use a foam board base. For you with pins thru plywood, it would work well to release the roadbed and then repin.
So here is a project for you - - - -
I am designing to use a Raspberry Pi 3 to connect via rs232/usb to my NEC Power Pro unit. I have the image for the pi that also contains JMRI and CUPS for printing the reports.
Then with an android tablet - with Engine Throtte app ( for android) and wifi connected to the PI, I will be able to talk to the NEC directly as well as pull up JMRI and use that throttle thru the pi. CUPS will allow me to print the jmri reports to document my cv s and other items. As you may know, with jmri, you access your loco and with a single click, all settings in your decoder are sent to the jmri. No more coding cv s with a basic throttle, it is all in english or slider controls. All this runs off a micro sd memory card.
Will let you know when I have it running. Bob
Wow, thanks Bob. I’m not a JMRI user but Train-controller instead.
However, I’m interested in how you get on.
_Table leg elevators,_ just like at the Deli! Excellent idea, sir, and I thank you for sharing it with us all!
My son made a box for the Dremel tool, that turned it into a miniature table saw. Great for consistent cuts, or grinding of model parts.
Hi Odee, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video. It’s great to have you onboard. Regards Charlie
No worries Charlie. You have provided me with some inspiration in my retirement years. 👍👏
Another excellent inspiration. Neither a pinner nor a gluer shall I be - I will keep using screws, but I will use the tracksetta, the piece of wood and the 6 ft way guide. Thanks Charlie
If it works for you PC. Regards Charlie
Just discovered your channel tonight. Fantastic tuition I will be tuning in often as I hopefully recindle my childhood hobby. Thank you.
It’s great to have you onboard Kevin.
Hopefully you have subscribed too.
Regards Charlie
Really enjoyed the video Charlie, particularly the idea of pinning outside the rails....very useful as always, love the easy going style and your clear methods.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Stephen.
thank you for the lesson,I enjoy your teaching skills and your wisdom about the worlds greatest hobby.Cheers from Florida,U.S.A
.
i
Hi Jeff, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it. Regards Charlie.
Finally about to begin planning my first layout. Boards made, and occupying space in their new home. Bingeing on Charlie’s vids has made me much more confident of it being a success!
That’s great news Julian, I wish you good luck. Regards Charlie
I model and used to exhibit in N gauge. I do exactly as you do with one exception. I put my pins in the centre of the track NEXT to the sleeper. I half push the pin in and then fold it over the sleeper. After balasting I then remove the pins with pliers thus avoiding holes in sleepers. Cheers, Bob
There’s more than one way to skin a cat. Bob, I’m pleased that your way works too.
Vey helpful thanks. Your soldering of feeder wires to under rails is much better than to the side of rails! Would have liked a bit more about the advantages of glueing versus pinning track and vice versa. Your videos on track laying on the Peco website are really excellent too - they cover the 'little things' that often get forgotten by UA-cam demonstrators.
Thanks Tez, I’m so pleased that you find the videos. Interesting. Regards Charlie
Like your soldering of the drops, very nice. I to hide them and go the extent to file off the solder from the side you can see when standing and watching the trains. Nice job...
Thanks David, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed It
Great tip about cutting track from the side rather than on top!!! Thank you so much.
You’re most welcome, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it.
Excellent video, the idea pinning outer sleeper so good, not what I did and as you say the centre pinning makes the sleeper dip.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Richard.
First time viewer, and I found your video very well produced and genuinely helpful! I am in the planning stages for a layout which I will begin construction on this Spring; I look forward to viewing more of your efforts to help me in completing my task.....thank you!
I’m so pleased that you found the video useful and hopefully you have subscribed too.
Yes indeed, I look forward to more of your nicely produced videos!
Thank you Charlie. Just found your videos as I was starting to lay track on my first ever layout. You have saved me a lot of hassle (and possible swearing lol) Will be using glue over pins for sure. I have poor grip in my fingers, so this will make life easier for me. Your time, making these videos is very much appreciated. Kind regards Hamish
I'm so pleased that you enjoyed it LC.
10:54 is track pinning. Very good video, thanks.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it GT
Charlie only recently discovered your videos. Thank you, they are informative, very helpful and superbly well put together in terms of content, composition and editing.
Thanks so much. I’m so pleased that you enjoyed them.
Hopefully you have subscribed too.
Another great video Charlie. Have downloaded everyone you have made so far. Keep up the good work. My garage is waiting to be plastered, hopefully next week, then painting etc. The train build will then start (after I have watched all your videos again). Cheers.
Hi PG,
I’m so pleased that you’re enjoying them. Say tuned.
Regards Charlie
Thanks, Charlie. Really helps me with my tracklaying.
Thanks Trevor, I’m so pleased that you found the video useful. Regards Charlie
Greetings from Wintery Melbourne. I'm starting my first big layout and your video's are so so insightful and will save me making so many mistakes. A big big thanks. Keep them coming.
Hi Mark, from a blistering hot England (this isn’t normal).
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video.
Good luck with your layout.
Regards Charlie
Another great video Charlie, I’m now using most of your tips on re laying my layout. Most interesting is you wanting a wider gap between the UP and DOWN lines, prototypically on multiple track lines (2 tracks in each direction) the gap between the UP and DOWN is set at 10 foot ... and hence is known as the 10 foot, to my eye as a (now retired) train driver when you laid the track out, it looked more realistic. Keep these excellent videos going, I really enjoy them
Thanks Gary that’s most kind of you to say so mate.
Regards Charlie
I congratulate you and I thank you. You gave me very good advice that I had no idea of them. The tasks are now better and easier. I unfortunately do not speak English, but your images are very eloquent. Sorry for the language I use the google translate
Thank you and good luck with your layout. Regards Charlie
Thank you for your videos. I always find them useful and with many good tips and ideas
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed them GB.
verry nice job, Charly! t he tip of the mirror is pretty useful. Many thanks
I’m so pleased that you found it useful.
11:00 Good tip with the mirror. Another method for getting the track straight is to lay it along a straight edge although glue can make this tricky - an alternate is a straight strip of wood that fits between the rails that can double as a weight if glueing.
Good tip Graham
A great video, thank you for all the information on doing track work.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it
Hi Charlie,
many thanks for taking time out to produce these very useful vids. As I always say you never stop learning.
Regards, Dave.
I’m so pleased that you enjoy them Dave
Wow, thanks for such a clear demo of soldering.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Paul.
Brilliant charlie you make it so easy i just throw mine up but not any more thanks to this video
Always happy to watch your video's Charlie thanks for sharing thanks paul
Hi Paul, if I can inspire then my job is done. I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it.
@@ChadwickModelRailway i normally skip videos but yours i dont i watch it send the kids out and wife out lol are you going to the nec in November??
Yes, hopefully I’ll be there on the Sunday.
Great video Charlie. Tools I never would have even thought of. I can't wait until I can get started on my layout.
Thanks and good luck with your layout.
An excellent instructional video. Thank you.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it DJ.
A really good instructional video. I thought I knew everything how to glue/pin the track...but this video provided me with some new hints.
I’m so pleased that you found it useful.
Great video but a small thing: 12:00 There's an easier way. Just drill much of the way through the plastic then hammer the pin in. That way you can remove the track with a tool but stop the track from moving of its own accord.
Makes sense.
Charlie, this was really helpful. Thanks. I also appreciate using railroad books as weights -- I have a lot of them. Nice to know there is a choice between pins or glue -- and/or using both were applicable. - Dean from cold Minnesota USA
Hi Dean, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it.
Good luck with your layout.
Regards Charlie.
Very informative, Very helpful, I very much enjoyed watching and learning .
Thanks Karl, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it.
Good video, just came across it in 2022.
One tip: for adjustable support legs a lag screw put in the bottom and nominally left sticking down 1/2 inch or so, can be easily adjusted up or down with an open ended wrench (spanner).
You make an excellent point mate. Take care, regards Charlie
Charlie, I thought I was the only person that still had an olden wood level like yours. I love it and use it more than the newer metal one I have. Got the same saw horses too...I agree totally about track cutting...I like glueing better...Use a mirror as final inspection but use a metal 4 foot rule as a straight edge when laying the track. It won't warp or distort like wood will...Also use a string line and chalk to mark track centers....To keep track straight while glueing I use "T" pins on the outside of the track spaced as far out as a can of soup will let me as I use the can for weight. They fit between the track solidly and the track does not let them roll away.....I just use white glue as I can get it loose with water if I want to move a track...
Thanks David, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video. We seem to have very similar track laying techniques, although I imagine that we have both learnt the hard way.
A very useful guide and I thank you for that. I use track screws rather than track pins which should allow me to dismantle - if necessary - a little more easily.
Hi Alec,
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it.
Do you remove the track screws as you lay the ballast?
@@ChadwickModelRailway My method is to layout the track - I use Peco Setrack - on cork. I then drill holes through the sleeper, using Peco's holes as a guide, using a pin vise. Then the track screws are fixed through these and remain in place. I then ballast in the scenic area only.
Charlie - another great video, many thanks for the tips. Although I solder my droppers under the rail like you, I feed them through the baseboard on the outside of the track, so I've made myself extra work to conceal the wire with the ballast. It's never occurred to me to drill between the rails! I'm about halfway through my latest track laying project, so I'll adopt your method from now on. I also like the mirror tip - it will show up kinks more easily than the naked eye and you don't have to stretch over the board to check the line furthest from the front.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Neil and hopefully you’ve subscribed too.
Terrific video. Just getting back into hobby and your vodeo was perfect for how to lay track.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Pat.
@@ChadwickModelRailway The one good thing coming from this pandemic mess is that it is rekindling my interest in building a new layout. Well done videos, like yours, is helping me refresh techniques.
New to your site sir. Well done. Absorbing lots of info, will take time to sort it all out.
Thanks Kurt, I’m so pleased that you enjoy my videos.
I found this incredibly useful thank you Charlie. Your videos are beautifully shot and informative. Now I have subscribed and I need to go back and catch up on all your back content! Looking forward to seeing Chadwick develop. Cheers, Andrew
Andrew you’re too kind.
I’m so pleased that you enjoy my videos and good luck with your layout.
As always, another great video full of very good tips. I particularly like the idea of attaching the droppers to the underside of the track rail. Will look forward to your next video. Cheers Greg
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Greg.
Just discovered your channel recently. I greatly enjoy your relaxed informative style. If I could do half as good in my videos, I'd be happy. Looking forward to more Cheers, Angus. (Waverley Cross).
Hi Angus,
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video. If you saw my out-takes you’d realise that it’s not so good!
Hi, Charlie, Did you do a video describing how to rasp your cork from the mainline to a subgrade onto foam? Perhaps you can let me know if there are any good ones describing this step in track laying/ Thanks so much. Happy New Year!!!!!
No, sorry Warren, that’s something that I’ve never covered. Regards Charlie
Hi i just have a few pins and the ballast secures the track. Great shows.
Good idea Darren. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie
Do you have detail of how you chose to join / fix tracks at baseboard joins in any of your videos?
No ben, I just use short lengths of track where necessary. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie Have you ever used double sided tape 5mm hick for track underlay its very cheap and really easy and especially with flexi track simply draw on the layout and bend and lay at the same time ,Use two strips of 20 mm side by side .Thanks for your tips and advice .Geoff
Hi Geoff, I can’t recall ever seeing it. Where did you get it and is it any good for deadening sound?
Excellent vid. Do you have a climate controlled room? I find temperature and air humidity can cause problems due to the use of various materials, which stretch and shrink at different rates. So I place plastic sheeting under the track and ballast as to keep some flex in the track, with just the one pin in the middle. This bit of flex keeps my rolling stock rather happy. Ballast once and never again, except for some small gaps at the joints.
No special arrangements just s normal heating system here in the UK
This video has been popping up a lot for me recently so I thought i'd give it a watch! Definately not disappointed so far :D
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it MDH. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie A very interesting video, lots of very useful tips thanks for posting Dave
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Dave. Regards Charlie.
Hi Charlie, very informative video! Thank you for posting.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Matt.
dont know whats modern practice but sine I started 60 odd years ago the track was always lightly pinned, and the ballast took care of the rest.....only exceptions for pinning being in track areas they could be removed/ transported.....nice video, Howard, UK
Thanks Howard, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it
Like the idea of track pins on the outside of the rails.
I agree, it is a sensible method. Regards, Charlie.
Nice to see you again Charlie. I us a 2ft steel rule against the rail because I find sleepers are sometimes different lengths. Geoff. W.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Geoff. Good luck with your layout. Regards Charlie
Hi, I just want to ask you why you don't use a solder with its own flux core? I use a copper mix 0.7mm with a flux core and it save a lot of double handling, plus the copper adds strength to the join. Some of you solder joins look a little frosty which means its not a good electrical join, must be nice an shiny join with no ball or blob of solder but filled in smooth corners so it looks like its flowed in to the join (which it does do). I do my droppers on the bottom of the metal rail joiners myself so as not to muck up the track and possibly kink it. If I need an isolation section I make a very very short block sections on one side of the track rail and power the track up again at each end with the joiners. I do this the by cutting the actual track rail at the location of the flex track where I need the block and then trim it with a file so its shorter and then trim the slippers down so I can get the isolated joiner in which I have also trimmed down and them push the adjusted rail back onto the flex track through all the ties so you can't really see the isolated section. I also do something the same when I join 2 sections of track together - I cut the actual rails of the next flex section shorter by 1-2 sleepers (to allow for doing bends) so the sleeper/s stick past the rails them trim down the sleeper/s so the joiners can fit on top but allow the normal spacing between sleeper/s to place the drop cables through the layout. Its fiddly I know but in the end the line looks seamless.
I do, I use a 60.40 resin core solder.
Good tip regarding the sleeper spacing.
1” finishing nail works good for me right now. I have a 4x8 layout with sectional track, so it makes maintenance/repairs easy
If it works and looks good, that’s great.
Chadwick Model Railway Thx
Great video and the perfect amount of details to explain what is going on.
I am keen to see how it all progresses.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video. Regards Charlie
Another great guide, thanks Charlie. I saw the cork, the price of which seems to have gone through the roof, is there an alternaive?
No Wayne, not one that I can suggest. Regards, Charlie
A very helpful how-to. I am an avid modeller (across the pond), but have been out of the hobby so long, I've forgotten near everything. But my small shelf layout is proceeding, and videos like yours are helping me to catch and remember the fun of building! Thank you, and keep it up!
As an aside - do you do operations on your layout, such as freight switching and such?
Hi Mike, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video. Yes I do carry out shunting etc building new train configurations.
Hopefully you have subscribed too.
indeed I have!
@@ChadwickModelRailway I would love to see a tour of your layout, such as staging yards, rail yards, main lines, etc!
Sorry Mike
But this video stream is about the building of a new layout.
I’m sure the yards will come in time
Hang on in there mate.
Another well presented, clear and useful video Charlie, thank you. Filling gaps in sleepers; I presume that is just cutting out single sleepers, shaving and sliding underneath where the gaps are, but how do you hold them in place, glued?
Hi David, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it. Yes I just glue sleepers in the gaps having removed the chairs.
What was that tool for making sure the track is straight at 22:01 ?
It’s made by Peco and called a tracksetta Gauge
Just wanted to comment that I saw on a German guy's chanel (Freestyle Moba) that he used a long metal ruler to get nice and strict straights - but you did same with a slat at the end. The mirror is a good idea!
Yes Peter, the use of a mirror really is a great asset. Regards Charlie
Awesome as always, thank you Charlie.
You’re most welcome.
What kind of glue was used? Timebond makes several glues. Thanks.
I use copydex Nikolaos. Regards Charlie
Yet another excellent video. Many thanks.(hope you had a productive July)
Hi Alan, yes it was productive but pretty rough.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video.
Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie, I like the way you solder the droppers to the underside of the rails and only drill one hole instead of two, makes sense. Do you solder droppers to every length of track? The track looks great especially from the onboard camera. Using your wife's mirror is also a good idea. I always look forward to lunch time on Friday's for the latest video. Very inspirational, thanks for sharing, Regards John.
Hi John,
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it.
Yes, I do put droppers on almost every piece of track. It just gives me much more confidence in its performance.
Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie do you do a video about removing the springs on the code 75 and 100 points. There are 2 types of springs unfortunately when I've tried I have ruined the point,any guidance would be appreciated
Sadly, Barry, I don’t use code 75 points. However, I really can’t see them being much different than code 100. Regards Charlie
I've heard that Copydex is a very good glue to use for gluing down the track, and it is easy to lift the track with a wallpaper scraper as you suggest.
Hi David,
You’re not the first to mention Copydex.
Have you tried it?
Not yet. I am in the planning/baseboard construction stage, I am basing my layout on the modified trackmat layout as shown in the latest Hornby track plan book. I am using the trackmat layout, plus extensions 1 and 4 ( flipped about the horizontal axis. This will give me an end to end and a round and round layout all in one.
Cheers DaveH.
David Houghton
It sounds interesting, good luck with your layout.
I used Copydex when laying my track last year. It certainly helps in reducing noise when trains are running. There has been no movement in the track so it's just as strong as PVA but without the noise. I would certainly recommend it.
Very nice again thank you Charlie, soundwise does it resonate more with pins than if you just glue it to the board or whatever trackbed is beeing used? What if one should decide on those insulating boards the same as you use for hills and monutainslopes etc, lees sound probably but too light for board perhaps?! I'm starting over for the 3:d time in adult life and this time I will have both the time and passion to do it right ;-) Cheers from Sweden again***
Yes pinning does transmit the sound into baseboards.
For my scenic areas I use Woodland Scenics foam trackbed.
@@ChadwickModelRailway Ok thank you, just read on someones blog that a modern approach might work just as well with styrene-based boarding just make a wooden framework underneath and then it will be as stable but much less weight and easier to draw cables and put trees etc...!
Thank's Charlie I thoroughly enjoy your videos & this one especially! As a newcomer to the hobby I am planning a future layout but have a question regarding the droppers you solder to the rails & that is, if I am not using insulated track joiners how do I work out how many & how often I should position droppers? Keep up the great work, I always look forward to your vids , always professional & informative! Kind regards Nick
Hi Nick, for DCC regardless of insulated joiners, it’s best practice for all rails to have a power feed.
@@ChadwickModelRailway Thanks for that Charlie.
What is the reasoning for pinning both ends of the sleeper rather than one in the center? Is it for additional stability while the glue dries?
No it was about the best way to pin or to use glue. By pinning the outside of the sleepers with tiny pins makes them almost invisible.
Wow..awesome update and how to.. thanks for sharing and keep up the great work.. Lance
Hi Lance, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it.
Hi Charlie and thanks for taking the time with your videos. Enjoyed all I've watched so far. Regarding not using old steel track because all it will do is rust, is that such a bad thing? Are there other reasons why not to use steel track? Magnets come to mind.
It’s just that keeping it clean can be challenging Ronan.
@@ChadwickModelRailway Thanks Charlie.
Hi Charles, a question, if you use the kork as a noise insulator using the pin you vanish all the work, because the pin transmits all the vibration directely from the wheels to the plywood.
So true VC, stick around. In a couple of weeks I’ve another video planned regarding noise suppression.
Thanks Charlie, I’ll wait for it. Keep it up.
Hi Charlie enjoying videos, came in from garage for a cuppa to give me a break from scribing the stone work on my castle for my layout, really wished I’d made it smaller. Just question who’s solder do you use, obviously very good for use with track.
Hi Colin, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video.
The solder is Maplins Lead Free. It does perform very well and sadly Maplins will soon be gone!
24:37 hanging out the washing haha love it
Wives, they’re great.
What is the size of the drill bit for the sleepers thanks?
Hi Richard, it's 1.3mm. Regards Charlie
Another great video Charlie 😊 Really enjoyed that one on laying track as I’ve always had a dilemma on pins or glue........🤔 Think you’ve show there’s not a lot in it!! Have a nice weekend Stevie.
Hi Stevie, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it. Have a good one too.
Two questions if I may. What do you use to glue the cork to the board, and what do you use to glue the track to the cork?? Great video, I am now inspired to carry on.
Hi Barry, I use PVA to glue cork to the base board and either Copydex or Woodland Scenics foam track bed glue, to glue the track to the cork/foam track bed.
@@ChadwickModelRailway Many thanks...
I also wonder if you'll spray these tracks w. the wooden-look-spray you used in another video as it is already mounted and obviously indoors now?
Yes but wear some breathing protection from the emamel paint fumes.
@@ChadwickModelRailway Yes but I think I will want to plan to spray outdoors to avoid the odours etc, if that is feasible within these planning stages, then you might need to insulate some parts ie soldering points etc...?!
I am a newcomer to railway modelling on my first layout. I am using what I was told is Atlas N scale code 80 flex track ( I don't have any corroborating evidence like labels etc), and am having considerable difficulty sliding the rail into the joiners. They just don't fit. The joiners are definitely code 80, as I have the label as confirmation. From what I read, difference in codes pertains basically to height. Will fitting a joiner of a different code lead to difficulties in fitting the rail into the joiner?
Does the code make a difference as far as sliding the rail into the joiner is concerned?
As long as the rail heights match and the rails are held tightly, I cant see any problem.
Please rember though, that I'm not an N Scale modeller!
@@ChadwickModelRailway monitored sir!
I just tried a packet of SL-310 (Piko I think) metal rail joiners (for N/00-9) , stated (on the packet) to be suitable for codes 80 & 55. And it worked like a dream! So I'm sticking with SL-310.
Hello Charlie, I’m working with Marklin ‘Z’ gauge as I’ve only a tiny fraction of the space you have. For cutting the track I noticed a ‘chop-saw’ disc cutter on ‘Proses’ designed for cross cutting z gauge track and I just wondered if you or any of your colleagues has ever seen one in action; as I’m sure you’d appreciate there’s quite a difference in how you cut z gauge to any larger scales. Really interested on the gluing/pinning process, do you advocate soldering every join in the track or just occasional.
Yours truly,
ross
Please don’t solder every joint. With heat expansion your track could buckle. Perhaps solder every other joint if you wish.