Very true. Although these days it's no longer common, using lighting that generates UV (fluorescent, vapor discharge, etc.) on a dry environment, generates also ozone, which is an active oxidant.
Thank you for a comprehensive and sensible presentation. The sad part is that no matter what you have said there are going to be many people who disagree with you. I like what you have said and the polite way that you have said it.
Hi Martin, I’m totally agree with you because in my 40 years experience, I finally do exactly all you described. In addition, instead a wood piece, I use a small piece of cork , it is better than wood. And in my case, I use the catenary to supply power to the locomotive ( I only have electric locomotives), and to clean the pantos I use a chemical product, because it’s very important to keep a good electrical connectivity to all the moving parts of the pantograph. Since I use it, the electrical problems disappear. But as you mentioned, never for cleaning the trucks. Best regards from Spain
I use a high volatility, non polar product with a lint free cloth on areas that get less traffic, and maintain the locomotives with the necessary lubricants to prevent internal wear and wheel contamination. So, I agree that the best approach is to run the trains.
Good advice. I would add, cleaning all wheels (not only the power wheels, but all wheels on all cars, as these will grab dirt from the tracks and then put it back after you clean the tracks) and, what is mostly overlooked, cleaning the contacts carrying current from the wheels, inside the engines.
I recently purchased some 20 year old peco N gauge track and points for a very good price. They had been sitting in a damp garage for most of that time so oxidisation was heavy and the points were very sluggish. The first thing I did was to soak it all in a tub of rust removal solution for about 2 hours. This removed the oxidisation but left the good metal and plastics untouched. Then I washed and dried it all thoroughly. I then sprayed the point mechanisms with generous amounts of electrical contact cleaner whilst operating them until they made that nice satisfying click sound. I then set to work carefully with used 800 grade followed by slightly wetted 1200 grade paper until the track surfaces achieved a mirror finish. The last step was to polish the rails with a slightly damp cloth using only tiny amounts of metal polish before cleaning everything up with generous amounts of electrical contact cleaner spray prior to buffing it all up with a clean dry cotton cloth. Every thing is as good as new now and thanks to your advice I now know how to keep it that way. In the meantime I'm off to find a wooden block.
For over 10 years I looked after a model railway at a museum in Auckland, New Zealand. For most of it, I used a cork sanding block from the local hardware store. No chemicals and no residue. Always did a good job
Very useful informative talk. I learned from a colleague at college to use lollipop sticks which can be bought in bundles of a hundred for cleaning and polishing metal. They are good because they are clean and will not leave scratches. A block of wood is easier to hold if the track is laid.
I have found that like you said it takes a lot of passes to clean with a track cleaning car. Thank you so much for suggesting the wood block!!! I’ve been so scared of using stuff that will scratch the finish on the rails causing them to get funky faster but now I can just go and clean!
Thank you for these tips and information. I read a long time back: NEVER run PLASTIC WHEELS! The plastic is a dirt magnet and then SPREADS the dirt all over your layout. If you have any rolling stock you particularly like with plastic wheels, its super easy to replace the plastic wheels with metal wheel sets. Thx again!
A few nights a week I go to the layout and run the trains around a few laps and like you said - dirty track is never an issue. This also brings up the issue of why continuous run layouts have a huge advantage here and why all modellers should consider this when planning a layout.
I use a small piece of tempered Masonite (hardboard) to which two nails have been glued and inserted into two holes in the bottom of a boxcar. A small weight is put on top of the nails to keep pressure on the hardboard. Bevel the front and back edges of the hardboard so it doesn't get caught on turnouts, and paint the top and sides flat black, along with the nails. I run these as a normal part of my trains, and the hardboard acts as very mild abrasive to keep the track clean. A search of the internet will reveal plenty of instructions on how to make these.
A lot of great tips! I typically use a wooden block or a piece of cork. When things get really bad I use a fender washer to polish out the scratches on the rails.
I really enjoy watching your stuff! I'm one of those crazy modelers that can dream up all kinds of stuff! I use a locomotive that uses the motor to vibrate a nearly microscopic pad between the wheels of the trucks that has 1200 grit sandpaper which polishes the rails. I have to change the polishing paper from time to time though. No big deal!!!!
Thank you for this presentation. When the rails are scratched, i rub them in with a soft pencil, the graphite conducts very good and flattens the scratches. Regards Arjen
I used the rubber block too, for me it was too abbrasive and messy. Now I use plastic safe electronic contact cleaner (no oil or waterdiluted alcohols, but made to ensure clean electrical conductivity) and a regular microfiber towel. Works like a charm and isn't abbrasive at all, no traction lost either...
I love your videos. Great presentation on top of stunningly nice models. Hey, I was scouring videos on cleaning tracks and I had to tell you the 3 tips that I learned from multiple people on here: 1.) use lint free eyeglass cleaning fabric clothes, instead of regular cotton. You won’t leave fabric particles behind. 2.) don’t use rubbing alcohol. Use mineral spirits. The reason is when exposed to electrical current, apparently the alcohol behaves differently than the mineral spirits, and it has something to do with polarity. The other one you can use is WD40 CONTACT CLEANER (not the normal stuff). Again certain cleaners somehow leave a residue that creates more arching and putting in the track causing more oxidation, which is why the tracks get black. 3.) you want to buy a special grease that’s been used by some railroad guys since the late 60s. It’s called NO-OX-ID A-SPECIAL HD Anti Corrosion Electrical Contact Grease and you put it on and wipe it off, and apparently all you have to do from there forward is to just wipe it down from time to time. People are talking about it like it’s a miracle and they don’t have to clean their track for YEARS. Sounds too good to be true, but once you realize why the track corrodes, this will make sense. Again, I can’t remember what video discussed this grease, but it had links at the bottom to someone who, similar to you, tested a bunch of things, and found that mineral spirits and this grease were the right polarity, to negate the staticky dirt, and was better than using alcohol, etc. to the point he changed everything he was doing and now is an evangelist for this stuff.
I found the No ox unbelievably expensive ie $80 inc post in Australia for what is likely a fad. and it is apparently not recommended for traction wheels and steam locos.
Hi thanks for a genuine explanation. I am an Aussie and the current almost hysteria about Inox is so ill founded, It relies upon Lanolin (from sheeps wool) and is the best product ever for tools and gardening . farming and fishing equipment.Even electrical contact cleaners ruin running charactoristics of the locos, especially steam types -Mine just sun their wheels until I cleaned the track with IPA. On that many rabbet on about Isopropyl Alcohol being bad However they spoeak of 70% and even 99% product which contain water and other additives, 100% is the only version to use and cleans perfectly
Thank you for a very complete and helpful video! One of the very issues for any model railroader is the track cleaning. Your advices are so helpful. The wooden block is the tip of the year !!
Best video ever on track cleaning! Glad you cleared the air about abravises. They should be banned. My cleaning routine is using a vacuum cleaner to gather the dust and then a CMX cleaning car filled with Goo-Gone(limolene) around the layout. Works well for me and i have grades.
Because of a silly choice I made when I was a teenager and started my layout, it runs Marklin AC stock on Pola (el cheapo Fleischmann) rails. It does this because the third rail on my layout is actual catenary. So my layout is basically unbothered by what little dirt builds up. Both rails are neutral and the catenary carries the AC phase. As the catenary doesn't collect dust on the underside and all my locs have been re-wired so that all the wheels are used for the neutral. For me when a train stops unexpectedly it's usually because the thin wire on top of the pantograph has worn out or broken.
I have to admit, I'm a Christmas train person. Our layout has a Lionel O gauge going around the tree. The Z gauge train is way back on a mountain .... that's why is looks so small. Z gauge is notorious for poor contact because of the light weight. I tried many different things and nothing really worked. I finally stumbled upon the Gaugemaster HF-2 that uses high frequency and voltage to literally blow away particles. When I 1st put the Z train engine only, on the track, it hesitates every few inches. The HF-2 takes care of it, and after a few minutes is runs better and better. I'm a happy camper!
Growing up in Europe model trains that used AC were always something mystical for a DC kid, reserved solely for serious German modellers. You have an impressive set up. As for the video, this is quality content: great editing, good lighting, and a fabulous voice to go along with it.
Thanks for a video on this so common problem. I think you covered it all except for one little product manufactured and sold by Noch and Woodland scenics. They call it dust monkeys and it simply is a small foam covered pad you mount on one of the wheel axels of a freightcar. Run this in all of your trains and that problem is much smaller. I have used them for years and they do work. No chemicals. They are made in both N and Ho scale. Great information anyway !
Lots of answers to many questions. I use 3 items; isopropanol just after the paintjob on my rails, a Dapol cleaning wagon that I use for vacuum cleaning and as last ... a wine bottle cork for dry cleaning. That cork is very effective, has the correct dimension for HO, is not too hard and is very comfortable to use. Only problem ... I have to drink wine on a (not too) regular base ... but that's fun too.
Hi Martin. I have now hired Pinocchio to service by tracks. He’s a pretty good worker, but that pesky Cricket keeps whispering in his ear. Thanks for your take on an always touchy subject. See ya next time.
hard to look like your having fun when this topic goes up, but you did it pretty good. what I use is just a couple Bachman cleaning cars, like you said It prevents build up. try to run them on a train every time I am operating on the layout. I also have the cmx tank car and a vacuum car, that I use once in awhile. most times, just alcohol on a cloth, clean and wipe dry
Excellent video. Thanks for sharing. For what it's worth, Ron's Train N Things did a UA-cam video, "Stop Cleaning Your Track on Your Model Railroad," where he recommends: (1) wiping the track with odorless mineral spirits, and (2) applying a thin coat of NO-OX-ID A Special Formula Electrical Contact Grease (Part No. 10203) to help prevent oxidation. It supposedly keeps metals free from rust and oxidation. Amazon has it for $8.70 in the US. Your mileage may vary.
Hi Timothy, Yes, I think most people who have a good experience using oil based liquids cleaning tracks are really seeing the positive effects it has from preventing corrosion. My philosofy is to remove the root cause, meaning the humidity. If you have more than 60% rh you need a de-humidifier in the layout room. With lower %rh there will be no need for greese or oil.
Thank you Martin for your advice, it is like that, many over-lubricate and this dirtyes the tracks, it is the main problem, I use liquid lubricating waxes for the axles of the wagons, when this solidifies the bearing remains dry and does not absorb the dust To clean the tracks I use isopropyl alcohol, this does not leave the surface with oils and removes all the dirt, I use it at least three times. All the cleaning cars do their job well but they are only for maintenance, first a deep cleaning must be done, nothing better than manual cleaning with a cloth and a little isopropyl! Very important, the wheels of the wagons must be metal, the plastic ones release particles that dirty the rails, greetings!
Simple track cleaning and it works!!! I have been running my trains for 6 years and has never cleaned my tracks. My story : After laying track I clean once with a track cleaning pad, only once. Thereafter I use ATF Automatic transmission fluid (The red one) as follows. Using ear bud dipped in ATF I apply about 300mm to each track at the highest point on my layout. My circles are 114m long, so apply less for smaller layouts. Only at one point, don’t overdue it. The loco and wagon wheels will spread the ATF onto all the tracks over a period of time. You will have no mug built-up on wheels at all. There might be a little bit of loco slippage for a short while after applying ATF but it disappears quickly. Do not wipe any oily substance off the tracks at all. I reapply the moment any loco misses a beat anywhere on the layout, usually once every 2 to 3 months. Small bonus, after 6 years my track already looks a little weathered. Train friends, I was very sceptical about this method but believe me IT WORKS. I used the MIDAS ATF Automatic transmission fluid (The red fluid one) Watch my layout in progress on You Tube ua-cam.com/video/7B_GW2gJ0L0/v-deo.html
Thank you for this. I use the end of a wooden chop stick to clean my track, it helps to reach all the difficult areas I can't fit my hands into. I also have used WD40, won't be doing that again!
The WD40 became fashionable in a moment, I don't know who came up with it, it made a mess on the tracks, everything was filled with oil, the wheels of the wagons were left with a hard coating, it took me a long time to remove that crap , the best is isopropyl alcohol, it cleans perfect and evaporates in seconds .....
This is wonderful news. At my next running session, I will tell my wife that I am cleaning the track for the next hour. (LOL) Great show and thank you for your advice.
Hi Martin thank you for a very good video a lot of people make mistakes When they clean the tracks I have been cleaning with a wooden block for a couple of years now and it works
excellent points. prior, I would use 3 locos in a series. 1st had naptha-soaked felt pads. followed by 2nd also with naptha-soaked pads. followed by 3rd, clean dry pads. usually, 2 complete track runs for the series, requiring hours. now, I have switched to LiFePo battery powered locos. batteries are in freight cars behind the steam tenders. wires to the loco are hidden as much as possible. controlled by blue tooth. unusual perhaps, but the need to clean tracks is reduced to 1x yearly.
Thank you for the recommendation! I have used a wooden block all the time. I was a bit scared that i have done wrong :). One thing must be said about cleaning the Märklin tracks and that is the importance of cleaning the stud-contacts. Here I use wood but sometimes i need to use a metal piece, like a File (and then the part that has no teeth) instead.
Well, you're quite optimistic ! Some of us are living in quite dirtier environments ; the 2nd story with a room on the street and car circulations means that a lot of dust is dropping all the time. And the worst is that if you let your loco run on that dust, it will get inside the gears and engines. Soon, the budget for air conditionner and filtration becomes higher than for train modelling :-( What I ended up doing to clean all the dust, was to use some Super Clean Gel, when I removed and boxed the tracks; that seems to work well (even on delicate turnouts), and apparently doesn't leave any deleterious chemicals. But of course, it would be difficult to use it on a layout with parts of more difficult access. We'd need a little robot to apply little balls of gel all around the layout.
I use an electronic cleaner for electronic car parts which is plastic friendly, and evaporates quickly. I apply it to a small piece of paper towel, and voila…works wonders. In use it on switches, you name it…and I have no problem of any kind. Also, you may want to keep the wheels of your locos and cars clean as well. But track cleaning is one of those “necessary evils” we model railroaders have to endure. All the best, and great video.
I only use dry old tea towels (after they had a round in the laundry dryer) and elbow grease. It ruins the tea towels (especially the "puko's" ruin them) but it makes the tracks nice and clean.
Thankyou Martin for your comprehensive and sensible advice. The use of oil based cleaners even if they are conductive is flawed as you say should not leave behind residue.Especially if you run Marklin & other european makes that have traction tyres. I use Isopropyl initially and have stopped using abrasives(here and there use 1200 grit or finer rarely) as they scratch or leave micro pitting.My garage is a problem as workshop and trains are together,I really need a separate area. I have the Roco and Fleischmann cleaning cars,the Lux ones are far too expensive. I shall try the wood block,many thanks.
On my layout I use the Dapol Motorised Cleaning Wagon, it has a polish pad, vacuum and foam with cleaning fluid tank. It too is noisy, but handy for those area's which are hard to reach. Nothing will beat manual cleaning, which is a shame, but I enjoyed your video.
My Bachmann HO set is on the carpet in my office. The E-Z Tracks have built-in plastic roadbed, keeping the tracks above the carpet. I use DeoxIT D5 on a paper towel to clean the tracks. I use 9V batteries to power the switches and the Railroad Crossing lights. Micro switches under the tracks control the blinking lights. I admire elaborate train sets online and I am happy with my simple system!
I use the rough side of Masonite. Also: we have to clean wheels on trains, too. Dirt seems to migrate from rails to wheels, and the total area of wheel treads versus your track surface area is surprisingly large and often overlooked.
Very good tutorial! All of your methods I used succesfully on my layout but definitly I always needed also to use a cleaningliquid on a piece of cloth made of cotton with some cleaning spirit! This disolves de black slippery sludge very well! I also spent hours cleaning the wheels of the locomotives and cars and replacing from time to time the rubber adhasive bandas that go around the drive wheels of the engine!!
Walters sells an American style car that looks just like that Roco car with the rubber pad… We replaced the pad with a same size and shape piece of Masonite with the rough side down… does the same thing as the wood block!
I second this, I picked it up from a member of a club I used to be in. He made his own by attaching 4 bolts to the corners of the smooth side with epoxy, then drilling 4 holes in the underside of a boxcar to match, capping each bolt with a nut. A good size weight in the middle of the masonite held it to the track.
Thanks! Everything is very true! The wood works and the wood can be selected according to its hardness. WD-40 is very common. WD-40 is everywhere. The WD-40 came from the world of cars, but these cars are no longer produced! WD-40 is needed for cars produced 40 years ago. The main problem with WD-40 is catastrophic rubber damage! Rubber swells, rubber expands. Do not keep the bottle with WD-40 either in the garage or in the depot !!!
Hey fran Tennessee. This was the BEST and most entertaining UA-cam on track cleaning that I have ever enjoyed. You covered all the issues clearly! My layout is a 3-rail O gauge, and I too have experimented with track cleaning. The car from North East Trains has worked the best in hard-to-reach areas, but I agree with doing it (ugh) manually for the best results. Electrical contact issues are solved with a VERY SMALL amount of spray INOX, but this does leave an oily residue that attracts dirt. Tack. Med vänliga hälsningar. Ron
I watched a very informative UA-cam video from 'Ron's Trains N Things', the video was named 'Stop Cleaning Your Track on Your Model Railroad'. Ron explained why the best cleaner for tracks is simply to use Mineral Spirits, the same thing you use when you clean up a painting job when using oil-based paints. And other than dust falling onto the rails, the second source of the dirt is micro-sparks (micro-arcing) under the locomotive wheels as they pick up current to run the motor. You fix this by coating the track with a very thin layer of electrically conductive grease (apply a thin layer with your fingers, and then rub the tracks once with a paper towel to remove the excess grease). Yes, you grease your tracks, and doing this prevents arcing permanently. You have to re-apply this layer of grease each time you clean the tracks with mineral spirits.
Hi! Thank you for your comment. As said, I cannot recommend grease or oil on the tracks. Run your trains more often and you will not have to bother about either mineral spirits or oil. If the humidity in air sometimes goes above 60% you need a de-humidifier in your train room. What track system are you using?
The Belmont Shore Railroad Club is located in San Pedro, California. It is located in a marine environment and given the size of the layout, (25 m x 8 m) dehumidifiers can’t keep up with the humidity. Even if we ran trains weekly, we’ve had to clean the track. As an experiment, we’ve tried the NoOx-ID on our display layout downstairs following the instructions on Ron’s video and 5 months later, we have not needed to clean that track. I don’t recommend using alcohol as most contain a percentage of water. Mineral spirits are a better alternative. Anyway, I’ve enjoyed watching your videos, they are always uplifting and cheerful, keep up the good work!
The brush on the bottom of the "vacuum" train carriage, just custom fit it to the back of another small train in your layout and run it through the full cycle once a week.
It's so easy to "build" your own track cleaning car. Just get the type of nails one puts under a chair to avoid scratching the floor, the felt tipp ones. Take a box car and drill a small hole in the bottom. Insert the nail, somewhat loosely and do not glue. Add washers to increase weight. Add a drop of track cleaning fluid as desired. Replace every 1000 model railroad miles, and you're set for life.
New member here. Thank you for your videos. Thoroughly enjoy watching them. I am currently using a track cleaning product from Woodland Scenics. It does a decent job but as you indicated, best method is to just run your trains.
So I got all my model train stuff from my grandpa, and I was looking at one of the engines, its like a 1970-1980s retro single car tram from a city, and on the bottom it has two pads, and when you run the loco, the pads spin, cleaning the track. I dont know how well it works or how to properly use it, but I thought it was pretty cool. Its made by some German company.
I usually use the train running method or a piece of wood, its really the most effective in my opinion. I also have a track cleaning car with some sort of filt, like a microfiber cloth, but its really only good for loose dirt. I´ve never used any sort of cleaning alcohol. When i accidentally get some sort of glue or paint on the tracks, i do use ultra fine sand paper. I´ve never had problems with corrosion or increased dirt build-up (I use Piko A-Gleis). However on my grandfathers layout, I do get rust all over the tracks as they were made from some sort of iron-based metal and are 40-50 years old.
It so true, running is the best way to keep you layout track clean. I run almost ever day and spend very little time having to clean track. Also using DCC will be a big help because of the track signal/power voltage being constant higher level. Some UA-camr will have given the explanation behind this for the Physics minded modelers out there, I'm sure.
Excellent information on the importance of cleaning,, didn’t know just running trains is a good thing,,now I will run very often,,thanks for sharing.,.😊
Great info! Your lux track cleaner set up reminds me of the Loran or Speno rail grinders. Also very noisy. So, when you're running it just let it be railgrinding.
As an artist, I have pure graphite sticks to hand. I am experimenting at this time by gently applying pure graphite to half the layout and see how it helps, and because it covers the track I hope will prevent other dirt from getting a grip. Looks good so far unless there is a long terms issue with the graphite that I am not aware of, cheers Paul at Sandling Junction
This works brilliantly for me. I use artists graphite sticks on my O gauge layout. I don't know whether it would cause any problem on a layout with gradients. I haven't done any track cleaning for several months.
I agree running trains regularly reduces the need to clean track, and not using abrasives is best avoided, however not all tracks on the layout are going to have trains operating frequently and will end up with a dust layer. I live in Australia, close to the coast, and have a fairly warm humid environment in my train room (5 to 40+ degrees C temperature range). I am still building my layout and have high dust levels, yet I have reliable low speed operations with minimal cleaning of track and no cleaning of wheels.This is helped by DCC and storage capacitors. I have been using Inox MX3 for about 40 years with excellent results. It appears it has a similar effect to other oils like transmission oil. It appears to make the dust and dirt conductive. You should only apply a very small mount to minimize loss of traction. I have sensible grades and curves on my layout, 1 in 70 on my mainline and 1 in 40 on my branch line. I am able to run my NSW prototype length steam era trains on these grades. In conclusion, I apply the Inox in small amounts infrequently, and use wood, cork or rubber to remove excessive spots of dirt or glue on the rails after new construction.
Excellent content Martin ! For the MÄRKLIN cente rail contacts (BUT DEFINITELY NEVER FOR THE RUNNING TRACKS) l've occasionally used a product called BITRON,. It's an older lubricant, that was popular around the turn of the century, simply a thin oil with a positive charge (sort of magnetic), it also has conductive qualities. Coaches with center pick-ups often suffer some resistance, increasing strain on locomotives. The product helps to reduce friction (resistance) caused by the pick-up skis, it improves electrical conductivity and protects against corrosion. Just a few drops on the locomotive contact ski goes a long way and provides surprising results. It makes coaches with pick-ups run so much more freely, almost like center pick-up is absent. Similar conductive lubrication products are likely available from other manufacturers. It's definitely worth trying!
Boy just talking about it will probably generate all kinds of feedback! Myself I have a O scale layout of over 230 feet of track above my machine shop. I do have a old school track cleaning car that has rotating foam pads, etc that does help to keep the black nastiest off the wheels of the cars. But like you say, sometimes I still have to go over it by hand. Lately I've been using a automotive paint final prep solvent with decent results. Like yours channel, always good content.
Great ideas! Thank you. I love your videos, and the Halloween is the best one (I saw it more than 10 times). I am making something simillar now and I found, that Marklin has the Halloween train. I have the wagons, but the locomotive is only for Marklin tracks and I have Roco... Thank you for your videos!
Great video. You covered a broad range of products. I have found Lighter Fluid to be effective in that it doesn’t leave a residue. It is also useful in removing other solvents and oil.
Hi Martin. I have been using Inox MX3 for over a year with very good results but I'm using it on a conventional HO track, not Marklin's system. As I understand the Marklin system, half of the electrical pick up is carried out by studs in the middle of the track. If you were to only apply Inox to the rail of Marklin track and not the studs, then you would lose a great deal of the benefit of using Inox. The layout I use has grades on it, and while Inox will reduce the tr active effort up grades I'm still able to haul a 7 car passenger train up grades where before I might have been able to haul 8 carriages, so it is not a, "complete disaster". I've also found that locos that were having problems with pick up on newly cleaned track pre-Inox, were greatly improved when running on the same track after being treated with Inox. I don't know if Marklin uses traction tires on locomotives but if they do, Inox would also reduce the efficiency of the tires too. I don't know if it destroys traction tires or not. That may depend on what the particular traction tires are made of. One observation I would make is that Inox will stain paint and weathering. If you are just applying Inox to the top of the rails that is not a problem if you take care. However, I think trying to apply Inox to the center studs in the sleepers of Marklin track would be very difficult and would likely result in staining the sleepers and road bed. When I applied Inox to my track the first time, I only applied it to small sections and then let the trains spread it around the rest of the track. This took several circuits to spread it around but it did do the job. A little Inox is good, a lot of Inox is probably bad. One of the advantages of Inox is that, up to a point, dust settling on the track doesn't cause any problems with electrical pick up. Recently, after a Covid lock down, the track wasn't used for about three months. When I first tried to operate a train after the lock down there was a problem with electrical pick up trying to run a single loco around the layout. After observing what was happening, I double headed a train around the layout once and after that there were no further problems, nor have there been any since. The passage of one train around the layout was enough to restore pick up. From what I know of Marklin, which is not much, it sounds like Inox is not going to work well on Marklin track, due to the difficulty of applying it to the studs in the sleepers, and the staining problem. If Marklin also use traction tires that is another reason not to use it on a Marklin layout. However, for those of us using "normal" track, my experience has been very positive. I wouldn't use anything else now. I think your harsh assessment of Inox is unfortunate and misleading for people who are not using Marklin. I can see why Inox or the CRC equivalent are highly likely to be incompatible with the Marklin system, but I presume your channel is not aimed exclusively at Marklin modelers to the exclusion of every one else, so perhaps you should be more measured in your criticism next time and explain why Inox didn't work for you. Cheers
Hi! Thank you for commenting and the extensive research you made on this topic! I have tested Inox on Marklin K-tracks, Marklin M-tracks, Roco flex tracks and Peco code 88 and 100 tracks. The positive effect you are describing was found during test on the Peco tracks. For all other tracks Inox was a nightmare. I could therefore not recommend it to my audience. It’s better to follow the general advice to operate the layout more often and whenever needed clean tracks with chemically pure gasoline. Again.. A big thank you for your comment! Best regards / Marklinofsweden
The solution of the wooden block is perfect, but I have added a cut from an old leather belt on one of its sides, as if I were sharpening the edge of a knife and it is fabulous.
Thank you, Martin, for this video on track cleaning. A while ago I was seduced by the promise of INOX MX3 and have given it a try. My layout is level and the room it's in is not very dusty, so I have seen no negative effects so far. However, I will be watching for any track build-up. Fortunately, I run my layout at least once a week, so this may help, as you pointed out at the beginning of the video. After track painting and ballasting I used small pieces of scrap polystyrene plastic to clean the rail head and this worked quite well. But for routine maintenance I will select a small block of wood, as you suggest. Before I retired I worked as an industrial statistician, and one of my duties was to design experiments to assess the effect of different factors on measured results in R&D and production environments. Given all the conficting information on track cleaning I've seen on UA-cam, it strikes me that a statistically designed experiment (or series of experiments) would help to clear the air of misinformation. But I doubt if anyone would provide the funds for such an effort as there are many factors involved (as you have pointed out). Cheers from Wisconsin!
I would agree that INOX MX3 is a waste of money. It reduced my older Hornby single drive bogie diesels to slipping to a standstill on the slightest of gradients. It took ages to clean it off.
Gregg over at fish plate films tackles the track cleaning issue..I’ve followed his method for over a year now and haven’t cleaned my track by hand for over a year now
Right . I use smoke fluid . Dampen the cloth with Seuthe or ESU smoke fluid , wipe the tracks , then wipe with a dry cloth and it is ready to go . As for wood , I use balsa .
I have had my DC layout for almost 40 years now (hard to believe). But, it has been very under used. For the last half year I have had all of the track cleaned. I have basically 3 loops. One has not been used because I was finally going to finish scenery. One loop, has tiny use. Main loop has now had major use while I tested my trains ( procrastinate). My cleaning observations are opposite to yours. In the half year... The unused track remains virtually spotless. The lille used track has some "dirt". But my main loop gets very dirty with heavy train use (using only 3 new engines and 8 new cars). The car wheels remain clean. The engine wheels need only slight cleaning. All of this is to lead to my observation that train use makes the track "dirty". I believe it must be due to the micro arcing. I did try no ox Id as recommend by Ron's trains and things. It worked really well. But I had to cut that experiment short as I have 4 percent grades and even micro traces left for slippage. I'm in a basement so there is def. dust. If your friend used a cotton bud, are you sure the sample was not contaminated? But indeed, I defer to your incredible experience and knowledge. I just don't get why so many can arrive at opposite conclusions on something so central to model railroads.. How to keep the track clean. :) Your videos are awesome 😎
I started using a Graphite Block to rub the track after using a track rubber, the Graphite block seems to leave a fine deposit of Electrically conductive graphite in the micro and not so micro scratches and prevents in so doing a lot of micro arching, and of course this is also a lubricant. When it comes to a wooden block, perhaps be wary of pine which can leave a sticky resinous deposit! A good choice would be Ash Wood.
I am guilty of using "abrasive" cleaning methods myself, but I think the idea that they cause scratches and will hold even more of the black gunk to be a real thing. There are 2 items I have used with really good success that you might look at trying, I use pieces of cork road bed, it picks up the black gunk and does not scratch the track. Second is Deoxit. This is an electrical cleaner used to clean pots and switches on vintage stereo equipment.
I use a tiny amount of Deoxit-D100 on the pickup show and afterwards the electrical contact is perfect. I tried on the rails but I had traction problems for awhile, I think I put too much. Anyway I don’t use it on the rails anymore.
Well done Martin. Not much I can disagree with you about! We have used wooden blocks for years to "polish" the rails. And, I absolutely swear by the vacuum cleaner cars. Every one of my trains has a dedicated "wooden block waggon" attached to keep the sticks and bricks at bay! My regime is to push a "wooden block waggon" in front of a loco with the vacuum cleaner behind the loco, followed by another "wooden block waggon". I do this 5 or 6 times around my layout. It works. Another thing is, we do not have any plastic wheelsets. They are the best muck picker uppers available. Finally, if a modeller has locos with rubber traction tyres, then oils will destroy them (the traction tyres that is), guaranteed! Those folks need to be ultra fussy about oil on the rails.
I have read about the use of graphite (from pencils) and it would seem to me to agree with the basics explained in the video. Specifically that a good cleaning needs to avoid leaving any residue. If I understood it correctly (which is a huge assumption to start with), the idea is that graphite fills the microscopic surface holes and scratches and help prevent dirt from adhering there, while at the same time being conductive. Nice video, I always learn something even if the Märklin system is not my thing. Thanks!
Graphite in pencils is mixed with clay or other substances and so it is not generally a good conductor. Pure graphite is very very soft and would leave residue that may also hold other dirt as it settles. I would not recommend this approach..
A woodblock hung under a car is excellent for periodical cleanings. For cleaning after a long time, I use ordinary packing styrofoam peanuts. I just pierce a couple of them with a needle and attach them to the bottom of the car with rubber bands stretched over the top of the car.
Thank you so much it might help me hopefully! I need to clean my small train room and then test different methods and see what works the best!! My train room is a mess so no wonder there is constantly black residue on the tracks lol!!! I am modeling a little part of the swiss RhB network called the albula line and haven't been able to buy or make a HOm track cleaning wagon. I have been trying to buy the LUX cleaning wagon but haven't been able to obtain one. I have grades naturally so maybe vaccum and goo gone or other...
I've used cleaning cars, and something that looks like a white pencil eraser glued to a stick called a "bright boy". The bright boy is a fine abrasive. I've even used airbrush thinner, to clean the wheels of engines and cars, but if you're not careful, the airbrush thinner can lift paint and lettering off your cars, if it finds its way up there onto the sides.
Ferrous corrosion happens above 60% rH, and mainly where hygroscopic dust has settled on the surface. This is a museum rule of thumb.
Very true. Although these days it's no longer common, using lighting that generates UV (fluorescent, vapor discharge, etc.) on a dry environment, generates also ozone, which is an active oxidant.
@@JoseSilveira-newhandleforYT And UV can also degrade certain types of plastic aswell as certain types of dye/pigment. So any source of UV is bad.
Yes, I woke up the other day pondering the exigencies of hygroscopic dust.
Thank you for a comprehensive and sensible presentation. The sad part is that no matter what you have said there are going to be many people who disagree with you. I like what you have said and the polite way that you have said it.
People who like to put crap on their tracks deserve the shit they later have to deal with. They bring it on themselves.
@@marioxerxescastelancastro8019 You are talking absolute rubbish. Normal day to day dust creates enough of a problem.
Haha! Love that you are so frank and clear "Do not never ever use Aceton" and "... this is between bad and catastrophic!"
Hi Martin, I’m totally agree with you because in my 40 years experience, I finally do exactly all you described. In addition, instead a wood piece, I use a small piece of cork , it is better than wood.
And in my case, I use the catenary to supply power to the locomotive ( I only have electric locomotives), and to clean the pantos I use a chemical product, because it’s very important to keep a good electrical connectivity to all the moving parts of the pantograph. Since I use it, the electrical problems disappear. But as you mentioned, never for cleaning the trucks.
Best regards from Spain
I use a high volatility, non polar product with a lint free cloth on areas that get less traffic, and maintain the locomotives with the necessary lubricants to prevent internal wear and wheel contamination. So, I agree that the best approach is to run the trains.
Who knew a simple wooden block and regular running of the trains would do the trick in keeping the rails clean.
Thanks for sharing. 👍👍👍
My only question is why type(s) of wood he used.
@@hartleymartin probably not pine. Most likely a hardwood such as oak, ash or hickory.
@@hartleymartin The best is a thinner pice of hardboard ! Or corc
The matching diesel with the track cleaning car set puts a smile on my face.
Nothing more to say other than after 70 years in model railways building and using you are 100% right in your advice .
Good advice. I would add, cleaning all wheels (not only the power wheels, but all wheels on all cars, as these will grab dirt from the tracks and then put it back after you clean the tracks) and, what is mostly overlooked, cleaning the contacts carrying current from the wheels, inside the engines.
I recently purchased some 20 year old peco N gauge track and points for a very good price. They had been sitting in a damp garage for most of that time so oxidisation was heavy and the points were very sluggish.
The first thing I did was to soak it all in a tub of rust removal solution for about 2 hours. This removed the oxidisation but left the good metal and plastics untouched.
Then I washed and dried it all thoroughly. I then sprayed the point mechanisms with generous amounts of electrical contact cleaner whilst operating them until they made that nice satisfying click sound.
I then set to work carefully with used 800 grade followed by slightly wetted 1200 grade paper until the track surfaces achieved a mirror finish.
The last step was to polish the rails with a slightly damp cloth using only tiny amounts of metal polish before cleaning everything up with generous amounts of electrical contact cleaner spray prior to buffing it all up with a clean dry cotton cloth. Every thing is as good as new now and thanks to your advice I now know how to keep it that way.
In the meantime I'm off to find a wooden block.
For over 10 years I looked after a model railway at a museum in Auckland, New Zealand. For most of it, I used a cork sanding block from the local hardware store. No chemicals and no residue. Always did a good job
Very useful informative talk. I learned from a colleague at college to use lollipop sticks which can be bought in bundles of a hundred for cleaning and polishing metal. They are good because they are clean and will not leave scratches. A block of wood is easier to hold if the track is laid.
I like that you made your Roco cleaning wagon weathered like a real track cleaning wagon.
I have found that like you said it takes a lot of passes to clean with a track cleaning car. Thank you so much for suggesting the wood block!!! I’ve been so scared of using stuff that will scratch the finish on the rails causing them to get funky faster but now I can just go and clean!
One way to avoid the fibres of clothes creating track dirt would be to only operate the layout naked. Top tip.
😄👍
Thank you for these tips and information. I read a long time back: NEVER run PLASTIC WHEELS! The plastic is a dirt magnet and then SPREADS the dirt all over your layout. If you have any rolling stock you particularly like with plastic wheels, its super easy to replace the plastic wheels with metal wheel sets. Thx again!
A few nights a week I go to the layout and run the trains around a few laps and like you said - dirty track is never an issue. This also brings up the issue of why continuous run layouts have a huge advantage here and why all modellers should consider this when planning a layout.
I use a small piece of tempered Masonite (hardboard) to which two nails have been glued and inserted into two holes in the bottom of a boxcar. A small weight is put on top of the nails to keep pressure on the hardboard. Bevel the front and back edges of the hardboard so it doesn't get caught on turnouts, and paint the top and sides flat black, along with the nails. I run these as a normal part of my trains, and the hardboard acts as very mild abrasive to keep the track clean. A search of the internet will reveal plenty of instructions on how to make these.
A lot of great tips! I typically use a wooden block or a piece of cork. When things get really bad I use a fender washer to polish out the scratches on the rails.
I really enjoy watching your stuff! I'm one of those crazy modelers that can dream up all kinds of stuff! I use a locomotive that uses the motor to vibrate a nearly microscopic pad between the wheels of the trucks that has 1200 grit sandpaper which polishes the rails. I have to change the polishing paper from time to time though. No big deal!!!!
I use a nickel occasionally to fix rough spots works great. I will give the wooden block a try.
Thank you for this presentation. When the rails are scratched, i rub them in with a soft pencil, the graphite conducts very good and flattens the scratches. Regards Arjen
I used the rubber block too, for me it was too abbrasive and messy. Now I use plastic safe electronic contact cleaner (no oil or waterdiluted alcohols, but made to ensure clean electrical conductivity) and a regular microfiber towel. Works like a charm and isn't abbrasive at all, no traction lost either...
I love your videos. Great presentation on top of stunningly nice models.
Hey, I was scouring videos on cleaning tracks and I had to tell you the 3 tips that I learned from multiple people on here:
1.) use lint free eyeglass cleaning fabric clothes, instead of regular cotton. You won’t leave fabric particles behind.
2.) don’t use rubbing alcohol. Use mineral spirits. The reason is when exposed to electrical current, apparently the alcohol behaves differently than the mineral spirits, and it has something to do with polarity. The other one you can use is WD40 CONTACT CLEANER (not the normal stuff). Again certain cleaners somehow leave a residue that creates more arching and putting in the track causing more oxidation, which is why the tracks get black.
3.) you want to buy a special grease that’s been used by some railroad guys since the late 60s. It’s called NO-OX-ID A-SPECIAL HD Anti Corrosion Electrical Contact Grease and you put it on and wipe it off, and apparently all you have to do from there forward is to just wipe it down from time to time. People are talking about it like it’s a miracle and they don’t have to clean their track for YEARS. Sounds too good to be true, but once you realize why the track corrodes, this will make sense.
Again, I can’t remember what video discussed this grease, but it had links at the bottom to someone who, similar to you, tested a bunch of things, and found that mineral spirits and this grease were the right polarity, to negate the staticky dirt, and was better than using alcohol, etc. to the point he changed everything he was doing and now is an evangelist for this stuff.
Ron’s Trains And Things produced the video regarding NO-OX-ID A.
I found the No ox unbelievably expensive ie $80 inc post in Australia for what is likely a fad. and it is apparently not recommended for traction wheels and steam locos.
Hi thanks for a genuine explanation. I am an Aussie and the current almost hysteria about Inox is so ill founded, It relies upon Lanolin (from sheeps wool) and is the best product ever for tools and gardening . farming and fishing equipment.Even electrical contact cleaners ruin running charactoristics of the locos, especially steam types -Mine just sun their wheels until I cleaned the track with IPA. On that many rabbet on about Isopropyl Alcohol being bad However they spoeak of 70% and even 99% product which contain water and other additives, 100% is the only version to use and cleans perfectly
Thank you for a very complete and helpful video! One of the very issues for any model railroader is the track cleaning. Your advices are so helpful. The wooden block is the tip of the year !!
Best video ever on track cleaning! Glad you cleared the air about abravises. They should be banned. My cleaning routine is using a vacuum cleaner to gather the dust and then a CMX cleaning car filled with Goo-Gone(limolene) around the layout. Works well for me and i have grades.
Because of a silly choice I made when I was a teenager and started my layout, it runs Marklin AC stock on Pola (el cheapo Fleischmann) rails. It does this because the third rail on my layout is actual catenary. So my layout is basically unbothered by what little dirt builds up. Both rails are neutral and the catenary carries the AC phase. As the catenary doesn't collect dust on the underside and all my locs have been re-wired so that all the wheels are used for the neutral. For me when a train stops unexpectedly it's usually because the thin wire on top of the pantograph has worn out or broken.
I have to admit, I'm a Christmas train person. Our layout has a Lionel O gauge going around the tree. The Z gauge train is way back on a mountain .... that's why is looks so small. Z gauge is notorious for poor contact because of the light weight. I tried many different things and nothing really worked. I finally stumbled upon the Gaugemaster HF-2 that uses high frequency and voltage to literally blow away particles. When I 1st put the Z train engine only, on the track, it hesitates every few inches. The HF-2 takes care of it, and after a few minutes is runs better and better. I'm a happy camper!
Growing up in Europe model trains that used AC were always something mystical for a DC kid, reserved solely for serious German modellers. You have an impressive set up. As for the video, this is quality content: great editing, good lighting, and a fabulous voice to go along with it.
I've. been modeling HO scale model railroad for 20 years and I'm having trouble keeping the track clean. thank, you for you're helpful video.
Thanks for a video on this so common problem. I think you covered it all except for one little product manufactured and sold by Noch and Woodland scenics. They call it dust monkeys and it simply is a small foam covered pad you mount on one of the wheel axels of a freightcar. Run this in all of your trains and that problem is much smaller. I have used them for years and they do work. No chemicals. They are made in both N and Ho scale. Great information anyway !
Lots of answers to many questions.
I use 3 items; isopropanol just after the paintjob on my rails, a Dapol cleaning wagon that I use for vacuum cleaning and as last ... a wine bottle cork for dry cleaning.
That cork is very effective, has the correct dimension for HO, is not too hard and is very comfortable to use.
Only problem ... I have to drink wine on a (not too) regular base ... but that's fun too.
Isopropanol even 99% pure promotes oxidation I have stopped using it and the difference is remarkable see my comments above
Hi Martin. I have now hired Pinocchio to service by tracks. He’s a pretty good worker, but that pesky Cricket keeps whispering in his ear. Thanks for your take on an always touchy subject. See ya next time.
hard to look like your having fun when this topic goes up, but you did it pretty good.
what I use is just a couple Bachman cleaning cars, like you said It prevents build up. try to run them on a train every time I am operating on the layout. I also have the cmx tank car and a vacuum car, that I use once in awhile.
most times, just alcohol on a cloth, clean and wipe dry
Excellent video. Thanks for sharing. For what it's worth, Ron's Train N Things did a UA-cam video, "Stop Cleaning Your Track on Your Model Railroad," where he recommends: (1) wiping the track with odorless mineral spirits, and (2) applying a thin coat of NO-OX-ID A Special Formula Electrical Contact Grease (Part No. 10203) to help prevent oxidation. It supposedly keeps metals free from rust and oxidation. Amazon has it for $8.70 in the US. Your mileage may vary.
Hi Timothy, Yes, I think most people who have a good experience using oil based liquids cleaning tracks are really seeing the positive effects it has from preventing corrosion. My philosofy is to remove the root cause, meaning the humidity. If you have more than 60% rh you need a de-humidifier in the layout room. With lower %rh there will be no need for greese or oil.
Thank you Martin for your advice, it is like that, many over-lubricate and this dirtyes the tracks, it is the main problem, I use liquid lubricating waxes for the axles of the wagons, when this solidifies the bearing remains dry and does not absorb the dust To clean the tracks I use isopropyl alcohol, this does not leave the surface with oils and removes all the dirt, I use it at least three times. All the cleaning cars do their job well but they are only for maintenance, first a deep cleaning must be done, nothing better than manual cleaning with a cloth and a little isopropyl! Very important, the wheels of the wagons must be metal, the plastic ones release particles that dirty the rails, greetings!
Simple track cleaning and it works!!!
I have been running my trains for 6 years and has never cleaned my tracks.
My story : After laying track I clean once with a track cleaning pad, only once. Thereafter I use ATF Automatic transmission fluid (The red one) as follows. Using ear bud dipped in ATF I apply about 300mm to each track at the highest point on my layout. My circles are 114m long, so apply less for smaller layouts. Only at one point, don’t overdue it.
The loco and wagon wheels will spread the ATF onto all the tracks over a period of time. You will have no mug built-up on wheels at all. There might be a little bit of loco slippage for a short while after applying ATF but it disappears quickly. Do not wipe any oily substance off the tracks at all. I reapply the moment any loco misses a beat anywhere on the layout, usually once every 2 to 3 months. Small bonus, after 6 years my track already looks a little weathered. Train friends, I was very sceptical about this method but believe me IT WORKS.
I used the MIDAS ATF Automatic transmission fluid (The red fluid one)
Watch my layout in progress on You Tube
ua-cam.com/video/7B_GW2gJ0L0/v-deo.html
Thank you for this. I use the end of a wooden chop stick to clean my track, it helps to reach all the difficult areas I can't fit my hands into. I also have used WD40, won't be doing that again!
The WD40 became fashionable in a moment, I don't know who came up with it, it made a mess on the tracks, everything was filled with oil, the wheels of the wagons were left with a hard coating, it took me a long time to remove that crap , the best is isopropyl alcohol, it cleans perfect and evaporates in seconds .....
This is wonderful news. At my next running session, I will tell my wife that I am cleaning the track for the next hour. (LOL) Great show and thank you for your advice.
Hi Martin thank you for a very good video a lot of people make mistakes When they clean the tracks
I have been cleaning with a wooden block for a couple of years now and it works
excellent points. prior, I would use 3 locos in a series. 1st had naptha-soaked felt pads. followed by 2nd also with naptha-soaked pads. followed by 3rd, clean dry pads. usually, 2 complete track runs for the series, requiring hours. now, I have switched to LiFePo battery powered locos. batteries are in freight cars behind the steam tenders. wires to the loco are hidden as much as possible. controlled by blue tooth. unusual perhaps, but the need to clean tracks is reduced to 1x yearly.
Thank you for the recommendation! I have used a wooden block all the time. I was a bit scared that i have done wrong :). One thing must be said about cleaning the Märklin tracks and that is the importance of cleaning the stud-contacts. Here I use wood but sometimes i need to use a metal piece, like a File (and then the part that has no teeth) instead.
I've never seen model railways filmed like this, incredible - almost like you're living in that miniature world!
Well, you're quite optimistic ! Some of us are living in quite dirtier environments ; the 2nd story with a room on the street and car circulations means that a lot of dust is dropping all the time. And the worst is that if you let your loco run on that dust, it will get inside the gears and engines. Soon, the budget for air conditionner and filtration becomes higher than for train modelling :-(
What I ended up doing to clean all the dust, was to use some Super Clean Gel, when I removed and boxed the tracks; that seems to work well (even on delicate turnouts), and apparently doesn't leave any deleterious chemicals. But of course, it would be difficult to use it on a layout with parts of more difficult access. We'd need a little robot to apply little balls of gel all around the layout.
Hello 👋, it's been a long time since I have been here, I've had a quadruple bypass and 3 strokes and an amputated toe . Good to see you again 🙌 😊 ☺
I use an electronic cleaner for electronic car parts which is plastic friendly, and evaporates quickly. I apply it to a small piece of paper towel, and voila…works wonders. In use it on switches, you name it…and I have no problem of any kind. Also, you may want to keep the wheels of your locos and cars clean as well. But track cleaning is one of those “necessary evils” we model railroaders have to endure. All the best, and great video.
Thanks for all the tips Martin. The tip of the wood is new for me, i'll defenitively give it a try ! 😀
I only use dry old tea towels (after they had a round in the laundry dryer) and elbow grease. It ruins the tea towels (especially the "puko's" ruin them) but it makes the tracks nice and clean.
Thankyou Martin for your comprehensive and sensible advice. The use of oil based cleaners even if they are conductive is flawed as you say should not leave behind residue.Especially if you run Marklin & other european makes that have traction tyres. I use Isopropyl initially and have stopped using abrasives(here and there use 1200 grit or finer rarely) as they scratch or leave micro pitting.My garage is a problem as workshop and trains are together,I really need a separate area. I have the Roco and Fleischmann cleaning cars,the Lux ones are far too expensive. I shall try the wood block,many thanks.
On my layout I use the Dapol Motorised Cleaning Wagon, it has a polish pad, vacuum and foam with cleaning fluid tank. It too is noisy, but handy for those area's which are hard to reach. Nothing will beat manual cleaning, which is a shame, but I enjoyed your video.
My Bachmann HO set is on the carpet in my office. The E-Z Tracks have built-in plastic roadbed, keeping the tracks above the carpet. I use DeoxIT D5 on a paper towel to clean the tracks. I use 9V batteries to power the switches and the Railroad Crossing lights. Micro switches under the tracks control the blinking lights. I admire elaborate train sets online and I am happy with my simple system!
I use the rough side of Masonite. Also: we have to clean wheels on trains, too. Dirt seems to migrate from rails to wheels, and the total area of wheel treads versus your track surface area is surprisingly large and often overlooked.
Rock on. You talked about everything keep up the good work looking forward to the next video. 👍😎
Very good tutorial! All of your methods I used succesfully on my layout but definitly I always needed also to use a cleaningliquid on a piece of cloth made of cotton with some cleaning spirit! This disolves de black slippery sludge very well! I also spent hours cleaning the wheels of the locomotives and cars and replacing from time to time the rubber adhasive bandas that go around the drive wheels of the engine!!
Walters sells an American style car that looks just like that Roco car with the rubber pad…
We replaced the pad with a same size and shape piece of Masonite with the rough side down… does the same thing as the wood block!
I second this, I picked it up from a member of a club I used to be in. He made his own by attaching 4 bolts to the corners of the smooth side with epoxy, then drilling 4 holes in the underside of a boxcar to match, capping each bolt with a nut. A good size weight in the middle of the masonite held it to the track.
Thanks! Everything is very true! The wood works and the wood can be selected according to its hardness. WD-40 is very common. WD-40 is everywhere. The WD-40 came from the world of cars, but these cars are no longer produced! WD-40 is needed for cars produced 40 years ago. The main problem with WD-40 is catastrophic rubber damage! Rubber swells, rubber expands. Do not keep the bottle with WD-40 either in the garage or in the depot !!!
Hey fran Tennessee. This was the BEST and most entertaining UA-cam on track cleaning that I have ever enjoyed. You covered all the issues clearly! My layout is a 3-rail O gauge, and I too have experimented with track cleaning. The car from North East Trains has worked the best in hard-to-reach areas, but I agree with doing it (ugh) manually for the best results. Electrical contact issues are solved with a VERY SMALL amount of spray INOX, but this does leave an oily residue that attracts dirt. Tack. Med vänliga hälsningar. Ron
I watched a very informative UA-cam video from 'Ron's Trains N Things', the video was named 'Stop Cleaning Your Track on Your Model Railroad'. Ron explained why the best cleaner for tracks is simply to use Mineral Spirits, the same thing you use when you clean up a painting job when using oil-based paints. And other than dust falling onto the rails, the second source of the dirt is micro-sparks (micro-arcing) under the locomotive wheels as they pick up current to run the motor. You fix this by coating the track with a very thin layer of electrically conductive grease (apply a thin layer with your fingers, and then rub the tracks once with a paper towel to remove the excess grease). Yes, you grease your tracks, and doing this prevents arcing permanently. You have to re-apply this layer of grease each time you clean the tracks with mineral spirits.
Hi! Thank you for your comment. As said, I cannot recommend grease or oil on the tracks. Run your trains more often and you will not have to bother about either mineral spirits or oil. If the humidity in air sometimes goes above 60% you need a de-humidifier in your train room. What track system are you using?
The Belmont Shore Railroad Club is located in San Pedro, California. It is located in a marine environment and given the size of the layout, (25 m x 8 m) dehumidifiers can’t keep up with the humidity. Even if we ran trains weekly, we’ve had to clean the track. As an experiment, we’ve tried the NoOx-ID on our display layout downstairs following the instructions on Ron’s video and 5 months later, we have not needed to clean that track.
I don’t recommend using alcohol as most contain a percentage of water. Mineral spirits are a better alternative.
Anyway, I’ve enjoyed watching your videos, they are always uplifting and cheerful, keep up the good work!
The brush on the bottom of the "vacuum" train carriage, just custom fit it to the back of another small train in your layout and run it through the full cycle once a week.
It's so easy to "build" your own track cleaning car. Just get the type of nails one puts under a chair to avoid scratching the floor, the felt tipp ones. Take a box car and drill a small hole in the bottom. Insert the nail, somewhat loosely and do not glue. Add washers to increase weight. Add a drop of track cleaning fluid as desired. Replace every 1000 model railroad miles, and you're set for life.
New member here. Thank you for your videos. Thoroughly enjoy watching them. I am currently using a track cleaning product from Woodland Scenics. It does a decent job but as you indicated, best method is to just run your trains.
Great video, thank you very much for much needed infos. Good luck with your layout
Thanks for the Idea with the wood block, I'll definitively try it out, beside my märklin cleaning waggon!
So I got all my model train stuff from my grandpa, and I was looking at one of the engines, its like a 1970-1980s retro single car tram from a city, and on the bottom it has two pads, and when you run the loco, the pads spin, cleaning the track. I dont know how well it works or how to properly use it, but I thought it was pretty cool. Its made by some German company.
Thank you so much for your great tutorials. Best regards from Brazil!
I usually use the train running method or a piece of wood, its really the most effective in my opinion. I also have a track cleaning car with some sort of filt, like a microfiber cloth, but its really only good for loose dirt. I´ve never used any sort of cleaning alcohol.
When i accidentally get some sort of glue or paint on the tracks, i do use ultra fine sand paper. I´ve never had problems with corrosion or increased dirt build-up (I use Piko A-Gleis). However on my grandfathers layout, I do get rust all over the tracks as they were made from some sort of iron-based metal and are 40-50 years old.
It so true, running is the best way to keep you layout track clean. I run almost ever day and spend very little time having to clean track. Also using DCC will be a big help because of the track signal/power voltage being constant higher level. Some UA-camr will have given the explanation behind this for the Physics minded modelers out there, I'm sure.
Excellent information on the importance of cleaning,, didn’t know just running trains is a good thing,,now I will run very often,,thanks for sharing.,.😊
Great info!
Your lux track cleaner set up reminds me of the Loran or Speno rail grinders. Also very noisy.
So, when you're running it just let it be railgrinding.
As an artist, I have pure graphite sticks to hand. I am experimenting at this time by gently applying pure graphite to half the layout and see how it helps, and because it covers the track I hope will prevent other dirt from getting a grip. Looks good so far unless there is a long terms issue with the graphite that I am not aware of, cheers Paul at Sandling Junction
This works brilliantly for me. I use artists graphite sticks on my O gauge layout. I don't know whether it would cause any problem on a layout with gradients. I haven't done any track cleaning for several months.
The only problem I could see may be a building up of graphite dust on the locomotive wheels.
@@Jimmy_CV I'll keep an eye on. only doing 50% see how it goes
@@Jimmy_CV that hasn't been a problem for me. It is conductive and it doesn't seem to stick to the wheels.
You are correct that oil on the track is an issue, the answer is to use PTFE lubricants that are not wet on the axle points
I agree running trains regularly reduces the need to clean track, and not using abrasives is best avoided, however not all tracks on the layout are going to have trains operating frequently and will end up with a dust layer. I live in Australia, close to the coast, and have a fairly warm humid environment in my train room (5 to 40+ degrees C temperature range). I am still building my layout and have high dust levels, yet I have reliable low speed operations with minimal cleaning of track and no cleaning of wheels.This is helped by DCC and storage capacitors. I have been using Inox MX3 for about 40 years with excellent results. It appears it has a similar effect to other oils like transmission oil. It appears to make the dust and dirt conductive. You should only apply a very small mount to minimize loss of traction. I have sensible grades and curves on my layout, 1 in 70 on my mainline and 1 in 40 on my branch line. I am able to run my NSW prototype length steam era trains on these grades. In conclusion, I apply the Inox in small amounts infrequently, and use wood, cork or rubber to remove excessive spots of dirt or glue on the rails after new construction.
Excellent content Martin !
For the MÄRKLIN cente rail contacts (BUT DEFINITELY NEVER FOR THE RUNNING TRACKS) l've occasionally used a product called BITRON,.
It's an older lubricant, that was popular around the turn of the century, simply a thin oil with a positive charge (sort of magnetic), it also has conductive qualities.
Coaches with center pick-ups often suffer some resistance, increasing strain on locomotives.
The product helps to reduce friction (resistance) caused by the pick-up skis, it improves electrical conductivity and protects against corrosion.
Just a few drops on the locomotive contact ski goes a long way and provides surprising results.
It makes coaches with pick-ups run so much more freely, almost like center pick-up is absent.
Similar conductive lubrication products are likely available from other manufacturers.
It's definitely worth trying!
Boy just talking about it will probably generate all kinds of feedback! Myself I have a O scale layout of over 230 feet of track above my machine shop. I do have a old school track cleaning car that has rotating foam pads, etc that does help to keep the black nastiest off the wheels of the cars. But like you say, sometimes I still have to go over it by hand. Lately I've been using a automotive paint final prep solvent with decent results. Like yours channel, always good content.
Everything you said makes sense!
A wood block is genious!
I ask: any particular kind of wood? A soft one like birch tree or pine or a harder?
Thanks for the information. I will try the wooden block method as I was not aware of this. Please keep up the great videos my friend!
Great ideas! Thank you. I love your videos, and the Halloween is the best one (I saw it more than 10 times). I am making something simillar now and I found, that Marklin has the Halloween train. I have the wagons, but the locomotive is only for Marklin tracks and I have Roco...
Thank you for your videos!
Great video. You covered a broad range of products.
I have found Lighter Fluid to be effective in that it doesn’t leave a residue. It is also useful in removing other solvents and oil.
Hi Martin. I have been using Inox MX3 for over a year with very good results but I'm using it on a conventional HO track, not Marklin's system. As I understand the Marklin system, half of the electrical pick up is carried out by studs in the middle of the track. If you were to only apply Inox to the rail of Marklin track and not the studs, then you would lose a great deal of the benefit of using Inox.
The layout I use has grades on it, and while Inox will reduce the tr active effort up grades I'm still able to haul a 7 car passenger train up grades where before I might have been able to haul 8 carriages, so it is not a, "complete disaster". I've also found that locos that were having problems with pick up on newly cleaned track pre-Inox, were greatly improved when running on the same track after being treated with Inox.
I don't know if Marklin uses traction tires on locomotives but if they do, Inox would also reduce the efficiency of the tires too. I don't know if it destroys traction tires or not. That may depend on what the particular traction tires are made of.
One observation I would make is that Inox will stain paint and weathering. If you are just applying Inox to the top of the rails that is not a problem if you take care. However, I think trying to apply Inox to the center studs in the sleepers of Marklin track would be very difficult and would likely result in staining the sleepers and road bed.
When I applied Inox to my track the first time, I only applied it to small sections and then let the trains spread it around the rest of the track. This took several circuits to spread it around but it did do the job. A little Inox is good, a lot of Inox is probably bad.
One of the advantages of Inox is that, up to a point, dust settling on the track doesn't cause any problems with electrical pick up. Recently, after a Covid lock down, the track wasn't used for about three months. When I first tried to operate a train after the lock down there was a problem with electrical pick up trying to run a single loco around the layout. After observing what was happening, I double headed a train around the layout once and after that there were no further problems, nor have there been any since. The passage of one train around the layout was enough to restore pick up.
From what I know of Marklin, which is not much, it sounds like Inox is not going to work well on Marklin track, due to the difficulty of applying it to the studs in the sleepers, and the staining problem. If Marklin also use traction tires that is another reason not to use it on a Marklin layout. However, for those of us using "normal" track, my experience has been very positive. I wouldn't use anything else now.
I think your harsh assessment of Inox is unfortunate and misleading for people who are not using Marklin. I can see why Inox or the CRC equivalent are highly likely to be incompatible with the Marklin system, but I presume your channel is not aimed exclusively at Marklin modelers to the exclusion of every one else, so perhaps you should be more measured in your criticism next time and explain why Inox didn't work for you.
Cheers
Hi!
Thank you for commenting and the extensive research you made on this topic!
I have tested Inox on Marklin K-tracks, Marklin M-tracks, Roco flex tracks and Peco code 88 and 100 tracks. The positive effect you are describing was found during test on the Peco tracks. For all other tracks Inox was a nightmare. I could therefore not recommend it to my audience. It’s better to follow the general advice to operate the layout more often and whenever needed clean tracks with chemically pure gasoline.
Again.. A big thank you for your comment!
Best regards / Marklinofsweden
The solution of the wooden block is perfect, but I have added a cut from an old leather belt on one of its sides, as if I were sharpening the edge of a knife and it is fabulous.
Excellent presentation. I'm now changing they way & clean track.
Wonderful review and advice for a three-rail O Gauger from Tennessee.
Thank you, Martin, for this video on track cleaning. A while ago I was seduced by the promise of INOX MX3 and have given it a try. My layout is level and the room it's in is not very dusty, so I have seen no negative effects so far. However, I will be watching for any track build-up. Fortunately, I run my layout at least once a week, so this may help, as you pointed out at the beginning of the video. After track painting and ballasting I used small pieces of scrap polystyrene plastic to clean the rail head and this worked quite well. But for routine maintenance I will select a small block of wood, as you suggest. Before I retired I worked as an industrial statistician, and one of my duties was to design experiments to assess the effect of different factors on measured results in R&D and production environments. Given all the conficting information on track cleaning I've seen on UA-cam, it strikes me that a statistically designed experiment (or series of experiments) would help to clear the air of misinformation. But I doubt if anyone would provide the funds for such an effort as there are many factors involved (as you have pointed out). Cheers from Wisconsin!
I would agree that INOX MX3 is a waste of money. It reduced my older Hornby single drive bogie diesels to slipping to a standstill on the slightest of gradients. It took ages to clean it off.
Gregg over at fish plate films tackles the track cleaning issue..I’ve followed his method for over a year now and haven’t cleaned my track by hand for over a year now
Right . I use smoke fluid .
Dampen the cloth with Seuthe or ESU smoke fluid , wipe the tracks , then wipe with a dry cloth and it is ready to go . As for wood , I use balsa .
Smoke fluid is usually expensive kerosene
I have had my DC layout for almost 40 years now (hard to believe). But, it has been very under used. For the last half year I have had all of the track cleaned. I have basically 3 loops. One has not been used because I was finally going to finish scenery. One loop, has tiny use. Main loop has now had major use while I tested my trains ( procrastinate).
My cleaning observations are opposite to yours. In the half year... The unused track remains virtually spotless. The lille used track has some "dirt". But my main loop gets very dirty with heavy train use (using only 3 new engines and 8 new cars). The car wheels remain clean. The engine wheels need only slight cleaning.
All of this is to lead to my observation that train use makes the track "dirty".
I believe it must be due to the micro arcing. I did try no ox Id as recommend by Ron's trains and things. It worked really well. But I had to cut that experiment short as I have 4 percent grades and even micro traces left for slippage.
I'm in a basement so there is def. dust.
If your friend used a cotton bud, are you sure the sample was not contaminated?
But indeed, I defer to your incredible experience and knowledge. I just don't get why so many can arrive at opposite conclusions on something so central to model railroads.. How to keep the track clean. :)
Your videos are awesome 😎
A non-polar solvent like petroleum ether/lighter fluid (kemiskt ren bensin in Sweden) is the best choice for track cleaning.
Kerosene is the highest non-polar but be careful with it around plastic
SO glad I found your channel.
I started using a Graphite Block to rub the track after using a track rubber, the Graphite block seems to leave a fine deposit of
Electrically conductive graphite in the micro and not so micro scratches and prevents in so doing a lot of micro arching, and
of course this is also a lubricant. When it comes to a wooden block, perhaps be wary of pine which can leave a sticky resinous
deposit! A good choice would be Ash Wood.
I am guilty of using "abrasive" cleaning methods myself, but I think the idea that they cause scratches and will hold even more of the black gunk to be a real thing. There are 2 items I have used with really good success that you might look at trying, I use pieces of cork road bed, it picks up the black gunk and does not scratch the track. Second is Deoxit. This is an electrical cleaner used to clean pots and switches on vintage stereo equipment.
I use a tiny amount of Deoxit-D100 on the pickup show and afterwards the electrical contact is perfect.
I tried on the rails but I had traction problems for awhile, I think I put too much. Anyway I don’t use it on the rails anymore.
Glass of water and a pink pencil eraser is all I ever used on my setup. Seemed to work fine for the 5 years I had it.
12 points from me for your fantastic and so positively presented videos🤙
Well done Martin. Not much I can disagree with you about! We have used wooden blocks for years to "polish" the rails. And, I absolutely swear by the vacuum cleaner cars. Every one of my trains has a dedicated "wooden block waggon" attached to keep the sticks and bricks at bay! My regime is to push a "wooden block waggon" in front of a loco with the vacuum cleaner behind the loco, followed by another "wooden block waggon". I do this 5 or 6 times around my layout. It works.
Another thing is, we do not have any plastic wheelsets. They are the best muck picker uppers available.
Finally, if a modeller has locos with rubber traction tyres, then oils will destroy them (the traction tyres that is), guaranteed! Those folks need to be ultra fussy about oil on the rails.
I have read about the use of graphite (from pencils) and it would seem to me to agree with the basics explained in the video. Specifically that a good cleaning needs to avoid leaving any residue.
If I understood it correctly (which is a huge assumption to start with), the idea is that graphite fills the microscopic surface holes and scratches and help prevent dirt from adhering there, while at the same time being conductive.
Nice video, I always learn something even if the Märklin system is not my thing.
Thanks!
Graphite in pencils is mixed with clay or other substances and so it is not generally a good conductor. Pure graphite is very very soft and would leave residue that may also hold other dirt as it settles. I would not recommend this approach..
I use a cork block and kerosene as the track cleaning liquid and seems to work great as it doesn't attract dust.
A woodblock hung under a car is excellent for periodical cleanings. For cleaning after a long time, I use ordinary packing styrofoam peanuts. I just pierce a couple of them with a needle and attach them to the bottom of the car with rubber bands stretched over the top of the car.
I was waiting for a new video. And here it is.
So I am a new patron from now.
Thank you so much it might help me hopefully! I need to clean my small train room and then test different methods and see what works the best!! My train room is a mess so no wonder there is constantly black residue on the tracks lol!!! I am modeling a little part of the swiss RhB network called the albula line and haven't been able to buy or make a HOm track cleaning wagon. I have been trying to buy the LUX cleaning wagon but haven't been able to obtain one. I have grades naturally so maybe vaccum and goo gone or other...
I've used cleaning cars, and something that looks like a white pencil eraser glued to a stick called a "bright boy". The bright boy is a fine abrasive. I've even used airbrush thinner, to clean the wheels of engines and cars, but if you're not careful, the airbrush thinner can lift paint and lettering off your cars, if it finds its way up there onto the sides.
Very interesting ideas for track cleaning
I clean the wheels of every car and the locomotives to keep them from throwing their dirt onto the track. I also use rubbing alcohol and Track Magic.
Enjoyed your video I liked the tip on the dehumidifier.