Which Drywall Joint Compound Sticks Best? Hint: one FAILED
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- Опубліковано 13 жов 2024
- I tested multiple Joint Compounds, (Hot Mud, All Purpose, Plus 3, Mesh Tape, Paper Tape, Fibafuse etc). Find out which drywall mud sticks the best and Which One FAILED. Open the description below for more. UPDATE: I found out from the USG rep that the powdered All Purpose I used can expire, EVEN THOUGH, it doesn't say that anywhere on the bag that I can find. It's only good for a few months, and this was older, so that explains the All Purpose.
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UPDATE: I found out from the USG rep that the powdered All Purpose I used can expire, EVEN THOUGH, it doesn't say that anywhere on the bag that I can find. It's only good for a few months, and this was older, so that explains the All Purpose.
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The fact that you are handing down your generational knowledge while pushing forward scientifically...you are a treasure!
After many years of using all-purpose (green lid) I switched to mid-weight (purple lid). It was just easier to sand and work with and gave similar results as green lid. A few years ago I switched to Plus 3. I have had better luck for ease of use and reliability with Plus 3 for everything, and without glue. Good adhesion, low shrinkage and easy sanding. I may try adding glue for a repair in high moisture area sometime but so far… Plus 3 for the win.
I'm a novice about to do some ceiling repair. I think I'll just tape and skim with Plus 3. I'm in no hurry, so wish me luck. Thanks for that input
This was an exceptional video - testing what everyone always says, testing the proper way, etc. Only way to truly know what is best. Thanks for doing this.
Thank you for your support.
The only powdered mud I will use is hot mud,but I was as surprised as you with the fact that the plus-3 out performed the general purpose bucket mud. Thanks for sharing your research,I like learning new things in my mid fifties.
Woah. I never would've thought the Plus 3 sticks so well as compared to the All Purpose. Well done!
Same here
I've been using Plus 3 light for paper taping for well over a decade now. To me it's much easier to move compared with all purpose. I've never had any complaints or call backs where it has failed either. Note, mostly remodel/handyman repairs. New rock and painted.
As a painter, I'll remember, plus 3 with super bond for skim repairs. Thank you for the video.
Hey Kilted Guy! Five star reveiws are coming in on my drywall repair website. Your video on feathering the edges of my joints by applying pressure on the outside corner of my blade makes all the difference in the world. Very little sanding,sometimes none. You helped me raise my skill level from average to above average. Cant thank you enough.
Awesome!
Imagine billing a client and not knowing the basics about your trade?
Congrats none the less for trying to learn more this channel won’t steer you wrong.
Good honest video, unedited, showed your surprise upon unexpected results.
I've probably said this before but if I'm taping onto a painted surface I put a coat of primer on it before I tape. I believe mud will stick to paint, but over time a layer of dust/dirt forms on the paint and that keeps the new mud from bonding. Sanding cuts through this, but the newly primed surface gives maximum adhesion. This is particularly important if the existing surface is textured so priming is an absolute must for skimming a textured wall/ceiling to make it smooth. If I'm just doing a patch I'll run a fan on the primer to speed drying time.
I learned this the hard way after taping the joints on a mobile home with vinyl coated drywall. The tape stuck fine but the feathered edges kept flaking off leaving a faint line that I could see on every joint I did. A paint rep told me that priming first would solve the problem so I primed all the joints and then recoated them and they turned out perfect. Since then I've never had any trouble getting my work to blend into an existing painted surface. If I'm skimming over a textured wall I spray and back roll it before applying any mud. Again, the results have spoken for themselves and I've never (so far) had a call back. Of course having said that I'll get one tomorrow...
Great info. Any particular kind of primer?
@@indigatorveritatis7343 I use a pva primer because that's what I've got on hand, but I'm pretty sure any latex primer (because oil over latex doesn't work and latex over oil does) will get the job done.
@@michaelkistner6286Thank you, friend.
Thank you for the intel. This video is one for the library, as drywall is back in my near future 🙃
Now you have to think back at allllll the jobs you've used all-purpose to tape joints 🤣
I've always preferred using 90 minute on joints and then the first coat, then plus 3 on the second/3rd and all purpose as a finish since the all purpose is nice and thin and spreads really good.
Now I feel confident on sticking to bucket mud unless I need some quick drying hot mud for something such as filling larger gaps before taping, or holes, repairs.
Thanks for the video! I wonder how the durabond would hold up? I use that for corner beads.
Good demonstration. I have to use the premixed. I cant use powders
I have some small patch work to do, this video will help me a lot.
Thank You
Great Job !!!! very informative. Do you add glue when using Plus 3 Taping on a regular job? Or did you just use it for this demonstration? Thx for your Time, Effort, Expertise, and Service very grateful.
I only did it for this demonstration and in the field only for surfaces that are glossy or I question adhesion of the mud to.
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I like how scientific you are about drywall, I learn something new every time.
Thanks, I appreciate that 😎, Guy
Another great video and really interesting results. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks so much commenting. Guy
The allpurpose dry powder separates in the bag. The adhesive is mostly at the bottom.... Try mixing a whole (small) bag?
I’ve only used about 2 bags of it so maybe that’s it. Thanks
That's what I was thinking. Same with bagged concrete. Always mix the whole bag.
I been trying to tell all you old timers that I respect you and listen to every word you have to say period always have always will but PLUS-3 is awesome stuff!!! We use it start to finish sometimes even do 2nd&3rd cost with ultra lightweight which I love but they are good products and so much easier to carry and haul and mix and carry around in pan or hawk and 100 times easier to sand and just all the way around better and I’m telling you just as if not stronger than all purpose as far as adhesion and lifetime longevity I only use plus-3 & ultra light weight and always will (besides small one day repairs and pre filling gaps & such I use hot mud)
I’ve used plus 3 many times with no glue and the tape held better than green lid all purpose or purple lid mid weight. Midweight is no good in my opinion for taping. I’m a fan of paperfaced corner beads I’ve fixed so many steel beads I don’t really use them very often
Filled bunches corner bead today. Man that hot mud does the job!
Yes it does
Thank you very much for this good learning lesson, this is super important to know.
Thanks, glad I could help you out 😎. And thanks for subscribing!
Thanks for this, all the old heads and newbies trained by them talk trash on plus 3, nice to see it put to the test
I like your videos, I would have liked to see Durabond. Also another factor that would be interesting is which primers result in best adhesion.
This is good stuff to know, great video. Good job
Im going to start taping with plus3 after watching this.
Had one bubble on the whole house and nothing came loose anywhere that i saw. Very happy with how it turned out, other than it takes forever to dry
So how do you mix the glue to the Plus 3 or All Purpose? A little squirt of watered down glue maybe ?
Yes
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Interesting test. I was hoping you included samples of USG Ultra Light Weight... I've been taping with that (after prefilling with hot mud) and finishing with USG All Purpose--both out of the bucket, not dry. I now will have to try the ULW and AP myself and see how it goes! I like the harder AP surface... it does sand a bit harder but it also seems to leave a better surface after sanding.
Thanks for all your content! What’s plus 3? What product is that? I use that powder form from Lowe’s, 45-90min dry time for repairs and new walls and mesh tape. I’m just use to it but hopefully it’s good product. I used that already mixed all purpose to do flat texture coating.
Sounds like "hot mud", which always seems to do well
It’s USG Sheetrock Plus 3. Lowers and Home Depot carry it here along with the drywall supplies
I guess fast dry muds don’t allow the glue to thin and lift with the evaporation of water. All purpose dries slower possibly allowing the glue to thin and lift with the extra setting time. Fast dry then holds tighter but harder sanding and more experience needed to handle. So handle it well to avoid that sanding… it’s all about doing as little sanding as possible. I like the 2 large ziplock bags with fast dry powder and all purpose powder with 2knives and 2 trays. For small ( 1 sq meter drywall replacement ) fast wall repairs and tomorrow we paint.
Plus 3 is a product like all purpose - blue bucket. Lightweight and I guess more adhesion. What you are using is "hot mix" - also apparently works good on paper adhesion. I read that when using fiberglass tape, you should only use hot mix.
This was a eye opening experience. I always waa told all purpose mixed had most glue no I am more confused. Your videos are interesting to watch but educational..I have house with popcorn and it was built in 1978 not sure what I should use now.
Id test it yourself. It might be different in your area. Me, I’m going to use Plus 3 for everything now
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY are those home depot kits for asbestos accurate. This house was built in 1978 so I will not scrape off popcorn unless tested
Well you have to send the sample off to a lab so they should be accurate
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY ok. Some places in Phoenix are over $600 for testing
The Home Depot version should be about $50
Great presentation. Thank you
Hi! Love your videos! I do have a question. I have some furniture that I want to refinish. The shelf in the cabinet is particle board with a coating that is not in great condition. I was thinking about doing a skim coat over that shelf to hide the particle board and to make it smooth. Am I crazy to think this might work? If not, which mud would work best? Thanks!!
Over bare particleboard, it could cause swelling and it’s not a good idea. I would just put a good coat of primer and paint on it.
really great video and eye opening!
I have a bunch of butt joints to finish in my basement. I need that Buttmaster 1000 video ASAP 🤣
Lol
Doing a small patch, 15” long by 9” sat thr widest part. Old 1963 florida home. Concrete block house. Leak in celing about 7 years ago and soften what ever is ip there on the celing.( not popcorn celing). I scraped off the area and all thst came off was 1/4 inch of plaster or whatever was there. There was a ling crack about 1/8” wide so i caulked it, and a week later painted A good coat of Valspar bonding primer. Its been 2 months and i want to spread the Plus 3 on there and also use a good waterproof bonding glue.,Do I spread the glue on the celing THEN spread the plus 3 over that?…or do I mix the glue into the plus 3?.. and how much glue do i use per 1 cup of plus 3? Help ! Really appreciate any help or comments! I need to get this done today if possible.. Thanl you!💕
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Great comparison. Just for clarification, is the "Plus 3" in this video from powder mix or bucket? Since you added glue, I assume it was the mix?
Bucket premix
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY Perfect. Just bought a bucket.
So, is it okay to use Easy Sand 90 Hot Mud as a taping mud with paper or fibafuse? Anyone can answer that knows
How much glue you put for a bucket of the plus 3
Thanks a lot
It usually doesn’t need it but if you add any and about 1 good squirt per bucket
What kind of glue did you use and about what ratio to water did you mix it with?
Doesn’t have to be exact, just squirt in what you think will work like 2 tablespoons
bagged all purpose? in my years I have never seen plus 3 hold stronger than all purpose, but i have never used bagged stuff...
You dont have taping mud in your area? Here in western Canada, yellow box is taping, blue is all pirpose, red and green and grey are finishing muds
We do but the regular weight all purpose always worked great for everything 35 years ago when i did new construction so we rarely used taping mud. I might have to test it
Would I get comparable results if using regular wood glue??
Probably
15:04 I’ll give you my opinion in a second… nope. 😉 Cool video, thanks.
What about just using wood glue? I was suggested to directly glue the papertape on some cracks I have and then put finishing compound on it. Are there any disadvantages to his?
I’ve never tried it and probably wouldn’t.
Frickin AWSOME!
linteresting video. Guy do you have something against all purpose ultra light? l use it all the time . On bigger jobs l use all three passes with it including bed coat. 40% lighter. very easy to sand.Just sayin.
I’ve tried it but don’t like the way it feels
Nice job
What’s your preferred tape?
Paper & fibafuse
Good to know thanks
You're welcome
We always gotta finish what dry wallers start.🤪
Lol
Very disappointing tape adhesive we're dealing with! Well, whoever said life would be easy right.
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Awesome
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