What glue? Which type of mud? How much to add? When? All these questions are answered in this video! Want to help support the channel? Visit the Patreon: www.patreon.co...
Agreed. I love it when these folks who think they know something he doesn’t step in it only to get rewarded for their efforts. Ben is only trying to help them out with tips/tricks of the trade. Instead of appreciating his effort there’s always someone who can’t resist the temptation to “try” and knock it. 🤦♂️
Most people don’t know squat they only know what they’ve done, you know as well as I do you don’t use anything on new construction except what the manufacture says so. I’ve gotten myself out of a few headaches doing everything bye the book. Failing butt joints back in the late 90 now most companies require the butt joints V out, butt buddies takes care of that nightmare.
Just FYI, I called Weldbond and asked them about mixing their product with drywall mud and they stated that the proper mix ratio is 1 part Weldbond to 3 parts water. I skimmed an entire room with 45 minute quick set mud and it stuck like you wouldn't believe. I was worried because the walls were gloss painted orange-peel texture. But the stuff stuck great using that mix ratio.
A video that is validation of my belief about glue in 45 set mud.This is something I started doing 5 years ago. This has saved me thousands of dollars. Most of my work is repair work. Plus I mud over painted surfaces. Thanks for putting out a video that will help many people. Learning about the importance of strength and adhesion. Significantly increasing the performance of plastering products. Paper tape seems to work very well with glue mud.Mud sticking well to screw heads and metal trims is paramount.
I think it all boils down to cost and scale. Drywall is just such a cheap material in the grand scheme of things. If you could buy a regular bucket of mud for $11, or the BEST, guaranteed not to fail mud for $22, would you? I would. But a commercial high rise contractor wouldn’t. That bottle of titebond quite literally costs as much as the entire bucket of mud. And thus we have arrived at the fool-proof guaranteed not to crack small job salvation mud.
For painted surfaces I will use primer over an area larger than the patch then do my first coat of mud when the primer becomes mostly dry/tacky. When it all dries together the bond is complete.
You just answered a major question I had after watching A LOT of your videos. I thought the glue thing was genius, but until now I didn't realize you only occasionally added it to quick set.
Love your videos bro. Just started with a carpentry company. With interest but no background. And I’ve found drywall is awesome. Been a few weeks on a big ish livingroom and slowly but surely I get better and faster. Watching these
Thanks for this refresher. And hearing the percentages of glue to use overall in the mix water - 10% typically but up to 25% on occasion - that was very helpful to me.
Excellent video. Enjoy your videos. Video really helps the DIY drywall repair crew trying to improve on their drywall craft. Canadians 🇨🇦 are a friendly bunch. Cheers
Maybe a topic to cover? I am drywalling my cottage right now and I am stumped as to the best way to mud odd angles and transitions. I have walls that transition to open angled vaulted ceilings and also have sloped ceilings that transition to a flat ceiling higher up. I am struggling to get a clean finished straight line where the two planes meet and to actually get enough mud build-up at that location to allow sanding. I used Sure Corner tape at these locations. thanks for considering this.
You are a good example of someone who thinks out side the box. Quick set is a great example, I’ve always used glue in place of the expensive plaster bonders. I know it works, no fail, restored Wyatt Earp’s childhood home before his family moved west, complete restoration completed part of the top floor 12 years ago, no flaws. Light years ahead of another crews restoration in similar walls and buildings built in the 1850. They used a lot of horse hair back in the day. Probably used the hooves for glue😂 back in the day. Pella Ia.
Amazing work Your videos are always so helpful while also being fun to watch and also can help a lot when I am trying to figure out how to do something. Keep up the amazing work Ben.
If you lived in interior BC when sometimes there are extreme (wet) snow loads, you would use glue to repair failed joints that only failed because of a rare 1 meter of wet snow on the roof. I wasted a lot of time and trouble assuming taping mud has enough glue in it. The tape doesn't necessarily lose bond to the wall, but rather tears apart. It's much harder to tear drywall tape when saturated with wood glue. I have never had to repair a failed joint with added glue. Even when the cracks happened under normal snow loads, yet the glue held up during the 1 in 20 years when we get massive wet snow loads.
I don't typically read your comments but I had to this time lol! Your videos are very informative and have helped on projects. Thanks for the quality videos.
Excellent flavor choice on the kombucha bread… and thank for using such a simple, accurate, and universal measuring container… still the drywalliest carpenter on the internet! ❤️ 😂
Love your style! Of all the videos I’ve watched , you seem the most skilled, I’m hoping you can help me out. I want to create a faux stone wall over rough hewn wood paneling. Firstly, I’m worried about adhesion. Should I be? It is a very rough texture. Do I need to use a primer or mesh? Secondly, , I’d like some stones to stick out up to an inch. I’ve read hot mud is the way to do this as it doesn’t shrink. Or would applying several coats of lightweight drywall mud be better? Any tips here? Does weldbond also make the joint compound more durable and less prone to wear and tear? Nothing makes a faux stone wall look more faux than chips and chunks missing out of it, haha. And finally, I'd like the finish of stone- can I add something, maybe limestone powder, to give it a porous, stone like finish? Thank you for your time and your channel!
How does this compare to say PVA ing the area to be mudded with a 3:1 mix of PVA water and applying mud when tacky? We do this with Plaster over here in the UK to promote and ensure adhesion and stop the water from getting sucked out of the Material and having it set to quick. Thanks for all the videos helped me out no end ☺️
I'm going to be repairing and texturing mobile home drywall that has vinyl coated drywall in it and have heard horror stories of texture peeling off. i figured there would be a product to make it stick better . NEVER would have thought of that kind of glue, thanks
I mix quick set with gluey water for adhesion, but I find that it cures a bit softer when I do that. I’ll use gluey water when thinning all purpose for taping to really get the tape to adhere.
Excellent information, great video, great content, great instructions! This was so informative and will help so many people out. 👍 A true Master Drywaller! Let's make that a thing; they have Master Plumbers right. Lol
USG has a product called plaster bonder which is made of polyvinyl acetate (PVA). I live in a home with plaster and lathe and I applied it with a spray bottle to the old plaster when I am doing a repair and it works great. I have wondered if this could be sprayed or wiped onto a wall if you wanted to do a large patch or skim coat with quick set.
Using glue in hot mud is something I do anytime I’m installing tape, bead and pre-fill on painted/old work/repairs. Including vinyl products like expansion joints and edging trims etc. For new work I just use taping mud for all taping, bead and edging. I typically hit the screws when taping as well though when I spot screws using taping mud I keep the spotting as small as I can to make it easier to finish and sand. Nothing worse than having two different mud types exposed when sanding. The softer mud will always hollow out. Keep it small and tight when using taping mud on screws. 👍 One ol’ hawk and trowel mudder to another 😂
In my country the standard procedure when installing drywall is to glue the boards to the timber or metal frame before screwing them on 😂 I was looking at buying STRAIT-FLEX SUPERBOND 🤔. Your videos are awesome, much appreciated.
Someone asked you about using Durabond in some past video and I remember your reply was that if wasn't easy to find in your area. Come on, get a bag, try it, it is very good, although I doubt you haven't tried it already? The only downside is how it is so hard to sand, but that superior strength and adhesion is a good thing since it's appropriate use is as the base coat in demanding taping, repairs and prefill situations where no sanding is needed. The other (I think worse problem) is how it demands you clean your tools right away and very well. I think adding glue to regular setting compound is an antiquated, more time consuming and inferior to Durabond. Preparing the surface is the most super basic, yet essential step in 1000s of repairs. As you point out, 1:35 "got to sand it ...not enough", so by "not enough"; I don't know if you mean to say that your chemical solution of adding glue removes the need of surface prep sanding or you both sand and add glue? For the type of greasy/waxy surface that even sanding won't solve I use a ammonia/water solution with a green Scotch Brite pad before sanding. It leaves it squeaky clean with a dull finish. Sanding after leaves an excellently prepared surface.
That’s is…..😞 Wanted to see this entire tape job. Also, I just love when I’m having to rip out electrical (or rough in, in some cases) and there’s literally a box full of mud, like seriously; how, and why 🤦🏼; especially on remodels we actually add mud rings to all boxes, lol. Cheers Ben✌🏻
Not long ago I had to use all purpose mud with mesh because I had nothing else on me, and not long after that, I had hairline cracks in the middle.. I know I know, I shouldn't have used all purpose mud with mesh.... With this said , instead of re-taping everything, I just cleared the seems a little bit more without ripping through the mesh, and filled that crack with a mix of all purpose mud and glue, and it worked. I had already tried on a couple other Seems to fill the cracks with all purpose and it recracked but with the glue it didn't.
Im starting to dig the washboard effect I think (is it affect or effect?). I have been trying I have been trying to make the texture go away. I've been here in the house like days 9 number. Thanksyou video great luck good
Hey Ben, thanks for another great video! I'm curious if you have ever used Durabond? I think it's a USG product. I've used it alot for prefilling and patching and had good results as far as I can tell without adding glue. I did learn quickly that you better keep it flat because there is no sanding the stuff! Thanks for any input you have! Hope you're doing well.
Durabond reminds me of plaster it’s so hard to sand. It is made by USG, same as the “easy sand” (total lie) quickset. The later is what I usually buy at my local Menards when I need a quick set mud. Has anyone else tried the Rapid Coat Extra Lite? It had a green lid and is made by Continental. I really like using this as a top coat- very smooth application and dries tough but good to sand.
I think patches and prefills are exactly what Durabond was designed for, especially if you are working on old plaster surfaces, where the hardness of the Durabond matches the preexisting surface. The stuff does seem quite sticky without adding any glue, which makes me wonder if there is an adhesive in it already, despite it being a quick setting powder mix.
Too add water to my pan I use a spray bottle. On mist fan spray. It lets you add small amount of water over the entire pan. Better for mixing. Sometimes when mud is stiffening up and you want it wetter thinner mist water into your pan until you Get desired feel you want. Water bottle more controllable way to add water. ❤❤😂😂
Would the type of white glue you use mixed with water serve as a good sealing agent for old wallpaper too stubborn to get off? I was thinking of doing that then do a mud skim coat before painting, your advice would be very appreciated.
I'm down in Port Orchard. Same area. If I was to add water and convert premix mud to spray texture, would it good to add glue if I'm spray texturing a smooth surface like plastic coated foam board insulation, like PolyPro or R-tech?
I see him mudding the box, and remember working a site where the sparky pissed off a taper. Needless to say the taper pissed off the sparky after he filled the receptacle box with mud 😅
I had problems with CertainTeed brand all purpose light weight compound. The first coat goes on fine. The second coat causes dried chunkies from the first coat to flake off contaminating the seconcd coat mud making a quality finish impossible. I ended up applying a coat of primer paint between coats of mud to bind it together.
@vancouvercarpenter - I am about to skim coat over an entire ceiling that is popcorn texture mixed into the paint. Absolutely impossible to remove (I've tried). It is entirely covered by glossy paint. Should I add a little bit of glue to the normal premixed mud? I am concerned about it flaking off because of how thick it will be due to the popcorn. I am also wondering if I need to get a light compound?
How about if I am repairing a section over cement board? Will wood glue stick to the cement board and the improve the adhesion to the mud? What might you use to join cement board and mud? It's a bathroom ceiling so want to add something to ensure it's all stick together. thanks!
I have painted pop corn cielings. I want to skim coat it, since wetting & scraping is out of the question. Is this ratio good for painted popcorn ceilings?
Do you think Durabond 90 needs glue added? I called USG and they said that paper tape is better/stronger even on plaster repair, so I'm using that instead of mesh to fix small cracks (after carving out my v). My wall is painted plaster and I was using Durabond without adding anything for adhesion to tape and fill in holes (did not feel like spending 40 bucks on Plasterweld). One small section did not stick for some reason. So I'm going to try again and was thinking, after watching this video, to add add glue.
I have been using a pva product called Unibond for decades now, But I almost never put it IN the plaster, if you want to skim a painted wall brush on 50\50 let it dry, then paint on a full bore coat. When It gets a little more sticky, plaster it while still wet. It will stay on the wall. Some of the pva products sold for plasterers are useless,only experience in your own market can tell you about that. PVA in backing plasters can be useful (repairing lath and plaster ceilings) but it does slow down drying times. Don’t put it in skim coats because if you leave a mark you can’t sand it down easily, and the painters will hate you, it will take forever to dry and the painters will hate you, There will be no suction, the paint will slide and the painters will hate you. PS they hate you anyway, they’re painters.
Excellent reminder about a technique you usually just gloss over as part of the mixing process. Does adding glue affect the quickset set up/working time?
I'm a noob was green board a bad choice for a cover over existing bath ceailing with a little black mold & blistering painted ceiling? The fan was replaced with higher cfm but, moisture causes streaks down the walls. I thinks its the exhaust fan discharge is too far away from bathroom fan?
The thing I find interesting is how old school plasterers and drywall folks have similar yet different ways of tackling the same problems. Kirk puts the product--I think it's called weldcrete--on the wall directly before applying his mud. Now, he probably couldn't use your method with plaster, but I think you could use his method with good results. Might be easier on small patches. I'm guessing you like the mixing method better because it's easier on bigger jobs such as taping.
I think the reason you don't mix pva into plaster is that the plaster is very hard and strong by itself, unlike drywall muds which are quite soft and weak, so mixing in the glue is more likely to compromise the strength of a plaster, but that is just my somewhat informed speculation.
He is using plaster / aka stucco products , and I would guess would not sand or wash down anything before application of the bonding agent. Thanks for posting
Not a drywaller here, nor am I a carpenter, and nor am I from Canada. So maybe I'm just thinking incorrectly... but if you use the glue, just the glue, after mixing it 50/50 with water.... will that still even glue stuff together? Something tells me that the glue will probably still stick things together, but if you did a side-by-side comparison of, let's say, drywall tape glued to drywall paper - where one is glued with 50/50 water/glue, and the other is 100% glue, the one with water will not be as effective as the 100% glue. So I have to wonder how effective it'd be when spread even thinner. Dunno. Having said that, I love watching this channel.
Oh man, you should totally use that opening on all your future videos, but really lean into it….the videos would open with you in the middle of something like scraping the wall, and then you act surprised, and say “oh! I didn’t see you there”
I have a serious question. Can I turn the Topping joint compound into a product similar to Lightweight spackle. I use both and I mixed them together etc., for cake decorating. I feel like I can take heavy topping compound and make it better. (I havent tried Topping lite weight). The spackle is too fluffy. The topping is to heavy but both are good for my art finishes.... Could they be better? Or what additives can i use in topping? Ive tried glue and it cracks the finish.
The only fast set I have ever had delaminate or blister off was certainteed 90. Interesting since you say the same thing about the 45. Never had issues with cgc products like synko or proset
yesss, been waiting for this video since your OG glue vids. Can you make one clarifying the porous bubbles? Im confused about the tight skim thing, is that 1 coat and then dry and then skim again? or like do a skim and then do another one right away? always found that vid abit confusing
On final coat when the bubbles start coming I often have to do a tight skim and then immediately recoat to be able to leave a decent coat. This only happens on painted surfaces not on new board.
Hi Van C, fellow canuck. Would this work for exterior skim coat? I'm trying to make smooth old exterior peeling paint on wood trim. After scraping there are divots (from missing paint) and need something to fill the craters. All the dap spackling say 'do not use as skim coat' especially on exterior. So I'm not sure what to use.
I have a question off topic...I made a template that's an 1/8 of an inch on the wall. I was wondering what joint compound should I use that won't shrink and crack.
i'm wondering how people prepare a mud in different ways. My favorite is to add a putty powder by "sifting" until it dissolve in a water and add a little more powder. Then wait for a minute and mix.
I can't get Hamilton fast set here in Saskatchewan unfortunately, only certainteed and synko. I'm curious how it compares to other brands as far as workability, sandability, and shrinkage. Would you say that's your favorite to work with? I'd love to see you do a comparison of different pre mix brands, like for like. For instance certainteed finishing vs sykno finishing. Do you have any preference? Love the vids keep up the good work
The synko pro-set kind of sucks. Poor adhesion and weak. It’s way too light and fluffy for good repair work. Not bad for coating but stick to the certainteed when you need strength.
At what point can you tell there wasn’t good adhesion to a glossy painted or metal surface? Are we talking immediately? Days? Months? Years down the road? Does anyone know if “Sheetrock” brand has this need for additional glue?
If you mean USG easy sand I've had adhesion issues with it over non-porous or excessively porous surfaces. Since then I always add glue to that product.
what about mudding over wallpaper adhesive? I spoke with sherwin williams and they said to use "Blue Mud" from Lowes and that it could be done... is this true?
How about channel bead, I have numerous places where it is chipping off and I can see empty voids through the holes?
I totally forgot about that. Coating anything plastic I add glue to my mud.
Use Durabond as your first coat for such a demanding repair.
Does Durabond have enough glue to stick to a painted (glossy?) surface?
@@michaelbasic6947 I would at the very least sand the surface.
Your responses to the snarky comments is my favorite part of your videos 😂 give the know it all’s a dose of the real world.
There is a channel called Stud Pack and they call out the nanny comments also. ITs pretty funny.
@@travisk5589 I watch them you are so right
Me too. If you can’t say something nice say something snarky… wait that’s not right!
Agreed. I love it when these folks who think they know something he doesn’t step in it only to get rewarded for their efforts. Ben is only trying to help them out with tips/tricks of the trade. Instead of appreciating his effort there’s always someone who can’t resist the temptation to “try” and knock it. 🤦♂️
Most people don’t know squat they only know what they’ve done, you know as well as I do you don’t use anything on new construction except what the manufacture says so. I’ve gotten myself out of a few headaches doing everything bye the book. Failing butt joints back in the late 90 now most companies require the butt joints V out, butt buddies takes care of that nightmare.
Just FYI, I called Weldbond and asked them about mixing their product with drywall mud and they stated that the proper mix ratio is 1 part Weldbond to 3 parts water. I skimmed an entire room with 45 minute quick set mud and it stuck like you wouldn't believe. I was worried because the walls were gloss painted orange-peel texture. But the stuff stuck great using that mix ratio.
Thanks for putting in the work and getting that info :)
@@stevensko9153 thanks. I'm going to use a little gorilla in my topping mud to do some last minute taping I missed
Extra glue doesn’t matter. Isn’t like he measured anyways 😂
Sounds like a lot of glue, especially if that 1 to 3 mix isn't added to the pan water as VC did.
A video that is validation of my belief about glue in 45 set mud.This is something I started doing 5 years ago. This has saved me thousands of dollars. Most of my work is repair work. Plus I mud over painted surfaces. Thanks for putting out a video that will help many people. Learning about the importance of strength and adhesion. Significantly increasing the performance of plastering products. Paper tape seems to work very well with glue mud.Mud sticking well to screw heads and metal trims is paramount.
I think it all boils down to cost and scale. Drywall is just such a cheap material in the grand scheme of things. If you could buy a regular bucket of mud for $11, or the BEST, guaranteed not to fail mud for $22, would you? I would. But a commercial high rise contractor wouldn’t. That bottle of titebond quite literally costs as much as the entire bucket of mud. And thus we have arrived at the fool-proof guaranteed not to crack small job salvation mud.
covered my questions and made me laugh. Perfect ratio of information to laughs.
Love your sneaky laugh that gets cut off at the end…your sense of humour about some comments makes my day!
For painted surfaces I will use primer over an area larger than the patch then do my first coat of mud when the primer becomes mostly dry/tacky. When it all dries together the bond is complete.
I’ve been watching you the last 3 years or so. It’s been a journey as my own career goes on. Thanks man
You just answered a major question I had after watching A LOT of your videos. I thought the glue thing was genius, but until now I didn't realize you only occasionally added it to quick set.
❤ This guy. I’ve been adding glue since he told us too,❤ life is better now 😊😊😊. No tape falling off no problems at all. Life is good. ❤
Love your videos bro. Just started with a carpentry company. With interest but no background. And I’ve found drywall is awesome. Been a few weeks on a big ish livingroom and slowly but surely I get better and faster. Watching these
Thanks for this refresher. And hearing the percentages of glue to use overall in the mix water - 10% typically but up to 25% on occasion - that was very helpful to me.
Thanks for the video. Chill approach.
I love your easy going teaching style, keep the videos coming I love them all.
I have used your glue suggestion successfully on so many issues. I have successfully used thinned white glue on torn paper facing.
Thank you!!
Excellent video. Enjoy your videos. Video really helps the DIY drywall repair crew trying to improve on their drywall craft. Canadians 🇨🇦 are a friendly bunch. Cheers
I remember those old videos on how to drywall. I think I've got a problem. You've created a monster!
Maybe a topic to cover? I am drywalling my cottage right now and I am stumped as to the best way to mud odd angles and transitions. I have walls that transition to open angled vaulted ceilings and also have sloped ceilings that transition to a flat ceiling higher up. I am struggling to get a clean finished straight line where the two planes meet and to actually get enough mud build-up at that location to allow sanding. I used Sure Corner tape at these locations. thanks for considering this.
You are a good example of someone who thinks out side the box. Quick set is a great example, I’ve always used glue in place of the expensive plaster bonders. I know it works, no fail, restored Wyatt Earp’s childhood home before his family moved west, complete restoration completed part of the top floor 12 years ago, no flaws. Light years ahead of another crews restoration in similar walls and buildings built in the 1850. They used a lot of horse hair back in the day. Probably used the hooves for glue😂 back in the day. Pella Ia.
Amazing work Your videos are always so helpful while also being fun to watch and also can help a lot when I am trying to figure out how to do something.
Keep up the amazing work Ben.
I remember your first video with glue as an additive , repair a chimney, thank you
Very helpful, and love your sense of humour !
That brush you recommend is the greatest thing ever
I have been watching your channel for a while now and have learned a lot I tried this recipe but my kids thought it tasted awful
😂
Hi Ben, thank you for the effort of sharing your technique👍
If you lived in interior BC when sometimes there are extreme (wet) snow loads, you would use glue to repair failed joints that only failed because of a rare 1 meter of wet snow on the roof. I wasted a lot of time and trouble assuming taping mud has enough glue in it. The tape doesn't necessarily lose bond to the wall, but rather tears apart. It's much harder to tear drywall tape when saturated with wood glue. I have never had to repair a failed joint with added glue. Even when the cracks happened under normal snow loads, yet the glue held up during the 1 in 20 years when we get massive wet snow loads.
Toilet water, great resource for many things!!
I don't typically read your comments but I had to this time lol! Your videos are very informative and have helped on projects. Thanks for the quality videos.
Thank you!
Thank you for making videos. The information you share, and demonstration of techniques, is invaluable.
This channel's awesome, already picked up some good hints and tricks from it. You earned a sub!
Coolest guy ever, and a straight up legend to the skateboard community.
Thanks for all your videos, I’ve certainly been learning a lot.
Excellent flavor choice on the kombucha bread… and thank for using such a simple, accurate, and universal measuring container… still the drywalliest carpenter on the internet! ❤️ 😂
Love your style! Of all the videos I’ve watched , you seem the most skilled, I’m hoping you can help me out. I want to create a faux stone wall over rough hewn wood paneling. Firstly, I’m worried about adhesion. Should I be? It is a very rough texture. Do I need to use a primer or mesh? Secondly, , I’d like some stones to stick out up to an inch. I’ve read hot mud is the way to do this as it doesn’t shrink. Or would applying several coats of lightweight drywall mud be better? Any tips here? Does weldbond also make the joint compound more durable and less prone to wear and tear? Nothing makes a faux stone wall look more faux than chips and chunks missing out of it, haha. And finally, I'd like the finish of stone- can I add something, maybe limestone powder, to give it a porous, stone like finish? Thank you for your time and your channel!
How does this compare to say PVA ing the area to be mudded with a 3:1 mix of PVA water and applying mud when tacky?
We do this with Plaster over here in the UK to promote and ensure adhesion and stop the water from getting sucked out of the Material and having it set to quick.
Thanks for all the videos helped me out no end ☺️
I love the pure practicallity, this says it is this kind of glue but it is really standard wood glue, I can tell by the lid. 😂
The glue added to make sure paper tape sticks and never de-laminates. Sanding more difficult but excellent results even if too generous with the glue.
I never end up sanding it as I only use it in quickset and only top coat with pre-mix.
Dollar store white glue! Works great when patching in schmoo coated bathroom wall repairs.
I'm going to be repairing and texturing mobile home drywall that has vinyl coated drywall in it and have heard horror stories of texture peeling off. i figured there would be a product to make it stick better . NEVER would have thought of that kind of glue, thanks
I mix quick set with gluey water for adhesion, but I find that it cures a bit softer when I do that. I’ll use gluey water when thinning all purpose for taping to really get the tape to adhere.
the shade at the west coast was quite hilarious
Excellent information, great video, great content, great instructions!
This was so informative and will help so many people out. 👍
A true Master Drywaller!
Let's make that a thing; they have Master Plumbers right. Lol
USG has a product called plaster bonder which is made of polyvinyl acetate (PVA). I live in a home with plaster and lathe and I applied it with a spray bottle to the old plaster when I am doing a repair and it works great. I have wondered if this could be sprayed or wiped onto a wall if you wanted to do a large patch or skim coat with quick set.
Yup PVA is common white glue like kid eat in grade school.
I swear, i watch just to hear Ben talk, lol !
Using glue in hot mud is something I do anytime I’m installing tape, bead and pre-fill on painted/old work/repairs. Including vinyl products like expansion joints and edging trims etc. For new work I just use taping mud for all taping, bead and edging. I typically hit the screws when taping as well though when I spot screws using taping mud I keep the spotting as small as I can to make it easier to finish and sand. Nothing worse than having two different mud types exposed when sanding. The softer mud will always hollow out. Keep it small and tight when using taping mud on screws. 👍
One ol’ hawk and trowel mudder to another 😂
Try using concrete adhesive as a primer. It will never come off and will provide a uniform surface across patches.
In my country the standard procedure when installing drywall is to glue the boards to the timber or metal frame before screwing them on 😂
I was looking at buying STRAIT-FLEX SUPERBOND 🤔. Your videos are awesome, much appreciated.
Hello. I was curious about which country you live in.
Really? It looks like a waste of man hours and materials.
Someone asked you about using Durabond in some past video and I remember your reply was that if wasn't easy to find in your area. Come on, get a bag, try it, it is very good, although I doubt you haven't tried it already? The only downside is how it is so hard to sand, but that superior strength and adhesion is a good thing since it's appropriate use is as the base coat in demanding taping, repairs and prefill situations where no sanding is needed. The other (I think worse problem) is how it demands you clean your tools right away and very well.
I think adding glue to regular setting compound is an antiquated, more time consuming and inferior to Durabond. Preparing the surface is the most super basic, yet essential step in 1000s of repairs. As you point out, 1:35 "got to sand it ...not enough", so by "not enough"; I don't know if you mean to say that your chemical solution of adding glue removes the need of surface prep sanding or you both sand and add glue?
For the type of greasy/waxy surface that even sanding won't solve I use a ammonia/water solution with a green Scotch Brite pad before sanding. It leaves it squeaky clean with a dull finish. Sanding after leaves an excellently prepared surface.
That’s is…..😞
Wanted to see this entire tape job.
Also, I just love when I’m having to rip out electrical (or rough in, in some cases) and there’s literally a box full of mud, like seriously; how, and why 🤦🏼; especially on remodels we actually add mud rings to all boxes, lol.
Cheers Ben✌🏻
Did you make a video on how to prep a wall to be re-mudded after painting? Such as blemishes or missed areas?
Thanks!
I always use glue in my mud, thanks to you! It hasn't failed yet. It feels weird if I don't put glue in my mud now.
Beaded Silver set muds work great for me.
🍭Thank Ya..Darlin ..hope it's goin Better for you too !!🥂😁🥳
Not long ago I had to use all purpose mud with mesh because I had nothing else on me, and not long after that, I had hairline cracks in the middle..
I know I know, I shouldn't have used all purpose mud with mesh....
With this said , instead of re-taping everything, I just cleared the seems a little bit more without ripping through the mesh, and filled that crack with a mix of all purpose mud and glue, and it worked.
I had already tried on a couple other Seems to fill the cracks with all purpose and it recracked but with the glue it didn't.
Im starting to dig the washboard effect I think (is it affect or effect?). I have been trying I have been trying to make the texture go away. I've been here in the house like days 9 number. Thanksyou video great luck good
Hey Ben, thanks for another great video! I'm curious if you have ever used Durabond? I think it's a USG product. I've used it alot for prefilling and patching and had good results as far as I can tell without adding glue. I did learn quickly that you better keep it flat because there is no sanding the stuff! Thanks for any input you have! Hope you're doing well.
Durabond reminds me of plaster it’s so hard to sand. It is made by USG, same as the “easy sand” (total lie) quickset. The later is what I usually buy at my local Menards when I need a quick set mud.
Has anyone else tried the Rapid Coat Extra Lite? It had a green lid and is made by Continental. I really like using this as a top coat- very smooth application and dries tough but good to sand.
I think patches and prefills are exactly what Durabond was designed for, especially if you are working on old plaster surfaces, where the hardness of the Durabond matches the preexisting surface. The stuff does seem quite sticky without adding any glue, which makes me wonder if there is an adhesive in it already, despite it being a quick setting powder mix.
Love your work. 👍🇦🇺
Forget those cheesy commenters you have a Great point An plus Your like the John Wayne of plastering.
Too add water to my pan I use a spray bottle. On mist fan spray. It lets you add small amount of water over the entire pan. Better for mixing. Sometimes when mud is stiffening up and you want it wetter thinner mist water into your pan until you Get desired feel you want. Water bottle more controllable way to add water. ❤❤😂😂
Would the type of white glue you use mixed with water serve as a good sealing agent for old wallpaper too stubborn to get off? I was thinking of doing that then do a mud skim coat before painting, your advice would be very appreciated.
I'm down in Port Orchard. Same area. If I was to add water and convert premix mud to spray texture, would it good to add glue if I'm spray texturing a smooth surface like plastic coated foam board insulation, like PolyPro or R-tech?
I see him mudding the box, and remember working a site where the sparky pissed off a taper. Needless to say the taper pissed off the sparky after he filled the receptacle box with mud 😅
I had problems with CertainTeed brand all purpose light weight compound. The first coat goes on fine. The second coat causes dried chunkies from the first coat to flake off contaminating the seconcd coat mud making a quality finish impossible. I ended up applying a coat of primer paint between coats of mud to bind it together.
Kombucha for the win! 😆 Got one sitting in front of me, the same bottle! 😆
Guava Goddess :)
@@vancouvercarpenter it's the best one! I mean, it's still bitey, but it's the best one 😂
“What smart assess say in the comments because they know a thing.” Welcome to Vancouver Burninator!
@vancouvercarpenter - I am about to skim coat over an entire ceiling that is popcorn texture mixed into the paint. Absolutely impossible to remove (I've tried). It is entirely covered by glossy paint. Should I add a little bit of glue to the normal premixed mud? I am concerned about it flaking off because of how thick it will be due to the popcorn. I am also wondering if I need to get a light compound?
How about if I am repairing a section over cement board? Will wood glue stick to the cement board and the improve the adhesion to the mud? What might you use to join cement board and mud? It's a bathroom ceiling so want to add something to ensure it's all stick together. thanks!
I have painted pop corn cielings. I want to skim coat it, since wetting & scraping is out of the question. Is this ratio good for painted popcorn ceilings?
Do you think Durabond 90 needs glue added? I called USG and they said that paper tape is better/stronger even on plaster repair, so I'm using that instead of mesh to fix small cracks (after carving out my v). My wall is painted plaster and I was using Durabond without adding anything for adhesion to tape and fill in holes (did not feel like spending 40 bucks on Plasterweld). One small section did not stick for some reason. So I'm going to try again and was thinking, after watching this video, to add add glue.
I kept having to redo my taping!
Would quickcrete concrete bonding adhesive be a good choice ?
Great vid! "because they know a thing" LOL
I have been using a pva product called Unibond for decades now, But I almost never put it IN the plaster, if you want to skim a painted wall brush on 50\50 let it dry, then paint on a full bore coat. When It gets a little more sticky, plaster it while still wet. It will stay on the wall. Some of the pva products sold for plasterers are useless,only experience in your own market can tell you about that. PVA in backing plasters can be useful (repairing lath and plaster ceilings) but it does slow down drying times. Don’t put it in skim coats because if you leave a mark you can’t sand it down easily, and the painters will hate you, it will take forever to dry and the painters will hate you, There will be no suction, the paint will slide and the painters will hate you. PS they hate you anyway, they’re painters.
What about adding glue to the first skim coat if I want to remove texture from my walls? Only if it’s powdered mud?
Great question! Wondering the same, especially when skim-coating powdered 45 over painted surfaces…
Excellent reminder about a technique you usually just gloss over as part of the mixing process. Does adding glue affect the quickset set up/working time?
I'm a noob was green board a bad choice for a cover over existing bath ceailing with a little black mold & blistering painted ceiling? The fan was replaced with higher cfm but, moisture causes streaks down the walls. I thinks its the exhaust fan discharge is too far away from bathroom fan?
What can I use to skim coat over plaster walls?
The thing I find interesting is how old school plasterers and drywall folks have similar yet different ways of tackling the same problems. Kirk puts the product--I think it's called weldcrete--on the wall directly before applying his mud. Now, he probably couldn't use your method with plaster, but I think you could use his method with good results. Might be easier on small patches. I'm guessing you like the mixing method better because it's easier on bigger jobs such as taping.
I think the reason you don't mix pva into plaster is that the plaster is very hard and strong by itself, unlike drywall muds which are quite soft and weak, so mixing in the glue is more likely to compromise the strength of a plaster, but that is just my somewhat informed speculation.
He is using plaster / aka stucco products , and I would guess would not sand or wash down anything before application of the bonding agent.
Thanks for posting
Not a drywaller here, nor am I a carpenter, and nor am I from Canada. So maybe I'm just thinking incorrectly... but if you use the glue, just the glue, after mixing it 50/50 with water.... will that still even glue stuff together? Something tells me that the glue will probably still stick things together, but if you did a side-by-side comparison of, let's say, drywall tape glued to drywall paper - where one is glued with 50/50 water/glue, and the other is 100% glue, the one with water will not be as effective as the 100% glue. So I have to wonder how effective it'd be when spread even thinner. Dunno.
Having said that, I love watching this channel.
Depending on the application, Weldbond calls for anywhere from straight glue to a 10:1 mix. Note also that ALL pva has water in it when you get it.
Oh man, you should totally use that opening on all your future videos, but really lean into it….the videos would open with you in the middle of something like scraping the wall, and then you act surprised, and say “oh! I didn’t see you there”
I didn't know the camera was on yet.
I have a serious question. Can I turn the Topping joint compound into a product similar to Lightweight spackle. I use both and I mixed them together etc., for cake decorating. I feel like I can take heavy topping compound and make it better. (I havent tried Topping lite weight). The spackle is too fluffy. The topping is to heavy but both are good for my art finishes.... Could they be better? Or what additives can i use in topping? Ive tried glue and it cracks the finish.
Hi there Ben , do you think adding glue effects the sanding down property of the mud ??? Regards Frank 🇬🇧
Does adding glue to plaster for a shower ceiling also work the same way is it waterproof?
The only fast set I have ever had delaminate or blister off was certainteed 90. Interesting since you say the same thing about the 45.
Never had issues with cgc products like synko or proset
I always wondered how that mud got into my toilet reservoir. Now I know ! 😉
👍👍👍
yesss, been waiting for this video since your OG glue vids.
Can you make one clarifying the porous bubbles? Im confused about the tight skim thing, is that 1 coat and then dry and then skim again? or like do a skim and then do another one right away? always found that vid abit confusing
On final coat when the bubbles start coming I often have to do a tight skim and then immediately recoat to be able to leave a decent coat. This only happens on painted surfaces not on new board.
@@vancouvercarpenter thanks
Hi Van C, fellow canuck. Would this work for exterior skim coat? I'm trying to make smooth old exterior peeling paint on wood trim. After scraping there are divots (from missing paint) and need something to fill the craters. All the dap spackling say 'do not use as skim coat' especially on exterior. So I'm not sure what to use.
Bondo is a good choice for exterior. It will outlast the wood.
I have a question off topic...I made a template that's an 1/8 of an inch on the wall. I was wondering what joint compound should I use that won't shrink and crack.
What if you add glue to premix does it help with taping or is it a waste of time ?
What does a mud coming off a painted surface look like ?
Is it bad that I watch your channel when I'm ready to fall asleep?
Would u use glue with the lite line stuff that comes in the box but u still gotta add water?
i'm wondering how people prepare a mud in different ways. My favorite is to add a putty powder by "sifting" until it dissolve in a water and add a little more powder. Then wait for a minute and mix.
"Used to be a carpenter"... lol!
I want to fill some voids in a 2x4 that is bear of paint. Can I use drywall compost, and should I add wood glue to it ?
I can't get Hamilton fast set here in Saskatchewan unfortunately, only certainteed and synko. I'm curious how it compares to other brands as far as workability, sandability, and shrinkage. Would you say that's your favorite to work with?
I'd love to see you do a comparison of different pre mix brands, like for like. For instance certainteed finishing vs sykno finishing. Do you have any preference?
Love the vids keep up the good work
The synko pro-set kind of sucks. Poor adhesion and weak. It’s way too light and fluffy for good repair work. Not bad for coating but stick to the certainteed when you need strength.
At what point can you tell there wasn’t good adhesion to a glossy painted or metal surface? Are we talking immediately? Days? Months? Years down the road?
Does anyone know if “Sheetrock” brand has this need for additional glue?
Usually when you apply your next coat of mud or paint. I've tried sheetrock before and I believe adhesion was pretty decent.
If you mean USG easy sand I've had adhesion issues with it over non-porous or excessively porous surfaces. Since then I always add glue to that product.
@@vancouvercarpenter thanks dude. Your help has been instrumental with pulling off this popcorn ceiling removal+drywall repair in my boy’s room.
what about mudding over wallpaper adhesive? I spoke with sherwin williams and they said to use "Blue Mud" from Lowes and that it could be done... is this true?