Learn How to Drywall 👉🏼 ua-cam.com/video/VQIMaR7hWtM/v-deo.html My Beginners Guide to Taping 👉🏼 ua-cam.com/video/naBal346_9c/v-deo.html My Favourite Ways to Sand Drywall👉🏼 ua-cam.com/video/eYHwg0HsmEU/v-deo.html My Favourite Drywall Tools 🇺🇸amzn.to/3KoIj8P My Favourite Drywall Tools 🇨🇦 amzn.to/3C9qQ0t
Thank you so much for this breakdown! It makes it so much easier for my brain to process all of this information. I’m a single 28y/o female who just moved into a new house that had horrible smoke damage (nicotine tar absolutely caked onto every single surface, even the windows were sticky from it. I washed down the walls with TSP over 5 times in 1 bedroom and dark brown juice, looked like liquid tar, just kept seeping down the walls). I told my friend/landlord that there was no way I could live in this house because the previous tenants were there for 10 years and smoked NONSTOP. So he was kind enough to spend $7-8k to hire contractors to come in and rip the carpet, let me pick out whatever kind of flooring I wanted (I did luxury vinyl plank in a ‘White Oak’ color) throughout the whole house except for the bedrooms (bedrooms are a white, high pile fluffy carpet), clean/prime/paint the walls (using an odor/stain blocking primer), as well as knock down the texture on the ceiling, prime, and paint the ceilings. He also replaced my front door! But even with all of that work that was done, there’s still so many surfaces that need redone. My first project has been my bathroom which had half textured walls in it. I removed the texture from the walls and found that it easily peeled right off because…. There was wallpaper underneath it! And then I found something strange - under the wallpaper, there’s wood paneling that isn’t in very good condition at all. So I was stressing out thinking I can’t paint this, I’m gonna have to wallpaper over it. But I’m not a fan of wallpaper and I’d rather have my bathroom all one color, opposed to half of it wallpaper with trim in the middle of the wall, then the top part painted a solid color. So I’ve been trying to educate myself on how to use joint compound, drywall mud, etc. to fill in the holes in the wood paneling and also smooth out the “grain” texture that the paneling has. My dad has never been in my life, my brother works 5-6 days a week and has his own life, I have no uncles or any men in my life to show me how to do this type of thing. I’m tackling this project tomorrow and I seriously can’t thank you enough for this video - now I know what NOT to do and what NOT to buy. You are so very appreciated, much more than you know! Thank you
Jeff Durabond is not for drywall, its good for old fashion window ledge somewhere with heavy moisture not drywall at all, and any sheet rock is not easy sanding at all I was surprised u said so , its just for big first fill not for sanding for sanding just light ready mix
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY Jeff, how long can you store the CGC Machine mud in a box for once the box is opened? Can you partially use this mud and mix small portions by hand? And is this mud superior than Hot Mud for final coat? Thanks
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY I'm gonna need you to make the video so my son learns how to tie his shoes... While your at it he could use so knowledge for wiping his.... Actually let's just stick with the laces ... Love the channel ...
0:00 Intro 1:15 Drywall Compound. Not lightweight and not All-Purpose Mud. Do not use for any project. 2:50 Dust Control. Will not sand to the same texture. Do not use for any project. 5:03 Lightweight All-Purpose Drywall Compound with paper tape. Recommended for most projects. 7:03 Fibreglass tape with powdered compounds having additives. Jeff's favorite is 45 minute, but recommends 90 for most DIYers. 9:44 Durabond 90 vs Sheetrock 90. Sheetrock 90 sands easily, while Durabond 90 has more hardener and is difficult to sand. Don't buy Durabond 90. 12:00 Tips and techniques on preparing to use All-Purpose 13:34 Drydex for small repairs. 16:31 Slow mixer designed for mud mixing 18:45 Mixing the All-Purpose with added water
I love this guy because although he makes you feel you can learn to do anything, he also reminds you that it will be a pain in the ass. His persistent negative character is honestly refreshing. I also like that there's no music.
True he’s more realistic on expectations. I just took down the wood walls from an old mobile home and puting in 1/4 inch dry wall in. First time working with it and it was definitely a pain until i got into a grove. First room took 2 days second room 7 hours
I lost my dad mid last year from a head injury, 1 year away from his 35 year union carpenter pin at Local 270; and with him went decades of knowledge I never got the chance to learn and build with my old man. We just closed on our second home, one we wanted to gut and remake our own. And, if it wasnt for your channel I dont think I'd ever be up to the challenge. Hoping to make my old man proud. I hope this doesn't sound weird, just wanted to let you know the impact your channel has had on my dreams of carpentry work going forward without a side kick.
Thanks for the comment, that was nice to read. I miss my father as well, I wish he could c me as I’ve gotten older. Best of luck on the new place and b sure to take ur time with it. Make ur pops proud and do it right...cheers!!
I’m in the same situation, sort of. Lost my father and took over his house. Unlike yours, my father was NOT a handy man, so here I am, remodeling and renovating on my own. This channel has been tremendously helpful during this process (as well as Ben from Vancouver Carpenter). I just wish they’d talk about the US equivalent of the products they use, since I’m down here in the States. It’s a head scratcher sometimes.
@@eyespy3001 same, I'm in Illinois. Guys like us lean heavily on these big UA-cam channels, they are invaluable. I hope they truly can see that, coming especially from guys in situations like us.
Lost my dad in December to a snowmobile accident. He was an incredibly experienced GC who was my mentor for many things. Hurts every day, miss him like crazy. Not only was he the best mentor anybody could hope for, but he was an amazing dad and a loving husband. A true role model. We were going to do a huge renovation together, and he died right before we were due to start. I've been watching Jeff's videos because I can't just text my dad and ask for advice anymore, he's been such a help. I'm sorry for your loss, but I'm very thankful for your comment. Also thankful for the effort Jeff puts into his high-quality videos. Last project we did together (a few days before he died) was some concrete bollards to add required protection around a propane tank. Stupid simple project, but I'm so happy we got to do it. I'll forever look at those bollards and think of him! Edit: also, your comment is not weird at all. Grown men loving and missing their dad is a good thing. Testament to his parenting.
I’ve been doing this for 20 years, this is the best mud explanation video I’ve seen yet. This man is spot on with everything he said here. Great video.
I am a plasterer not a dry wall finisher. But I do use drywall mud for patches because it sticks to paint without bonder. I use Durabond45, 2 Coats with fiberglass tape as the backer (if small enough to not need rock). Then Premix garbage mud in a bucket (all purpose) for the finish because you can edge it with a wet sponge once dry for blending without sanding(non setting type). I rarely even use a sanding sponge for any of the coats because I apply each coat as soon as the last one is dry to the touch but still wet enough to slide mud across. The fiberglass tape definitely helps with shrinkage. 45 minute set after mixing gives me about 30-35 minutes of application time before it starts to show its starting to set. Durabond also works well as a skip coat applied with a trowel over paint to retexture a smooth wall. (No sanding) If you want an awesome spackle get the dap 8x. It doesn't shrink and is ready to paint in 20 minutes, best stuff I've seen in 25 years. When I say it doesn't shrink I really mean that I've filled some pretty serious dents. Home depot pails are better to mix in now, I have a stack I've been mixing in for a long time. My paddle is a jagged b****** and still never have any problems. I use that same drill it's 15 years old.
I just used Durabond on a plaster wall repair in my 1950s build home. Worked great. Wall has a similar toughness to the original areas around it. Used all purpose lightweight as a finish coat after.
Same almost. It was a very rough stucco wall that they couldn't keep clean, on the waiters side of a restaurant kitchen . The hard sharp points kept shredding their cleaning cloths. I knocked of the points with a belt sander, applied Durabond, and smoothed it over as I went with a wet sponge. After a coat of white paint it looked great. A smooth bumpy texture like ripples on water.
I wish I would've known about this stuff when I fixed the plaster walls of my house after removing the wallpaper. I screwed in 1/4 inch drywall to the lathe and taped and put 45 minute mud on
I’m an apprentice carpenter and I’ve been asking the pro finisher a lot of questions about plaster and Sheetrock compound recently. He mentioned durabond as a great option to connect plaster walls to Sheetrock in old homes if you have to remove for example a plaster ceiling or plaster wall and don’t want to replace it with more lathe and plaster.
Thank you Jeff. I have watched hundreds of UA-cam DIY videos and you are one of three that I actually follow. Your easy-going, “don’t worry, you can do it” is refreshing. Decades ago my father-in-law was a master electrician and jack of all trades. OMG, the most patient person I ever met. He taught me so much! I swear, I would not be able to perform any DIY without the memory of his lessons and attitude. You remind me of those qualities and I am very appreciative.
13:30 - dang, getting ready to paint my downstairs. I'm learning so much about what I've been doing wrong for 30 years. I'm a typical homeowner trying to repair all of the damage the kids caused while growing up.
Thank you so much for this breakdown! It makes it so much easier for my brain to process all of this information. I’m a single 28y/o female who just moved into a new house that had horrible smoke damage (nicotine tar absolutely caked onto every single surface, even the windows were sticky from it. I washed down the walls with TSP over 5 times in 1 bedroom and dark brown juice, looked like liquid tar, just kept seeping down the walls). I told my friend/landlord that there was no way I could live in this house because the previous tenants were there for 10 years and smoked NONSTOP. So he was kind enough to spend $7-8k to hire contractors to come in and rip the carpet, let me pick out whatever kind of flooring I wanted (I did luxury vinyl plank in a ‘White Oak’ color) throughout the whole house except for the bedrooms (bedrooms are a white, high pile fluffy carpet), clean/prime/paint the walls (using an odor/stain blocking primer), as well as knock down the texture on the ceiling, prime, and paint the ceilings. He also replaced my front door! But even with all of that work that was done, there’s still so many surfaces that need redone. My first project has been my bathroom which had half textured walls in it. I removed the texture from the walls and found that it easily peeled right off because…. There was wallpaper underneath it! And then I found something strange - under the wallpaper, there’s wood paneling that isn’t in very good condition at all. So I was stressing out thinking I can’t paint this, I’m gonna have to wallpaper over it. But I’m not a fan of wallpaper and I’d rather have my bathroom all one color, opposed to half of it wallpaper with trim in the middle of the wall, then the top part painted a solid color. So I’ve been trying to educate myself on how to use joint compound, drywall mud, etc. to fill in the holes in the wood paneling and also smooth out the “grain” texture that the paneling has. My dad has never been in my life, my brother works 5-6 days a week and has his own life, I have no uncles or any men in my life to show me how to do this type of thing. I’m tackling this project tomorrow and I seriously can’t thank you enough for this video - now I know what NOT to do and what NOT to buy. You are so very appreciated, much more than you know! Thank you
I'm so glad I found this channel. I JUST closed on my first house, but she needs some updating badly and while I'm ready to get my hands dirty, I definitely need guidance like this!
Have fun. My girlfriend and I bought an old farm house...man did it need some work. Learned a ton and the interior is a completely different home then when we bought it. Now, for the exterior 🤣
Thanks Jeff! I'm an 'old guy' that's been in vehicle maintenance for 50 years. Done LOTS of bodywork/body filler and sheet metal repairs and replacement. So much of your comments were humorous and I enjoyed them. You demonstrated some 'tricks' today I'll use in the near future in my home. Glad to see so much of what I have been doing from watching other videos and other true 'drywall' experts was on the right track. Now with your guidance here, I'll master the finer details! THANKS! 👏👏👏
I’m a homeowner, and I always use Durabond 90 for the first coat - I apply it thin so there’s still room to fill on top with Sheetrock 90. I’ve NEVER had a joint crack. I really think it is worth using.
I get that you never had any problems with how you use Durabond, but the manufacturer specifically advises against using any setting type compound as a skim coat because it will dry before it hardens.
@@tonyc7352 When I say I apply it "thin" - I don't mean a skim coat. I mean for joints - the first coat on corner beads and inside corners. The reason for saying that first coat is "thin" is because you have to make sure it doesn't stick out beyond what you want for your finished surface because it is almost impossible to sand once it sets. If your base (wood/metal) construction is solid, you'll never have a crack because the Durabond is as strong (or stronger) than the drywall itself.
@@jaireidca Okay, I see how that is not thin like a skim coat, I mistook your description. I do like using Durabond, (and regular setting compound) too. I've used it mostly for pre filling, deep fills or areas that are prone to moisture like drywall-return windows.
I just bought a house and the garage was only taped and mud... by a blind person. Before paint I have to go over every square foot of all surfaces. Thank you for this video, and all the drywall videos.
I'm in the exact same situation. I know it can be level 5 without tearing out the nasty tape. Good luck with yours, use a top coat after 2-3 coats of your choosing.
Awesome video. I'm living in a DIY small house. It's called a shed to house because they sell them rent to own sheds. I'm so glad I found your channel. Since I'm a 60 plus age lady I really need help. Now I can know What to buy when I get ready to do this dry wall mud. I have many tools from my dad and grandpa. Maybe I'll finally learn what they are lol. Much love from Texas.
Bought a house back in September, and I watched your entire drywall video series when I decided to skim coat my entire house (still in the middle of doing is since we really only work on the house on the weekend), and it really helped a lot! You make it look so easy in your videos haha. But I found out that while the tips you gave really helped, you really have to get a feel for manipulating drywall mud. So I learned a lot from the mistakes I made myself (and I made A TON haha). (edit: I was considering doing a writeup of all the mistakes a beginner may make as a sort of warning for people haha. I think this would be different than pro tips, because pros like you wouldn't even consider all of the stupid stuff that a beginner like me did hahah) For instance, one really annoying mistake I made was that I used different types of drywall mud on the same layer. When I first started skim coating, I didn't know how to prevent those tiny bubbles that turn into tiny holes. So I filled them with the 45 min mud mix, and that's when I learned that it's pretty much impossible to blend in the 45 min mud and all-purpose mud with sanding because they don't sand the same way with 45 min mud being almost impossible to sand haha. (btw, I learned that I don't really like using or need 45 min mud because 1) I'm not in a hurry to get projects done, and 2) I'm much better at sanding something to get a perfect shape and texture so I'd rather have the flexibility of a compound that is easy to sand) So I pretty much just got it down to being acceptable and then just skim coated another coat on top with Topping compound (I was going to do two layers anyway, so it wasn't a big deal). I sometimes rewatch the "How to Fix Any Drywall Mistake" just for entertainment haha. But I love that video because you really took the fear out of putting a hole in the wall.
Toss in a dab of dish soap to prevent the bubbles on the finish coat. Apply and remove opposite ways. Scrape previous bubbles if you sand then pockets will fill with dust and new cost over pockets won’t get good bond and will fall out and will need to coat again
@@amilli092 I've actually grown quite competent at drywalling since I posted this 10 months ago =). Taping definitely wasn't easy when I first started, but as long as I remember the pitfalls to avoid (e.g. making sure to prefill), I've been able to get smooth walls without any blistering or cracking
So you wouldn’t mix muds on the same layer? My husband did the taping with 45 min mud and said he didn’t recommend because it takes so long to mix and get it perfect. So I got a bucket of the pre mixed all purpose to do the 2nd and 3rd layer. Haven’t started yet
@@dakotasnider2468 Oh, that should be fine. I'm talking about a scenario where you have to touch up one part of your premix skim coat. You won't be able to blend it into the rest. Also, if you do need to patch up anything, and you use the same mud, don't press it in too hard. It'll compress the mud and that part won't sand as easily, and you'll run into the same problem. Hope that makes sense!
Your children are the luckiest in the world to have a dad that knows alot !! Just finished my own basement thanks to you ! I never had a parent to guide me tru but your videos are awsome thank you man !!!
I love all purpose. That said, i'm used to it. Keep your tape flat, and mix your finish coat with water so that it's thinner, and it's great with a hard finish that won't damage easily. Great for residential - especially in high traffic areas.
I wish I had seen this before buying the small blue bucket. It's absolutely true: hard to sand, thicker than necessary and dries out easily if not using the entire bucket. The 45 minute hot mud is so much better. Thanks!
Best 23 minutes I ever spent on mud. I can now win every argument about why certain muds SUCK, when it comes time to sand. We have all noticed it, we all doubted ourselves because we havent gone to Mud College, but now we know.. that mud DID suck when I tried to sand it.
Thank you for all the information! As per your recommendation, it's "homeowner savvy" to clean the inside brim of the mud bucket; no crispy chunks in the finish, lasts almost forever!
I use Durabond 90 alot on plaster before a finish coat and alot on applying sheetrock to cinderblock or brick, after it has been waterproofed. Works great!
Oh my goodness. Where was this video ten years ago when I was doing my first diy job for myself? Thank you for posting this video. VERY helpful and I've since learned and use the pink stuff.
A few bags of Durabond 90 allowed me to save all of the plaster & lath in my house after a total rewire/replumb. Miracle product. I went in knowing it sets up like concrete and I had absolutely no problems with it, even having never done any drywall or plaster before. Wet sanding is key
Love the stuff. Really excels with prefill, crack susceptible joints, and taping/bridging massive gaps. I use it to wet shim drywall, kerdi, and backer board all the time. Get the 20 min, slap some on the studs, add just enough screws to pull the board straight, then in about 10 minutes finish it off. Laser straight walls and tile substrates.
I use durabond for prefilling, and i use all purpose heavy mud for skimming ceilings that are getting texture... i wet sand my hard edges and i get great results. If i was doing production work all purpose light all the way. My van has fix-all, 20lb bags of 5 minute mud, 45 minute easy sand, and all purpose heavy. I find all purpose heavy mud to be great for texture as it doesn't scratch easily when i go back to sand it.
Hi, former joint compound formulation scientist here! Love the channel, it's helping me a lot with my kitchen reno! Great recommendations all around. Some of the products are definitely not as easy as others for DYIers. Hard to sand products will have higher compressive and tensile strength, which are made for drywall contractors and manufactured housing. Ex: using the products you showcased, the Durabond would be used to prefill joints before the tape coat, patching holes with areas that receive high volume impact (like chairs hitting walls), or anywhere one might want added strength (outside corners).
I'm just a home owner fixing a poorly finished basement, and I gotta say Durabond is some awesome stuff. Use it where ever you need strength: big fills, floating out wavy walls, patching corners, fixing underfilled cornerbead. As for sanding, underfill with durabond (fill to 90-95%), then finish the rest will all purpose. I've screed out some walls that were so wavy I was debating whether I should rip out the drywall and plane/shim the studs. Instead I screed with Durabond using a technique that was probably closer to plastering, and then skim coated with all purpose. I only use easy sand when time is an issue (5-minute or 45 minute) or a repair would shrink too much or take too many coats if I used pre-mixed mud.
Great video! Love the honest opinion. And like the scientist guy sez, if I need a super duty joint, repair, or base in a humid prone area I use durabond for the plaster content. I also use it for 100y old plaster repair. You are correct though, as you need to know it might as well be cement.
@@mattpeterson553 same thing here...in excess of 1/4” hollow spots that really could only be filled with Durabond as the bulk filler mud. But I’ve had some bond failures I cannot explain. I had previously skim coated over orange peel with AP (green), realized the area was really hollow, then tried 45”. Still needing more, I bought Durabond due to it being 25 lbs. and cheaper. It must have activated the original skim with AP because I had large chunks easily chip off revealing the orange peel which had been painted with latex. I went back with 45” to repair those spots and it’s really stuck.
Hey Joshua drywaller here. My father's been doing it for 30 years, green bucket to tape then dark blue to coat, easy sand to fill large cracks. My question is, the stuff that is harder to sand, is there any credence to the idea that the tougher stuff to sand is less likely to crack? We still are not sure. Sometimes I think the tougher stuff is more brittle, and in new construction may be likely to split all your joints as your framing moves and settles. Good application seems to be paramount but I would guess there's performance differences between these products right? Maybe? It's why I'm even scouring youtube for the answers lol
The durabond much like paster cures rather than dries, its best for areas that get hit or have excess moisture issues. It wont turn back into mud from humidity.
Love the idea of the hawk over the bucket so simple but so useful. Definitely not for beginners but I wouldn't use anything but Durabond 90 for taping and the initial coat over the tape. We live in a 220 yr old house where everything is always shifting and it never cracks.
Back at Christmas Time... 3 days before Christmas to be exact the date... a stain showed up on our Kitchen ceiling. I watched many of your You Tubes on repair and MUD. On thing I did differently I bought a Wifi fiber optic camera (that I paired with my iPhone) from Amazon drilled a hole in the ceiling to find the leak. I'm glad I did that because the leak was a foot away from where I would have made the cut in the ceiling, the leak ran along a seam and fooled me about where it truly was!!! My wife was all for me having a professional do the work. I have done mission work in orphanages in Mexico (ten years) so I have done everything form Plumbing, electrical, roofing and sheetrock... but to tell you the truth I learned so much from you videos on Sheetrock. I'm a "Hot Mud Guy" now, when I got through following your tips; using the Zip Wall, mixing my own 45 minute mud and watching you move the trowel. I came a way with a perfect ceiling patch... last week we finally painted the ceiling and when you wife says... "I'm impressed with you work!" As far as I'm concerned that's a credit to your videos on repairing. The Zip wall kept all the dust in and my wife was most impressed with that, especially when I dropped the plastic walls onto the plastic liner on the floor wrapped everything up and into a plastic bag... That's what really impressed her... no mess! Jeff great video, great teacher... learned so much really appreciate your work!
Yes definitely, if you use premixed lightweight joint compounds as a first coat you risk hairline cracking. Using durabond or any other mix yourself joint compound might seem like extra work but it saves you time in the end because it will dry faster and harder.
@@TheRevolucas 1st coat never use lightweight premix cause then ur likely to have cracks going forth on ur joints. Use AP green lid (US mud) because there is more adhesive in it. B sure to let it entirely dry though b4 u recoat it with a lightweight which will make for an easier sand.
if you read the CGC/USG/manufacturers booklet then you are doing it as per the manual. many skip the pre-fill stage, but like many processes it is the necessary step if you have large gaps (>1/4") between your drywall sheets. You can use lightweight but durabond gives the best results.
Gents, appreciate your comments here, we’ve got some small cracks in walls and for some reason my wife thinks all men know how to do mud and taping. Your comments will help.
4:47 is why I love Jeff. Haha I was just at Home Depot and almost bought a small jug of the all purpose and didn't. One week later this video comes out. Impeccable timing!
Thank you!!! I just bought the brown bag from home depot because I thought it was more durable for high traffic areas lol I'm going to return it! 😅 thanks again
I am an advanced DIYer, currently finishing the basement. I used Durabond 90 to prefill all the gaps and embed the paper tape, mesh tape as well as inside and outside TrimTex corner beads. It shrinks less than the regular all purpose and gets rock hard. I did second and third coat with Sheetrock Plus 3 (it's lightweight all purpose) sold at Lowes in US.
I am using Durabond90 this weekend to repair deep cracks in my plaster on lath home, as well as plaster that popped off shared concrete wall (semi-detached house.) DB90 fills larger voids, dries hard and doesn't crack. I really like this product for building up the base coat and repairs, then topcoat it with Sheetrock45, which is sandable.
@@stephenholland6328 Good tip thanks. I was thinking the same thing. i use fix it all from home depot. It dries literally in 10 minutes and gets rockhard. If somebody punched a hole in the wall, you could use fix it all to fill it by itself. Just make sure to feather it before it dries. Otherwise you're going to be standing rock, lol.
I like to use the powder on the first coat and then use Plus 3 on the final coats, almost no sanding, just have to knock down ridges and feather. I also like using the vacuum sanding attachment that Hyde tools sells that goes on any shop vac.
Like the hot mud too. If you catch it right in the hardening process it feels like you are carving it flat. Keeps dust down and is quick. Sometimes it's so smooth I just finish with the hot mud.
I'm a simple man. Box of blue taping mud. Box of red all-purpose lightweight, and 45 minute hot mud. Paper tape for flats, butts, angles. And fibafuse for detail work. If something else is required I obtain as necessary.
my system, as a non professional, has come down to 2 products. I use the dry 20 or 45 minute powder for my base taping/patching with fiberglass tape. Then I use premixed boxes of what's called Plus 3 for my texture and everything else. I add about 2-4 cups of water to each box, depending. The plus 3 doesn't shrink, and is easy to sand. Essentially it creates a 2 coat system. I tape and patch with the 20/45, then fill/level and texture at the same time with the plus 3. Done.
EXACTLY! this is a true patch person!!!!! get it done, you may not be a pro but your doing it like a pro. i have been Drywaller for 30 years and you my friend spelled it out to the "T". one thing i add is topping MUD to my finished patches or coats due to its Non Shrinking characteristics so its smooth as butter.
@@Ty-hq8pm Well, it's gone beyond patches. I'm remodeling 2 homes right now. So a combination of new drywall from gutting some rooms, knocking out walls, repairs, and I'm hand applying a custom texture everywhere because I'm sick of looking at the knocked down orange peel spray texture. It's labor intensive covering every wall/ceiling surface by hand, compared to spraying, but I really like the texture I've come up with. I tried the general purpose, but it would take 2 coats to cover the existing texture since it shrinks. The plus 3 has worked great for me since it doesn't shrink, allowing a 1 coat combo fill/level/texture coat. They don't sell topping mud where I live.
@@AnAbortiveRomance ya all purpose all the way for the initial coats to get coverage and fill in the deep spots. hand textures are tough, i do alot of what i call skip trowel which resembles exterior stucco but i use topping mud with silica sand and turns out sweet, and then stomp brush textures are always fun. keep up the great work because your end piece will bring great satisfaction my friend
I am renovating my laundry room. It also houses my HW tank and Furnace. Original floor was installed in the 70's. I ripped out all the old studs and rebuilt the back wall with an indent to recess my W&D. This weekend I am taking out the W&D to install all drywall and then floor. I have done a lot (I mean A LOT) of DIY projects over the years. I have always used 'all purpose'... NEVER AGAIN!!! thank you for this video. I spent many hours frustrated and angry at myself because I thought I was always mixing the mud wrong. My walls always needed to have 3, 4 or 5 sandings. People @ HD kept telling me it was the right mud and I must be doing something wrong. HMPF!!! Now I know it wasn't me. I bought the 90, you suggested... Damn! SOOOOO much better (and a lot less sanding). Thank you Jeff!!! Happy I joined your channel and love to see all your videos. Future Video Req.: I am dividing a room that has a 12' vaulted ceiling. Found a weird 'support' beam inside one wall (attic is behind the wall). They tripled the studs above the cross-beam (to the peak) but intalled ZERO support directly below the peak under beam. YIKES! makes no sense! Any chance you have something taped regarding my situation? Thank you so much :-)
I bought the durabond, got halfway through my job, your video popped up. As soon as you said bondo, my heart sank. I bondoed a car at 16. What a job! Looking forward to sanding now!!!
I use the Durabond 90 on the corners and frame around my cased openings and arched openings (doorways without doors) as it provides a very hard surface that prevents damage when moving furniture (or wheelchairs, especially) through the opening.
great idea, I use Durabond 90 for plaster cracks no need for tape. who is this bozo he knows nothing about all purpose i use it for taping and bed coats. this last job i did someone didnt glue the board and i had no cracks using all purpose green bucket. it has the most glue from my experience try ripping the tap it will leave half the tape.
Awesome instructor/teacher. I'm hooked, watch your videos everyday and started doing some drywall work. It's funny because every response is " oh no, that's years and years of work. you'll never get it." My work may not be perfect but getting better and now that I'm watching this channel I'm stoked to learn something new. Thanks for sharing the knowledge.
Thanks Jeff! My first attempt at drywall finishing looked more like a Jackson pollack painting than a drywall finish job. I looked more like a living paper Mache man that a real person. However, you have taught me so much, made my home projects so much easier that today, I'm actually doing acceptable work. Fair warning to all, Jeff makes it look easy, fast and clean. Don't expect the same results but do not get frustrated because the techniques take a while to master (at least for me). Thanks again Jeff and have a profitable day!
The pink stuff is polymer based so it flashes like crazy when used on drywall. Its more for nail holes in wood bet even then im not a fan. Light weight spackle is way better imo
@@jpitt916 I find the extreme lightweight has a bit of elasticity so its good for finish carpentry related filling (im a carpenter so I do a lot of baseboard and casing). I rarely do drywall repairs and when I do i never use it for that unless im only filling a tiny hole like one that a picture or something would leave. Anything more then that I usually use sheetrock 5.
@@kwiknikk after painting, when you look at the wall from a certain angle (especially when light is casting down it) the patch will be easy to see because the patched area will be a higher sheen then the rest of the wall (in this case it is caused by the polymer contained in the dry dex).
Thank you for this video. I was one to buy the wrong mud for my first go. I am scarred. Light All Purpose mixed and stored properly for the win. The product and it's prep is everything.
I have used the All Purpose Drywall Compound 12L pale for my entire basement using both paper and fibre mesh tape and had no issues whatsoever... minimal sanding and wall texture after priming was great. 1200 sq ft. I would recommend it
@@BerryMcCaulkiner859 That's exactly what I am doing. Using the green lid for taping and first layer of screws. Blue lid after that. No sanding of that all-purpose mud. Added a whopping $16 to my project. And a little exercise carrying the bucket upstairs.
I use all purpose for taping only use paper tape and use +3 light weight to bed and finish and i only use usg manufacture. On a small job i just use +3 light weight
You're making me want to go mud some walls. Unfortunately, I have a house that I am still stripping lath out of and am probably five steps away from installing drywall in at the moment.
The durabond is a great product to use as a filler for areas that have major gaps between joints more that 1/2" or more prior to taping (you could also use the concrete filler for that to). It prevents major cracking at joints. The all purpose (or heavy) in the green box/bucket, has more adhesive applied to it which makes it ideal for taping, but it is harder to sand, takes a lot longer to setup and typically shrinks a lot. So it's only good for taping. But like you said, the best product to use by far is the light weight all purpose cuz it's easy to work with and sands easily. You can also use the light to tape with, but you should us an adhesive additive to it assist the tape with adhering better. I like using the light weight for bigger areas, but I prefer to use the hot mud (easy sand 45) because you don't have to wait so long before you can coat it.
All this time I have been cursed with trying to sand a proper finish on my patch jobs. I have used nothing but that blue premixed pail. 🤪 Thank you for all the detailed content you provide.
Don’t know if you mentioned this Jeff, but if you use water used to clean tools that you used to apply hot mud to mix a new batch of mud it will shorten the work time significantly. Have to use fresh water not contaminated with previous hot mud.
The all purpose drywall compound in the US (green lid) is really easy to sand and comes in 3 sizes. And the "easy sand" quick set is much much harder to sand
Facts!! Never had a problem sanding AP in the states. I don’t know y ppl r hating on dust control either because if u compare dust control to AP or plus 3 the amount of dust in the air is significantly less hence the name dust control. Ppls expectations in having no dust is unrealistic from the start. If u watch the amount of dust in dust control that falls to the floor versus any other mud u can very easily c that this is where the dust goes as opposed to the air
@@borys444 yeah very true! I always know when someone is BSing their level of experience on a job when they say "why dont we just use easy sand" for the final coat....clearly not realizing its near impossible to sand.
Even as a homeowner, i've drywalled a lot and used Durabond 90 to imbed my fiber mesh tape. In fact, i like to keep my drywall panels seperated by an eight of an inch or so and push in the Durabond in between before I apply my mesh then carefully skim over the mesh tape. That helps ensure no future cracks in my estimation. Durabond is like cement, and is what ensures a strong base underlying finish.
Jeff, In the US the first one you talked about has a green lid, yes it's garbage. But the White bucket blue lid is our equivalent of machine mud. It's called "lightweight" here. Dust control is grey bucket blue (if i recall right) lid. We're lucky that joint compound still comes in buckets here. It's my favorite source of buckets (even if they're not quite 5 gallons).
we used that durabond on old houses for lathe and plaster walls it is a good base coat for filling in a patch then putting the finish compound over it . we also discovered that you shouldn't scrape any into a sink it will harden in your drain
Honestly, I like the pre-mix for finishing the drywall (my walls are smooth). It thins easily, and I never have an issue with little nuggets in the mud. I always seem to find the one or two nuggets in the ready-mix stuff, which leaves that drag mark EVERY TIME
Spent years as a general home repair business owner learning the hard way. And that included listening to some so called experts. Wish I had your brain to pick years ago. Wisdom comes with time and experience. These terms are often mutually exclusive however.
Thanks for explaining! Been doing diy bootleg drywall for decades here and there and always use easy sand or whatever I have laying around then end with spackle. I've used hot mud, but it's more stressful (like concrete) so usually don't. Really like how you summarized the products all in one. Thanks
I took down a popcorn ceiling and... they had used durabond for patches in some places. First time I'd encountered the product and I didn't know what it is. Before i figured out I could never get it off, I had damaged a lot of spots of the paper nearby. I eventually got it fixed but now I have to feather down all those patches and then skim coat the whole ceiling to get it smooth and even. I agree, durbond just creates new problems down the line.
Jeff, I just finished my last application of mud on a bathroom renovation project. I wish this came out sooner. Working with it has been so frustrating and this video showed me why. Thanks.
I friend of mine who is a professional builder recommended Durabond 90 for plastering around my washroom sink. I have a concrete wall behind the sink with a thin plaster and several coats of old paint that were applied when the wall was keeping damaged every few years from accidental splashing water on it. He said if you don't want your wall to be ruined from water splashing don't use compounds that can be sanded. The challenge he said is applying it smooth and even without sanding.
Jeff, I have a suggestion. Can you add text over-lays on your videos... like what people do in Powerpoint. I just want to see the main key points that you are talking about. For example at 5:48 to 6:00. I know this adds time into the editing but helps stress out what you are discussing.
I worked at a hospital and we used the Durabond 90 in the inpatient psych ward. It had to set fast and if it was not rock hard the patients would dig it back out.
One thing he seems to forget to mention is that while he recommends many of the "hot mix" drywall muds, they are less forgiving for homeowners who aren't "mudding experts". This is because mix-it-yourself muds are much harder to sand making your life very difficult if you don't know how to feather mud, or apply it perfectly. If you are like many homeowners and overapply mud, can't apply it smoothly, or can't feather an edge stick with all purpose premixed. Otherwise you'll be sanding forever.
This was really great! Thank you for the right information. I’ve had bad experiences with both of the blue and purple lid buckets already. Thankfully they were applied in the area where the wall isn’t visible.
@misha half the things this guy said were wrong. If you want to learn about drywall, go watch some videos made by someone that’s actually in the trade. This guy’s a DIY handyman hack.
Regarding why durabond is made (the presenter said he didn’t understand why it’s produced at all), it is for prefilling joints prior to tape. In certain areas, especially like seattle where there is a lot of moisture… the wood framing can expand and contract, causing cracks in the drywall joints over time. The durabond “locks” the sheets in place to provide a stronger foundation for subsequent coats and ensure no cracks for years to come. It also helps to prefill large gaps in sub-par hanging jobs.
Durabond I believe is a high glue concentrate that is made for plaster applications. Pro mudders will use because they are experts at using it. Also the green pale sold here in the U.S is to have higher glue concentration according to my coworker that did dry wall for a living per sheet. He like to use it for conners and use 90 or 45 on his other joints that don't have high traffic contact.
Hey Jeff, thanks for another great video! I've been watching you for a few years and really appreciate all the great information you pack into these tutorials. Two questions: 1) I've always bought the setting type powders (45 and 90) since it's convenient to always have around and it lasts for years. That said, there seems to be something to the machine mud in terms of consistency and not having to worry about it setting up so fast. Is there such a thing this in a powder form? It'd be nice to have something on hand that didn't have a hardener mixed in. 2) You mentioned that the paper tape should not be used with the setting type compounds. I've never heard this before - is that really true? Care to elaborate? I just did a bit of reading and while I can verify that fiberglass tape should not be used with machine mud, I was not able to find anything that indicates paper tape should not be used with the setting type powders.
I use durabond 90 to prifill joints and bad drywall that has gaps before i tape... it helps to prevent cracks later on. I almost exlusively use the all purpose pail mud you don't like for repair work as its convenient, i get the pail, add water, mix in the pail in 1/3s with a knife and go... I don't sand until after my final coat, and very lightly sand just to feather edges... I've found many people today don't work clean or precise, which results in entirely waaaay too much uneccessary sanding being done. Your technique to get the box mud into a pail is perfect, no mess, better to have the mud on the wall than your clothes and the floor.
Hi Jeff. Great vids. Best d.i.y channel on UA-cam. Awsome information and demonstrations. Brilliant! Looking forward to more. Take care and stay safe. 🇬🇧👌👍😊
Learn How to Drywall 👉🏼 ua-cam.com/video/VQIMaR7hWtM/v-deo.html
My Beginners Guide to Taping 👉🏼 ua-cam.com/video/naBal346_9c/v-deo.html
My Favourite Ways to Sand Drywall👉🏼 ua-cam.com/video/eYHwg0HsmEU/v-deo.html
My Favourite Drywall Tools 🇺🇸amzn.to/3KoIj8P
My Favourite Drywall Tools 🇨🇦 amzn.to/3C9qQ0t
Thank you so much for this breakdown! It makes it so much easier for my brain to process all of this information. I’m a single 28y/o female who just moved into a new house that had horrible smoke damage (nicotine tar absolutely caked onto every single surface, even the windows were sticky from it. I washed down the walls with TSP over 5 times in 1 bedroom and dark brown juice, looked like liquid tar, just kept seeping down the walls). I told my friend/landlord that there was no way I could live in this house because the previous tenants were there for 10 years and smoked NONSTOP. So he was kind enough to spend $7-8k to hire contractors to come in and rip the carpet, let me pick out whatever kind of flooring I wanted (I did luxury vinyl plank in a ‘White Oak’ color) throughout the whole house except for the bedrooms (bedrooms are a white, high pile fluffy carpet), clean/prime/paint the walls (using an odor/stain blocking primer), as well as knock down the texture on the ceiling, prime, and paint the ceilings. He also replaced my front door!
But even with all of that work that was done, there’s still so many surfaces that need redone. My first project has been my bathroom which had half textured walls in it. I removed the texture from the walls and found that it easily peeled right off because…. There was wallpaper underneath it! And then I found something strange - under the wallpaper, there’s wood paneling that isn’t in very good condition at all. So I was stressing out thinking I can’t paint this, I’m gonna have to wallpaper over it. But I’m not a fan of wallpaper and I’d rather have my bathroom all one color, opposed to half of it wallpaper with trim in the middle of the wall, then the top part painted a solid color. So I’ve been trying to educate myself on how to use joint compound, drywall mud, etc. to fill in the holes in the wood paneling and also smooth out the “grain” texture that the paneling has. My dad has never been in my life, my brother works 5-6 days a week and has his own life, I have no uncles or any men in my life to show me how to do this type of thing. I’m tackling this project tomorrow and I seriously can’t thank you enough for this video - now I know what NOT to do and what NOT to buy. You are so very appreciated, much more than you know! Thank you
Jeff Durabond is not for drywall, its good for old fashion window ledge somewhere with heavy moisture not drywall at all, and any sheet rock is not easy sanding at all I was surprised u said so , its just for big first fill not for sanding for sanding just light ready mix
This guy could be teaching how to tie your shoes and I’d still watch. I always learn something from him.
I got a great trick for laces too. Cheers!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY
😂
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY Jeff, how long can you store the CGC Machine mud in a box for once the box is opened?
Can you partially use this mud and mix small portions by hand?
And is this mud superior than Hot Mud for final coat?
Thanks
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY I'm gonna need you to make the video so my son learns how to tie his shoes... While your at it he could use so knowledge for wiping his.... Actually let's just stick with the laces ... Love the channel ...
This guy should go on the road and help DIY'ers
0:00 Intro
1:15 Drywall Compound. Not lightweight and not All-Purpose Mud. Do not use for any project.
2:50 Dust Control. Will not sand to the same texture. Do not use for any project.
5:03 Lightweight All-Purpose Drywall Compound with paper tape. Recommended for most projects.
7:03 Fibreglass tape with powdered compounds having additives. Jeff's favorite is 45 minute, but recommends 90 for most DIYers.
9:44 Durabond 90 vs Sheetrock 90. Sheetrock 90 sands easily, while Durabond 90 has more hardener and is difficult to sand. Don't buy Durabond 90.
12:00 Tips and techniques on preparing to use All-Purpose
13:34 Drydex for small repairs.
16:31 Slow mixer designed for mud mixing
18:45 Mixing the All-Purpose with added water
This guy here has created micro minutes for Jeffs video! I love it, im reviewing this like im at work. lol
I use dust control all the time.. I have never had that problem.
Except all purpose is not at 5:03; it’s a minute later…
I love this guy because although he makes you feel you can learn to do anything, he also reminds you that it will be a pain in the ass. His persistent negative character is honestly refreshing. I also like that there's no music.
True he’s more realistic on expectations. I just took down the wood walls from an old mobile home and puting in 1/4 inch dry wall in. First time working with it and it was definitely a pain until i got into a grove. First room took 2 days second room 7 hours
... and no 3 minutes shots of coffee being made!
I dont find him to be negative, just real. He dont give a fck about ya feelings.. just like most construction workers.
Yes. No music, and No BS intro. His voice is music enough.
I don’t know where you’re getting persistent negative character.
I lost my dad mid last year from a head injury, 1 year away from his 35 year union carpenter pin at Local 270; and with him went decades of knowledge I never got the chance to learn and build with my old man.
We just closed on our second home, one we wanted to gut and remake our own. And, if it wasnt for your channel I dont think I'd ever be up to the challenge. Hoping to make my old man proud.
I hope this doesn't sound weird, just wanted to let you know the impact your channel has had on my dreams of carpentry work going forward without a side kick.
Thanks for the comment, that was nice to read. I miss my father as well, I wish he could c me as I’ve gotten older. Best of luck on the new place and b sure to take ur time with it. Make ur pops proud and do it right...cheers!!
Old man take a look at my life, I’m a lot like you were ……
I’m in the same situation, sort of. Lost my father and took over his house. Unlike yours, my father was NOT a handy man, so here I am, remodeling and renovating on my own. This channel has been tremendously helpful during this process (as well as Ben from Vancouver Carpenter).
I just wish they’d talk about the US equivalent of the products they use, since I’m down here in the States. It’s a head scratcher sometimes.
@@eyespy3001 same, I'm in Illinois. Guys like us lean heavily on these big UA-cam channels, they are invaluable. I hope they truly can see that, coming especially from guys in situations like us.
Lost my dad in December to a snowmobile accident. He was an incredibly experienced GC who was my mentor for many things. Hurts every day, miss him like crazy. Not only was he the best mentor anybody could hope for, but he was an amazing dad and a loving husband. A true role model. We were going to do a huge renovation together, and he died right before we were due to start. I've been watching Jeff's videos because I can't just text my dad and ask for advice anymore, he's been such a help. I'm sorry for your loss, but I'm very thankful for your comment. Also thankful for the effort Jeff puts into his high-quality videos.
Last project we did together (a few days before he died) was some concrete bollards to add required protection around a propane tank. Stupid simple project, but I'm so happy we got to do it. I'll forever look at those bollards and think of him!
Edit: also, your comment is not weird at all. Grown men loving and missing their dad is a good thing. Testament to his parenting.
I’ve been doing this for 20 years, this is the best mud explanation video I’ve seen yet. This man is spot on with everything he said here. Great video.
I am a plasterer not a dry wall finisher. But I do use drywall mud for patches because it sticks to paint without bonder. I use Durabond45, 2 Coats with fiberglass tape as the backer (if small enough to not need rock). Then Premix garbage mud in a bucket (all purpose) for the finish because you can edge it with a wet sponge once dry for blending without sanding(non setting type). I rarely even use a sanding sponge for any of the coats because I apply each coat as soon as the last one is dry to the touch but still wet enough to slide mud across. The fiberglass tape definitely helps with shrinkage. 45 minute set after mixing gives me about 30-35 minutes of application time before it starts to show its starting to set. Durabond also works well as a skip coat applied with a trowel over paint to retexture a smooth wall. (No sanding) If you want an awesome spackle get the dap 8x. It doesn't shrink and is ready to paint in 20 minutes, best stuff I've seen in 25 years. When I say it doesn't shrink I really mean that I've filled some pretty serious dents. Home depot pails are better to mix in now, I have a stack I've been mixing in for a long time. My paddle is a jagged b****** and still never have any problems. I use that same drill it's 15 years old.
I am building a homestead for my 3 kids and I right now.. I wanted to say thank you so much for just being you..
I just used Durabond on a plaster wall repair in my 1950s build home. Worked great. Wall has a similar toughness to the original areas around it. Used all purpose lightweight as a finish coat after.
Same. Used it to repair a 1960s plaster wall.
Same almost. It was a very rough stucco wall that they couldn't keep clean, on the waiters side of a restaurant kitchen . The hard sharp points kept shredding their cleaning cloths. I knocked of the points with a belt sander, applied Durabond, and smoothed it over as I went with a wet sponge. After a coat of white paint it looked great. A smooth bumpy texture like ripples on water.
Why didn't you just use plaster on the plaster wall, then finish coat of whatever compound?
I wish I would've known about this stuff when I fixed the plaster walls of my house after removing the wallpaper. I screwed in 1/4 inch drywall to the lathe and taped and put 45 minute mud on
@@bend4852this is a better solution imo vs using durabond done it both ways and if ur worried about being cheap use durabond if not use 1/4 drywall
I’m an apprentice carpenter and I’ve been asking the pro finisher a lot of questions about plaster and Sheetrock compound recently.
He mentioned durabond as a great option to connect plaster walls to Sheetrock in old homes if you have to remove for example a plaster ceiling or plaster wall and don’t want to replace it with more lathe and plaster.
Don't mess with the Zohan! Silky smooth!!
Knew it!
Don’t mess with the scrappy coco.
Love that film!!! In fact, I now know to brush my teeth with hummus! 😂
Thank you Jeff. I have watched hundreds of UA-cam DIY videos and you are one of three that I actually follow. Your easy-going, “don’t worry, you can do it” is refreshing.
Decades ago my father-in-law was a master electrician and jack of all trades. OMG, the most patient person I ever met. He taught me so much! I swear, I would not be able to perform any DIY without the memory of his lessons and attitude. You remind me of those qualities and I am very appreciative.
13:30 - dang, getting ready to paint my downstairs. I'm learning so much about what I've been doing wrong for 30 years. I'm a typical homeowner trying to repair all of the damage the kids caused while growing up.
Thank you so much for this breakdown! It makes it so much easier for my brain to process all of this information. I’m a single 28y/o female who just moved into a new house that had horrible smoke damage (nicotine tar absolutely caked onto every single surface, even the windows were sticky from it. I washed down the walls with TSP over 5 times in 1 bedroom and dark brown juice, looked like liquid tar, just kept seeping down the walls). I told my friend/landlord that there was no way I could live in this house because the previous tenants were there for 10 years and smoked NONSTOP. So he was kind enough to spend $7-8k to hire contractors to come in and rip the carpet, let me pick out whatever kind of flooring I wanted (I did luxury vinyl plank in a ‘White Oak’ color) throughout the whole house except for the bedrooms (bedrooms are a white, high pile fluffy carpet), clean/prime/paint the walls (using an odor/stain blocking primer), as well as knock down the texture on the ceiling, prime, and paint the ceilings. He also replaced my front door!
But even with all of that work that was done, there’s still so many surfaces that need redone. My first project has been my bathroom which had half textured walls in it. I removed the texture from the walls and found that it easily peeled right off because…. There was wallpaper underneath it! And then I found something strange - under the wallpaper, there’s wood paneling that isn’t in very good condition at all. So I was stressing out thinking I can’t paint this, I’m gonna have to wallpaper over it. But I’m not a fan of wallpaper and I’d rather have my bathroom all one color, opposed to half of it wallpaper with trim in the middle of the wall, then the top part painted a solid color. So I’ve been trying to educate myself on how to use joint compound, drywall mud, etc. to fill in the holes in the wood paneling and also smooth out the “grain” texture that the paneling has. My dad has never been in my life, my brother works 5-6 days a week and has his own life, I have no uncles or any men in my life to show me how to do this type of thing. I’m tackling this project tomorrow and I seriously can’t thank you enough for this video - now I know what NOT to do and what NOT to buy. You are so very appreciated, much more than you know! Thank you
Hi 👋 I’m in a similar boat as you. It’s nice to know I’m not alone in such a situation. I’m wishing you success as I wish the same for myself.
I'm so glad I found this channel. I JUST closed on my first house, but she needs some updating badly and while I'm ready to get my hands dirty, I definitely need guidance like this!
Welcome!! Cheers!
Have fun. My girlfriend and I bought an old farm house...man did it need some work. Learned a ton and the interior is a completely different home then when we bought it. Now, for the exterior 🤣
@karimonster find a different place to get ur info from. This guy is a joke giving bad advice. - an actual drywall finisher.
@@rnr4204 Get a job RNR !
@@markk518 apparently you aren’t bright enough to comprehend ‘an actual drywall finisher’. I own my own drywall company you putz.
Thanks Jeff! I'm an 'old guy' that's been in vehicle maintenance for 50 years. Done LOTS of bodywork/body filler and sheet metal repairs and replacement. So much of your comments were humorous and I enjoyed them. You demonstrated some 'tricks' today I'll use in the near future in my home. Glad to see so much of what I have been doing from watching other videos and other true 'drywall' experts was on the right track. Now with your guidance here, I'll master the finer details! THANKS! 👏👏👏
Cheers Jesse, You got this!
I’m a homeowner, and I always use Durabond 90 for the first coat - I apply it thin so there’s still room to fill on top with Sheetrock 90. I’ve NEVER had a joint crack. I really think it is worth using.
Thanks for the tip! Just wish they sold a smaller bag for crack repairs. Update: Nvm they started selling them in smaller bags.
I get that you never had any problems with how you use Durabond, but the manufacturer specifically advises against using any setting type compound as a skim coat because it will dry before it hardens.
@@tonyc7352 When I say I apply it "thin" - I don't mean a skim coat. I mean for joints - the first coat on corner beads and inside corners. The reason for saying that first coat is "thin" is because you have to make sure it doesn't stick out beyond what you want for your finished surface because it is almost impossible to sand once it sets. If your base (wood/metal) construction is solid, you'll never have a crack because the Durabond is as strong (or stronger) than the drywall itself.
@@jaireidca Okay, I see how that is not thin like a skim coat, I mistook your description. I do like using Durabond, (and regular setting compound) too. I've used it mostly for pre filling, deep fills or areas that are prone to moisture like drywall-return windows.
I just bought a house and the garage was only taped and mud... by a blind person. Before paint I have to go over every square foot of all surfaces. Thank you for this video, and all the drywall videos.
I'm in the exact same situation. I know it can be level 5 without tearing out the nasty tape. Good luck with yours, use a top coat after 2-3 coats of your choosing.
Awesome video. I'm living in a DIY small house. It's called a shed to house because they sell them rent to own sheds. I'm so glad I found your channel. Since I'm a 60 plus age lady I really need help. Now I can know What to buy when I get ready to do this dry wall mud. I have many tools from my dad and grandpa. Maybe I'll finally learn what they are lol. Much love from Texas.
ditto here...same age, female in Texas and doing my own projects.
Bought a house back in September, and I watched your entire drywall video series when I decided to skim coat my entire house (still in the middle of doing is since we really only work on the house on the weekend), and it really helped a lot!
You make it look so easy in your videos haha. But I found out that while the tips you gave really helped, you really have to get a feel for manipulating drywall mud. So I learned a lot from the mistakes I made myself (and I made A TON haha). (edit: I was considering doing a writeup of all the mistakes a beginner may make as a sort of warning for people haha. I think this would be different than pro tips, because pros like you wouldn't even consider all of the stupid stuff that a beginner like me did hahah)
For instance, one really annoying mistake I made was that I used different types of drywall mud on the same layer. When I first started skim coating, I didn't know how to prevent those tiny bubbles that turn into tiny holes. So I filled them with the 45 min mud mix, and that's when I learned that it's pretty much impossible to blend in the 45 min mud and all-purpose mud with sanding because they don't sand the same way with 45 min mud being almost impossible to sand haha. (btw, I learned that I don't really like using or need 45 min mud because 1) I'm not in a hurry to get projects done, and 2) I'm much better at sanding something to get a perfect shape and texture so I'd rather have the flexibility of a compound that is easy to sand)
So I pretty much just got it down to being acceptable and then just skim coated another coat on top with Topping compound (I was going to do two layers anyway, so it wasn't a big deal).
I sometimes rewatch the "How to Fix Any Drywall Mistake" just for entertainment haha. But I love that video because you really took the fear out of putting a hole in the wall.
Toss in a dab of dish soap to prevent the bubbles on the finish coat. Apply and remove opposite ways. Scrape previous bubbles if you sand then pockets will fill with dust and new cost over pockets won’t get good bond and will fall out and will need to coat again
Taping isnt easy, might be better to do the painting yourself and sub the taping
@@amilli092 I've actually grown quite competent at drywalling since I posted this 10 months ago =). Taping definitely wasn't easy when I first started, but as long as I remember the pitfalls to avoid (e.g. making sure to prefill), I've been able to get smooth walls without any blistering or cracking
So you wouldn’t mix muds on the same layer? My husband did the taping with 45 min mud and said he didn’t recommend because it takes so long to mix and get it perfect. So I got a bucket of the pre mixed all purpose to do the 2nd and 3rd layer. Haven’t started yet
@@dakotasnider2468 Oh, that should be fine. I'm talking about a scenario where you have to touch up one part of your premix skim coat. You won't be able to blend it into the rest.
Also, if you do need to patch up anything, and you use the same mud, don't press it in too hard. It'll compress the mud and that part won't sand as easily, and you'll run into the same problem. Hope that makes sense!
Love that you left in the video that you forgot to plug in the mixer.
Your children are the luckiest in the world to have a dad that knows alot !! Just finished my own basement thanks to you ! I never had a parent to guide me tru but your videos are awsome thank you man !!!
I love all purpose. That said, i'm used to it.
Keep your tape flat, and mix your finish coat with water so that it's thinner, and it's great with a hard finish that won't damage easily.
Great for residential - especially in high traffic areas.
I wish I had seen this before buying the small blue bucket. It's absolutely true: hard to sand, thicker than necessary and dries out easily if not using the entire bucket. The 45 minute hot mud is so much better. Thanks!
Best 23 minutes I ever spent on mud. I can now win every argument about why certain muds SUCK, when it comes time to sand. We have all noticed it, we all doubted ourselves because we havent gone to Mud College, but now we know.. that mud DID suck when I tried to sand it.
Thank you for all the information! As per your recommendation, it's "homeowner savvy" to clean the inside brim of the mud bucket; no crispy chunks in the finish, lasts almost forever!
I use Durabond 90 alot on plaster before a finish coat and alot on applying sheetrock to cinderblock or brick, after it has been waterproofed. Works great!
Oh my goodness. Where was this video ten years ago when I was doing my first diy job for myself? Thank you for posting this video. VERY helpful and I've since learned and use the pink stuff.
A few bags of Durabond 90 allowed me to save all of the plaster & lath in my house after a total rewire/replumb. Miracle product.
I went in knowing it sets up like concrete and I had absolutely no problems with it, even having never done any drywall or plaster before. Wet sanding is key
Back when I started there was no Easy Sand stuff, it was all Durabond. You did not want to make a mistake with it, let’s just say that!
Jessica Goodsell, shut your negative mouth, and get off Jeff’s channel if you’re so smart‼️
@@jk12428 How is he negative lol,. TAke your pills
Love the stuff. Really excels with prefill, crack susceptible joints, and taping/bridging massive gaps. I use it to wet shim drywall, kerdi, and backer board all the time. Get the 20 min, slap some on the studs, add just enough screws to pull the board straight, then in about 10 minutes finish it off. Laser straight walls and tile substrates.
@@danervin2530 I'm definatley gonna try that on my next project. That's a great tip!
I use durabond for prefilling, and i use all purpose heavy mud for skimming ceilings that are getting texture... i wet sand my hard edges and i get great results. If i was doing production work all purpose light all the way. My van has fix-all, 20lb bags of 5 minute mud, 45 minute easy sand, and all purpose heavy.
I find all purpose heavy mud to be great for texture as it doesn't scratch easily when i go back to sand it.
My
Hi, former joint compound formulation scientist here! Love the channel, it's helping me a lot with my kitchen reno!
Great recommendations all around. Some of the products are definitely not as easy as others for DYIers. Hard to sand products will have higher compressive and tensile strength, which are made for drywall contractors and manufactured housing. Ex: using the products you showcased, the Durabond would be used to prefill joints before the tape coat, patching holes with areas that receive high volume impact (like chairs hitting walls), or anywhere one might want added strength (outside corners).
I'm just a home owner fixing a poorly finished basement, and I gotta say Durabond is some awesome stuff. Use it where ever you need strength: big fills, floating out wavy walls, patching corners, fixing underfilled cornerbead. As for sanding, underfill with durabond (fill to 90-95%), then finish the rest will all purpose. I've screed out some walls that were so wavy I was debating whether I should rip out the drywall and plane/shim the studs. Instead I screed with Durabond using a technique that was probably closer to plastering, and then skim coated with all purpose.
I only use easy sand when time is an issue (5-minute or 45 minute) or a repair would shrink too much or take too many coats if I used pre-mixed mud.
Great video! Love the honest opinion. And like the scientist guy sez, if I need a super duty joint, repair, or base in a humid prone area I use durabond for the plaster content. I also use it for 100y old plaster repair. You are correct though, as you need to know it might as well be cement.
@@mattpeterson553 same thing here...in excess of 1/4” hollow spots that really could only be filled with Durabond as the bulk filler mud. But I’ve had some bond failures I cannot explain. I had previously skim coated over orange peel with AP (green), realized the area was really hollow, then tried 45”. Still needing more, I bought Durabond due to it being 25 lbs. and cheaper. It must have activated the original skim with AP because I had large chunks easily chip off revealing the orange peel which had been painted with latex. I went back with 45” to repair those spots and it’s really stuck.
Hey Joshua drywaller here. My father's been doing it for 30 years, green bucket to tape then dark blue to coat, easy sand to fill large cracks. My question is, the stuff that is harder to sand, is there any credence to the idea that the tougher stuff to sand is less likely to crack? We still are not sure. Sometimes I think the tougher stuff is more brittle, and in new construction may be likely to split all your joints as your framing moves and settles. Good application seems to be paramount but I would guess there's performance differences between these products right? Maybe?
It's why I'm even scouring youtube for the answers lol
This was SO helpful! First time homeowner just trying to fix a bad job done in my builder grade house.
Thanks for the great tips on the process of removing lathe and plaster and replacing with drywall so I will have lots of mudding to do
Good luck!
Wow, thanks for posting. I thought I knew enough about this stuff, but your presentation is truly a god level knowledge base, thanks.
"Smooth as Silk": from a 2008 Adam Sandler movie named, Don't Mess With The Zohan". And thanks so much for the advice - extremely helpful.
"I just want to make people silky-smooth!"
The durabond much like paster cures rather than dries, its best for areas that get hit or have excess moisture issues. It wont turn back into mud from humidity.
Love the idea of the hawk over the bucket so simple but so useful. Definitely not for beginners but I wouldn't use anything but Durabond 90 for taping and the initial coat over the tape. We live in a 220 yr old house where everything is always shifting and it never cracks.
Back at Christmas Time... 3 days before Christmas to be exact the date... a stain showed up on our Kitchen ceiling. I watched many of your You Tubes on repair and MUD. On thing I did differently I bought a Wifi fiber optic camera (that I paired with my iPhone) from Amazon drilled a hole in the ceiling to find the leak. I'm glad I did that because the leak was a foot away from where I would have made the cut in the ceiling, the leak ran along a seam and fooled me about where it truly was!!! My wife was all for me having a professional do the work. I have done mission work in orphanages in Mexico (ten years) so I have done everything form Plumbing, electrical, roofing and sheetrock... but to tell you the truth I learned so much from you videos on Sheetrock. I'm a "Hot Mud Guy" now, when I got through following your tips; using the Zip Wall, mixing my own 45 minute mud and watching you move the trowel. I came a way with a perfect ceiling patch... last week we finally painted the ceiling and when you wife says... "I'm impressed with you work!" As far as I'm concerned that's a credit to your videos on repairing. The Zip wall kept all the dust in and my wife was most impressed with that, especially when I dropped the plastic walls onto the plastic liner on the floor wrapped everything up and into a plastic bag... That's what really impressed her... no mess! Jeff great video, great teacher... learned so much really appreciate your work!
Use durabond all the time to prefill large gaps before tape and standard mud. Helps tremendously in preventing cracks
Yes definitely, if you use premixed lightweight joint compounds as a first coat you risk hairline cracking. Using durabond or any other mix yourself joint compound might seem like extra work but it saves you time in the end because it will dry faster and harder.
@@TheRevolucas 1st coat never use lightweight premix cause then ur likely to have cracks going forth on ur joints. Use AP green lid (US mud) because there is more adhesive in it. B sure to let it entirely dry though b4 u recoat it with a lightweight which will make for an easier sand.
if you read the CGC/USG/manufacturers booklet then you are doing it as per the manual. many skip the pre-fill stage, but like many processes it is the necessary step if you have large gaps (>1/4") between your drywall sheets. You can use lightweight but durabond gives the best results.
Gents, appreciate your comments here, we’ve got some small cracks in walls and for some reason my wife thinks all men know how to do mud and taping. Your comments will help.
@@dschafer6634 tell her many can do it but few can actually make it look good. That’s the difference between a pro and a weekend warrior.
4:47 is why I love Jeff. Haha I was just at Home Depot and almost bought a small jug of the all purpose and didn't. One week later this video comes out. Impeccable timing!
Jeff: "You can't shoot a bullet through it..." Project Farm: "We'll test that!!!"
That comment made me cry laughing
The ultimate crossover.
Haha yess
Thank you!!! I just bought the brown bag from home depot because I thought it was more durable for high traffic areas lol I'm going to return it! 😅 thanks again
I am an advanced DIYer, currently finishing the basement. I used Durabond 90 to prefill all the gaps and embed the paper tape, mesh tape as well as inside and outside TrimTex corner beads. It shrinks less than the regular all purpose and gets rock hard. I did second and third coat with Sheetrock Plus 3 (it's lightweight all purpose) sold at Lowes in US.
Try using the D90 to fill voids and depressions, then tape and mud in a second operation.
I am using Durabond90 this weekend to repair deep cracks in my plaster on lath home, as well as plaster that popped off shared concrete wall (semi-detached house.) DB90 fills larger voids, dries hard and doesn't crack. I really like this product for building up the base coat and repairs, then topcoat it with Sheetrock45, which is sandable.
@@stephenholland6328 Good tip thanks. I was thinking the same thing. i use fix it all from home depot. It dries literally in 10 minutes and gets rockhard. If somebody punched a hole in the wall, you could use fix it all to fill it by itself. Just make sure to feather it before it dries. Otherwise you're going to be standing rock, lol.
@@paulmarentette5346 - same here. Using D90 for plaster repair.
That durabond 90 is for pre-fill before taping. We use The Dura bond in new construction it helps with settling cracks.
I like to use the powder on the first coat and then use Plus 3 on the final coats, almost no sanding, just have to knock down ridges and feather. I also like using the vacuum sanding attachment that Hyde tools sells that goes on any shop vac.
great advanced technique!
Awesome!!! Didn't know that existed! Tysvm for the comment!!!
Like the hot mud too. If you catch it right in the hardening process it feels like you are carving it flat. Keeps dust down and is quick. Sometimes it's so smooth I just finish with the hot mud.
I'm a simple man. Box of blue taping mud. Box of red all-purpose lightweight, and 45 minute hot mud. Paper tape for flats, butts, angles. And fibafuse for detail work. If something else is required I obtain as necessary.
Perfect timing. I'd just been thinking I might not be using the right mud, but I pressed ahead anyway.
Glad I could help!
@gareth don’t listen to this guy. He’s a DIY hack giving bad advice.
my system, as a non professional, has come down to 2 products. I use the dry 20 or 45 minute powder for my base taping/patching with fiberglass tape. Then I use premixed boxes of what's called Plus 3 for my texture and everything else. I add about 2-4 cups of water to each box, depending. The plus 3 doesn't shrink, and is easy to sand. Essentially it creates a 2 coat system. I tape and patch with the 20/45, then fill/level and texture at the same time with the plus 3. Done.
EXACTLY! this is a true patch person!!!!! get it done, you may not be a pro but your doing it like a pro. i have been Drywaller for 30 years and you my friend spelled it out to the "T". one thing i add is topping MUD to my finished patches or coats due to its Non Shrinking characteristics so its smooth as butter.
@@Ty-hq8pm Well, it's gone beyond patches. I'm remodeling 2 homes right now. So a combination of new drywall from gutting some rooms, knocking out walls, repairs, and I'm hand applying a custom texture everywhere because I'm sick of looking at the knocked down orange peel spray texture. It's labor intensive covering every wall/ceiling surface by hand, compared to spraying, but I really like the texture I've come up with. I tried the general purpose, but it would take 2 coats to cover the existing texture since it shrinks. The plus 3 has worked great for me since it doesn't shrink, allowing a 1 coat combo fill/level/texture coat. They don't sell topping mud where I live.
@@AnAbortiveRomance ya all purpose all the way for the initial coats to get coverage and fill in the deep spots. hand textures are tough, i do alot of what i call skip trowel which resembles exterior stucco but i use topping mud with silica sand and turns out sweet, and then stomp brush textures are always fun. keep up the great work because your end piece will bring great satisfaction my friend
I am renovating my laundry room. It also houses my HW tank and Furnace. Original floor was installed in the 70's. I ripped out all the old studs and rebuilt the back wall with an indent to recess my W&D. This weekend I am taking out the W&D to install all drywall and then floor. I have done a lot (I mean A LOT) of DIY projects over the years. I have always used 'all purpose'... NEVER AGAIN!!! thank you for this video. I spent many hours frustrated and angry at myself because I thought I was always mixing the mud wrong. My walls always needed to have 3, 4 or 5 sandings. People @ HD kept telling me it was the right mud and I must be doing something wrong. HMPF!!! Now I know it wasn't me. I bought the 90, you suggested... Damn! SOOOOO much better (and a lot less sanding). Thank you Jeff!!! Happy I joined your channel and love to see all your videos. Future Video Req.: I am dividing a room that has a 12' vaulted ceiling. Found a weird 'support' beam inside one wall (attic is behind the wall). They tripled the studs above the cross-beam (to the peak) but intalled ZERO support directly below the peak under beam. YIKES! makes no sense! Any chance you have something taped regarding my situation? Thank you so much :-)
I’m not big fan of sanding but when i do it I use a vacuum with long hose with sanding kit.Thank you for sharing.Have good weekend
I bought the durabond, got halfway through my job, your video popped up. As soon as you said bondo, my heart sank. I bondoed a car at 16. What a job! Looking forward to sanding now!!!
I use the Durabond 90 on the corners and frame around my cased openings and arched openings (doorways without doors) as it provides a very hard surface that prevents damage when moving furniture (or wheelchairs, especially) through the opening.
great idea, I use Durabond 90 for plaster cracks no need for tape. who is this bozo he knows nothing about all purpose i use it for taping and bed coats. this last job i did someone didnt glue the board and i had no cracks using all purpose green bucket. it has the most glue from my experience try ripping the tap it will leave half the tape.
Smart move!
Awesome instructor/teacher. I'm hooked, watch your videos everyday and started doing some drywall work. It's funny because every response is " oh no, that's years and years of work. you'll never get it." My work may not be perfect but getting better and now that I'm watching this channel I'm stoked to learn something new. Thanks for sharing the knowledge.
I love this guy! I've done all my home Renovations just learning from him
Jeff i’m your new, students, your lesson here, are really useful to many, may the good Lord give more blessings…
I love all this information! You do such an honest, awesome job of breaking this down, it is literally as funny as it is informative!
Glad it was helpful! Cheers!
Too bad he doesn’t know what he’s talking about and giving bad advice.
Thanks Jeff! My first attempt at drywall finishing looked more like a Jackson pollack painting than a drywall finish job. I looked more like a living paper Mache man that a real person. However, you have taught me so much, made my home projects so much easier that today, I'm actually doing acceptable work. Fair warning to all, Jeff makes it look easy, fast and clean. Don't expect the same results but do not get frustrated because the techniques take a while to master (at least for me). Thanks again Jeff and have a profitable day!
The pink stuff is polymer based so it flashes like crazy when used on drywall. Its more for nail holes in wood bet even then im not a fan. Light weight spackle is way better imo
Totally agree.
@@jpitt916 I find the extreme lightweight has a bit of elasticity so its good for finish carpentry related filling (im a carpenter so I do a lot of baseboard and casing). I rarely do drywall repairs and when I do i never use it for that unless im only filling a tiny hole like one that a picture or something would leave. Anything more then that I usually use sheetrock 5.
What does flashing mean?
@@kwiknikk after painting, when you look at the wall from a certain angle (especially when light is casting down it) the patch will be easy to see because the patched area will be a higher sheen then the rest of the wall (in this case it is caused by the polymer contained in the dry dex).
@@nicholaserkelenz6431 that explains why my satin paint was high gloss in certain areas when I first moved in my 🏠! Thanks for the info!
Thank you for this video. I was one to buy the wrong mud for my first go. I am scarred. Light All Purpose mixed and stored properly for the win. The product and it's prep is everything.
Man you remind me of Red Green for some reason, in a good way.
You just saved me a whole lot of frustration. I am skim coating my entire home and those small dried chunks were driving me nuts. Thanks for the tips.
I have used the All Purpose Drywall Compound 12L pale for my entire basement using both paper and fibre mesh tape and had no issues whatsoever... minimal sanding and wall texture after priming was great. 1200 sq ft. I would recommend it
cannot use generic mesh tape with pre-mixed compound, perhaps you can with fiber fuse branded tape?
I've been using the all-purpose for 40 years with no problem.
Except lately, after a couple of months, I find large amounts of BLACK MOLD!
Jeff, you are simply the best for teaching when it comes to drywall info! Keep it up! Trois-Rivières, Quebec. 😉
Why does USG confuse us down in the states? Green lid HERE is the heavy all purpose. Blue lid (plus 3) is the lightweight compound.
Agreed
Best combo to use as well. The green lid is for taping. Has alot of glue in it. Plus 3 sand down the best and quick
@@BerryMcCaulkiner859 thank you for that. Save me alot of time ferreting that out from various videos
@@BerryMcCaulkiner859 That's exactly what I am doing. Using the green lid for taping and first layer of screws. Blue lid after that. No sanding of that all-purpose mud. Added a whopping $16 to my project. And a little exercise carrying the bucket upstairs.
What do you use for texture?
I use all purpose for taping only use paper tape and use +3 light weight to bed and finish and i only use usg manufacture. On a small job i just use +3 light weight
You're making me want to go mud some walls. Unfortunately, I have a house that I am still stripping lath out of and am probably five steps away from installing drywall in at the moment.
Durabond is really nice when u are worried about cracks or even plaster repair before u skim it
The durabond is a great product to use as a filler for areas that have major gaps between joints more that 1/2" or more prior to taping (you could also use the concrete filler for that to). It prevents major cracking at joints. The all purpose (or heavy) in the green box/bucket, has more adhesive applied to it which makes it ideal for taping, but it is harder to sand, takes a lot longer to setup and typically shrinks a lot. So it's only good for taping. But like you said, the best product to use by far is the light weight all purpose cuz it's easy to work with and sands easily. You can also use the light to tape with, but you should us an adhesive additive to it assist the tape with adhering better. I like using the light weight for bigger areas, but I prefer to use the hot mud (easy sand 45) because you don't have to wait so long before you can coat it.
All this time I have been cursed with trying to sand a proper finish on my patch jobs. I have used nothing but that blue premixed pail. 🤪 Thank you for all the detailed content you provide.
Don’t know if you mentioned this Jeff, but if you use water used to clean tools that you used to apply hot mud to mix a new batch of mud it will shorten the work time significantly. Have to use fresh water not contaminated with previous hot mud.
Thank you for your honesty and forsight
LOL 😅 I've always bought the pink purely because it was pink. It's worked well every single time too. 💗
The all purpose drywall compound in the US (green lid) is really easy to sand and comes in 3 sizes. And the "easy sand" quick set is much much harder to sand
Facts!! Never had a problem sanding AP in the states. I don’t know y ppl r hating on dust control either because if u compare dust control to AP or plus 3 the amount of dust in the air is significantly less hence the name dust control. Ppls expectations in having no dust is unrealistic from the start. If u watch the amount of dust in dust control that falls to the floor versus any other mud u can very easily c that this is where the dust goes as opposed to the air
@@borys444 yeah very true! I always know when someone is BSing their level of experience on a job when they say "why dont we just use easy sand" for the final coat....clearly not realizing its near impossible to sand.
Even as a homeowner, i've drywalled a lot and used Durabond 90 to imbed my fiber mesh tape. In fact, i like to keep my drywall panels seperated by an eight of an inch or so and push in the Durabond in between before I apply my mesh then carefully skim over the mesh tape. That helps ensure no future cracks in my estimation. Durabond is like cement, and is what ensures a strong base underlying finish.
Jeff, In the US the first one you talked about has a green lid, yes it's garbage. But the White bucket blue lid is our equivalent of machine mud. It's called "lightweight" here. Dust control is grey bucket blue (if i recall right) lid. We're lucky that joint compound still comes in buckets here. It's my favorite source of buckets (even if they're not quite 5 gallons).
Thanks for the info Nick. Good top see I wasn't crazy about that cheap mud. Cheers!
@Cozy It says you can on the bucket, but I think bedding the tape would be better with one of the fast-sets or the green lid all-purpose heavy.
Ah, this is what I've been looking for - the stateside conversion table. Thanks!
I've used the small premix green lid for years and it works great.
we used that durabond on old houses for lathe and plaster walls it is a good base coat for filling in a patch then putting the finish compound over it . we also discovered that you shouldn't scrape any into a sink it will harden in your drain
True!!!
Honestly, I like the pre-mix for finishing the drywall (my walls are smooth). It thins easily, and I never have an issue with little nuggets in the mud. I always seem to find the one or two nuggets in the ready-mix stuff, which leaves that drag mark EVERY TIME
I just pick them out and smoothen the surface.
He is just great - not pretentious, helpful and empowering!
Another informative, honest video! You have made my trips to the big box stores so much easier.
Glad it was helpful! Cheers!
Jeff's videos are silky smooth. You don't mess with the Jeff.
Another great video Jeff. Everyone should watch this if your going to do drywall as a DIY’r.
Spent years as a general home repair business owner learning the hard way. And that included listening to some so called experts. Wish I had your brain to pick years ago. Wisdom comes with time and experience. These terms are often mutually exclusive however.
Thanks for explaining! Been doing diy bootleg drywall for decades here and there and always use easy sand or whatever I have laying around then end with spackle. I've used hot mud, but it's more stressful (like concrete) so usually don't. Really like how you summarized the products all in one. Thanks
I took down a popcorn ceiling and... they had used durabond for patches in some places. First time I'd encountered the product and I didn't know what it is. Before i figured out I could never get it off, I had damaged a lot of spots of the paper nearby. I eventually got it fixed but now I have to feather down all those patches and then skim coat the whole ceiling to get it smooth and even. I agree, durbond just creates new problems down the line.
Jeff, I just finished my last application of mud on a bathroom renovation project. I wish this came out sooner. Working with it has been so frustrating and this video showed me why. Thanks.
came here because the bucket stuff made me think i was doing something wrong, often pin holes or lines.
I friend of mine who is a professional builder recommended Durabond 90 for plastering around my washroom sink. I have a concrete wall behind the sink with a thin plaster and several coats of old paint that were applied when the wall was keeping damaged every few years from accidental splashing water on it. He said if you don't want your wall to be ruined from water splashing don't use compounds that can be sanded. The challenge he said is applying it smooth and even without sanding.
Jeff, I have a suggestion. Can you add text over-lays on your videos... like what people do in Powerpoint. I just want to see the main key points that you are talking about. For example at 5:48 to 6:00. I know this adds time into the editing but helps stress out what you are discussing.
I worked at a hospital and we used the Durabond 90 in the inpatient psych ward. It had to set fast and if it was not rock hard the patients would dig it back out.
Dollar Store spatula are great to help clean up buckets at the end of the day and they also work great for cleaning out the paint cans and trays.
Great tip!
One thing he seems to forget to mention is that while he recommends many of the "hot mix" drywall muds, they are less forgiving for homeowners who aren't "mudding experts". This is because mix-it-yourself muds are much harder to sand making your life very difficult if you don't know how to feather mud, or apply it perfectly. If you are like many homeowners and overapply mud, can't apply it smoothly, or can't feather an edge stick with all purpose premixed. Otherwise you'll be sanding forever.
Dy r tutyutisr re wztstzzztztzttzzuzd
Tidy press zoom room stizysddpocofffuffcuucf
I hahah hykhhb
Hjh
Finding CGC Red total is good for first coats. Then CGC ultralight for 2nds and 3rds. Always into advice.
This was really great! Thank you for the right information. I’ve had bad experiences with both of the blue and purple lid buckets already. Thankfully they were applied in the area where the wall isn’t visible.
Cheers Misha!
@misha half the things this guy said were wrong. If you want to learn about drywall, go watch some videos made by someone that’s actually in the trade. This guy’s a DIY handyman hack.
Surreal timing: I was standing in the drywall section today deciding between them for patching some cracks in my 70s home.
Very helpful, and entertaining. Love the way you don’t edit out bloopers like inverting the hawk and mud falls off. Just explain it and move on,
Regarding why durabond is made (the presenter said he didn’t understand why it’s produced at all), it is for prefilling joints prior to tape. In certain areas, especially like seattle where there is a lot of moisture… the wood framing can expand and contract, causing cracks in the drywall joints over time. The durabond “locks” the sheets in place to provide a stronger foundation for subsequent coats and ensure no cracks for years to come. It also helps to prefill large gaps in sub-par hanging jobs.
“Sick of having to repeat myself” dad energy
Durabond I believe is a high glue concentrate that is made for plaster applications. Pro mudders will use because they are experts at using it. Also the green pale sold here in the U.S is to have higher glue concentration according to my coworker that did dry wall for a living per sheet. He like to use it for conners and use 90 or 45 on his other joints that don't have high traffic contact.
Hey Jeff, thanks for another great video! I've been watching you for a few years and really appreciate all the great information you pack into these tutorials. Two questions:
1) I've always bought the setting type powders (45 and 90) since it's convenient to always have around and it lasts for years. That said, there seems to be something to the machine mud in terms of consistency and not having to worry about it setting up so fast. Is there such a thing this in a powder form? It'd be nice to have something on hand that didn't have a hardener mixed in.
2) You mentioned that the paper tape should not be used with the setting type compounds. I've never heard this before - is that really true? Care to elaborate? I just did a bit of reading and while I can verify that fiberglass tape should not be used with machine mud, I was not able to find anything that indicates paper tape should not be used with the setting type powders.
I use durabond 90 to prifill joints and bad drywall that has gaps before i tape... it helps to prevent cracks later on.
I almost exlusively use the all purpose pail mud you don't like for repair work as its convenient, i get the pail, add water, mix in the pail in 1/3s with a knife and go... I don't sand until after my final coat, and very lightly sand just to feather edges... I've found many people today don't work clean or precise, which results in entirely waaaay too much uneccessary sanding being done. Your technique to get the box mud into a pail is perfect, no mess, better to have the mud on the wall than your clothes and the floor.
Hi Jeff. Great vids. Best d.i.y channel on UA-cam. Awsome information and demonstrations. Brilliant! Looking forward to more. Take care and stay safe. 🇬🇧👌👍😊
Thanks, will do! Cheers!