I think i'd use a rubber scraper. mix the JB weld with a stick then spread it with what they use to put on body putty. I just think you'll get a cleaner, smoother outside patch, less drag
Great job on this repair. Drilling the end of of the cracks creat relief holes. Not sure if you knew this but, round patches are a great patch because corners create stress points. When creating patches in aircraft structure, square patches have a radius or rounded corners. I would recommend installing a few rivets on the inside perimeter to better secure the patch an feom the outside to increase the life. An added piece of aluminum on the outside, known as a doubler would be even stronger. Overall, great job.
FINALLY! Thank you for speaking up and showing others how to PROPERLY perform this repair. Great job! I posted a very similar video years ago and was attacked for such a "flimsy" repair...this is THE BEST WAY to repair a small aluminum boat leak if caused by fatigue cracks, splits or minor-moderate hull breaches.
Needed this video 3 months ago for my jon boat after I tried my second pack of alumiweld rods, warping the bottom hull from overheating from the mapp gas and the still leaky crack. We’ll done sir, the guy from Muggy Weld on the phone with me will thank you for this lol
Great Video!! A simple drilled hole CAN be brazed. A spider crack like what he is dealing with is cracked because it is under stress and takes a fix like this. What he is doing will definitely work and then some!!
Just traded a laptop for a 1969 seaking has atleast 3 cracks that I know of I was about to get braising rods but this seems alot more sturdy thanks man
Thank you for sharing this video! I have a crack right along the seam of the back of the boat, just below the transom (16ft foot aluminum). Not sure if I should drill a hole at the end of this crack, as it's right along the seam, where the back meets bottom? I wish I could attach a picture... Would love to hear any thoughts.
Great video! For what it's worth, the Loctite PL Marine that you used is more like 3M 4200 than 3M 5200. Loctite PL has same hardness rating as 4200, and 5200 has a higher hardness rating (less flexible, but a stronger bond). Have you used both 5200 and Loctite PL to do this and had equal success? I've got a leak that is under the end of a rib on my boat. I really like the technique you are showing, but will have to remove the rib to do it. A little worried about doing that.
I have had great success with those brazing rods they are cheap, fairly simple to use, and have stood the test of time when done properly. But I feel the patch is way better for this scenario. Different tools for different problems
Ok. If you are going to say use 5200 (a 3M product) don't show a Loctite product. Also, 3M 5200 is not very flexible once fully cured. I would also recommend checking out another very popular channel where he puts the most common brazing rods to the test. There are 3 brands I would use for this repair over an adhesive patch and one of them can be found a harbor freight.
Yeah Ive used 5200 in the past and I misspoke about this, my bad. I disagree, doesn't matter the brand, if the aluminum hull isn't melting with the braze rod the bond will never be great on a flat surface. I learned that twice the "hard" way.
Yes, but legit aluminum welding on a 1/16" boat hull is incredibly difficult, and 99.9% of people are unable to do that. This video is for the rest of us.
Thanks for making this video, I just bought a 1982 Lowe 1648 yesterday. Tons of work that needs to be done. It had a 60 horse evinrude and a jack plate. Left 4-1/2 inch holes. Would you suggest this to fill those holes like this, jb weld or should I braze them solid?
You mean a circular hole with a 4.5 inch diameter? I've never fixed a hole that large so I'm not qualified to answer that, sorry. This video is intended for small holes and cracks
@@FishinOnaMission you should not do this on the outside of the hull. The patch could catch on a rock/debris and rip off, possibly jerking the boat in that direction.
@@FishinOnaMission Not sure if I misunderstood your comment but I took what you said as asking if you could invert the patch, with the aluminum and 5200 on the outside.
Yep always try to keep one hand clean forsure! Your phone wont ring all day until you start messing with stuff like that lol. Then everybody calls at the same time it seems.😂
No. I don't see why that wasn't a good idea? If I mixed it on a paper plate or something I'd have to use and then waste the plate and some sort of mixing stick. By doing this the only extra waste was my gloves, which would have been thrown away anyways. And I still got enough JB Weld to apply a solid patch.
Mix on cardboard... then use a flat edge to apply... mixing str8 into ur hand won't be a consistent mix, and you waste a majority of the product in ur gloves
Okay, but how to fix a broken corner support/ rear, left corner of the boat. I am the 2nd owner of my boat. Whoever had before I did either backed it into something, or someone hit the boat. The seam is broken, and corner cap "welded" is just gone it was broke off when I got it. How do I fix that?
Just tried braising with alumiweld sticks and i cant get the metal hot enough. The boat is just a giant heat sync depiste using two torches together. It looked like the braize took but i filled the boat with water and it still leaks like a seive. I tried to pull the old solder out to try it again but i ended up just ripping a larger hole in the boat. Id try a poropane oxygen torch but that much heat may just blow a biggger hole through it. Ill try this next. Trouble is its on one of the ridges that run the length so itll be hard to get flat.
You're working with newer and more advanced aluminum the boat he was working on looked like an old alumacraft from the 50s or 60s and that old aluminum can't be welded successfully
No dont do this unless aluminum is totaly cracking 5200 marine sealant will last your lifetime but the real fix is brazing Not welding its very easy with mapp gas and rods from harbor freight Im a very seasoned tourist torney and commercial fisherman This kind of repair is for aluminum corrosion problems
I completely disagree. Braze rods do not adhere well to a flat surface because you are not melting the hull of the boat. The repair in this video is 1) more waterproof and 2) more durable.
I see your point, but what I was trying to convey is don't rely only on a rigid repair. The main patch is what I did on the inside. The outside JB Weld I added was just to protect that flaking metal from catching on stuff. It was not intended to waterproof
@@EngineeringHooksets I wasn't being very nice. I'm sure your repair is a good one. I just think brazing on the bottom would be more likely to hold up to abrasion and such. Thanks for taking the time to make your video.
Who are you to claim that brazed repairs aren’t going to work? I bought a bought years ago that had circular saw cuts in it because the previous owner thought it made a good plywood cutting platform. I brazed those gouges and holes closed with patches and aluminum brazing rods. I turned it into a jetjon and it rips through chop and waves all the time. Those repairs are still holding. No water gets into the boat from the bottom.
Who am I? Oh, just a guy that brazed 3 holes on my boat, and they all started leaked at some point. And no, I don't think I did a particularly bad job or anything. If brazed patches are working for you, you're probably not bumping your boat into any rocks or stumps. Brazed patches fail when the hull flexes
Yeah I would never put a bandaid on my boat if it's aluminum weld the aluminum and if you know how to use brazing rods you have the boat heated to the right temperature will suck the brazing rod down into the crack of the boat able actually Bond to the aluminum what you did is the same thing the previous owner did with the JB weld it'll work for a while but for someone like me who is putting a Bass boat floor and subfloor and my metal boat and I don't want to have to tear it apart to re-fix a leak when my silicone starts falling apart I will just weld aluminum
Think it depends on the boat. I agree weld is superior, but if the boat is full riveted, you run the risk of blowing out a seam seal by overheating it while welding. Heat sinks while welding help, but ya better know what you're doing.
@@EngineeringHooksets just browsing around on youtube for different tips and tricks and how tos, to refresh my mind and find new ideas on my daily diyer ability to work with different stuff lol
This guy has absolutely no idea what are you doing or talking about!! Brazing will work perfectly fine you just need to be smart enough to anneal the braze afterwards so if softer and flexible instead of hard and brittle🙄🤦♂️ but I bet this guy has zero formal education in welding, engineering of any kind of even a basic knowledge of metallurgy!! If you really wanted to do it correctly you would tig weld it! Only thing he did correctly was drill out the ends of the cracks....but even my 5 year old knows enough to do that🙄
You bet I have zero formal education in welding or engineering of any kind? First of all, why lump engineering in with welding, as if they're at all related 😂? Second of all, that's hilarious because I'm literally a geotechnical engineer.
I think i'd use a rubber scraper. mix the JB weld with a stick then spread it with what they use to put on body putty. I just think you'll get a cleaner, smoother outside patch, less drag
Yeah that's probably smart
Great job on this repair. Drilling the end of of the cracks creat relief holes. Not sure if you knew this but, round patches are a great patch because corners create stress points. When creating patches in aircraft structure, square patches have a radius or rounded corners. I would recommend installing a few rivets on the inside perimeter to better secure the patch an feom the outside to increase the life. An added piece of aluminum on the outside, known as a doubler would be even stronger. Overall, great job.
FINALLY! Thank you for speaking up and showing others how to PROPERLY perform this repair. Great job! I posted a very similar video years ago and was attacked for such a "flimsy" repair...this is THE BEST WAY to repair a small aluminum boat leak if caused by fatigue cracks, splits or minor-moderate hull breaches.
Thank you for the comment!
Needed this video 3 months ago for my jon boat after I tried my second pack of alumiweld rods, warping the bottom hull from overheating from the mapp gas and the still leaky crack. We’ll done sir, the guy from Muggy Weld on the phone with me will thank you for this lol
I'm glad it helped you! And yeah I feel that. The first time I repaired a leak I brazed too.
Great Video!! A simple drilled hole CAN be brazed. A spider crack like what he is dealing with is cracked because it is under stress and takes a fix like this. What he is doing will definitely work and then some!!
Just traded a laptop for a 1969 seaking has atleast 3 cracks that I know of I was about to get braising rods but this seems alot more sturdy thanks man
Good luck with your boat!
I hope to never have to use this but super informational! Great video, Matt.
Hope not. Thanks, Chris!
try a bondo plastic spreader for JB weld
Good tip
Thank you for sharing this video! I have a crack right along the seam of the back of the boat, just below the transom (16ft foot aluminum). Not sure if I should drill a hole at the end of this crack, as it's right along the seam, where the back meets bottom? I wish I could attach a picture... Would love to hear any thoughts.
Great video!
For what it's worth, the Loctite PL Marine that you used is more like 3M 4200 than 3M 5200. Loctite PL has same hardness rating as 4200, and 5200 has a higher hardness rating (less flexible, but a stronger bond).
Have you used both 5200 and Loctite PL to do this and had equal success?
I've got a leak that is under the end of a rib on my boat. I really like the technique you are showing, but will have to remove the rib to do it. A little worried about doing that.
I used 5200 when I bolted on my transom board, I got them confused in this video. I have not used 5200 to repair cracks like this, though.
Looks like a nice patch. Should be good to go! Team Brazing Rods be gettin clowned up in here.
Lmao
I have had great success with those brazing rods they are cheap, fairly simple to use, and have stood the test of time when done properly. But I feel the patch is way better for this scenario. Different tools for different problems
Nice Job Young Man.
Nice job
I'm going to use a putty knife and plate when I mix and apply my weld.
Haha yeah thats probably smarter than what I did
Great video. Got my subscription with this one.
That's how you do it. Awesome.
Ok. If you are going to say use 5200 (a 3M product) don't show a Loctite product. Also, 3M 5200 is not very flexible once fully cured. I would also recommend checking out another very popular channel where he puts the most common brazing rods to the test. There are 3 brands I would use for this repair over an adhesive patch and one of them can be found a harbor freight.
Yeah Ive used 5200 in the past and I misspoke about this, my bad. I disagree, doesn't matter the brand, if the aluminum hull isn't melting with the braze rod the bond will never be great on a flat surface. I learned that twice the "hard" way.
Creo es más fácil y más seguro instalar nuevos remaches en los orificios! No creen
Welding is still the best way to fix. Aluminum rod for Aluminum boat
Yes, but legit aluminum welding on a 1/16" boat hull is incredibly difficult, and 99.9% of people are unable to do that. This video is for the rest of us.
Would it be worth using an etching primer?
Man I saw this just in time I would have been trying to learn how to braise and probably done more harm than good.
thank you
Glad I could help you out! Gl with the repair
Thanks for making this video, I just bought a 1982 Lowe 1648 yesterday. Tons of work that needs to be done. It had a 60 horse evinrude and a jack plate. Left 4-1/2 inch holes. Would you suggest this to fill those holes like this, jb weld or should I braze them solid?
You mean a circular hole with a 4.5 inch diameter? I've never fixed a hole that large so I'm not qualified to answer that, sorry. This video is intended for small holes and cracks
@@EngineeringHooksets no, I mean 4 holes a 1/2 inch in diameter where the jackplate was bolted on
I would braze them
this is the best video so far. i know what il do now.
Thanks for the comment!
@@EngineeringHooksets can i do the side of the hull where the water line is? And the lower back where the transom is?
@@FishinOnaMission you should not do this on the outside of the hull. The patch could catch on a rock/debris and rip off, possibly jerking the boat in that direction.
@@FishinOnaMission Not sure if I misunderstood your comment but I took what you said as asking if you could invert the patch, with the aluminum and 5200 on the outside.
Yep always try to keep one hand clean forsure!
Your phone wont ring all day until you start messing with stuff like that lol.
Then everybody calls at the same time it seems.😂
Always!
you are the first person i have EVER seen mix that 2 part epoxy with hands. are you Canadian, and/ or are you Polish? lmao
No. I don't see why that wasn't a good idea? If I mixed it on a paper plate or something I'd have to use and then waste the plate and some sort of mixing stick. By doing this the only extra waste was my gloves, which would have been thrown away anyways. And I still got enough JB Weld to apply a solid patch.
@@EngineeringHooksets lol. great video. thank you again.
lol
Most polish people are significantly more intelligent and knowledgeable than any American
Good way to waste a lot of JB Weld.
?
Mix on cardboard... then use a flat edge to apply... mixing str8 into ur hand won't be a consistent mix, and you waste a majority of the product in ur gloves
Great info! Thx
use a stainless wire brush to avoid inbedding iron into the aluminum .
Good tip
Or brass
Okay, but how to fix a broken corner support/ rear, left corner of the boat. I am the 2nd owner of my boat. Whoever had before I did either backed it into something, or someone hit the boat. The seam is broken, and corner cap "welded" is just gone it was broke off when I got it. How do I fix that?
I do not know, sorry. You should probably take it to an aluminum welding shop.
Take it to a tig welder
Just tried braising with alumiweld sticks and i cant get the metal hot enough. The boat is just a giant heat sync depiste using two torches together. It looked like the braize took but i filled the boat with water and it still leaks like a seive. I tried to pull the old solder out to try it again but i ended up just ripping a larger hole in the boat. Id try a poropane oxygen torch but that much heat may just blow a biggger hole through it. Ill try this next. Trouble is its on one of the ridges that run the length so itll be hard to get flat.
Yikes. Did it end up working out?
@@EngineeringHooksets i just used that 3M marine sealant. Way easier to work with. I am not skilled with those rods at all.
Yes, thx, the patch was under my middle seat.
Glad I could help
Thats a…..an interesting way to prep and apply jn weld 😂
Lol
Mixing JB weld on with your hand is insane
We do a little insanity
What do u recommend to fix a leaking rivet on an aluminum boat?
Try this ua-cam.com/video/qKQak8ODaAg/v-deo.html
Ive never fixed a rivet but probably drill and replace with a new rivet + 5200 sealant
how is the patch working
@herb1959 fantastic. Doesn't leak a drop
@@EngineeringHooksets thank you. I have a alumacraft with a nasty hole to fix. I wish I could send a pic good weekend.
How do I know welding is the proper way. Because I work for Tracker boats in Bolivar, Mo.
Yeah okay because we all have the equipment and skills for aluminum welding 🙄🙄🙄
You're working with newer and more advanced aluminum the boat he was working on looked like an old alumacraft from the 50s or 60s and that old aluminum can't be welded successfully
Better way is 2 pieces of thin aluminum. 5200 between both and rivets around the patches holding them in together.
No dont do this unless aluminum is totaly cracking
5200 marine sealant will last your lifetime but the real fix is brazing
Not welding its very easy with mapp gas and rods from harbor freight
Im a very seasoned tourist torney and commercial fisherman
This kind of repair is for aluminum corrosion problems
my thinking as well
I completely disagree. Braze rods do not adhere well to a flat surface because you are not melting the hull of the boat. The repair in this video is 1) more waterproof and 2) more durable.
@@EngineeringHooksets yeah. Don't do it this way unless the aluminum is totally cracking. Kinda like your's I guess. 😂
You’re doing good until you mix the JB weld with gloves, not recommended by anybody
Exactly. I was like hmm good job until I saw the freaking glove mixing of the jb weld and using blue shop towels. WTF lol.
yeah wtf is this guy thinking
I would trust that patch without installing some closed ended all aluminum rivets
Well it's been working great ever since
Very good helpful to me. 25g subscribe must have some other good tips. Gd job.
Tells everybody, "Dont use a rigid repair, it wont flex and will pop off". Then uses JB weld. 🙃
I see your point, but what I was trying to convey is don't rely only on a rigid repair. The main patch is what I did on the inside. The outside JB Weld I added was just to protect that flaking metal from catching on stuff. It was not intended to waterproof
@@EngineeringHooksets I wasn't being very nice. I'm sure your repair is a good one. I just think brazing on the bottom would be more likely to hold up to abrasion and such. Thanks for taking the time to make your video.
That was big of you to admit that....could use more people doing that on the internet. :))@@beestoe993
Might consider using latex mechanics gloves next time.
You mean for the JB Weld? I think the gloves I used in this worked well enough. Sure I lost about 33% of the material but I still had plenty.
Life is so much harder when you don’t have a tig welder.
true
No sanding?😮🤐
Why would I sand it? The wire wheel is sufficient to remove paint, and a rough surface allows adhesive to bond better than a smooth surface.
The heck you doing with that JB
Just vibing
If you want it done the right way you would tig it! 😁
Yeah, welding is definitely the best way. But the truth is, on a cheap aluminum boat, its probably not worth paying someone $100/hr to fix a leak.
Who are you to claim that brazed repairs aren’t going to work? I bought a bought years ago that had circular saw cuts in it because the previous owner thought it made a good plywood cutting platform. I brazed those gouges and holes closed with patches and aluminum brazing rods. I turned it into a jetjon and it rips through chop and waves all the time. Those repairs are still holding. No water gets into the boat from the bottom.
Who am I? Oh, just a guy that brazed 3 holes on my boat, and they all started leaked at some point. And no, I don't think I did a particularly bad job or anything. If brazed patches are working for you, you're probably not bumping your boat into any rocks or stumps. Brazed patches fail when the hull flexes
i like the overall process for your fix, but those methods are fucking wild. just mix the jbweld with your hand? what?
@christofervandezande8853 why waste a paper bowl (or whatever other mixing surface)? It mixed fine the way I did it
So, your superior repair is to protect your sealant with metal instead of just using metal?
Please do not become a roofer.
I'm gonna go install a new roof on your house out of spite
Yeah I would never put a bandaid on my boat if it's aluminum weld the aluminum and if you know how to use brazing rods you have the boat heated to the right temperature will suck the brazing rod down into the crack of the boat able actually Bond to the aluminum what you did is the same thing the previous owner did with the JB weld it'll work for a while but for someone like me who is putting a Bass boat floor and subfloor and my metal boat and I don't want to have to tear it apart to re-fix a leak when my silicone starts falling apart I will just weld aluminum
Think it depends on the boat. I agree weld is superior, but if the boat is full riveted, you run the risk of blowing out a seam seal by overheating it while welding. Heat sinks while welding help, but ya better know what you're doing.
I sure as will not be doing this fix. Can't even mix epoxy! 😮
Relax bud, I was just trying to save using a paper plate. And the epoxy mixed just fine.
Why didn't you weld first
nah i rather use brazzing rod and sand it down and repaint with some gatorglide.
Sounds like you already know what you're doing, why are you watching youtube How-to's?
@@EngineeringHooksets just browsing around on youtube for different tips and tricks and how tos, to refresh my mind and find new ideas on my daily diyer ability to work with different stuff lol
Guys
Gals
Seems like the 5200 would keep you from bleeding if you cut your fingers on the aluminum.
Lol
I would have riveted it in if i was you
I'd TIG weld it.
That would be ideal, but the reality is most people don't have the equipment or skills to do that, so we gotta make due
😂
🤣
This guy has absolutely no idea what are you doing or talking about!! Brazing will work perfectly fine you just need to be smart enough to anneal the braze afterwards so if softer and flexible instead of hard and brittle🙄🤦♂️ but I bet this guy has zero formal education in welding, engineering of any kind of even a basic knowledge of metallurgy!! If you really wanted to do it correctly you would tig weld it! Only thing he did correctly was drill out the ends of the cracks....but even my 5 year old knows enough to do that🙄
You bet I have zero formal education in welding or engineering of any kind? First of all, why lump engineering in with welding, as if they're at all related 😂? Second of all, that's hilarious because I'm literally a geotechnical engineer.