A good trick for over tight bolts is to heat them with a blowtorch then quench fast with water. It's saved me countless times with really hard bolts, nuts and studs.
Vintage tinkering and thoroughly productive. Good stuff! Could it be that, just like the rest of us, even Hubnut is jolly capable when all the stars align portentously. You’re frequently much too hard on yourself. 87k people can’t all be wrong. 👍
Bend an inlet or exhaust valve at 90 degrees and put the keeper end in a bell housing bolt hole, the head of the valve locks into the flywheel ring gear, voila, engine prevented from turning, use a breaker bar with a piece of pipe over it to get more leverage on the crank pulley.
Good to see you getting stuck in. I suspect my gun may have done it, but they are also quite dear to buy (DeWalt DCH899 for anyone wondering). It undid 2CV bearing retainers (both the hubnut and the retainer itself) without a problem. However, even with this big rattle gun, using an impact socket makes a big difference to how the job goes. They're far tougher and design to repeatedly take the shocks from the persistent hammering
I had a Charade, one of the best cars I've ever had. My fault lousing up the brakes though, I put in regular brake fluid for hydraulic fluid that was also for the clutch.
I will give you a top tip. Remove spark plugs and stick some thick string inside the cylinders, one will do. This will allow you to lock up the engine and easily remove the crank pulley bolt without doing any damage to tools or the engine. Once bolt is loosened, simply rotate the engine the oppposite way slightly and retrieve the string.
In 15 years of working on pretty much every type of Army vehicle and all the different user unfriendly lubricants, I only ever wore gloves when the temperature was 10°C or less. So much easier and quicker to work without them.
A handy trick is to remove cylinder 1 spark plug and with the engine at BDC feed some rope down into the cylinder, then trun it to TDC (or close). When the rope compresses it locks the engine quite well and lets you get a power bar on the crank pulley bolt to loosen it.
Many Japanese vehicles use a torque + angle tightening technique that results in a stupidly tight bolt. I now have a flywheels stopper made from a segment of flywheel ring gear welded to a piece of angle iron which can be bolted to the bellhousing bolt positions.
Thank you! I'm super-grateful to you for posting this video and episide 5 detailing the water pump change for the Charade, as my garage (2 garages, actually, and counting...) have had trouble and it's booked into a third this week. Honestly, I feel like I should have it towed to your house so you and your wife can do it, haha! Until now, I knew nothing about car engines but I almost feel like I could do this myself after watching your step by step tutorial. I'm very grateful. :)
@@HubNut it sure can be, can't it! Since getting mine, I've had a new exhaust and clutch and I had to source them myself as garages struggle to get things from their regular suppliers, especially at normal prices! This water pump was the only one in the whole of the UK (of the correct dimensions) and cost a small fortune. My previous garage put one on that I got them off eBay but it wouldn't line up with the alternator belt so that just came off leaving me stranded in the rain and having to cancel a trip to Europe... Annoyingly this genuine and brand new Daihatsu branded one has got the housing attached which mechanic no.2 can't get off. Mechanic no.3 will see it on Friday. Keep your fingers crossed for me! It's a right saga! :D
I've got an ugga dugga exactly the same as yours, they're not bad but just don't expect too much from it. It's nice to see some progress on this nice little car. 👍
When hearing Ugga Dugga I thought it was some Australian slang, looked it up. Nice to get some new words I never heard of before. Beats school anytime, although I am 11 years older than Mr Hubnut.
Glad I'm not the only one less than happy with SGS, rather liberal with their descriptions and refused to upload my review as it wasn't 5* only 3* and I was even polite. Great progress and even quite tidy, bonus. Thank you.
Fantastic to see you getting stuck in again (as opposed to just stuck!), brings a smile to my face and some entertaining viewing after a day at work. Hope everything is going as well as it can be. Also having had a Jack Russell growing up, I can attest to the "disagreements"!!
Lovely to see the progress slowly but surely, taking your time and being clean and methodical is key! I can't wait to see the end result, the hard work will pay off. Advise, as you found out the shiny black impact sockets are thin walled, which is why they could shift the crank bolt, always use the proper impact sockets you've got and not the chrome sockets as you'll risk shattering them. I deeply suspect you enjoyed using your new tool and it will certainly save you money but giving you confidence in fixing more - hopefully proven once you've fitted the engine :)
Re Jack Russel issue, I totally sympathise. We're fostering a very nippy fox terrier puppy at the moment. Not to put too finer point on it, he's been nicknamed 'The Veloce Raptor' and I have the wounds to back that up. I do love Hubnut tinkering sessions.
proper tinkering at last, i got a lidl ugga dugga great for whipping off wheel nuts, can't wait to see this project sorted, especially the first run....smug satisfaction or despair ...make sure all seals are good don't wanna be doing leaks later
The power of an impact wrench is from the weight of the hammers in it not so much from the battery voltage, also an 18 volt unit will have 5 cells in the battery pack and so will the 21 volt unit, it is solely down to the marketing guys as to whether they round the voltage up or down Makita chose to use the lower figure. At the end of the day I have always found that air powered units are better but not as convenient as cordless, so having both is best.
A trick I have read but not had to use yet for locking the engine to break loose the crank pulley bolt. Find the piston at BDC and coil rope down into the cylinder until there is enough to stop it turning. The last time I loosened the bolt off I put the car in 5th gear and put the hand brake on. It loosened but the car was starting to move. Some guys put a wrench on the bolt and turn the engine on the starter to crack it. The impact drivers now make life so much easier. Good luck with the rest of it, despite the odd setback it seems to be going well.
indeed, standard practice on the old 740/760 and 940 Volvo's is to locate a socket on a breaker bar, lodge it on the frame somewhere and flick (JUST flick!) the starter to undo the crank bolt. Doing it up is just a case of the third stage of tightness....ok, I'll explain...1st stage is tight, 2nd stage is f***ing tight and 3rd stage is WCDTU, ("what ***t did that up?"). One reason I personally don't like ugga-duggas is some b'stard uses it on my wheel nuts and that's a bugga when you get a puncture on a dark night in the bluddy rain.
Well done; that was a daunting task but you got it done one bolt at a time. Replacing the water pump and cambelt has saved a lot of money compared to paying a garage to do the replacement with the engine in the car. ☮️
I worked for DPD for a bit, they were throwing TV's from the truck and smashing them onto the conveyor belt because of the time pressure. All the trucks had to be emptied during the night shift.
I'm a courier myself (though not for DPD) People have no idea the pressure drivers are under in the job, and what they're expected to do for how much they're paid. It gave me a lot of appreciation for couriers that I didn't have until I did the job myself. I suspect most people are like that.
Can highly recommend Milwaukee's M18 range of impact wrenches. I've had one of their largest for 5 years now, never been beaten. Although victory sometimes comes in the form of a sheared bolt instead.
@@MrOvershoot I changed the WHOLE front suspension on my Tigra Twintop after I did a dukes of hazzard up a hidden kerb in Bodmin Parkway station car park... Grrr. Anyway, I am no professional but with this thing was ripping through bolts like they were nothing, it took me 90mins to change everything. A re-alignment after and it felt like a brand new car. I do rate Milwaukee.
@@EdgyNumber1 Don't worry I also managed a full on spanner moment at Bodmin station on my bike in 2005 getting off the train from Looe I was about to ride off to Padstow on the Camel Trail but managed to ride into a flower bed and launch myself into 3 rose bushes. Worst thing was I had an audience of 5 school kids who took the piss mercilessly 🤥
Interesting that this engine is (I think) the forerunner to the Aygo/C1/107 engines. There must have been some overlap then, as there are still quite a lot of 55-plate Aygos and 107's in my area (older cars are everywhere in Exeter). Keep them coming. I'm learning a lot from these engine-swap videos. Well done HubNut.
Great to see more work. Sorry to hear about your family member passing. Not watched for a couple of weeks or so. Rotate the pulley twice as cam is at half crank rotation. Two turns on the crank.
If you do go looking for a more powerful impact wrench i do recommend the ryobi 18v range if the uk has them. Had my impact one for 6 years now without fault.
Ryobi stuff is definitely good, I like mine. They do end up costing you a fair whack though - 80 quid for a 4Ah battery for example 😳 Recently added an angle grinder to my collection, so happy to finally have a battery angle grinder. It's not a brushless one, but works well enough for what I need
HUBNUT, The most powerful ugga-duggas are _Milwaukee_ tools. _Milwaukee Fuel M18_ made mincemeat of a complete suspension replacement within 90 minutes. However don't use it for light work where a breaker bar will do. Its for heavy duty work. Such as subframe mounts, suspension, axles, gearbox bolts etc. I recommend their impact wrenches for lighter stuff
Flywheel locking tools are wonderful things. All you need is something that notches into the ring gear teeth and is held by one of the bellhousing bolt holes. Someone, somewhere must do a generic one. You are going to need one to tighten it up.....
@@HubNut It's a possibility but you have all the slop and play in the drive, brakes and shock absorbtion system to cope with. Guaranteed to be more of a pain to get enough swing on the spanner than doing it when the motor is out and locked. If your engine stand ever turns up, locking the flywheel on that would be comparatively simple. Just a prybar in the teeth and levered against the mounting bolts, or some other protuberance, and held by your friendly neighborhood gorilla. You will even be able to get a precise torque figure....
Regarding impact drivers. Once nightmare hub bolts to remove from an old Audi 80 B4. Was told they'd be a nightmare. Went to an old pal's garage and borrowed his 3/4" drive impact driven off a compressor with a massive 250litre or so air tank. Dead easy. Loads of torque there. Sometimes you need the old ways, I'm afraid.
currently waiting for new subframe to chassis bolts for my zafira after swapping out the gearbox, little buggers had to be cut out, i love working on cars 🙄 quite gutted when the video ended was enjoying watching someone else suffering instead of me :)
Fab to see some progress! I'm keen to have a proper impact wrench in my life, but have found whilst perusing the cheap clones, that they have significantly lower torque than the originals that they seek to emulate.
Not sure if their is Lidl in your area, a decent impact wrench from Parkside and then the professional line are quite good!With 4Ah very good. Never managed to get one, they are available also on ebay, search for them. I saw a nice 18V Milwaukee impact driver, snubby one for tight spaces, but they are over 500 euro's way to much for the amount I am using them.
Hi Ian, you have made some good progress,and don some important jobs,,, Look forward to your next video,I hope mine hubnut feels better soon, Best wishes to you all.
Everyone needs an Ugga Dugga in their life. For me I would also put a little dusting of sealer on the water pump housing and not be 100% reliant on the rubber seal. Nothing worse than seeing a water drip, after the engine is re fitted. 👍👍
I'm impressed at how the microphone dealt with the uggadugga-ing. From the reviews I have seen, pneumatic uggaduggers seem to be the way to go (I think yuou have a compressor?). Either way, this seems like real progress to me. It is always good when doing a project and the time comes to actually put things back together. Best wishes to the young Hublet, get well soon dude!
Good solid progress! I don't envy you trying to work on an engine dangling from chains though, been a few years since I suffered that problem! Have to agree though, with the extent you're going to, you really ought to do the clutch too👍.
You achieved a fair amount there Ian, I'd be happy enough with that. I don't get this whole new thing about sumps rotting out nowadays, I don't really remember it back when I worked on cars but I had to replace the sump on my 2011 Panda last year after 10 years of use, apparently common on them and Punto's of that era.
I had a Mitsubishi Shogun that had a rust hole in the sump. It was the first time I had come across a sump rusting and it boggled me. They are full of oil, so it must have rusted from the outside, in. I blamed it on a bit of mild off roading I did, in brackish water. Modern engines don't leak oil like old ones. So I guess they miss the protective coating of oil.
@@richardhemingway6084 You've hit the nail on the head, they rot from the outside for that very reason. My car has 100k miles on it and doesn't leak or burn a drop yet back when I was 18 I had an Allegro that had 80k on it that leaked and burned like a bugger 😂
This must be the least HubNut HubNut video I've ever watched. Torque wrenches? Workshop manuals? 😳 Have a crossed into an alternative dimension? 😂 (NODNOL, 831 SELIM)
"Let's just keep everything organised "...... What have you done with Mister HubNut? You could do with an engine stand, the acquisition of which is much more HubNut.......Keep up the good work sir, I'm told that the weather in that part of Wales was so unseasonably dry that Miss HubNut was stripped down to just two cagoules?🤣🤣
Congrats on the progress. I do think you could use a good bucket while doing all that work. They make for a splendid lightweight seat and when you're done a great trash bin for the post chaos clean up. I can understand why you don't want to replace the clutch, but if you haven't already, do replace the rear crank seal on the new-to-you engine. Cheap insurance.
Stressful enough undertaking work on cars without also attempting to make a video at the same time, predetermining people’s questions as you go based on previous comments! 🏅
Top work Ian! Certainly would have been easier if that engine stand had arrived rather than having it swinging around. Never mind, got there in the end!👍
YAY, back to what Hubnut does so badly(just joking) a tinkering video. Nice work Ian, look forward to you & Miss Hubnut shoe horning it back into the car and getting a will it run video
You are doing some pretty good work in this video, especially for someone that so readily proclaims he is no good at tinkering. I have never believed you on that though.
That clarke impact wrench is knackered.it wasn't impacting.i have the same one and its awesome.will undo everything on a car or van.a bit bulky is its only downside tho.
Like seeing things going slightly pear shaped and gloomy. Makes me feel better about my own usual M.O in the shed or garage. Come to think of it, my usual M.O from putting away the washing to anything requiring tools, if I can find them.
Sgs told me my new mig welder had been sent to couriers x 2 also. After 5 weeks of messing me about I demanded a welder or refund they admitted they didn't have the welder to sell.
So many traders these days are advertising items they don’t actually have. They take your order and then try to source the item from the manufacturer or even another supplier. So annoying. I try and check if they physically have it before buying but that’s not always possible and sometimes people fib too! Shocking I know.
@@franco992 they out and out lied to me, by email too. If I was computer clever I'd post there replies. They told me they had the item and had sent it to the courier twice. The first occasion said the courier had returned the item to them as they couldn't get in touch with me. My phone didn't ring and I never received emails from the said courier. Only when I lost patience and demanded delivery within 3 days or a refund did they admit they never had the item to sell. 5 weeks I let them mess me about, thinking maybe sourcing was taking longer than normal because of Brexit border difficulties.
Large bolts like that very rarely resist removal provided you use a six-sided socket. If you're using 12-sided sockets then a world of pain awaits with old cars. Save the 12-siders for new cars!
@@philtowle4683 That is true, although you only need to use the 6-sided lens to free off the nut. If it doesn't align with the nut the simply move it around in quarter turns on the socket drive until it does.
A good trick for over tight bolts is to heat them with a blowtorch then quench fast with water. It's saved me countless times with really hard bolts, nuts and studs.
Lovely Jubbly, this was more like when you use to work in your old garage by the railway line Mr HubNut, great to see you back enjoying tinkering.
Vintage tinkering and thoroughly productive. Good stuff! Could it be that, just like the rest of us, even Hubnut is jolly capable when all the stars align portentously. You’re frequently much too hard on yourself. 87k people can’t all be wrong. 👍
my favourite kind of hubnut video. proper amateur tinkering. makes me feel right at home.
Bend an inlet or exhaust valve at 90 degrees and put the keeper end in a bell housing bolt hole, the head of the valve locks into the flywheel ring gear, voila, engine prevented from turning, use a breaker bar with a piece of pipe over it to get more leverage on the crank pulley.
Good to see you getting stuck in.
I suspect my gun may have done it, but they are also quite dear to buy (DeWalt DCH899 for anyone wondering). It undid 2CV bearing retainers (both the hubnut and the retainer itself) without a problem.
However, even with this big rattle gun, using an impact socket makes a big difference to how the job goes. They're far tougher and design to repeatedly take the shocks from the persistent hammering
I had a Charade, one of the best cars I've ever had. My fault lousing up the brakes though, I put in regular brake fluid for hydraulic fluid that was also for the clutch.
I will give you a top tip. Remove spark plugs and stick some thick string inside the cylinders, one will do. This will allow you to lock up the engine and easily remove the crank pulley bolt without doing any damage to tools or the engine. Once bolt is loosened, simply rotate the engine the oppposite way slightly and retrieve the string.
@@whitemonkey7932 Then engage brain and rope the cylinder at tdc???
@@whitemonkey7932 I have no idea what you are going on about.
In 15 years of working on pretty much every type of Army vehicle and all the different user unfriendly lubricants, I only ever wore gloves when the temperature was 10°C or less. So much easier and quicker to work without them.
A handy trick is to remove cylinder 1 spark plug and with the engine at BDC feed some rope down into the cylinder, then trun it to TDC (or close). When the rope compresses it locks the engine quite well and lets you get a power bar on the crank pulley bolt to loosen it.
Well done, Ian. Coming along a treat. Just think, when this engine goes bad you will know how to swap it for the old engine that is freshly rebuilt!
Many Japanese vehicles use a torque + angle tightening technique that results in a stupidly tight bolt. I now have a flywheels stopper made from a segment of flywheel ring gear welded to a piece of angle iron which can be bolted to the bellhousing bolt positions.
Thank you! I'm super-grateful to you for posting this video and episide 5 detailing the water pump change for the Charade, as my garage (2 garages, actually, and counting...) have had trouble and it's booked into a third this week. Honestly, I feel like I should have it towed to your house so you and your wife can do it, haha! Until now, I knew nothing about car engines but I almost feel like I could do this myself after watching your step by step tutorial. I'm very grateful. :)
It's an easy enough job but trying to get parts for a Charade is becoming very difficult.
@@HubNut it sure can be, can't it! Since getting mine, I've had a new exhaust and clutch and I had to source them myself as garages struggle to get things from their regular suppliers, especially at normal prices! This water pump was the only one in the whole of the UK (of the correct dimensions) and cost a small fortune. My previous garage put one on that I got them off eBay but it wouldn't line up with the alternator belt so that just came off leaving me stranded in the rain and having to cancel a trip to Europe... Annoyingly this genuine and brand new Daihatsu branded one has got the housing attached which mechanic no.2 can't get off. Mechanic no.3 will see it on Friday. Keep your fingers crossed for me! It's a right saga! :D
Good to see work progressing. Miss hub nut will be pleased all the best to you all
I got Irwin bolt removers and they are really great to have, not expensive and very good!Big two thumbs up for them.
I've got an ugga dugga exactly the same as yours, they're not bad but just don't expect too much from it. It's nice to see some progress on this nice little car. 👍
Perfect content to watch when you're ill with Covid. Can't wait to hear the hopefully non smokey engine run.
Get well soon.
@@williamwoods8022 Sad to hear that, I remember watching his series on it and it looked like he had the cars in pretty good nick.
Nice progress. I’ve done several timing belts and I’m scared every time.
When hearing Ugga Dugga I thought it was some Australian slang, looked it up. Nice to get some new words I never heard of before. Beats school anytime, although I am 11 years older than Mr Hubnut.
Nice work Ian, lots of progress there. One piece at a time, I think someone sang about that once...
Glad I'm not the only one less than happy with SGS, rather liberal with their descriptions and refused to upload my review as it wasn't 5* only 3* and I was even polite. Great progress and even quite tidy, bonus. Thank you.
Top tinkering, Ian. Thanks a lot. More progress, scored a few goals there.
You are doing a fine job that most would not even think about. Carry on and full ugga dugga ahead.
Fantastic to see you getting stuck in again (as opposed to just stuck!), brings a smile to my face and some entertaining viewing after a day at work. Hope everything is going as well as it can be. Also having had a Jack Russell growing up, I can attest to the "disagreements"!!
I would have handed the Jack Russel to a Chinese take away they know how to handle nasty dogs.
Enjoyed your tinkering with the New engine. Enjoying a cuppa from my Hubnut mug.
Lovely to see the progress slowly but surely, taking your time and being clean and methodical is key! I can't wait to see the end result, the hard work will pay off. Advise, as you found out the shiny black impact sockets are thin walled, which is why they could shift the crank bolt, always use the proper impact sockets you've got and not the chrome sockets as you'll risk shattering them. I deeply suspect you enjoyed using your new tool and it will certainly save you money but giving you confidence in fixing more - hopefully proven once you've fitted the engine :)
Well that was very un-HubNut. Some decent mechanicing. Enjoyed every minute of that tinkering and good to see what is possible to diy,
Re Jack Russel issue, I totally sympathise. We're fostering a very nippy fox terrier puppy at the moment. Not to put too finer point on it, he's been nicknamed 'The Veloce Raptor' and I have the wounds to back that up.
I do love Hubnut tinkering sessions.
Waited for my day off to watch this. Some top drawer tinkering Ian thoroughly enjoyed it
"I think I'm going to have to clean up this edge". Somewhere a small lady is watching this and beaming with pride
That would've been a nightmare to do that timing belt with the engine in I reckon!
proper tinkering at last, i got a lidl ugga dugga great for whipping off wheel nuts, can't wait to see this project sorted, especially the first run....smug satisfaction or despair ...make sure all seals are good don't wanna be doing leaks later
Absaloutly brilliant video Ian 👍 you are entertaining glad you got the belt of
Usually the old method of a big breaker bar and a scaffolding pole is a great way of removing very hard to undo nuts and bolts.
The power of an impact wrench is from the weight of the hammers in it not so much from the battery voltage, also an 18 volt unit will have 5 cells in the battery pack and so will the 21 volt unit, it is solely down to the marketing guys as to whether they round the voltage up or down Makita chose to use the lower figure. At the end of the day I have always found that air powered units are better but not as convenient as cordless, so having both is best.
Good to see you back, I have finally succumbed to Covid! I had been so lucky, so this was a welcome video to watch
Get well soon!
A trick I have read but not had to use yet for locking the engine to break loose the crank pulley bolt. Find the piston at BDC and coil rope down into the cylinder until there is enough to stop it turning. The last time I loosened the bolt off I put the car in 5th gear and put the hand brake on. It loosened but the car was starting to move. Some guys put a wrench on the bolt and turn the engine on the starter to crack it.
The impact drivers now make life so much easier. Good luck with the rest of it, despite the odd setback it seems to be going well.
indeed, standard practice on the old 740/760 and 940 Volvo's is to locate a socket on a breaker bar, lodge it on the frame somewhere and flick (JUST flick!) the starter to undo the crank bolt. Doing it up is just a case of the third stage of tightness....ok, I'll explain...1st stage is tight, 2nd stage is f***ing tight and 3rd stage is WCDTU, ("what ***t did that up?"). One reason I personally don't like ugga-duggas is some b'stard uses it on my wheel nuts and that's a bugga when you get a puncture on a dark night in the bluddy rain.
@@whitemonkey7932 yes I believe you are right and I stand corrected. Thank you good sir. 🙂
Nice to watch and good to see you happy with some very helpful new tools. Would have been great to have a good working position.
Loo brush in a drill??!! Pure genius!! I'll be using that technique to clean my landrover chassis. Good old hubnut! 👌
Also good for cleaning Jeep alloy wheels when covered in mud.
@@stippolyte Good for cleaning toilets too 😂
@@ferrumignis what kind of curries are you eating? 😳😳😳😂😂😂
@@ferrumignis I think I'll go before you m8 🤣.
🤣🤣
Great little tinkering video and Great progress on the engine despite the ugga dugga issues.
Good progress Sir HubNut 🚙
HubNut is always entertaining. Thanks Ian.
Well done; that was a daunting task but you got it done one bolt at a time. Replacing the water pump and cambelt has saved a lot of money compared to paying a garage to do the replacement with the engine in the car. ☮️
I worked for DPD for a bit, they were throwing TV's from the truck and smashing them onto the conveyor belt because of the time pressure. All the trucks had to be emptied during the night shift.
I'm a courier myself (though not for DPD) People have no idea the pressure drivers are under in the job, and what they're expected to do for how much they're paid. It gave me a lot of appreciation for couriers that I didn't have until I did the job myself. I suspect most people are like that.
Can highly recommend Milwaukee's M18 range of impact wrenches. I've had one of their largest for 5 years now, never been beaten. Although victory sometimes comes in the form of a sheared bolt instead.
We use a Milwaukee M18 Fuel 1/2" unit at work and it makes light work of pretty much anything even M50 nuts!!
@@MrOvershoot I changed the WHOLE front suspension on my Tigra Twintop after I did a dukes of hazzard up a hidden kerb in Bodmin Parkway station car park... Grrr.
Anyway, I am no professional but with this thing was ripping through bolts like they were nothing, it took me 90mins to change everything. A re-alignment after and it felt like a brand new car.
I do rate Milwaukee.
@@EdgyNumber1 Don't worry I also managed a full on spanner moment at Bodmin station on my bike in 2005 getting off the train from Looe I was about to ride off to Padstow on the Camel Trail but managed to ride into a flower bed and launch myself into 3 rose bushes.
Worst thing was I had an audience of 5 school kids who took the piss mercilessly
🤥
I have the M18 Fuel half inch gun and the 115mm grinder, good stuff. You can use the app to set the slackening torque to the max via Bluetooth.
I do like the milwaukee stuff.
Impact gun, grinder and drill.
Never used to be a fan of cordless stuff but it's so good these days. 👍
Keep going Ian. Its hard to stay motivated. But it's coming together now, you'll soon get it running better than ever 👍
I can't get used to the impact wrench to be called Ugga Dugga. It is something you would expect in Australia though it would be Duggo.
Interesting that this engine is (I think) the forerunner to the Aygo/C1/107 engines. There must have been some overlap then, as there are still quite a lot of 55-plate Aygos and 107's in my area (older cars are everywhere in Exeter). Keep them coming. I'm learning a lot from these engine-swap videos. Well done HubNut.
Yes, it is odd. This EJ-VE is quite an old engine in reality.
Excellent! I can't wait the moment to your first turn of the key... ✨👍✨
Another great tinkering video
Great to see more work.
Sorry to hear about your family member passing.
Not watched for a couple of weeks or so.
Rotate the pulley twice as cam is at half crank rotation. Two turns on the crank.
If you do go looking for a more powerful impact wrench i do recommend the ryobi 18v range if the uk has them. Had my impact one for 6 years now without fault.
And good value for money 👍
Ryobi stuff is definitely good, I like mine. They do end up costing you a fair whack though - 80 quid for a 4Ah battery for example 😳 Recently added an angle grinder to my collection, so happy to finally have a battery angle grinder. It's not a brushless one, but works well enough for what I need
@@Pete1965 Any experience on Makita impact drill how good is it?
so far so good. good work on the timing belt !!. pity about the lack of engine stand.. take your time .. no hurry 😁😁
HUBNUT, The most powerful ugga-duggas are _Milwaukee_ tools.
_Milwaukee Fuel M18_ made mincemeat of a complete suspension replacement within 90 minutes. However don't use it for light work where a breaker bar will do. Its for heavy duty work. Such as subframe mounts, suspension, axles, gearbox bolts etc.
I recommend their impact wrenches for lighter stuff
Oh! One thing I forgot to mention always choose 'brushless' versions, whichever manufacturers you choose. They last longer.
Nice one mate these thing's all take time. Glad to see you got the crank pulley off and are working well with the bolt extractors. 👍😀
Flywheel locking tools are wonderful things. All you need is something that notches into the ring gear teeth and is held by one of the bellhousing bolt holes. Someone, somewhere must do a generic one. You are going to need one to tighten it up.....
Cheers. My plan was to tighten it in-situ, though that does depend on me remembering to do it...
@@HubNut It's a possibility but you have all the slop and play in the drive, brakes and shock absorbtion system to cope with. Guaranteed to be more of a pain to get enough swing on the spanner than doing it when the motor is out and locked. If your engine stand ever turns up, locking the flywheel on that would be comparatively simple. Just a prybar in the teeth and levered against the mounting bolts, or some other protuberance, and held by your friendly neighborhood gorilla. You will even be able to get a precise torque figure....
Regarding impact drivers. Once nightmare hub bolts to remove from an old Audi 80 B4. Was told they'd be a nightmare. Went to an old pal's garage and borrowed his 3/4" drive impact driven off a compressor with a massive 250litre or so air tank. Dead easy. Loads of torque there. Sometimes you need the old ways, I'm afraid.
currently waiting for new subframe to chassis bolts for my zafira after swapping out the gearbox, little buggers had to be cut out, i love working on cars 🙄 quite gutted when the video ended was enjoying watching someone else suffering instead of me :)
You are the Sultan of the Swinging engine.
Milwalkee don’t mess about they are savage and will undo everything you show it best gun ever
Fab to see some progress! I'm keen to have a proper impact wrench in my life, but have found whilst perusing the cheap clones, that they have significantly lower torque than the originals that they seek to emulate.
Not sure if their is Lidl in your area, a decent impact wrench from Parkside and then the professional line are quite good!With 4Ah very good. Never managed to get one, they are available also on ebay, search for them. I saw a nice 18V Milwaukee impact driver, snubby one for tight spaces, but they are over 500 euro's way to much for the amount I am using them.
Glad you got it off. Funny enough, it must be a camera shy ugga dugga.... we got our crank bolt off off camera too! It's two for two so far though!
New Hubnuy sticker came today. Thankyou very much
Hi Ian, you have made some good progress,and don some important jobs,,,
Look forward to your next video,I hope mine hubnut feels better soon,
Best wishes to you all.
Everyone needs an Ugga Dugga in their life. For me I would also put a little dusting of sealer on the water pump housing and not be 100% reliant on the rubber seal. Nothing worse than seeing a water drip, after the engine is re fitted. 👍👍
I think,given the engine is out,add a little smear of a correct type sealer for price of mind.
Get well soon Mini HubNut, hopefully Mrs. H can be back with bags and labels soon.
Chipping away at it. It'll no doubt take a while but let's face it, you've got a pretty significant job on there.
Yeah, but not far off stuffing it back in now.
I'm impressed at how the microphone dealt with the uggadugga-ing. From the reviews I have seen, pneumatic uggaduggers seem to be the way to go (I think yuou have a compressor?). Either way, this seems like real progress to me. It is always good when doing a project and the time comes to actually put things back together. Best wishes to the young Hublet, get well soon dude!
Good solid progress! I don't envy you trying to work on an engine dangling from chains though, been a few years since I suffered that problem! Have to agree though, with the extent you're going to, you really ought to do the clutch too👍.
Hi Ian one way to lock the engine is to pack the cylinder with rope which you can then retrieve after you have finished.
Don't even suggest it, you know he'd manage to do it on the wrong stroke and bend the valves 😅
@@ferrumignis really, you think?
Ha ha Charade you are!
Good job 👍
Wing-o-matic! Fantastic!
Another great video has always Ian and miss hubnut and hublets and hubmutts 👍
Ian those sumps are made from marw metal
Rusts out before your very eyes extreme caution is advised when removing and replacing,Cary on the good work.
I hope that Rotten sump isn’t something else bad down the line with the replacement engine
You achieved a fair amount there Ian, I'd be happy enough with that. I don't get this whole new thing about sumps rotting out nowadays, I don't really remember it back when I worked on cars but I had to replace the sump on my 2011 Panda last year after 10 years of use, apparently common on them and Punto's of that era.
I had a Mitsubishi Shogun that had a rust hole in the sump. It was the first time I had come across a sump rusting and it boggled me. They are full of oil, so it must have rusted from the outside, in. I blamed it on a bit of mild off roading I did, in brackish water. Modern engines don't leak oil like old ones. So I guess they miss the protective coating of oil.
@@richardhemingway6084 You've hit the nail on the head, they rot from the outside for that very reason. My car has 100k miles on it and doesn't leak or burn a drop yet back when I was 18 I had an Allegro that had 80k on it that leaked and burned like a bugger 😂
This must be the least HubNut HubNut video I've ever watched. Torque wrenches? Workshop manuals? 😳
Have a crossed into an alternative dimension? 😂 (NODNOL, 831 SELIM)
"Let's just keep everything organised "...... What have you done with Mister HubNut? You could do with an engine stand, the acquisition of which is much more HubNut.......Keep up the good work sir, I'm told that the weather in that part of Wales was so unseasonably dry that Miss HubNut was stripped down to just two cagoules?🤣🤣
Congrats on the progress. I do think you could use a good bucket while doing all that work. They make for a splendid lightweight seat and when you're done a great trash bin for the post chaos clean up.
I can understand why you don't want to replace the clutch, but if you haven't already, do replace the rear crank seal on the new-to-you engine. Cheap insurance.
Excellent progress Ian cant wait to see miss hubnut back to learning, imagin if she passes she can be the designated automatic car reviewer.
It's a manual...
Oh where did the idea it was auto from must be loosing the plot
I absolutely enjoyed this video can’t wait for more updates on chemmy the charade
You should check the clutch before you put it all together. While it is off best to have a look.
I will do.
@@HubNut You know where I am if you need any help.
Stressful enough undertaking work on cars without also attempting to make a video at the same time, predetermining people’s questions as you go based on previous comments! 🏅
Ah, Jack Russells are renowned for being sharp at both ends!
Great stuff, it's coming on. Best wishes.
18 and 21 volts on the power tools are exactly the same. The 21 is the battery under no load, 18 volts is when running.
Top work Ian! Certainly would have been easier if that engine stand had arrived rather than having it swinging around. Never mind, got there in the end!👍
I had the same problems with sgs and a 3 ton trolley jack which bent on the first use then SGS refuse to repeat it
YAY, back to what Hubnut does so badly(just joking) a tinkering video. Nice work Ian, look forward to you & Miss Hubnut shoe horning it back into the car and getting a will it run video
Very entertaining and enjoyable........for....the...viewers that is(!).
You are doing some pretty good work in this video, especially for someone that so readily proclaims he is no good at tinkering. I have never believed you on that though.
I am afraid we have been fooled by Mr.Hubnut, he just pretends to be bad. I watched the series with the Mighty Dacia and he knows his stuff.😜
No surprise the sump rusted through not uncommon at all on all sorts of cars especially small cheap cars that are close to the ground.
That clarke impact wrench is knackered.it wasn't impacting.i have the same one and its awesome.will undo everything on a car or van.a bit bulky is its only downside tho.
Like seeing things going slightly pear shaped and gloomy. Makes me feel better about my own usual M.O in the shed or garage. Come to think of it, my usual M.O from putting away the washing to anything requiring tools, if I can find them.
Sgs told me my new mig welder had been sent to couriers x 2 also. After 5 weeks of messing me about I demanded a welder or refund they admitted they didn't have the welder to sell.
Awful. It used to be a good company, but something has clearly gone very wrong.
So many traders these days are advertising items they don’t actually have. They take your order and then try to source the item from the manufacturer or even another supplier. So annoying. I try and check if they physically have it before buying but that’s not always possible and sometimes people fib too! Shocking I know.
@@franco992 they out and out lied to me, by email too. If I was computer clever I'd post there replies. They told me they had the item and had sent it to the courier twice. The first occasion said the courier had returned the item to them as they couldn't get in touch with me. My phone didn't ring and I never received emails from the said courier. Only when I lost patience and demanded delivery within 3 days or a refund did they admit they never had the item to sell. 5 weeks I let them mess me about, thinking maybe sourcing was taking longer than normal because of Brexit border difficulties.
Well done ian keep going lad
Large bolts like that very rarely resist removal provided you use a six-sided socket. If you're using 12-sided sockets then a world of pain awaits with old cars. Save the 12-siders for new cars!
12 sided socket come into their own in tight spaces as you have more positions to start from.
@@philtowle4683 That is true, although you only need to use the 6-sided lens to free off the nut. If it doesn't align with the nut the simply move it around in quarter turns on the socket drive until it does.
“I’m a bloody UA-camr”. Ha ha, brilliant!
Keep an eye on market place I’ve got an old corded 110 makita 3/4 impact. That’ll snap your arm off so you have to be abit careful with them
Nice to see some tinkering, you did very well without your supervisor Lol.