You guys eliminated the entire stock of The Lee 803's at Adorama, so here's some other options for the 100 Pro. There are two very close options for Rosco, both are CC035M. The E-Colour 279 1/8 Minus Green, and the Rosco Cinegel 3318 1/8 Minus Green. There might be others, you are looking for a CC03M correction for 100 Pro, CC02M (which I don't even see available from Rosco) on the V1. CC03M on a V1 will push it more Magenta at most power levels than the other barebulb Godox units.
What about the filters that come in the ak-r1 filter kit. It has 3 of the warming filters. Did you try those to see what they do? Isn't this what they are for? Maybe they are just too much than a small correction. But I assume you have them to try.
Thanks very much! What about when you need to use CTO or CTB gels to match the ambient light. Do you still use the minus green gel with the aforementioned ones? Thanks again!
@@alonihill7708 CTO / CTB modify temperature, not tint. So (provided the gel is high quality), you would still need tint correction if you wanted to neutralize it.
For me, Lee 804 worked better than 803 for my AD100 Pro. I got an almost perfect match between the AD100 Pro and the AD200 (barebulb, and inside a Godox 80x80cm softbox). With Lee 803, the AD100 Pro was little more magenta than the AD 200 was. Great video, by the way!
This video is a tangible service to your viewer, thanks RH! I can just imagine the Profoto people saying, "ah ha, I warned you all about those cheap Godox Flashes." Shooting night time events, I had not noticed the green tint. I hope Godox conforms this error and sends out corrective glass.
Great tip. Used the 1/8 minus green gel from the v-11t kit. Just had to cut that small notch where the modeling light was due to the bump on the diffuser panel. Will be nice to see how well this works.
@@piotrgorajek1289 I bought a color temp gel kit for the godox/flashpoint the v-11t. It had several warming and cooling and green magenta shifting gels. I just took out the 1/8 minus green and had to cut a small notch on the on area of the edge because of how the diffuser plate on the light is designed.
I have two AD100Pro flashes. I did as you did and put a Lee 803 filter on each one. I noticed that the fresnel lens on each one was scorched, blackened, distorted. I guess it's because the flash tube is too close to the fresnel lens? Anyway, I ordered two new fresnel lenses from China. However, I ordered the ones for the V1. They came today. I put them on the flashes, and I thought that that would take care of the green tint issue, and that I could remove the Lee filter. However, I found that I still needed the Lee filter, even with the new fresnel lens from the V1. I measured them with my Minolta IIIF color meter and finally got a CC0 reading. Thanks for your help! I love my AD100Pros! Now, I have a huge sheet of filter material left over!
Glad to hear you got the color resolved. Unfortunate that the V1 lenses still required it. They updated the lenses on the 100 Pro, and V1 while developing the V1 Pro (to have no tint). However, finding those updated lenses as a replacement part is a crap shoot as it completely depends on when the retailer received them. I wish there was a specific part number to indicate which are green and which are not.
Hi Rob, I was just about to order the AD100 Pro today but after watching this video, I have withdrawn my order. Do you have any information if the Green colour cast issue is still present in AD100 Pro? I have already ordered AD300 Pro which is on the way. A bit worried if the AD300 Pro too have any such colour cast issue. @@robhallphoto
Doesn't the 804 on a V1 eat up more light than the 803, being denser? But quite honestly, the V1 that I recently received doesn't seem to have a green tint at all. So maybe Godox rectified the problem using your recommendation. Keep up the good work. Your videos are a great resource for all Godox/Flashpoint users.
Hi Rob, Just wanted to give you a heads up that it appears the green cast in the Xplor/AD100 Pro has been fixed in a recent hardware revision. I ordered about 10 of these from Adorama during the Black Friday 2022 sale. They were back ordered for a long time. The first few came in about 10 days ago, and the serial number is a bar code. The last 7 that arrived yesterday (Jan. 10, 2023) have a QR serial number and the front fresnel is clearly a different (more neutral color). I noticed it immediately as I was about to do the Lee 803 magenta gel hack. I've reached out to my pro rep at Adorama and I'm waiting on more details.
Excellent to hear - that's definitely the fix everyone deserved. I wonder if that has been done on the V1 as well. Also what this means for the AK-R22 diffusre.
@@dannymoriarty1966 The Adorama folks didn't officially confirm this specific update, but did note that there was a "slight manufacturing change" that happened during the most recent production run. I've been using them for at least a dozen weddings so far this year and can confirm that there is no noticeable color cast when using with other Godox lights or standalone. (I did notice the green cast before in my early production model) I've also mixed them with the gel-corrected light and things also seem to match nicely.
I have read the AD300 has a slight color cast. Have you checked this unit. I’d love to know the color balance on this unit before buying it. Thx for your great videos
You can not ask much of a free service but since you have the 1500 dollar Color meter: How about a new test now since Godoy don’t say anything but chances are it’s fixed by now? I sure appreciate all your Godox stuff!
LOL... omg Rob, how are you not in Godox's R&D team!! but seriously.. this is not a hard fix to get right at manufacturing stage, and its not like its their first go at flashes. Come on Godox, best to fix this, and get tint right out box! 👍
I solved the problem by not using the AD100 when color is important, but use one of my AD200s instead. The AD100 is used only for single-light setups where I can easily color-correct the shot in post. And since color temperature changes with the power level: Guys, just don't buy the 100 right now, wait until the manufacturer has fixed the problem properly.
Same here. I still don’t give up on the AD100. A great “always in pocket” setup with the Fastbox 24, but in a multi light setup it goes behind as a gelled hairlight, background light, etc. Still Godox needs to fix this issue or at least offer replacement fresnels.
@@lubopaskov4346 - to be honest, I _am_ about to give up on my AD100. I'll try to fix it with a filter, if that does not yield satisfactory results I will simply sell the damn thing.
@@lubopaskov4346 - well, I _did_ give up on the AD100 - I sold mine today. For quick documentative shots (which was basically what I get the AD100 for) I reactivated an old Speedlight + cable. Works like a charm, and the colors are nigh perfect. And, just to be clear, I very much like Godox. Unlike E… or P… which are extremely and very overpriced respectively, Godox offers real value, and I would not want to miss my 200s, my 600 and not to forget my 1200, which more than once brightened up my day. And my apartment. And my neighborhood. But the 100s, sorry, but no thanks. Color is _it,_ if that doesn't work properly, a light is simply unusable.
I haven't noticed any green tint with my ad100, neither on it's own nor when using it with my ad200. Still, this is good information to keep in mind. Thanks!
Was yours ordered recently? There’s always a chance that this has been changed, both of mine were very early in production but as far as I know there haven’t been changes. You really need a neutral background to notice it though. If you have an AD200 round head, look at the lenses side by side and see if your 100 is more yellow/green.
@@robhallphoto I bought 2 AD100pro from Adorama last Black Friday. And those units also have that green tint. yesterday I run some test at home after I saw your video and you are right, LightRoom is correcting the white balance with +23 tint. It is going to be very frustrating when I will want to use those lights along with my AD300pro
Great video, totally helps me out, tue ad100pro is such a great light for my aquarium shooting needs. Didn't want to spend the money for the profoto a2
With these fixes, is there any concern for heat on those gels? Just curious. Great options though, if you got one of the earlier models before the corrected fresnels.
I just found they sell the V1 lens as a spare part for $30 … might be the actual fix for the AD100. Still wondering why they went with a different lens for the AD100 if the V1 one would need no change. That's very weird.
Thanks for the valuable information. I also installed the filter you introduced. But I heard on a website that this V1 changes the color in every shot, and when I tried it, I found that the color temperature and color balance are actually different in every few photos. I am quite disappointed. Do you know about this? Please verify! By the way, when he sent it to the manufacturer as a repair, he was told that other V1s have the same phenomenon.
The V1 has incredibly consistent color for a speedlight. In my test, across the entire power range, the V1 produced a total Kelvin range of 238 (6588 max, 6350 min). That is +/- 120 which is extremely good for a speedlight, especially at such a low price. It performed more consistently than the FJ80. This was done in standard sync, I'm not sure how wide the range is in HSS. So no, I can't say I share that experience of the color temperature changing wildly between photos, especially not if the power setting is consistent.
@@robhallphoto Thanks for the reply. Hmmm. Did you try several consecutive flashes with one setting? Anyway, one out of every few photos is mixed with a different color temperature and shell balance. The first sleuth I saw this report from asked the Japanese distributor for verification, and I was told that they saw the same results with other solids as a response to their testing. By the way, this is for Sony E-mount.
@@robhallphoto The series of shots I tried were all single shots with at least 1 second between them, and I also tried 1/64 output with the same results. Why the reported results occur is a mystery, there may be some problem with the charge between each shot, but I have not seen any change in exposure. I have not tried with all the other lenses I own, such as TT685, V860II, AD200, AD360, AD400, AD1200, etc., but I would like to test with them as well when I have time.
Tested the AD100pro (4 of them) against the AD300pro. Tint wise AD100 now matches AD300 but the color temp of AD100 is average 7200K while the AD300 color temp is around 6400K so can't use them together. I don't understand Godox.
Thanks very much for your information. I guess I’ll be giving Adorama more money since I don’t find the 804’s anywhere else. Since that’s where I bought the Zoom Lu-on. Very disappointed in godox and flashpoint for this.
have you found anywhere that sells just the gel holder. In the Uk I have to buy accessory kit just to get additional gel holders or a holder with a large selection of gels.
Now I'm wondering if the AD200 round head has a similar issue. I really only use the bare bulb, but was thinking of picking up a round head for lighting a shoot through umbrella once in a while.
That was what I was wondering but I believe there is not a problem with the AD200pro. Rob indicated the AD200Pro has exceptional color balance in this video. I have the AD200Pro and I am pleased.
The round head on the AD200 does not have a tint issue. It uses a barebulb inside a reflector, not a flash tube. Also there’s just the diffusion glass, no fresnel/diffuser glass elements.
Thanks Rob! I also read that the V1 TTL does not work with the vello off camera shoe cord. I have found this to be true. Have you experienced this? Any alternative cords that you know of?
The 1/8 minus green is exactly equivalent to the Lee 279 (it's also written on the V11T box), which is equivalent to the Lee 803 mentioned by Rob; the 279 is described by Kee as for use with flash on film, the 803 with use of led lights in digital. The 279, or 1/8 green, is more easy to find then the 803, at least in Europe.
Have you tested the AD300? Have seen various reports of tinting. Even today at ImagingUSA in Nashville ran into other photogs who had that issue. Looking to move into a new lighting system from Phottix as they failed to expand their lineup. Would really appreciate any info on the AD300.
I have and there is no tint (in standard sync) on either of my AD300 Pros. Wouldn't make sense for it to experience this same issue as this issue is simply the fresnel lenses trying to offset the color of the flash tube, neither of which are on any of the barebulb units.
Have both of these flashes and I'm noticing the colour imbalance now as my photography eye develops. I wonder though, does putting the gel in the unit make it likely to melt? I ask because I used one of the gels that came with my AD100 and it slightly melted to the diffuser that I stacked on top of it.
Really depends on the quality of gel. Some cheap bulk gel pack - could have issues. But most high quality gels are designed to withstand a lot more heat than the 100 Pro puts out. So far, I rocked them at 1/2 +.3 power for over 100 consecutive shots, and had no issues.
@@ericgrayphoto I think it's just something the seller threw in.
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Ok. Now I'm really curious to know how much correction would you need in different power level if you used V1 Fresnel lens in AD100 Pro. If it was perfect in 1/16 power. I would assume it wouldn't change that much?
It wouldn't change much. 1/16 is middle of the road and if I recall correctly it only got .1 higher at 1/128 and 1/256 which you really have to look to see.
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@@robhallphoto thanks for this info. I actually might just change Fresnel lens of my AD100 Pro because I've managed to burn couple filters already.
I've done some tests myself, looks like my units v1 or ad100 cooling effect is more a problem than the green tint versus my AD400pro, maybe, those are more recent ones? Or older?
With the Godox V1, is there also a need to correct the white balance in that the output is around 6200K whereas most flash strobes are spec’ed to 5400K? Would an additional ¼ CTO help in addition to the correction for the tint? The color temperature is always an issue for me when swapping my Nikon speedlights and the V1.
What about the filters that come in the ak-r1 filter kit. It has 3 of the warming filters. Did you try those to see what they do? Isn't this what they are for? Maybe they are just too much than a small correction. But I assume you have them to try.
Maybe the flash becomes a little more magenta after a certain amount of use and they kind of gave it a little headroom so it would balance out over time.
I bought this AD100 Pro just yesterday and I wondered why the lens is so Greenish yellow. It makes sense now. It is unacceptable for a $300 light to have this much shift in color cast. Godox certainly cheaped out with this product.
@@robhallphoto Yes it is unacceptable when they could easily fix this with a V1 lens. It is most likely a mistake on the production line and Godox being a cheaper Chinese manufacturer diddn’t want to loose money on the already produced units. Do not defend a brand blindly.
Love the video! Any chance you can release the colour cast at all power levels data so we can look for a local/available gel solution in different countries?
Have you found green tint on other flashes? I'm constantly editing out green. Ad600 original, ad300pro, ad200, ad1200pro. I'm curious if you found them in other flashes
Godox actually released the colored ad100, red, pink, blue, GREEN, to make them look cool and hipster enough. But did't fix the real real problem. This says a lot to me, and I'm really sorry to observe it.. Was abou to buy a coupole, but, nop, not at this condition, at all.
Anyone tried Godox v-11 T or C gels? V-11T contains 1 more, does anyone know, if it is the relevant one? I own AD100, it seems to have the green tint, I intend to buy the V1, it should be fixed nowdays?
I can now answer my own question. V-11T gel collection corrects it. It is not perfect, but almost. The magnetic diffusor dome corrects it a little bit already, by the way. If I use the lightest purple (weakest minus green) and lightest blue gel in the adaptor, it makes it a little bit to purple, I think, but I find it more preferable, than the too green and too warm unmodified state. So, I use the dome + pruple + blue gel.
In their regular modes, AD200 / 400 Pro / 600 Pro / 1200 Pro have 0 - .1 Tint levels across their entire power range. In HSS, different story. The reason I wouldn't make a stink about it in the other units though is modifiers. The V1 and 100 Pro are much more likely to be used without modification, either directly or via bounce. With the others, not only do they have less tint issues, but what little they do have is often minimized through light modifiers
@@robhallphoto have you worked out which filter to use with the V1 that has the AD100 lens? It seems like it would need to be different than the 803 the AD100 would have needed since they didn’t have matching magenta casts to start with…
Such a silly thing given all they had to do was re-use the exisiting V1 part.... but a bit like the sagging tilt handles (on the ad400/300pro), could easily use a heavier duty part like what they have on the ad600pro/S2 bracket but rather put their fingers in their ears
You guys eliminated the entire stock of The Lee 803's at Adorama, so here's some other options for the 100 Pro.
There are two very close options for Rosco, both are CC035M. The E-Colour 279 1/8 Minus Green, and the Rosco Cinegel 3318 1/8 Minus Green.
There might be others, you are looking for a CC03M correction for 100 Pro, CC02M (which I don't even see available from Rosco) on the V1. CC03M on a V1 will push it more Magenta at most power levels than the other barebulb Godox units.
What about the filters that come in the ak-r1 filter kit. It has 3 of the warming filters. Did you try those to see what they do? Isn't this what they are for? Maybe they are just too much than a small correction. But I assume you have them to try.
@@fostervf16 warming filters affect kelvin temp, not tint. Magenta/Green color casts are tint.
@@robhallphoto gotcha.
Thanks very much! What about when you need to use CTO or CTB gels to match the ambient light. Do you still use the minus green gel with the aforementioned ones? Thanks again!
@@alonihill7708 CTO / CTB modify temperature, not tint. So (provided the gel is high quality), you would still need tint correction if you wanted to neutralize it.
Always on the point, no bs no fluff. Thank u for making all(!) of your videos like this!
For me, Lee 804 worked better than 803 for my AD100 Pro. I got an almost perfect match between the AD100 Pro and the AD200 (barebulb, and inside a Godox 80x80cm softbox). With Lee 803, the AD100 Pro was little more magenta than the AD 200 was. Great video, by the way!
Yes! It was the same situation with mine. Both of these gels are slightly more magenta than my ad200 pro
This video is a tangible service to your viewer, thanks RH! I can just imagine the Profoto people saying, "ah ha, I warned you all about those cheap Godox Flashes." Shooting night time events, I had not noticed the green tint. I hope Godox conforms this error and sends out corrective glass.
Great tip. Used the 1/8 minus green gel from the v-11t kit. Just had to cut that small notch where the modeling light was due to the bump on the diffuser panel. Will be nice to see how well this works.
Hey, what's the name of gel you used?
@@piotrgorajek1289 I bought a color temp gel kit for the godox/flashpoint the v-11t. It had several warming and cooling and green magenta shifting gels. I just took out the 1/8 minus green and had to cut a small notch on the on area of the edge because of how the diffuser plate on the light is designed.
Tried that, its less matching my ad400pro than without gel, my issue is that either v1 or ad100pro are too cool
Because I have 3 V1’s and 2 ad200pros I don’t feel a need for ad100pros. Thanks for your detailed info, as always your videos are well respected.
I can always expect a technical video from Rob. He must be an engineer nerd like myself 🤣
Thanks for the shout out!
Really interesting to hear that it's the fresnel that causes it.. How it passed quality control I'll never know!
Thanking you for these valuable information doesn’t do you justice.
Thanks for sharing all these details. Now I need to add an 804 to my order as well!
I have two AD100Pro flashes. I did as you did and put a Lee 803 filter on each one. I noticed that the fresnel lens on each one was scorched, blackened, distorted. I guess it's because the flash tube is too close to the fresnel lens? Anyway, I ordered two new fresnel lenses from China. However, I ordered the ones for the V1. They came today. I put them on the flashes, and I thought that that would take care of the green tint issue, and that I could remove the Lee filter. However, I found that I still needed the Lee filter, even with the new fresnel lens from the V1. I measured them with my Minolta IIIF color meter and finally got a CC0 reading. Thanks for your help! I love my AD100Pros! Now, I have a huge sheet of filter material left over!
Glad to hear you got the color resolved. Unfortunate that the V1 lenses still required it. They updated the lenses on the 100 Pro, and V1 while developing the V1 Pro (to have no tint). However, finding those updated lenses as a replacement part is a crap shoot as it completely depends on when the retailer received them. I wish there was a specific part number to indicate which are green and which are not.
Hi Rob, I was just about to order the AD100 Pro today but after watching this video, I have withdrawn my order. Do you have any information if the Green colour cast issue is still present in AD100 Pro? I have already ordered AD300 Pro which is on the way. A bit worried if the AD300 Pro too have any such colour cast issue. @@robhallphoto
Doesn't the 804 on a V1 eat up more light than the 803, being denser? But quite honestly, the V1 that I recently received doesn't seem to have a green tint at all. So maybe Godox rectified the problem using your recommendation. Keep up the good work. Your videos are a great resource for all Godox/Flashpoint users.
Hi Rob, Just wanted to give you a heads up that it appears the green cast in the Xplor/AD100 Pro has been fixed in a recent hardware revision. I ordered about 10 of these from Adorama during the Black Friday 2022 sale. They were back ordered for a long time. The first few came in about 10 days ago, and the serial number is a bar code. The last 7 that arrived yesterday (Jan. 10, 2023) have a QR serial number and the front fresnel is clearly a different (more neutral color). I noticed it immediately as I was about to do the Lee 803 magenta gel hack. I've reached out to my pro rep at Adorama and I'm waiting on more details.
Excellent to hear - that's definitely the fix everyone deserved. I wonder if that has been done on the V1 as well. Also what this means for the AK-R22 diffusre.
Hopefully the one I ordered from Uk Amazon today will be fine.
@@Fauxleroid did you get the fixed one?
So what did you find out?
@@dannymoriarty1966 The Adorama folks didn't officially confirm this specific update, but did note that there was a "slight manufacturing change" that happened during the most recent production run.
I've been using them for at least a dozen weddings so far this year and can confirm that there is no noticeable color cast when using with other Godox lights or standalone. (I did notice the green cast before in my early production model) I've also mixed them with the gel-corrected light and things also seem to match nicely.
This issue has been fixed on the newer manufactured V1 I have. The newer models seem to have a QR serial number.
Yeah I think they are going this route with the 100 Pro as well.
I guess I'll be ordering a sheet of this gel... Really helpful, thanks!
You're the nerdiest! I love it. Truly impressive / comprehensive!
Thank you- this video solidified my decision on this product.
Hi Rob... Invaluable video as usual - Thank you again for sharing!!!
Super test and explanation; these products are so popular worldwide, all these information are very useful for us. Thanks Rob !
I have read the AD300 has a slight color cast. Have you checked this unit. I’d love to know the color balance on this unit before buying it. Thx for your great videos
You can not ask much of a free service but since you have the 1500 dollar Color meter: How about a new test now since Godoy don’t say anything but chances are it’s fixed by now? I sure appreciate all your Godox stuff!
LOL... omg Rob, how are you not in Godox's R&D team!! but seriously.. this is not a hard fix to get right at manufacturing stage, and its not like its their first go at flashes. Come on Godox, best to fix this, and get tint right out box! 👍
Thank you!!! I noticed this when I bought a V1. Wondered if I could believe my eyes …
I solved the problem by not using the AD100 when color is important, but use one of my AD200s instead. The AD100 is used only for single-light setups where I can easily color-correct the shot in post. And since color temperature changes with the power level: Guys, just don't buy the 100 right now, wait until the manufacturer has fixed the problem properly.
Same here. I still don’t give up on the AD100. A great “always in pocket” setup with the Fastbox 24, but in a multi light setup it goes behind as a gelled hairlight, background light, etc. Still Godox needs to fix this issue or at least offer replacement fresnels.
@@lubopaskov4346 - to be honest, I _am_ about to give up on my AD100. I'll try to fix it with a filter, if that does not yield satisfactory results I will simply sell the damn thing.
@@lubopaskov4346 - well, I _did_ give up on the AD100 - I sold mine today. For quick documentative shots (which was basically what I get the AD100 for) I reactivated an old Speedlight + cable. Works like a charm, and the colors are nigh perfect. And, just to be clear, I very much like Godox. Unlike E… or P… which are extremely and very overpriced respectively, Godox offers real value, and I would not want to miss my 200s, my 600 and not to forget my 1200, which more than once brightened up my day. And my apartment. And my neighborhood. But the 100s, sorry, but no thanks. Color is _it,_ if that doesn't work properly, a light is simply unusable.
@@mediocreman6323 “and the neighborhood” LOL
So this is why Godox AK-R22 is tinted with magenta (pink). Thanks for sharing.
I have a 2nd V1 I have never used…now I plan to “fix” my AD100 with its fresnel lens!
I haven't noticed any green tint with my ad100, neither on it's own nor when using it with my ad200. Still, this is good information to keep in mind. Thanks!
Was yours ordered recently? There’s always a chance that this has been changed, both of mine were very early in production but as far as I know there haven’t been changes. You really need a neutral background to notice it though.
If you have an AD200 round head, look at the lenses side by side and see if your 100 is more yellow/green.
@@robhallphoto It was bought in August. However, I use it outdoors, so maybe that's why I haven't noticed it.
@@robhallphoto I bought 2 AD100pro from Adorama last Black Friday. And those units also have that green tint. yesterday I run some test at home after I saw your video and you are right, LightRoom is correcting the white balance with +23 tint. It is going to be very frustrating when I will want to use those lights along with my AD300pro
Thx for the summary, just wondering how much light output is lost by using the filter?
You can look up the output loss of any specific gel online.
Great video, totally helps me out, tue ad100pro is such a great light for my aquarium shooting needs. Didn't want to spend the money for the profoto a2
Thanks John. Did you do a review on the Godox X2T
With these fixes, is there any concern for heat on those gels? Just curious. Great options though, if you got one of the earlier models before the corrected fresnels.
I just found they sell the V1 lens as a spare part for $30 … might be the actual fix for the AD100.
Still wondering why they went with a different lens for the AD100 if the V1 one would need no change. That's very weird.
Where are they selling the more neutral lens part?
Thanks for the valuable information. I also installed the filter you introduced. But I heard on a website that this V1 changes the color in every shot, and when I tried it, I found that the color temperature and color balance are actually different in every few photos. I am quite disappointed. Do you know about this? Please verify! By the way, when he sent it to the manufacturer as a repair, he was told that other V1s have the same phenomenon.
The V1 has incredibly consistent color for a speedlight. In my test, across the entire power range, the V1 produced a total Kelvin range of 238 (6588 max, 6350 min). That is +/- 120 which is extremely good for a speedlight, especially at such a low price. It performed more consistently than the FJ80. This was done in standard sync, I'm not sure how wide the range is in HSS.
So no, I can't say I share that experience of the color temperature changing wildly between photos, especially not if the power setting is consistent.
@@robhallphoto Thanks for the reply. Hmmm. Did you try several consecutive flashes with one setting? Anyway, one out of every few photos is mixed with a different color temperature and shell balance. The first sleuth I saw this report from asked the Japanese distributor for verification, and I was told that they saw the same results with other solids as a response to their testing. By the way, this is for Sony E-mount.
@@ponyonyo3805 yes I've tried successive fires, the color temperature varies even less when power level is consistent.
@@robhallphoto The series of shots I tried were all single shots with at least 1 second between them, and I also tried 1/64 output with the same results. Why the reported results occur is a mystery, there may be some problem with the charge between each shot, but I have not seen any change in exposure. I have not tried with all the other lenses I own, such as TT685, V860II, AD200, AD360, AD400, AD1200, etc., but I would like to test with them as well when I have time.
I also like using color meters. Good for you. Nice videos
Great video. Are there a fairly comparably priced alternative strobes you would recommend? Ones that don’t need alteration upon purchase.
AD200 / AD200 Pro.
@@robhallphoto thank you.
I was planning to buy the V1 in the couple of days. Now i'm thinking if i should wait
Thanks Rob. This is very helpful video .
Thanks for the heads up, do you know if the round head attachment for the AD200 Pro has any color casts as well?
Tested the AD100pro (4 of them) against the AD300pro. Tint wise AD100 now matches AD300 but the color temp of AD100 is average 7200K while the AD300 color temp is around 6400K so can't use them together. I don't understand Godox.
Thanks Rob! Have my filter coming tomorrow.
Thanks very much for your information. I guess I’ll be giving Adorama more money since I don’t find the 804’s anywhere else. Since that’s where I bought the Zoom Lu-on. Very disappointed in godox and flashpoint for this.
hey Rob, any chance you might get to review new third generation of QT's, QT1200III QT600III
I'd be interested in that too.
have you found anywhere that sells just the gel holder. In the Uk I have to buy accessory kit just to get additional gel holders or a holder with a large selection of gels.
In the US, yes, you can buy them independently from Adorama. But I do not know of anywhere outside the US.
Now I'm wondering if the AD200 round head has a similar issue. I really only use the bare bulb, but was thinking of picking up a round head for lighting a shoot through umbrella once in a while.
That was what I was wondering but I believe there is not a problem with the AD200pro. Rob indicated the AD200Pro has exceptional color balance in this video. I have the AD200Pro and I am pleased.
The round head on the AD200 does not have a tint issue. It uses a barebulb inside a reflector, not a flash tube. Also there’s just the diffusion glass, no fresnel/diffuser glass elements.
Thanks Rob! I also read that the V1 TTL does not work with the vello off camera shoe cord. I have found this to be true. Have you experienced this? Any alternative cords that you know of?
Do any of the GODOX V-11T COLOUR TEMPERATURE ADJUSTMENT SET filters work well with the V1? It has a 1/2, 1/4, and 1/8th minus green.
The 1/8 minus green is exactly equivalent to the Lee 279 (it's also written on the V11T box), which is equivalent to the Lee 803 mentioned by Rob; the 279 is described by Kee as for use with flash on film, the 803 with use of led lights in digital. The 279, or 1/8 green, is more easy to find then the 803, at least in Europe.
I can see you fixed the tint issue. What about the kelvin? 7000k is not neutral.
It’s 7500k with the lenses off, not with them on.
Maybe Godox will sell the V1 lens as a part for AD100 users? Seems like a better solution
Have you tested the AD300? Have seen various reports of tinting. Even today at ImagingUSA in Nashville ran into other photogs who had that issue.
Looking to move into a new lighting system from Phottix as they failed to expand their lineup. Would really appreciate any info on the AD300.
I have and there is no tint (in standard sync) on either of my AD300 Pros. Wouldn't make sense for it to experience this same issue as this issue is simply the fresnel lenses trying to offset the color of the flash tube, neither of which are on any of the barebulb units.
crazy that Godox even has this issue, do they not test before release ?
Thanks for the summary!
Rob… do you know if this problem affects the roundhead for the AD200 as well?
it does not.
@@robhallphoto Awesome. Thanks Rob. Why am I not surprised you knew the answer. Always on point. Much appreciated.
Any update, Rob? How is your gel doing after 6 months? 🙂
You should add links to the description of the video for the Lee filters... a quick search on Amazon yielded no results.
Have both of these flashes and I'm noticing the colour imbalance now as my photography eye develops. I wonder though, does putting the gel in the unit make it likely to melt? I ask because I used one of the gels that came with my AD100 and it slightly melted to the diffuser that I stacked on top of it.
Really depends on the quality of gel. Some cheap bulk gel pack - could have issues. But most high quality gels are designed to withstand a lot more heat than the 100 Pro puts out. So far, I rocked them at 1/2 +.3 power for over 100 consecutive shots, and had no issues.
@@robhallphoto Yeah I looked at the ones you were suggesting after I wrote that and it appears they are designed to withstand the heat, thanks
Is the gel that melted part of the Godox V-11t pack?
@@ericgrayphoto I think it's just something the seller threw in.
Ok. Now I'm really curious to know how much correction would you need in different power level if you used V1 Fresnel lens in AD100 Pro. If it was perfect in 1/16 power. I would assume it wouldn't change that much?
It wouldn't change much. 1/16 is middle of the road and if I recall correctly it only got .1 higher at 1/128 and 1/256 which you really have to look to see.
@@robhallphoto thanks for this info. I actually might just change Fresnel lens of my AD100 Pro because I've managed to burn couple filters already.
Can you actually order the 100 pro fresnel?
Interesting thought, if you lose power adding the gel, would you gain power using the v1 glass because it's got a lower amount of tint?
Probably, but likely very little.
Time for an update about the new color corrected fresnel. Although it’s unclear where/how to reliably source one…
I've done some tests myself, looks like my units v1 or ad100 cooling effect is more a problem than the green tint versus my AD400pro, maybe, those are more recent ones? Or older?
With the Godox V1, is there also a need to correct the white balance in that the output is around 6200K whereas most flash strobes are spec’ed to 5400K? Would an additional ¼ CTO help in addition to the correction for the tint? The color temperature is always an issue for me when swapping my Nikon speedlights and the V1.
most lights (at least Godox) are over 6000k when bare.
What about the filters that come in the ak-r1 filter kit. It has 3 of the warming filters. Did you try those to see what they do? Isn't this what they are for? Maybe they are just too much than a small correction. But I assume you have them to try.
Warming plays on the temperature axis (same as the Kelvin settings in your camera). Tint is on the magenta-green axis.
Excellent video, thank you
Thanks for the summary
Lee filters are not available in our country. Will one of the minus green filters in godox v-11T work? Thanks.ü
The 1/8 minus green is equivalent to the 803
My V1, purchased 14 months ago, does not have green cast.
Maybe the flash becomes a little more magenta after a certain amount of use and they kind of gave it a little headroom so it would balance out over time.
I bought this AD100 Pro just yesterday and I wondered why the lens is so Greenish yellow. It makes sense now. It is unacceptable for a $300 light to have this much shift in color cast. Godox certainly cheaped out with this product.
I mean it's really not unacceptable considering equally expensive and even more expensive have greater magenta casts than this one has green.
@@robhallphoto Yes it is unacceptable when they could easily fix this with a V1 lens. It is most likely a mistake on the production line and Godox being a cheaper Chinese manufacturer diddn’t want to loose money on the already produced units. Do not defend a brand blindly.
Love the video! Any chance you can release the colour cast at all power levels data so we can look for a local/available gel solution in different countries?
CC03M / .3M gel would be the compensation you're looking for on the 100 Pro
I know this is an old review, but haven't Godox fixed the green colour cast now?
so the gels that come with the V1 kit are useless to fix the colour cast?
Have you found green tint on other flashes? I'm constantly editing out green. Ad600 original, ad300pro, ad200, ad1200pro. I'm curious if you found them in other flashes
anyone heard if godox will adress this green color cast ?
Thanks for this fix. Sucks we have to do this but at least it's not a difficult or expensive fix. Ugh.
Thanks heaps for this, shame I live in Australia and can't get stuff from Adorama.
Partly why I'm interested in the data for each power level.
I know in Aus we can get the Godox V-11T gel kit which has a few minus green filters
Hey Rob so can we assume Godox 860ii flash doesn't suffer from this?
Yes.
I always thought my V1’s were firing more warm than green tint! Great tip thanks man 🤙🏼
how is 685 and 860 ?same problem ? the please if you have Sekonic Spectrometer to see Ra 9 and 12,CRI and Kelvin temp
Don’t have them.
@@robhallphoto 🤦
Thanks!
Tell me why this is a bad idea: use the ad100 with an x2 trigger and a short cold shoe magic arm as an on camera flash instead of the v1.
I hope they come out with a metal shoe for the TT685's
Great video 👌
Godox actually released the colored ad100, red, pink, blue, GREEN, to make them look cool and hipster enough.
But did't fix the real real problem.
This says a lot to me, and I'm really sorry to observe it..
Was abou to buy a coupole, but, nop, not at this condition, at all.
I've read that those LEE Zircon Filters are not "Flame Resistant" couldn't that lead to problems when firing multiple 1/1 flashes after another?
For now I’m just going to keep using my AD200s.
Anyone tried Godox v-11 T or C gels? V-11T contains 1 more, does anyone know, if it is the relevant one? I own AD100, it seems to have the green tint, I intend to buy the V1, it should be fixed nowdays?
I can now answer my own question. V-11T gel collection corrects it. It is not perfect, but almost. The magnetic diffusor dome corrects it a little bit already, by the way. If I use the lightest purple (weakest minus green) and lightest blue gel in the adaptor, it makes it a little bit to purple, I think, but I find it more preferable, than the too green and too warm unmodified state. So, I use the dome + pruple + blue gel.
Has anyone checked out the H200R round flash head for the AD200?
does the h200r have a greenish cast also?
no.
Shared with Godox.
Does anyone know if the AD200 (not the Pro) and TT685 original have any tint issues??
no. they dont.
@@robhallphoto thanks 👍
I guess buying a V1 replacement glass would be a good solution
Adorama does not ship to the UK.
any evidence that the ad200 round head shares the same tint?
No the AD200 is tint free. It's completely different, it's not a speedlight tube behind 2 lenses, it's a barebulb behind diffusion glass.
I'd love to see a video of you measuring each godox flash with your color meter to see if there are tints and the correction gel
In their regular modes, AD200 / 400 Pro / 600 Pro / 1200 Pro have 0 - .1 Tint levels across their entire power range. In HSS, different story. The reason I wouldn't make a stink about it in the other units though is modifiers. The V1 and 100 Pro are much more likely to be used without modification, either directly or via bounce. With the others, not only do they have less tint issues, but what little they do have is often minimized through light modifiers
My a D 100 pro have yellowish orange cast
in standard sync or HSS?
Why not put the V1 lens on the ad100 and just correct the ad100 lens on the V1.
Well that could be a solution for me but not necessarily a solution for everyone as they may not have both.
@@robhallphoto have you worked out which filter to use with the V1 that has the AD100 lens? It seems like it would need to be different than the 803 the AD100 would have needed since they didn’t have matching magenta casts to start with…
Cool
Not available for my country
I've never seen a colour cast on my V1 or AD100s
Such a silly thing given all they had to do was re-use the exisiting V1 part.... but a bit like the sagging tilt handles (on the ad400/300pro), could easily use a heavier duty part like what they have on the ad600pro/S2 bracket but rather put their fingers in their ears