I've probably watched this video a half a dozen times or more in the past week in preparation. I've never done anything like this nor have I ever had a person in my life that could show me how to do this. Yesterday I rented an auger, completely underestimated how difficult it would be to drill through clay soil when I only weigh 150lbs and I got four gate posts in the ground successfully. I mixed concrete in a hole and learned its not an exact science. I may never use those post levels again, but that was a solid $14 well spent (I bought two). Thank you for taking the time to put this out there ❤
YES!!! 🔥🔥🔥 Congratulations on getting your posts set! I’m seriously soooooo happy for you!! I’m also super happy that this video was helpful. This is why I create these videos. Now go have an awesome day!!
I have been a tradesman for about 15 years now, i weigh 170 and i can tell you that shit is tough. I did 14 holes this week with an auger just like the one this guy had. 42” deep each one. It was brutal
@@kevinnorris6157 100% - When I did these holes, we were in the middle of a drought… the ground was like concrete. The auger struggled. I think I lost 10 pounds that day. 🤣
@@kevinnorris6157lol. I just did only two with my son (4 feet deep and about 3 feet of it was clay). Currently on 1000mg of Naproxen and on the couch. But this video was excellent help.
@@kevinnorris6157 If you have a lot of posts say a pasture and the area is open enough, probably best to rent an auger from a big box store you connect to a hitch of a vehicle. Putting up fencing is no joke:)
BRO!!! That is ME to a T! Never had a grandpa, I had a dad but he didn’t teach me anything! Thank God for UA-cam! I always feel so stupid and clueless when I go to Home Depot to look at/for stuff!! I’d kill to have a mechanically inclined brain!! I’ve made myself start doing light woodworking as a hobby in the last year to help me somewhat!
@@ReluctantDIYers honestly dude, I live in a culdesac where every house (10 houses) have a front porch except mine; so I really want to figure out how to build one myself. Do you think that’s a video you could do? I would need a step by step very detailed-for-beginners type of video! Just thought I’d throw it out there! I’ve watched other videos but they’re very confusing for someone like myself
@kyleallen1858 If I can find the opportunity to create this video, I’ll do it. At the moment, I don’t see any potential porch projects in the near future.
Thank you for this video. I've never worked with concrete or setting fence posts before and this video was an excellent guide. I now have a new fence in my back yard and I couldn't be happier with it.
Just graduated college and living at home with my parents. They are not DIY/handy people so I'm the one obsessed with repairing things, one of which being our decorative little fence at the end of our driveway. Thank you for the tips!!
Thanks for the info bud. Watched this a few hours ago and now ive got 3 level posts in the ground for a small privacy fence. UA-cam and creators like you are awesome!
"Technical Terminology" ... Posts are supposed to be vertical, so you want them to be PLUMB (not "level"). "Level" means that something is perfectly horizontal. "Plumb" means that something is perfectly vertical.
Thanks! They really make a huge difference. I finished 6 more posts last night for a fence project (video coming soon). I feel like I get better with this process the more I do it.
I'm about to install 3 4x4x8 square treated wood posts and I'm glad i watched this video, it definitely pointed out some issue's with my original plan and would have cost me 💰, thank you for the perspective you've got a sub
I have one of those 10 x 12 metal shed that I use has a temporary workshop. I needed to mount an air hose reel, but the structure will not hold it, so I came up with the idea. The idea was to put a 4 x 4 post in the ground outside of the shed, problem was I never set a post or know how to mix concrete. Your post was extremly helpful wan will cut down time and money wasted. Thanks for the great video.
I'm in Gatineau and about to build my first fence. Dumb question, but does the wood have to go all the way down below the frost line too? Or can I dig down 42", fill with concrete, and have the post only be in the top 24" of concrete? The fence will be 6' tall so I'd like to buy 8' boards. Would that work?
@@xSLWRTHNUx It is recommended to go below the frost line if this is a concern in your area. Given the height of your fence,if this was my fence, I would definitely be going deeper in the ground than 2 feet.
Starting a job tomorrow doing this for the very first time. Super nervous, always less confident in myself and my anxiety is going crazy. I just don’t wanna mess up :/ thanks for the video! Gonna study it over and over the next few hours lol
@@SamuelLentz just an every now and then thing tbh, but no issues, not saying I did every little thing in the video, but it definitely helped me to certain extents.
What I've done many times over many years for mailboxes, fences, etc.: Dig hole. Put a shovel full of mixed cement into bottom of hole. Carefully lower post into hole. Put dirt on top of cement at the bottom. Tamp. Add more dirt and tamp until about 8 inches from top of hole. Fill the rest of the hole with mixed cement to ground level. Toss a little dirt over the exposed cement to slow the curing. Let the cement set up, then come back and finish the top surface as you wish for cosmetics. What this does is form a concrete doughnut at the top and bottom of the hole. The post will be solid and will only require about a third of a bag of concrete mix. I did my mailbox this way over 30 years ago and it's still solid as a rock. Methinks someone is selling you more concrete mix than you need . . . good marketing! --Old guy
I think your method of poring half a bag at a time is good advice. In my experience the gallon of water never seems to be all soaked up by the concrete and it sets too fast/gets too hard (for me) to poke holes in it to allow the water to flow to the bottom. I think Quikrete recommends a little less than a gallon of water per bag but I could be wrong. If doing two bags per hole than definitely do halg bag then water.
I would even maybe go a quarter of a bag if you're going to use these otherwise it's difficult to stir and to make sure that you do a thorough job. If you're using more than one bag in a hole, I wouldn't worry about how much water you use initially. It's fine if it's somewhat soupy at first because it will be easier to stir and it will actually give you more time before it sets, you can always add more cement and then more water if you have deep holes. I had 3-foot-deep holes about the same diameter as his and it took me 3 bags per hole. I also used extra water when I got to the last few inches, it gave it a nice smooth and flat consistency, if you care about that anyways.
1. You don't need more than an inch on either side. 1.5 times the post diameter is plenty. 2. Gravel doesn't do anything when you are using concrete... the concrete just encapsulates the gravel. 3. Yo don't need post stabilizers if you're using quick set. It only takes about a minute or two before it will stand on its own. Great video for beginners. Thank you
For setting posts that aren't part of a fence or structure (such as posts for mailboxes, retractable hose coils, etc.) I've always used a much quicker/dirtier method. Dig the hole so at least the bottom 1/3rd of the post sets in there below grade, dump an entire bag of fast-setting Quikrete into the hole, then just soak it with a hose. Level the post. Walk away, come back in a few hours. Post should be solid. Backfill with whatever you dug out of the hole. Post done. I've never used gravel...likely an important step for fence or deck posts that need to remain level w/proper drainage below the posts. My mailbox post hasn't gone out-of-level or moved even slightly in over 7 years with the freeze/thaw cycles and harsh winters we have in Western NY. Cedar 4x4's are perfect for these quick and dirty one-off posts...cedar should last 20+ years.
This is gold. I use more concrete though. 120 lbs for 6 foot fence and twice that for an 8 footer. That’s still less than the pros recommend but way more than 1 bag.
i know it doesn't look as nice, but wouldnt having the concrete up to the ground level (and even a little higher) be better? that way water wouldn't pool at the top of the post? thanks! great video.
Thanks for the video! I set the concrete for three fence posts, but the extracted soil is very dry and hardened. I was thinking about breaking the big chunks apart with a hammer and moistening it throughout the day before refilling. I was also thinking about buying a steel tamper and stomping the soil around it afterwords. Is this the correct way to go about this?
In climates where frost / freezing occurs, you need to consider the frost line. In Michigan, code dictates a depth of 42" to avoid heaving. Really glad I found this video to see the Johnson Post and Pipe Level. My local hardware has it in stock, so I'll be picking it up in the morning! I was searching for an example of using two 2x4s to stabilize the post, but I'm thinking of following @twoalward9166's advice and just holding it in place until it sets, especially since I'll be using the Johnson Post and Pipe Level and won't need to fumble around with a standard level.
Great advice on the frost line! Those post and pipe levels were a true game changer for me… I was so happy when I found them. I hope you enjoy them as much as I do! 👍🏼👍🏼
The previous owner of our home mounted the mailbox on 4" diameter concrete fill steel pipe (Lolly column). My neighbor said it goes at least 4 feet into the ground. He saw it put in. I've often wondered what would happen if a car ran into it.
Am I understanding correctly that you position the first and last post where you want them (via 2 x 4 braces), then run the mason/string line? Any chance the first and last post move before everything is set in concrete? Or do you need to have the first and last posts set in concrete before doing the others? My main issue is that I'm cutting concrete and then digging the hole underneath and can put a stake in the ground to set up a string line.
Great question. My preferred way of doing this is to get those corner posts in the exact position that they need to be before setting or digging for any of the other posts. This gives me the cleanest line between the corner posts to ensure that the posts in between lineup exactly with those corners. It would be ideal to set those corners in concrete first, but you don’t have to do it that way. You could just put stakes in the ground and then run your line between them.
@ReluctantDIYers So since I am on concrete. It sounds like I need to drill special holes in the concrete for my stakes. And then run the line and fill in those small holes later?
@@nicholasdupont2468 Do you have the ability to set the stakes off the edge of the concrete in a way that the line would pass through the exact location where you will be cutting and digging your posts?
That’s a big post, but you would need at least a good 3 feet underground for that, IMHO. Driving in an 8 ft T post is a pain to do, but that could work, depending on what it’s for.
If this is just for a basic fence or similar application and a lot of side pressure won't be exerted on the posts, I think you're fine with a 10 ft post. I've had two 10 ft posts in the ground only 1.5 ft deep for the last 12 years and they're doing fine. The posts are two of the anchor points for a shade sail, which I have quite a bit of tension on. They're cedar posts though, which are more durable. But cedar is way too expensive lately. I'd use pressure treated pine or fir and maybe add a few coats of paint, roofing cement, or something to the 2 ft that makes ground contact - not necessary, but might add a few years of life.
I found it easiest to dig the hole then pour in the already mixed concrete to about half the depth of the hole then jostle the 4x4 down into the wet concrete mix about 6 to 8 inches then adjust the 4x4 to the string line and then level up the post. I then fill in rest of the wet concrete around the post and let concrete set up and then come back later and cut the top of 4x4 post to the correct height.
I found just level ur post to ur string and pour in ur wet concrete and ur done…. I’ve set thousands of posts and I’ve found this to be the fastest most efficient way.
you mention concrete a few inches below the dirt (from the top), won't that rot the top of the post early? is it not better to have concrete to the top so water runs off to dirt? Curious as have tried where filled in dirt above and post rotted so although not a lot of testing.. it's current observation.. thoughts?
This has been a highly debated question in comments here and on TikTok. Running concrete to the top is an approach you can take. I have left the few inches open because I want grass to grow right next to my posts. This approach has worked well for me in the past. However, if you’re seeing rot in a short period of time with a treated post, you may want to push the concrete higher. 👍🏼👍🏼
So for the 2ft deep and 8in width how many bags did you use? The table on the side of the bag says 3 bags but seems like a lot.. 150lb of concrete?? Is imagine 2 would suffice. Says to use 4 bags if doing 12in holes... the fast setting stuff isn't too cheap so it quickly adds up
Thanks! That seems more reasonable, I'm getting rdy to buy material and wanted to plan accordingly. I'll also be doing the same dimensions depth and hole size as you did. I'll get a few xtra bags for safe measure but not expecting to use them.
Curious, shouldn't the depth of the post account for the frost line in the area you live? I think it's a valid point to include for diyers who may not be familiar with the purpose. So say your frost line is 48" and you want a 6' high fence. Wouldn't you need a 12' long post [6' above ground and a little longer than 4' below ground]? Then cut off the remaining amount. So the depth of the hole should account for the frost line (48") + the depth of the gravel, say 6" + a few inches for the post to be below the frost line so the hole should be 56-58" deep. Is that correct?
@@__m__e__ It’s been a while since I recorded this, but I recall saying something about 3x the width of the post is what’s recommended but that I didn’t want to dig such a big hole and use so much concrete. You’re right though. That is recommended. I’ve had zero issues with mine. 👍🏼
Can anyone tell me how many bags of quick Crete I will need (or what you used), so I know how much I should buy? 4x4. Post, 12” diameter hole 2’ deep. Same as video.
Two options… 1. Do the math on your hole depth, factoring in the grade of your land (BOOOOO… I don’t like this one). Or 2. Set your posts, then hit them with a laser level, mark the posts, and cut the top off with a circular saw so they are all the same height. That’s what I did. 👍🏼👍🏼
Q..I need a 4x4 post for a water hose reel I’ve never used concrete after I get the post straight do I mix the water and mud in the bucket then pour or pour water in hole then concrete and mix it?
Great question! A lot of people will tell you to mix the concrete before you put it in the hole, and that is a great approach. I prefer to purchase the Quikrete that you can mix in the hole to save time. With that, you pour the concrete mix in the hole and then the water. I’ve done this a ton and it works really well. 👍🏼👍🏼
Hey there, I've been looking at 2 to 3 ft stakes that can be used instead of the dreaded hole digging. Do les anyone have experience with these? Just want to install a 4ft high cedar picket fence for the small pups.
Would rather have the option to move or remove as needed vs permanently cementing in. Just want to be sire that it's secure and safe for the pups. Thanks
@@tarynsanmartino8930 You could do T-stakes that you pound into the ground and then hook your fencing to that. I did this as a temporary fence for our vegetable garden for years.
I am putting in a much larger/sturdier mail box Existing box is el cheapo on a 4x4 Going to put (2) new 4x4s back to back from sidewalk to road Will pre-drill horizontal upper/lower new holes into 4x4s attach with carriage bolts washers nuts Take pineapple juice can cut both ends off, cut vertically attach to 4x4s as a weed eater deflector may need (2) cans to cover complete diameter of both 4x4s Then take chain link fence post, install it before the mailbox maybe 5ft as a deflector for vehicle mirrors that get to close to box as it’s been hit couple times and think USPS actually hit it We live on a 4 lane 45mph rd, need to do this on a weekend less traffic Already called 811 to notify utilities to mark grass and I took pics to verify their respective markings Will park vehicle on grass strip and block sidewalk about 50 ft away as a visual for drivers headed my way When 4x4s installed concrete drying I will make the wood support the mailbox will sit on, then attach the following weekend gOOd vid TYVM
Yeah I don't know why all the rapid set concrete brands recommend putting the whole bag in then adding water, the water never seems to penetrate all the way down when done that way.
You are missing one of the most important parts, heat shrink wrap the water level area of the post from surface to under ground section. Otherwise, it will just rot at the area where the post sits in touch with the ground water.
Check your local county ordinances. My local county requires metal sheathing around post before pouring concrete. If your a DIYer, go for it. When I replaced my wooden mailbox post which had rotted, I just dug hoe deeper, put in post and put in concrete, whatever.
I think it is easier and better to mix quick crete with a little water at a time in a wheel barrow to a creamy consistency. Best not to gamble it does not mix completely with liquid. Also, bring mix to gerund level. Why have dirt touching wood- not good
These bags are quick drying but the allure for me was that they made it seem like you could just pour a bag in a hole and add 1 gallon of water which is total BS. I poured a quarter of a bag in the ground and added some water and took a stick to stir it and everything except the surface was still dry. So, unless you actually need something to set up fast don't bother with these because other than that the pour in the ground and just add water is a gimmick which you pay more for and get less cement than other bags. Next time I'll just buy regular cement mix it in a wheelbarrow and pour it into the hole, it's far quicker and far cheaper considering these 50lb bags cost the same as 80lb bags.
Yea there’s absolutely no need to screw in those 2x4s to keep it level. Just mix ur concrete before hand, then pour it in and level ur post, and as long as your concrete is mixed properly it will hold the post level
Thanks for your question! If this was construction that was going to hold an actual structure on posts/pillars, I would go for the frost line. For a basic backyard fence, it’s not a concern IMHO. 👍🏼
You would want to go 6 inches below whatever your local frost line is. In my area it is 18 inches so I set my posts 24 inches deep. The goal is to avoid frost heave, which will happen to a basic backyard fence. The posts will get out of plumb and the fence will lean.
I've set miles of fence posts for corrals and horse pastures..don't use concrete..just use gravel, fill the hole up to 25% and tamp the gravel with a devils stick ( tamp rod).. set the post level and continue filling at about 25% or little less and tamping..you'll discover you can adjust plumb perfectly by tamping ..it will be a "rock" hard set and the post will last twice as long bc water drains away..concrete holds water and lessens the life span..you're fence will be stronger, last longer and more importantly..you will too !
Just set half a dozen posts in my yard with tamped gravel and clay, they are rock solid. The thought of digging up 80lb concrete slugs from under rotted posts in 5-10 years was too much. When the posts rot they will be way easier to replace this way.
PLUS.. THE WATER WILL NOW DRAIN AWAY FROM POSTS..CONCRETE HOLDS ITS ORIGINAL MOISTURE FOR MONTHS AND THEN AS POST SHRINKS ( THESE DAYS THEY SHRINK FAST) FUTURE RAIN IS HELD AGAINST POST BY CONCRETE..NO MORE LABOR TO PACK GRAVEL THAN MIXING CONCRETE.
I think I don't actually know for sure but it would probably be to expensive to use concrete on a ranch job cuz those posts probably catch a lot more wear and tear
This hole is like 8" in diameter, from my experience, almost 5 out of 5 the concrete crack block cracked on the top surface after a few years. I am thinking there isn't enough concrete from the corner of the 4x4 to the edge of the 8" round concrete, barely like 1.5". Surely it isn't much. I did a hole of 10" diameter, using the same 4x4, that post is the best, holding the 4x4 very sturdy and NO signs of cracking at all. This is in Toronto weather.
I would think you want the concrete above finished grade not 4” below. Now water is going to accumulated on top of the concrete and rot the wood out 4 inches below grade
its ok until the last part where you fill in the top part with dirt. That ground to wood contact is a problem. It's not wrong, but it's going to result in greatly reduced lifespan of the posts. as compared to another method that avoids the ground to wood contact. The post will rot quickly at this part of the post. I did this and had to pull and replace within 5 years. A better way is to use a form and wet concrete and build up the concrete 3 inches above ground with the top sloped away from post. There are at least two other videos that describe this.
Never finish by leaving it 3 or 4 inch short then top up with soil. The soil will contribute to rotting. Bring the concrete above and taper off so that rain water will run off. Also if you are doing many posts, i suggest wearing a protective mask. Breathing in cement dust is. Killer.
My brother in christ. 12in circumference for a 4x4 post would have a hole diameter of 3.8in. You're saying to make a hole smaller than the post. Did you mean 8-12in diameter, as opposed to circumference?
It literally says on the Post Mix bag to put all the dry mix in. That will hold the post without braces. The concrete will harden over time from moisture from the surrounding soil and air. No need to add water, which will not make your post any stronger. Put the mix in dry and walk away...
Looks good except the dirt. DO NOT PUT DIRT BACK IN HOLE. Anywhere the dirt touches the post, it will rot. And fence won't last but few years. Build concrete up above hole and form it around post so post won't be touching the yard
It is completely unnecessary to brace your posts like that. They will remain plumb with zero issues without the bracing. This is one of the biggest mistakes I see DIYer’s do.
MAKE SURE you check the building code for your location!! In the south, because of all of the rain they get, you CANNOT bury a post in the ground. You have to dig a hole and fill it with concrete with a metal post bracket in the cement and then the post attaches to the bracket - ABOVE GROUND.
I've probably watched this video a half a dozen times or more in the past week in preparation. I've never done anything like this nor have I ever had a person in my life that could show me how to do this. Yesterday I rented an auger, completely underestimated how difficult it would be to drill through clay soil when I only weigh 150lbs and I got four gate posts in the ground successfully. I mixed concrete in a hole and learned its not an exact science. I may never use those post levels again, but that was a solid $14 well spent (I bought two). Thank you for taking the time to put this out there ❤
YES!!! 🔥🔥🔥 Congratulations on getting your posts set! I’m seriously soooooo happy for you!! I’m also super happy that this video was helpful. This is why I create these videos.
Now go have an awesome day!!
I have been a tradesman for about 15 years now, i weigh 170 and i can tell you that shit is tough. I did 14 holes this week with an auger just like the one this guy had. 42” deep each one. It was brutal
@@kevinnorris6157 100% - When I did these holes, we were in the middle of a drought… the ground was like concrete. The auger struggled. I think I lost 10 pounds that day. 🤣
@@kevinnorris6157lol. I just did only two with my son (4 feet deep and about 3 feet of it was clay). Currently on 1000mg of Naproxen and on the couch. But this video was excellent help.
@@kevinnorris6157 If you have a lot of posts say a pasture and the area is open enough, probably best to rent an auger from a big box store you connect to a hitch of a vehicle. Putting up fencing is no joke:)
I'm the king of reluctance 😂 I've never had a father or any male figure to teach me shit! So as a middle-aged dude I'm clueless,thanks for the help
❤️❤️ This is the reason I created this channel, so we could have a group of people to help each other out. 👍🏼👍🏼 I’m so happy this was helpful!
BRO!!! That is ME to a T! Never had a grandpa, I had a dad but he didn’t teach me anything! Thank God for UA-cam! I always feel so stupid and clueless when I go to Home Depot to look at/for stuff!! I’d kill to have a mechanically inclined brain!! I’ve made myself start doing light woodworking as a hobby in the last year to help me somewhat!
YEAH!!! That’s awesome that you’re doing that! I hope you like the videos I’ve created. If you want to see anything specific, please let me know. 👍🏼
@@ReluctantDIYers honestly dude, I live in a culdesac where every house (10 houses) have a front porch except mine; so I really want to figure out how to build one myself. Do you think that’s a video you could do? I would need a step by step very detailed-for-beginners type of video! Just thought I’d throw it out there! I’ve watched other videos but they’re very confusing for someone like myself
@kyleallen1858 If I can find the opportunity to create this video, I’ll do it. At the moment, I don’t see any potential porch projects in the near future.
Thank you for this video. I've never worked with concrete or setting fence posts before and this video was an excellent guide. I now have a new fence in my back yard and I couldn't be happier with it.
AWESOME!!! I’m so happy this was helpful. Congratulations on your new fence!! 🔥🔥🔥
Just graduated college and living at home with my parents. They are not DIY/handy people so I'm the one obsessed with repairing things, one of which being our decorative little fence at the end of our driveway. Thank you for the tips!!
You’re welcome! Have fun!
Thanks for the info bud. Watched this a few hours ago and now ive got 3 level posts in the ground for a small privacy fence. UA-cam and creators like you are awesome!
AWESOME!!! I’m soooo happy it helped. Thanks for the feedback! Now go enjoy that fence (once it’s done) 👍🏼👍🏼
"Technical Terminology" ... Posts are supposed to be vertical, so you want them to be PLUMB (not "level").
"Level" means that something is perfectly horizontal. "Plumb" means that something is perfectly vertical.
Followed your directions and it came out great!.. thank you.
AWESOME!! Nice work!!
I’m watching here in the uk and I can tell you categorically, your presentation is 100% . Thank you 👍
Thank you so much! Cheers! 👍🏼👍🏼
If we’re grading here, he circumference not diameter so not 100%
@@kyleluttrell5411 HAHAHAHAHAHA… true
My wife and I are about to set 2 posts in the backyard following these great instructions.
Thanks!!
Awesome!!!! I hope it goes well! Let me know how it turns out. 👍🏼👍🏼
@@ReluctantDIYers turned out amazing!
Followed your video to a T and everything went smooth
@@MeezyPeezy YEAH!!! I’m so happy this was helpful! Have a great day! 👍🏼
Nice tutorial, I followed a similar process on my last build and have the same Johnson post level. These are a game changer!
Thanks! They really make a huge difference. I finished 6 more posts last night for a fence project (video coming soon). I feel like I get better with this process the more I do it.
@@ReluctantDIYers I’ll have to check it out and I agree with you. More reps makes you more efficient.
@@inspiringbuilds 👍👍
I'm about to install 3 4x4x8 square treated wood posts and I'm glad i watched this video, it definitely pointed out some issue's with my original plan and would have cost me 💰, thank you for the perspective you've got a sub
I’m seriously so happy this was helpful! 👍🏼👍🏼
I have one of those 10 x 12 metal shed that I use has a temporary workshop. I needed to mount an air hose reel, but the structure will not hold it, so I came up with the idea. The idea was to put a 4 x 4 post in the ground outside of the shed, problem was I never set a post or know how to mix concrete. Your post was extremly helpful wan will cut down time and money wasted. Thanks for the great video.
I’m so happy this was helpful! I hope that air hose reel works out well. 👍🏼
Your video was excellent. Thanks!!
I’m so glad you liked it! 👍🏼👍🏼
TY ! Great video for DIY’ers ( at least trying )
@@robert_b9251 Thanks!
Here in Quebec, ground can freeze to 3' deep, so we usually dig to 42" with a concrete base for stability.
Thank you for sharing this! The frost line is a definite concern in that case.
I'm in Gatineau and about to build my first fence. Dumb question, but does the wood have to go all the way down below the frost line too? Or can I dig down 42", fill with concrete, and have the post only be in the top 24" of concrete? The fence will be 6' tall so I'd like to buy 8' boards. Would that work?
@@xSLWRTHNUx It is recommended to go below the frost line if this is a concern in your area. Given the height of your fence,if this was my fence, I would definitely be going deeper in the ground than 2 feet.
Starting a job tomorrow doing this for the very first time. Super nervous, always less confident in myself and my anxiety is going crazy. I just don’t wanna mess up :/ thanks for the video! Gonna study it over and over the next few hours lol
Good luck! You’ve got this!! Let me know how it goes. 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
You still setting fences? How much of this info from the video did your boss/foreman say was wrong for whatever reason?
@@ReluctantDIYers went really well! Thanks again I’ve gotta admit it helped me a lot
@@SamuelLentz just an every now and then thing tbh, but no issues, not saying I did every little thing in the video, but it definitely helped me to certain extents.
@ AWESOME! I’m so happy this helped!!
What I've done many times over many years for mailboxes, fences, etc.: Dig hole. Put a shovel full of mixed cement into bottom of hole. Carefully lower post into hole. Put dirt on top of cement at the bottom. Tamp. Add more dirt and tamp until about 8 inches from top of hole. Fill the rest of the hole with mixed cement to ground level. Toss a little dirt over the exposed cement to slow the curing. Let the cement set up, then come back and finish the top surface as you wish for cosmetics.
What this does is form a concrete doughnut at the top and bottom of the hole. The post will be solid and will only require about a third of a bag of concrete mix. I did my mailbox this way over 30 years ago and it's still solid as a rock. Methinks someone is selling you more concrete mix than you need . . . good marketing! --Old guy
@@clarencegreen3071 Love this! Thanks for sharing!
Very helpful and practical - thanks so much!
@@jeremyzimmerman5603 You’re welcome! I’m so happy this helped! 👍🏼👍🏼
Thank you Sir. This was an excellent instruction video.
Thank you for watching! 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Many thanks- a very helpful video.
@@eamonnjohnotoole8627 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼 I’m so happy this was helpful!
I think your method of poring half a bag at a time is good advice. In my experience the gallon of water never seems to be all soaked up by the concrete and it sets too fast/gets too hard (for me) to poke holes in it to allow the water to flow to the bottom. I think Quikrete recommends a little less than a gallon of water per bag but I could be wrong. If doing two bags per hole than definitely do halg bag then water.
Great point!
I would even maybe go a quarter of a bag if you're going to use these otherwise it's difficult to stir and to make sure that you do a thorough job. If you're using more than one bag in a hole, I wouldn't worry about how much water you use initially. It's fine if it's somewhat soupy at first because it will be easier to stir and it will actually give you more time before it sets, you can always add more cement and then more water if you have deep holes. I had 3-foot-deep holes about the same diameter as his and it took me 3 bags per hole. I also used extra water when I got to the last few inches, it gave it a nice smooth and flat consistency, if you care about that anyways.
1. You don't need more than an inch on either side. 1.5 times the post diameter is plenty.
2. Gravel doesn't do anything when you are using concrete... the concrete just encapsulates the gravel.
3. Yo don't need post stabilizers if you're using quick set. It only takes about a minute or two before it will stand on its own.
Great video for beginners. Thank you
Thanks for sharing!
Can’t wait for this guys tutorial video. He has lots of critiques. Hahaha
@@tdz69 It’s all good. I respect everyone’s feedback.
@@tdz69 Are you suggesting that I said something inaccurate?
For setting posts that aren't part of a fence or structure (such as posts for mailboxes, retractable hose coils, etc.) I've always used a much quicker/dirtier method. Dig the hole so at least the bottom 1/3rd of the post sets in there below grade, dump an entire bag of fast-setting Quikrete into the hole, then just soak it with a hose. Level the post. Walk away, come back in a few hours. Post should be solid. Backfill with whatever you dug out of the hole. Post done. I've never used gravel...likely an important step for fence or deck posts that need to remain level w/proper drainage below the posts. My mailbox post hasn't gone out-of-level or moved even slightly in over 7 years with the freeze/thaw cycles and harsh winters we have in Western NY. Cedar 4x4's are perfect for these quick and dirty one-off posts...cedar should last 20+ years.
Really good info, thanks for sharing!
This is gold. I use more concrete though. 120 lbs for 6 foot fence and twice that for an 8 footer. That’s still less than the pros recommend but way more than 1 bag.
Great vid. All the answers are here!
Thanks!!! I’m glad it helped!! 👍🏼🔥
i know it doesn't look as nice, but wouldnt having the concrete up to the ground level (and even a little higher) be better? that way water wouldn't pool at the top of the post? thanks! great video.
i also heard you should put a 1 foot post wrap with heat seal. starting right about 2 inches above dirt line
I’ve never used a post wrap but would love to hear your experience if you use it.
yeah I heard it's the bacteria in the dirt that erodes the post - so I don't think you want to repack the soil around the post.
@@voidisyinyangvoidisyinyang885 That’s interesting. I’ve never heard this before. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks buddy
Thx for watching!
Thanks for the video! I set the concrete for three fence posts, but the extracted soil is very dry and hardened. I was thinking about breaking the big chunks apart with a hammer and moistening it throughout the day before refilling. I was also thinking about buying a steel tamper and stomping the soil around it afterwords. Is this the correct way to go about this?
@@nastynate8641 As long as it’s topsoil, yes. 👍🏼
Excellent information.
Thanks! 👍🏼👍🏼
man if i had a backyard that big i would never leave home
Ha! It’s a lot of grass to mow. 🤣🤣
In climates where frost / freezing occurs, you need to consider the frost line. In Michigan, code dictates a depth of 42" to avoid heaving.
Really glad I found this video to see the Johnson Post and Pipe Level. My local hardware has it in stock, so I'll be picking it up in the morning!
I was searching for an example of using two 2x4s to stabilize the post, but I'm thinking of following @twoalward9166's advice and just holding it in place until it sets, especially since I'll be using the Johnson Post and Pipe Level and won't need to fumble around with a standard level.
Great advice on the frost line! Those post and pipe levels were a true game changer for me… I was so happy when I found them. I hope you enjoy them as much as I do! 👍🏼👍🏼
How many bags did you have to use per post?
Depending on the hole, it was 1.5 to 2 bags per hole.
So one bag of quikrete per hole?
It depends on the size of the hole
The previous owner of our home mounted the mailbox on 4" diameter concrete fill steel pipe (Lolly column). My neighbor said it goes at least 4 feet into the ground. He saw it put in. I've often wondered what would happen if a car ran into it.
WOW!!! Um, yeah, that seems like overkill. 😂😂
Nice job, thanks.
👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Am I understanding correctly that you position the first and last post where you want them (via 2 x 4 braces), then run the mason/string line? Any chance the first and last post move before everything is set in concrete? Or do you need to have the first and last posts set in concrete before doing the others? My main issue is that I'm cutting concrete and then digging the hole underneath and can put a stake in the ground to set up a string line.
Great question. My preferred way of doing this is to get those corner posts in the exact position that they need to be before setting or digging for any of the other posts. This gives me the cleanest line between the corner posts to ensure that the posts in between lineup exactly with those corners.
It would be ideal to set those corners in concrete first, but you don’t have to do it that way. You could just put stakes in the ground and then run your line between them.
@ReluctantDIYers So since I am on concrete. It sounds like I need to drill special holes in the concrete for my stakes. And then run the line and fill in those small holes later?
@@nicholasdupont2468 Do you have the ability to set the stakes off the edge of the concrete in a way that the line would pass through the exact location where you will be cutting and digging your posts?
The less punctures in the concrete the better
@ReluctantDIYers It would probably be another ten feet before I hit soil to set the stake. The other corner post is against a concrete wall.
So for a 8ft post I need a 12 ft pole? Seems a bit much underground no? Maybe I’ll use T posts instead?
That’s a big post, but you would need at least a good 3 feet underground for that, IMHO. Driving in an 8 ft T post is a pain to do, but that could work, depending on what it’s for.
If this is just for a basic fence or similar application and a lot of side pressure won't be exerted on the posts, I think you're fine with a 10 ft post. I've had two 10 ft posts in the ground only 1.5 ft deep for the last 12 years and they're doing fine. The posts are two of the anchor points for a shade sail, which I have quite a bit of tension on. They're cedar posts though, which are more durable. But cedar is way too expensive lately. I'd use pressure treated pine or fir and maybe add a few coats of paint, roofing cement, or something to the 2 ft that makes ground contact - not necessary, but might add a few years of life.
@@chafalaya Thx for sharing!
I found it easiest to dig the hole then pour in the already mixed concrete to about half the depth of the hole then jostle the 4x4 down into the wet concrete mix about 6 to 8 inches then adjust the 4x4 to the string line and then level up the post. I then fill in rest of the wet concrete around the post and let concrete set up and then come back later and cut the top of 4x4 post to the correct height.
I think that’s a great approach! Thank you so much for sharing this! 👍🏼👍🏼
I found just level ur post to ur string and pour in ur wet concrete and ur done…. I’ve set thousands of posts and I’ve found this to be the fastest most efficient way.
@justinmorgan3719 Thabks for sharing!
you mention concrete a few inches below the dirt (from the top), won't that rot the top of the post early? is it not better to have concrete to the top so water runs off to dirt? Curious as have tried where filled in dirt above and post rotted so although not a lot of testing.. it's current observation.. thoughts?
This has been a highly debated question in comments here and on TikTok. Running concrete to the top is an approach you can take. I have left the few inches open because I want grass to grow right next to my posts. This approach has worked well for me in the past. However, if you’re seeing rot in a short period of time with a treated post, you may want to push the concrete higher. 👍🏼👍🏼
You dig below your frost line. Its different in different places. Where im at its 60 inches.
Can I use a 90lb bag concrete and mix with gravel into 2ft deep divided into 3posts. Instead of 1 50lbs bag in 1post??
As long as that gives you enough to fill the holes. You also have to factor in the diameter of the hole. 👍🏼
How many bags of quick creete I need if the hole is 2 feet deep?
It depends on the hole diameter and the size of your post. I went through ~1 1/2 bags or more per hole. 👍🏼👍🏼
So for the 2ft deep and 8in width how many bags did you use? The table on the side of the bag says 3 bags but seems like a lot.. 150lb of concrete?? Is imagine 2 would suffice. Says to use 4 bags if doing 12in holes... the fast setting stuff isn't too cheap so it quickly adds up
@@Capafool Not every hole was the same size due to huge rocks, etc… but the most I used in any hole was right around 2 bags.
Thanks! That seems more reasonable, I'm getting rdy to buy material and wanted to plan accordingly. I'll also be doing the same dimensions depth and hole size as you did. I'll get a few xtra bags for safe measure but not expecting to use them.
@@Capafool 👍🏼👍🏼 I bought 2 bags per hole (I had 36 holes) and I had a lot of extra bags at the end. 🤣🤣
Nice!
@@Prince.Prince1999 👍🏼👍🏼
Curious, shouldn't the depth of the post account for the frost line in the area you live? I think it's a valid point to include for diyers who may not be familiar with the purpose.
So say your frost line is 48" and you want a 6' high fence. Wouldn't you need a 12' long post [6' above ground and a little longer than 4' below ground]? Then cut off the remaining amount.
So the depth of the hole should account for the frost line (48") + the depth of the gravel, say 6" + a few inches for the post to be below the frost line so the hole should be 56-58" deep. Is that correct?
If you live in an area where this is a concern, yes. For me, it’s not a major concern. 👍🏼
So you want to use a whole bag of concrete per hole?
@@amandazinkon9048 It depends on the size of the hole. You may need less, you may need more to bring the concrete level to the top of the hole. 👍🏼
is an 8 inch hole big enough? sites are saying 12 inch hole, but that's a lot of concrete
@@__m__e__ It’s been a while since I recorded this, but I recall saying something about 3x the width of the post is what’s recommended but that I didn’t want to dig such a big hole and use so much concrete. You’re right though. That is recommended. I’ve had zero issues with mine. 👍🏼
Can anyone tell me how many bags of quick Crete I will need (or what you used), so I know how much I should buy? 4x4. Post, 12” diameter hole 2’ deep. Same as video.
@@ekimsniggih Plan for a bag and a half. 👍🏼 Depending on the final size, you might need the full second bag.
how about installing 4 poles with concrete and have them be level altogether ?
Two options… 1. Do the math on your hole depth, factoring in the grade of your land (BOOOOO… I don’t like this one). Or 2. Set your posts, then hit them with a laser level, mark the posts, and cut the top off with a circular saw so they are all the same height. That’s what I did. 👍🏼👍🏼
Q..I need a 4x4 post for a water hose reel I’ve never used concrete after I get the post straight do I mix the water and mud in the bucket then pour or pour water in hole then concrete and mix it?
Great question! A lot of people will tell you to mix the concrete before you put it in the hole, and that is a great approach. I prefer to purchase the Quikrete that you can mix in the hole to save time. With that, you pour the concrete mix in the hole and then the water. I’ve done this a ton and it works really well. 👍🏼👍🏼
Hey there, I've been looking at 2 to 3 ft stakes that can be used instead of the dreaded hole digging. Do les anyone have experience with these? Just want to install a 4ft high cedar picket fence for the small pups.
If this is permanent, I don’t think you’ll be able to avoid digging holes. 🥲
Would rather have the option to move or remove as needed vs permanently cementing in. Just want to be sire that it's secure and safe for the pups. Thanks
@@tarynsanmartino8930 You could do T-stakes that you pound into the ground and then hook your fencing to that. I did this as a temporary fence for our vegetable garden for years.
Cool, thank you.
@@tarynsanmartino8930 👍🏼👍🏼
You don't need the braces when you dry pack, the concrete expands as it gets wet and holds the post strong. never had one move
@@markrichards5280 Great feedback to share… thank you! 👍🏼
I am putting in a much larger/sturdier mail box
Existing box is el cheapo on a 4x4
Going to put (2) new 4x4s back to back from sidewalk to road
Will pre-drill horizontal upper/lower new holes into 4x4s attach with carriage bolts washers nuts
Take pineapple juice can cut both ends off, cut vertically attach to 4x4s as a weed eater deflector may need (2) cans to cover complete diameter of both 4x4s
Then take chain link fence post, install it before the mailbox maybe 5ft as a deflector for vehicle mirrors that get to close to box as it’s been hit couple times
and think USPS actually hit it
We live on a 4 lane 45mph rd, need to do this on a weekend less traffic
Already called 811 to notify utilities to mark grass and I took pics to verify their respective markings
Will park vehicle on grass strip and block sidewalk about 50 ft away as a visual for drivers headed my way
When 4x4s installed concrete drying I will make the wood support the mailbox will sit on, then attach the following weekend
gOOd vid TYVM
Love the plan! Thanks for sharing!! 👍🏼👍🏼
When he says "circumference", I'm pretty sure he really means "diameter". Don't try to put a 4x4 post in a hole that has an 8 inch circumference! ; -)
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!! Thank you for the correction. 😉
That’s what she said 🤣🤣🤣
🤔
I thought the same thing. I think an 8-inch circumference hole has a diameter of... 2.5". I would have made the same mistake.
@ 2:26 "...[gravel] has a drainage effect." ...TO WHERE DOES IT DRAIN??
Yeah I don't know why all the rapid set concrete brands recommend putting the whole bag in then adding water, the water never seems to penetrate all the way down when done that way.
Agreed 💯
You are missing one of the most important parts, heat shrink wrap the water level area of the post from surface to under ground section. Otherwise, it will just rot at the area where the post sits in touch with the ground water.
Thanks for sharing! I have another video that I'll be doing this Spring to cover a few different ways you can protect the post from rot.
I know you say circumference in the beginning but I assume you mean diameter?
You are correct. Sometimes my brain says one thing and my mouth says another. 🤣🤣
@@ReluctantDIYerswell at least you didn't say girth lol
@@jdssurf 🤣🤣🤣 Yeah, that may have yielded an entirely different set of comments.
Check your local county ordinances. My local county requires metal sheathing around post before pouring concrete. If your a DIYer, go for it. When I replaced my wooden mailbox post which had rotted, I just dug hoe deeper, put in post and put in concrete, whatever.
Thanks for sharing! 👍🏼👍🏼
8 to 12” “circumference “ not quite right. Diameter?
I think it is easier and better to mix quick crete with a little water at a time in a wheel barrow to a creamy consistency. Best not to gamble it does not mix completely with liquid. Also, bring mix to gerund level. Why have dirt touching wood- not good
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These bags are quick drying but the allure for me was that they made it seem like you could just pour a bag in a hole and add 1 gallon of water which is total BS. I poured a quarter of a bag in the ground and added some water and took a stick to stir it and everything except the surface was still dry. So, unless you actually need something to set up fast don't bother with these because other than that the pour in the ground and just add water is a gimmick which you pay more for and get less cement than other bags. Next time I'll just buy regular cement mix it in a wheelbarrow and pour it into the hole, it's far quicker and far cheaper considering these 50lb bags cost the same as 80lb bags.
@@brandonk1502 Thanks for sharing!
MIght want to also think about your local frost line... don't want your posts heaving....
Definitely. If that’s a concern where you live, definitely go deep enough.
You don't have to wait 4 hours for it to harden. 30 to 45 minutes is just fine. Add warm water for faster hardening.
Thanks for sharing!
Yea there’s absolutely no need to screw in those 2x4s to keep it level. Just mix ur concrete before hand, then pour it in and level ur post, and as long as your concrete is mixed properly it will hold the post level
Hi. Thank you but what about a frost line? 36 inches? Thank you and have a good day
Thanks for your question! If this was construction that was going to hold an actual structure on posts/pillars, I would go for the frost line. For a basic backyard fence, it’s not a concern IMHO. 👍🏼
Hi. Ok just a question was all-have a good day
I hope you have a great day also! 👍🏼👍🏼
@@ReluctantDIYers Thank you
You would want to go 6 inches below whatever your local frost line is. In my area it is 18 inches so I set my posts 24 inches deep. The goal is to avoid frost heave, which will happen to a basic backyard fence. The posts will get out of plumb and the fence will lean.
I've set miles of fence posts for corrals and horse pastures..don't use concrete..just use gravel, fill the hole up to 25% and tamp the gravel with a devils stick ( tamp rod).. set the post level and continue filling at about 25% or little less and tamping..you'll discover you can adjust plumb perfectly by tamping ..it will be a "rock" hard set and the post will last twice as long bc water drains away..concrete holds water and lessens the life span..you're fence will be stronger, last longer and more importantly..you will too !
Thank you for sharing! This is great feedback. 👍🏼👍🏼
Just set half a dozen posts in my yard with tamped gravel and clay, they are rock solid. The thought of digging up 80lb concrete slugs from under rotted posts in 5-10 years was too much. When the posts rot they will be way easier to replace this way.
@@13squier Great point
PLUS.. THE WATER WILL NOW DRAIN AWAY FROM POSTS..CONCRETE HOLDS ITS ORIGINAL MOISTURE FOR MONTHS AND THEN AS POST SHRINKS ( THESE DAYS THEY SHRINK FAST) FUTURE RAIN IS HELD AGAINST POST BY CONCRETE..NO MORE LABOR TO PACK GRAVEL THAN MIXING CONCRETE.
I think I don't actually know for sure but it would probably be to expensive to use concrete on a ranch job cuz those posts probably catch a lot more wear and tear
2 ft? Shouldn't it be below the Frost Line?🤔
If that is a concern where you live, yes. 👍🏼
This hole is like 8" in diameter, from my experience, almost 5 out of 5 the concrete crack block cracked on the top surface after a few years. I am thinking there isn't enough concrete from the corner of the 4x4 to the edge of the 8" round concrete, barely like 1.5". Surely it isn't much. I did a hole of 10" diameter, using the same 4x4, that post is the best, holding the 4x4 very sturdy and NO signs of cracking at all. This is in Toronto weather.
Thanks for sharing! 👍🏼👍🏼
Why go below the surface with the top of the concrete. Why not level or just above, so water won't pool
@@pshngo I prefer grass… even though so many people disagree. But, I’ve had zero drainage issues so far.
If water is pooling around a fence post you have a different issue. This is a flat lawn.
@ Definitely. Our ground drains so well…
How deep the hole should be
oh man... did I not cover that in the video? It's been so long since I did this... I'll have to watch again.
I would think you want the concrete above finished grade not 4” below. Now water is going to accumulated on top of the concrete and rot the wood out 4 inches below grade
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Great !
Thanks! 👍🏼
Circumference? Did you mean diameter?
@@HORNET6 I did… my mouth ignored my brain. 🤣🤣
cool vid thanks
You’re welcome! Thanks for watching. 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
wind broke our post so in need of one. dont you have to call a before you dig.
Definitely check your local requirements to see if a call is required.
Pro tip don’t use the gas auger you get at the big box stores. Instead buy the ego battery powered auger. It works 10 times better.
@@JasonM35 Thx for sharing!
its ok until the last part where you fill in the top part with dirt. That ground to wood contact is a problem. It's not wrong, but it's going to result in greatly reduced lifespan of the posts. as compared to another method that avoids the ground to wood contact. The post will rot quickly at this part of the post. I did this and had to pull and replace within 5 years. A better way is to use a form and wet concrete and build up the concrete 3 inches above ground with the top sloped away from post. There are at least two other videos that describe this.
Thanks for this feedback! 👍🏼👍🏼
Those last few inches of dirt you covered the concrete with will start to rot your post
👍🏼
Sorry to be a bit picky, but the post is not to be set at level, it's set at plumb. Plumb is the perpendicular of level.
@@julesdegiulio2565 👍🏼
I think you meant diameter not circumference
Yup! My brain and mouth don’t always like to work together… brain said diameter and mouth said circumference. 🤣🤣
His posts will probably ROT faster with the dirt around the neck out of the concrete below.
We shall see... any bets on how fast?
You say circumference but I think you mean diameter.
I did… my brain and mouth don’t like each other sometimes. 🤣🤣🤣
You said "circumference" - what you meant was diameter.
@@basedindividual22 You are correct! Welcome to the war between my brain and my mouth. 🤣🤣
How many bags/pounds of concrete did you use?
1 to 1.5 bags per hole. Due to VERY rocky soil, I was not able to get every hole dug as deep as I wanted.
Never finish by leaving it 3 or 4 inch short then top up with soil. The soil will contribute to rotting. Bring the concrete above and taper off so that rain water will run off. Also if you are doing many posts, i suggest wearing a protective mask. Breathing in cement dust is. Killer.
Thanks for sharing! 👍🏼👍🏼
My brother in christ. 12in circumference for a 4x4 post would have a hole diameter of 3.8in. You're saying to make a hole smaller than the post. Did you mean 8-12in diameter, as opposed to circumference?
Yes… my brain and my mouth are sometimes at war with one another. 🤣🤣
circumference? i presume diameter.
You are correct… sometimes my mouth doesn’t say what my brain tells it to say. 🤣🤣
It literally says on the Post Mix bag to put
all the dry mix in. That will hold the post
without braces. The concrete will harden
over time from moisture from the surrounding
soil and air. No need to add water, which
will not make your post any stronger. Put
the mix in dry and walk away...
Thanks for the feedback.
Diameter, not circumference.
Yup… my mistake. 🤣
Call local department/utility company before drill. You don't want to drill right into any underground pipe or electricity line.
@@minghuiyu2073 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Diameter , not circumference
Yup… my brain and mouth get out of sync sometimes. 🤷🏼♂️
Jesus loves you
John 3:16
John 14:6
1 john 1:9
100%
You mean diameter, not circumference
@@iLLuminatedWithDren You are correct
A post should be plumb--not level
Tomato - Tomahto 👍🏼
Looks good except the dirt. DO NOT PUT DIRT BACK IN HOLE. Anywhere the dirt touches the post, it will rot. And fence won't last but few years. Build concrete up above hole and form it around post so post won't be touching the yard
Thanks for sharing
diameter, not circumference
@@rosshauck1557 Yup… my brain and mouth aren’t friends sometimes.
It is completely unnecessary to brace your posts like that. They will remain plumb with zero issues without the bracing. This is one of the biggest mistakes I see DIYer’s do.
@@carlosraymundomartinezesq3396 Thanks for sharing your opinion! I appreciate you.
Fill the top with dirt! Your post is going to rot
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The ole fence guy I learned from taught me that slightly mounding the quikcrete at the base directs the moisture off the post to prevent rot.
@ Thanks for sharing!
*diameter
Yup… my words like to mix themselves up from time to time. 🤪
girth
Gravel does nothing for drainage....
Thanks for sharing
MAKE SURE you check the building code for your location!! In the south, because of all of the rain they get, you CANNOT bury a post in the ground. You have to dig a hole and fill it with concrete with a metal post bracket in the cement and then the post attaches to the bracket - ABOVE GROUND.
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Not for a fence lol. Maybe a deck or foundation. I’ve never seen a fence post set that way in NC