Thank you so much for sharing your video. Although I am not a mechanic, I was able to understand and learn from it. I have a 1994 Ford Ranger XLT extended cab I bought for $500.00 from a neighbor. As I was driving, the gears would not engage and was not able to move forward .I'll have a towing truck to bring home. But, at least I know what to check and replace. Again, thank you so much 🙏🏾
Did this job yesterday. This video and another one specifically focused on the burping procedure totally helped me. I think I fixed it. Thanks so much.
Have a 94 and thanks. Going to do this to mine. Was hoping it was just air in master cyc but no. Clutch is stiff, shifts nice but does not engage. meaning truck doesn't move in gear Thoughts?
How can I bleed the clutch after the slave cylinder has been replaced? I had a breakdown, out of town, had to rent a car while it was fixed, then go back to where I was to pick up my ranger. I noticed the clutch wasn’t the same. Now I’m pumping it every morning to be able to drive it. I oh bought a hand held vacuum/pressure pump. Hopefully I can bleed it well enough to be able to shift without pumping it 30-40 times every morning.
I have tried many different ways to bleed these systems and because of the u shaped hard plastic line I have only ever had success with the entire line and master cylinder off the vehicle it traps air and it makes it next to impossible😩 maybe you can get it a little better with the pump 🤔good luck! Thanks for the comment👍
What is the little bearing that comes in the clutch kit? Does that go on my transmission before I slide it in? Or is it from the flywheel? Looks like there is one in there that same size
love watching these magical videos im going to make some that show how it really is with the cussing and tool throwing and hair pulling from all the rusted bolts and damn near impossable bolts you have to get to lol but good show none the less
Wow! I learned a boat load of info from this video..ty man!! ..hope u can answer a question for me , I got the same truck 130k orig on it , and my clutch pedal went soft on me today ...now I gotta pin it to the floor to shift..its drivable but the clutch now releases cm off the floor, its tricky to drive and it's my daily ...any info would help ...and thanx again for the knowledge, I subbed...
@@ChristmanGarage hey just want to say ty again ...I was able to get my master out and its definitely shot ...without ur video I probably would've been at a shop paying through the nose ....u were a huge help ...ty
question… with the throw out bearing being hydraulic with no clutch fork… can it be engaging the clutch while trying to install the transmission with the clutch line not being hooked up? the bellhousing bolts seem to not want to sandwich the motor and trans together 🙃 please help.
I have never had a release bearing stick out I think it had a return spring built into it. However there are many things that can prevent the mating of the trans with the engine two of the most common I have found are the spacer between the two has fell down just enough to prevent it from pulling up and the transmission shaft splines not lining up through the clutch. I usually put the transmission in gear and spin the output shaft while applying pressure and it normally falls in. Also make sure no wires or cables are pinched. They are a little tricky and sometimes very cumbersome maybe this helps👍
When I was bleeding the clutch hydraulic line near the transmission this white grease looking gunk was coming out with the brake fluid. Any idea what that was? I have a 98 ranger, 250k, absolutely the best vehicle I ever had. Thanks...great video, I wish I lived near North Carolina id just bring it to you.
Not sure but it sounds like you may have some water in the system or it could be a bad slave pushing something out…..that’s strange? I would probably keep trying to bleed it until it cleared up. Thanks for the comment! 👍
Just go to harbor freight and buy a brake bleeder. Just the little hand pump that’s how I did my 94 worked great and had the clutch bled in about 5 minutes
looks like the 96 trans is longer so it doesn't have to have a carrier bearing and they just mounted the trans to the carrier bearing mount causing it to be a bit high up
Actually I discovered this truck had been wrecked underneath and the cross member was bent up and after I straitened it it all went back in line perfect👍 thanks for the comment!
brother what did you think i can do? in my 94 b4000 4x4 the clutch and slave cylinder was replaced but the slave was replaed with the newer slave ( the one with the black safety clip) but my pressure line is the older style the one with the push line with out the pin what can i do and if you have any idea please help me i dont want to pull the tranny out again its a 4x4 and is a pain in the ass
I’ve had this issue before and really the only solution is to buy a new line assembly, they sometimes come with a new master as well I know that sounds like a lot but I don’t think they are that expensive👍 hope this helps
The v6’s are a little different I think you may have to drop exhaust to get the tranny down but overall they are very similar👍 good luck and thanks for the comment👍
Yes. Exhaust needs to be dropped. Im doin my 94 ,4.0, 2wd, 5spd. 328k mi, I lost 5th gear. Im replaceing w 96 used, from scrap yd. I had to change over hat from bad tranny, due to needing 1 extra wire hookup. Then noticed R center spring ldd button
Hanging up. I swapped it out, & new bushing kit. Also new rear main oil seal, resurfaced flywhl, New disc,pressure plate , throwout bearing w slavecylinder. Hopefully when I turn key & engage gears, it will all be well !
I am very backed up at the moment and I can’t take on any more work but if I did it you would be looking around $400 to $600 labor depending on the misfire issue plus parts.
What if the hydraulic line keeps popping out when you engage the clutch. I feel it click but once the clutch pedal gets some pressure my hydraulic line pops out. All new parts.
This is a very tricky and aggravating process if all else fails I think they sell a complete unit already bleed and ready to install 90% of the time it is air trapped in the loop of that hard line coming from the slave. I have also heard that some people have success with the handheld vacuum bleeders you can get from harbor freight. Maybe this helps👍
@@ChristmanGarage thank you It is very aggravating I already jacked 2 masters trying to bleed it from the rod on top I’m going to order one that’s already bled hopefully that does it if not I’ll try vacuuming
Tell you a really better trick to bleed the master cylinder, use a vacuum pump and suck air out though the reservoir hole, the pushrod will have practically no free play by using this method. The method in the instructions, which is what you did, was messy and time consuming, worse of all it doesn’t get all the air out(it had more free play in the master cylinder and when I use the vacuum method it can still suck air from the “bled” master cylinder using the normal method).
@@ChristmanGarage one thing important tho is on cars with concentric clutch you have to disconnect the hydraulic line before using this method, I used this method with the hydraulic lines connected, messed up the seal in the concentric slave cylinder.
@@davidgruen7423 Hi Dave, I have a '94 2.3l Ford Ranger. I need to replace the clutch. During this process, I am planning to change out the clutch, rear main seal, pilot bearing and slave cylinder only. Should I use your method (a vacuum pump) before connecting the line for the slave cylinder? Please advise.
@@path2049 of course, do it separately, never apply vacuum directly to the slave cylinder, and if you really want to try and see if it’s safe, bleed the hydraulic system right after you shove the transmission in place, tighten only one bolt just to keep it in place, if it’s still good, great continue putting everything back together. If it fails, all you need to do is take off that bolt and replace the slave cylinder, you can even possibly get a free replacement if you just tell them it failed for no reason rather than telling them you vacuumed it, lol. As for the pilot bearing, make sure the side with letters faces towards you(mine is a 4.0 V6 Cologne but I assume yours is similar), the letter side has a small o ring to keep the needle bearings clean from clutch dust, the idiot who did the last clutch job put it backwards, and he’s likely a Ford technician(the clutch cover says “Ford Quality Renewal, I mean who would buy a reman ford parts other than a money pinching soccer dad(it’s a manual) type of person sending his car to the trust worthy stealership, lol)
@@davidgruen7423 I still have a question. After sucking all the air bubbles out using the vacuum, the next thing you will connect the line to the slave cylinder. Do you still need to bleed it by unscrew that tiny release nut on the slave cylinder?
First make sure your rod going to the pedal is disconnected and the reservoir is loose then it should twist off. One exception would be if it has been replaced before some of the aftermarket units are one piece and have to be unbolted most of those units are cast and not plastic, hopefully this helps good luck👍
the little plastic piece is missing on my line that attaches to the slave cylinder at the transmission has anyone got an idea how to get it to release without that little plastic piece ?
You can use the A/C line tools or a fuel line tool they work off same principle 👍 I have even cut a piece of plastic and wedged it in some in the past and got it to release
About to knock this out on my 99, been compiling videos for learning purposes and this is my new #1 great knowledge collection man
Glad to help👍
I’m doing this on my 98 this week
Great video!! Always good to have someone share some knowledge!
Thank you so much for sharing your video. Although I am not a mechanic, I was able to understand and learn from it. I have a 1994 Ford Ranger XLT extended cab I bought for $500.00 from a neighbor. As I was driving, the gears would not engage and was not able to move forward .I'll have a towing truck to bring home. But, at least I know what to check and replace. Again, thank you so much 🙏🏾
Glad to hear! Your welcome!👍😁
thank you for answering the questions. It shows an inherent kindness.
Any time!
This is one video I really enjoyed. I love your demeanor and it was just a joy to watch ! Thank you so much!
Awesome👍 glad you enjoyed thanks for the comment!
Currently working on my 94, smooth sailing with this video. Thank you :)
thanks for the comment!👍
there a pain in the ass dont sugar coat it dude
Very well done video and I appreciate you making it. Bout to do this tomorrow on my 93.
Hope it all goes smooth👍good luck and thanks for the comment!
10 seconds in i already love this guy
Thanks for the comment👍
This was the best ranger video ever. Thank you sir! Informative and just a funny dude
Glad you enjoyed it!👍
Just did this same exact job yesterday. In a gravel driveway lol
been there done that LOL!😂 thanks for the comment
L pp
My slave line don’t ha the plastic around it and I can’t get the line out
Thats Hardcore right there 👆🏼
Makes me miss my ole danger ranger
Did this job yesterday. This video and another one specifically focused on the burping procedure totally helped me. I think I fixed it. Thanks so much.
Thanks for the comment 👍
Thank God for you guys. May the Lord God bless you richly.
God has blessed us! Thank you for the comment👍
An underrated channel
Very helpful and explanatory! Thank you 😄
Thanks for the comment👍
This guys just coolness🙂👍🏽
I just bought a ''93 and it won't hardly go into gear. I am thinking it needs the same thing done to it as you did in this video. Thanks for the info!
Yep it’s a common problem👍 tyanks for the comment
Have a 94 and thanks. Going to do this to mine. Was hoping it was just air in master cyc but no. Clutch is stiff, shifts nice but does not engage. meaning truck doesn't move in gear Thoughts?
Sounds like it’s in the transmission I’ve seen pins shear in these transmissions causing the exact scenario you are describing
Thanks man i appreciate that, What would that entail as far as me doing it
@@bradlindgren716 you would have to pull the transmission and go into it if that’s the problem. It would be a big job for sure
I'm surprised the paint didn't come flying off with how close you had that pressure washer nozzle.
Great job, I do appreciate your video 😎👍
Awesome! Thanks for the comment👍
How can I bleed the clutch after the slave cylinder has been replaced? I had a breakdown, out of town, had to rent a car while it was fixed, then go back to where I was to pick up my ranger. I noticed the clutch wasn’t the same. Now I’m pumping it every morning to be able to drive it. I oh bought a hand held vacuum/pressure pump. Hopefully I can bleed it well enough to be able to shift without pumping it 30-40 times every morning.
I have tried many different ways to bleed these systems and because of the u shaped hard plastic line I have only ever had success with the entire line and master cylinder off the vehicle it traps air and it makes it next to impossible😩 maybe you can get it a little better with the pump 🤔good luck! Thanks for the comment👍
What is the little bearing that comes in the clutch kit? Does that go on my transmission before I slide it in? Or is it from the flywheel? Looks like there is one in there that same size
It’s the pilot bearing. The transmission output shaft rides on it in the end of the crankshaft
love watching these magical videos im going to make some that show how it really is with the cussing and tool throwing and hair pulling from all the rusted bolts and damn near impossable bolts you have to get to lol but good show none the less
Wow! I learned a boat load of info from this video..ty man!! ..hope u can answer a question for me , I got the same truck 130k orig on it , and my clutch pedal went soft on me today ...now I gotta pin it to the floor to shift..its drivable but the clutch now releases cm off the floor, its tricky to drive and it's my daily ...any info would help ...and thanx again for the knowledge, I subbed...
First thanks for the comment and sub! 👍. From what you are explaining
Sorry hit send too early🤨. Sounds like you’ve got a bad master cylinder I have changed a ton of these over the years not too bad just take your time👍
@@ChristmanGarage hey just want to say ty again ...I was able to get my master out and its definitely shot ...without ur video I probably would've been at a shop paying through the nose ....u were a huge help ...ty
@@jimmyrigged1292 that is awesome to hear! 👍 thanks for the comment!
Yo man is there any aftermarket cam shafts for the fuel injection 2.3?
Look up either of these two businesses on the internet, (esslinger engineering) or (race engineering). Both of these companies specialize in 2300’s
question… with the throw out bearing being hydraulic with no clutch fork… can it be engaging the clutch while trying to install the transmission with the clutch line not being hooked up? the bellhousing bolts seem to not want to sandwich the motor and trans together 🙃 please help.
I have never had a release bearing stick out I think it had a return spring built into it. However there are many things that can prevent the mating of the trans with the engine two of the most common I have found are the spacer between the two has fell down just enough to prevent it from pulling up and the transmission shaft splines not lining up through the clutch. I usually put the transmission in gear and spin the output shaft while applying pressure and it normally falls in. Also make sure no wires or cables are pinched. They are a little tricky and sometimes very cumbersome maybe this helps👍
Great Video. Thank you.
When I was bleeding the clutch hydraulic line near the transmission this white grease looking gunk was coming out with the brake fluid. Any idea what that was? I have a 98 ranger, 250k, absolutely the best vehicle I ever had. Thanks...great video, I wish I lived near North Carolina id just bring it to you.
Not sure but it sounds like you may have some water in the system or it could be a bad slave pushing something out…..that’s strange? I would probably keep trying to bleed it until it cleared up. Thanks for the comment! 👍
Just bought a b2500 today and noticed the clutch slipping on the drive home so looks like I have to do this same job!
Good luck! Thanks for the comment👍
Just go to harbor freight and buy a brake bleeder. Just the little hand pump that’s how I did my 94 worked great and had the clutch bled in about 5 minutes
looks like the 96 trans is longer so it doesn't have to have a carrier bearing and they just mounted the trans to the carrier bearing mount causing it to be a bit high up
Actually I discovered this truck had been wrecked underneath and the cross member was bent up and after I straitened it it all went back in line perfect👍 thanks for the comment!
brother what did you think i can do? in my 94 b4000 4x4 the clutch and slave cylinder was replaced but the slave was replaed with the newer slave ( the one with the black safety clip) but my pressure line is the older style the one with the push line with out the pin what can i do and if you have any idea please help me i dont want to pull the tranny out again its a 4x4 and is a pain in the ass
I’ve had this issue before and really the only solution is to buy a new line assembly, they sometimes come with a new master as well I know that sounds like a lot but I don’t think they are that expensive👍 hope this helps
I bought a Ford once. Then I wanted to have fun on the weekends. Bought a Tacoma
lol!😂
Hey Im about to this to my ranger its a 94 4.0. is the only difference the bell housing? nice vid thanks
The v6’s are a little different I think you may have to drop exhaust to get the tranny down but overall they are very similar👍 good luck and thanks for the comment👍
Yes. Exhaust needs to be dropped. Im doin my 94 ,4.0, 2wd, 5spd.
328k mi, I lost 5th gear.
Im replaceing w 96 used, from scrap yd.
I had to change over hat from bad tranny, due to needing 1 extra wire hookup. Then noticed R center spring ldd button
Hanging up. I swapped it out, & new bushing kit.
Also new rear main oil seal, resurfaced flywhl,
New disc,pressure plate
, throwout bearing w slavecylinder. Hopefully when I turn key & engage gears, it will all be well !
I live in north georgia how much would you charge to do this same job and assess a misfire on a 94 b2300
I am very backed up at the moment and I can’t take on any more work but if I did it you would be looking around $400 to $600 labor depending on the misfire issue plus parts.
@@ChristmanGarage your prices seem fair but you clearly do good work do you have a waiting list
Nice job...trully
Awesome👍 Thanks for the comment!
What if the hydraulic line keeps popping out when you engage the clutch. I feel it click but once the clutch pedal gets some pressure my hydraulic line pops out. All new parts.
Never seen that before I would be willing to bet you have a defective part thanks for the comment
That new car scent tho
😂👍#gonetothebad😂👍
I been having a hard time bleeding my 94 ranger I can’t get it to build enough pressure for the plate to release
This is a very tricky and aggravating process if all else fails I think they sell a complete unit already bleed and ready to install 90% of the time it is air trapped in the loop of that hard line coming from the slave. I have also heard that some people have success with the handheld vacuum bleeders you can get from harbor freight. Maybe this helps👍
@@ChristmanGarage thank you It is very aggravating I already jacked 2 masters trying to bleed it from the rod on top I’m going to order one that’s already bled hopefully that does it if not I’ll try vacuuming
How many hours would you say I should get charged for by a mechanic for the same job? (hmm, new car scent...nice!)
Thanks for the comment!! It took me the better part of a day probably about 6-8 hrs depending on how many problems you run into. Hopefully this helps👍
@@ChristmanGarage youre welcome. Yep, it does help, the truck I was looking at isnt worth buying since I can't do the work myself. Thanks!
After 23 year my clutch finally went out I have no Idea how it lasted that long but does anyone know the estimate to do it diy?
You can usually pick up a kit for less than $200 and then after misc. odds and ends you could probably do it for $300 total just a ballpark in parts
How about you guys do a video of a 97ford ranger xlt 2.3 manual transmission Clutch replacement 😉 🤔
They should be relatively the same but if I get one in I will shoot a video👍
What size are those bell housing bolts?
Most the time they are 13mm but I have seen some that were 17mm 👍 I guess it depends on what they felt like putting in that day👍
Tell you a really better trick to bleed the master cylinder, use a vacuum pump and suck air out though the reservoir hole, the pushrod will have practically no free play by using this method. The method in the instructions, which is what you did, was messy and time consuming, worse of all it doesn’t get all the air out(it had more free play in the master cylinder and when I use the vacuum method it can still suck air from the “bled” master cylinder using the normal method).
Awesome! Thanks for the comment👍
@@ChristmanGarage one thing important tho is on cars with concentric clutch you have to disconnect the hydraulic line before using this method, I used this method with the hydraulic lines connected, messed up the seal in the concentric slave cylinder.
@@davidgruen7423 Hi Dave, I have a '94 2.3l Ford Ranger. I need to replace the clutch. During this process, I am planning to change out the clutch, rear main seal, pilot bearing and slave cylinder only. Should I use your method (a vacuum pump) before connecting the line for the slave cylinder? Please advise.
@@path2049 of course, do it separately, never apply vacuum directly to the slave cylinder, and if you really want to try and see if it’s safe, bleed the hydraulic system right after you shove the transmission in place, tighten only one bolt just to keep it in place, if it’s still good, great continue putting everything back together. If it fails, all you need to do is take off that bolt and replace the slave cylinder, you can even possibly get a free replacement if you just tell them it failed for no reason rather than telling them you vacuumed it, lol. As for the pilot bearing, make sure the side with letters faces towards you(mine is a 4.0 V6 Cologne but I assume yours is similar), the letter side has a small o ring to keep the needle bearings clean from clutch dust, the idiot who did the last clutch job put it backwards, and he’s likely a Ford technician(the clutch cover says “Ford Quality Renewal, I mean who would buy a reman ford parts other than a money pinching soccer dad(it’s a manual) type of person sending his car to the trust worthy stealership, lol)
@@davidgruen7423 I still have a question. After sucking all the air bubbles out using the vacuum, the next thing you will connect the line to the slave cylinder. Do you still need to bleed it by unscrew that tiny release nut on the slave cylinder?
What was time frame from start to finish
If I really stayed on it I could do it in about 4hrs probably but with the trips to the parts house it’s a full day job
@@ChristmanGarage thank you
My lil ranger started making a clicking sound when you push in the clutch it stops
Any ideas I've changed the clutch pressure plate and throw out bearing and slave cylinder
I’ve seen release bearings make noises that stop when you push in the clutch and put pressure on them that would be my guess?
So u don't think it's a transmission problem ,I was guessing a cracked flywheel ,really appreciate you getting back to me thanks
Changed out the transmission it was a bad lower gear and bearing
The master cylinder is giving me a hard time to twist andf slide it out, for one reason or another
First make sure your rod going to the pedal is disconnected and the reservoir is loose then it should twist off. One exception would be if it has been replaced before some of the aftermarket units are one piece and have to be unbolted most of those units are cast and not plastic, hopefully this helps good luck👍
the little plastic piece is missing on my line that attaches to the slave cylinder at the transmission has anyone got an idea how to get it to release without that little plastic piece ?
You can use the A/C line tools or a fuel line tool they work off same principle 👍 I have even cut a piece of plastic and wedged it in some in the past and got it to release
I see you did not remove the shifter stub at the top when taking the transmission out, correct?
Correct I just unhooked the shaft👍
@@ChristmanGarage One more question. Did you loosen your last 2 bolts from the top of the car or underneath the car?
@@path2049 pretty sure I did it all from the bottom with a long extension and swivel👍
6:55 🥵
All that for a clutch
Yep👍🤨
Makes me not want to do this 😅
You smacking your gums at the end was annoying AF. 😒🙉
Yesss !! made me mad when I was editing 😢 sorry about that. Thanks for the comment 👍