Hey man 9 years later and I can't thank you enough for making this video! Your chill demeanor and calming voice makes all this info you've shared so much easier to take in, absorb, and retain! Made my repair a complete success on my '95 Ex Sport 4x4 😎👍🏼
Thank you for a simple, straight forward video. These days, so many videos have 7minutes of crap to show a 2minute repair. Yours has shown all the important bits, made mention of the key points to note, has not underestimated the difficulties or frustrations that will occur when doing the job. I will now let the work mechanic have fun changing my dodgy clutch slave. I could do myself, but now I see that I do not wish to.
Simple and straightforward wtf are you talking about. He skipped the whole part of taking out the hardest bolts in the world. The mounting bolts that are uhhhh facing the opposite way and there is no room I repeat no room. No tool no extension in the world is getting that bolt out. Good luck I’ve been at it for 10 hours. Everything apart but now I’m going to put everything back on and drive it with no clutch untill the fkn pos breaks down. Pullin the tags and leavin it right there.
This is why I'm taking it to the auto repair shop, Yes I will cry when I have to pay but your video just confirms what my body has been telling me "Don't make me do it!" Thanks.
I took mine to a repair shop and they also put O'Reilly's parts in it. As in the video, mine too lasted one year, which was just beyond their labor warranty period. So, either way, you pay for the labor.
You have my utmost respect, poise, grace, just effortless. I feel less of a man watching this however I now know what it takes to be a real man. Impressed mate.
That's a great, informative, clear cut, straightforward, video. Just finished a mazda b2300. Had a heck of a time with the hydraulic line " quick release " The plastic piece was damaged so I wasn't able to get it disconnected properly. The line ended up breaking inside the release bearing where it pins in. Browsed some videos after the fact and wanted to say yours is worth posting a good comment. Thanks
Good idea to mark the driveshaft before dropping it. Some driveshafts are "harmonically balanced" and must be re-installed exactly how they came off. If you can't see the paint from the manufacturer, just paint a line from driveshaft to one end....like the differential side. If you put it on wrong and it was harmonically balanced, you'll experience vibrations at higher speeds, like over 50mph.
I was inspecting the transmission fluid level in my f150 and checked the slave cylinder. The tube for the fluid connection felt loose but there was no leaks. I was worried it had come loose. Seeing you spin it solved the mystery. Thanks man!
So is Ford OEM apparently. I thought I'd get better quality ordering one from a Ford dealership...they sent me one just like the leaking one he shows in the video with a crappy plastic base and throwout bearing that doesn't spin very well, even being new. I think Ford is rebranding Dorman units nowadays and selling them at 2-3x price. And yep, there's a big ole sticker on it that says "assembled in Mexico", and the bearing comes from the Phillipines apparently... sheesh. Luckily I also ordered another one from Perfection Clutch that is like the new one he's installing. Metal base and bearing spins much easier. Kind of wondering if the older Raybestos slaves for the 80's Rangers wouldn't fit in the newer models, from what I hear they've got at least a 3 year average lifespan. Someone really needs to come up with an elimination kit like the ones for the 370z that convert it back to a clutch fork design with external slave. That's $500 I'm pretty sure most Ford owners would pay to never have to deal with that issue again
Just replaced mine too along with the pilot bearing and complete clutch, I had a lot of trouble stabbing the transmission back in, and I even used the plastic alignment tool that came with the rock auto kit. Ok put about six Strong bamboo CHOPSTICKS in the bolt holes as guides... worked like a charm!!!
As a home mechanic, I would NEVER have gotten into the position that this guy does to remove the tranny. I guess some of us a braver than others. Thanks for posting this. I was looking at a local Ranger for sale at a great price that needed a new slave cylinder. "No problem," I thought. Easy fix. Now I know better.
I did a Jeep (1982 CJ7) a few years ago. On that vehicle it was easy to make a good knot on a rope around one side of the frame. Then wind the rope around the other side of the frame a few times. Tie the loose end to something that will keep it from unwinding and letting the transmission fall to the ground. Pull the transmission out of the clutch splines and let it fall. The rope catches it and then let it down easily with a floor jac and the rope. It's hard to explain it all but it may be possible to do this on other vehicles. I would use a rope and not a chain since the rope works better. It's got to be a nice thick rope that won't break when it catches the falling weight of the transmission.
That's a manual transmission. Nowhere close to the weight of a automatic transmission. I had to left a tranny back up into an old Mazda pickup the same way, holding it up with my hands and balancing the weight on my knees. You're not doing that before Auto trans.
@@minerblue9641I used 2 long 4x2 lengths of timber hanging out each side.. The ends of the timber resting on some tyres.. and then I remove a tire each side at a time and it lowers it down beautifully.. But I like the idea of the rope.. Yes I still use a hydraulic jack in the process.. Supporting it via my knees no way.. If something went wrong and I had to get out for whatever reason to do something else whatever I'd be stuck😂
Your sense of humor coupled with your expertise is perfect. Reminds me of me, minus the expertise :). Thanks for a wonderful video, it makes my Ranger less daunting.
Thank you for this video! I love the whole Lost review as well. When you mentioned Driveshaft, that reminded me of the show and I chuckled when you started talking about it. You’re right! It was such a let down.
Very Helpful, I just called it a day after fighting to get the trans in. But I did not do it from the back like you. I will go out tomorrow and try again. Thanks again
Guys easy way to diagnose where the problem on these types of vehicles is, assuming air has already been bled from the system, is to disconnect the hydraulic line from the slave cylinder, and push with your hand(I used my foot and broke the pushrod, which I didn’t care at all because I had a new one, but if you didn’t use your hand), feel for the pedal firmness, if it’s firm then your problem is the concentric slave, if it’s soft then your master is bad(doesn’t necessarily mean the slave is good but at least you know the master cylinder is for sure bad). The reason why this works is because there is a Schrader valve in the hydraulic line, and it’s spring loaded, so if the line is disconnected from the slave it will close automatically, sealing the master cylinder hydraulic circuit, fluid doesn’t compress, so the pedal will get firm again.
Super good video, sure saved me from a little bit of hesitation doing this job. Mine is a 98, clutch pedal seems to stick sometimes and sometimes super hard to depress. Thanks again for the nice video.
mine has the same issue- it sounds like. see my top comment- as it warms up the clutch pedal starts to pop up real slow, and the clutch won't engage, and then pressure builds up in the pedal to where it won't move at all. did you do yours yet?
You know, I found the hydraulic reservoir and added more fluid and it did the trick. I looked where the clutch plate goes back and forth and found no oil there. It works flawless now. Been using it for a month with no problems. The reservoir is located to the left of the brake reservoir next to the fender. Try it. It might do the trick.
I enjoyed your video, and the wrench I need is always the one I can't reach. If it wasn't for your copilot kitty/gunner you'd be screwed. A word on Oreilly's Auto Parts (life time), if you want to spend your life time replacing parts we by from them they'll provide the parts. Anyone reading this post Be aware they have several grades of life time parts, Even when they only have one grade they seam to be no better. Fact I replace ALL PARTS on 2002 Dodge Dakota and 18 months later tie rod end pulled apart,the other tie rod end ball was loose,sway bar rubbers all cracked. only 12 months after replacing everything, Firestone told me lower ball joints needed replaced. Power steering pump started leaking 6 months after I installed it. the rack and pinion came with one half the tie rod attach witch the treads pulled off. when the tie rod pulled out of the end that was attached to the hub. And that tie rod end threads were pulled out. Were caught in the grips of a Poor Quality World, Were the rich exploit the mass population because they can.
Thats an awesome video, thanks for making it! Best way to prime that kinky hose from the master to the slave is to reverse bleed it. I took mine off and did it on a bench. I removed the pin and took the hose off of the clutch master cylinder. Then used a pump-style oil can to pump brake fluid into the nipple (master side of the hose) while letting air out the valve on the end (the slave side). Slave side up in the air to push oil in from the bottom and let air out the top. Once its full, flip it right side up and reattach to the master. Then bench bleed the master by "burping" it with short strokes until it no longer bubbles and the rod is stiff. Then reinstall. Guaranteed there is no air in that part of the line. You can also pump some oil into the slave via the bleeder valve prior to snapping the line in. Less air to bleed the better, IMO.
I pulled my trans from a datsun 260z with a floor jack and went trough the same pain like you. Kinda got me thinking to buy a transmission jack (or to make one using an old jack)
Good work buddy. Learned a lot from this video as I bought ford ranger and I know I have to replace clutch in near future, so it helped me a lot. Where is the video prior to this one where you opened up starter, cross bars and all that good stuff. Thanks
I think when you go to buy a new car or truck, on the sticker, there should be a list of the 5 most ignorant repairs you will have to make on your new 25-35,000 dollar purchase. My truck has 140,000 miles, I bought it new and this is why I will really research my next purchase. IT WILL NOT BE A FORD MANUAL TRANSMISSION. Thanks for the video , your attitude was much healthier than mine.
cool video, that show lost was pretty exciting at first, ima bust out a ranger flywheel tonight my ring gear srtripped or something, your vids rock and the earth could be flat thanks
Thanks bro. Got a feelin I’ll be doing this same procedure some day. But informative man thanks. As I’m sittin here mine lasted bout a year last one lasted two since I replaced the og. So I’m going on my fourth. And next time I’ll be more prepared.
The integrated slave cylinder/release bearing is probably one of the most stupidest things that manuals cars have today. They save about 3-5lbs of weight by not having a clutch fork anymore. But a tedious 3-4 hour job just to get it fixed.
Damn beat me to it that would have been a heck of a blooper I was sitting there anticipating the drop and him hitting himself with it I was fixing to start busting out laughing
I made two alignment pins using similar thread bolts longer though .....grinded the heads off and slides right on...done that job probably 4 or5 different times .....you can just thread them out after one or two bolts are started n snugged
Great video, must have watched it 10 times during my install! NOTE: The King Cab Ranger has the exhaust that wraps around the bellhousing. I had to remove (ie. cut) it before being able to drop the transmission. Then of course I had to drill all of the bolt holes out! Sigh. Everything else was the same. Thanks again.
Man oh man… I pulled the driveshaft, crossmember, and on the last bolt on the bell housing yet realized the clutch pedal linkage was off the pedal entirely. Holy shit. What a fckin day. Guess I’ll go ahead and put the new slave cylinder in since I’m already here… 😂
Where the fill line enters the slave cylinder, red rtv sealer around the tube. There is an O ring inside ,it wears out from vibrations. Mine lasted 7 years, changing it today.
All Ford's after 86 started going internal my 88 f150 has it and has no clutch period I have air some freakin where and this vid didn't help lol oh well back to the drawing board
your videos saved me hundreds of dollars man, i did this on a 95 with 200k ohio salt miles so it wasnt easy. i read in my haynes manual to slightly lift the engine as well ( my theory is that it will help the shaft have a better angle to go in the engine. keep it up man
Invest in a good transmission jack or rent one. Not that expensive to rent and you only need to rent for one day in the most cases. It makes installing transmission easier.
Dust jacket is there to keep junk from coming out of the new slave cylinder until it is too late LOL. I'm doing this in the next few days (Clutch, flywheel, seals and such between work) on an f150 with a 4.6l so the exhaust crosses under the tail right where the mount is. Oh and my dumba#! lowered it 4 inch before I decided to replace the clutch. When was the last time you replaced your clutch? Your fingers look like they are worn uneven from the 8:32 shot. The reason I'm asking is I was wondering if you went through the trouble of replacing the Rear Main seal, shaft bushing, and the seal behind the slave cylinder. It looks like you did replace the tail shaft seal or you live in a very clean area. Oh do you ever get called Cameron Frye (Alan Ruck)?
Great video. I've got a 98 Ranger xl 5spd and it's tough to get in AND out of gear. Also ghost revs up past 2k rpms when I take it out of gear while moving 30+ mph until I come to a complete stop, then rpms drop. Does this sound like a slave cylinder issue? Thanks
Another thing, use the best quality fluid. If you’re at Dollar General, they can say clutch fluid, or Cam2, don’t buy it. Get the correct fluid at the dealership! There’s your problem. Hyper tech. Leave it there son. You may soon be doing this again. I hope not. Drain and replace that fluid. My clutch and pressure plate has some wear, but was usable, the bearing was still good, but I replaced it all. My 2.5 in-line 4 will smoke the tires in second on good gas, if you put the rpm to it. Great video. Thanks.
victor torpin mine was doing same thing. If you have a little clip on it make sure that’s in and make sure the plastic piece is not pushed in and it should snap in
Currently working on an 89 truck with this...am in there for the clutch but will replace the slave while I'm in there. Am in the MIDST of the job right now as of typing this after just removing the transmission...which decided to go lopsided on the trans jack after backing it away. Ended up using a screwdriver to break the connection away from the old slave so I still get to deal with it...but at a more manageable position that is free from the trans. Why oh WHY did FORD decide it was a good idea for the gasser version of the ZF to have the internal slave while the diesel had external like on my 91 with the 7.3 non-turbo?
Hey man 9 years later and I can't thank you enough for making this video! Your chill demeanor and calming voice makes all this info you've shared so much easier to take in, absorb, and retain! Made my repair a complete success on my '95 Ex Sport 4x4 😎👍🏼
Glad you got your truck fixed!
Thank you for a simple, straight forward video.
These days, so many videos have 7minutes of crap to show a 2minute repair.
Yours has shown all the important bits, made mention of the key points to note, has not underestimated the difficulties or frustrations that will occur when doing the job.
I will now let the work mechanic have fun changing my dodgy clutch slave.
I could do myself, but now I see that I do not wish to.
Simple and straightforward wtf are you talking about. He skipped the whole part of taking out the hardest bolts in the world. The mounting bolts that are uhhhh facing the opposite way and there is no room I repeat no room. No tool no extension in the world is getting that bolt out. Good luck I’ve been at it for 10 hours. Everything apart but now I’m going to put everything back on and drive it with no clutch untill the fkn pos breaks down. Pullin the tags and leavin it right there.
6 years later. Thank you. Been intimidated with this and you kept that entertaining and covered everything. Mahalo 🤙
This is why I'm taking it to the auto repair shop, Yes I will cry when I have to pay but your video just confirms what my body has been telling me "Don't make me do it!" Thanks.
I took mine to a repair shop and they also put O'Reilly's parts in it. As in the video, mine too lasted one year, which was just beyond their labor warranty period. So, either way, you pay for the labor.
You have my utmost respect, poise, grace, just effortless. I feel less of a man watching this however I now know what it takes to be a real man. Impressed mate.
My opinion is, this is by far the best video of this type of job all of ever!! Thanks man, great editing too!! Awesome explanations and hints as well.
That's a great, informative, clear cut, straightforward, video. Just finished a mazda b2300. Had a heck of a time with the hydraulic line " quick release " The plastic piece was damaged so I wasn't able to get it disconnected properly. The line ended up breaking inside the release bearing where it pins in. Browsed some videos after the fact and wanted to say yours is worth posting a good comment. Thanks
Thanks for the comment. I'm glad you got your truck fixed.
Good idea to mark the driveshaft before dropping it. Some driveshafts are "harmonically balanced" and must be re-installed exactly how they came off. If you can't see the paint from the manufacturer, just paint a line from driveshaft to one end....like the differential side. If you put it on wrong and it was harmonically balanced, you'll experience vibrations at higher speeds, like over 50mph.
W dad comment
I can't believe you did this whole job in 17 minutes!
youre joking right...?
😂😂😂@@zevulum
😂😂😂
I was inspecting the transmission fluid level in my f150 and checked the slave cylinder. The tube for the fluid connection felt loose but there was no leaks. I was worried it had come loose. Seeing you spin it solved the mystery. Thanks man!
I feel for you! I've done that 3 times over the past 10 years ! I Just turned 60 so now shopping for a F-150 w/automatic transmission!
Hey man just wanted to say thank you for this upload, it really helped me swap out the slave cylinder on my 97 Ranger!
And here I am, thinking I'm the only person with the problem of the slave cylinder constantly failing. Great video my man.
C.J. Wahler your not the only one
ebay crap..made in mexico..
So is Ford OEM apparently. I thought I'd get better quality ordering one from a Ford dealership...they sent me one just like the leaking one he shows in the video with a crappy plastic base and throwout bearing that doesn't spin very well, even being new. I think Ford is rebranding Dorman units nowadays and selling them at 2-3x price. And yep, there's a big ole sticker on it that says "assembled in Mexico", and the bearing comes from the Phillipines apparently... sheesh. Luckily I also ordered another one from Perfection Clutch that is like the new one he's installing. Metal base and bearing spins much easier. Kind of wondering if the older Raybestos slaves for the 80's Rangers wouldn't fit in the newer models, from what I hear they've got at least a 3 year average lifespan. Someone really needs to come up with an elimination kit like the ones for the 370z that convert it back to a clutch fork design with external slave. That's $500 I'm pretty sure most Ford owners would pay to never have to deal with that issue again
Just replaced mine too along with the pilot bearing and complete clutch, I had a lot of trouble stabbing the transmission back in, and I even used the plastic alignment tool that came with the rock auto kit. Ok put about six Strong bamboo CHOPSTICKS in the bolt holes as guides... worked like a charm!!!
C.J. Wahler ford made in USA 😂🤣
As a home mechanic, I would NEVER have gotten into the position that this guy does to remove the tranny. I guess some of us a braver than others. Thanks for posting this. I was looking at a local Ranger for sale at a great price that needed a new slave cylinder. "No problem," I thought. Easy fix. Now I know better.
That’s how you gotta do it in the driveway 😂
I did a Jeep (1982 CJ7) a few years ago. On that vehicle it was easy to make a good knot on a rope around one side of the frame. Then wind the rope around the other side of the frame a few times. Tie the loose end to something that will keep it from unwinding and letting the transmission fall to the ground. Pull the transmission out of the clutch splines and let it fall. The rope catches it and then let it down easily with a floor jac and the rope.
It's hard to explain it all but it may be possible to do this on other vehicles.
I would use a rope and not a chain since the rope works better. It's got to be a nice thick rope that won't break when it catches the falling weight of the transmission.
That's a manual transmission. Nowhere close to the weight of a automatic transmission. I had to left a tranny back up into an old Mazda pickup the same way, holding it up with my hands and balancing the weight on my knees. You're not doing that before Auto trans.
@@minerblue9641I used 2 long 4x2 lengths of timber hanging out each side.. The ends of the timber resting on some tyres.. and then I remove a tire each side at a time and it lowers it down beautifully..
But I like the idea of the rope..
Yes I still use a hydraulic jack in the process..
Supporting it via my knees no way..
If something went wrong and I had to get out for whatever reason to do something else whatever I'd be stuck😂
Your sense of humor coupled with your expertise is perfect. Reminds me of me, minus the expertise :). Thanks for a wonderful video, it makes my Ranger less daunting.
thank you so much!!! you just saved my truck from the junk yard...could not figure out how to get to the slave!
Thank you for this video! I love the whole Lost review as well. When you mentioned Driveshaft, that reminded me of the show and I chuckled when you started talking about it. You’re right! It was such a let down.
Very Helpful, I just called it a day after fighting to get the trans in. But I did not do it from the back like you. I will go out tomorrow and try again. Thanks again
Hope you got it fixed. Thanks for the comment.
Jennies Garage I sure did, got in behind it like you did and it went right In.
@@jenniesgaragebut the big question is how long did the new one last.???
Good thing you have a cheerful attitude about this whole mess.
Looks like I will be busy tomorrow. Great vid. Thanks.
Guys easy way to diagnose where the problem on these types of vehicles is, assuming air has already been bled from the system, is to disconnect the hydraulic line from the slave cylinder, and push with your hand(I used my foot and broke the pushrod, which I didn’t care at all because I had a new one, but if you didn’t use your hand), feel for the pedal firmness, if it’s firm then your problem is the concentric slave, if it’s soft then your master is bad(doesn’t necessarily mean the slave is good but at least you know the master cylinder is for sure bad). The reason why this works is because there is a Schrader valve in the hydraulic line, and it’s spring loaded, so if the line is disconnected from the slave it will close automatically, sealing the master cylinder hydraulic circuit, fluid doesn’t compress, so the pedal will get firm again.
Super good video, sure saved me from a little bit of hesitation doing this job. Mine is a 98, clutch pedal seems to stick sometimes and sometimes super hard to depress. Thanks again for the nice video.
mine has the same issue- it sounds like. see my top comment- as it warms up the clutch pedal starts to pop up real slow, and the clutch won't engage, and then pressure builds up in the pedal to where it won't move at all. did you do yours yet?
You know, I found the hydraulic reservoir and added more fluid and it did the trick. I looked where the clutch plate goes back and forth and found no oil there. It works flawless now. Been using it for a month with no problems. The reservoir is located to the left of the brake reservoir next to the fender. Try it. It might do the trick.
I enjoyed your video, and the wrench I need is always the one I can't reach. If it wasn't for your copilot kitty/gunner you'd be screwed. A word on Oreilly's Auto Parts (life time), if you want to spend your life time replacing parts we by from them they'll provide the parts. Anyone reading this post Be aware they have several grades of life time parts, Even when they only have one grade they seam to be no better. Fact I replace ALL PARTS on 2002 Dodge Dakota and 18 months later tie rod end pulled apart,the other tie rod end ball was loose,sway bar rubbers all cracked. only 12 months after replacing everything, Firestone told me lower ball joints needed replaced. Power steering pump started leaking 6 months after I installed it. the rack and pinion came with one half the tie rod attach witch the treads pulled off. when the tie rod pulled out of the end that was attached to the hub. And that tie rod end threads were pulled out. Were caught in the grips of a Poor Quality World, Were the rich exploit the mass population because they can.
Had I known my 2003 Ranger had a smart key and internal
clutch slave I would have bought a 1998 or older Toyota.
-"Mad" Max Speedwell
Just fixin to do this job next week, very nice refresher video. Dropped many a transmission in my day, but not in about 8 years. Thanks for posting.
i just finished my son 92 the clip that holds the pressure line was a pain,but thank you your video helped.
I have a 1994 Ford Explorer that needs the same thing, there’s a reason it has been out back for three years! Thanks for sharing 😀
Your such a cool dude. Your fun to watch and make a miserable job much more bearable. Love your attitude.
Thanks! Hope you got yours fixed.
Thats an awesome video, thanks for making it! Best way to prime that kinky hose from the master to the slave is to reverse bleed it. I took mine off and did it on a bench. I removed the pin and took the hose off of the clutch master cylinder. Then used a pump-style oil can to pump brake fluid into the nipple (master side of the hose) while letting air out the valve on the end (the slave side). Slave side up in the air to push oil in from the bottom and let air out the top. Once its full, flip it right side up and reattach to the master. Then bench bleed the master by "burping" it with short strokes until it no longer bubbles and the rod is stiff. Then reinstall. Guaranteed there is no air in that part of the line. You can also pump some oil into the slave via the bleeder valve prior to snapping the line in. Less air to bleed the better, IMO.
+Brant Addy Thanks for the tips, it can be an extreme pain to get air out of that system.
Youre definitely somebody's dad lol. Appreciate this video greatly; subscribed.
Just completed the entire job. Your video was crucial and perfect step by step, thanks for saving me cheese.
No wispier swearing this time! I am proud of you Jake!
I pulled my trans from a datsun 260z with a floor jack and went trough the same pain like you. Kinda got me thinking to buy a transmission jack (or to make one using an old jack)
Good work buddy. Learned a lot from this video as I bought ford ranger and I know I have to replace clutch in near future, so it helped me a lot. Where is the video prior to this one where you opened up starter, cross bars and all that good stuff. Thanks
I think when you go to buy a new car or truck, on the sticker, there should be a list of the 5 most ignorant repairs you will have to make on your new 25-35,000 dollar purchase. My truck has 140,000 miles, I bought it new and this is why I will really research my next purchase. IT WILL NOT BE A FORD MANUAL TRANSMISSION. Thanks for the video , your attitude was much healthier than mine.
Fantastic vedio! Cant thank you enough for your help!Its 4 degrees out in New York and my friend says don't worry its only 3 bolts.
j cole Oh I sure wish it was just 3 bolts! Thanks for the comment and stay warm.
cool video, that show lost was pretty exciting at first, ima bust out a ranger flywheel tonight my ring gear srtripped or something, your vids rock and the earth could be flat thanks
+Caleb Ponder haha thanks for the earth shape shout out.
Thanks bro. Got a feelin I’ll be doing this same procedure some day. But informative man thanks. As I’m sittin here mine lasted bout a year last one lasted two since I replaced the og. So I’m going on my fourth. And next time I’ll be more prepared.
The integrated slave cylinder/release bearing is probably one of the most stupidest things that manuals cars have today. They save about 3-5lbs of weight by not having a clutch fork anymore. But a tedious 3-4 hour job just to get it fixed.
I'm glad I didn't have to watch a grown man drop a transmission on his junk
TheOldGrouch would've been an awesome blooper
+TheOldGrouch: I was thinking the same thing. That part of the video was making me nervous.
Damn beat me to it that would have been a heck of a blooper I was sitting there anticipating the drop and him hitting himself with it I was fixing to start busting out laughing
I was thinking the same thing. 😮
I made two alignment pins using similar thread bolts longer though .....grinded the heads off and slides right on...done that job probably 4 or5 different times .....you can just thread them out after one or two bolts are started n snugged
That is a GREAT IDEA. I'm glad read the comments. Thank you for posting .
Your cat helps more than most of my friends. It’s always close to the action
Didn’t know you did ranger content. ❤
LOL the promised laand! love this guy. esPECially cause i feel his pain with that dam wrench always being juuust out of fingertip reach. hahaaa.
Great video, must have watched it 10 times during my install! NOTE: The King Cab Ranger has the exhaust that wraps around the bellhousing. I had to remove (ie. cut) it before being able to drop the transmission. Then of course I had to drill all of the bolt holes out! Sigh. Everything else was the same. Thanks again.
Any v6 ranger had that, I didn't realize it was in the way until I got my transmission slightly out and now i have to figure something out
Loved the video, you're pretty hilarious. Totally agree what you said about Lost.
Man oh man… I pulled the driveshaft, crossmember, and on the last bolt on the bell housing yet realized the clutch pedal linkage was off the pedal entirely. Holy shit. What a fckin day. Guess I’ll go ahead and put the new slave cylinder in since I’m already here… 😂
Dude you waxed right over the most difficult part of the whole enchilada- bleeding the hydraulic line. But thanks for the contribution.
True
I've syphoned it out from the reservoir while putting more into it.
Where the fill line enters the slave cylinder, red rtv sealer around the tube. There is an O ring inside ,it wears out from vibrations. Mine lasted 7 years, changing it today.
Very good point . Could save many a lot of time and frustration. Thanks for posting
Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience. Very useful.
that corney ending got a like, favorite, and subscribe from me. haha
Great presentation! Camera work & explanations!
9 year old video and is going to help me do this job. Thank You
You're welcome! Hope the job goes well.
Great video well instructed and good directions 10/10. Video helps a lot.
Glad it helped!
Awesome video. Can we see all of your ranger repairs in the future? I have the 2004 model and just started working on my own truck driveway style
Great and informative video, What the hell was Ford thinking. Will tackle this next week.
+David Colton They were probably just trying to guarantee future work for their service department
Great video and you are so nice. I usually say a cuss word every sentence when I am working on my truck 😂
lost was my favorite show too. I feel you on the let down. very good video
+Devon Irvin Thanks, glad you liked the video. Lost just makes me bitter. What a cop out! It could've been so much more!
How are you NOT swearing like a sailor while doing this !???..
@Dax Jamie imagine making two accounts to do this
Swearing doesn't help since the trans. and Ford are not easily insulted.
This video was every helpful thank you for it God Bless
Thank sir for this video, you gave me an idea on my approach to this rangers slave clutch, great video
I love fords, but man they messed up making a slave cylinder internal
+Skyler Ridner yes this was a terrible idea.
Skyler Ridner
Umm you can't really blame Ford for that... it's a Mazda transmission, so it would be a Mazda engineering fuck up.
All Ford's after 86 started going internal my 88 f150 has it and has no clutch period I have air some freakin where and this vid didn't help lol oh well back to the drawing board
@@old-fashionedJoe83 and then Ford fucked up by agreement to use that design.People do fucked up shitt all the time but you don't need to follow .
Ford was ahead of their time doing this, they last longer, easier to bleed when replacing as well as most vehicles use internal now.
your videos saved me hundreds of dollars man, i did this on a 95 with 200k ohio salt miles so it wasnt easy. i read in my haynes manual to slightly lift the engine as well ( my theory is that it will help the shaft have a better angle to go in the engine.
keep it up man
Man is a legend, hands down.
Wow this is a great video. Nice angles. it's clear you put alot of time into it. That being said, mine's a 4wd so I think it's time to sell.
+Tim Cole Yes this job is a pain. I really thought about selling mine when I realized I needed to replace the slave cylinder again.
Lifetime warranty means lifetime of replacing the same part over and over again.
How did the perfection slave cylinder hold up?
Great video man! Especially for a 8 year old video!
Thanks for great amazing attitude video. U did very well with everything. Thank you
Thanks! Glad you liked the video!
This video helped me a ton. Thank you
Great video. Very helpful, I'll be attempting this here shortly.
My friend I like your style..
I'm very happy , some day we work together..😀
FYI @Jennies_Garage, without this video, I would've had a much more miserable time doing this on mine. Thank You.
Invest in a good transmission jack or rent one. Not that expensive to rent and you only need to rent for one day in the most cases. It makes installing transmission easier.
Thanks for this video. Just started having problems with my clutch and boy oh boy am I reconsidering doing this in my driveway in mid-January.
Bobby Wheatley lol my clutch went out yesterday I gotta 93
imagine if you were in Alaska? or somewhere in Canada!
Enjoyed your video. All the "tips and tricks" you can provide are most helpful.
P.S. you need a (new) helper with hands instead of claws!
The Motorcraft part is only a few $ more than the aftermarket one. Personally, I would go the OEM route.
Thanks for sharing this information. It was very helpful. 😀 👌👍
50hp added 😆 had me rolling great video. 👍
Love it 🤣
Dust jacket is there to keep junk from coming out of the new slave cylinder until it is too late LOL.
I'm doing this in the next few days (Clutch, flywheel, seals and such between work) on an f150 with a 4.6l so the exhaust crosses under the tail right where the mount is. Oh and my dumba#! lowered it 4 inch before I decided to replace the clutch.
When was the last time you replaced your clutch? Your fingers look like they are worn uneven from the 8:32 shot. The reason I'm asking is I was wondering if you went through the trouble of replacing the Rear Main seal, shaft bushing, and the seal behind the slave cylinder. It looks like you did replace the tail shaft seal or you live in a very clean area.
Oh do you ever get called Cameron Frye (Alan Ruck)?
a little levity. A lot of wisdom and experience. thanks!
humorous and very knowledgeable! Thanks!!
Awesome video. Loved the cat too
That looked real fun. I bet you neck muscles hurt for a few days.
I just put the crosmember back in to line the trans up. Also helped hold it.
Like the way you used your legs as a jack-stand.
+angelisone Yeah probably not the best idea
doing this tomorrow. thanks man!
Great video. I've got a 98 Ranger xl 5spd and it's tough to get in AND out of gear. Also ghost revs up past 2k rpms when I take it out of gear while moving 30+ mph until I come to a complete stop, then rpms drop. Does this sound like a slave cylinder issue? Thanks
lakedrywater same things on mine
Hey thank you for the video. Great advice two.
Glad to help, thank you.
Another thing, use the best quality fluid. If you’re at Dollar General, they can say clutch fluid, or Cam2, don’t buy it. Get the correct fluid at the dealership! There’s your problem. Hyper tech. Leave it there son. You may soon be doing this again. I hope not. Drain and replace that fluid. My clutch and pressure plate has some wear, but was usable, the bearing was still good, but I replaced it all. My 2.5 in-line 4 will smoke the tires in second on good gas, if you put the rpm to it. Great video. Thanks.
very good job my friend,thank you! your video help me a lot
+Zenen Bautista Glad I could help, thanks!
Very Helpful thank you. Now Im going to have to try and fix mine.
great video I just got this from oriellys mine is like your newer one you just put in I hope I don't have to turn around and do this next year again
The 12 point bolts are so they don't strip just for anyone wondering why 12 points
thanks, was looking for a vid on the slave....(one of fords better ideas) lol
great video and funny at the same time . Thank you
Did your hydraulic line just go right into the slave cylinder ? I can not get the line to stay in. It just keeps popping out
victor torpin mine was doing same thing. If you have a little clip on it make sure that’s in and make sure the plastic piece is not pushed in and it should snap in
Did this slave cylinder actually last
Did you remove the starter motor to take out the transmission 🤔🤔🤔
Soooooo did this "improved" slave cylinder last any longer ?
Currently working on an 89 truck with this...am in there for the clutch but will replace the slave while I'm in there. Am in the MIDST of the job right now as of typing this after just removing the transmission...which decided to go lopsided on the trans jack after backing it away. Ended up using a screwdriver to break the connection away from the old slave so I still get to deal with it...but at a more manageable position that is free from the trans. Why oh WHY did FORD decide it was a good idea for the gasser version of the ZF to have the internal slave while the diesel had external like on my 91 with the 7.3 non-turbo?