How To Fix a Dead Clutch Pedal
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- Опубліковано 27 вер 2024
- My brother brought me his 2005 Honda Element. He said he had difficulty shifting it into gear. When I inspected it, I found the clutch pedal was on the floor, so he had no clutch at all. Further inspection revealed that the clutch master cylinder had failed.
In this video I show you, not only how to fix this issue, but also how to drive the vehicle just enough to get it to safety.
Thanks for watching!
#ETCGVideo #HondaElement #Clutch
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1:00 That is a great trick for anyone that drives a manual. When my clutch gave out on me in traffic, I was able put the car in gear with the engine off. This allowed me to limp the car off the main road into a nearby parking space and wait for a tow truck. Totally saved me from causing a huge traffic nightmare.
I drove a bread truck for years. I’ve driven a whole bread route with a broken clutch cable by parking in granny-1st & using the starter to get it moving. Most people don’t know you can do that…but most people can’t drive a manual!
The original Hybrid engine =)
I could change gear in my car with out pressing the clutch lol it’s just timing funny how we would drive when younger my mini had no fuel gauge so had to turn it off slammed the brakes to hear how much splash I could hear lol Or drive back home in the same gear lol
Clutch cable didn’t snap for me but clutch pedal stopped working so I did what you did and finished wheeling the rest of the day then drove home 2 hours like that 🤣
I learned to drive stick without a clutch back in my old VW bug days. A vital skill.
Had a clutch cable goes on my '82 Subaru. Downtown. Learned real fast how to start in first gear. Clutchless shifting was pretty easy and I was doing it prior to the failure anyways.
A good skill to have if driving older vehicles...
Cheers,
Back long ago Volkswagen had an automatic stick shift you can shift it but you didn't need a clutch I remember that as well My first learn to drive that way was in a wagon of Volkswagen wagon
@@mikedurnell yes the stick o matic. Friend had one. Kinda cool.
Most Americans learned to drive without a clutch, as the majority drive automatic cars.
You’ll be buying a new clutch long before me.
My clutch died on me tonight and I have been nonstop searching the Internet for help on what's wrong and how to fix it. While diagnosing it, I noticed that a part had a screw fail but I didn't know what the part was or if it was why my clutch failed. This video has almost the exact same engine and failure which made it so easy to understand. You are a life saver. Thank you.
Had this happen to me a few years ago. Did the same thing. Drove for a km to a workshop. Don't ever want that experience again. Didn't have the tools or the courage or knowledge to fix it myself.
Dude I changed master and slave on my wife's 2005 Civic, and it's almost impossible to get all the air out of the line without removing the slave and line from the engine bay and hanging them up so all the air goes to the slave to bleed it. I spent 2 days with a vacuum assisted bleeder and it simply would not come out until I did this. Just hanging the slave up as high as possible, cracking the bleeder open, and applying some vacuum and the air literally came rushing out, reinstalled everything and I finally had a solid pedal. Just a heads up.
If they were aftermarket parts I'm not surprised. I have more issues bleeding aftermarket parts than OE parts.
Actually it was the way the line is ran, the parts are Exedy parts, and I have never had any problems with them before. The convoluted way they ran the clutch hardline from the factory makes it a royal bitch
I bled the clutch hydraulics in my '05 Element using the gravity-flow method. Worked great. Also, IMHO, the bare wire ground cable is to enhance flexibility of the wire in that area due to normal movement of the engine/transmission. Without such modification, the wire may break prematurely at the lug you just installed. New Honda ground cables are still sold thus way.
Next time, ETCG gives us some barely legal clutch action! I am SOOOO buying that bleeder!
We know where you can find it ;)
This happened to me today on a road trip long distance. I forgot to check the clutch master cylinder fluid. It was empty no clutch. Almost panic. I filled it up. Pumped the clutch pedal with the engine running. Clutch action came back.
I had a similar problem with the clutch not disengaging. The shop I originally used to replace the clutch used a jobber throw of bearing and clutch and pressure plate of which the throw off bearing was a few mm's thinner than the British Leyland model, Cost $800 parts and labor and that was a lotta molla back then in the 70's. I removed that clutch 3 times myself after that ( MGB complete engine and gearbox out of car to do the clutch) and bought all new parts from Leyland to figure out what the problem was. After using all Leyland parts it worked just fine from there on.
9:30 "I recommend cleaning it up before insertion, it should go in a lot easier"
Last summer my clutch cylinder went out on a trail at the bottom of a hill 3hr from home. That was a fun few days having to revmatch to shift.
I think this was a fantastic video! I can't perform my own repairs anymore however, i love learning and I'm from the 60's. I've never had a hydraulic clutch so for me this video was very educational!
IF it was a broken clutch disc torsion damper spring when you selected 1st or REV with the wheels on the ground that metal to metal contact makes noise. Screeching, rubbing and even a ticking sound. When you use vacuum to bleed to make it more effective wrap the threads of the bleed screw with Teflon tape, several turns. But no tape on the taper seat. The tape just creates a much better seal rather than air being pulled past the threads bypassing it's job. MC push rod adjustment is a critical part of setting these up. You want the piston seal just behind the port that feeds it fluid. If it's in front then it holds pressure and fluid cannot freely flow back and forth from MC to reservoir. Also the adjustment must allow the clutch pedal UP bump stop to be the pedal stop not the pushrod/piston/retaining clip of the MC. One easy way to check if the port is closed, remove reservoir cap, compress the pushrod of the SC and watch for the fluid level to rise in the reservoir. Fluid comes up, good. Doesn't come up, pushrod is adj too long.
Great video! After driving stick for so long, idk why it took me so long to remember to turn it off before shifting after my pedal did the same. Thanks for the help
I drove my 2004 Golf home drunk about 10 miles from Atlanta like this. Shifting without the clutch is the really fun part.
I replaced my slave, but I injected fluid in to its bleeder, had someone work the clutch pedal, until the reservoir was full.
I used a new 2 qt old fashioned oil can. No air issues.
I used excedy steel lines and master/slave. It's been great!
They make great stuff.
+1 for those excedy parts. They’ve been great in my ep3
No petle
Will u have to move treans?
I really like the video, I’m automobile student 💚
Thanks Eric!, You just gave me the clue (at the end of the video)as to why I have an intermittent pedal problem, replaced the slave recently, the master a couple years ago. I know that at least one of the clutch springs is broken because of a knock during quick acceleration or gas on, gas off. thanks for the tip! getting a heavy duty clutch installed asap.
If you guys and gals need a quality fluid extractor, we have plenty of the one Eric uses, as well as two other sizes! #StayDirty
I do need one.
Cant work on it font kno what im doin on a 96 ford explore
So when this video came out I opened it up but didn't watch it. Little did I know but the day after this video came out my slave cylinder would die on the parkway leaving me stuck on the shoulder (After floating gears down the highway for a few miles trying to get off to local roads).
I wound up changing it on the shoulder (Had the part on me as I was on the way to change it). I bled it well enough on my own that I was able to at least get off the highway.
I always enjoy your videos Eric, just to learn a little bit more. A guy can never know too much! Cheers, and Thank you !
Very Nice fluid extractor Eric @EricTheCarGuy
I noticed Eric had a little more trouble speaking than usual today "...sent me a test - text- last weekend...", "I'll be tapping - I'll be tackling that...". I know the feeling. Some days a lifetime of accumulated drain bamage just overrides your ability to cleak spearly.
good video, Honda products are friendly to the mechanics...
Youre the best Eric.. learn new crap everytime
just a tip, it's a very good idea to start and run the engine in neutral for about 15-30s before doing that "starting in gear" trick, just to get the oil to the bearings so you don't put an instant huge load on a dry engine
I watch a few different vids on the same thing so I can learn more then one method cus some are better easier ways and this dude covers everything 👌I appreciate your knowledge 💯
Eric, that’s funny you are worried with the DOT3 fluid not to be spilled on the paint cause it will “eat it” while covering the holes of the pump containing fluid with your fingers without gloves! (no criticism… I often do the same while bleeding my bike’s brakes 😊). I love your videos!
You might also have too much air in the master cylinder. If you leave the vehicle tipped upward overnight the air bubbles should come to the breather valve.
I don't think that's the issue, especially after bleeding a second time. I'm almost positive there is an issue with the clutch that I hope to cover in a future video. Thanks for the comment.
I had this issue on my Subaru a few years ago and I replaced the slave myself and it also wasn't the issue. Replacing that was relatively easy on a Subaru, but once I removed it, it was pretty obvious that the lever it pushed against that went into the transmission had no spring retention. I ended up having the clutch replaced which cost me $1,600 but I don't particularly know if I needed that to be done or what the actual issue was.
I’m having this same issue right now with my Subaru, the clutch fork has a lot of play and isn’t tight against the slave. Pulling the tranny out this weekend and hoping it’s just the bearing I need to fix or re-align it instead of replacing the clutch… wish me luck
Anytime I have tried bleeding a brake or clutch system with a fluid extractor I have found that it will pull air from the threads around the bleeder screw itself. This will make it impossible to evacuate all the air out of the system as it is picking up air from the least restrictive place. To correct this, I remove the bleeder screw completely and apply a heavy coating of thick grease to the threads and then thread it back in. the grease act as a temporary sealant which allows the suction tool to apply full suction to the system
That's a great tip. Thanks.
What about contamination from the grease?
@@mdarguschuse silicon paste instead
She was Eric I haven't seen you on here in a long time Glad to have you back
Can’t wait to see your next video
That pin on the fitting looks like a construction staple @EricTheCarGuy
A lot of clutch slaves have the bleeder below the line. I've had some luck unbolting the slave, getting the bleeder above the line, and pushing the piston in manually with the bleeder open. Sometimes just cracking the bleeder and pushing the piston in will do the trick as well.
Very clean, I love my element 07 lx 5 speed I put 20mm hub spacers on it and 235 70`s on it. Looks great. The tires are flush with the fender
I use to love being a Mechanic till they started making cars smaller an smaller an adding more an more crap under the hood an then back in the late 70's -80's there was 20 miles of lil plastic vacuum lines going everywhere , We had a lil guy in the shop we would hang him by his ankles in some places to get to certain parts myself being 6ft 3 an 250 lbs there was some places I just didn't fit you know like having to have over 2 feet of extensions with a wobble socket on the end -- ok I'm IN an Locked - oh damn it slipped LOL , So In the 90's moved over to Heavy Equipment, while true there were a few wrench's that were damn near 3 feet long an heavy AF , Sockets that you needed both hands to pick up but it was a trade off , the electronic I really didn't mind as I sorta grew with the industry on that aspect of it an most of the ole timers just didn't want to learn the new systems,
Thanks for sharing Eric. Stay safe and well Artie 😊🙏
"How to fix a dead ...." perfect intro while I'm making dinner.
Notification squad!!! FIRST!!
No b******* and straight to the point. This is what makes good clips......nice shop also
You should try this on a civic there is even less access. The original Honda part failed the same way. The replacement lasted a week then did the same thing. We ended up replacing master, slave, and flex line.
The Element shift boot is pretty cool.
God that looks so weird a element that’s manual never seen that before lol
Eric..i have a 2006 Gto. Sometimes i have a clutch, sometimes not.
No pressure...
6-speed cant even get it in gear sitting on level ground
30,000 miles
Pumping sometimes brings it back, sometimes not.
Sometimes no pressure at all.
Watching other videos it might simply be a $0.50 o-ring where the line from from the master cylinder resiveour connects to slave cylinder.
It sits a lot, you can tell from mileage but i crank it kinda often...
Right now i have pressure and have had for about two months but its subject to have no pedal at all when i go out there to crank it next time.
I have had to add fluid and viewed bubbles when i got someone else to pump the clutch pedal.
Shops immediately tell me i need a whole new slave cylinder...700 or more.
Im a 74 year old disabled vet. It stranded me once. I added about 20 drops of fluid and got my clutch back. It wasnt below the tube line, it was over half full. I had clutch when i left and it disappeared once i stopped. A friend brought me some fluid and i added those few drops, pumped it and BOOM, I HAD A CLUTCH AGAIN, WEIRD, WEIRD,WEIRD.
COULD IT SIMPLY BE THAT O-RING?
I need that fluid extractor in my life.
Yeah you do! ;)
I LOVE mine. You'll be seeing a lot more if it.
The only image I get thru my head from your comment is Hilary vacuuming off Bill Clinton's sigar.... a pretty old meme pic....
We have one and use it all the time for our Argo
No neutral safety switch?
Manual cars don't have a neutral safety switch, they have a clutch safety switch - if the pedal wasn't all the way to the floor, you'd have to press it to actuate the switch.
@@jasonyoung6420 I believe my Nissan has both. I just put it into neutral and push in the clutch out of habit. I don't remember if my Honda did, that was a long time ago.
You were looking at the clutch switch when I replaced the master. It was mounted just above the clutch pedal on the bracket.
@@ericthecarguy either that or the cruise control stop switch.
Good video Eric @EricTheCarGuy
Hey Eric, love your videos. Just to add my Chevy Sonic F17 gearbox pedal went to the floor. Initially I thought i lost hydraulic but it was the two sheet metal screws that held the pedal to the assembly sheared off. Luckily I placed a crescent wrench behind the pedal body and worked until I was able to fix it. Pain in the neck to repair.
WTF! Damn that’s some Bean counter’s doing right there!
9:32 "I recommend cleaning it up before insertion. It should go in alot easier" - ETCG, 2021
All jokes aside, great video!
I was wondering who else would catch that
I'm a gentleman... I clean up before AND after insertion! If I have a spill on the fender I always clean up after myself too.
Gotta keep the 5th grade boys entertained!
Genuinely, thank you Eric for the tip on adjusting the clutch pedal. I will definitely check that when I get back into working on my Mazda B2000. Btw, the clutch master is really for a 1989 International S1700 dump truck and the slave is for a 1986 Toyota Supra. Did you ever think that would work? 😆 lol
My '97 s10 5 speed had a little plastic connector/bearing that linked the clutch pedal to the master(slave?) and fell to the floor. took a while to diagnose it, but ultimately was a $2 fix.
When I was 16 I had a 1965 Simca there was a problem with the clutch slave cylinder hahaha I knew nothing about working on cars I had a Chilton manual I sold the car as is. 😎 PS: that was in 1969 a little older and wiser now I think 😃
Sadly the put in gear trick wasn't an option for me I was on steep narrow hill.
I've had 3 clutch mc's fail in my Element within 3 years, all from NAPA. Makes me wonder if these things were made in England. lol.I wish it had a cable operated couch like my CR-X, a so much better design as its an easy fix when a cable lets fly , plus you can adjust the pedal height low, making it easier to shift in bumper to bumper traffic.
Wish you were helping me with my 98 honda civic ex slave cylinder.
That was supposed to say gee whiz anyway glad to see you back on here
Thanks for that. However, I never left. You're just not getting notifications unfortunately. Me and the algorithm don't get along.
My clutch pedal has been dead ever since I moved to an automatic. 🤪
I keep stomping on my dead pedal in the car when I hit the brakes after I take the motorcycle for a ride. 😊
Glad your in your element ⛅great tip as usual 🤷♂️🤔
Just had my clutch pedal go to the floor, it came back but wont engage in any gear.
I adapted a hydraulic clutch from an 85-87 Chevy C10 to my '78 C10. The master recently failed after 10 years+. I couldnt bleed it for shit....I had bench bled the new master....I read about gravity bleeding....I took the bleeder nipple off the slave and after 2 hours i finally got a few dribbles out of the slave. I tried bleeding it like brakes, but it would lose prime...I gravity bled it for another 2 hours....got a few dribbles, replaced the bleeder and then just pumped the shit outta the pedal and it was good to go.
Gotta do this to my 96 Tacoma as well as a clutch replacement. I have a small hand pumped extractor that I've used on brake jobs, but it's always been awkward to use. I might have to invest in one of those big ones. Thanks, Eric.
You can get cheap smaller ones on Amazon
We have three sizes! There are always cheap options out there, but there aren't any that are better :)
yup ive done that direct gear start and i find its hard to shift into 2nd but easier to shift ro 3rd esp if we need to get to about 5 km or more to my mechanic
Helps to warm it up first!!!!
you can start it in gear and drive it like you did but you dont have to shut the key off to stop you should be able to pull it out of gear and coast to a stop with a running car so you can have the power steering and brakes . i have driven a foxbody mustang home because of a stripped plastic gear on the clutch pedal cable adjustment . it was a dead pedal just like that but non hydraulic . i was able to shift it without the clutch just fine . it did suck at the lights having to shut it off and start it in first every time . people behind me had to think i was an idiot first time standard driver bucking like a bronco every time . compression is a bitch lol
This isn't a fox body Mustang. It won't come out of gear unless you have the revs right. Which are much higher than 'parking lot speeds'. It's very hard to pull out of gear otherwise. Sounds like you were able to manage your car just fine though. Well done. Thanks for the comment.
Always helpful , always learn somethin. Muchas gracias
Dying to see the next video transmission down.
This is wonderfully clear and well explained.
As far as driving it is concerned - you can drive it long distance if you have to. To change gears, you'll need to match the speeds of the engine and transmission depending on which gear your in - quite tricky but can be done. Also you can pull the car into neutral without the clutch for smoother stopping. Just will have to shut the engine off, put it back into 1st/rev and then restart.
lol I remember when I did this in a city. When I finally make upshift I come at the red so I was like a jerk mostly doing loud 30km/h on first. Much later I thought maybe I was just dumb and could have started from 2nd and accelerate. It was my plan to check if it works starting from 2nd but have forgotten to do this. It's also good method to ruin tranny on bad forceful entry attempts.
I wish they still used cable clutches. I have a 1993 Chevy S-10, and the clutch master cylinder failed on it. Easy enough to replace, but it was a nightmare to bleed. Took several tries. Should have been a simple gravity bleed job. I have owned three VW bugs (of the rear engined air cooled variety) They could actually be shifted without the clutch without grinding gears if you matched the engine speed and road speed properly. I currently have a 1972 Ford Pinto wagon with a cable clutch. Because parts can be difficult to find for this car, I have gotten a couple more clutch cables for it in case one breaks.
This was a complete nightmare on my 2003 Honda Accord,same engine but the lines even with a flare wrench took over an hour to remove,and I wish I had the fluid bleeder tool,it took an almost an hour to find get the fluid to come out.
Don't forget to check the clutch pedal assembly. The attachment bracket can crack , causing pedal to not fully engage the clutc. It mimics a bad clutch cylinder.
I've never seen that. Not saying it can't happen. If it was happening with this assembly I would think it would make a noise or cause the clutch pedal to bind when activated. I didn't see any of that. Thanks for the comment.
Had to stitch mine up. I was kinda lost, a user on reddit suggested I looked. Sure enough it was cracked on left side along the bolt almost hidden by the fuse box. I dunno how I missed it after replacing the master.
Grab it and see if it moves side to side.
I found that unbeknownst to me my clutch was almost worn out. Think the master cylinder broke because the worn out clutch was causing a low hard pedal. 1st aftermarket broke. Replaced the clutch at 105,000 and a honda master cylinder and slave cylinder now smooth as butter.
I like to push the pedal a few times while flushing, to make sure I get all the air out of the system.
And I don't bother with that bleeder valve fitting, as they tend to not work very well with most vacuum bleeders. I prefer to use a silicon hose, as it fits much better, and I'm able to use the round end of the wrench.
Hey thanks for the video. Definitely some good info there. I actually had the spring come off of mine just as you had suspected here.
Thanks for another video tips sir Eric, this video are very useful information.👍
Beautiful. Thanks. Gettin ready to do that
I had a 1977 Celica , the Clutch Master Cylinder kept going out.. even with OEM parts. I went thru 5 of them in 300k miles. and 1 slave cylinder and 1 clutch. that must be why the there was a mid year model change on this part and I had the old problematic one
Something extra - In racing cars, the dead pedal is used to cut down the response time in activating the clutch and is integral to the smooth actuation of the clutch.
✌️
Should there be any play in the clutch fork with the clutch pedal released? If no, does adjusting the push rod inside remove that play?
Having the slave cylinder mounted externally is so much better when it's time to
replace it. My truck like so many other manual vehicles has the slave mounted
inside the bell housing. What an absolutely dumb idea that was!!
It actually provides better leverage since it doesn't have to work through a clutch fork. As a general practice I try and replace that type of slave cylinder anytime I do a clutch. Thanks for the comment.
Yeah, those fittings are in tight, and the bushing those lines run into are not threaded, they have roll pins in the. So if you are planning on changing that line keep that in mind
Yeah, he shows it, that piece he pulls out and is talking about being homemade. Around 9 minutes
Great video mister Eric.
Possibly some fingers on pressure plate could've broken off as well?
Hondas have lots of issues on master cylinder if it has dampener. Pretty rare to see fingers break if clutch bearing is good.
I've never seen that, but I've seen plenty of springs that have fallen out. Not saying it isn't possible.
Eric: I recommend cleaning it up...before insertion.
Well... yeah... I hope so Eric! :P
I would add that for a sunk pedal, often you can just pull it up to use it to shift once more if needed. The corollary problem is when the pedal is down and the lever remains stuck in gear.
Obviously you need to keep your eyes on the road tho and your wits about you. It can help to pick something like 2nd or 3rd that will give you a reasonable speed range, if possible. When the end finally came for me, I only had 1st and drove home at 5,xxx rpm while still holding up city traffic.
Did all this on my '06 Accord V6 sedan 6MT. Same basic design for both parts, right down to the bolt sizes. The clutch master in particular is a horrible design with that triangular diaphragm that blows apart the case just like in the video. Missing bolts = normal, once it happens! So miserable working in there I couldn't fit my hands to make the line connections without "an assistant." The Element seems much better in that regard.
And oh my, ETCG you either read my question on your forums or read my mind. After the wife and I teamed up to replace both the clutch master and slave last year, the car shifted fantastic for a week and then the same problem started again. Knowing we had done all we knew to do we gave up and had a shop repeat the same procedure with "their" parts so at least it would be on them if it didn't work out.
Well, it shifts fine until it gets hot and/or you shift often (city driving) ... it could be that the free play needs a slight adjustment but I DO suspect the spring and fingers issue you mentioned at the end. I can see how a loose spring might stay out of the way sometimes, and other times flop into the wrong area. My WORRY is that this is a perpetuating problem because if the clutch then requires greater force to move it away, or you're trying to press the fingers while they're jammed against the loose spring the hydraulics are all gonna take more abuse.
Thank you, Etcg.
Helpful information, thank you for sharing sir !
What was the fluid you rinsed the clutch line out with? I don't see that mentioned in the description.
Great and very helpful video. I have a problem changing gears on cold mornings but it goes away if I turn the key off or let the engine warm up. One certified mechanic thinks it's the (extremely old) clutch. another wants to replace the master and slave (for the third time). Does anyone have a clue on which way to go?
Have the same problem right now too 😅on my civic si 2006 the guy changed it 3 times keeps breaking & my clutch is almost new
Wow that power bleeder is awsome
Great job
Would it be detrimental to replace only the master cyl. and not the slave?
Thank you so much for this video. Tow truck thank you so much
Line wrench aka flair wrench aka tubing wrench as well as many other names the name is different around the world kinda like a pumpkin and or Mellon is a diff @5:03 @EricTheCarGuy
Dude, happiest person to see that extractor? That’s right, he be #cameramanbrian 😂😂😂😂
I had a clutch replacement. Since then both cylinders master and the other 4 time have failed
Came across this same failure on same year element, 2 screws had backed out of that plate and it started leaking