I love this channel. You tell people what I have been telling people for a long time. Engine/car building isn't just through a few parts at it. Everything down to the coolant and oil temp, even the weight of oil you run has an affect. Build your system, not your engine.
When building my first 4 cylinder turbo engine in 2003, i took suggestions from a book called "Maximum Boost" by Corky Bell. I lowered my compression to 8.8:1. The engine originally came with 9.5:1. I will put the compression back to factory. I read somewhere that you should build a fast and powerful N/A engine, add a turbo and it will be faster and more powerful with proper tuning. I also installed "turbo cams" to reduce the valve overlap. The bottom end is forged and ARP bolts everywhere. I have a GT3582R waiting to go on it for years now. I can't wait until i can play with that combo again
Richard, I've seen your vids on the 4200 atlas, and we've all been impressed. I'm curious, however, about the 3.7 atlas. Same as the 4200, just an I5, not an I6. Truth be told, my brother wants me to build a turbo 3700 to toss into an s10, so I'm trying to decipher what all I can do. I've noticed tons of people will lock VVT and lose out on a ton of potential power, and I'd be super stoked to see the torque curve of that. I love your videos, they're always so informative. Especially this one now that I've got a project on my hands lol
I would like to see a 200-250 i6 Ford turbo and na power .. I sound odd considering my dad had a 67 mustang 200 his daily drive I beat the hell out it run it on 114 race fuel dad was pissed . So in my old age looking at building i6 falcon I gain a little respect For the 200 a few reverse to drive drop the rear end didn't last broke both engine mounts.
9 to 1 on my coyote. Reasonable safety margin without being too low and okay boost response. I almost wonder if 10 to 1 would have been better but it makes like 550hp on 5psi works for me for now.
A low compression engine with a big turbo will lag like crazy. The low compression engine won't spool the turbo very fast. So it'll lag-lag-lag, then a sudden surge of power. That'll be fine for drag racing. But drivability will suffer. If you're looking to turbo a street car, I'd advise leaving the compression ratio alone and size the turbo accordingly.
How about more compression and just bleed pressure at low RPM by extra-long intake valve opening? Then you will still have good cylinder fill at high RPM and high compression.
Thanks! I stay in Cincinnati and I just bought a Rotax fr125 Max engine. It's a 2 cycle since I got it so cheap I have to rebuild it cause it's been sitting and I don't wanna distroy it. But I figure if I have to rebuild it I can get a mini turbo for like 100$ off ebay and I also looked at a EFI kit the sell on custom demand for 250$ im really wanting to boost it and I actually wanna make boost most people I see ran the carburetor before the turbo so it basically runs the gas through the turbo and I definitely am not doing that 😅 I see how hot turbos get sometimes. I'm trying to figure out what I should do to make sure I actually get boost I feel like the guys who do this are either getting no boost or there making almost nothing lol what's nice is the EFI kits have map sensors and also a O2 sensor which should give me a cleaner burn and ill have more gages and sensors to know what's going on. I know it can be done cause Iv seen a few people put them on quads but none did what I'm planning. Also I been messing with vehicle since I was a kid and I'm a certificated diesel tec so it should be no problem. Idk why I'm doing it but I love the idea honestly cause I know them Rotax fr125 Max engines is already the top dog for go karts the have like 28-30hp already. What's also nice is the EFI kit comes with a computer for it and a USB connection and it comes with software for my laptop.
87/88 turbo coup thunderbird low octane switch, why 😆 I'm currently in the process of putting a t3 Turbo .45 trim on a G10T MK2 (potiac fire fly turbo engine) I went with 8.25 to 1 compression (custome je pistons) to allow for higher boost levels on 93 octane. On racefuel on we're aiming for 35 to 40PSI. To brake the 200 whp wall. I think a lot of of people forget to be honest with themselves and remember what their actual goals are. Mine is to go 12.999 in a 1400lb car with only 3 cylinders and 1L.
@@richardholdener1727 The MK1 "sprint head" flows quite a bit better than the MK2 head. The hemispherical design of the 1st generation head allows for a better valve angle and Better port design (mk2 head has severe valve shrouding by the chamber bore restriction) . The Cam I'm running is reground off of a factory core. 222dur @50 I/E with 355 lift. The heads have had the port floors welded and re shaped to try and induce a smoother radius. Intake is being extrud honed to smooth the runners and remove casting material.
I see a lot of fans on the Ford FE 427. If one does a comparison of todays Ls engines, appears to me the LS borrowed a lot from the venerable FE 427. Y block configuration with cross bolt mains is obvious. Cylinder head layout is also very similar. The High Riser FE 427 head were the max with the inline 2 valve designs as it is with the improved LS heads today. The only way to make more power is to go to canted valve Cleveland style heads. Of course, 4 valve heads are more complex, but are next level power
It's a myth that running a tiny turbo to crutch a tiny engine is a good idea. The constant high rpm of the turbo eats them up long before the rest of the car is worn out and the factory installation is just about always more costly in labor to replace than the price of the parts..modern fiats and BMWs will make you want to scrap the cars over a bad turbo.
My personal favorite turbo myth is that you "need" a low overlap or reverse pattern cam. In reality you need the correct turbo for the cam you're using.
Just endlessly dumping more fuel into an engine to claim it doesn't need low compression is kind of weird. Then, on the other hand, you could waste some gas by running a low-compression engine, too, because of the reduced power output.
Thanks Richard, I have never used race gas and I only have access to 90 octane at the pump where I live, but there is an ignite race fuel distributor here as well. I know a few things about nitrous but not so much about race fuel. Maybe you can talk about race fuel even though I know for a matter of fact you spoken on this topic more times then even I can remember but a refresher course never hurt anyone🇺🇸👊🏻
You need to specify what race fuel... alcohol? nitromethane? Or do you mean race gasoline? If yes then what octane? leaded? Low leaded? Unleaded? Lead makes a big difference
I have a (pushrod)5.0 with 11R 53cc chamber and mild cam. Compression is 10.3 to 1 . Looking to put a vortech with low boost 10lbs. Have you done something like this on pump gas?
yes-it works-you just need to reduce timing to control detonation-also make sure you have a true cold air source to the blower (not hot under hood air)
Want to wake it up? Replace the gears with 3.73 if your doing a lot of highway driving, 4.10 if your using if around town or don't mind losing 2 or 3 mpg. (Mine was 25 - 26 mpg highway with 3.73, the 4.10 would get about 23 - 24) The 4.10 will be about 250 more rpm at 60mph. 3.73= better for automatic 4.10 better for manual
That will only affect the need to re-gap the ring... if you have low static compression at TDC that engine is gone and forcing air into that is gonna boost your crank case instead of your cylinders
I'm sure it was locked out mags/dizzies at 40* with a heat building 6-71@50% that caused the 7.5:1 craze. Then it trickled down through 20 years of poor translation through people who have never raced anything. This is why your channel decimates 40 years worth of crappy knowledge.
I love this channel. You tell people what I have been telling people for a long time. Engine/car building isn't just through a few parts at it. Everything down to the coolant and oil temp, even the weight of oil you run has an affect. Build your system, not your engine.
When building my first 4 cylinder turbo engine in 2003, i took suggestions from a book called "Maximum Boost" by Corky Bell. I lowered my compression to 8.8:1. The engine originally came with 9.5:1. I will put the compression back to factory. I read somewhere that you should build a fast and powerful N/A engine, add a turbo and it will be faster and more powerful with proper tuning. I also installed "turbo cams" to reduce the valve overlap. The bottom end is forged and ARP bolts everywhere. I have a GT3582R waiting to go on it for years now. I can't wait until i can play with that combo again
Richard, I've seen your vids on the 4200 atlas, and we've all been impressed. I'm curious, however, about the 3.7 atlas. Same as the 4200, just an I5, not an I6.
Truth be told, my brother wants me to build a turbo 3700 to toss into an s10, so I'm trying to decipher what all I can do. I've noticed tons of people will lock VVT and lose out on a ton of potential power, and I'd be super stoked to see the torque curve of that. I love your videos, they're always so informative. Especially this one now that I've got a project on my hands lol
Thanks for the great chat, Richard. I got a lot out of it....
Glad you enjoyed it
I would like to see a 200-250 i6 Ford turbo and na power .. I sound odd considering my dad had a 67 mustang 200 his daily drive I beat the hell out it run it on 114 race fuel dad was pissed . So in my old age looking at building i6 falcon I gain a little respect For the 200 a few reverse to drive drop the rear end didn't last broke both engine mounts.
9 to 1 on my coyote. Reasonable safety margin without being too low and okay boost response. I almost wonder if 10 to 1 would have been better but it makes like 550hp on 5psi works for me for now.
A low compression engine with a big turbo will lag like crazy. The low compression engine won't spool the turbo very fast. So it'll lag-lag-lag, then a sudden surge of power. That'll be fine for drag racing. But drivability will suffer. If you're looking to turbo a street car, I'd advise leaving the compression ratio alone and size the turbo accordingly.
How about more compression and just bleed pressure at low RPM by extra-long intake valve opening? Then you will still have good cylinder fill at high RPM and high compression.
But it makes a lot more power than high cr engine
Bummer I missed the live chat. I just found out Buick was running a knock sensor on the 1976 Buick Century Pace car with the 3.8L turbo. Mind blown 😳
Thanks! I stay in Cincinnati and I just bought a Rotax fr125 Max engine. It's a 2 cycle since I got it so cheap I have to rebuild it cause it's been sitting and I don't wanna distroy it. But I figure if I have to rebuild it I can get a mini turbo for like 100$ off ebay and I also looked at a EFI kit the sell on custom demand for 250$ im really wanting to boost it and I actually wanna make boost most people I see ran the carburetor before the turbo so it basically runs the gas through the turbo and I definitely am not doing that 😅 I see how hot turbos get sometimes. I'm trying to figure out what I should do to make sure I actually get boost I feel like the guys who do this are either getting no boost or there making almost nothing lol what's nice is the EFI kits have map sensors and also a O2 sensor which should give me a cleaner burn and ill have more gages and sensors to know what's going on. I know it can be done cause Iv seen a few people put them on quads but none did what I'm planning. Also I been messing with vehicle since I was a kid and I'm a certificated diesel tec so it should be no problem. Idk why I'm doing it but I love the idea honestly cause I know them Rotax fr125 Max engines is already the top dog for go karts the have like 28-30hp already. What's also nice is the EFI kit comes with a computer for it and a USB connection and it comes with software for my laptop.
Myth: Large intercoolers / pipes make the turbo laggy. Not true. Richard proved it in the rear mount turbo test.
87/88 turbo coup thunderbird low octane switch, why 😆
I'm currently in the process of putting a t3 Turbo .45 trim on a G10T MK2 (potiac fire fly turbo engine) I went with 8.25 to 1 compression (custome je pistons) to allow for higher boost levels on 93 octane. On racefuel on we're aiming for 35 to 40PSI. To brake the 200 whp wall. I think a lot of of people forget to be honest with themselves and remember what their actual goals are. Mine is to go 12.999 in a 1400lb car with only 3 cylinders and 1L.
I did 175 whp with the Sprint Turbo using a compound set up-you will make 200 whp well below 40 psi (ported head, cam etc..)
@@richardholdener1727 The MK1 "sprint head" flows quite a bit better than the MK2 head. The hemispherical design of the 1st generation head allows for a better valve angle and Better port design (mk2 head has severe valve shrouding by the chamber bore restriction) . The Cam I'm running is reground off of a factory core. 222dur @50 I/E with 355 lift. The heads have had the port floors welded and re shaped to try and induce a smoother radius. Intake is being extrud honed to smooth the runners and remove casting material.
All the parameters are what make this so much fun.
You mean electric whizzers aren't as much fun as real cars?
There is a video of a gen 2 lt1 Camaro making 776 rwhp on 93 octane with 16 degrees of timing. It gives me hope.
I see a lot of fans on the Ford FE 427. If one does a comparison of todays Ls engines, appears to me the LS borrowed a lot from the venerable FE 427. Y block configuration with cross bolt mains is obvious. Cylinder head layout is also very similar. The High Riser FE 427 head were the max with the inline 2 valve designs as it is with the improved LS heads today. The only way to make more power is to go to canted valve Cleveland style heads. Of course, 4 valve heads are more complex, but are next level power
Y block with cross-bolted main caps like the Hemi has been using for decades?
Go ahead, say it. The Hemi rules.
It's a myth that running a tiny turbo to crutch a tiny engine is a good idea. The constant high rpm of the turbo eats them up long before the rest of the car is worn out and the factory installation is just about always more costly in labor to replace than the price of the parts..modern fiats and BMWs will make you want to scrap the cars over a bad turbo.
HEAT under the hood in Convection Oven AZ Mid September in Convection Oven AZ it’s still over 100 degrees.
My personal favorite turbo myth is that you "need" a low overlap or reverse pattern cam. In reality you need the correct turbo for the cam you're using.
Thays what everyone always tells me🤦🏾
you just need to size the turbo for the desired power ouput
Just endlessly dumping more fuel into an engine to claim it doesn't need low compression is kind of weird.
Then, on the other hand, you could waste some gas by running a low-compression engine, too, because of the reduced power output.
Thanks Richard, I have never used race gas and I only have access to 90 octane at the pump where I live, but there is an ignite race fuel distributor here as well. I know a few things about nitrous but not so much about race fuel. Maybe you can talk about race fuel even though I know for a matter of fact you spoken on this topic more times then even I can remember but a refresher course never hurt anyone🇺🇸👊🏻
You need to specify what race fuel... alcohol? nitromethane? Or do you mean race gasoline? If yes then what octane? leaded? Low leaded? Unleaded? Lead makes a big difference
I'm wondering if turbo charge pipe has to be round or does a flater oval pipe or square of the same size flow the same
YOU CAN CHANGE SHAPE
The shape of the pipe will NOT change the flow rate or backpressure
I have a (pushrod)5.0 with 11R 53cc chamber and mild cam. Compression is 10.3 to 1 . Looking to put a vortech with low boost 10lbs. Have you done something like this on pump gas?
yes-it works-you just need to reduce timing to control detonation-also make sure you have a true cold air source to the blower (not hot under hood air)
You ever tried running compressed air for forced induction?
yes-Compressed Air Superchargers
@@richardholdener1727 I mean like a scuba tank hooked up.
Bone stock 94 gt aode 3.27 gears want a single turbo to wake up the engine>
Want to wake it up? Replace the gears with 3.73 if your doing a lot of highway driving, 4.10 if your using if around town or don't mind losing 2 or 3 mpg. (Mine was 25 - 26 mpg highway with 3.73, the 4.10 would get about 23 - 24)
The 4.10 will be about 250 more rpm at 60mph.
3.73= better for automatic
4.10 better for manual
Don’t have to run low compression just run wore out engine’s instead
high mileage = ring gap 😛
That will only affect the need to re-gap the ring... if you have low static compression at TDC that engine is gone and forcing air into that is gonna boost your crank case instead of your cylinders
I'm sure it was locked out mags/dizzies at 40* with a heat building 6-71@50% that caused the 7.5:1 craze. Then it trickled down through 20 years of poor translation through people who have never raced anything. This is why your channel decimates 40 years worth of crappy knowledge.
You can use ALT plus 176 to do the ° character. Press ALT then type 0176.
At least run boostane