Rubber stamp made with XTool D1
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- Опубліковано 23 тра 2022
- A rubber logo stamp that I made using my XTool D1 laser. I detail the way it was made, the parts used and the settings for the burn. To set the "return to" location, watch this video- • Setting the "return to...
For templates that I have made, check out my Etsy shop. I build files for projects and tools for the XTool D1.
www.etsy.com/shop/ClackCustom...
The links below are affiliate links that will direct you to the product in this video. If you use this link for a purchase, I will receive a commission from the purchase. I remain unbiased and honest in my assessment as always.
XTool Website
www.xtool.com/?ref=TheClackSh...
Amazon links
D1 bundle that I have on Amazon:
amzn.to/3sJRPMC
Ink Pad
amzn.to/3N14O4J
Stamp material
amzn.to/3NCvfx9
Gorilla epoxy glue
amzn.to/3MJQkG7 - Навчання та стиль
![Create a Rubber Stamp using my xTool [super easy xTool laser project!]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/3_gV6_Kam4k/mqdefault.jpg)
Here's a tip for you with your stamping to get a better impression...put a layer of foam between your rubber and the wood. Rubber stamps need a bit of padding or give to get a good impression, you'll have less of those "bare" areas. A thin sheet of craft foam is all you need. Plus, it will elevate it off the wood more so you get less ink on the corners of the wood block that could transfer to the surface being stamped. Another tip with regard to ink (this is from a paper perspective as I don't stamp on wood, but I imagine results would be similar)...a dye-based ink is meant to soak into the fibers of the material it is stamped on. A pigment based ink is thicker and meant to sit on top of the surface and is used when you want very crisp images, so it might bleed less if at all.
I actually have since added some foam adhesive to the mix and it works much better. Also, now that I have figured out the process, the ink doesn't bleed if you don't use as much...lol. Thanks for the tips though. All the Maymay folks corrected me...lol
Just bought my first Xtool D1. I haven’t set it up yet, but I’m enjoying watching your videos. Keep up the good work brother.
Awesome! Thank you!
Use heavy duty double-sided sticky tape (carpet store if not your local DIY). Sticks like doodah to a blanket. I'm a professional stampmaker, that's what we use with our wood mounts. You can also get it with a foam sandwich - as others have mentioned helps give a good impression.
Thanks.
Awesome logo.
Try StazON Ink. It is an alcohol based ink and therefore dries very quickly and is also meant for items that are non-porus so try a coat of sealer on the wood. . A die ink is water based and if it's a really juicy ink pad (new) it will sink in and bleed. a Pigment based ink is supposed to stay on top, but takes a while to dry - maybe with a little heat it will dry faster. It's all in the Ink. Also, if you press on the rubber very hard, it will squish out the image some and distort the image some.
Thanks
I usually hit my wood with a light coat of shellac and to prevent the bleeding. It doesn’t stop it 100% of the time, but it definitely cuts down on it on for woods that do tend to bleed
Good idea
My husband and I just found your videos after getting an XTool and we love em! We’re from SC and we made a bet that you’re from GA based on your accent?!
Alabama, Thanks
That's some pretty country in your intro, when I get my materials, I'm going to try contact cement to mount the rubber.
Sounds good!
You might want to do a quick seal with a clear enamel, helps me when I paint
Could
Interesting! Build a jig for placement of the stamp, in case the first application of ink to your project is not dark enough/not a good image. What experiments have you had with different ink brands? Always like your woodworking-related projects. Who's your 4-legged shop buddy/helper? Does MayMay stamp on wood -- could be a good resource.
I was just running a few tests, I had a good idea of how to set it up. Just did small ones until i got it dialed in. That is "Cali" she is on the mouse patrol. She is one of 3 that we rescued. They have a small pet door they use to come and go. I am not sure if she does but it works good on paper too.
Try StazOn ink and don't press hard when stamping. If the wood is porous, it may bleed anyway, but Stazon is designed for a number of surfaces.
Thanks, I will try that
I have a contractor that makes cabinets for me and he burns his logo into the wood. I just found this website so I'm not sure if you've tried that before but it's very nice burned in the wood.
Yes, some use a brand. I was using the laser to do it but now my laser stays too busy on other jobs. My third laser is ordered.
Thanks for the helpful information! I'm trying to get into engraving silicone apple watch bands. I'm having a ROUGH time getting the settings right. I tried finding videos on it on your page and elsewhere, but no luck. Have to done them before? If so what setting do you use? Speed, power, LPI, runs? I use a Xtool D1Pro any help would be great! Thanks for the great content!👌
Silicon is tricky. I have some that I have tried. Haven't done any on the D1.
@TheClackShack Appreciate the quick reply! People do them with great results on the D1 and similar machines, and I'm astounded on how since I can't get decent results. If you ever dive into it, I'd love to watch a video on it since there isn't much knowledge out there it seems.😪
Another cool video-do you have a go to test grid you use for new material?
Or is just go for it !!!
Thanks
In the early days, I did a grid on every material. Now, I do pretty well at guessing the power. It really depends on the situation. I sometimes have customer bring me pieces that they want engraved for weddings or such. In this case, a test burn is not an option. I estimate the power setting and run the burn slightly less than my estimate to be safe. Sometimes I may have to add an additional pass to get the desired effect but not often. In the case of wood I use, I have burn charts on all the species that I typically use. You can see the most frequently used ones hanging on the wall behind my machine in the videos.
@@TheClackShack
Thanks again
I used eva form for stamps
If it works.. Nice
Where did you get your laser cut glasses? They look like wrap around type.
Amazon, I wanted something more low profile than the ones that came with the machine. I left guests use the original ones.... amzn.to/3N3t9ql
Have you thought about getting a brand with your logo? I have a buddy who does a lot of wood products and he had a brand made and uses an electric branding iron to imprint his logo on the projects.
I have stamps, I considered CNCing a brass heat stamp but it would take longer to use. Not a priority
I am looking for an engraved custom make stamp, it'll be used on felt material and on paper maché items. Do you think it will work on this type of materials?
I use mine on wood and cardboard. The ink would be the important part. There are many different inks
looks like you need some MayMay tips on how you can get your logo stamped correctly lol...
I may...lol
Would it work doing those stamp with XTool F1 ?
Maybe, I do not have one to test.
StazOn is the ink you want to use.
Thanks
***Technical issues getting my comment to show up. Sorry if it posts more than once while I tried to edit it..
Completely awesome you were able to make your own stamp.
I'd like to make a couple suggestions, if you don't mind. I know you've tested, but having used stamps and inks, etc. I thought "maybe" I can help. The ink pad you listed is water based. So it's going to absorb and bleed. You need a pigment ink. It sits on top of what you stamp, instead of being absorbed into it. It becomes permanent once dried. That being said, there is a drying time. If you don't mind that, but it should prevent the bleeding. That also being said, I have not stamped on wood, so I could be completely wrong, but I thought it worth mentioning so you can test it out yourself.
Also, there is a specific material for making your own stamps. People buy it for carving their own red rubber stamps, rather than engraving, and I wonder if you could use it on the laser cutter. I don't know if I can post a link, but I'll try. It's made by Speedball called a Speedy carve block, and they sell it at Michael's along with other craft stores. www.michaels.com/speedball-speedy-carve-block/M10022224.html?dwvar_M10022224_size=4%22%20x%206%22&dwvar_M10022224_color=None
One more thing... You can't always tell it, but there is a bit of cushioning between the rubber and wood block on a stamp, if the actual rubber is too stiff. So maybe a good thin foam tape, will also help with the stamping if you're stamping onto something that is also hard. Some of those tapes are permanent and a good option. Yes, some rubbers do have oils, because they will dry rot faster if not. I hope I didn't offend you in any way by offering up advice. You know a lot more than I do about this stuff. I only know about stamps and ink, but I have considered making my own stamps once upon a time, so I did research it a long long time ago, and don't remember everything. Back then laser cutters weren't available to a home hobbyist, So this is so completely awesome.
So sorry for writing you a book here, but I am really hoping you can perfect this technique, because I think a lot of people will be asking you to make them.
Sounds like good advice. I will try next build. I don’t claim to be any more knowledgeable than everyone else. I just share what I do know, learning everyday and no offense taken. Thanks
What settings do use on the Speedy rubber to etch?