I have learned over the years of using both mineral spirits and acetone that as soon as you pour a little out onto your rag or towel put the cap back on immediately, parts of it will evaporate and will be a lot less effective in the given use. I always use gloves with this stuff and recommend anyone do the same. thanks for the great video i learned a lot
That's the reason I switched to using acrylic paints on glass and ceramic tile. I actually use the Plaid Apple Barrel and Folkart craft paints from walmart instead of the tempura paints. I feel they have more pigment and work better. I use an airbrush, but you don't have to. I've used a foam brush as well. Works just as good, maybe better since you get a thicker coat. Also... don't know if you know, but if you use white paint - acrylic or rattlecan, it doesn't matter, you will get a black mark on the glass or tile just like using the Cermark... for a LOT cheaper!
Lacquer thinner works great for that paint. I put a piece of paper towel over the paint and pour some thinner on it, let it sit for 30 seconds and it will wipe right off. Black paint gives a frosted look while white paint actually leaves a dark engraving.
Great video! Just tried an old painters/cabinetmakers trick. Put a thin coating of Johnson paste wax (original formula) on the glass, let it haze over and paint it. Mineral spirits takes it right off. Great frosting too.
I've been using Pine-Sol to remove the spray paint. Soaking the glass in 100% Pine-Sol for a little while, then the paint comes off easily with brushing or a Scotch-Brite pad (my preferred method).
I have been liking some results from using cold galvanize compound on glass when going for the frosted look. I clean with acetone and an off brand magic eraser from Amazon like 15 dollars for 50 of them. I also user a copper wire brush to clean out the glass shards left behind from the etching. If you aren't careful after lasering the glass it will stick your hands with shards while washing them. The wire brush takes those shards out of the lasered portions of the glass on cups that is. I don't mess with glass panes other then cleaning.
Great video and info, I have not wanted to use the spray paints for glasses that will be drank out of, so I went with the water base tempru paint, and an airbrush, I had several laying around, harbor frieght has a real cheap one that works well with the tempru paint, so you don't have to invest a lot,, the trick is to thin it with water so that it will spray, and it does a real good job as etching,, not so much for marking, the cermark looks really good, but that stuff is higher than gold. thanks for the video.
I have used tempura paint (black) from the dollar tree it’s basically kids finger paint so it’s really easy to get off! I used 85%power and it done great!
Try candle black. Hold a lit candle under the spot u want to prep and the lit candle will leave a sootie substance on the glass. Laser your design in that area and then wipe clean.
If the rusto isn't too well cured then acetone will take it off. Laquer thinner should also. If you don't want to deal with it getting in the frosted/etched glass then try "sanding" it off with steel wool or possibly a magic eraser (steel wool will work for sure and not scratch the glass). All that said, either use cheaper paint or wax the glass before painting it and it will wipe off much easier. As far as shellac, it's totally sandable, "sanding sealer" is just thinned shellac. Some shellac might be waxy and clog the sandpaper but it will still sand. For that matter, if it's shellac you can wipe it off/dissolve it with alcohol, shellac is often bought as a solid and "cut" with alcohol to make it a liquid, and adding alcohol to something finished with it takes it right off. If it wasn't sanding, I'm not sure what you had, most common clear finishes sand well, urethane, polyurethane, lacquer, shellac... all should sand well.
thanks for the idea. My wife and I can all the time...tomatoes (of course) chicken (our favorite) well the list goes on. I have the 10 watt D1 and the 20W version is on order. You definitely have a southern accent....they (the accents) vary according to the region you come from. My wife is from Kentucky and after close to 40 years in Minnesota it is still there...different from yours...I think she works on keeping it as people really respond to her. I am also an ardent woodworker. Thanks for a fine video. I subscribed and will become a regular follower.
Nice job! Good to learn about the ceremark. I know units don't matter but you might consider using mm/minute to get a finer control of your speed. It would mean redoing your notepad though....
i've try engrave on glass using tempera paint for about 6hours. and result pretty good. but got problem when try to clean tempera paint. its not cleaned 100% on some point. how i can totally clean the tempera paint and make glass not look dirty cz of tempera paint?
Depending on the power settings, you can get pigment in the resulting image. It is a balance on the power settings. I use cermark typically because I get more consistent results.
I bet acetone would have worked for the black paint. Glossy paint is harder to remove than the matte finish. I make epoxy tumblers. Citristrip will even dissolve cured epoxy too. :)
I am at the point where I'm experimenting with my new laser unfortunately I went cheap with a phecda machine, I'll upgrade later, I tried etching into a few candles like the Yankee Candles. When I had the power high enough to mark it I wound up with long cracks in the glass I don't know if it's because I only have a 10w machine? But I'm still playing around hopefully I will figure it out.
Hi Sir, great video. I'm new to Laser Engraving. I have a question, couldn't you use dark painters tape on the Jar to get a Frosted Effect on the Glass or will that not work? Have you tried that? Of course that won't impregnate the glass with dark pigment like the paint will, but it seems like it would be a quick and dirty way to get it done?
Appreciate the videos. Great content. I had a question about Power output. I heard that running the laser at 100% will limit the life of the laser. The suggestion was to keep the power at or below 75% when possible and adjust the speed to compensate for less power. Do you have any suggestions/opinions on that?
XTool says that the laser is rated for 10,000 hours of use. That is 416 days of consistent use. Although I am sure it depends on the power output and several other variables, I just do what is best to turn out the jobs. My XTool payed for itself in the first 3 months, If it fails I will just replace it. I run 100% and compensate with speed until i have to lower the speed. Just to get the most $$ per hour. I guess it just depends on your personal goals. Long life or high profit yield.
The 100% power issue was more about CO2 lasers, I believe. I've read that the diode lasers are OK to run flat out, and that some (maybe all now?) are set so that 100% is actually less than what the diode laser could do, but is limited slightly by the module to ensure maximum life.
Another good one, "Mr. Clackster." :-) I'm just wondering if you've made a video in which you use the D1 to engrave your logo (or other words, like "Congratulations" or "A special gift from ...:) onto a wood project. I'll try to hunt through your video library, but just wondering what you could point me to. Currently, I'm using vinyl decals that a friend (certified trainer on the Silhouette cutter machines) make for me. I surely would like to transition to some kind of laser etched/engraved wording, though. ~~ Larry from Tupelo
@@TheClackShack for the tempura paint, I dilute it with water pretty significantly , put the mixture into a bowl with a wide opening, and dip the glass surface I need coated directly down into that bowl as the whole cup doesn't need to be covered. And then let them dry. I don't get brush strokes that way and the finish is really smooth and leaves the engraving looking good. It washes off with water which is nice.
@@TheClackShack Thanks. I have subscribed to your channel. I was just being lazy as I am overwhelmed with the amount of info available on the lasers. My D1 should be here next week and I really liked the camera option of one of xtools '"classroom" models and was disappointed that the D1 does not have a camera.
I do I get to consistently burn the object in the same direction Time After Time I put cups in burned it the way I have it designed put another cup in and it's inverted and have not changed any settings so what am I doing wrong or what is light burn doing wrong question
I loved when you said "videotape it" 😉Old school, like me! Great video too, thanks!
Glad you liked it!
I have learned over the years of using both mineral spirits and acetone that as soon as you pour a little out onto your rag or towel put the cap back on immediately, parts of it will evaporate and will be a lot less effective in the given use. I always use gloves with this stuff and recommend anyone do the same. thanks for the great video i learned a lot
Thanks
That's the reason I switched to using acrylic paints on glass and ceramic tile. I actually use the Plaid Apple Barrel and Folkart craft paints from walmart instead of the tempura paints. I feel they have more pigment and work better. I use an airbrush, but you don't have to. I've used a foam brush as well. Works just as good, maybe better since you get a thicker coat. Also... don't know if you know, but if you use white paint - acrylic or rattlecan, it doesn't matter, you will get a black mark on the glass or tile just like using the Cermark... for a LOT cheaper!
Similar results, it all comes down to preference.
White lighting shines under the moon!! 🤯
sometimes..
Lacquer thinner works great for that paint. I put a piece of paper towel over the paint and pour some thinner on it, let it sit for 30 seconds and it will wipe right off. Black paint gives a frosted look while white paint actually leaves a dark engraving.
Yea, didn’t have any this day. Got it now
Great video! Just tried an old painters/cabinetmakers trick. Put a thin coating of Johnson paste wax (original formula) on the glass, let it haze over and paint it. Mineral spirits takes it right off. Great frosting too.
Cool
Be proud of your Alabama accent and never change it. Roll Tide!
Not sure that I could change it... lol.. Thanks
WDE?
I've been using Pine-Sol to remove the spray paint. Soaking the glass in 100% Pine-Sol for a little while, then the paint comes off easily with brushing or a Scotch-Brite pad (my preferred method).
Cool
LOVE THAT TABLE
Thanks
I have been liking some results from using cold galvanize compound on glass when going for the frosted look. I clean with acetone and an off brand magic eraser from Amazon like 15 dollars for 50 of them. I also user a copper wire brush to clean out the glass shards left behind from the etching. If you aren't careful after lasering the glass it will stick your hands with shards while washing them. The wire brush takes those shards out of the lasered portions of the glass on cups that is. I don't mess with glass panes other then cleaning.
cool, thanks
Great video and info, I have not wanted to use the spray paints for glasses that will be drank out of, so I went with the water base tempru paint, and an airbrush, I had several laying around, harbor frieght has a real cheap one that works well with the tempru paint, so you don't have to invest a lot,, the trick is to thin it with water so that it will spray, and it does a real good job as etching,, not so much for marking, the cermark looks really good, but that stuff is higher than gold. thanks for the video.
They do like it,,,Thanks
I have used tempura paint (black) from the dollar tree it’s basically kids finger paint so it’s really easy to get off! I used 85%power and it done great!
I cant get sonsistent results with it. My application of it isnt good.
Someone may have already said this but try acetone to remove that paint from the jars. Love your videos. Fellow Alabamian.
I got some real paint remover and it works fine. Thanks
Try candle black. Hold a lit candle under the spot u want to prep and the lit candle will leave a sootie substance on the glass. Laser your design in that area and then wipe clean.
May try that
If the rusto isn't too well cured then acetone will take it off. Laquer thinner should also. If you don't want to deal with it getting in the frosted/etched glass then try "sanding" it off with steel wool or possibly a magic eraser (steel wool will work for sure and not scratch the glass).
All that said, either use cheaper paint or wax the glass before painting it and it will wipe off much easier.
As far as shellac, it's totally sandable, "sanding sealer" is just thinned shellac. Some shellac might be waxy and clog the sandpaper but it will still sand. For that matter, if it's shellac you can wipe it off/dissolve it with alcohol, shellac is often bought as a solid and "cut" with alcohol to make it a liquid, and adding alcohol to something finished with it takes it right off.
If it wasn't sanding, I'm not sure what you had, most common clear finishes sand well, urethane, polyurethane, lacquer, shellac... all should sand well.
Yea, I have many more supplies now. Thanks
Acetone is the cleaner what you need. Flat paint is easier to get off since it has less binders in it.
Yea, just didn’t have any. Thanks
thanks for the idea. My wife and I can all the time...tomatoes (of course) chicken (our favorite) well the list goes on. I have the 10 watt D1 and the 20W version is on order. You definitely have a southern accent....they (the accents) vary according to the region you come from. My wife is from Kentucky and after close to 40 years in Minnesota it is still there...different from yours...I think she works on keeping it as people really respond to her. I am also an ardent woodworker. Thanks for a fine video. I subscribed and will become a regular follower.
Cool, That would make for some cool labeling on the jars. Thanks..
Nice job! Good to learn about the ceremark.
I know units don't matter but you might consider using mm/minute to get a finer control of your speed. It would mean redoing your notepad though....
I have had good luck with mm/s, thanks.
Mason jars is a very pinteresting thing to do. It's no longer in the south. I'm in Montana and my wife has our drink cupboard filled with them
Good to hear
Where did you find the power settings cheatsheet??
I power test, XTool has some material settings you can use.
I use rustoleum cold galvanizing spay on glass. One light coat with 100 power and 12mm speed. Comes off with denatured alcohol and it wipes right off.
Cool. I haven’t tried it yet
wonder if norton white tile method would work
Not sure. I use marking spray
So the dull black is using regular black spray, and the “black black” using laser mark spray?
Yep
Yea
Thanks for sharing the research! Good video!
Thanks for watching!
They say you can use the chalkboard paint as well? You could try it…. But all in all great job 👍🏼 I need to come down and learn from you.
Yea, there are several options. I have tried several. Thanks.
In Yuma we call it an accident not an accent. My brother is in Mobile AL. So he speaks funny also… no harm ment.
Lol
How small of a surface can you etch and can this machine do multiple pieces at once, depending on the size?
very small yes.
I used spray chalkboard paint and I was able to use warm water and #0000 steel wool to remove it.
I am gonna find a better way, thanks.
Temporary chalk spray paint is removable with just water. I imagine any color will work with giving that frosted look.
thanks
Did you mention the laser settings?
Should have, its been over a year ago
Your wife probably wondered what in the world you put all over her good Mason jars. LOL
Thanks for testing this for us.
These are my jars...lol
i've try engrave on glass using tempera paint for about 6hours. and result pretty good. but got problem when try to clean tempera paint. its not cleaned 100% on some point. how i can totally clean the tempera paint and make glass not look dirty cz of tempera paint?
Depending on the power settings, you can get pigment in the resulting image. It is a balance on the power settings. I use cermark typically because I get more consistent results.
Your flesh-colored watch is amazing.
Can you tell I wear one??
You could also try dry moly lube. Oil based. Paint thinner takes it right off.
I am tempted to try it. Just can't find it locally.
I’ve purchased it on Amazon
I bet acetone would have worked for the black paint. Glossy paint is harder to remove than the matte finish. I make epoxy tumblers. Citristrip will even dissolve cured epoxy too. :)
Yea, I usually have good luck with mineral spirits. Looks like I need some stronger stuff.
Acetone could possibly scratch the surface of some glass make it have a cloudy appearance
Acetone could possibly scratch the surface of some glass make it have a cloudy appearance
A razor blade and acetone worked on a wine bottle for me.
Yea, I got some real paint remover now. Works great.
I am at the point where I'm experimenting with my new laser unfortunately I went cheap with a phecda machine, I'll upgrade later, I tried etching into a few candles like the Yankee Candles. When I had the power high enough to mark it I wound up with long cracks in the glass I don't know if it's because I only have a 10w machine? But I'm still playing around hopefully I will figure it out.
Try pulling the focus back about a mm or so.
Great video. Thank you.
You are welcome!
you should turn your cheat sheet into a library in lightburn so its easy to just select and go
I could, I have several colors set for different materials but I am a sheet kinda guy I guess. I just use notepad in windows.
I may have missed if you commented or not but I would not use an etched, engraved, Mason Jar for actual canning. chance of imploding in the process.
I agree, you can drink from them. That is what it is for
I love your style and explanations. When you said “de-red neck ” I nearly spit my coffee out 🤪😂🤣 #GoDawgs
Thanks, I appreciate it.
Have you ever did Christmas tree glass ball engrave with a d 1 pro 10 watt if so would you share the settings.
Thank you
Ed
I haven't done one of those yet. sorry
@@TheClackShack Thank you
Ed
Get you a Dewalt stealth sonic shop vac! You can barely hear that thing running.
DeWalt... You don't say. I like DeWalt, if you couldn't tell..
Hey try cold galvanized spray, can get at Walmart or Lowes. Water takes off and every bit as good as cermark on glass or metal, or anything.
I have looked at trying it. It’s not in any of my local stores. Gonna have to go to the big city to find it.
I've heard that zinc spray puts off some very TOXIC fumes.
Hi Sir, great video. I'm new to Laser Engraving. I have a question, couldn't you use dark painters tape on the Jar to get a Frosted Effect on the Glass or will that not work? Have you tried that? Of course that won't impregnate the glass with dark pigment like the paint will, but it seems like it would be a quick and dirty way to get it done?
Painters tape may work but not as good as paint. The resistance of the tape would cause inconsistent burns.
Hmmmm..... Did the paint can(s) give any sort of hint of what to use to remove the paint?
I bought some acetone based remover and it works fine
Great vid but acetone or denatured alcohol usually strips spray paint right off
Yes, at the time. I didn't have any. That has been addressed.
Appreciate the videos. Great content. I had a question about Power output. I heard that running the laser at 100% will limit the life of the laser. The suggestion was to keep the power at or below 75% when possible and adjust the speed to compensate for less power. Do you have any suggestions/opinions on that?
XTool says that the laser is rated for 10,000 hours of use. That is 416 days of consistent use. Although I am sure it depends on the power output and several other variables, I just do what is best to turn out the jobs. My XTool payed for itself in the first 3 months, If it fails I will just replace it. I run 100% and compensate with speed until i have to lower the speed. Just to get the most $$ per hour. I guess it just depends on your personal goals. Long life or high profit yield.
The 100% power issue was more about CO2 lasers, I believe. I've read that the diode lasers are OK to run flat out, and that some (maybe all now?) are set so that 100% is actually less than what the diode laser could do, but is limited slightly by the module to ensure maximum life.
And if you get the right alcoholic drink you can mix it with the sweet tea in the jar
Yea
Great video, are you using a 5w or 10 w model?
10’watt in this video. Thanks
What camera are you using on your laser?
I run 2 fisheye cameras and a flat lens currently. Camera depends on the enclosure. I have several "camera" videos.
Another good one, "Mr. Clackster." :-)
I'm just wondering if you've made a video in which you use the D1 to engrave your logo (or other words, like "Congratulations" or "A special gift from ...:) onto a wood project. I'll try to hunt through your video library, but just wondering what you could point me to. Currently, I'm using vinyl decals that a friend (certified trainer on the Silhouette cutter machines) make for me. I surely would like to transition to some kind of laser etched/engraved wording, though.
~~ Larry from Tupelo
Look at the cedar countertop. $1000 build engraved. Also, check out Facebook page at more of y stuff.
ua-cam.com/users/shortsx9XFACqzFpA?feature=share
Hi Larry from Tupelo I’m from nw bama! Right down 20 across state line!
Have you tried glass engraving on your 20w D1 pro?
Haven’t yet. I have been using the 10 watt for glass.
can I ask what laser safety glassed you use ?
JTech photonics
👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Thanks
I use acetone to remove paint
I have some real paint remover now...
how many coats of etching spray?
One solid coat
Would Brilliance Black laser get same result?
@@Pa_Dave similar
@@TheClackShack how about with a xtool M1 or P2?
@@Pa_Dave that’s two totally different machines
Xylene is nasty but have used it and it's very effective on paint... much quicker than citrus
Thanks
Lacquer thinner would clean most aerosol paint
Yea, I had to get some..
Shine, Hootch or Moon Shine
Might be…
where in Alabama you live?
Chilton County
OK,, I was just wondering. I am seriously thinking of starting up a side hustle down in Monroe County@@TheClackShack
Have you tried tempura paint?
I have but only brushed on, I found it made the lines in the paint affect the burn. I haven't tried it in a spray yet.
@@TheClackShack for the tempura paint, I dilute it with water pretty significantly , put the mixture into a bowl with a wide opening, and dip the glass surface I need coated directly down into that bowl as the whole cup doesn't need to be covered. And then let them dry. I don't get brush strokes that way and the finish is really smooth and leaves the engraving looking good. It washes off with water which is nice.
Great video! What were your settings for CerMark coating on the Glass? I set up 100/11 , waiting for a result while I am texting
70mm/s at 100% with the 10 watt….
@@TheClackShack I cracked the wineglass at my settings , oh boy )))) thx
@@amerienglish9635 , may need to beach it down. Some glass doesn’t like it when you put micro cracks in it.
What part of Alabama I’m from Alabama as well
Center of the state
ACETONE is what I use
Thanks
Info on the camera?
I have 3 different cameras, if you search my content you will find videos on each device and its pros and cons.
@@TheClackShack Thanks. I have subscribed to your channel. I was just being lazy as I am overwhelmed with the amount of info available on the lasers. My D1 should be here next week and I really liked the camera option of one of xtools '"classroom" models and was disappointed that the D1 does not have a camera.
What is that? How can i do it?
Not sure I am understanding the question..
@@TheClackShack i was
Mesmerized! At the laser. Do you have Suggestions for someone wanting to set up their own shop?
@@angie_hutchings ,it takes time and work. Find what you enjoy and run with it.
You chalk paint, comes right off with water.
Yea, Chalk paint for me is very inconsistent
@@TheClackShack I have had very good results I don't have the higher powered machines you do, my laser is 12W
I do I get to consistently burn the object in the same direction Time After Time I put cups in burned it the way I have it designed put another cup in and it's inverted and have not changed any settings so what am I doing wrong or what is light burn doing wrong question
Make sure you are placing the rotary the right direction. If you rotate it 180 degrees, it will burn in reverse.
Just call it CerStuff
Yea.. cerasomething…
Use paint stripper
Didn’t have any at the time. Had to invest. I usually put it on and not take it off.
😂 enjoy your videos, but definitely an accent.
Yea, a little