You always amaze me at the level of realism you artfully craft onto your model builds. They look absolutely amazing. The STUKA was an absolute legend in WWII. Slow but deadly in the hands of a skilled Pilot.
I have really enjoyed watching your videos. I am gradually getting back into the hobby after quite a long hiatus and I find your builds very inspiring.
Jolly good build! Earliest Ju-87D-1's did have RLM 02 interiors. Most B-2's, and ALL D series & later had wood props, pressure-covered with linen, painted, and a nailed-on narrow, brass leading edge strip, similar to British wood props. So, no "silver" chipping! Also, German a/c paints were much less prone to chipping, flaking & even fading than Allied--esp. U.S.--, Italian & Japanese paints. After D-1, all subsequent models did away with advesive-atttached, black rubber walk strips, instead using rivet-attached, metal walk strips, painted in a/c's camouflage colors.
I will never get to your level of expertise. I can barely get a stock kit to look half way decent. But I so enjoy watching and listening to you explain what you're doing. I'm truly learning a lot from you. Your weathering is incredible. I'm terrified to try it but I'm going to give it a go. I'm a 68 year old who just went through heart surgery so I have plenty of time to try your techniques. Thank you for your videos!
Really nice build with some terrific weathering. As a relatively new modeller, I would love to see, perhaps on a separate video, how you assemble and bend the photoetch parts as these often terrify me. Keep up the good work 👏👏👍
Damn, that's some meticulous work. When I built model planes as a kid I just quickly glued everything together and slapped on Luftwaffe stickers. Also on the Spitfires, because I thought the RAF stickers were lame!
Nice work I’m starting to come around to using time saving products like the readymade washes and antenna wire nice F4B build too I’ll stand by for the next one
I really enjoy watching you work. The way you explain what you are doing is both entertaining and educational. I also like how you build both aircraft and armor.
I've recently started using VMS Gloss HD, it's very thick, even from the bottle and if you aren't careful, can leave an orange peel like appearance. I thin mine 50% with Vallejo Acrylic Thinners and apply light coats. I have spoilt a few models in the past using this product.
Agreed, It's very easy in infill detail laying it thick enough to get the gloss finish. Then your screwed! 50% sounds good. But Mr Hobby Gx100 works so well! 😉 Thanks for watching. Andy
I love your videos and I appreciate your skills. I built my last plastic model about 40 years ago and needless to say a lot has changed! Perhaps you could give those of us coming back to the hobby a peak into how you organize your workspace, recommendations for paints, glues and tools and other tips and tricks to set up a proper space to build models. Thank you!
I'm right there with you. My last model was a 1/32 scale matchbox bf109e. I even had an airbrush! I think that was in my early twenties. I always painted individual parts on the sprue and then glued them together which is obviously not the way to do it. Lol. I did the same for the wings and fuselage parts. Never occurred to me to put stuff together and then paint it. 🙄
I really enjoyed that. May I suggest that exhaust is most unlikely to be be swept under the wings. The airflow is directed upwards well before the wings due to the pattern of the distribution of lift. Overall, I learnt a great deal - as usual. Thank you.
Thx for your video and quality effort! Rather than make subjective comments regarding amounts and interpretations of wear--to each his own--I thought I'd leave an objective note. 'All' B2 and later Stukas used wooden props. This is easily distinguished in photos because the early (B1) metal Jumo props have more narrow chords. The wooden props were manufactured with a glued-on linen covering, and then a very narrow, thin brass protective strip was nailed/screwed to each blade's leading edge. The last step was to spray paint each wooden blade 71 dark green, and then the blade logo/part number in red. Consequently, it would be incorrect to depict finish wear or nicks to these wooden prop blades with 'silver'-colored paint, implying metal blades.
Im not building the planes but really enjoyed watching your Stuka build. I like the final result a lot, especially the weathering which is very similar to the one we use on 1/35 tanks! :)
nice job ,i cant find the blueprints but the glass bit on top of the canopy rails under the main canopy to give space for the antenna so yes you had to remove it or to make it more scale glue another very fine thin clear part under ther.... ,again if you want to be 100% scale the canopy of this model is not scale anyway ,it needs to be lower and thinner so....its fine for that old kit anyway !
I bit late here, but I know how you said the color didn't match for the printed details and the cockpit. It seemed that your technique of matching the color then rubbing the details back through added a color variation similar to what we do on the outside of the fuselage. The effect seemed quite nice on camera.
Your videos are very well-made but I would really appreciate it if you had more commentary on what you were doing how you were doing it and why? Narration is always helpful in these kind of videos I find
I’ve never built a model,but really enjoy your videos.I find the skill and workmanship you put into each build amazing.Keep up the great work,look forward to your next video.👍🏻
Personally I would have highlighted the other panels to make the photo etch lighter color look intentional, then blended it with a wash. The way you did it looks good in the end, I just don't like how non uniform the color looks on the photo etch. Looks like a nice cockpit the way you did it of course. Thanks for sharing.
Excellent work! Beautiful plane. Maybe you can show the full process about working the canopy, it will help me. I am working on the same one now. I have no experience when it comes down to weathering, but this video will help to learn about it. My model is from Monogram, small problems here and there, but overall good quality kit. A old one.
Nice results. May I suggest a little sun bleaching effect on upper surfaces for something that has clearly been in action for a while? That might be a bit tricky at this stage of completion though.
I really love your channel. You have an amazing talent for models. I have one corny request: please please do a video on how to properly mix paints. If I get it right (the paint flow) it’s pure luck. My paint seems to splatter rather than go on smooth. Id greatly appreciate if you would do that. Thx
Hi. Thank you. I can look at doing a video like that. I would say that I predominantly use Tamiya, Mr Hobby and AK Real Color paints for airbrushing. As a rule of thumb I thin all of these paints 2:1. 2 parts paint to 1 parts thinner. And i usually use the manufacturers recommended thinner. Hope this helps a little, but I will look at doing a short paint mix tutorial. Cheers. Andy
You always amaze me at the level of realism you artfully craft onto your model builds. They look absolutely amazing. The STUKA was an absolute legend in WWII. Slow but deadly in the hands of a skilled Pilot.
Something about your voice,the music and your methods make your videos perfect for chilling me out before bed,great videos.
I have really enjoyed watching your videos.
I am gradually getting back into the hobby after quite a long hiatus and I find your builds very inspiring.
It's probably the absolutely best JU-87 I've ever seen !! Fantastic!!
Jolly good build!
Earliest Ju-87D-1's did have RLM 02 interiors.
Most B-2's, and ALL D series & later had wood props, pressure-covered with linen, painted, and a nailed-on narrow, brass leading edge strip, similar to British wood props. So, no "silver" chipping!
Also, German a/c paints were much less prone to chipping, flaking & even fading than Allied--esp. U.S.--, Italian & Japanese paints.
After D-1, all subsequent models did away with advesive-atttached, black rubber walk strips, instead using rivet-attached, metal walk strips, painted in a/c's camouflage colors.
I will never get to your level of expertise. I can barely get a stock kit to look half way decent. But I so enjoy watching and listening to you explain what you're doing. I'm truly learning a lot from you. Your weathering is incredible. I'm terrified to try it but I'm going to give it a go. I'm a 68 year old who just went through heart surgery so I have plenty of time to try your techniques. Thank you for your videos!
Hi Stephen, great to hear the videos are helping. Good luck with your builds. Stay well. Andy
very nice job of weathering without going overboard. The subtle look is so much more realistic and the light panel liner really looks great
Just bought this kit … I’m not anywhere advanced as you but now looking forward to this kit ! Thank you
Your videos are quite helpful and entertaining. However, your skill level is off the charts. Many thanks.
Beautiful build, Sir!!!! Top Notch!!! 👍👍
I have this in the stash and you have given me the incentive to put it high on the 'to build' list. Thank you for a great video.
Really nice build with some terrific weathering. As a relatively new modeller, I would love to see, perhaps on a separate video, how you assemble and bend the photoetch parts as these often terrify me. Keep up the good work 👏👏👍
Damn, that's some meticulous work. When I built model planes as a kid I just quickly glued everything together and slapped on Luftwaffe stickers. Also on the Spitfires, because I thought the RAF stickers were lame!
Amazing..the Stuka is about to SCREAM…
Great build, I watched from start to finish.
Outstanding Sir, hats off.
Nice work I’m starting to come around to using time saving products like the readymade washes and antenna wire nice F4B build too I’ll stand by for the next one
Great work!! For years I used actual graphite/ charcoal and gray soot then sealed it with clear-it was so much more controllable than the liquids
Found quite a few photos on Google that show undercarriage staining by exhaust to range from moderate to insane. Nice touch, great build!
Amazing! Have just discovered the channel. Can't believe the skill and patience.
One word......Beautiful!!
I really enjoy watching you work. The way you explain what you are doing is both entertaining and educational. I also like how you build both aircraft and armor.
Finally someone who actually knows how to paint.
Fantastico, Bellissimo!!!! Complimenti. Davvero bello
I just watched your F4 build and then this one, back to back - your attention to detail is phenomenal and you made a subscriber out of me!
Hi buddy fantastic build and paint job glad you tell us what products you are using.just love the stuka. thank you for sharing mate.
cheers Gary 🇬🇧
I lije this airplane.. Look only at the wings... Nice build
Beautiful job my Friend -Detroit
Beautiful build!
Hello Scale Model Shed nice looking Stuka known as the screaming bomber. You chose a Luftwaffe plane aircraft. Nice build on this model plane. 🇩🇪🇩🇪⭐🌟🌠
Awesome build my friend keep up the good work
Hats of and thank you for posting this.
Lovely build and looks terrific in desert scheme and some appropriate weathering.
Nice build, Andy 👌
I've recently started using VMS Gloss HD, it's very thick, even from the bottle and if you aren't careful, can leave an orange peel like appearance. I thin mine 50% with Vallejo Acrylic Thinners and apply light coats. I have spoilt a few models in the past using this product.
Agreed, It's very easy in infill detail laying it thick enough to get the gloss finish. Then your screwed! 50% sounds good. But Mr Hobby Gx100 works so well! 😉 Thanks for watching. Andy
@@ScaleModelShed very good 🇨🇱🤘
Stunning
I love your videos and I appreciate your skills. I built my last plastic model about 40 years ago and needless to say a lot has changed! Perhaps you could give those of us coming back to the hobby a peak into how you organize your workspace, recommendations for paints, glues and tools and other tips and tricks to set up a proper space to build models. Thank you!
I'm right there with you. My last model was a 1/32 scale matchbox bf109e. I even had an airbrush! I think that was in my early twenties. I always painted individual parts on the sprue and then glued them together which is obviously not the way to do it. Lol. I did the same for the wings and fuselage parts. Never occurred to me to put stuff together and then paint it. 🙄
Hi Gregory. I will certainly look at doing a short video along those lines in the near future. Many thanks. Andy
Looks great nice camouflage scheme got the airfix 1/48 to build
Outstanding Stuka. Great work I really like Your miniature
Another beautiful build, thankyou
Beautiful detail. Nice job.
You are a freaking artist.
Gah..i wouldn't even know where to begin doing this kinda detail ,weathering an effects. Man youe goood
Excellent inspiring work. Back into modelling after 20 yrs and your information is very useful. Thanks
Love that weathering sir! Subbed
Great job... This makes me smile😊
You are an amazing talent Sir !
I really enjoyed that. May I suggest that exhaust is most unlikely to be be swept under the wings. The airflow is directed upwards well before the wings due to the pattern of the distribution of lift. Overall, I learnt a great deal - as usual. Thank you.
A brilliant piece of work. I'm just about to start the very same kit.
Perfect work 🔥🔥🔥
Why don't these kits include pilot and crew figures? That would be a great finishing touch. Beautiful build, love the paintjob.
Great job! She is a beautiful aircraft!
Bonjour très belle réalisation👍👍👍👍
Thx for your video and quality effort!
Rather than make subjective comments regarding amounts and interpretations of wear--to each his own--I thought I'd leave an objective note. 'All' B2 and later Stukas used wooden props. This is easily distinguished in photos because the early (B1) metal Jumo props have more narrow chords. The wooden props were manufactured with a glued-on linen covering, and then a very narrow, thin brass protective strip was nailed/screwed to each blade's leading edge. The last step was to spray paint each wooden blade 71 dark green, and then the blade logo/part number in red. Consequently, it would be incorrect to depict finish wear or nicks to these wooden prop blades with 'silver'-colored paint, implying metal blades.
Really nice job, thanks for sharing 👍👍👍👍👍
Amazing build. Turned out great. Really like the techniques that you used to detail the Stuka and the explanation you gave while applying the details.
Another amazing build and paint just like the way you finish off with all the detailing paint 👏👏👏
Work of Art. Brilliant work.
Awesome, One of the best scale models of a Stuka I've seen....really like the camo scheme :)
Thanks Matt.
awesome build
Brilliantly done 👍
Awesome job!
That sir was a excellent build, you should be very proud of your effort, best regards from Australia.
Great building! Keep up the good work!
Nice work, I liked it! Congratulations!
Great looking Stuka, I'm keen to try some of the VMS products, happy modelling mate 😉👍
Incredible build. Fantastic work.
Im not building the planes but really enjoyed watching your Stuka build. I like the final result a lot, especially the weathering which is very similar to the one we use on 1/35 tanks! :)
wow! looks great
Fantastic video! Thank you.
my god this is just amazing work !!!!! wish i had this talent 😮💨😮💨😮💨😮💨😮💨
Very good work 👍congratulations
Beautiful
Nice video. Both video and built quality has improved. Keep us entertained and inspired😁
I love how he painted colors to make the Stuka looks old haha
nice job ,i cant find the blueprints but the glass bit on top of the canopy rails under the main canopy to give space for the antenna so yes you had to remove it or to make it more scale glue another very fine thin clear part under ther.... ,again if you want to be 100% scale the canopy of this model is not scale anyway ,it needs to be lower and thinner so....its fine for that old kit anyway !
Hi, Thought so! Yes, the canopy doesn't seem quite right, but as you say, it's OK for an older kit. Thanks for your comment. Andy
What do I think? Flaming marvelous is what I think sir. Great work.
Stunning quality work
I bit late here, but I know how you said the color didn't match for the printed details and the cockpit. It seemed that your technique of matching the color then rubbing the details back through added a color variation similar to what we do on the outside of the fuselage. The effect seemed quite nice on camera.
Stunning, thank you.
Nice job!!!
Your videos are very well-made but I would really appreciate it if you had more commentary on what you were doing how you were doing it and why? Narration is always helpful in these kind of videos I find
so nice !!! Great work sir... :-)
I love Ww2 planes they are cool
Beautiful plane !
Шикарная работа, отлично!
I’ve never built a model,but really enjoy your videos.I find the skill and workmanship you put into each build amazing.Keep up the great work,look forward to your next video.👍🏻
Very detailed!
thats madness skill wow
I'm waiting for the corsair to appear in your channel... ;) Nice work, both making the model and editing the video. Keep it up!! Greetings from Spain
Personally I would have highlighted the other panels to make the photo etch lighter color look intentional, then blended it with a wash. The way you did it looks good in the end, I just don't like how non uniform the color looks on the photo etch. Looks like a nice cockpit the way you did it of course. Thanks for sharing.
Excellent work! Beautiful plane. Maybe you can show the full process about working the canopy, it will help me. I am working on the same one now. I have no experience when it comes down to weathering, but this video will help to learn about it. My model is from Monogram, small problems here and there, but overall good quality kit. A old one.
Good effort,the antiskid stripes were only used in the Eastern Front NOT in the NorthAfrican campaign.
Perfect patina.
Amazing!
Nice results. May I suggest a little sun bleaching effect on upper surfaces for something that has clearly been in action for a while? That might be a bit tricky at this stage of completion though.
Great job
Really loving your channel, keep up the great work 👌🏻👏🏻
Thank you so much!
Muy buen trabajo, enhorabuena
I really love your channel. You have an amazing talent for models.
I have one corny request: please please do a video on how to properly mix paints. If I get it right (the paint flow) it’s pure luck.
My paint seems to splatter rather than go on smooth.
Id greatly appreciate if you would do that.
Thx
Hi. Thank you. I can look at doing a video like that. I would say that I predominantly use Tamiya, Mr Hobby and AK Real Color paints for airbrushing. As a rule of thumb I thin all of these paints 2:1. 2 parts paint to 1 parts thinner. And i usually use the manufacturers recommended thinner. Hope this helps a little, but I will look at doing a short paint mix tutorial. Cheers. Andy