Junkers Ju-87 Stuka. 1/48 Hasegawa, Hobby 2000. Model aircraft full build.
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- Опубліковано 28 вер 2024
- scalemodelshed...
Hi UA-cam,
In this video I am building the Hobby 2000 release of a Hasegawa 1/48 Junker Ju-87 Stuka in North Africa paint scheme.
In the video I use a mix of Mr Hobby, Tamiya, AK Interactive, Abteilung 502, Ammo by Mig, Vallejo and Microscale Industries products. I use AK Real Color and Tamiya paints to paint the main surfaces of the model and most of the weathering is done using my favorite Abteilung 502 oils.
To enhance the build I use Eduard Big Ed BIG49301 upgrade set.
All products used I paid for myself and there is no paid promotion in the video.
Please keep comments pleasant, constructive criticism is fine, but anything rude or abusive will be deleted. This is not my day-job, I model and make these videos for enjoyment and I am far from being a professional modeler.
If you would like to follow me on instagram:
/ scale_model_andy
Thank you for watching.
very nice job of weathering without going overboard. The subtle look is so much more realistic and the light panel liner really looks great
Really nice build with some terrific weathering. As a relatively new modeller, I would love to see, perhaps on a separate video, how you assemble and bend the photoetch parts as these often terrify me. Keep up the good work 👏👏👍
I have really enjoyed watching your videos.
I am gradually getting back into the hobby after quite a long hiatus and I find your builds very inspiring.
I will never get to your level of expertise. I can barely get a stock kit to look half way decent. But I so enjoy watching and listening to you explain what you're doing. I'm truly learning a lot from you. Your weathering is incredible. I'm terrified to try it but I'm going to give it a go. I'm a 68 year old who just went through heart surgery so I have plenty of time to try your techniques. Thank you for your videos!
Hi Stephen, great to hear the videos are helping. Good luck with your builds. Stay well. Andy
I have this in the stash and you have given me the incentive to put it high on the 'to build' list. Thank you for a great video.
Nice work I’m starting to come around to using time saving products like the readymade washes and antenna wire nice F4B build too I’ll stand by for the next one
Jolly good build!
Earliest Ju-87D-1's did have RLM 02 interiors.
Most B-2's, and ALL D series & later had wood props, pressure-covered with linen, painted, and a nailed-on narrow, brass leading edge strip, similar to British wood props. So, no "silver" chipping!
Also, German a/c paints were much less prone to chipping, flaking & even fading than Allied--esp. U.S.--, Italian & Japanese paints.
After D-1, all subsequent models did away with advesive-atttached, black rubber walk strips, instead using rivet-attached, metal walk strips, painted in a/c's camouflage colors.
Excellent inspiring work. Back into modelling after 20 yrs and your information is very useful. Thanks
Amazing..the Stuka is about to SCREAM…
I just watched your F4 build and then this one, back to back - your attention to detail is phenomenal and you made a subscriber out of me!
One word......Beautiful!!
Im not building the planes but really enjoyed watching your Stuka build. I like the final result a lot, especially the weathering which is very similar to the one we use on 1/35 tanks! :)
I’ve never built a model,but really enjoy your videos.I find the skill and workmanship you put into each build amazing.Keep up the great work,look forward to your next video.👍🏻
Another amazing build and paint just like the way you finish off with all the detailing paint 👏👏👏
A brilliant piece of work. I'm just about to start the very same kit.
Outstanding Sir, hats off.
Beautiful build!
Nice build, Andy 👌
I really enjoyed that. May I suggest that exhaust is most unlikely to be be swept under the wings. The airflow is directed upwards well before the wings due to the pattern of the distribution of lift. Overall, I learnt a great deal - as usual. Thank you.
my god this is just amazing work !!!!! wish i had this talent 😮💨😮💨😮💨😮💨😮💨
That sir was a excellent build, you should be very proud of your effort, best regards from Australia.
Why don't these kits include pilot and crew figures? That would be a great finishing touch. Beautiful build, love the paintjob.
Brilliantly done 👍
Beautiful detail. Nice job.
Great job! She is a beautiful aircraft!
You are a freaking artist.
Fantastic video! Thank you.
Great building! Keep up the good work!
Your videos are very well-made but I would really appreciate it if you had more commentary on what you were doing how you were doing it and why? Narration is always helpful in these kind of videos I find
Bonjour très belle réalisation👍👍👍👍
Nice work, I liked it! Congratulations!
Perfect patina.
awesome build
I bit late here, but I know how you said the color didn't match for the printed details and the cockpit. It seemed that your technique of matching the color then rubbing the details back through added a color variation similar to what we do on the outside of the fuselage. The effect seemed quite nice on camera.
Beautiful plane !
You always amaze me at the level of realism you artfully craft onto your model builds. They look absolutely amazing. The STUKA was an absolute legend in WWII. Slow but deadly in the hands of a skilled Pilot.
Gteat Job, thank you 🙂
I really love your channel. You have an amazing talent for models.
I have one corny request: please please do a video on how to properly mix paints. If I get it right (the paint flow) it’s pure luck.
My paint seems to splatter rather than go on smooth.
Id greatly appreciate if you would do that.
Thx
Hi. Thank you. I can look at doing a video like that. I would say that I predominantly use Tamiya, Mr Hobby and AK Real Color paints for airbrushing. As a rule of thumb I thin all of these paints 2:1. 2 parts paint to 1 parts thinner. And i usually use the manufacturers recommended thinner. Hope this helps a little, but I will look at doing a short paint mix tutorial. Cheers. Andy
I like your details 😁👍
Excelente trabalho, parabéns!👏👏👏👍🤩
Great!!!! 🤩
Great job
VS-11propeller blades were wooden!!!))
Hi, I think your right! I didn't realise. I thought the early 2 blade was wood and the Junker Variable-Pitch 3 blade was metal. But it seems it isn't that clear! Thanks. Andy.
Did I miss all the photo etch being installed?
We're the propeller siren under the wing
Хорошая работа, но камуфляж не стандартный.
What do I think? Flaming marvelous is what I think sir. Great work.
Where are the Horns of Jericho sirens? I see the protrusions for them on the landing gear, did the model not come with them?
👍
How do you get your airbrush to spray so fine
😮
Looking to move away from vallejo model air as it doesnt work with my h&s evo 2024. Do you have a preference between tamiya, mr hobby or ak or do they all work well? And do they all need their own brand thinners? Do you suffer from tip dry from any of thewe brands as vallejo clogs and dries after about 5 seconds. Very frustrating.
Nice! I picked up there spitfire VA the other day 1.32 got everything but a spitfire! So why not eh! Did it have the gun sight in this kit? That airfix one I've got doesn't I need to source one for it!
I tried VMS varnish on my last model, just couldn't get on with it, it just kept clogging up my airbrush. That was with a 0.4mm nozzle. Don't think I'd use it again.
Strange.. vms varnish (all types but the matt one especially good) works great with me, using an evolution airbrush at 20 psi and a 0,3 mm needlee, no thinning. Being a varnish with no paint pigments it doesnt clog at all but demands a good cleaning of the airbrush afterward.
Hi, what kind of drill you have?
Hi. Its a Dremel Stylo. Thanks.
Great videos. Love the techniques you use throughout your builds, especially the use of the 502 oils. Oils have always seemed popular with armour models and its nice to see it being applied similarly to aircraft. Can I ask on average how much time you would put in to a 1/48 kit such as the stuka? Many thanks again..
Hi, thank you. Probably about 20 hours for this one. Cheers
Thanks !
👌🏿👍🏿
pls polish pzl 23 karas
Aluminum lieutenant.
И нахрена ты одел перчатки???
Dude
Abteilung.... What the hell?
Try this
Up
tile
And then say something like "oonk".
Put it all together
Up-Tile-Oonk
and you are close.
Thank you, a bit untactful in the approach.....but noted all the same! Andy
Word of the wise... The amount of weathering to the cockpit is a bit too over done. You don't see that amount of dirt in a cockpit especially around areas where dirt doesn't rub off the pilot or crews shoes. Also the dry brushing should be done with light grey or lighter shade of original color to show highlight. Using silver or metal on areas where their is no "traffic" or wear is not recommended for the cockpit. The silver panel line wash is not realistic either. You don't have a huge amount of panels rubbing together at the seams to make bare metal to show through. A light dust wash on the panel lines on the wings is more of what you need on aircraft for the desert. But refer to period photos. As for exhaust staining. You have to know how the prop turns to know how to do the correct pattern for staining. On a prop that turns counter clockwise looking at it from the front, the left side is going to be blown slightly up before traveling aft down the fuselage before going over the wing because the corkscrew air coming off the prop. The right side is doing to have down draft off of the prop before going over the wing and under. That is why you see most aircraft having having exhaust stain high on the one side and low on the other.
Yet it still looks pretty good regardless ;)
@@memkiii It does look very nice. I like the look of it. I am in the process of doing 2 Ju87s. One B-2, one R. Just finished a Ju87A earlier this year. So regrouping from how bad of kit that was. I am just particular on weathering for the newer modelers out there to heed caution on thinking that is how it Should be. I am more restrained on things.
You must be the "Eric Olthwaite" of the modelling world.
Remind me to invite you to my parties.
Thank you, Some interesting points to consider!
o/
I wanted to try a plastic model but its pointless
Man you’re choice of music for this video was abysmal !
👍👍👍👍✌🤝
Beautiful work!
Beautiful build, Sir!!!! Top Notch!!! 👍👍
I've recently started using VMS Gloss HD, it's very thick, even from the bottle and if you aren't careful, can leave an orange peel like appearance. I thin mine 50% with Vallejo Acrylic Thinners and apply light coats. I have spoilt a few models in the past using this product.
Agreed, It's very easy in infill detail laying it thick enough to get the gloss finish. Then your screwed! 50% sounds good. But Mr Hobby Gx100 works so well! 😉 Thanks for watching. Andy
@@ScaleModelShed very good 🇨🇱🤘
Great looking Stuka, I'm keen to try some of the VMS products, happy modelling mate 😉👍
so nice !!! Great work sir... :-)
Love your work m8 - are you Noel Fielding's more talented brother? :)
I love your videos and I appreciate your skills. I built my last plastic model about 40 years ago and needless to say a lot has changed! Perhaps you could give those of us coming back to the hobby a peak into how you organize your workspace, recommendations for paints, glues and tools and other tips and tricks to set up a proper space to build models. Thank you!
I'm right there with you. My last model was a 1/32 scale matchbox bf109e. I even had an airbrush! I think that was in my early twenties. I always painted individual parts on the sprue and then glued them together which is obviously not the way to do it. Lol. I did the same for the wings and fuselage parts. Never occurred to me to put stuff together and then paint it. 🙄
Hi Gregory. I will certainly look at doing a short video along those lines in the near future. Many thanks. Andy
nice job ,i cant find the blueprints but the glass bit on top of the canopy rails under the main canopy to give space for the antenna so yes you had to remove it or to make it more scale glue another very fine thin clear part under ther.... ,again if you want to be 100% scale the canopy of this model is not scale anyway ,it needs to be lower and thinner so....its fine for that old kit anyway !
Hi, Thought so! Yes, the canopy doesn't seem quite right, but as you say, it's OK for an older kit. Thanks for your comment. Andy
Something about your voice,the music and your methods make your videos perfect for chilling me out before bed,great videos.
Awesome job!
Hello Scale Model Shed nice looking Stuka known as the screaming bomber. You chose a Luftwaffe plane aircraft. Nice build on this model plane. 🇩🇪🇩🇪⭐🌟🌠
Hell a lot better than me at modeling lol
Really nice job, thanks for sharing 👍👍👍👍👍
Only thing I think that's Ju-87D-5 and not JU-87D-3 correct for Walter Sigel airplane
Great work!! For years I used actual graphite/ charcoal and gray soot then sealed it with clear-it was so much more controllable than the liquids
I really enjoy watching you work. The way you explain what you are doing is both entertaining and educational. I also like how you build both aircraft and armor.
It's probably the absolutely best JU-87 I've ever seen !! Fantastic!!
Thx for your video and quality effort!
Rather than make subjective comments regarding amounts and interpretations of wear--to each his own--I thought I'd leave an objective note. 'All' B2 and later Stukas used wooden props. This is easily distinguished in photos because the early (B1) metal Jumo props have more narrow chords. The wooden props were manufactured with a glued-on linen covering, and then a very narrow, thin brass protective strip was nailed/screwed to each blade's leading edge. The last step was to spray paint each wooden blade 71 dark green, and then the blade logo/part number in red. Consequently, it would be incorrect to depict finish wear or nicks to these wooden prop blades with 'silver'-colored paint, implying metal blades.
1993 was only 10 years ago, what are you talking about??
Too much glue
Good effort,the antiskid stripes were only used in the Eastern Front NOT in the NorthAfrican campaign.
Nice job!!!
Yet another wood prop with metal chips...
Sukas had metal props
@@Wt-time early Stukas (A and B/R-1) had metal props. B/R-2, D and G had compressed wood props.
oh i geuss your right
@@ritaheggdal453
I wonder if the Corsair got it's wing shape from this.....
Beautiful job my Friend -Detroit
How much research do you do before deciding on a paint scheme?
that plane make,s a wissel sound wen itt go down to bomb and shoot the annemy.....
Am still waiting for that diorama you are thinking about making
Stunning
👍
I love Ww2 planes they are cool
Great looking JU87! What is the "pencil like" silver chipping tool used in this video? Brand name/Where purchased? Thank you!
Hi, do you mean the paint brush I used for chipping. It is a brush called a rigger, very long fine bristles. Thanks, Andy.
Amazing!
Beautiful
thats madness skill wow