Enjoy my collection of propeller driven aircraft models. You will find iconic warbirds from WW2 to Vietnam and can follow the build, paint and weathering process. ua-cam.com/play/PLnh-SozPErfmAyI7EboeaLh6Kd3DqB8iM.html
If you enjoy Interior detailing but nobody else can see that doesn't really matter, you've achieved the most important part of model making..you've enjoyed it!!!
Great work. Just as an FYI, though. You really didn't need to remove the ridge on the exhaust pipes, because there's a weld seam on the real deal. Also, for the antenna, you should purchase some EZ LINE or equivalent. It's stretchy and thin, so it looks good in scale and doesn't droop. It stays taught. Just a suggestion.
Many thanks for the good advice. The seams on the exhaust pipes can be seen clearly in photos. To show them at the right scale, I could maybe just sand the ridge a little thinner. I only had something like EZ LINE for 1/72 scale. Worked well on my 1/72 Hellcat but was too thin for 1/48. I'll keep an eye out for that. Regards ScalerDan
I just finished the Kotare 1/32 Spitfire Mk 1a. I added the control wires in the cockpit, and drilled out all the lightning holes in the frames, which they suggest you do for added detail. Nobody will ever see it, unless the use a flashlight and know exactly where to look and even then they won't see much. Still it was fun, i know it's there and have pictures of it before it went into the fuselage. If you want to take that kind of detail to the extreme build a Zoukei Mura 1/32 kit. Great build btw
Thank you for your comment and your thoughts. Kotare Spitfire sounds very promising! These extra details are an important part of the hobby for me. It's also about the work you put into it and the joy of implementing an idea. Documenting these 'invisible' details and making them visible in the video is another exciting challenge. Regards ScalerDan
Superb. The way you edited the video to very clearly document each step, without extended coverage of each brushstroke/spray , is excellent - allows me to see what I need to see at every step. Just got to up my skill level now :(
Thank you very much for the kind comment. It's very nice when the video comes across exactly as intended. Sometimes it's better not to film too much, then you have to cut less. I think the skills come when you enjoy something. A Tamiya 1/48 scale is perfect for practicing. You don't have to fight against the model and can focus on doing something really well. Regards ScalerDan
Thank you for the video. I asked another builder is and they gave me an ear full! I’d like to see a build out of the box. Most of use don’t have the means to buy extras
Thank you for watching and commenting. There is nothing wrong with building a kit out of the box and having a good time. I love upgrading cockpits and the development in 3D printing is impressive but as I said, it is a very individual decision and often not necessary for a great result. It is good that there is something for everyone in this hobby. Regards ScalerDan
Yes I understand your point but, to me watching all these videos has really turned me off from this hobby. My wife said I look more stressed making then then I did when we was first married 40 years ago. From what I remember the only upgrade was decals. :-D I think yelling at the kids that live on my street suits me better now. HEY! GET OFF MY LAWN! I JUST PUT GRRASS SEED DOWN!!!
@@danaringquist9730 If the joy of the hobby becomes too stressful, you should definitely take a break. A good lawn is also not to be underestimated...😉Regards ScalerDan
Beautiful work. You might have inspired me to try my first wheels up model with this kit, it looks really good. Thanks for sharing all your tips for this kit!
Thank you for watching and for your kind words. A nice comment like yours is very motivating when editing the next video makes slow progress again. Regards ScalerDan
Amazingly good work, but there are a couple of points to note. FIRST: Unless this is intended to be depicted a month or more after June 5/6th, 1944, the D-Day stripes would be almost pristine (if roughly applied in haste, generally on the 4th or 5th of June.) You have depicted them with Extensive chipping and weathering. By the end of June Many Allied planes had the uppersurface stripes overpainted with fresh OD which would also appear unweathered for a while, and certainly by the end of July this would have been done almost universally in both RAF and USAAF Fighter units. SECOND: When you painted the Propeller blades and chipped them, the chipping was along the whole of the Leading edge. The Hamilton Standard Propeller of the P-51B/C/D had a "Boot" at the inner portion, which was made from solid rubber molds and fitted over each blade. Any paint chips on the (rubber) leading edges would be almost invisible because of the Black rubber under the paint. But that is really all I can point out, like I said, Amazingly Good work!
Thank you for your interesting comment. When it comes to the invasion stripes, I chose a more artistic approach to make the model visually interesting. Your advice on the propeller is very helpful. If I understand correctly, the metal chipping on the outer half of the propeller blade is possible, only the inner half was rubberized? I have read about 'uncuffed' propeller blades on post-war Mustangs. That would probably be more true for Korean War Mustangs. Thanks again for your input. Regards ScalerDan
Thank you very much. I am happy to share some skills. It is a good time for Mustang enthusiasts with all the new kits from Eduard or Arma Hobby. Regards ScalerDan
Thank you for your interesting information. Unfortunately I didn't have a reference photo of this specific aircraft. Some photos of B/C-Mustangs show the various antenna masts and some have wires. Maybe they were early versions but I'm not an expert here. Overall the wire is also shown a bit too thick. The new Eduard Overlord Kit shows different antenna setups in the instructions Regards ScalerDan
I completely agree. As much as I like the great details at Eduard, sometimes you just want a relaxed, uncomplicated building experience. Regards ScalerDan
Thank you for the nice comment. Sometimes it's more relaxing to just build something without any intention of showing it. But I'm also happy when a video can provide some entertainment and distraction. My steady hand helps as long as my eyes can still focus. Regards ScalerDan
@scaler Dan I was curious where you got that stand at ? I would love to have some of those ! Absolutely beautiful build !! The Tamiya P-51B is my favorite kit from Tamiya ! I have a 4th FG on the bench with a 352nd FG one . Also finished a few months ago. 352nd FG one .
Thank you very much for your kind comment. The stand is my own creation and you can get the 3D print file via my Cults. profile. I have created a labeled stand for B and D Mustangs. I hope you have fun building your models and maybe you will find the stands useful. Regards ScalerDan cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various/aircraft-stand-for-p-51b-d-mustang
Great looking model, nice job! What do you use to clean the Real Colors from the airbrush? I found out that normal airbrush cleaner does not work well since it's a lacquer and the AK thinner is too expensive to use a an airbrush cleaner.
Thank you for watching. I only use Mr Color Leveling Thinner and Rapid Thinner for thinning. I also use these two for cleaning. Not the cheapest solution but it works. Rapid Thinner is a bit cheaper so I prefer to use it for cleaning. At the end I usually leave a drop of Leveling Thinner in the airbrush so that nothing sticks. Basically anything that thins lacquer-based colors should work for cleaning but not the acrylic stuff. Regards ScalerDan
Thank you for your question? It depends... I usually use Tamiya Extra Thin. If I need it to hold quickly and there is only a small contact surface, I use superglue (e.g. wheels, external loads). But I use everything very carefully and sparingly so as not to destroy the paintwork. Regards ScalerDan
Enjoy my collection of propeller driven aircraft models. You will find iconic warbirds from WW2 to Vietnam and can follow the build, paint and weathering process. ua-cam.com/play/PLnh-SozPErfmAyI7EboeaLh6Kd3DqB8iM.html
Thanks i Will...SUBSCRIBED👍👍
If you enjoy Interior detailing but nobody else can see that doesn't really matter, you've achieved the most important part of model making..you've enjoyed it!!!
These are true words. Thank you for watching and commenting. Regards ScalerDan
Great work. Just as an FYI, though. You really didn't need to remove the ridge on the exhaust pipes, because there's a weld seam on the real deal.
Also, for the antenna, you should purchase some EZ LINE or equivalent. It's stretchy and thin, so it looks good in scale and doesn't droop. It stays taught. Just a suggestion.
Many thanks for the good advice. The seams on the exhaust pipes can be seen clearly in photos. To show them at the right scale, I could maybe just sand the ridge a little thinner.
I only had something like EZ LINE for 1/72 scale. Worked well on my 1/72 Hellcat but was too thin for 1/48. I'll keep an eye out for that. Regards ScalerDan
amazing build,thank you for sharing
Thank you for your kind words. Regards ScalerDan
SUPERB 👍👍
Many thanks! Regards ScalerDan
Nice one mate cheers ✌
Thanks a lot for watching and commenting! Regards ScalerDan
I just finished the Kotare 1/32 Spitfire Mk 1a. I added the control wires in the cockpit, and drilled out all the lightning holes in the frames, which they suggest you do for added detail.
Nobody will ever see it, unless the use a flashlight and know exactly where to look and even then they won't see much. Still it was fun, i know it's there and have pictures of it before it went into the fuselage.
If you want to take that kind of detail to the extreme build a Zoukei Mura 1/32 kit.
Great build btw
Thank you for your comment and your thoughts. Kotare Spitfire sounds very promising!
These extra details are an important part of the hobby for me. It's also about the work you put into it and the joy of implementing an idea.
Documenting these 'invisible' details and making them visible in the video is another exciting challenge. Regards ScalerDan
Outstanding! The amount of work you put into this requires much patience and dedication
Thank you very much for the praise! Sometimes you have to force yourself to keep going but in the end it's usually worth it. Regards ScalerDan
Supurb!😊
Thanks a lot! Regards ScalerDan
Superb. The way you edited the video to very clearly document each step, without extended coverage of each brushstroke/spray , is excellent - allows me to see what I need to see at every step. Just got to up my skill level now :(
Thank you very much for the kind comment. It's very nice when the video comes across exactly as intended. Sometimes it's better not to film too much, then you have to cut less.
I think the skills come when you enjoy something. A Tamiya 1/48 scale is perfect for practicing. You don't have to fight against the model and can focus on doing something really well. Regards ScalerDan
Thank you for the video. I asked another builder is and they gave me an ear full! I’d like to see a build out of the box. Most of use don’t have the means to buy extras
Thank you for watching and commenting. There is nothing wrong with building a kit out of the box and having a good time. I love upgrading cockpits and the development in 3D printing is impressive but as I said, it is a very individual decision and often not necessary for a great result. It is good that there is something for everyone in this hobby. Regards ScalerDan
Yes I understand your point but, to me watching all these videos has really turned me off from this hobby. My wife said I look more stressed making then then I did when we was first married 40 years ago. From what I remember the only upgrade was decals. :-D I think yelling at the kids that live on my street suits me better now. HEY! GET OFF MY LAWN! I JUST PUT GRRASS SEED DOWN!!!
@@danaringquist9730 If the joy of the hobby becomes too stressful, you should definitely take a break. A good lawn is also not to be underestimated...😉Regards ScalerDan
Beautiful work. You might have inspired me to try my first wheels up model with this kit, it looks really good. Thanks for sharing all your tips for this kit!
Thank you very much. I would love to see your first wheels up attempt. These warbirds are made to be in the air...Regards ScalerDan
Dan, what a brilliant video! The model looks absolutely superb! Thank you for taking the time to share your work.
Thank you for watching and for your kind words. A nice comment like yours is very motivating when editing the next video makes slow progress again. Regards ScalerDan
Amazingly good work, but there are a couple of points to note. FIRST: Unless this is intended to be depicted a month or more after June 5/6th, 1944, the D-Day stripes would be almost pristine (if roughly applied in haste, generally on the 4th or 5th of June.) You have depicted them with Extensive chipping and weathering. By the end of June Many Allied planes had the uppersurface stripes overpainted with fresh OD which would also appear unweathered for a while, and certainly by the end of July this would have been done almost universally in both RAF and USAAF Fighter units. SECOND: When you painted the Propeller blades and chipped them, the chipping was along the whole of the Leading edge. The Hamilton Standard Propeller of the P-51B/C/D had a "Boot" at the inner portion, which was made from solid rubber molds and fitted over each blade. Any paint chips on the (rubber) leading edges would be almost invisible because of the Black rubber under the paint. But that is really all I can point out, like I said, Amazingly Good work!
Thank you for your interesting comment. When it comes to the invasion stripes, I chose a more artistic approach to make the model visually interesting. Your advice on the propeller is very helpful. If I understand correctly, the metal chipping on the outer half of the propeller blade is possible, only the inner half was rubberized? I have read about 'uncuffed' propeller blades on post-war Mustangs. That would probably be more true for Korean War Mustangs. Thanks again for your input. Regards ScalerDan
That was nothing short of a absolutely outstanding build and paint finish, congratulations on a job very well done, best regards from Australia, Les
Thank you very much for your kind words my friend. I am also very satisfied with the result. Best regards from Europe...ScalerDan
That was a thoroughly enjoyable build.
Thank you for watching and commenting. Regards ScalerDan
What a fantastic build, there's a technique or two I may use. Also the B/C is my favorite version of the Mustang.And a new subscriber
Thank you very much. I am happy to share some skills. It is a good time for Mustang enthusiasts with all the new kits from Eduard or Arma Hobby. Regards ScalerDan
Stunning work..
Thanks a lot! Regards ScalerDan
Beautiful job! Thank you for the Montex information, I am going to try them.
Thank you for your kind words. Unfortunately the Montex masks are not always available everywhere but they work very well. Regards ScalerDan
Very nice but no 8th AF (or 357th FG) Mustangs had antenna wires. They used radios that didn't use them. Only the antenna mast(s).
Thank you for your interesting information. Unfortunately I didn't have a reference photo of this specific aircraft. Some photos of B/C-Mustangs show the various antenna masts and some have wires. Maybe they were early versions but I'm not an expert here. Overall the wire is also shown a bit too thick. The new Eduard Overlord Kit shows different antenna setups in the instructions Regards ScalerDan
Great job, well done and thanks for the video.
Thank you for your nice comment. Regards ScalerDan
A lovely build. Subscribed!.
Thank you very much! Stay tuned...Regards ScalerDan
The Tamiya kit, although from the '90's, is still an excellent kit and has fewet parts than the Eduard.
I completely agree. As much as I like the great details at Eduard, sometimes you just want a relaxed, uncomplicated building experience. Regards ScalerDan
Hi, it doesn’t matter to me if they are seen as I model to create not to show……if you follow me?
I admire your steady hand!
Great work
Bob
England
Thank you for the nice comment. Sometimes it's more relaxing to just build something without any intention of showing it. But I'm also happy when a video can provide some entertainment and distraction. My steady hand helps as long as my eyes can still focus. Regards ScalerDan
@scaler Dan I was curious where you got that stand at ? I would love to have some of those ! Absolutely beautiful build !! The Tamiya P-51B is my favorite kit from Tamiya ! I have a 4th FG on the bench with a 352nd FG one . Also finished a few months ago. 352nd FG one .
Thank you very much for your kind comment. The stand is my own creation and you can get the 3D print file via my Cults. profile. I have created a labeled stand for B and D Mustangs. I hope you have fun building your models and maybe you will find the stands useful. Regards ScalerDan
cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various/aircraft-stand-for-p-51b-d-mustang
superbe
Thank you! Regards ScalerDan
Great looking model, nice job!
What do you use to clean the Real Colors from the airbrush? I found out that normal airbrush cleaner does not work well since it's a lacquer and the AK thinner is too expensive to use a an airbrush cleaner.
Thank you for watching. I only use Mr Color Leveling Thinner and Rapid Thinner for thinning. I also use these two for cleaning. Not the cheapest solution but it works. Rapid Thinner is a bit cheaper so I prefer to use it for cleaning. At the end I usually leave a drop of Leveling Thinner in the airbrush so that nothing sticks. Basically anything that thins lacquer-based colors should work for cleaning but not the acrylic stuff. Regards ScalerDan
@@ScalerDan Thank you. I'll try to find cheap lacquer thinner. I use a H&S airbrush so it should be ok with the hot thinner :)
@@marcusaureliusantoninusaug2161 That should work. My H&S has seen every kind of cleaner and if necessary you can always change the seals...
What do you use to glue parts together if they are painted?
Thank you for your question? It depends... I usually use Tamiya Extra Thin. If I need it to hold quickly and there is only a small contact surface, I use superglue (e.g. wheels, external loads). But I use everything very carefully and sparingly so as not to destroy the paintwork. Regards ScalerDan