The two most useful things to do to this generator when you take it out of the box are brought up in this video, change out the spark plug and fix the valve lash clearances. These two things both made a huge difference with my generator, especially when running it on propane. Without these things, it just runs horrible. My thought is maybe you leave the OEM spark plug in there for the first 1 hour of break-in or even 5-hour break-in as some residue ends up on it during the first part of the break-in so you have a slightly cleaner real spark plug in there later. But really the OEM plug is complete garbage, so it is not going to really work after more than an hour or first few hours of use anyway, so you really have to replace it. The problem with the OEM spark plug first really shows up at idle. So rough idle, especially on propane, that OEM spark plug is starting to fail already. It needs to go. In other words, the order of break-in for this generator I think probably should be: 1. Before starting the generator, take the valve cover off and stuff your feeler gauge in there to figure out the valve lash clearances and adjust with a torque wrench. I also used needle nose pliers to carefully adjust the screw. 2. Do the break in. Mr Garage prefers to change the oil at the 1-hour mark. The manual talks about a 5-hour break-in for this generator. Certainly don't load up the generator too much before the 5-hour mark however you go about it. Certainly don't go above 5 hours without changing the oil in this generator when breaking it in. When you first change the oil, be it the 1-hour or 5-hour mark, change out the OEM spark plug for a real one like the NTK one linked by Mr Garage. I actually had a hard time getting this particular plug at any of the major auto-parts stores in my area, so ended up with a Champion plug. It is still working far better than the OEM plug was at the time I removed it. I have to wonder if some of the residue on it after the first part of the break-in negatively affected the performance of the plug, granted these Chinese plugs are notoriously bad. Just figure if it can make it upwards to a few hours before crapping out, use it for those few hours so it is the plug that gets the residue from break-in as well so the next plug stays cleaner and thus works better. So both the supplied oil and the supplied spark plug need to go after break-in. After adding these things to the initial setup and break-in instructions, this generator should work a lot better than it would otherwise. Somethingthing to add for propane is it seems to work better if you start on choke for the first pull or two, then switch to run. I think it pulls in the propane on choke and then run mode gets the propane to ignite. It is just you don't get both at the same time when on propane. This is of course after doing the manual purge of the fuel line as shown in this video as there is no purge valve on this setup. This is a bit of a stripped down, you know what you are doing kind of generator. But if you know what you are doing, you can get this started up pretty quick. For the wheel chatter and cotter pin, a pro-tip is to put the cotter pins in rotated sideways as in the bumpy part faces inward towards the middle of the generator, in other words is in a flat orientation. The shaft is a lot thicker than it is long where the pin hole is. Once the cotter pin is in place, you just rotate it down and the wheel shaft is locked in place. Easy peasy. Don't make it harder than you have to.
Appreciate your review-- I took the chance on it as I could pick it up for $480 free shipping no sales tax. I immediately bought the different spark plug and magnetic dipstick you recommended. I believe they modified the generator since your review for several reasons: >adjusted the valve clearance and it was very close already to specs and if anything too loose >wheel assembly is much different than yours and wheels are extremely hard to remove (could never get it) and designed very different. But fortunately this seems to have resolved the rattle as mine were silent on startup All in all I feel the quirks with this have been solved enough for me to stick with it 😀
Thanks for the absolutely awesome review and teardown of this generator! I have the gd400bn and purchased this to parallel with it for dual ac travel trailer. I can report that the wheel carriage setup is different in that there is a molded axle with a lock nut to secure the wheels which has no vibration. I removed the wheels and handle (which rattled a little) since I won't use those which subtracted 1.5 lbs off the weight. My scale has the gd version at 50lbs with oil and the gx version at 57.5lbs without wheels/handle. My manufacture date says 12/23 (even though I purchased in in July). The valve clearance is in spec from the factory and it runs great. Seems like they have worked those kinks out (wheels and valve clearance) and everything else is the same (spade connected to bullet is still there). So far so good on this generator and the price is the same as the gd400bn at this point. Keep up the good work sir!
I haven’t watched the full video yet but thank you for being the first to it review it with a deep dive into it. I also have the other version, I’ve been eyeing this generator for 2 weeks but like you there in NO info on it. It’s not even on the pulsar website. I wanted to know what the difference was between this in the GD400BN. I also bought the upgraded spark plug and meter for the GD model thanks to your review. I watched the whole video, I love how detail your review is. 3 year warranty vs 1 year on the GD. The GX is about 10lbs heavier but has wheels and a handle (wheels rattle and it’s a easy fix). Uses a 13/16 hex spark plug vs 5/8, twice the size has tank, a lot more options like co detect, a digital meter, upgraded AC plugs, a different manufacturer but it’s the first version and may have a few bugs. I say this because clearly you had more then 1 issue with the meter and the valve clearance. Maybe build quality will improve in the next few months. The GX with your testing seems to be slightly less quiet. I want to have two generators 1 to run on propane only and store for emergencies, the other to use frequently around the property with gas to weld. I was looking into 2200w PG2200BiS as a option for car camping on propane before I bought the GD. The PG is gone up in value from 420 to 699 on Amazon. The GD offers more power, about the same weight and size but now less. The GX seems to be on the introduction pricing because it’s cheaper then the GD. If there’s another 20 bucks or so savings near Black Friday I will order the GX to use around the house and store the GD for emergencies.
My GD400BN has the three year warranty (1 year parts and labor and 2 years parts) (Maybe they have just started offering that?). It is printed on the box that it has the three year warranty. I even contacted Pulsar to confirm before I purchased and they told me the website is incorrect.
@@lonniesykes1818 That's good to hear because the website 100% says 1 year. I know own 3 pulsar Gens and the GD is the only one that stated 1 year on the website. I bought the extended warranty so i hope i never have to use it. Make sure you get the "three year warranty (1 year parts and labor and 2 years parts)" in writings from them.
Torn down, adjusted valve clearances, put thin rubber washers on wheel axles, put back together and fired up on propane, wow, what a huge difference! I let it warm up and turned the on/off a little closer to the choke side, just a bit, not much and this generator purrs great, no wheel rattle and a lot smoother running at idle or eco off, thanks for the tips! I have the GD400 also, I do believe the GX400 version is a little quieter also.
Thanks for the great videos! After watching both reviews I went with the GX400 vice the GD400. I'll also be changing out the oil in my other Generators with the Rotella and the spark plugs to iridium. Weird thing is that with the increased features, this is cheaper on Amazon than the GD (Same price with the GD on sale). I really like the increased power and smaller size. My 2800 Champion was huge compared to these and much heavier.
Been shopping these 3kw 150cc generators to replace the broken 20 year old generac my new to me rv left the factory with. A-ipower also sells a version of this model. Genmax has some interesting variants on these they have one with electric start, one about to go on sale with fuel injection instead of a carb and they have an open frame version designed to feed from external fuel tanks. Theirs also allow you to series them for 240 volt power. Edit: The noise different would be enough for me to go with this style unit assuming it fits in my basement storage on my motorhome.
Very Cool. Genmax = Dinking. A-ipower usually uses Senci as a CM but have seen several other models from them too. Loncin + others. Let me know the model A-ipower that is like this one. Everything on their site currently looks to be Senci.
Sorry I've looked at too many of these and misremembered. I think I was thinking of the GXS4300iD because it's got a similar feature set with the display, wheels and telescoping handle but it's clearly a different model.
Amperage problem "resolved" Time stamp 4:25. Happy new years MR Garage. I now own both the GX and the GD. So the LCD shows Voltage, load/wattage usage as squares on the very top LT to right. The volts, Hertz, "A" I'm assuming is for approximant run time while using Gas only? I have confirmed this many times before writing this. I think "A" works hand and hand with the gasoline fuel gauge and load/watts being used. The "A" value changes up or down based on your load and how much fuel its reading to approximate how long the Gene will run at it's current load with the remaining gas in the tank. I'm 99.999% sure of this. If i add more fuel or change the load, the vale instantly changes. More fuel and less load a higher value is displayed, low fuel and a large load the value decreases. You were running the Gene on propane and the fuel gauge was zero, I think this is why the "A" value was not displaying. Cheers and I hope this helps everyone in the future. Also I think "S" is for current run time and reset when the engine turns off and "C" for cumulative run time. PS Pulsar higher MR Garage as a consultant for your advertising and manual documentation. PS: PS: The wheels and the carry handle both make a ratting noise. After i fixed the wheels (thanks to you) I noticed the handle shakes, I have to pull it out a bit to lessen the noise.
Good info on the A portion. I incorrectly assumed amperage. Would be nice if their documentation stated the info properly! I ended up returning the GX and kept the GD which has been awesome. No regrets so far. Still wanting more features so I have a Heomaito HMT3500iD dual fuel on the way. Looks like a good option between the GD and GX. Will review in the next week. Heomaito features: - Little over 1.5G fuel capacity, +.5 over the GD - No pull out handle or wheels, built more like the GD (did not want those as an option myself) - Very nice digital display with proper readout - Spec at 50lbs, virtually same as the GD - Has a 149cc engine like the GX, unsure if the same assembly - True 20A plug where the GD has a 15A they claim is 20A Pretty excited about trying it out! Sensi looks to be the CM but cannot confirm yet.
which temp gauge did you use? I like the look of the GX, I love the wheels and updated plugs etc. I took photos of both model cylinder heads, the GD has very rough edges while the GX cylinder head looks how cylinder heads should be, nice and smooth. I think both are great, both are budget generators for the power and both need a little work to get them tip top.
a tip I learned is you should open the valve on the LP tank slowly so the regulator in the hose line doesn't close off the flow of gas thus limiting the supply. Might try that to see if it fixes you rough idle.
Hello, That does apply to BBQ regulators. I have yet to come across a regulator for a generator that will lock out propane flow in the same way. You can actually open the tank with these regulators / hose unhooked and open as fast as you like, propane will flow at the rate intended by the regulator. If you find any that will lock you out, let me know!
Received my GX400BN yesterday, hooked up to propane and started in 2nd pull. Engine was pretty cold, and ran a little rough at idle then sounded better after warm up. Wheel rattle is there, I’ll fix that, changed oil after break in and put a load on it, sounded much better with load.
@@MR_Garage As you have had more time with this generator and have adjusted the valve lashings, how much do you attribute the rough idle of this generator to the valve lashings versus this generator needs more time to "break-in" more fully or what have you? I have found on gasoline while not completely smooth, it wasn't too terrible, but on propane shortly after, it is really bad. I am considering doing your advice on adjusting the valve lashings, but also want to get a better lay of the land of if it may be worth keeping this generator or returning it while it is still in the 30 day window to Amazon.
The valve lash correction did the most for it. After that, it did get smoother over time. I did end up returning it. Was not happy overall with the the GX and did not need the extra fuel capacity. The GD won me over as I value a more compact design and do not run off gas. To each their own though!
@@MR_Garage For running on propane as I was getting better results with gasoline, I checked the valve lash clearances and came up with the intake was too tight to measure and the exhaust came in at 0.13mm. I put these into spec via the manual. When I ran it, at first I thought maybe it is doing better, maybe I got it as I thought it immediately got out of hand before, but it slowly became more and more imbalanced over time between surging and sputtering that it eventually stalled after a few minutes. Take it off of ECO mode and it sounds fairly smooth, just a little bit rough at first. Run it for a bit with some load on it and it sounds really good. I would say it sounds even better than it did when I first ran it on gasoline. I could have sworn when I first ran it on gasoline, I could hear it periodically miss / skip. Now with propane I could see a little bit of bobble on the generator, but couldn't hear it. Not a beet missed. So I think this work helped, but is certainly short of fixing the problem. I suppose I am still running the stock spark plug, but I did measure it while I had the generator apart and it was within spec. I also drained the float bowl as I had used gasoline before and tightened up the wheels using washers.. I still hear a little bit of raddle, so maybe I didn't get it quite right.
@@MR_Garage I didn't immediately follow your advice to change the spark plug as I thought it would at least last long enough to break in the generator and run it for a little bit. No, it was too much of a counterfeit piece of junk for this. The replacement spark plug I ended up getting was a Champion as I couldn't find the one you recommended at any of the local auto parts stores. It came with 0 gap, so I gapped it to the minimum based on the Pulsar manual. This turned out to be a key piece to getting this generator to run a whole lot better. Still wouldn't call it buttery smooth, but it certainly rocks around less and is a whole lot smoother in general above and beyond the extra smoothness gained by fixing the valve lash clearances. Another way to put it is you got your stuff right in making this generator run a whole lot better than it does out of the box. I just didn't fully appreciate how bad the spark plug deal was. Even when I looked at the spark plug, it didn't look bad. It just worked like crap in the engine anyway.
Great deep dive and walkthrough. Thankyou for this. Question, if planning to use this generator on propane to power a window ac unit and small refrigerator during power outages, how is it grounded? What is it's reference to ground? Should I put in a ground rod somewhere and tie it into the grounds in a junction box prior to the power coming in the house? Thanks again. This was very helpful.
Most will not do it, but the proper way is to use the ground lug on the panel of the generator and connect to a grounding rod. If you only drag the generator out during outages, just use a jumper cable to the lug and connect to the grounding rod quickly and easily. Or, you can use a wingnut on the grounding lug of the generator and use an eyelet to 12-14awg wire... the wire would be permanently attached to the rod.
I really like Pulsar but I agree they do themselves no favors with their website and marketing! I'd be interested in hearing your thoughts on their new GD10KBN, it's apparently their first dual fuel inverter generator.
Really appreciate your in depth, no wasting my time with unboxing footage. Can't find this answer, not gotten a response from Pulsar yet. I was set to buy the GD400BN. Was hoping for DC outlets to run cooling fan on hurricane box. Then see this video on the GX400BN. Also with display great! Here is my question; the GX400BN is not on Pulsar's website anywhere. All over Amazon and Walmart and other places. Was trying to download a manual to clean out Amazon/Walmart mistakes in listings. Do you have any update as to why the GX400BN is not on Pulsar's website? Thanks
It’s there a way you can review their new Pulsar PG5000BiSRCO Dual Fuel 30A RV Ready Portable Inverter Generator with Remote Start? It’s 5000 watts peak and the same size as the one you reviewed in this video, and if so. It would be greatly appreciated.
I do not have it on my list to review but will consider it (have been watching it for a while). Looks to be a nice unit but very heavy in comparison to this unit but also more powerful. Remote start accounts for a lot of that weight.
Bravo, well done. My travel trailer has two quick disconnects on the propane line that I use for my flat top and BBQ. If I were to get just a flexible gas line without a regulator with a male quick release on one end, would this generator work using my trailers onboard regulator? Thanks for your time.
The regulator that comes with the generator is unique to the motor size and carb of the generator. If you ditch the regulator and go straight, there is no guarantee what air fuel ratio you will end up with. A lot of guys do this hack and it may work, start and run but longevity of the motor comes into question. Better to split off the tank pre-regulator and attach the line for the generator directly. Or, use the 2nd propane tank on the trailer (if equipped) specifically for the generator.
Facepalm… I’m literally breaking in the other model you reviewed. Was delivered 6 days ago and just got the last of the extras you recommended. 10 min into break in and see this… dang it! But anyway, thanks for making these awesome vids!
No need to face palm - it is up to 18lbs lighter and all my issues are still not resolved with the new GX series. Looks like it is going back. I may order another just to see if the one I got was just a bad sample... From the rough idle issues, wheel rattle, bad factory valve lash adjustment to the non-working amperage meter. Yeah.... The original GD I reviewed rocked out of the box!
@@MR_Garage You know what I think you’re right. During and after break in it seems super solid. Initial fill with 14oz Pulsar 10w30 and 1oz Lucas after finagling about a tsp of Lucas into the combustion chamber and tilting the gen at different angles. Pulled cord gently 10 times. Used your trick with the propane connection and it started in about 5 pulls. Ran at idle for 30min switching “low idle” on and off then changed the oil. Relatively few metal bits stuck to the mag dipstick you recommended. Filled with 14oz Rotella t4 10w30 and 1oz Lucas and ran it with factory plug for an hr varying from 400w to 900w loads and hitting 1100w a cpl times. Changed oil and found even fewer metal bits. Filled again with t4/Lucas combo and swapped to the iridium plug you recommended and it’s been charging our van flawlessly for almost an hour pushing 1800w. Far smoother with the iridium NGK. It’s awesome you use t6 as I generally keep gallons of 15w40 and 5w40 around for our f550 and Van. Going to switch over to t6 at about 10hrs and feel like the little gen will be taken care of after that. I really appreciate these in depth reviews and recommendations. I know it takes a good amount of time to organize and edit these videos. Thank you!!
Recently bought the smaller generator. The engine runs very smoothly, but it overloads and shuts down on gas when I start my 13,500 but RV air conditioner . On propane, it has no problem even though it's supposed to output less power on propane. Called the company warranty number and told them what was happening and the girl called me back and asked me what kind of gas I was using. Told her non ethanol mid grade I just bought. She said it was designed to run on cheaper regular gas with ethanol. Thought that was incorrect, so I put regular gas with ethanol. It does same thing. According to Google, a 13,500 btu RV air conditioner takes 3,750 watts for start up well within the range for this generator. Love the generator but disappointed that it won't start my rv 13,500 air conditioner. If u have any suggestions about the problem please advise . I'm hoping not having to buy a soft start kit for the air conditioner. Thanks.
So the other model GD400BN is having issues on gas. Very interesting. And yes, she had no clue what she was talking about if she thought a mid grade fuel would be the problem. Ethanol free is even better power wise so the slight bump in octane would have zero effect. I have not tried a surge type load on gas yet vs propane for that unit. Will have to add that to my list and see if I can replicate it. How is your generator running on gas? How does the plug look? Lean or rich? Wonder if the bog on gas is in the jetting.
It runs perfect and starts up first time. I also have Honda 2200i that takes several pulls to start. The generator is 3 weeks old and only have run it for 1 or two hours just enough to see how it performs. It runs smoother than my Honda I am impressed with the Pulsar 4000. I bought the Pulsar due to the added watts over the Honda and side by side Pulsar looks to be the same size as the Honda. Also like the sound of the Pulsar over the Honda it has a lower pitch. I could send it back but it runs so good and powers all my other appliances including the microwave with no problem. I just don't get why on gas it won't increase RPM quick enough to handle that ac spike. I bought it after watching your video. I would appreciate u testing yours on a spike vs propane and the gasoline. Thanks for your prompt reply.
@@MR_Garage It doesn't matter if the eco mode is on or off the red overload light comes the second I turn on the ac. My altitude is about 1000 feet msl.
I do! But for another generator. Exactly the same practice. Make sure it is on a compression stroke, get the motor to TDC and adjust. That simple! ua-cam.com/video/F3g7STq5X3M/v-deo.html
Great video, and I agree that Pulsar's marketing is terrible and confusing. Their website is terrible. I was trying to learn more about the smaller GD400BN after watching your videos, and I don't even see it listed, so I was thinking it's an older model. But it seems to be a newer model... And what's even more confusing, is that some photos on websites show the GD400BN with a side decal that states 2800W running on Propane, while others show a decal with 3000 Propane. Same looking unit. Weird, right? And while price shopping for the GD400BN, they seem to be hard to find actually. Walmart shows it for $599. Amazon has the GD400BN but with the 2800 rated watts on propane photo, yet in the description it states 3000W. But Walmart seems to show the one with the 3000W rated label... odd. It's very confusing. It also seems odd why Pulsar is selling/marketing 2 units that are made by 2 completely different manufacturers yet have almost identical specs with output, and different features. The whole thing is odd.
For the GD400BN, There was the photo shoot before launch and errors in the artwork of their first samples it seems. Even a misspelling on the graphics of the front panel. This was corrected and the 3000W label is what you get on current production units. That is fine as I tested it well past 3000W on propane. They need to update their photo - good catch! The GD400BN is on their website under G series generators. The new GX is not there yet. They could just be testing a new CM or they listened to customer wants for a dual fuel. This unit has enough added features, I can see it being an option along side the GD. The price point is crazy low too. I also see the pro's to having a 10lb lighter generator (nearly 18lbs if both gas tanks are full) and a more compact package. Both in the lineup kinda make sense. Their PM team is rather interesting to say the least!
Hi Mr garage. Really love your detailed videos. Very informative. On the topic of pulsar 3200w generator. I came across one truetimber 3200w generator by pulsar. Have you seen it or can you shed some light on it. I came across one with a nice price tag and I'm interested . The mode number is TGD40iS. Please let me know what you think. Thanks in advance
They tossed truetimber camo on it and jacked up the price. Kinda funny as it is a white label of a white labeled product. The TGD40IS is the same as the vastly less expensive PGD40ISCO. The best version of these 3 is the GD400BN which adds dual fuel capability and still a ton less than the camo variant :)
No, they were much larger. Closest line to that size was propane. For grease, you can use a general lithium grease, moly or calcium sulphonate (basically any grease but silicone based). Only objective is keeping the paper gasket from sticking.
@@MR_Garage Sorry for the noob questions, do you apply the thin layer on both sides of the gasket when possible? I used Mobil 1 full Synthetic the red color one for wheel bearings. I could not find on mobil website if it contained silicone. could you help with his question? Also I took apart my GN400 to check the valve clearance after watching your videos. I'm not scared to make mistakes if it means i learn form my errors. I slightly tore the gasket when i opened the valve cover ( I already had 9ish hours). I didn't know how much torque to apply to the valve cover bolts. I was concerned i would need a new gasket, I made the bolts snug and ran the engine. I sprayed some soapy water and i noticed bubbles coming from the corner wear the gasket tore. This is my back up, back up Gen so i'm not in a rush to order the gasket. Long winded sorry. Is air / compression bad if a little is leaking trough the valve gasket? I'm assuming yes and long term it will cause damage or speed up wear and tear or the engine will not run at optimal levels? i'm waiting for Pulsar with the torque specs for the valve cover botls, can i assume good & tight or around 8-10 lbs?
I got a reply from Pulsar. They also do not know what the clamps are for, possibly for another market outside the USA. According to Rick J Valve cover is * 6Nm which is 4.425 Ft lbs.
How long do you run the engine on break in oil..? Sorry, it looks like you ran an hour before 1st oil change. Is that just for small engines or would you also do that for a car engine?
For small engines like this without a filter, I do the first change at 1 hour. Depending on how it looks, I may do the next at 4-5 hours. With a new car, I have always changed oil at the first 1K miles and then moved to normal intervals after that.
I have not checked into the quick connects as I rather have threaded fittings so I can bleed the line off easily before 1st start. I will try to determine the fitting size.
It was mostly resolved with properly setting valve lash which was way too tight. Also, the iridium spark plug and more break in time helped a ton. Mostly the value lash though. Still a little bit of a lope and sound similar to having a big cam in a car. Add any load, even 5% (raised idle) and it is smooth as silk. Makes me wonder if just a little more idle RPM dialed in would be the ticket on this gen. Not sure how to do it since it is electronically controlled. I will investigate this.
So, wish one are you going to keep? Are the engines equal displacement? I want to take advantage of BF deals. Which one would you buy, need to decide ASAP.
Pulsar never resolved the issues with this GX. Ended up sending it back. Compact size and super low weight are most important for me. GD is being kept. The GX has 4cc larger engine. 145cc vs 149cc.
Np! I just had a sample size of one. Waiting to hear feedback from others who bought it. I do know, the GD series is a little tank. Love it like I wanted to love the GX series!
@@MR_Garage based on your recommendation I ordered the GD at 5:01am and at 8:01am they said it was shipped AND the carrier had it already. Since when does UPS pick up orders at 8am? Don't know about yours, but in this case the seller is Autocare Depot who also fulfilled the order in CA. In addition to a BF discount, I use an AZ CC to get 5% cashback. Based on my research of various models available and pricing, I wasn't able to find a better deal. Thanks! BTW, I had bought the Westinghouse IQ2500 a year ago, never used it, and it was stolen from my property over in Concho. I bought that one at Sams Club on a sale. This one cost very little more, has 1000 more watts and dual fuel.
Got the generator. Popped the cover off to access the air filter and there were 3 wires/cables blocking access. I didn't go further with it yet to see if they could be rerouted.
Do you feel this one is equal to their other one or slightly less in terms of output, quality, and such? I want to buy 2, but some things you mention on this one concern me.
I have one of the very first of this model. Other users have reported they corrected the issues like the wheel noise and valve lash. I have not heard any negative recently.
@@MR_Garage The wheel axle design has been changed to a nut on the outside end of the axle, no more rattle. I could not find ANY documentation on the pulsar website when researching before my purchase. Not even listed. Maybe the scanned owners manual will help others. I've got 3 hours and counting on the break-in without issue. The last hour I will attempt to run the 13.5 BTU A/C on my RV.
No need for a soft start with a 13.5K BTU. Many 1.8kW rated generators will run a 13.5K without soft start if you do not have other heavy loads like electric hot water turned on or dead batteries / charger converter running. In short, this will run perfectly for you.
It has not. Still waiting on pulsar to call me. Put a case in - no answer. Followed up and they asked for my number. That was Wednesday. Crickets since....
Your video had great info and I appreciate it. The customer service was the only thing holding me back from purchase. I will wait for a little while and see what happens. Thanks for the reply, you have a great channel. MC@@MR_Garage
The display is generally linked to the inverter and not a separate item with CT to read. Has to be compatible with fuel sender, calibrated to output load and such.
Right - I should have done it anyways. Was tired - long day! BUT here is the deal. The GD gen was 67.4dB at 100% output for the state park test. With the GD and GX both at 100% output in this test, the new GX is 5.1dB quieter. This would put it at 61.9dB at 50'. Just might pass, and for sure will pass at say 70% load and under. Always best to test though and I will give that a shot when I have time.
@@MR_Garage I just ran the break in, and will change the oil tomorrow. I'm running a 2500w crepe maker, so I want it to run a couple hours before putting on that load. Then the whole thing will sit for 3 months. Should I just wait on the spark plug and oil change since I'm only running it a few hours?
Indeed, for now there is no rush on the plug. Highly recommend a magnetic dip stick during break in. Make sure to drain the carb if storing for 3 months unless running on propane.
On the GD model, I tested it at 1.6lbs of propane at 50% load per hour. I did not test this particular version as I ended up shipping it back due to no response from pulsar support
No arguing there. Just assembled poorly. Hope they work out the kinks. Even if they do, the Heomaito HMT3500iD would be my pick over this one hands down. Better display. Runs so much smoother. amzn.to/3vSV8Wi Or, the other Pulsar, the GD400BN. An incredible value. amzn.to/3xj1YEX
Jump straight to purchase this generator here:
On Amazon
amzn.to/47kXV84
On Ebay
ebay.us/1Yy44l
The two most useful things to do to this generator when you take it out of the box are brought up in this video, change out the spark plug and fix the valve lash clearances. These two things both made a huge difference with my generator, especially when running it on propane. Without these things, it just runs horrible. My thought is maybe you leave the OEM spark plug in there for the first 1 hour of break-in or even 5-hour break-in as some residue ends up on it during the first part of the break-in so you have a slightly cleaner real spark plug in there later. But really the OEM plug is complete garbage, so it is not going to really work after more than an hour or first few hours of use anyway, so you really have to replace it. The problem with the OEM spark plug first really shows up at idle. So rough idle, especially on propane, that OEM spark plug is starting to fail already. It needs to go.
In other words, the order of break-in for this generator I think probably should be:
1. Before starting the generator, take the valve cover off and stuff your feeler gauge in there to figure out the valve lash clearances and adjust with a torque wrench. I also used needle nose pliers to carefully adjust the screw.
2. Do the break in. Mr Garage prefers to change the oil at the 1-hour mark. The manual talks about a 5-hour break-in for this generator. Certainly don't load up the generator too much before the 5-hour mark however you go about it. Certainly don't go above 5 hours without changing the oil in this generator when breaking it in. When you first change the oil, be it the 1-hour or 5-hour mark, change out the OEM spark plug for a real one like the NTK one linked by Mr Garage. I actually had a hard time getting this particular plug at any of the major auto-parts stores in my area, so ended up with a Champion plug. It is still working far better than the OEM plug was at the time I removed it. I have to wonder if some of the residue on it after the first part of the break-in negatively affected the performance of the plug, granted these Chinese plugs are notoriously bad. Just figure if it can make it upwards to a few hours before crapping out, use it for those few hours so it is the plug that gets the residue from break-in as well so the next plug stays cleaner and thus works better. So both the supplied oil and the supplied spark plug need to go after break-in.
After adding these things to the initial setup and break-in instructions, this generator should work a lot better than it would otherwise.
Somethingthing to add for propane is it seems to work better if you start on choke for the first pull or two, then switch to run. I think it pulls in the propane on choke and then run mode gets the propane to ignite. It is just you don't get both at the same time when on propane. This is of course after doing the manual purge of the fuel line as shown in this video as there is no purge valve on this setup. This is a bit of a stripped down, you know what you are doing kind of generator. But if you know what you are doing, you can get this started up pretty quick.
For the wheel chatter and cotter pin, a pro-tip is to put the cotter pins in rotated sideways as in the bumpy part faces inward towards the middle of the generator, in other words is in a flat orientation. The shaft is a lot thicker than it is long where the pin hole is. Once the cotter pin is in place, you just rotate it down and the wheel shaft is locked in place. Easy peasy. Don't make it harder than you have to.
Appreciate your review-- I took the chance on it as I could pick it up for $480 free shipping no sales tax.
I immediately bought the different spark plug and magnetic dipstick you recommended.
I believe they modified the generator since your review for several reasons:
>adjusted the valve clearance and it was very close already to specs and if anything too loose
>wheel assembly is much different than yours and wheels are extremely hard to remove (could never get it) and designed very different. But fortunately this seems to have resolved the rattle as mine were silent on startup
All in all I feel the quirks with this have been solved enough for me to stick with it 😀
I may revisit this generator down the road. It is very popular. Verify the changes and corrections made.
Thanks for the absolutely awesome review and teardown of this generator! I have the gd400bn and purchased this to parallel with it for dual ac travel trailer. I can report that the wheel carriage setup is different in that there is a molded axle with a lock nut to secure the wheels which has no vibration. I removed the wheels and handle (which rattled a little) since I won't use those which subtracted 1.5 lbs off the weight. My scale has the gd version at 50lbs with oil and the gx version at 57.5lbs without wheels/handle. My manufacture date says 12/23 (even though I purchased in in July). The valve clearance is in spec from the factory and it runs great. Seems like they have worked those kinks out (wheels and valve clearance) and everything else is the same (spade connected to bullet is still there). So far so good on this generator and the price is the same as the gd400bn at this point. Keep up the good work sir!
I haven’t watched the full video yet but thank you for being the first to it review it with a deep dive into it. I also have the other version, I’ve been eyeing this generator for 2 weeks but like you there in NO info on it. It’s not even on the pulsar website. I wanted to know what the difference was between this in the GD400BN. I also bought the upgraded spark plug and meter for the GD model thanks to your review.
I watched the whole video, I love how detail your review is.
3 year warranty vs 1 year on the GD. The GX is about 10lbs heavier but has wheels and a handle (wheels rattle and it’s a easy fix). Uses a 13/16 hex spark plug vs 5/8, twice the size has tank, a lot more options like co detect, a digital meter, upgraded AC plugs, a different manufacturer but it’s the first version and may have a few bugs. I say this because clearly you had more then 1 issue with the meter and the valve clearance. Maybe build quality will improve in the next few months. The GX with your testing seems to be slightly less quiet. I want to have two generators 1 to run on propane only and store for emergencies, the other to use frequently around the property with gas to weld. I was looking into 2200w PG2200BiS as a option for car camping on propane before I bought the GD. The PG is gone up in value from 420 to 699 on Amazon. The GD offers more power, about the same weight and size but now less.
The GX seems to be on the introduction pricing because it’s cheaper then the GD. If there’s another 20 bucks or so savings near Black Friday I will order the GX to use around the house and store the GD for emergencies.
My GD400BN has the three year warranty (1 year parts and labor and 2 years parts) (Maybe they have just started offering that?). It is printed on the box that it has the three year warranty. I even contacted Pulsar to confirm before I purchased and they told me the website is incorrect.
@@lonniesykes1818 That's good to hear because the website 100% says 1 year. I know own 3 pulsar Gens and the GD is the only one that stated 1 year on the website. I bought the extended warranty so i hope i never have to use it. Make sure you get the "three year warranty (1 year parts and labor and 2 years parts)" in writings from them.
Amazon is currently 560, eBay is currently 550, and AliExpress is currently under 500. All three may be shipping from the same warehouse.
Torn down, adjusted valve clearances, put thin rubber washers on wheel axles, put back together and fired up on propane, wow, what a huge difference! I let it warm up and turned the on/off a little closer to the choke side, just a bit, not much and this generator purrs great, no wheel rattle and a lot smoother running at idle or eco off, thanks for the tips! I have the GD400 also, I do believe the GX400 version is a little quieter also.
Thanks for the great videos! After watching both reviews I went with the GX400 vice the GD400. I'll also be changing out the oil in my other Generators with the Rotella and the spark plugs to iridium. Weird thing is that with the increased features, this is cheaper on Amazon than the GD (Same price with the GD on sale). I really like the increased power and smaller size. My 2800 Champion was huge compared to these and much heavier.
It runs best on propane. Love it
Would like a video on valve adjustment
Been shopping these 3kw 150cc generators to replace the broken 20 year old generac my new to me rv left the factory with. A-ipower also sells a version of this model. Genmax has some interesting variants on these they have one with electric start, one about to go on sale with fuel injection instead of a carb and they have an open frame version designed to feed from external fuel tanks. Theirs also allow you to series them for 240 volt power.
Edit: The noise different would be enough for me to go with this style unit assuming it fits in my basement storage on my motorhome.
Very Cool. Genmax = Dinking. A-ipower usually uses Senci as a CM but have seen several other models from them too. Loncin + others.
Let me know the model A-ipower that is like this one. Everything on their site currently looks to be Senci.
Sorry I've looked at too many of these and misremembered. I think I was thinking of the GXS4300iD because it's got a similar feature set with the display, wheels and telescoping handle but it's clearly a different model.
They all start to look the same :)
Amperage problem "resolved" Time stamp 4:25. Happy new years MR Garage. I now own both the GX and the GD. So the LCD shows Voltage, load/wattage usage as squares on the very top LT to right. The volts, Hertz, "A" I'm assuming is for approximant run time while using Gas only? I have confirmed this many times before writing this. I think "A" works hand and hand with the gasoline fuel gauge and load/watts being used. The "A" value changes up or down based on your load and how much fuel its reading to approximate how long the Gene will run at it's current load with the remaining gas in the tank. I'm 99.999% sure of this. If i add more fuel or change the load, the vale instantly changes. More fuel and less load a higher value is displayed, low fuel and a large load the value decreases. You were running the Gene on propane and the fuel gauge was zero, I think this is why the "A" value was not displaying. Cheers and I hope this helps everyone in the future.
Also I think "S" is for current run time and reset when the engine turns off and "C" for cumulative run time. PS Pulsar higher MR Garage as a consultant for your advertising and manual documentation.
PS: PS: The wheels and the carry handle both make a ratting noise. After i fixed the wheels (thanks to you) I noticed the handle shakes, I have to pull it out a bit to lessen the noise.
Good info on the A portion. I incorrectly assumed amperage. Would be nice if their documentation stated the info properly! I ended up returning the GX and kept the GD which has been awesome. No regrets so far. Still wanting more features so I have a Heomaito HMT3500iD dual fuel on the way. Looks like a good option between the GD and GX. Will review in the next week.
Heomaito features:
- Little over 1.5G fuel capacity, +.5 over the GD
- No pull out handle or wheels, built more like the GD (did not want those as an option myself)
- Very nice digital display with proper readout
- Spec at 50lbs, virtually same as the GD
- Has a 149cc engine like the GX, unsure if the same assembly
- True 20A plug where the GD has a 15A they claim is 20A
Pretty excited about trying it out! Sensi looks to be the CM but cannot confirm yet.
awesome video , thanks , I have the older model , added a hour meter/engine temp gauge and love it
Nice! Do you mean the GD400BN? It is not really older or being replaced, just a different model (still new). The GD is a great generator.
yes , the GD model , I do feel I have more confidence in it too being manufactured by Dinking compared to GX made by unknown lol
which temp gauge did you use? I like the look of the GX, I love the wheels and updated plugs etc. I took photos of both model cylinder heads, the GD has very rough edges while the GX cylinder head looks how cylinder heads should be, nice and smooth. I think both are great, both are budget generators for the power and both need a little work to get them tip top.
a tip I learned is you should open the valve on the LP tank slowly so the regulator in the hose line doesn't close off the flow of gas thus limiting the supply. Might try that to see if it fixes you rough idle.
Hello, That does apply to BBQ regulators. I have yet to come across a regulator for a generator that will lock out propane flow in the same way. You can actually open the tank with these regulators / hose unhooked and open as fast as you like, propane will flow at the rate intended by the regulator. If you find any that will lock you out, let me know!
Received my GX400BN yesterday, hooked up to propane and started in 2nd pull. Engine was pretty cold, and ran a little rough at idle then sounded better after warm up. Wheel rattle is there, I’ll fix that, changed oil after break in and put a load on it, sounded much better with load.
Yeah, they run real nice under load. And idle does get way better over time.
@@MR_Garage As you have had more time with this generator and have adjusted the valve lashings, how much do you attribute the rough idle of this generator to the valve lashings versus this generator needs more time to "break-in" more fully or what have you? I have found on gasoline while not completely smooth, it wasn't too terrible, but on propane shortly after, it is really bad. I am considering doing your advice on adjusting the valve lashings, but also want to get a better lay of the land of if it may be worth keeping this generator or returning it while it is still in the 30 day window to Amazon.
The valve lash correction did the most for it. After that, it did get smoother over time. I did end up returning it. Was not happy overall with the the GX and did not need the extra fuel capacity. The GD won me over as I value a more compact design and do not run off gas. To each their own though!
@@MR_Garage For running on propane as I was getting better results with gasoline, I checked the valve lash clearances and came up with the intake was too tight to measure and the exhaust came in at 0.13mm. I put these into spec via the manual. When I ran it, at first I thought maybe it is doing better, maybe I got it as I thought it immediately got out of hand before, but it slowly became more and more imbalanced over time between surging and sputtering that it eventually stalled after a few minutes.
Take it off of ECO mode and it sounds fairly smooth, just a little bit rough at first. Run it for a bit with some load on it and it sounds really good. I would say it sounds even better than it did when I first ran it on gasoline. I could have sworn when I first ran it on gasoline, I could hear it periodically miss / skip. Now with propane I could see a little bit of bobble on the generator, but couldn't hear it. Not a beet missed. So I think this work helped, but is certainly short of fixing the problem. I suppose I am still running the stock spark plug, but I did measure it while I had the generator apart and it was within spec.
I also drained the float bowl as I had used gasoline before and tightened up the wheels using washers.. I still hear a little bit of raddle, so maybe I didn't get it quite right.
@@MR_Garage I didn't immediately follow your advice to change the spark plug as I thought it would at least last long enough to break in the generator and run it for a little bit. No, it was too much of a counterfeit piece of junk for this. The replacement spark plug I ended up getting was a Champion as I couldn't find the one you recommended at any of the local auto parts stores. It came with 0 gap, so I gapped it to the minimum based on the Pulsar manual. This turned out to be a key piece to getting this generator to run a whole lot better. Still wouldn't call it buttery smooth, but it certainly rocks around less and is a whole lot smoother in general above and beyond the extra smoothness gained by fixing the valve lash clearances.
Another way to put it is you got your stuff right in making this generator run a whole lot better than it does out of the box. I just didn't fully appreciate how bad the spark plug deal was. Even when I looked at the spark plug, it didn't look bad. It just worked like crap in the engine anyway.
Thank you this was helpful. I am leaning to the smaller GR. Thanks agian.
Great deep dive and walkthrough. Thankyou for this. Question, if planning to use this generator on propane to power a window ac unit and small refrigerator during power outages, how is it grounded? What is it's reference to ground? Should I put in a ground rod somewhere and tie it into the grounds in a junction box prior to the power coming in the house? Thanks again. This was very helpful.
Most will not do it, but the proper way is to use the ground lug on the panel of the generator and connect to a grounding rod. If you only drag the generator out during outages, just use a jumper cable to the lug and connect to the grounding rod quickly and easily. Or, you can use a wingnut on the grounding lug of the generator and use an eyelet to 12-14awg wire... the wire would be permanently attached to the rod.
I really like Pulsar but I agree they do themselves no favors with their website and marketing! I'd be interested in hearing your thoughts on their new GD10KBN, it's apparently their first dual fuel inverter generator.
Really appreciate your in depth, no wasting my time with unboxing footage. Can't find this answer, not gotten a response from Pulsar yet. I was set to buy the GD400BN. Was hoping for DC outlets to run cooling fan on hurricane box. Then see this video on the GX400BN. Also with display great! Here is my question; the GX400BN is not on Pulsar's website anywhere. All over Amazon and Walmart and other places. Was trying to download a manual to clean out Amazon/Walmart mistakes in listings. Do you have any update as to why the GX400BN is not on Pulsar's website? Thanks
Np! Pulsar has a LOT of generators not on their site. In short, their webmaster is not so hot at their job.
It’s there a way you can review their new Pulsar PG5000BiSRCO Dual Fuel 30A RV Ready Portable Inverter Generator with Remote Start? It’s 5000 watts peak and the same size as the one you reviewed in this video, and if so. It would be greatly appreciated.
I do not have it on my list to review but will consider it (have been watching it for a while). Looks to be a nice unit but very heavy in comparison to this unit but also more powerful. Remote start accounts for a lot of that weight.
you do video adj valves gd400gn seems two ways. Champion doing different
Bravo, well done. My travel trailer has two quick disconnects on the propane line that I use for my flat top and BBQ. If I were to get just a flexible gas line without a regulator with a male quick release on one end, would this generator work using my trailers onboard regulator? Thanks for your time.
The regulator that comes with the generator is unique to the motor size and carb of the generator. If you ditch the regulator and go straight, there is no guarantee what air fuel ratio you will end up with. A lot of guys do this hack and it may work, start and run but longevity of the motor comes into question.
Better to split off the tank pre-regulator and attach the line for the generator directly. Or, use the 2nd propane tank on the trailer (if equipped) specifically for the generator.
Facepalm… I’m literally breaking in the other model you reviewed. Was delivered 6 days ago and just got the last of the extras you recommended. 10 min into break in and see this… dang it! But anyway, thanks for making these awesome vids!
No need to face palm - it is up to 18lbs lighter and all my issues are still not resolved with the new GX series. Looks like it is going back. I may order another just to see if the one I got was just a bad sample... From the rough idle issues, wheel rattle, bad factory valve lash adjustment to the non-working amperage meter. Yeah.... The original GD I reviewed rocked out of the box!
@@MR_Garage You know what I think you’re right. During and after break in it seems super solid.
Initial fill with 14oz Pulsar 10w30 and 1oz Lucas after finagling about a tsp of Lucas into the combustion chamber and tilting the gen at different angles. Pulled cord gently 10 times. Used your trick with the propane connection and it started in about 5 pulls. Ran at idle for 30min switching “low idle” on and off then changed the oil. Relatively few metal bits stuck to the mag dipstick you recommended.
Filled with 14oz Rotella t4 10w30 and 1oz Lucas and ran it with factory plug for an hr varying from 400w to 900w loads and hitting 1100w a cpl times.
Changed oil and found even fewer metal bits. Filled again with t4/Lucas combo and swapped to the iridium plug you recommended and it’s been charging our van flawlessly for almost an hour pushing 1800w. Far smoother with the iridium NGK.
It’s awesome you use t6 as I generally keep gallons of 15w40 and 5w40 around for our f550 and Van. Going to switch over to t6 at about 10hrs and feel like the little gen will be taken care of after that.
I really appreciate these in depth reviews and recommendations. I know it takes a good amount of time to organize and edit these videos. Thank you!!
did you check your valve clearance@@broncman67
Recently bought the smaller generator. The engine runs very smoothly, but it overloads and shuts down on gas when I start my 13,500 but RV air conditioner . On propane, it has no problem even though it's supposed to output less power on propane. Called the company warranty number and told them what was happening and the girl called me back and asked me what kind of gas I was using. Told her non ethanol mid grade I just bought. She said it was designed to run on cheaper regular gas with ethanol. Thought that was incorrect, so I put regular gas with ethanol. It does same thing. According to Google, a 13,500 btu RV air conditioner takes 3,750 watts for start up well within the range for this generator. Love the generator but disappointed that it won't start my rv 13,500 air conditioner. If u have any suggestions about the problem please advise . I'm hoping not having to buy a soft start kit for the air conditioner. Thanks.
So the other model GD400BN is having issues on gas. Very interesting. And yes, she had no clue what she was talking about if she thought a mid grade fuel would be the problem. Ethanol free is even better power wise so the slight bump in octane would have zero effect. I have not tried a surge type load on gas yet vs propane for that unit. Will have to add that to my list and see if I can replicate it. How is your generator running on gas? How does the plug look? Lean or rich? Wonder if the bog on gas is in the jetting.
Adding, does it still bog on gas with eco switch off? What was the altitude it was being run at?
It runs perfect and starts up first time. I also have Honda 2200i that takes several pulls to start. The generator is 3 weeks old and only have run it for 1 or two hours just enough to see how it performs. It runs smoother than my Honda I am impressed with the Pulsar 4000. I bought the Pulsar due to the added watts over the Honda and side by side Pulsar looks to be the same size as the Honda. Also like the sound of the Pulsar over the Honda it has a lower pitch. I could send it back but it runs so good and powers all my other appliances including the microwave with no problem. I just don't get why on gas it won't increase RPM quick enough to handle that ac spike. I bought it after watching your video. I would appreciate u testing yours on a spike vs propane and the gasoline. Thanks for your prompt reply.
@@MR_Garage It doesn't matter if the eco mode is on or off the red overload light comes the second I turn on the ac. My altitude is about 1000 feet msl.
Most of the ones I saw for sale today are labeled as GD400BN. But they look completely different. They don't have an LCD screen.
There are two models. I have videos on the GD series as well. This is the GX version.
Do you know if this GD400BN can be parallel linked with a GX400BN?
yes
Do you have a video on adjusting the valves.
I do! But for another generator. Exactly the same practice. Make sure it is on a compression stroke, get the motor to TDC and adjust. That simple! ua-cam.com/video/F3g7STq5X3M/v-deo.html
Great video, and I agree that Pulsar's marketing is terrible and confusing. Their website is terrible. I was trying to learn more about the smaller GD400BN after watching your videos, and I don't even see it listed, so I was thinking it's an older model. But it seems to be a newer model... And what's even more confusing, is that some photos on websites show the GD400BN with a side decal that states 2800W running on Propane, while others show a decal with 3000 Propane. Same looking unit. Weird, right? And while price shopping for the GD400BN, they seem to be hard to find actually. Walmart shows it for $599. Amazon has the GD400BN but with the 2800 rated watts on propane photo, yet in the description it states 3000W. But Walmart seems to show the one with the 3000W rated label... odd. It's very confusing. It also seems odd why Pulsar is selling/marketing 2 units that are made by 2 completely different manufacturers yet have almost identical specs with output, and different features. The whole thing is odd.
For the GD400BN, There was the photo shoot before launch and errors in the artwork of their first samples it seems. Even a misspelling on the graphics of the front panel. This was corrected and the 3000W label is what you get on current production units. That is fine as I tested it well past 3000W on propane. They need to update their photo - good catch! The GD400BN is on their website under G series generators.
The new GX is not there yet. They could just be testing a new CM or they listened to customer wants for a dual fuel. This unit has enough added features, I can see it being an option along side the GD. The price point is crazy low too. I also see the pro's to having a 10lb lighter generator (nearly 18lbs if both gas tanks are full) and a more compact package. Both in the lineup kinda make sense.
Their PM team is rather interesting to say the least!
Good stuff thanks!
Glad you liked it!
leaning bd size did you change valves on both units
Roughly how long with the GX run on a 20lb propane bottle?
Hi Mr garage. Really love your detailed videos. Very informative. On the topic of pulsar 3200w generator. I came across one truetimber 3200w generator by pulsar. Have you seen it or can you shed some light on it. I came across one with a nice price tag and I'm interested . The mode number is TGD40iS. Please let me know what you think. Thanks in advance
They tossed truetimber camo on it and jacked up the price. Kinda funny as it is a white label of a white labeled product. The TGD40IS is the same as the vastly less expensive PGD40ISCO. The best version of these 3 is the GD400BN which adds dual fuel capability and still a ton less than the camo variant :)
Will you re-check the valve clearance after the breakin, I’m curious to see what u get?
I send this generator back long ago. The original version had too many issues. I hear they are quite decent these days after kinks were worked out.
Did the extra hose clamps seem to be the same size for the fuel filters?
What grease do you use for the value gasket?
No, they were much larger. Closest line to that size was propane. For grease, you can use a general lithium grease, moly or calcium sulphonate (basically any grease but silicone based). Only objective is keeping the paper gasket from sticking.
@@MR_Garage Sorry for the noob questions, do you apply the thin layer on both sides of the gasket when possible? I used Mobil 1 full Synthetic the red color one for wheel bearings. I could not find on mobil website if it contained silicone. could you help with his question? Also I took apart my GN400 to check the valve clearance after watching your videos. I'm not scared to make mistakes if it means i learn form my errors. I slightly tore the gasket when i opened the valve cover ( I already had 9ish hours). I didn't know how much torque to apply to the valve cover bolts. I was concerned i would need a new gasket, I made the bolts snug and ran the engine. I sprayed some soapy water and i noticed bubbles coming from the corner wear the gasket tore. This is my back up, back up Gen so i'm not in a rush to order the gasket. Long winded sorry.
Is air / compression bad if a little is leaking trough the valve gasket? I'm assuming yes and long term it will cause damage or speed up wear and tear or the engine will not run at optimal levels? i'm waiting for Pulsar with the torque specs for the valve cover botls, can i assume good & tight or around 8-10 lbs?
I got a reply from Pulsar. They also do not know what the clamps are for, possibly for another market outside the USA. According to Rick J Valve cover is * 6Nm which is 4.425 Ft lbs.
Would the dipstick fit a Ryobi 2,300W generator? I would try out the wheel washer and see if the wheel noise lowers down. It idles great tho.
Just have to check the length. Most all these small generators use one of two lengths. Same threads.
The video inserts are the best 😂😂😂...great content bro...
😅😅😅 Appreciated!
They claim the same fuel capacity on both on Amazon.
How long do you run the engine on break in oil..? Sorry, it looks like you ran an hour before 1st oil change. Is that just for small engines or would you also do that for a car engine?
For small engines like this without a filter, I do the first change at 1 hour. Depending on how it looks, I may do the next at 4-5 hours. With a new car, I have always changed oil at the first 1K miles and then moved to normal intervals after that.
What size is the propane inlet? I'd like to add a quick connect.
I have not checked into the quick connects as I rather have threaded fittings so I can bleed the line off easily before 1st start. I will try to determine the fitting size.
so how did you fix the poor idle?
It was mostly resolved with properly setting valve lash which was way too tight. Also, the iridium spark plug and more break in time helped a ton. Mostly the value lash though. Still a little bit of a lope and sound similar to having a big cam in a car. Add any load, even 5% (raised idle) and it is smooth as silk. Makes me wonder if just a little more idle RPM dialed in would be the ticket on this gen. Not sure how to do it since it is electronically controlled. I will investigate this.
So, wish one are you going to keep? Are the engines equal displacement? I want to take advantage of BF deals. Which one would you buy, need to decide ASAP.
Pulsar never resolved the issues with this GX. Ended up sending it back. Compact size and super low weight are most important for me. GD is being kept.
The GX has 4cc larger engine. 145cc vs 149cc.
@@MR_Garage thanks for taking time off from your holiday to respond. Some of the GX features are nice, but maybe not enough to overcome the problems.
Np! I just had a sample size of one. Waiting to hear feedback from others who bought it. I do know, the GD series is a little tank. Love it like I wanted to love the GX series!
@@MR_Garage based on your recommendation I ordered the GD at 5:01am and at 8:01am they said it was shipped AND the carrier had it already. Since when does UPS pick up orders at 8am? Don't know about yours, but in this case the seller is Autocare Depot who also fulfilled the order in CA. In addition to a BF discount, I use an AZ CC to get 5% cashback. Based on my research of various models available and pricing, I wasn't able to find a better deal. Thanks! BTW, I had bought the Westinghouse IQ2500 a year ago, never used it, and it was stolen from my property over in Concho. I bought that one at Sams Club on a sale. This one cost very little more, has 1000 more watts and dual fuel.
Got the generator. Popped the cover off to access the air filter and there were 3 wires/cables blocking access. I didn't go further with it yet to see if they could be rerouted.
Do you feel this one is equal to their other one or slightly less in terms of output, quality, and such? I want to buy 2, but some things you mention on this one concern me.
I have one of the very first of this model. Other users have reported they corrected the issues like the wheel noise and valve lash. I have not heard any negative recently.
@@MR_Garage The wheel axle design has been changed to a nut on the outside end of the axle, no more rattle. I could not find ANY documentation on the pulsar website when researching before my purchase. Not even listed. Maybe the scanned owners manual will help others. I've got 3 hours and counting on the break-in without issue. The last hour I will attempt to run the 13.5 BTU A/C on my RV.
Will the GX model run a 13.500 btu a/c unit without a soft start kit?
No need for a soft start with a 13.5K BTU. Many 1.8kW rated generators will run a 13.5K without soft start if you do not have other heavy loads like electric hot water turned on or dead batteries / charger converter running. In short, this will run perfectly for you.
Can i weld with this generator?
Did you get the amp meter issue resolved? Thanks MC
It has not. Still waiting on pulsar to call me. Put a case in - no answer. Followed up and they asked for my number. That was Wednesday. Crickets since....
Your video had great info and I appreciate it. The customer service was the only thing holding me back from purchase. I will wait for a little while and see what happens. Thanks for the reply, you have a great channel. MC@@MR_Garage
how does digital readout plug in. Found few could be installed gd400
The display is generally linked to the inverter and not a separate item with CT to read. Has to be compatible with fuel sender, calibrated to output load and such.
What is the product name for the digital display box that is between the generator and your loads?
Hello,
I built that up from parts. Parts list:
Meter: amzn.to/3VvpQ27
Enclosure: amzn.to/3vsvrvF
Pre-made cable: amzn.to/3IQjClX
Any chance of doing the state park noise test? Just curious how it will do at 50ft. Thanks
Right - I should have done it anyways. Was tired - long day! BUT here is the deal. The GD gen was 67.4dB at 100% output for the state park test. With the GD and GX both at 100% output in this test, the new GX is 5.1dB quieter. This would put it at 61.9dB at 50'. Just might pass, and for sure will pass at say 70% load and under. Always best to test though and I will give that a shot when I have time.
Thanks!!
Magnetic dip stick during break in is what i woud of done.
Agreed 100% - I always do.
How many time do I need to change the oil? Or what do you recommend?
First change at 1 hour, 2nd change just after a few hours, no more than 5
@@MR_Garage I just ran the break in, and will change the oil tomorrow. I'm running a 2500w crepe maker, so I want it to run a couple hours before putting on that load. Then the whole thing will sit for 3 months. Should I just wait on the spark plug and oil change since I'm only running it a few hours?
Indeed, for now there is no rush on the plug. Highly recommend a magnetic dip stick during break in. Make sure to drain the carb if storing for 3 months unless running on propane.
@@MR_Garage Thank you!
Keep in mind that running on propane will definitely DECREASE engine life.
That is what is know, but so far, real world, I have never killed a generator running on propane. No burnt valve issues or egt issues.
did you adj on compression stroke? Spin motor over wiggle see play if cyl top thats it. If not on compression stroke be tight and not time adj
Indeed, done on compression stroke.
I cant figure out for the life of me how much propane these consume at a half load.
On the GD model, I tested it at 1.6lbs of propane at 50% load per hour. I did not test this particular version as I ended up shipping it back due to no response from pulsar support
@@MR_Garagewow. 1.6lbs per hour? So with a 40lb propane tank that’s only 25 hours.
A 40lb propane tank holds around 20lbs of propane tops. So you would be looking at around 12.5 hours best case at 50% load.
@@MR_Garageis that with AC on (13500btu)
I wanted this to power my 20 fr travel trailer AC - mainly just for AC since I live here in the Texas heat. Will it allow my AC to run for 24hrs
No electric start. Bummer
It will start on the first pull, though, in run mode.
Sounds like a real POS, having to do all that work on it brand new .
No arguing there. Just assembled poorly. Hope they work out the kinks. Even if they do, the Heomaito HMT3500iD would be my pick over this one hands down. Better display. Runs so much smoother. amzn.to/3vSV8Wi
Or, the other Pulsar, the GD400BN. An incredible value. amzn.to/3xj1YEX