Hi. Do you have a video about vinyl wrapping cabinets with the dips and recessed areas like you mentioned timed at the end of your video? Also do you have a video about vinyl wrapping MDF cabinets?
No, we haven't had the opportunity to do those kinds since we avoid them due to the additional complexity (and associated cost). For those, as I mentioned in my video, if you do want to do them, you would have to do multiple pieces. For example, in a shaker style cabinet door, you would wrap the flat bottom of the recessed area, then each of the four "edges" going in, as well as the main face of the door. It is doable, but very time consuming as compared to flat paneled cabinets.
Important to make sure surface is clean and dry, right? Can you gently take a heat gun for French panels so that the vinyl fits in nicely ? Similar to vinyl wrapping a car?
Yes, the surface you apply the vinyl to should be clean and dry. As far as applying to french panels, you'd have to do multiple pieces / inlays. Architectural vinyl is much more rigid than automotive vinyl with a very strong vinyl memory. Heat will soften architectural vinyl, after which you can then stretch and manipulate it more, but it will pull back really hard over time. At least, that's my experience using 3M DiNoc and VVivid architectural vinyls.
Thanks for watching. For large amounts of DiNoc, the vinyl used in the video, you have to go through an authorized distributor. You can get some limited stock through retailers like metrorestyling and fellers though.
I have an vent tool (i.e. a poker) to make a tiny hole to allow air to escape. If you have a needle, that works just as well to poke a hole. A bit of heat may help the air vent out faster, as well as shrink the vinyl a bit so when you work the bubble away it won't wrinkle.
Generally, yes. Usually when I use primer (3M Primer 94 for 3M products) it's on edges or areas that look like they may be prone to fail. I usually don't primer main surface areas.
Unlikely... vinyl is like paint. It sticks best to well prepared, smooth surfaces. Even then, the surface should ideally be "high surface energy, which includes being non-porous and generally, without texture. So even if a surface is smooth, the vinyl may not stick well. For example, unfinished (but smooth) MDF board, which is flat and smooth, but extremely porous. The vinyl will not stick to that type of surface very well, if at all.
I probably would sand it. The vinyl sticks best to smooth, non-porous, non-textured surfaces best. If you have enough to do a test, maybe give that a try first to determine if sanding would be better of if a good cleaning would be fine.
You could try to patch it, if the pattern works (like a wood grain). If it's not patterned where a patch could blend in, you may have to replace the entire panel, unfortunately.
Yes! Actually, vinyl wrap generally sticks better to very smooth, glossy surfaces since those substrates tend to be high "surface energy." The exception would be if the surface was gloss due to some sort of slick coating, like car wax or ceramic coating.
Hi, sorry for the late reply. Based on your comment, I think you might be getting an air channel at the edges where you would wrap over the sides of the drawer face. If that's the case, as you lay the vinyl down to the edge where you would wrap over, make sure you really smooth the vinyl down very well right up to the edge, then with multiple passes over the edge, smooth the vinyl over the edge, and then when the vinyl lays down on the flat side again, make sure it's smooth and laid down well just past the edge of the "corner" you just laid over. That way there are no air channels on either side of the corner. Hopefully that made sense.
Not a bad idea, if nothing else it's added insurance. But DiNoc is so rigid and according to 3M "dimensionally stable" that it doesn't shrink. But, keep in mind DiNoc is an interior application only vinyl, used generally in climate controlled conditions. So the chances of it shrinking, if it would, are likely very slim.
It's also quicker with the heat gun to just run along the edge quickly with heat before rolling along it with your thumb or fingers.it will conform easier and will get better adhesive than with a purely cold press
It's 3M Di-Noc architectural vinyl. You can get some at Fellers -- www.fellers.com/fellers-shopping/cat/architectural-films/sub/architectural-films/set/3m-di-noc-architectural-films
For the first part of your question concerning how to remove the wrap, typically you would use a little bit of heat like from a heat gun and then essentially just warm up the vinyl and peel it away as best you can. Note that architectural vinyl is intended to be permanent, so it may be a bit difficult and it might leave glue residue. For the second part of your question, will it damage under the surface, it really depends on the surface the vinyl was applied to. If the surface was in good condition and undamaged to begin with, it will probably be OK. However if the surface the film was applied to it was already compromised in someway, the vinyl may take some of the substrate with it as you remove it from the surface.
Yeah, sometimes the end result may not look as good as the envisioned result LOL! I think it looked better in the end, if nothing else, to cover up the very "worn" look of the surfaces covered.
Complement you on that diy you’re very dedicated at talking to your audience wow
Thanks! And thank you for watching!
I LOVE IT!!!! ATOTALLY AWSOME UPGRADE AND A TOTALLYA WSOME VIDEO. THANKS FOR SHARING!!!
Thanks, and thank you for watching! Sorry for the late reply.
Hi. Do you have a video about vinyl wrapping cabinets with the dips and recessed areas like you mentioned timed at the end of your video? Also do you have a video about vinyl wrapping MDF cabinets?
No, we haven't had the opportunity to do those kinds since we avoid them due to the additional complexity (and associated cost). For those, as I mentioned in my video, if you do want to do them, you would have to do multiple pieces. For example, in a shaker style cabinet door, you would wrap the flat bottom of the recessed area, then each of the four "edges" going in, as well as the main face of the door. It is doable, but very time consuming as compared to flat paneled cabinets.
That's awesome! Probably way cheaper than full cabinet replacement
Great tutorial wondering if you can add spray adhesive and a light sand for a stronger bond?
Thanks and thanks for watching. To your question, yes, but typically 3M would have you use their Primer 94 adhesion promoter for a stronger adhesion.
to remove pick edges you can use the a razor blade on the edge aswell used it many a time when edge banding cabinets
Thank you and thanks for watching. Sorry for the late reply. Yes, good tip as well if you have a razor available.
Important to make sure surface is clean and dry, right?
Can you gently take a heat gun for French panels so that the vinyl fits in nicely ?
Similar to vinyl wrapping a car?
Yes, the surface you apply the vinyl to should be clean and dry. As far as applying to french panels, you'd have to do multiple pieces / inlays. Architectural vinyl is much more rigid than automotive vinyl with a very strong vinyl memory. Heat will soften architectural vinyl, after which you can then stretch and manipulate it more, but it will pull back really hard over time. At least, that's my experience using 3M DiNoc and VVivid architectural vinyls.
Great video, I've look for the product but only find window covering retailers. Where might I find a retailer that sells the cabinet vinyl?
Thanks for watching. For large amounts of DiNoc, the vinyl used in the video, you have to go through an authorized distributor. You can get some limited stock through retailers like metrorestyling and fellers though.
How do you fix a bubble that is in the middle of the cabinet? It’s almost as if the glue is drying up. Thanks
I have an vent tool (i.e. a poker) to make a tiny hole to allow air to escape. If you have a needle, that works just as well to poke a hole. A bit of heat may help the air vent out faster, as well as shrink the vinyl a bit so when you work the bubble away it won't wrinkle.
Is it recommended to use a primer on the surface before pasting the vinyl for better adhesiveness ?
Generally, yes. Usually when I use primer (3M Primer 94 for 3M products) it's on edges or areas that look like they may be prone to fail. I usually don't primer main surface areas.
Very nice
Thank you and thanks for watching!
would that work on coarse oak cupboard doors without any prep?
Unlikely... vinyl is like paint. It sticks best to well prepared, smooth surfaces. Even then, the surface should ideally be "high surface energy, which includes being non-porous and generally, without texture. So even if a surface is smooth, the vinyl may not stick well. For example, unfinished (but smooth) MDF board, which is flat and smooth, but extremely porous. The vinyl will not stick to that type of surface very well, if at all.
Thank you. I thought so.
My cabinet door has a slight texture from paint... should I sand it down?
Or would just cleaning the surface be enough?
I probably would sand it. The vinyl sticks best to smooth, non-porous, non-textured surfaces best. If you have enough to do a test, maybe give that a try first to determine if sanding would be better of if a good cleaning would be fine.
@@ColorChangeCustoms Thank you for the advice, I'll give it a try :)
How long will it last?
That can depend on a lot of different factors, but if I recall correctly, 3M specifies an expected 12-year lifespan for vertical application services.
can you do this directly over laminate or vaneer cabinets?
Generally, yes, if the laminate is smooth and in good condition.
Where can I buy it from?
You can try distributor sites like Fellers or Metro Restyling
Did you wrap the back side of the door?
No just the outside face and edges.
I have a scratch in my wrap on cupboard door how to repair just a small scratch 2 to 3cm in length couple of mm wide
You could try to patch it, if the pattern works (like a wood grain). If it's not patterned where a patch could blend in, you may have to replace the entire panel, unfortunately.
Can you use vinyl wrap on a glossy surface?
Yes! Actually, vinyl wrap generally sticks better to very smooth, glossy surfaces since those substrates tend to be high "surface energy." The exception would be if the surface was gloss due to some sort of slick coating, like car wax or ceramic coating.
I'm doing my cupboards starting with a drawer and got it over smooth but round the edges seems bumpy and like their not adhering well? Any tips please
Hi, sorry for the late reply. Based on your comment, I think you might be getting an air channel at the edges where you would wrap over the sides of the drawer face. If that's the case, as you lay the vinyl down to the edge where you would wrap over, make sure you really smooth the vinyl down very well right up to the edge, then with multiple passes over the edge, smooth the vinyl over the edge, and then when the vinyl lays down on the flat side again, make sure it's smooth and laid down well just past the edge of the "corner" you just laid over. That way there are no air channels on either side of the corner. Hopefully that made sense.
@ColorChangeCustoms ahh thankyou I have my mum coming to help me on Friday so fingers crossed 🤞🏼 we can do it x
can it last long?
Yes, it's designed to be durable. Manufacturer warranty is several years.
Find it best practice to shrink your corners first b3fore any cuts. That way it won't shrink afterwards.
Not a bad idea, if nothing else it's added insurance. But DiNoc is so rigid and according to 3M "dimensionally stable" that it doesn't shrink. But, keep in mind DiNoc is an interior application only vinyl, used generally in climate controlled conditions. So the chances of it shrinking, if it would, are likely very slim.
It's also quicker with the heat gun to just run along the edge quickly with heat before rolling along it with your thumb or fingers.it will conform easier and will get better adhesive than with a purely cold press
Where can I buy this vynil?
It's 3M Di-Noc architectural vinyl. You can get some at Fellers -- www.fellers.com/fellers-shopping/cat/architectural-films/sub/architectural-films/set/3m-di-noc-architectural-films
How do you remove the wrap and will it cause damage to the underneath surface I.E if it was Mdf/chipboard
For the first part of your question concerning how to remove the wrap, typically you would use a little bit of heat like from a heat gun and then essentially just warm up the vinyl and peel it away as best you can. Note that architectural vinyl is intended to be permanent, so it may be a bit difficult and it might leave glue residue. For the second part of your question, will it damage under the surface, it really depends on the surface the vinyl was applied to. If the surface was in good condition and undamaged to begin with, it will probably be OK. However if the surface the film was applied to it was already compromised in someway, the vinyl may take some of the substrate with it as you remove it from the surface.
Super odd question; is the Children's Hospital in Omaha, NE where he's working?
U got some serious forearms, u work out?
Thanks! Yes, I do try to work out to stay in shape :-)
The looked better before hehe
Yeah, sometimes the end result may not look as good as the envisioned result LOL! I think it looked better in the end, if nothing else, to cover up the very "worn" look of the surfaces covered.