Tools used in this video► Hedgehog Featherboards (video sponsor): amzn.to/3b4KcVl Rabbeting router bit: amzn.to/2S0Rxli Good quality, low priced chisels: lddy.no/sqm3 My favorite dado set (use discount code SNWJ10): ridgecarbidetool.com/collections/dado-sets/products/6-x-16t-x-5-hk-x-8-pc-x-4t-chipper-dado-master (We may get a small commission if you use one of the above affiliate links.) Subscribe (free) to Stumpy Nubs Woodworking Journal e-Magazine► www.stumpynubs.com/
I use half lap joints for doors like these, rabbeting out the back for the glass the same way. I find it less fussy than the groove and tenon method shown here. Dial in the dado stack once and make all the cuts.
I like a couple dabs of clear silicone to hold glass in. Keeps it from rattling, and can be cut out if needed. Always scared putting metal clips/nails, yes I've broken special order glass before 🤦
You rock!! Honestly, I'm new to wood working and I have made amazing projects so far that saved me thousands! When you recommended a tool, I never regret getting it! Thank you 😊
Brilliant video...you never fail to teach me masses each time. Clear, concise, highly informative and brilliantly edited for maximum impact. Thank you!
Thank you for the video. I was taught a long time ago that Knowledge not used is Knowledge lost. Knowledge not shared is also Knowledge lost. Sometimes that Knowledge is lost to history to never be recovered again. The man that taught me that was turning 65 years old and soon retiring I did not know at the time he was sick and dying he hid it well. He taught me many things about the building trades in the year I worked with him. I took that knowledge and shared it along the way. I became an engineer and I taught many others to be engineers also. I am retired myself now not by my choice, but by events in my life from the military and civilian life I some times forget things that I once knew and come to UA-cam to refresh that knowledge. So thank all of You that take Your time to put the effort into making videos. I took up woodworking as a young man and left it behind many years ago to pursue my career path. I have taken the passion of woodworking back up as a way to relax and calm my mind. The power tools of my youth have been replaced with better tools with better technologies that make it safer to work. The hand tools of yesteryear have also leapt forward in their uses also. From the computer software, to dust collection to working techniques mft tables and so forth.
I have been installing the glass doors at the kitchen company I work at for almost a decade now. This is exactly how we do it, only difference is when we cut the groove in the back of the door we put them on one of our CNC machines. We use the sticks you talked about, we call them glass stops, it looks really good when it is done.
If you're going to put more than 3 windows together, I'd recommend buying a point gun used for picture frame making. It's like a staple gun, but shoots glazing points into the wood.
Last major project I made before taking database development job was scratch build kitchen, no chipboard, in 1990. No power tools then, made on site, similar doors with pine. Tenons and mortices in old way. Now retired, fixing up house, then - cabinets and kitchen islands as pay for itself hobby. This is well timed reminder
Agreed with others, looking forward to the rest of the series. I mostly avoid glass panels because I don't want folks looking in at my mess. However, there are some projects that just call for them.
good how to video, personally I use the sommerfeld glass panel router bits, this allows me to do everything on the router table in one pass. I am not associated with them but I do like their bits, you should give them a try.
In my case, with a 1/4” groove in 3/4” stock, there was not enough room for the bearing on the rabbeting bit to make small passes. I wound up cutting the rabbet in one pass taking it very slow. No problem, perfect results.
Great video, and also great timing. Was looking into making cabinets with windows. Although I'm taking the cop out route and using polycarbonate acrylic.
Do you have a beginner beginner series? This is too advanced for me right now, but I really want to learn and understand enough to be able to make my own glass uppers and also bookcases.
Thank you so much for this video.. so informative and helpful. by chance did you ever do the part 3 "Choosing and cutting glass" it says coming soon from back in 2021 but don't see it linked to this or part 2
Looking forward to the next video. I made a custom humidor with a 2 inch half circle at top and bottom of the glass panel door. After failing 5 times, I gave up and took it to a glass shop. 🤦🏻♂️
I think it's easier to use the rabbiting bit before you assemble and glue up the door frame. That way you do not need to chisel out the corners. OR just make a single pass on your table to cut that piece out before assembly. Great video as always!!!
You would have to make the rabbets on the stiles stop short of both ends. While it can be done with stop blocks, I don't think that's easier at all. You also need the groove at the ends of the stiles for the rail's tenons to go into. Technically, you don't have to groove the edges of the rails, but you are already set up for it, so why not just groove it all, and you'll have less "meat" to remove with the rabbeting bit later? As a bonus, you will ensure the rabbets on the rails bottom out even with the grooves on the stiles.
First time watching your video. Very detailed. ❤❤. I would love to know what each tool behind you is used for. That's a massive family of tools. Awesome video. ❤❤
Thanks! As for the tools... - This tells about some: ua-cam.com/video/-pFmUsrtKlI/v-deo.html - This tells about some more: ua-cam.com/video/73cZ-Jp7PxE/v-deo.htmlsi=Z5c5lsM1T4qehVPF
I always just make mitered door frames when they hold glass. Much easier. Run the rabbets all the way through and use my picture frame jig to make the miters.
A question: Are there any modifications you'd make to the setup when installing a mirror? Oftentimes, they've got a bevel to the edging, so I wasn't sure how that'd change the process. Thanks for a great series.
Many economy table saws cannot accommodate a dado blade, but can accommodate two saw blades stacked. One may need to make their own blade cover. The trick to using stacked saw blades is to go smaller on the blades. For instance, if a 10" blade is stock, two 8" or 7-1/4" blades work the motor less, and is more efficient this way. Be certain that the blades are identical, as mismatched blades don't both cut at the same rate or speed.
I've tried this two-blade option. I bought two new supposedly identical blades from the same consignment but there was about 0.5mm difference in the outside diameters, which left a step in the bottom in the groove. This might or might not be a problem depending on how the project fits together.
Cabinets can display anything. Nobody but nobody addresses the issue of shop dust covering the French cleat items. Cabinets with sliding doors will solve the problem. No back to cabinet. Hand French cleat items in cabinet. Use lexan panel for visibility. Your thoughts. Better yet build one and make the video!!!! Thx Bruce. Cleats and Cabinets ( sort of like root beer and ice !)
You mentioned that you use 1.5" rails and stiles for the glass panel doors with a 3/8" deep groove and rabbit. I agree that narrower rails and stiles look better on smaller doors, but you can not use euro hinges which require a minimum 2" width. What kind of hinge did you use?
You would have to stop the rabbets short of the ends of the stiles. Difficult to do with a table saw. Can be done with a router, but this is so much easier.
I believe the pieces that divide panes of glass within a window are called muntins. The pieces that divide window sashes within a single opening are called mullions.
Pardon the “not very bright” question, but couldn’t you cut the rabbet for the glass before assembling the frame...to not have to use the chisel? Easier, cleaner and faster...or am I missing something blatantly obvious? :)
You would have to make the rabbets on the stiles stop short of both ends. While it can be done with a router and stop blocks, I don't think that's easier at all.
@@StumpyNubs like I said “not very bright” question lol. I see exactly what you’re saying now. You’d have to use the chisel anyway. So I WAS missing something blatantly obvious. Sorry for wasting your time brother. :)
The groove creates a place for the tenons on the rails to lock in. The rabbet removes part of that groove for the glass, while leaving the portions for the tenons.
You would have to make the rabbets on the stiles stop short of both ends. While it can be done with stop blocks, I don't think that's easier at all. You also need the groove at the ends of the stiles for the rail's tenons to go into. Technically, you don't have to groove the edges of the rails, but you are already set up for it, so why not just groove it all, and you'll have less "meat" to remove with the rabbeting bit later? As a bonus, you will ensure the rabbets on the rails bottom out even with the grooves on the stiles.
We published two old-timey videos last week. They are the ones with the brown thumbnail image backgrounds. (These most recent ones are about the hand planes on my background.) They are not long and "entertaining" like the videos we made years ago, but they are on an old-timey theme. :)
Thats not why I avoid glass (to whatever I avoid glass). Rather, I avoid glass because it is generally less labor intensive for me, and therefore less profitable. In other words, I would prefer not to pay out the manufacturing labor to the glass company when I can do SWP in-house.
The groove is what holds the tenons for the corner joinery. It's a much stronger, more rack-resistant joint that a mitered corner that you would find on a picture frame. The rabbet had to be made after the fact because you don't want to see the ends of the rabbet when the frame is assembled. This process is much faster and easier than cutting double-stopped rabbets on the individual stiles.
Tools used in this video►
Hedgehog Featherboards (video sponsor): amzn.to/3b4KcVl
Rabbeting router bit: amzn.to/2S0Rxli
Good quality, low priced chisels: lddy.no/sqm3
My favorite dado set (use discount code SNWJ10): ridgecarbidetool.com/collections/dado-sets/products/6-x-16t-x-5-hk-x-8-pc-x-4t-chipper-dado-master
(We may get a small commission if you use one of the above affiliate links.)
Subscribe (free) to Stumpy Nubs Woodworking Journal e-Magazine► www.stumpynubs.com/
I use half lap joints for doors like these, rabbeting out the back for the glass the same way. I find it less fussy than the groove and tenon method shown here. Dial in the dado stack once and make all the cuts.
I like a couple dabs of clear silicone to hold glass in. Keeps it from rattling, and can be cut out if needed.
Always scared putting metal clips/nails, yes I've broken special order glass before 🤦
Me too, 😥
Finished the two doors with glass using silicone 4 days ago 🥳 Lot of stress off my shoulders as I did not break the glass 😅
Perfect timing for this series. I'm looking at building a vitrine cabinet later this summer
Your explanations are clear, concise, thorough, and correct. Well done!
You rock!! Honestly, I'm new to wood working and I have made amazing projects so far that saved me thousands! When you recommended a tool, I never regret getting it! Thank you 😊
So clear and easy to listen to. Thanks again James 🌞
WOW. This series comes JUST IN TIME. Thank you :)
Another great video. I really like how you break everything down for the novice woodworker. Thanks again!
Brilliant video...you never fail to teach me masses each time. Clear, concise, highly informative and brilliantly edited for maximum impact. Thank you!
Thank you for the video. I was taught a long time ago that Knowledge not used is Knowledge lost. Knowledge not shared is also Knowledge lost. Sometimes that Knowledge is lost to history to never be recovered again. The man that taught me that was turning 65 years old and soon retiring I did not know at the time he was sick and dying he hid it well. He taught me many things about the building trades in the year I worked with him. I took that knowledge and shared it along the way. I became an engineer and I taught many others to be engineers also. I am retired myself now not by my choice, but by events in my life from the military and civilian life I some times forget things that I once knew and come to UA-cam to refresh that knowledge. So thank all of You that take Your time to put the effort into making videos. I took up woodworking as a young man and left it behind many years ago to pursue my career path. I have taken the passion of woodworking back up as a way to relax and calm my mind. The power tools of my youth have been replaced with better tools with better technologies that make it safer to work. The hand tools of yesteryear have also leapt forward in their uses also. From the computer software, to dust collection to working techniques mft tables and so forth.
I have been installing the glass doors at the kitchen company I work at for almost a decade now. This is exactly how we do it, only difference is when we cut the groove in the back of the door we put them on one of our CNC machines. We use the sticks you talked about, we call them glass stops, it looks really good when it is done.
If you're going to put more than 3 windows together, I'd recommend buying a point gun used for picture frame making. It's like a staple gun, but shoots glazing points into the wood.
Pro tip if you use glass panels instead of wood in 2021 your projects will be cheaper.
I just posted a similar comment. Might have to learn welding next!
Unfortunately glass has seen a price increase too. But not as much as wood.
It's been cheaper for a long time. What does cost is mirror glass, eg for bathroom and drinks cabinets
@@cuebj - what is mirror glass made of?
@@carlyellison8498 mirrors contain a layer of silver on the back side of them. They're also somewhat expensive to manufacture, driving up the cost.
Great tips. Can't wait to see the rest of the series. Keep up the great work James!
Well done. You addressed everything in a pleasant, easy to understand manner making me to want to listen more.
Last major project I made before taking database development job was scratch build kitchen, no chipboard, in 1990. No power tools then, made on site, similar doors with pine. Tenons and mortices in old way. Now retired, fixing up house, then - cabinets and kitchen islands as pay for itself hobby. This is well timed reminder
Agreed with others, looking forward to the rest of the series. I mostly avoid glass panels because I don't want folks looking in at my mess. However, there are some projects that just call for them.
Me too. That’s why I’m going to buy tinted glass
With you at the helm, even I can do this.
Your instructions are so clear, thank you
I want to try make doors like this, just a lot bigger. Thanks for keeping this simple since I don't a workshop or much for tools.
The ocean of Woodwright’s Shop DVD cases a shelf over are amazing. I had no idea there were that many discs in that set.
Perfect timing I'm in the process of building cabnet doors.
You sir are an awesome teacher,
Informative. Waiting for installments 2 and 3. In particular, cutting the glass. Thanks for the video.
Great job James, really enjoyed watching your video. Thanks for sharing. Fred. 🙏🏻🙏🏻👍👍👏🏻👏🏻👋👋
In the process of making my first Shadowbox for our engagement knives, looking forward to this series
I like Charles Neil's trick to use modeling clay to hold the glass in the frame.
good how to video, personally I use the sommerfeld glass panel router bits, this allows me to do everything on the router table in one pass. I am not associated with them but I do like their bits, you should give them a try.
In my case, with a 1/4” groove in 3/4” stock, there was not enough room for the bearing on the rabbeting bit to make small passes. I wound up cutting the rabbet in one pass taking it very slow. No problem, perfect results.
Thanks James.
Thank you Stumpy! Your videos are great. I'm getting ready to make some doors just like this.
I have nothing to say really, but I appreciate your content, and wish to help with the yt-algorithms.
Great video, and also great timing. Was looking into making cabinets with windows. Although I'm taking the cop out route and using polycarbonate acrylic.
I just ordered that rabbeting bit. It just arrived today, as a matter of fact I haven't even opened the package yet.
Perfect timing! Keep up the good work!!
I am in the process of building a hutch which will have glass doors. Thank you for the timely advise.
Really looking forward to this series of videos, thanks for sharing 👍
Gonna try make this to make a door for my dit viv!
Do you have a beginner beginner series? This is too advanced for me right now, but I really want to learn and understand enough to be able to make my own glass uppers and also bookcases.
Thank you so much for this video.. so informative and helpful. by chance did you ever do the part 3 "Choosing and cutting glass" it says coming soon from back in 2021 but don't see it linked to this or part 2
Looking forward to the next video. I made a custom humidor with a 2 inch half circle at top and bottom of the glass panel door. After failing 5 times, I gave up and took it to a glass shop. 🤦🏻♂️
I think it's easier to use the rabbiting bit before you assemble and glue up the door frame. That way you do not need to chisel out the corners. OR just make a single pass on your table to cut that piece out before assembly. Great video as always!!!
You would have to make the rabbets on the stiles stop short of both ends. While it can be done with stop blocks, I don't think that's easier at all. You also need the groove at the ends of the stiles for the rail's tenons to go into. Technically, you don't have to groove the edges of the rails, but you are already set up for it, so why not just groove it all, and you'll have less "meat" to remove with the rabbeting bit later? As a bonus, you will ensure the rabbets on the rails bottom out even with the grooves on the stiles.
@@StumpyNubs very true. I've just always used two stop blocks. I will definitely try this next time. I'm always looking to make this easier!! 👍
Really fantastic tips, dude! Thanks a lot! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
This is so helpful!
Great video! Thanks for the guidance.
Great video, I appreciate it.
First time watching your video. Very detailed. ❤❤. I would love to know what each tool behind you is used for. That's a massive family of tools. Awesome video. ❤❤
Thanks! As for the tools...
- This tells about some: ua-cam.com/video/-pFmUsrtKlI/v-deo.html
- This tells about some more: ua-cam.com/video/73cZ-Jp7PxE/v-deo.htmlsi=Z5c5lsM1T4qehVPF
Nice. I love to make the stained glass part
Always informative!!!!
Nice video. You explained got to make a stomps door with out making it seem like voodoo magic. What is the fence you are using on your table saw?
Thanks again mate
Great information.
Glass is cheaper than Lumber. Thank you for the video.
can be use also regular plywood this kind of project
Thanks!
thanks
Have you ever made a video on making tendons with a mortiser?
I always just make mitered door frames when they hold glass. Much easier. Run the rabbets all the way through and use my picture frame jig to make the miters.
Very Nice!
Do you have a video on doing this with an ogee design on the rails and styles.
Good useful video.
Thanks for sharing that!
A question: Are there any modifications you'd make to the setup when installing a mirror? Oftentimes, they've got a bevel to the edging, so I wasn't sure how that'd change the process. Thanks for a great series.
A mirror would be no different except don’t use any silicone.
@Nubs if I did this for a door 3'x8' but at the 4:38 mark I did just glue the glass in, do you think it would hold up as a pocket door?
Your videos always cost me money for tools I don't have. Good thing seems like half the links end up "currently unavailable".
Great again Stumpy. Julien Lamarche
Love ur videos!!!!!!
How do you cut curves in glass for more intricate projects?
Tooooo harrrrd!
Not a word about what kind of or thickness of glass to use
I'd be terrified to try tuning a tenon with my table saw...it's the router plane for me. (Maybe time for a new table saw).
Many economy table saws cannot accommodate a dado blade, but can accommodate two saw blades stacked. One may need to make their own blade cover. The trick to using stacked saw blades is to go smaller on the blades. For instance, if a 10" blade is stock, two 8" or 7-1/4" blades work the motor less, and is more efficient this way. Be certain that the blades are identical, as mismatched blades don't both cut at the same rate or speed.
I've tried this two-blade option. I bought two new supposedly identical blades from the same consignment but there was about 0.5mm difference in the outside diameters, which left a step in the bottom in the groove. This might or might not be a problem depending on how the project fits together.
Damn. Never thought of this
Cabinets can display anything. Nobody but nobody addresses the issue of shop dust covering the French cleat items. Cabinets with sliding doors will solve the problem. No back to cabinet. Hand French cleat items in cabinet. Use lexan panel for visibility. Your thoughts. Better yet build one and make the video!!!! Thx Bruce. Cleats and Cabinets ( sort of like root beer and ice !)
You mentioned that you use 1.5" rails and stiles for the glass panel doors with a 3/8" deep groove and rabbit. I agree that narrower rails and stiles look better on smaller doors, but you can not use euro hinges which require a minimum 2" width. What kind of hinge did you use?
With these doors I used simple butt hinges
@@StumpyNubs Thanks. Didn't you fined it hard to get an even reveal on the inset doors?
If you use care when building the cases and fitting the doors, it's not too hard. You can use shims as needed.
Glass, Brass, and Ash
What's the reasoning for cutting the rabbits with a router after assembling the frame instead of with dado blades beforehand?
You would have to stop the rabbets short of the ends of the stiles. Difficult to do with a table saw. Can be done with a router, but this is so much easier.
Have just such a project with munnions (or is it minions?) coming up. Good timing. And thanks!
I believe the pieces that divide panes of glass within a window are called muntins. The pieces that divide window sashes within a single opening are called mullions.
@@StumpyNubs Thanks. So you are going to do muntins or the fake muntins with a single pane of glass?
@@foddermott9532 Real ones, of course :)
@@StumpyNubs in UK we call them mullions
@@katabrontes ... and the junior staff who make them are called minions.
Pardon the “not very bright” question, but couldn’t you cut the rabbet for the glass before assembling the frame...to not have to use the chisel? Easier, cleaner and faster...or am I missing something blatantly obvious?
:)
You would have to make the rabbets on the stiles stop short of both ends. While it can be done with a router and stop blocks, I don't think that's easier at all.
@@StumpyNubs like I said “not very bright” question lol. I see exactly what you’re saying now. You’d have to use the chisel anyway.
So I WAS missing something blatantly obvious. Sorry for wasting your time brother.
:)
@@enzprintco.8625 Didn't waste it :)
But wait I’m new to this & confused? Instead of going thru the trouble of making the 1/4” groove. Why didn’t you rabbit it to begin with?
The groove creates a place for the tenons on the rails to lock in. The rabbet removes part of that groove for the glass, while leaving the portions for the tenons.
@StumpyNubs ok. The only way I'll truly understand, is to route the 2 bits. That I just received in the mail. Thanks for the quick response 👍
Where are you getting the seeded glasd
Online. I forget the place. But there are a lot of sources if you do a Google search.
And if you need Glass in South Western Michigan I can help you at John's Glass in Niles.
Just a suggestion: Make the thumbnail say 1 of 3 instead of just 1.
I think my viewers are sophisticated enough to figure out the numbering system :)
@@StumpyNubs Jokes on you, I'm way too dumb.
Ok, I'm not used to using imperial measurements, so why not use metric?
Are you asking me why I don't change the system I've used my whole life to make it easier for you to watch a video?
Why cut the groove then rabbet? Why can’t you just cut a single rabbet on the inside of the frame and skip the groove step?
You would have to make the rabbets on the stiles stop short of both ends. While it can be done with stop blocks, I don't think that's easier at all. You also need the groove at the ends of the stiles for the rail's tenons to go into. Technically, you don't have to groove the edges of the rails, but you are already set up for it, so why not just groove it all, and you'll have less "meat" to remove with the rabbeting bit later? As a bonus, you will ensure the rabbets on the rails bottom out even with the grooves on the stiles.
Why do the dado when you can rabbit eliminating the step
For the tenons
Did I miss something? Why not just make a normal frame without a groove and rabeting it?
The grooves are used for the corner joinery. The tenons go in them.
Still waiting on an old timey workshop 😆 you my boy blue
We published two old-timey videos last week. They are the ones with the brown thumbnail image backgrounds. (These most recent ones are about the hand planes on my background.) They are not long and "entertaining" like the videos we made years ago, but they are on an old-timey theme. :)
What took me so long??
"Woodworking isn't done on paper." Actually, it kinda is, when you think about it... (jus sayin')
Cutting the groove and then using the router is a bit... redundant..
Not at all. And if you think about it for a minute, you will see why.
Thats not why I avoid glass (to whatever I avoid glass). Rather, I avoid glass because it is generally less labor intensive for me, and therefore less profitable. In other words, I would prefer not to pay out the manufacturing labor to the glass company when I can do SWP in-house.
I find that the glass company's labor is way cheaper than mine. :)
Why didn't you just make the rabbet and not waste time making the groove? You basically made a picture frame, so why make the groove?
The groove is what holds the tenons for the corner joinery. It's a much stronger, more rack-resistant joint that a mitered corner that you would find on a picture frame. The rabbet had to be made after the fact because you don't want to see the ends of the rabbet when the frame is assembled. This process is much faster and easier than cutting double-stopped rabbets on the individual stiles.
how about taking the current cabinet doors cutting them and inserting glass into them instead of making all new doors...
Also, Go Wings! ♥️ 🤍