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8 AWG (Gauge) Silicone Wire - 115 Amp Test at 12 Volts - High Capacity 1650 Strands Stranded Copper
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- Опубліковано 26 лис 2020
- In this video, we continue off a previous video where we mentioned we would push a silicone wire to the max of what our battery is capable of. using two previously pulled battery packs, we connect them in parallel and pull 115 Amps at first. The inverter shut down on us at first and we had to dial it back a bit to 110 Amps.
The cable held with no issues, this is an extreme case use of the 12V 100Amp battery, but we wanted to prove it could take.
Purchase links:
www.amazon.com/dp/B08J3974W3
rebelbatteries.com/go/12v-100...
8AWG Stranded Tin Copper Silicone Wire is just what I'm hooking up 13.8VDC linear amplifiers [350 and 550 PEP watts] with. Had a small measure of concern what this wire was capable of carrying. Not expected to pull more than 100 Amps regularly, from 200A converter. Having now seen this video I can confidently apply, in a pinch, juice to a third linear producing 1350 PEP watts, as well. Your video set my mind at ease. Thank you for sharing.
Stranding does not help ampacity. Solid would be better but if built properly the stranded will have the same cross-sectional area of copper, but will take slightly more space due to the (small) gaps between strands. The biggest part is the high temperature tolerance, but there will still be the at least the same losses (hopefully no more) in the wire as any wire with the same actual cross-sectional area.
Stranded wire allows the wire to be significantly more flexible.
Thanks for the video! Heat = inefficiency, it really is that simple. Just seems to me the slightly higher cost of going with a 6AWG, or doubling up this and the negative cable would be well worth it. I am already concerned about heat in my RV storage cabinet where my Magnum Inverter will also be generating heat. Honestly, I think I'd pull the trigger on 4 of these but for this unnecessary heat these cables will generate., i.e. wasted power from my precious battery bank.
Mark, we have improved and doubled up on all current and future batteries. Our new batteries come with 6AWG for the 100AH, and two 6AWG on the 200/300Ah. The battery in this video was version 1.0 and a small batch order. We've also upgraded the BMS, which can now do series or parallel up to 4 batteries. Thanks for the comment.
I think metal material ie CCA (copper clad aluminum wire) vs pure copper and length determine the internal resistance which in turn causes heat.
Thankyou for the video. What brand of silicone wire do you recommend.12g wire.
My suggestion is to measure the voltage and current across the the WIRE you're testing to see how much power loss there. At that temperature, I think the loss is pretty high. At 115 Amps, if the voltage across the wire is 0.5 Volts, then the loss will be 115x0.5=57.5 Watts. 57 Watts, out of let say 1000W, is 5.7% loss. Thanks for the video. It's a good test.
Correct, Copper starts to loose conductivity after 70 degrees C and gets worst as it gets hotter.
If i got 8awg wire rated for 50amp for residential household use, and I bunch 4 of them together into a 1awg ring terminal lug, does it mean it can technically carry 150-200amp current?
Nice video! I just ordered that inverter for our rv solar project. Are those the cables that come with that inverter? If not, how did the cables that come with the Kreiger inverter hold up? Subscribed. I'll make my own video once I finish the project. Thanks for sharing.
They did come with the inverter and seem to be of decent quality. Running at max watts (1500) for extended periods and they get pretty warm, but not hot.
I just went ALL out and got short 2 foot length of 0awg or 1/0 awg for my 1000W modified sinewave 12v DC to 110v AC power inverter.
No wires heating up for me! And minimal voltage drop. Gets the maximum possible runtime out of the 100AH capacity agm battery I can. No cutting out early from voltage drop. Only takes a tiny percentage of voltage drop for the low voltage cutout to trip. so I oversized the wires massively. No chance of the wires getting warm even if the inverter got struck by lightning.
1000W is also not really going to be used for extended periods of time. Only for brief periods. few minutes at most.
Battery terminal voltage alone by itself drops to just under 12v. at the inverters rated 1000W output.
Can run a upright vacuum or small shop vaccum cleaner up to 8 amps rating easily without even breaking a sweat.
Might even upsize our battery capacity in the future to 200AH. That way I get more runtime on heavy loads without taking the battery under 12v.
1650 strands in 8 awg? Right
What gauge wire would be suitable for converting a connection to xt60 for a 48v 11.5ah battery (750-1000w) for an ebike? Does anyone have a suggestion? I was thinking to just use this 8WG wire...
Well xt60 is a max 10gauge connector. I wouldn’t put more than 60amps thru an xt60 connector
Use an xt90 resolder both ends swap them out for the bigger plugs
@@onesikm3 thanks a lot! The issue I have is most third party eBike battery have an XT60 on one end...
You basically have a heater element inside your battery box. You should double that cable up. Also your cable lugs have very little material on the connections. Juat because a wire can handle a current doesn't mean it efficient.
Yes. I agree. While one does meet the spec. We've doubled up the wires on the next batch that are coming in.
Dear Sir, we are manufactory of 8awg silicone wire in China, 1650/0.08TS, soft silicone , Maybe if you can try our products?
Sir, how much amps can 16&18 awg silicone wire carry continuously? I want to Tether my drone using these wires (low budget project). Will it be ok for 10-20 meters of tether? Pls tell
Wattage of my drone is 300 watt, max amps 28-30, for hover 20amps
@@vikaslikhitkar1483 Maybe 1 meter can support 20A of 16AWG. You'll have massive voltage drop using 10-20 meters at high amperage. I wouldn't push 16AWG past 20A and 18AWG past 10A
Hello friend. Tell me, 8 AWG silicone can withstand 75A, 24V for 3 hours? Cable length 5 meters
Maybe, that is a very long length. I would test it before installing it.
@@reBelBatteries What is the permissible temperature of the cable under load?
@@PetruninAleksandr Most datasheets I could find for silicone wire state 200C.
@@reBelBatteries I can hardly believe it =) Maybe China is lying?
Too long. it will handle it, just!!, but it would get hot and you would loose efficiency and on hot days it might cause too much resistance and blow your appliance. For 5 metres, either double the 8 awg or use 6 awg and even then I would test it after to see what temperature it reaches if gets hot at all.
If it can handle a 1500watt inverter why is it that every resource I find recommends at least 3/0 AWG for a 3000w inverter? (12v) It seems way overkill and my local store only has 1/0 awg
Silicone wire can withstand higher temperatures. The higher strand count helps reduce gaps and pass more current. This is a pretty well-debated subject. Personally... before learning of silicone wire, I used (2) 1/0 wires on a Victron 5000 watt inverter. That was the recommendation by Victron and most inverter companies will tell you the minimum cross-sectional area required. 1/0 has a 55 mm square cross-sectional area and was printed in the manual. Always defer to the inverter manufacturer.
Devices that generate heat quickly degrade your battery state of charge. Its better and more efficient to have oversized wires and a short run to your inverter. Why waste the watt hours heating the wires when you can use it to run the inverter. Silicone insulation might withstand higher heat but the wire resistance goes up as well. Why add to losses if you can avoid it with larger wire and good connections. I am a firm believer that one cannot possibly have a big enough battery bank.
@@reBelBatteries wire strand count is ONLY FOR ADDED FLEXIBILITY… it has absolutely ZERO effect on amperage handling ability in DC current.
The only reason high amperage is claimed on this wire is the 200C insulation rating. Allowing high amps to push through the wire, and the insulation will not melt…
But the conductor will be wasting a lot of energy to heat.
Your wire maybe able to handle it. But your losing voltage and watts. The last thing I want to do is lose power before I even hook my wires to the battery
I replied to another one of your comments, but again... while it meets the spec, we have doubled the wire in our batch due to arrive in a few weeks. Thanks for the input.
@@reBelBatteries I love how much you interact with the comments on here, really awesome! Its so cool to see you listening to people and actually making changes to your products. That shows your a company that really cares.
I agree with the others thou, I dont care what the #8 is rated for, its to small for 100a, let alone 200a continuous current, short spikes would be fine. Its also acting like a choke point and limiting surge current into an inverter, which could keep it from being able to start big surge loads.
Yes that small wire all by its self is rated to handle it just fine, but everything that wire is connected to is most likely not rated to handle 400 degrees. If the cable is 400 degrees and screwed to the terminal of the cell, that cell is going to start getting REAL hot, same for the terminal on the battery box, same for the connections on the BMS. Just because the WIRE is rated for the temp, doesnt mean that everything that wire is connected to is rated for the same temp, not many things are rated to handle 200c. Also the voltage drop (power loss) pushing 100-200a over number 8 cant be good.
Its like putting race tires on a geo metro, just because the tires are rated for +200mph and can corner at 2g's, doesnt mean the rest of the car is rated for that kind of performance.
As an electrician, in the code book we have to use our wire based on the weakest link. Much of the wire we use is rated for 90c, but most things we connect it to are only rated 60c or 75c, so we can only use the 90c wire as if it were rated for the lowest c device it is connected to. So if you connect 90c wire to a 60c breaker, you have to size the wire like it is only 60c. Meaning, at 90c the wire might be rated for 60a, but at 60c, the wire is only good for 40a. In our world #8 is only rated around 40-50 amps, for 100a you go to #2, 200a you go to 2/0. Its all about keeping the temps down, and power loss/voltage drop, to a minimum.
@@Tro1086 Thanks for the input and we've listened... we've worked with the manufacturer and all batteries now have double wiring. The original warranties stand and we haven't had a single issue from overheating reported. 99% of people using these, do so in a reasonable manner and don't push 100A in and out continuously (although they could) ;)
A new shipment of batteries is coming in today, and there will be more videos coming, stay tuned.
@@reBelBatteries You guys are awesome, cant wait to see more videos, and new products on the site!
I agree, most people will never pull that much current thru the battery for any real amount of time, but the fact that the battery is capable of it, means the other components should also be up to the task. I know the wire was rated for the task, but by doing so creates a lot of undesirable heat that will soak into other components.
By upgrading the wire now, you could probably get away with something like 100c. I dont know what the price difference is between the silicone fine strand stuff, and something more common like MTW wire. The silicone 200c wire isnt necessary anymore if your not going to be pushing the conductor so hard, may be able to get away with a cheaper wire/but larger conductor. Just a thought. In my mind 2 6AWG rated around 100c +/- would be perfect. Two 6s would handle 110a without even breaking a sweat, and only be warm to the touch. But the 2 #8s should be fine a fine upgrade. Did you guys upgrade the 2 #10s on the BMS side?
If you (REALLY) wanted to TEST the cable, you should have added more batteries (in parallel) and also paralleled a second inverter to double the amperage through the test cable.
The TRUE TEST would have been to pass 2-3 times the RATED current to see what fails or what happens.
This test only showed you could pass 110 amps through that short piece of cable.
Maybe use a welder to pass higher amperage and SEE what happens... Just a suggestion.
This test was only to show what the battery is designed to supply. 100 Amps. Perhaps another test is in order just to see where the cable ultimately fails!
Hi
As Jeff Goldblum said in Jurrasic Park, "Just because you can, doesn't mean you should". That 1 foot length of #8 will drop nearly 0.1V at 100A and 70dg C. Really?? For a few pennies more, this design could have been much better. Yes it's safe, but short-sighted. Hopefully you're ordering in large enough quantities so that you can specify a common-sense improvement.
We have double the wire on all future orders. When they arrive, there will be another video.