Get BRILLIANTLY CLEAR BEER EVERY TIME (Every Way)
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- Опубліковано 9 лип 2024
- How often have you worked hard to brew a beautiful, brilliantly crystal clear beer and it still ends up a bit hazy? Here is how to fight haze every step of the brewing process and get beautiful clarity every time!
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WHIRLFLOC: amzn.to/3Vh1SEA
IRISH MOSS: amzn.to/3TYCm6a
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0:00 Intro and welcome
0:57 Where does the haze come from?
2:06 Haze prevention in the mash
3:08 Haze prevention in the boil
4:21 Haze prevention in the fermentation
5:38 Haze prevention during conditioning
7:57 Other methods
9:48 My Method
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Full disclosure, most of the links on this page are affiliate links. This means if you buy through them I make a small percentage from the sale at no additional cost to you. All money earned through the channel goes back into the videos and brews you see on my channel. As always, don't just take my word for it, do your research before you decide to buy.
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#clarity #finings #lager #beer #brewing #homebrewing #clawhammersupply #graintoglass #BIAB #allgrain - Навчання та стиль
Patience is hard but works almost every time. Although lately I’ve found people don’t mind hazy beer so much anymore with the hazy beer craze. I still love a crystal clear crispy beer though! Cheers!
Very true! Cheers Brian!
Finally! This is the video I’ve been waiting for from your channel!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Very useful info. Thank you. I've been brewing for many years and have not worked this out. Time to start.
Thank you for the best summary of haze & clarity. I really appreciate it. /cheer
Nice review of techniques to achieve less haze and how to clarify beer post the brewing process. Cheers!
Cheers guys, thank you!
"unless you're brewing hazies" haha love it. Cheers! It's nice to have a good reminder/compilation of the tried and tested techniques.
There are many ways to get to the same result!
Great content! I feel inspired now, I always knew it was a straightforward solution but never bothered and just accepted murky beer.
Its not too tough to incorporate!
To me absolutely nothing compares to the floating dip tube and you don't have to the touch the beer to implement. To me that's the logical place to start, and one costs like $13 to try.
You can see why this works so well watching a yeast starter settle in the fridge/cold outside. You'll see after just 30-60 minutes how stratified the liquid is, but almost certainly the top 5-10% will already be quite clear.
I'd agree that Whirlfloc is the next easiest thing to add, just plug it in with your 10 minute addition. And the third most effective for me is gelatin over biofine, but both have downsides that the others don't.
Great information! I'm also really loving your shots & B-roll - awesome work 🙂
Thanks Mandy!
So many brewers says that beer is beer, hazy has nothing to say.. But pouring a crystal clear beer is kind of a good feeling a homebrewer never can't escape.. Great tips and great video - thanks man!
It really is a special feeling!
I always add whirl floc during boil, and mostly rack the beer from the primary to a secondary fermenter. Lagering and cold crash also help.
I see you are serially enjoying your lager there, my friend. This speaks well of your product!
Great video! Very informative.
Glad it was helpful!
I know this is probably going to start a fight but, when I first started homebrewing, I skimmed the hot break and left the trub in the kettle. After reading the Brulosophy trub experiment, I started dumping everything from the kettle into the fermenter and I've never noticed any decrease in clarity since I started doing so. Granted, my motivation for doing so was more about flavor than appearance, and I've never done a side by side comparison to empirically prove that myself (I don't have the space or equipment to make two beers at the same time), but I'll stand by my position that things like skimming the hot break and leaving the trub in the kettle are unnecessary.
It doesn't seem to really have too much impact either, I generally don't worry about it too much either. It does seem to give me a but more chill haze in my experience but I'm not totally sure if it's linked. Regardless, that's certainly not the only way to reduce the haze.
I generally dont like drinking super clear beers.
In the beer industry various additives are sometimes added to limit the amount of haze in the final product (An enzyme called papain from memory).
The haze doesn't affect the flavour or aroma of the beer - it's a marketing issue.
(although some may argue that the papain enzymatic action changes the beer. I haven't seen any rigorous studies that show a change in flavour or aroma due to papain addition - could be wrong on that)
Cheers🍺
I never skim in my professional brewing, but I do take the wort off the trub.
If anything else it helps with get the most beer in the end as you aren't losing as much beer mixed in the trub.
All good stuff!
Thanks Larry!!
I learned to lean the corny leg a little. This provides a place for everything to settle with the dip tube higher and not in the muck! I also have a hop rocket that I stuff a few muslin hops bags full of rice hills into. I recirculate back into the BK to filter out as much muck as possible. Then I remove the hop back and pump from BK through a plate chiller to the fermentation bucket. Great video.
Nice!
When I do Lagers I let the wort cool down over night for around 24 hours so everything has fallen to the bottom of the Brewzillia 'all grain boiler' so the next day reasonably clean wort is going into the fermzillar fermenter then I run that through a filter into the keg which have floating dip tubes and like you said filtering doesn't stop chill haze, it is clear when it is filtered but as soon as it cools it is cloudy, I then add biofine to the keg and here is the important part I add it to the keg which is cold and use a spoon to evenly stir it into the top 4 inches or so of cold beer, I see so many people drop biofine or gelatin in then put the lid on you need to evenly mix it in the top 4 inches, that layer of biofine then drops and 24 hours later I do the same again then 1 or 2 days after it is crystal clear, I see so many people pouring biofine or gelatin into the keg and you end up with a uneven mixing and it drops and doesn't take all the hae with it, I was using gelatine but found biofine much better and faster, I use 30ml of biofine too.
How are you doing bro like your points for my beer I’m using none alcoholic beer and a certain amount of sugar so after it finished it was quite clear but it was not that strong so I decided to add more sugar in a extremely small amount of east and close it back up again did that for two weeks when I opened the smell was a lot stronger but it was very foggy and cloudy what would you suggest to add or to do if my accessibility two products that can help is extremely limited ? Hope to hear from you soon really enjoyed your channel and will be happy to see a lot more from you in the future
Great and timely video. I'm about to lager and gelatinatize my psedo pilsner
Nice!
I haven't done a lager (10 week lagering process) in a long time, but I'm about to have a go at a derivative version of your lutra german pils recipe. I'm thinking of using whirlfloc (as I always do), plus some clarity ferm when I pitch, then keg and add some biofine. I'm also looking at my local homebrew supplier and they sell a corny keg lid with floating dip tube assembly built in fairly cheap, so I could get that and use it when I want a nice clear beer without needing to modify the keg in any other way
Great video!
Thanks!
Great video and explanations! I learned that not every kind of gelatine (all of them flavourless) yield different results. But I agree it’s the most economic cold side dining.
I didn't realize there were multiple kinds, I've just been using generic store bought powdered Knox gelatin and it's very effective
Thanks
Thank you!
thanks for the reminder of getting things cold before adding finnings
Easy to forget!
how do these things change if you bottle and don't keg?
Almost certainly the best UA-cam video on the subject, well done!
My one critique is that you absolutely CAN filter out Chill Haze with a filter. A "sanitary filtration" is usually 0.5 micron and with chill haze particles ranging from .1 -1 micron, that can work pretty well. The real magic is in using finings to get the chill haze molecules to form their own clumps / floccs that are much larger than 1 micron in size before you filter. A sanitary filtration of 0.5 WILL remove flavor and even color, though.
Hop dipping into the fermenter works well.
You've covered it all, good video!The only thing I'll add to this is, some lager beer yeasts seem to hold onto that haze more than others. I found some lager yeast (s-23) needs more biofine, even after lagering for a couple of weeks, than some german yeast strains. Heck I've had hazy IPA's fermented with london fog yeast and all the rules to keep hazys hazy, become more clear than weeks of lagering a S-23 lager with a small amount of biofine, all because that lindin fog yeast was getting a little old. Like 8-10 pitches. Where as S-23 I'm on, good god, 25! I'm going to replace it now, simple because the lag phase is a couple days longer than it used to be as a new yeast.
Fabulous and timely video. @TheApartmentBrewer I'm just back from the Bavarian Alps (a magical Christmas). About to brew a Munich Helles and so your advice on clarity is well-received indeed. Whilst in Germany, I enjoyed a couple of amazing Eisbocks (11.9% abv). What would your advice be when racking to a bottle (as opposed to keg) ... my setup is all for bottles y'see (I'll get a keg setup when the other half is in a good mood). Can I add cold side finings to the CF, prior to bottling? Cheers, and Happy New Year, Sir!
That sounds like an excellent Christmas, I am very jealous!! If you are direct bottling from the fermenter, I would recommend cold crashing your fermenter and adding cold side finings then. Happy new year!
does it work with wine as well?
My method..a whirl flock tab or a little Irish moss..and maybe some gelatin..cold crash in keg for 1-2 weeks!!
Pretty much the same as mine!
Yeast type has made a massive difference for me. My process is good and consistent and I was getting clarity that I was happy with simply from cold crashing (I always recirculate the mash, use kettle finings and whirlpool before transferring to the FV). Then I changed yeast and now my beer is very cloudy when nothing else in my process has changed.
This is true, using a low flocculating yeast will definitely cause haze!
Immigrants ii.mmm
Wow- this video couldn't be more timely! I just tapped my latest brew to find it's hazy where it "shouldn't" be. Time would most certainly help here I'm sure, but 'tis the season (and I want to enjoy my spiced ale in the winter, dangit!) so I'm adding gelatin to the keg as we speak. Not only is this a cold side addition, but it's post carbonation too...😬
I've done that too, seems like post carbonation doesn't really affect its performance
Good content. Can you do a video on improving head production and retention?
Sure, I'll put it on the list
One technique that I usually use, and it works pretty well, is to freeze the beer until it forms ice crystals. Then just turn off the colding source and let the beer to unfreeze naturally. It always brings awesome results!
Thanks for sharing!
that is extreme cold crashing lol
Scoop out the ice and boost your ABV.
do you have any videos speaking on astringent/hop burn in hazy/neipas?
You can check out some of my hazy/IPA brews and I discuss them
The only thing i do different is I cold crash the fermenter and then add cold side finings before kegging. This means i don't have to super chill my kegerator and the other beers in it. But same as you clear PDQ. 👍
Nice!
Another really effective fining agent that is also really cheap, Isinglass. To prevent the floating dip tube from only drawing CO2, I've added stainless steel nuts to mine, the weight the tube part of the float under the liquid, works a treat.
I believe that is the same component as whirlfloc, but not sure. The SS nut is a great idea, I use washers for mine now
@@TheApartmentBrewer Isinglass, sound disgusting, as it was originally the swim bladders of a Sturgeon I believe. Now I think it is from any fish. You don't taste it. It's a cold side fining and so cheap as it would otherwise be a waste product from the fishing industry.
Hey, wondered if you could offer some advice. I've got a lager in my conical fermenter, currently cold crashing before I keg. I used protofloc, clarity ferm, and have had it cold crashed for a few days already. I pulled a sample this morning and it's still very hazy with yeast floating in the sample. Tastes lovely but was really hoping to make a clear lager. Any advice? I have ordered a floating dip tube but was wondering if I should do anything else? I'm really surprised just how hazy it is
It still takes quite a while to fully clarify. It will likely need a little longer than a few days of cold crashing to clarify. But if you use that floating dip tube it shouldn't take long to clear up.
I had the issues you described with the kegland floating dip tube. I switched to the clear beer draught system and haven’t looked back. It never draws CO2, only beer.
Nice, I solved the issues with a few 304 stainless steel washers added to the float ball ring though
Awesome video, one question. So for my Clawhammer the trub is going to be in suspension while recirculating so trying to not get trub in the fermenter would be difficult. Do you wait for the trub in kettle to drop out and then move the beer over to the fermenter or do you just throw everything in the fermenter?
He has a couple videos where he runs his whirlpool arm while cooling so the trub all gathers in a cone in the middle. I have a CHS system also; sometimes I let the cooled wort sit for 15 min to let the protein drop then siphon from the top.
@@richardguernsey908 Oh crap your right, I even watched that video too and totally forgot LOL. Thanks!
Yeah its the whirlpool technique I discussed, but don't worry too much about the trub carryover. What's important is breaking the proteins out of solution during the boil.
Honestly with a floating dip tube you don't even need the gelatin. It's so effective at 95% of beers hit with whirlfloc, crystal coat draft.
Awesome video but missed the most important factor for protein coagulation at boil: THE PH! Must be ideally 5.2 or as close as possible and then all the ...flocs and /or carragenaan(Irish moss) will truly make wonders. 5.2 PH at boil is also important if you want the highest quality bitterness that comes from hop added at boil but that is another subject for another video! About Clarity ferm, in US maybe tougher to obtain Gluten free beers with this enzyme but in Europe any beer with lower than 20 ppm is legally Gluten free. If someone correctly use White labs calculator will end up having a beer with even lower than 3 ppm, it is a good enzyme!
Great steps. Only thing I would add is use ro or distilled water fir the brew
True, forgot to mention water profile impacts. Adding extra calcium helps yeast flocculation
You da man ❤️🎷
Thanks man!
I actually have a couple friends that are gluten-intolerant. I'd love a video on doing a GF beer for them.
In addition to eliminating chill haze, Clarity Ferm significantly reduces the gluten content in beers made with barley and wheat. A Clarity-Ferm treated beer made from barley or wheat usually tests below 20 ppm of gluten, the current international standard for gluten free.
Not if they have celiacs.
Gluten-reduced (not gluten-free) is possible with clarity ferm, thats the 20 ppm standard, but depending on how bad someone's celiac may be they probably still won't be able to drink it without negative effects. To get a gluten-free beer, you need gluten free grains and yeast. I've been thinking about doing a video on it, but Trent from the BruSho has a great couple videos on the subject you should check out in the meantime.
Thanks for the video :) Very informative. but I'm not sure how much grams of gelatine to use for a keg (18lt beer) :(
Usually I dissolve a teaspoon of gelatin into a cup of warm water, heat to 150 then add the mixture to the keg
Problem I have is that they get clear once the keg is close to empty!
Protein rest during the mash is also a good way to reduce chill haze. Especially if the person doesn’t know if the malt is under modified or not. It does take away from the body so there is a give and take for it.
Also proper recirculation of mash or at least the first couple of runnings from the mash poured back into the mash. So those proteins and solids don’t make their way to the boil.
Also also the extended boil helps too to ensure you broke down all the proteins. Doing the dreaded 90 minute boil.
Also also also that poor whirfloc! The disrespect lol 😂
Hahaha I knew you would enjoy that clip
Damn yellow jacket was really messing right there at the start! Thanks as always for your well thought out and immensely informative content!
Haha, yeah they get a bit curious that time of year. Thank you!
Almost 100% base content, skimming, protafloc, keeping trub in a kettle, flocculant yeast, cold crashing, and a bit of extra time in all steps of brewing. So no short mash or short boils. So far in 5 years of brewing never tried cold side fining or filtration to rush clear beer.
Nothing beats the tried and true traditional methods!
Hi there, thanks very much for your information, hopefully I will get clear beer from now on 👍🍺
Any tips with the floating dip tube floating to high? I have that issue all the time.
Adding a stainless steel washer or but seems to be the preferred solution
Add a stainless steel key-ring to create a little more space between the float and end of the flexible dip-tube to avoid the "pulling CO2" issue.
Great idea!
Great vid, how much biofine or gelatin do you use?
About a tablespoon usually
I actually had that floating dip tube problem that you mentioned in my last brew. It was terrible hearing that screeching sound of it sucking C02. I tried several methods to fix it, but the thing I had to do was slice it, swapping it for a regular dip tube.
Basically, I’m scarred from that, and want to avoid floating dip tubes at all cost, although it worked perfectly the previous brew. I am curious, how often do you have this problem and is there a go-to method that you use to fix it?
I've taken to adding a stainless steel hex nut iron some washers to the float ball ring and that has helped tremendously in keeping the tube below the surface of the beer.
I actually have a question. Can I transfer after fermentation to a conical, chill that, add gelatin, then keg?
Technically yes, there isn't anything wrong with that, but you could also do the same thing in a keg
Hey man, watched a few of your videos. I am wanting to get into brewing. Wanting to brew IPA’s and maybe some sours once I get some brews under my belt. I have done a ton of research and I definitely want to start out doing all grain brewing. Just want to get other peoples opinion. I was wondering which equipment do you think I should start out with? I have been looking at the all in one electric systems. Which one would you recommend? I don’t mind spending $300-$1000 on equipment and I got space. If I do get an all in one system is there any accessories that I need? Thanks a bunch man! I followed you on Instagram as well and noticed you’re an LT, I am one as well!
My advice would be not to spend too much right away unless you are dead set on getting into brewing. A good starter system is the anvil foundry, which comes in around 500 and is very space friendly.
Great video! How do you add the cold side finings without oxygen exposure? Or do you just open the lid and purge? Thanks!
ua-cam.com/video/vhDxu-ARhKA/v-deo.html Adding gelatine or tincture to a pressurized vessel - clear beer gelatine Fermentasaurus Fermzilla
In standard corny keg, you can unscrew the PRV and syringe the finings through that whole. In theory minimum oxygen exposure.
I use a 20 oz plastic bottle with a carb cap and tubing that reaches to the bottom. Purge the air in the bottle and pressurize to 20psi. Then shoot the gelatin mixture from the bottle in to the keg’s gas post with a 2-gas disconnect assembly (attached together with tubing). Works for me.
Both of those are great suggestions. Thank you!
I use the syringe/PRV method for it. With a quick purge or 2 or so PSI flowing through the keg, there's virtually no risk for oxidation
Enzymes makes the starch conversion easy: Alpha-amylase and Glucoamylase.
Do you just go from the fermenter into a purged keg, then seal and cold crash just like that? I hear there are negative pressures involved that can suck airbin from the outside. Obviously not if you have a small amount of pressure in the keg for it to seal air tight. Or will it? I'm about ready to keg for the 1st time and cold crashing has me wondering about how exactly it works in a keg
Thats my usual process, never had an issue with it since I will hook it up to gas right away to force carbonate. I think the only situation where that might happen is if you didn't add pressure to it right away. Anything over 5 psi into the headspace will prevent that.
@@TheApartmentBrewer ok so you go straight into the keg from the fermenter and use force carbonation pressures through the whole process, that's the cold crash and carbonation time, and lagering all at once. Am I reading that right?
Yeah I add pressure as soon as it's kegged and purged. Then it carbonates and cools at the same time.
Does adding gelatin take away hop flavors? I read somewhere that it can
Not in my experience
Спасибо за видео!Но лучше избавление от мутности все же 2 недели в кеге при 0 градусов)
Cheers!
Where did you hear gelatin will only work in cold beer? I normally make gelatin and pour it on the bottom of my keg and rack my warm beer on top and then purge,seal and stick in kegerator. Your saying this will not work?
The Chill haze has to form before the gelatin can strip it out. I have added it warm before and it still works, eventually, it's just a lot slower. When the beer is cold, and then I add the gelatin the beer clarifies in 24-48 hours
@@TheApartmentBrewer great thanks for the response. With your video and homebrew4life gelatin video I am going to change my process and rack to a keg, purge, put in kegerator for 24hrs, pour in gelatin and purge again. I normally only do a primary so oxygen exposure should be fine.
My method: Protein rest, Irish moss, proper cold break and whirlpool,
biofine (15ml per 5 gal) then proper crash.
Great method!
I have not used Clarity Ferm yet. Since it reduces gluten does it affect the taste of the beer? Ex. Gluten free bread taste like cardboard if you know what I mean. Thank you.
Nope, no impact to flavor. Gluten doesn't really contribute any flavor to a beer
Any tips for those who just bottle there beer instead of kegging
Cheers
The only thing that changes with bottling vs kegging is cold side finings. They still work if you bottle, but you would need to add the cold side finings during a fermenter cold crash. If you don't want to do that, clarityferm is your best bet. Every other thing doesn't matter if you bottle or keg
He had some great technique, one thing he skipped was not really lagering, but syphoning your brew into another fermenter once the primary fermentation has pretty much stopped to get it off the old yeast (which can still blob up with the odd Co2 bubble) and let it clear in another fermenter for a week or so. It's not at cold temperature for several weeks so I wouldn't call this lagering, maybe maturing. This requires just one extra fermenter and you can use your original fermenter for another brew. On top of that, using a CO2 bottle instead of priming the beer in your keg of course cuts down on yeast in comparison. I'm an extract brewer because I'm lazy and can get a good result when doing things right without the expensive and time consuming mashing and boiling.
I have ruined the hop character of quite a few beers by adding cold side finings (and therefore introducing oxygen). I am removing the lid and adding the Gelatin halfway though cold crash. What should I do?
I recommend adding it at kegging. Run CO2 through the gas side and use a syringe to add the gelatin mixture through the PRV in the lid.
@@TheApartmentBrewer I'm not kegging unfortunately but you know what? I think I should be. Thanks so much for your help!! :-)
@@Nickubus99 anytime! It's an absolute game changer when it comes to oxygen
How are you adding your cold side finings after kegging without introducing oxygen?
Usually I unscrew the prv on the keg and use a syringe to add the finings, then replace the prv and purge
@@TheApartmentBrewer Thanks for the info, if you have a suggestion for your syringe setup that would be great or a link if this was shown on a video I may have missed, and Happy Holidays!
@@I5Electric same to you! I actually demonstrated the technique in my Christmas beer video last week when I added my vanilla extract
Where does the gelatine go in a warm beer, if it doesn’t stick around until the beer cools down to serving temperature? I would say it sticks around in suspension and does its trick when the beer cools. At least that’s my experience since I never cold crash before kegging, and still get clear beer.
It will eventually do its job with enough time in cold storage, but if you allow the beer to get cold (after kegging)) and then add the gelatin, you'll get clear beer in 48 hours or so.
yellow jacket says he'll drink your czech lager even if it's not crystal clear 🙂
Haha he was certainly very interested
Many systems draw from the bottom when transferring to fermenter - and my fermenter can only reliably go down to 4C.
The kettle trub going into the fermenter isnt a huge problem, its making sure it breaks out of solution during the boil thats important. 4 C is cold enough
@@TheApartmentBrewer I am moving into a condo soon, and thinking I might get some better luck with a spike brew bucket chilled with the TC100 and glycol - instead of my current grainfather setup. Might be able to get it even colder.
One thing that isn't mentioned very often is when to add that gelatin.
@@zzing that will definitely work. The timing depends on whether you want to cold crash or not. I tend to add mine right after kegging but you can yours in the fermenter after cold crashing if you want
My solution is to brew often enough such that I have a backlog of kegs lagering just waiting to be tap'd :-)
Nothing wrong with that!
Don't filter your beer if you plan on bottling. It will filter out the yeast and won't be able to carbonate.
Depending on the filter size, this is true
And then there's guys like me that like their beers so black that you can't see the haze in the first place lol
Wait, how the hell are you supposed to add cold side fining agents without oxidizing your beer?
The method I use is with a syringe through the PRV in either your keg or unitank while gas pressure is hooked up to the gas port. Works like a charm every time.
@@TheApartmentBrewer That makes total sense lol
Add some Irish moss at the boil
Always a good move. I like to use whirlfloc though instead, it's essentially the same thing
Claritrferm, gelatine and so on is against the Bavarian purity law hence I am not allowed to use it! Because obviously German beer is the worlds best beer for a reason ;)
I've had no luck with biofine, had no effect
Have you tried adding it when the beer is cold?
@@TheApartmentBrewer ah, no
Another great video, have got some good tips from your brewing channel.
With the floating dip tube assembly, what I do is make sure your end assembly is just touching the bottom and a bit on setting up empty keg. I have modded the assembly with a small stainless steel 304 weight placed inside filter end and works perfectly , addresses the foaming issues end assembly finds it's way too the center of the 13gallon/50L Sanky keg. If your silicone tubeing is too long it will sit on the side of the keg and leave beer behind.
I use gelatin as it's cheap and effective, I use a large 300ml catheter syringe 💉 , small piece of vinyl tubing, C02 connector , assemble.
Cold crash the keg, Clean and sanitize Catheter syringe 💉 assembly and suck up gelatin mixture and purge any oxygen out, release pressure in keg with red safety valve and inject keg with gelatin mixture 👌.
That syringe method is exactly what I use!
This video is twice as long as it needs to be! Lol
What would you recommend cutting?
@@TheApartmentBrewer Please don't listen to people asking u to shorten. Those of us that don't have 20 years experience want to have the details included. I already know some of what I saw, but about 20% I didn't. Also, sometimes just a sentence makes a light come on and I'm ar better off than had I not seen the video.
Put it on a faster speed. Go to the chapter list and skip around. Put the video on as you're doing something else. You don't have to stare at the screen constantly. Then, if you hear something important to you, give more attention. But don't tell him to leave stuff out! We all learn from the details. I don't care what level one considers themselves. He could probably cut it down by just listing the procedures/products on a blank screen for two minutes and not speaking. But u need to know why and how and when. And comparisons and personal opinion. Jeez, if u can't roll thru a few minutes of video, how can u wait a month and a half for a beer to be finished?
😎👍🏻👍🏻
🍺🍺🍺🍺🍺
Cheers! Thanks for watching!
Some hops make hazy beer
Агар-агар лучше и дешевле желатина.
Good suggestion!
Embraze the haze!
Nothing wrong with it if you like it, but I love looking at a clear beer!
did not discuss cold crashing at all, none of this helps those that do not keg but only bottle.
Not true. The only thing that changes with bottling vs kegging is cold side finings. They still work if you bottle, but you would need to add the cold side finings during a fermenter cold crash. If you don't want to do that, clarityferm is your best bet. Every other thing doesn't matter if you bottle or keg
Damnit! Stop releasing interesting videos, I'm trying to edit!
Haha I sensed you needed to take a break!
Do you actually have celiacs? Did a doctor tell you that? To any viewer
I'll tell you what is hazy, your aperture, great content as usual but I'm not a big fan of the brluryness,
It's not the aperture but the focus one, you know what I mean
i know this video isn't for me. Hate is too strong word, but i don't like lagers.. most of them are simply watery.. clearness of beer is also most of time minus factor. thick and hazy is better x)
Someone get this person a Baltic porter or a doppelbock lol. Kidding, to each their own, u just prefer the way clear beers catch light and play with color