Audi A4 Removing Intake Manifold
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- Опубліковано 6 лис 2016
- In this video I will show you how to remove the intake manifold in order to clean the intake valves on a B7 Audi A4. Because of direct injection, many Audis and VWs suffer from carbon build-up. You can read about what that is here:
www.thetruthaboutcars.com/2012...
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I tried following a repair manual but ended up needing to do more work than was specified. Here is what I followed:
-disconnect all electrical connectors necessary
-disconnect fuel line and plug open connections
-disconnect hose connections from valve cover
-remove bolts from coolant pipe
-remove bolts from oil line
-remove both fuel lines from high pressure fuel pump
-remove intake hose from throttle body
-disconnect electrical connector from fuel pressure sensor behind throttle body
-pull dipstick and remove dipstick tube
-remove bolts for manifold support bracket
-Carefully pull off manifold from head
-additional steps maybe be required
You can try these steps as well. - Авто та транспорт
Thanks for the video. Helped a lot. Did a head job, intake manifold replacement, and turbo/exhaust manifold replacement. Couldn't have done with out these videos.
Bro thank you so much I couldn’t of done it without this video. Im truly grateful.
Glad it helped
Just want to say thank you. Helped me a ton do the injectors on my B7.
R u in Canada by chance I need help with mine 😭
Your videos help alot
Great Tutorial. Thank you for sharing
Very helpful videos. Thanks
Thank you so much! (also what is the music in the background?)
I'd recommend taking out the plugs and cranking it over as a final step - just in case the cleaner seeps past the valve somehow. Hydrolocking the engine isn't good.
Did you clean out the intake manifold while you had it out?
Thank you for this video. I may need to perform this on my B7 one day and your video really helps!
One observation/suggestion.... Why didn't you remove the coolant pipe running across the top of the manifold? It surely looks like it's in the way and you struggled around it. I watched a few other videos where the person removed it as well as the HP fuel pump and PCV valve. ??
+A CE I left the coolant pipe because I didn't want to drain the system. It certainly wouldn't hurt to drain the system. And if it hasn't been done in a while, this would be a perfect time to do a flush and refill with new coolant
What do you think of adding an baffled oil catch can to the PVC system to prevent or greatly reduce this problem.
I see amazon has one by vincos universal 400ml oil catch can, its only 34.88$. I'm thinking of getting an Audi s6 v10 and I don't want to be doing this on a v10!
I saw Scotty kilmer had a video on the oil catch can, so I thought it looked like a good idea.
I think the catch can might be a good idea. Not sure about cheaping out on that though. I'd suggest checking out the reviews
Awesome video. I'm currently dealing with a pretty consistent misfire in my 3rd and 4th cylinder. The check engine light is saying its a vacuum hose leak, but I can't find one. I read that sometimes it's the fuel injector. Wondering if you have any thoughts. Thanks
I'm not sure what you have already checked but I would start with the basics; mark the coil packs and swap them around, clear the codes. If the misfires come back in the new locations, that is your problem. If they stay in the same cylinders, swap the spark plugs around. If the misfire follows, get new spark plugs. If none of that works, then you could move the injectors around. Maybe some are sticking open or closed under acceleration. I'm not sure what codes you have, but that's where I would start
Good advice. Thanks for help.
Hi i like your video man.but i have a question do you have to drain the fuel or on the fuel pressure line?
Thank you
I kept a rag over the nut when I loosened it. To catch any spray and dripping fuel. Theres not too much there
Thanks for the video, can you tell me where the second video is showing how to clean the valves? Thanks a ton. Id like to have both videos before starting the job.
+William penrose the video is posted right after this one. ua-cam.com/video/EOFVp2jJwWU/v-deo.html
AUDImotive oh hahahaha.. I hadn't made it all the way, I was about 80% thru when I realized there was a lot to do so I should get the rest of the video before continuing lol.. Thanks bro.. Again, I really appreciate ur video and help.
+William penrose no problem. Good luck
Is there another way to remove pressure/fuel from the fuel line and HPFP without making the engine stall via fuse removal? It won't damage anything?
+UrbanExplorer there are other ways to remove the fuel pressure but no matter what, it involves letting the car stall. I don't see why it would cause damage, there is simply no fuel going into the cylinder to ignite, and the car stops running. There are lots of DIYs on the forums and they all involve stalling the car
Will dirty valves cause a misfire? Im getting a misfire from my second cylinder. Changed the coils and plugs, just trying to figure out what it could be.
Yes carbon buildup can cause misfire
Hi what's the tube you pulled out at time 4:11? I broke mine. It was so brittle. How did you disconnect the locking mechanism? I didn't have to disconnect the cam sensor plug. I have 2007 audi a4 quattro 2.0L turbo. Is your model different from mine? Thanks.
I know they changed the design of the pump between the earlier and later B7 2.0T. That hose is for the PCV system. ECS Tuning sells a silicone replacement hose
Is there a video to remove the crankshaft? I need to replace the intake valves which were bent when timing belt broke. Bc of this video I know I can remove the intake manifold.
I don't have a video for a crankshaft. But why do you need to remove the crankshaft for bent valves? Do you mean camshaft?
@@audimotive It must be the head that I am trying to remove, where the intake valves are. I am slowly figuring out how to remove the manifold. And it looks like the catalytic converter also must be removed. Your video is extremely illuminating.
To replace the valves you will need to remove the exhaust and then the cylinder head. The camshaft cradle will also need to be removed at take off the camshaft to gain access to the valves
does the banjo bolt for the high fuel pressure pump have a washer?
It's been a while, but I'm pretty sure there were 2 washers, 1 on either side of the fuel line end
@@audimotive yeah man because it tightens all the way down but it just spins at the very last bit before it can catch and snug
My mechanic wants 700-800 for INSTALL. Said its a 4.5 hour job. What a JOKE
I have a misfire in cylinder 2. I’ve already done the coil and spark plug check and it’s not that. I think my injectors are clogged. Is there a way I can clean them myself and fix the misfire?
Sometimes you can clean then by spraying brake clean through it. There are some videos about that. I haven't done that. There are also places to can send the injectors and they have a machine that cleans them. Not sure about the cost of that though
But that could also be carbon buildup on the intake valves
AUDImotive okay thank you. I did do a carbon clean up in the intake valves so I know it’s not that either. I’m going to try to get them cleaned professionally and see if that fixed it
Why make a “removing intake manifold video” if you’re just gonna put all the useful information in a different video
It would have been nice to show us how you clean it as well. I haven't find any reliable source on this subject yet. Some people say you can't clean it like this or that way. This is my main concern right now. How am I suppose to get it clean? :) Thank you
+I'm 1OAK what are you trying to clean? I have a video to clean the carbon off the valves
The intake manifold itself.
+I'm 1OAK that's interesting. I didn't clean the manifold itself. I haven't heard of people cleaning it
It's not necessary but it has the same issue as the valves. Just take longer time until you ever notice it. (if you ever) But I just realize you got a plastic intake, not aluminium. So forget what I just said. Seems though that blasting is the best way to clean your metal intake. Good channel anyway!
+I'm 1OAK thanks. I'm happy you enjoyed the time spent watching. Do they even make metal intake manifolds anymore? The last audi I can think of, is the 1.8t that had the aluminum manifold. After that, I think they went to plastic
I have gas in oil...and a hole above top number one intake column
Why not remove throttle body? I feel way easier than pulling alternator
I am having THE HARDEST TIME lining the injectors back up. Im trying to reinstall the intake manifold and damn the injectors wont all line up... anyone have tips?????
Did you ever figure this out man I’m having the same problem
@dennisolson6051 yes, I just slowly adjusted the angle as I pressed the intake to the head. If I remember correctly, looking at it, I felt it should go on at a certain angle, but in reality, it needed more angle. I struggled for a while! I even walked away and came back to it. Also make sure you lube the fuel injector o rings.
I also remember it took a GOOD SOLID PUSH . more force than I thought it would need.
You kinda sorta skipped or cut out all the parts I actually needed to see, like the actual removal, you were unscrewing the bottom bolts and then magically cut to the4 fully removed intake. That whole in between segment is the part I am legitimately having a hard time with, everything is removed but I can't tell what angle to pull the intake out at without damaging anything because it does not just come straight off all easy like that...
Once you have all the nuts and bolts off, if comes off fairly simple. I know I had a tough time with the injector o-rings
I am having the same issue as yours. All bolts and screws removed but still can't seem to be able to pull the intake manifold out. Were you able to finally figure it out? Thanks!
link to camfollower video?
cam follower video is linked in the video
I've seen people do it with a wire brush on a drill - would you see any issues with that?
+UrbanExplorer I will definitely be using a wire brush on a drill next time I do this. Just make sure the brush is a soft metal, like brass, so you don't scratch up the valves or head. JHM has a brush supposedly for this application. Might try them next time I do this
Also, you can order a kit with all kinds of wire brushes for your drill, and the pack I ordered had 3 types of metals, one set is specifically for use with aluminum heads such as this one.You do NOT want to use steel to brush on aluminum or vice versa. Steel dust+aluminum dust will make thermite... so be VERY careful what you use on the aluminum components.
there no suction off of this tube! my oil cap has suction and the car is running bad. i have replaced the pcv valve and the breather hose (the one connected to the turbo) and im still having the same issue! could this hose be clogged and causing this? i just bought this car i have driven it like 40 miles and i would really like to drive it more lol any help would be great!
P.S.
-there is what looks to be a connector valve connected to the tube that's connected to the brake booster. as seen bellow. Theres no clamp and its just kinda sitting in place could this be something? (i took it apart for visual purposes)
bradsaudi.weebly.com/uploads/8/8/1/2/88124712/20170831-104307_orig.jpg
bradsaudi.weebly.com/uploads/8/8/1/2/88124712/20170825-133817_1_orig.jpg
+Bradley R. With the car running, does it change how it runs when you remove the oil cap? I know on my car, it starts running rough without the oil cap or dip stick. If it always runs rough, I'd say you have a vacuum leak somewhere. Best bet would be to do a smoke test. Unfortunately I don't have a video for that
Left out so much necessary info wtf
quit making so many links to different videos. Oh my GOD.. screw it i'll do it myself. holy sh*t