Man do u love going back and watching these old vids. Great work Tom. Maybe if you ever do a cleaning video some of these original builds should be highlighted.
Excellent video. I just got an airbrush kit and am going to try my hand at airbrushing for the first time hopefully this weekend if the weather looks to be any good. It's been so darn humid the past few weeks i've only been brush painting parts and pieces, etc. Previously i'd tried to use Testors Model Master "aotomotive lacquer aerosol can system" on a Revell Lamborghini Countach model and had very poor results. But I think that was due in combination to both my technique, sloppy/no prep, etc. Going to see if I can actually do it the correct way this time lol. I've already washed off the parts and let them dry. so hopefully mold release won't be an issue. Next will be primer. I just have to decide if I want to use the Tamiya Fine White aerosol can. Or the Allclad II paintbrush primer that I picked up last week. I also picked up a box of plastic spoons to test out on :) so we'll see how all that goes.
hallis1 Wichever primer you decide to use, I would reccomend using the same brand for color and clear aswell, just to prevent the paints from atacking eachother. Good luck!
how do you keep accurate body lines like the door jams when applying so much paint and clear? Don't they disappear? I love watching these videos...just amazing artistry.
Awesome finish! If I may ask, what is your technique for being able to maintain a perfect balance of airflow and paint out of the nozzle? I hope I didn't try to be too technical on the question....
caudleryan123 Sorry man, Thats above my paygrade XD Kidding....:P Well i actually have no idea, this may sound lame but i just go with the flow. I don't even think about it anymore. I press the trigger for air and pull it back depending on how much paint i want to have it flow out. I have been doing this for the best part of 6/7 years now. My first 5/6 where really bad and one day i just got it and it stuck with me. Hope this helps, if not maybe give me an example of the problems you run in to so i can kinda see what you meant. Thanks!:D
I think enamel is well on its way out. Acrylic is sooo much easier to use and cleanup and dries in 10 minutes. If you watch his videos, Tom uses lacquer-based primer (Zero Paints) and lacquer-based paint (Zero Paints, Gravity Colors) for his car bodies, and acrylic paint for all the detail work. The only place he uses enamel paint is Humbrol black for the floorboards before he adds powdered flocking to simulate carpet. Everything else is pretty much acrylic. He's also done a model with Tamiya lacquer-based primer, Tamiya acrylic paint, and Tamiya TS-13 lacquer clear just to demonstrate that cars CAN be done with a rattle spray can rather than airbrush and still get a good result. Honestly, you can get decent results with airbrush paints sold at the local hobby shop IF they are thinned properly and sprayed in several light coats. Heck some people use Pledge Floor Care (Future/Finish) as a clear coat and are happy with the results.
+Morgan Feldon I am using water based wicked & House of colors paint. How would you suggest thinning it? Mine have thinner floating on the primer. It won't mix enough. Thanks for everyone's help
Liquitex Wicked Paints are already thinned and airbrush ready. Assuming your airbrush is receiving enough air pressure (try 20-35 psi) then you can add up to 10% High Performance Reducer (Auto Air Colors #4012, Wicked Colors #W500) which is their official thinner product. I've seen some DIY recipes online on how to make your own thinner for this paint that include clear auto glass cleaner, isopropyl alcohol, and glycerin. House of Kolor sells their own reducers -- RU310 Fast Dry, RU311 Medium Dry, RU312 Slow Dry, RU313 Very Slow Dry and RU300 VOC exempt.
Hello. What kind of air compressor are you using on this video? Looks very quiet! Regarding airbrushes, have you ever tried the Iwata line? If you did, wich one is better in your opnion? Tks and nice job indeed!!!
+Luciano Santana Its a special airbrush compressor with a big air tank. EuroTech 20A nope this is my 3rd airbrush the first 2 where from Revell and they where really bad then i bought this one and no others have come yet.
Thank you for taking the time to make this video. It appears that you move from one coat to the next without much wait time in between (except when changing from primer to color and then to clear). Is that correct?
That is correct. I wait about 3 or 4 minutes inbetween coats. Most of the time i paint more then just the body. All the other parts i paint take about 4 minutes to paint. so when those are done i give the body another coat. With the paint i use you don't have to wait long at all it dries really fast. Its touch dry in about a minute.
Hey there, I also build revell models but the painting always goes wrong. I don't have an air brush so I do it 'by hand'. I also buy the revell paint. So is there anything that you suggest to maybe make it look better or just buy an air brush? I have been looking for one but they're very expensive.
Well first of all when brushing its best to thin the paint down, and do 2 coats instead of just 1, sometimes even 3. i don't use revell paints because i don't think they are any good. I use Tamiya Valleyo and Zero Paints(airbrush only) and for the best results i would suggesting to get an airbush, but if your serious about the hobby buy a good one the first time. and don't waste money on cheap stuff.
I'm using a 0.5 airbrush but your paint seems to spread a lot more. Is that because of my spaying at 25 bar or is it the spraying distance. From what distance are you spraying?
I hope you mean 25 PSI or 2.5 bar.... Lol, The spraying distance has influence to how wide the spray is. This also varies per airbrush and nozzle setup. I don't know the exact distance i spray from my model but is think its about 10 cm thats about 4 inches
thanks mate all noted i can get zero paints here in the uk so all helps as i have never used an airbrush so any hints and tips for painting models will be appreciated
How much did that machine cost you? I just started and doing this car. I am using a air can thing that came with paint. It does okay, but I have never seen clear coat come with these.
It does say that on the bottle, but that has to be as mistake as this is cellulose thinners based paint. I just checked and the new bottle does not say acrylic. Not sure why this in does though.....
It is the botle shown at 0:09 in de video, Champagne Silver/Metallic blue It was meant for a Gulf livery. One part champagne silver and the other in this blue www.hiroboy.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=1770
The Spray booth i use is a Sparmax SB-88 Please visit SPARMAX store (North America). store.sparmaxair.com/ Please visit SPARMAX store (Europe). www.sparmaxair.de/ www.sparmaxair.de/ You can directly contact the SPARMAX team for more information about product availability & sales @ info@sparmaxair.com I have also made my own home made spray booth: ua-cam.com/video/ezPDyMA9Q40/v-deo.html
Some sandpaper can be used dry or wet. When lightly sanding a painted model, I cut out a small square of sandpaper and periodically dip it in distilled water. This way the sandpaper grit doesn't get clogged with the pigments. Instead I can just dab it on a paper towel and the sandpaper is ready to use again. Also it is much less harsh on the paint job.
Man do u love going back and watching these old vids. Great work Tom. Maybe if you ever do a cleaning video some of these original builds should be highlighted.
Nice work...Lighting and paint viscosity , 2 of the most important in my book.
Just got back into modeling because of my girlfriends little brother, your paint job is outstanding
Awesome talent. Thanks for the video.
impressive ! your airbrush skills amaze me ! thanks for sharing ;-)
Well I'm amazed there are gonna be a lot more cars in the purple pit before I get there. Awesome just awesome
Wish I could like this video twice
Wow! I wish I could use a airbrush like you, my results are not so good, but practicing....
love that blue i like intermediate to dark colors because of how deep and rich they are reminds me of testors saphire blue metalllic
Such a pretty color too...
Fantastic work as usual. I love your video's👍
Nice, i have a 1965 Buick Riviera by AMT 1/25 just waiting for some love. Nice job all around.
That is absolutely stunning, that is all I can say, is your primer from Zero Paints as well. Cheers
yes it is
that looks awesome, great work :)!!!!!!!
Excellent video. I just got an airbrush kit and am going to try my hand at airbrushing for the first time hopefully this weekend if the weather looks to be any good. It's been so darn humid the past few weeks i've only been brush painting parts and pieces, etc. Previously i'd tried to use Testors Model Master "aotomotive lacquer aerosol can system" on a Revell Lamborghini Countach model and had very poor results. But I think that was due in combination to both my technique, sloppy/no prep, etc. Going to see if I can actually do it the correct way this time lol. I've already washed off the parts and let them dry. so hopefully mold release won't be an issue. Next will be primer. I just have to decide if I want to use the Tamiya Fine White aerosol can. Or the Allclad II paintbrush primer that I picked up last week. I also picked up a box of plastic spoons to test out on :) so we'll see how all that goes.
hallis1 Wichever primer you decide to use, I would reccomend using the same brand for color and clear aswell, just to prevent the paints from atacking eachother. Good luck!
Wow,,!!!!! Great vídeo,!!!!! Thanks,!!!! Frank Jr.
Great work, please do a video on your BMF work.
The next time a project i'm doing that needs BMF done ill make a video. :) Thanks
Ryche W+ Yes it will, but wthout it will be just fine aswell ;)
how do you keep accurate body lines like the door jams when applying so much paint and clear? Don't they disappear? I love watching these videos...just amazing artistry.
lgmnow kondo if you apply to much paint, they will dissappear. Thats the trick, to not apply to much paint
of course :) So, you don't scribe the panel lines to make them deeper, or anything of that nature? What about running flat black through the lines?
+lgmnow kondo i do scribe them out before i paint.
You can run black paint through them to highlight them a bit more
Awesome finish! If I may ask, what is your technique for being able to maintain a perfect balance of airflow and paint out of the nozzle? I hope I didn't try to be too technical on the question....
caudleryan123 Sorry man, Thats above my paygrade XD
Kidding....:P
Well i actually have no idea, this may sound lame but i just go with the flow. I don't even think about it anymore. I press the trigger for air and pull it back depending on how much paint i want to have it flow out. I have been doing this for the best part of 6/7 years now. My first 5/6 where really bad and one day i just got it and it stuck with me.
Hope this helps, if not maybe give me an example of the problems you run in to so i can kinda see what you meant.
Thanks!:D
I notice that you tape your stand to the inside of your model. I use blue poster tack and roll it out and use it to hold my model in place.
Nice shade of blue for that 'cuda...how did it look when it was finished? Have you tried using any pearl (mica) powders mixed into your clear coats?
Do you have any videos that show start to finish? Mixing, Enamel vs acrylic, paint brand ect.
no
I think enamel is well on its way out. Acrylic is sooo much easier to use and cleanup and dries in 10 minutes. If you watch his videos, Tom uses lacquer-based primer (Zero Paints) and lacquer-based paint (Zero Paints, Gravity Colors) for his car bodies, and acrylic paint for all the detail work. The only place he uses enamel paint is Humbrol black for the floorboards before he adds powdered flocking to simulate carpet. Everything else is pretty much acrylic.
He's also done a model with Tamiya lacquer-based primer, Tamiya acrylic paint, and Tamiya TS-13 lacquer clear just to demonstrate that cars CAN be done with a rattle spray can rather than airbrush and still get a good result. Honestly, you can get decent results with airbrush paints sold at the local hobby shop IF they are thinned properly and sprayed in several light coats. Heck some people use Pledge Floor Care (Future/Finish) as a clear coat and are happy with the results.
+Morgan Feldon I am using water based wicked & House of colors paint. How would you suggest thinning it? Mine have thinner floating on the primer. It won't mix enough. Thanks for everyone's help
Liquitex Wicked Paints are already thinned and airbrush ready. Assuming your airbrush is receiving enough air pressure (try 20-35 psi) then you can add up to 10% High Performance Reducer (Auto Air Colors #4012, Wicked Colors #W500) which is their official thinner product. I've seen some DIY recipes online on how to make your own thinner for this paint that include clear auto glass cleaner, isopropyl alcohol, and glycerin.
House of Kolor sells their own reducers -- RU310 Fast Dry, RU311 Medium Dry, RU312 Slow Dry, RU313 Very Slow Dry and RU300 VOC exempt.
Thanks. I have been using it already but at a ratio of 2:1. I will make the correction. I am glad someone took the time. Thanks again!!
Hello. What kind of air compressor are you using on this video? Looks very quiet!
Regarding airbrushes, have you ever tried the Iwata line? If you did, wich one is better in your opnion? Tks and nice job indeed!!!
+Luciano Santana Its a special airbrush compressor with a big air tank. EuroTech 20A nope this is my 3rd airbrush the first 2 where from Revell and they where really bad then i bought this one and no others have come yet.
How did you make the chrome friezes?
Does the BMF stay intact better when spraying clear over it?
very cool is really needed to Prime the model also, I have heard mixed reviews. Also can you do a video on the metal foil
+DEAN FREES yes it is.
Already did a couple. They are on my channel
What is that holder called?
The one that looks like millennium falcon with a rotating thing.
I was looking for that for years.
Tamiya paint stand
Thanks! I searched and found it.
doin that model right now. ive chosen light gunmetal grey which is metallic.. is flattening metallic before clear a big no?
+Bronson Henness I do not toucht the color coats. i only sand the primers and if needed the clear afterwards before polishing.
+The Scalemodeling Channel ok thanks
Where did u get ur spray booth
Hello where did you by the tool to clamp your car for spraying?
It's the Tamiya Spray Work Painting Stand Set
ok thank you ;-)
where did you bought the extraction instalation?
and the stand for you model body?
+Marijn Westhoeve ebay
Portable spray booth
Tamiya paint stand
It's a Sparmax Spray Booth. I believe it is sold in the US as the Testors Aztek Spray Booth. It's around $230.
Thank you for taking the time to make this video. It appears that you move from one coat to the next without much wait time in between (except when changing from primer to color and then to clear). Is that correct?
That is correct. I wait about 3 or 4 minutes inbetween coats. Most of the time i paint more then just the body. All the other parts i paint take about 4 minutes to paint. so when those are done i give the body another coat. With the paint i use you don't have to wait long at all it dries really fast. Its touch dry in about a minute.
Hey there,
I also build revell models but the painting always goes wrong.
I don't have an air brush so I do it 'by hand'.
I also buy the revell paint.
So is there anything that you suggest to maybe make it look better or just buy an air brush?
I have been looking for one but they're very expensive.
Well first of all when brushing its best to thin the paint down, and do 2 coats instead of just 1, sometimes even 3.
i don't use revell paints because i don't think they are any good. I use Tamiya Valleyo and Zero Paints(airbrush only)
and for the best results i would suggesting to get an airbush, but if your serious about the hobby buy a good one the first time. and don't waste money on cheap stuff.
How do you get the hood to fit right after all of that paint and clear coat?
I sand the edges befor i start painting to make it a bit smalles
I'm using a 0.5 airbrush but your paint seems to spread a lot more. Is that because of my spaying at 25 bar or is it the spraying distance. From what distance are you spraying?
I hope you mean 25 PSI or 2.5 bar.... Lol, The spraying distance has influence to how wide the spray is. This also varies per airbrush and nozzle setup. I don't know the exact distance i spray from my model but is think its about 10 cm thats about 4 inches
I never see you wiping the tip. How do you prevent tip drying? Polish the needle?
+Mach1rulz simple. I don't have tip dry. I close the needle first before releasing air
what pressure do you spray the zero paints at and do you thin them any more than what they come in the jar ?
+Dave Garrett 14 psi
Mostly straight out of the bottle
thanks mate all noted i can get zero paints here in the uk so all helps as i have never used an airbrush so any hints and tips for painting models will be appreciated
What PSI are you using on your airbrush and are you using the same PSI for both the primer and top-coat?
35 psi, always for every type of paint and a 0,4 mm needle
Wich needle you use for painting body's like these?
0,2 or 0,4 most of the time i use the 0,4
How much did that machine cost you? I just started and doing this car. I am using a air can thing that came with paint. It does okay, but I have never seen clear coat come with these.
+TheCigarGuy The compressor i have ia pretty exspensive, i think it was around €350,- the airbrush is €150,-
What psi are you spraying at?
Is Zero paint acrylic ? or Enamel
I'm not sure if its either, But if id had 2 be one of those its would be Enamel. It is Cellulose thinners based. And can be cleaned off with Thinners.
Says acrylic on the bottle at the beginning of the video
It does say that on the bottle, but that has to be as mistake as this is cellulose thinners based paint. I just checked and the new bottle does not say acrylic. Not sure why this in does though.....
It is cellulose- rather than water-based acrylic. Acrylic does not always = water.
what kind of noozle are used to Paint? fine or heavy?
fine, with a 0,4 mm needle
where is the rest of the vids for this build
There are no more, back then i did not do full build video's
Ok thanks, thought I was just missing them. Great videos btw
with waht you painted? you used Revell? Thank you!
zero paints
What kind of air brush?¿
Kawasaki450 ua-cam.com/video/iPkIbfDqL9s/v-deo.htmlm13s
Wow...Impressive!! What kind of paint did you use to allow you only a 1hr dry time before BMF?
Zeropaints available at hiroboy.com And BMF stands for Bare Metal Foil
Most acrylic paint is dry in 15-30 minutes.
I have a GTR, but the color I want like a metal , that I was not to use franc paint ?
There are water-based paint TAMIYA proportion to how article ?
W o w !!!!
What a Compressor do you use ?
+Marco Gemba eurotech 20a
what is the name of that blue color?
It is the botle shown at 0:09 in de video, Champagne Silver/Metallic blue It was meant for a Gulf livery. One part champagne silver and the other in this blue www.hiroboy.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=1770
Greetings and a question. Kind of brand you are using in primer, paint and clear. Very good videos. Move on. Frank
All Zero paints, The links can be found in the discription
what is your painting booth?
The Spray booth i use is a Sparmax SB-88
Please visit SPARMAX store (North America).
store.sparmaxair.com/
Please visit SPARMAX store (Europe).
www.sparmaxair.de/
www.sparmaxair.de/
You can directly contact the SPARMAX team for more information about product availability & sales @
info@sparmaxair.com
I have also made my own home made spray booth:
ua-cam.com/video/ezPDyMA9Q40/v-deo.html
Thank you!
what is your clear coat ratio?
10 ml clear
6 ml hardner
4 ml thinner
thanks :)
wet sand?
?
Some sandpaper can be used dry or wet. When lightly sanding a painted model, I cut out a small square of sandpaper and periodically dip it in distilled water. This way the sandpaper grit doesn't get clogged with the pigments. Instead I can just dab it on a paper towel and the sandpaper is ready to use again. Also it is much less harsh on the paint job.
What psi are you spraying at?
42