Extremely excited I was able to provide some assistance in getting your 0.2 nozzle prints looking extra clean. If anyone else needs help, don't hesitate to reach out!!
A trick I have found to "boost" print speed with smaller nozzles is to increase extrusion width for any layers I don't need the precision. I was able to (a long time ago, I haven't needed a smaller nozzle for awhile) print at 8 cubic mm/s using a stock v6 hotend which is faster than the draft settings a prusa mk3 uses. I was printing at line widths of 1.2mm for the inner walls and infill, so I only had two walls and the quality was fantastic. The other thing I highly recommend is printing at 75% of your nozzle size for your first layer height. I do that now for all nozzles and it makes the quality much much better and more consistent.
Fiber Laser not recommended for taking away material. You could mark filaments with fiber laser or UV laser but engraving/taking away material will just melt the plastic.
I am always amazed what topics you present and how detailed you analyze and solve the problems you found! It is always a pleasure to look into your content 👍🏼
Good tips… but I’ve done away with messy glue sticks. I use adhesion spray (basically hair spray) and never looked back: great adhesion on a heated plate, but pops right off when the plate cools. Especially good for PETG. I agree on the slowness of the 0.2 nozzle. I print mostly structural parts, and might add some inlayed text. Comes out great (I run a Prusa Mk4s), but takes forever. For these kind of prints I would love a multi toolhead machine. Maybe one day 😊
Surprised to see a video on problems with a 0.2 nozzle. I've printed some really small text on the A1 and A1 mini with a 0.2 with no issue on the standard build plate and a carbon effect one.
Cool first layer sacrifice trick! Didn't think of that. Something I've done on Glass bed with Elmer's glue stick (super slick shine on first layer) is to print the black part with 1 or 2 layers and have the letters hollow. Then print the next color the rest of the way. This is like an "engraving". With such small letters the bridging didn't matter to the style. Cool technique though!
Slice gap closing radius and Resolution also heavily affect how detailed you can go in my experience! When I was trying to print bearings with 0.02mm and 0.01mm tolerance on my Plus4, I had to adjust those lower to not have the print fuse in the slicer due to the gaps being too small.
Rafts are one of the things I found bambu's support for PLA filament to be super useful for. It works equally well on PLA and PETG. You don't need to create an object, just set to 1 raft layer and then specify support for PLA as both your Support/Raft base and Support/raft interface. I generally try to avoid printing .2, but whenever I do that works very well and it removes extremely easily. On another note, I've looked at that extruder upgrade but having to lubricate it makes me uneasy. The risk of oil/grease being that close to my filament bothers me. I might be worrying too much, look forward to hearing any updates on that.
I’m gobsmacked. I was screaming at my phone lol 😂 but it turned out … an option. I would never have fathomed such a solution, quite the creative method that seems so outlandish for those of us who don’t sand and paint our prints, but at the same time so DUH that would work! Sacrificial layer indeed! I can’t help but feel there’s gotta be a more direct way but yes, as you stated - PLA does this easily, PETG not so much. Thanks for the EYE and MIND opening technique!!!!!!!!
It pays to do some housework while it's swapping colour on the first layer - use a toothbrush and tweezers to make sure everything is neat and tidy before the second colour starts. The order that you print the text & background matters, I find printing the dark colour first is usually but not always better. Finally, acetone smoothed ABS makes really nice text.
In Bambu/Orca, it is set such that objects automatically snap to the plate for me.... how do I disable that and where is the drop command? I couldn't find answers on the Bambu Wiki 😕
In OrcaSlicer only parts can fly. Test it: add a object to your build plate, right click on it, choose "add part" and select your object you don't want to snap to the ground.
I did this to print coins and board game pieces with detailed faces and boy howdy was it nearly impossible to remove but did work, I’d recommend the water soluble PVA before the new PETG+PLA stuff though, it’s really gummy.
How do i even Design Text in another color in CAD? Do i have to cut the text out and then design it back in with a 0.4mm gap between the text and the Model? I dont even now how set a multicolor print in the slicer 😂
For that sacrificial first layer, what about using PLA but with PETG HF? The HF has some PLA or PLA-like additive to it, which I think iss why they now offer Support for PLA/PETG combined.
The issue with Bambu lab Printers printing text is that they always print the text first, you cannot choose the order. All other designs work better with printing the outline first, then the text as you can extrude the finer details into the open areas like a plastic injection mold. Bambu still has yet to allow anyone to change the order in which colors are printed which is standard on almost every other slicer. You can "trick" the slicer into printing the text second by having a large two-layer object (larger than the surface area of the outline) on the print the same color as the text. This wastes filament, but it's the only way to make it work. Bambu Labs really doesn't care about text quality currently.
I have the opposite issue when using PETG. I have a high temp smooth plate with a destroyed side because PETG sticks too well to it. Turning up the bed temp makes it stick even better. At 80-90C the PEI surface will clearly show scarring from the parts if you can remove them at all. Cleaning with IPA makes it stick poorly because it just smears the finger oils around and removes very little of it. I like Dawn Power Wash rubbed with a fresh paper towel and then a hot water rinse. Dry with another fresh paper towel. Don't touch the plate with your fingers. The high temp smooth plate really shows finger grease. IPA (at least the 90% stuff) also seems to soften the surface of the PEI making it tacky for a time. This probably isn't good for the surface. Did you consider using clear PETG for your first layer or even all the light transmittal portion of the print? It would be brighter and give a nice diffused appearance.
I see a bl logo - I put a dislike, then also go another step to mark as "Not interested -> I don't like the video" and "Don't recommend the channel". bl shills are everywhere, ffs.
Why do people call PETG "Pet-g"? We say P-L-A, we say A-B-S, so why are so many people saying Pet-G vs P-E-T-G? Personally, I think there's british and australian youtubers that are the go-to sources on printing and their regional dialect has caused confusion. It's P-E-T-G...thank you for attending my Ted Talk.
Everyone loves a good three letter abbreviation with clear, well defined letter sounds. A fourth letter is pushing it but not exactly a deal breaker, but it's the E right after the P that kills it. To pronounce it clearly you need to leave a deliberate pause or risk slurring it together into P-T-G. It makes it just awkward enough to pronounce quickly that "Pet-G" evolved as a snappier alternative.
wasnt the market selling this thing at the idea its perfect right out of the box? sounds like an expensive waste. only cool thing about it is the ability to have an ams
I Just wondered what you mean but now i got IT: the title of the Video, Here for me IT IS in German and it IS really a Nightmare - please stay in English as Long as the Translation ist so worse!
Stick 0.2mm nozzle on, use quality Bambu filament, print and be done. Your modified third party printer will never work as well as the standard one and changes all perimeters.
bro do me a favour and turn of these fancy schmancy material renderings... they look so out of place in a professional CAD environment and it must clutters your view and takes away from the actually important stuff... leave that shit to the Blender Videographer type of 3D modelers
Extremely excited I was able to provide some assistance in getting your 0.2 nozzle prints looking extra clean. If anyone else needs help, don't hesitate to reach out!!
Respect to you for this technique! 🫡
Really like that you give credit where credit is due.
A trick I have found to "boost" print speed with smaller nozzles is to increase extrusion width for any layers I don't need the precision. I was able to (a long time ago, I haven't needed a smaller nozzle for awhile) print at 8 cubic mm/s using a stock v6 hotend which is faster than the draft settings a prusa mk3 uses. I was printing at line widths of 1.2mm for the inner walls and infill, so I only had two walls and the quality was fantastic. The other thing I highly recommend is printing at 75% of your nozzle size for your first layer height. I do that now for all nozzles and it makes the quality much much better and more consistent.
Things like this is why we need more specific filament profiles within bambu slicer
Fiber Laser not recommended for taking away material. You could mark filaments with fiber laser or UV laser but engraving/taking away material will just melt the plastic.
I am always amazed what topics you present and how detailed you analyze and solve the problems you found!
It is always a pleasure to look into your content 👍🏼
Another tip I got recent on Reddit is to change the color to print the black in this case first and then fill in the white.
This is what I would have done first, but I’ve never printed PETG in 0.2mm before so I’ll have to try both and compare now!
*now= whenever my X1Cs have a free few hours between production and whatever random thing I’m printing for funzies lol
Learning the idea of same type of material sacrificial layer was worth the watch! I have added to my tool belt for the future:)
Same!
Good tips… but I’ve done away with messy glue sticks. I use adhesion spray (basically hair spray) and never looked back: great adhesion on a heated plate, but pops right off when the plate cools. Especially good for PETG.
I agree on the slowness of the 0.2 nozzle. I print mostly structural parts, and might add some inlayed text. Comes out great (I run a Prusa Mk4s), but takes forever. For these kind of prints I would love a multi toolhead machine. Maybe one day 😊
Your first mistake was printing my arch nemesis... PETG. Blech! Stick to ABS and get styrene poisoning like a REAL die-hard ;)
Why didn’t you print your channel name out something of yours rather than a company brand? Anyhow thanks for your awesome videos.
Because sponsor's money
@@dmitryplatonovthis aint sponsored
he said later he might change it but he wanted it to be stock
Missed opportunity
Surprised to see a video on problems with a 0.2 nozzle. I've printed some really small text on the A1 and A1 mini with a 0.2 with no issue on the standard build plate and a carbon effect one.
Interesting. I’ve never had any issues with any of my 0.2 mm nozzle prints. I wonder why you did.
I was asking myself the same thing.
My 20mm tokens with detailed icons prints just perfectly on any bed.
Cool first layer sacrifice trick! Didn't think of that. Something I've done on Glass bed with Elmer's glue stick (super slick shine on first layer) is to print the black part with 1 or 2 layers and have the letters hollow. Then print the next color the rest of the way. This is like an "engraving". With such small letters the bridging didn't matter to the style. Cool technique though!
WOW. Lots to take in on this video. I am going to try some of these settings as well. Thanks and great video.
What tool is that at 6:03 for removing the print?
Slice gap closing radius and Resolution also heavily affect how detailed you can go in my experience! When I was trying to print bearings with 0.02mm and 0.01mm tolerance on my Plus4, I had to adjust those lower to not have the print fuse in the slicer due to the gaps being too small.
Dang that final product was nice!
Rafts are one of the things I found bambu's support for PLA filament to be super useful for. It works equally well on PLA and PETG. You don't need to create an object, just set to 1 raft layer and then specify support for PLA as both your Support/Raft base and Support/raft interface. I generally try to avoid printing .2, but whenever I do that works very well and it removes extremely easily.
On another note, I've looked at that extruder upgrade but having to lubricate it makes me uneasy. The risk of oil/grease being that close to my filament bothers me. I might be worrying too much, look forward to hearing any updates on that.
I’m gobsmacked. I was screaming at my phone lol 😂 but it turned out … an option. I would never have fathomed such a solution, quite the creative method that seems so outlandish for those of us who don’t sand and paint our prints, but at the same time so DUH that would work! Sacrificial layer indeed! I can’t help but feel there’s gotta be a more direct way but yes, as you stated - PLA does this easily, PETG not so much. Thanks for the EYE and MIND opening technique!!!!!!!!
You should reach out to Practical print Friday. He has just been testing his fiber laser on different filaments.
It pays to do some housework while it's swapping colour on the first layer - use a toothbrush and tweezers to make sure everything is neat and tidy before the second colour starts. The order that you print the text & background matters, I find printing the dark colour first is usually but not always better. Finally, acetone smoothed ABS makes really nice text.
Thank you for the content friend !!!
Hi,
What is that blue insert in the tool head of your X1C? (visible a 1m30s)
Why did you turn off motor noise in the calibration?
love it, thanks for the ideas :)
In Bambu/Orca, it is set such that objects automatically snap to the plate for me.... how do I disable that and where is the drop command? I couldn't find answers on the Bambu Wiki 😕
In OrcaSlicer only parts can fly. Test it: add a object to your build plate, right click on it, choose "add part" and select your object you don't want to snap to the ground.
In Bambu studio, you just assemble (group) any additional item, and then you can move an item’s z axis up
@@Duevel(in Bambu you just assemble first and then you can move z axis)
@@aeonjoey3d Same as in orca
Thank you for the audio tracks in Spanish
Looks like it may work without filing with natural color PETG as first layer, it should be pretty transparent
Good info.
What about using PVA as 1st layer?
So what's the secret? Ironing?
Did you try putting a 0.2mm spacing between the sacrificial plate and the first layer?
Did you try the Bambu Filament support for pla/petg?
I did this to print coins and board game pieces with detailed faces and boy howdy was it nearly impossible to remove but did work, I’d recommend the water soluble PVA before the new PETG+PLA stuff though, it’s really gummy.
I wonder of you could print on a TPU raft and peel it away afterwards.
Thanks
Very helpful, thank you
У вас есть фотополимерный принтер, проще на нем всю мелочь напечатать и вклеить😁👍
Why not use Bambu pet-G transparent clear for that base layer. it is very clear at 0.1 layers.
Would think using clear petg for first layer would be much simpler, but interesting technique.
How do i even Design Text in another color in CAD? Do i have to cut the text out and then design it back in with a 0.4mm gap between the text and the Model? I dont even now how set a multicolor print in the slicer 😂
I haven’t had any problems printing with a 0.2mm nozzle. No matter if bambu filament or thirdparty..
have you use a aftermarket nozzle and change it to 0.3 intead of 2? some change in the setting but it would work fine
im the lazy kind of person, so i would have gone with a the clear transparent PETG for the front :)
Fyi: please always note what kind of grit you are talking about.
E.g. 400 grit different between Europe and the United States.
Modify the printer to be a plotter with fine paint markers
You can try with Pentel MFP10 Paint Marker
For that sacrificial first layer, what about using PLA but with PETG HF? The HF has some PLA or PLA-like additive to it, which I think iss why they now offer Support for PLA/PETG combined.
The issue with Bambu lab Printers printing text is that they always print the text first, you cannot choose the order. All other designs work better with printing the outline first, then the text as you can extrude the finer details into the open areas like a plastic injection mold. Bambu still has yet to allow anyone to change the order in which colors are printed which is standard on almost every other slicer.
You can "trick" the slicer into printing the text second by having a large two-layer object (larger than the surface area of the outline) on the print the same color as the text. This wastes filament, but it's the only way to make it work. Bambu Labs really doesn't care about text quality currently.
You don't need to 'trick' anything, click the bolt icon beside the build plate, drag the color orders around. It took me forever to realize this.
@@Roobotics Unfortunately that doesn't work for the first layer.
I have the opposite issue when using PETG. I have a high temp smooth plate with a destroyed side because PETG sticks too well to it.
Turning up the bed temp makes it stick even better. At 80-90C the PEI surface will clearly show scarring from the parts if you can remove them at all.
Cleaning with IPA makes it stick poorly because it just smears the finger oils around and removes very little of it. I like Dawn Power Wash rubbed with a fresh paper towel and then a hot water rinse. Dry with another fresh paper towel. Don't touch the plate with your fingers. The high temp smooth plate really shows finger grease. IPA (at least the 90% stuff) also seems to soften the surface of the PEI making it tacky for a time. This probably isn't good for the surface.
Did you consider using clear PETG for your first layer or even all the light transmittal portion of the print? It would be brighter and give a nice diffused appearance.
I see a bl logo - I put a dislike, then also go another step to mark as "Not interested -> I don't like the video" and "Don't recommend the channel".
bl shills are everywhere, ffs.
Why do people call PETG "Pet-g"? We say P-L-A, we say A-B-S, so why are so many people saying Pet-G vs P-E-T-G?
Personally, I think there's british and australian youtubers that are the go-to sources on printing and their regional dialect has caused confusion.
It's P-E-T-G...thank you for attending my Ted Talk.
Everyone loves a good three letter abbreviation with clear, well defined letter sounds. A fourth letter is pushing it but not exactly a deal breaker, but it's the E right after the P that kills it. To pronounce it clearly you need to leave a deliberate pause or risk slurring it together into P-T-G. It makes it just awkward enough to pronounce quickly that "Pet-G" evolved as a snappier alternative.
wasnt the market selling this thing at the idea its perfect right out of the box? sounds like an expensive waste. only cool thing about it is the ability to have an ams
Could you please disable this outrageously shitty AI-translations?
no, you disable them, it's better to have options.
I Just wondered what you mean but now i got IT: the title of the Video, Here for me IT IS in German and it IS really a Nightmare - please stay in English as Long as the Translation ist so worse!
That's a UA-cam thing that they're doing automatically, he doesn't control that
Stick 0.2mm nozzle on, use quality Bambu filament, print and be done.
Your modified third party printer will never work as well as the standard one and changes all perimeters.
Yea after manually calibrating the filament.
bro do me a favour and turn of these fancy schmancy material renderings... they look so out of place in a professional CAD environment and it must clutters your view and takes away from the actually important stuff... leave that shit to the Blender Videographer type of 3D modelers