Can an engine additive really fix this 2011 F150? CAR WIZARD shows how to diagnose and repair
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- Опубліковано 2 кві 2021
- Can an engine additive fix this 2011 Ford F150 with low oil pressure?
🎛 Thanks Autel for sponsoring this video: www.auteltech.com 🎛
The CAR WIZARD 🧙♂️ explains and shows how to check low oil pressure. He also shows how to test for cylinder misfires, power draws and coil issues with a great new tool from Autel.
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I’m the customer, a lot of people asking what engine, 5.0 V8. I tried to get the first shop to test the oil pressure, I’m not sure if they didn’t want to invest the time but they didn’t do it. I’ve been watching Car Wizard’s videos for a while now and knew he would apply some real troubleshooting skills to the issue. I wasn’t disappointed. Thanks Car Wizard!!!
Thats awesome! You're lucky you live close enough to the wizard. Im glad it seems like the other shop didn't shaft you too hard. They could of done alot more damage blindly firing the parts cannon!
I was just thinking about what engines in that lol thanks for answering. I'm going to be in the market for a new pickup in a year or two and my company gets us the B plan for Ford. Good to know I could expect this if I get the 5.0 n get to 200k miles but yeah if I go the used market I'm prolly getting a Toyota lol
Yes a true mechanic will use knowledge and tests to find the issue and not just throw parts (money) at it. The Lucas additive will increase the viscosity a little along with having greater adhesive properties. This helps reduce the effects of some parts wear. This brings back oil pressure, cylinder pressure, and reduce future wear. Just as the wizard said this doesn't fix the problem but it can help extend the life of older engines.
Knowledge is half the battle! Go G.I. Wizard! Lol
@@jamesmancuso3666 why not just use thicker oil?
@@Psych0technic I was wondering about this myself.
thats why running a quality engine oil from the start and changing it on time is so important it helps make it so engines can go 200k to 300k before those types of problems occur.
Few people that buy new cars keep them beyond 100,000 miles. Therefore, they should use the cheapest oil they can find with the longest intervals. It's the next guy's problem.
@@ryanroberts1104 too funny cause its true. Some people just dont even change the oil 😝
@@ryanroberts1104 agree, if you are one of those guys who buy a new car every other year, why bother?
Can you define a "non quality," engine oil from the last 20 years?
its like the wizard said in another video, only 25% of people maintain a vehicle properly. I can attest to this because my son is the head oil change tech at the local valvoline and all the time people come in with a $60,000, $70,000 truck and put the cheapest shit oil they sell in them and dont want to do scheduled services. They go 10,000 even 15,000 miles between oil changes using conventional oil in a ecoboost engine which is a recipe for trouble. They just dont care, till it breaks, then they wonder why they need a new $15,000 ecoboost engine.
I have a 2011 Ford F150 with a 5.0L Coyote V8 in it with 138,000 miles on it and still going strong and it's a beast and it sounds like a beast with the Borla ATAK Catback exhaust on it.
Correct tools won’t make for a great mechanic. But a smart mechanic knows how to use his tool to complete great results. Cheers Wizard!!
Correct tools makes everyones life easier. If your good great or bad it makes your life better no matter what😂
Why would you want to keep a vehicle for more than 10 years? Is that the 3rd world?
Its cool that David is willing to admit he asks experts on cars he isn't completely familiar with. Wizard isn't a cocky guy and knows there is always more to learn in the mechanical industry. Every tech should learn a lesson from this.
The guy on the phone said the engine is toast. No oil change. No proof of current oil used. So the guy is NO expert. An expert wants more data besides the mileage.
I'm addicted to this channel. I love how you break down information, very straight forward. Thanks for sharing your wealth of experience with the world.
Change to Motorcraft Oil Filter--smart. But it seems to me that the Lucas additive is simply acting as a thickener thus raising the oil pressure. I'd expect changing to a higher viscosity motor oil would have the same effect. I think problems like this generate out of the the auto manufacturer's love for continually thinner oils for the sake of raising their fuel MPG figures.
Yep motorcraft oil and filter in these Fords on regular intervals always. Uncle, former mechanic, taught me that 20yrs ago and never had an issue out of them. Even though I drive a GMC now. 😅
You once again show why you are deservedly called The Wizard. You keep yourself up to date, you are methodical, you do the job right for your customer.
Gotta love the wizards approach to problem solving. Sound reasoning can solve more than just automotive related problems.
I always come away learning something from your videos, Car Wizard! Please keep those instructional videos coming! And of course, Mrs. Wizard, kudos to you as well for making these videos happen.
4 years ago I bought a 1996 Buick Roadmaster Collectors Edition with the tow package goodies, no hitch. Car had 22,641 miles and now has 36,000. I bought it sight unseen on eBay of all places. The owner was 72 when he got it, 92 when he died. I bought it from the widow. I had all the fluids changed, new tires and plugs but am currently stationed in Germany where I had it shipped. Been wanting the Wizard to do a thorough inspection to make sure it’s all good and luckily I am waiting on orders for my new duty station that is only a little over 2 hours a way from him. Will definitely stop by and hopefully he will show it on the channel. Inside is like new with some factory plastic on some pieces. Outside, black, has some scratches but what an awesome ride. See you soon Wizard💯🇺🇸
I live in a tropical country, my car has 170k miles on it, the recommended oil is 5w30, i've been using 10w40 for a while now, it did help a lot with oil pressure issues
For hot climate you should use 10w50 or 20w50.
@@draganmladenov Try Shell Rotella triple t 15w40 it's for diesels but does wonders on worn engines
@@klrrafman I've been using rotella in my 98 Camry that has almost 308 thousand miles on it. I have an oil leak and it's where the head gasket seals an oil passage on the front of the motor. the Rotella actually slowed that oil leak down with the help of the Lucas oil treatment that the wizard mentioned in this video. For the time being.... that is saving me from a $600+ head gasket repair bill. Yes she still leaks oil.... but not near like she was before I started what I'm doing now.
@@draganmladenov I lived in Florida most of my life and EVERY vehicle I had ....I've always used Castrol 20W50. The heat breaks oil down pretty quickly in climates like that.... so I ALWAYS went with the thicker oil and it served me very well.
You really have to be careful putting thicker oil in modern engines, things like cam phasers do not like that - you could cause premature damage. Older, simpler engines, especially after they have some miles on them it can be a great idea to use thicker oil.
I work on loads of 5.4 3 valve engines. The ones with 5k mile oil change history easily go 300,000 miles with no cam phaser or chain problems. I see more 5.7 hemi cams failing than I see 5.4 problems.
Exactly 5k oil changes are the best because it’s takes into account the idiling you been doing the stop and got traffic lights and repeated start ups and cut offs. Now imagine going 7500k or 10k that oil is still lubricating but it’s also dirty very dirty also
Change your oil! Oil is cheap, engines aren't. I've never understood why manufacturers even when there are problems that could be largely avoided by more frequent oil changes stick to the once a year, 10k mile recommendation. I do anywhere between 8-12k miles per year in my vehicles and change the oil 2x per year regardless of the miles because it is easier to remember so the oil is changed anywhere between 4-6k miles. I also like to use synthetic oil, shell rotella gas truck or penzoil platinum seem to be the highest quality and 5 quarts usually costs like $20 and either Mann, Wix or OE filters, so even if I need 10 quarts of oil and the filter it's like $50, it's money well spent considering a new truck is 40 or 50k .
My daily driver is 14 years old and has well over 100k city miles and still runs great even though it spent the majority of it's life doing less than 10 miles per day and running for an hour or more to do that 10 miles, so figure that assuming 10mph avg the motor has run 10,000 hours. People don't realize how much harder stop and go city miles are on a car than highway, on an hours basis my car has run for many more hours than many cars with 250k miles on them, most cars with highway miles probably average 40mph to get the same runtime they'd need to run 400k miles. By the time 5k miles has come around the oil stil has additive and is holding the dirt in suspension but the weight has definitely sheared outside of grade, I usually can hear the engine noises changing around 4k miles.
Cams don’t fail in the Hemis, it’s the lifters.
You know I tell every body this but people dont want to believe it the 5.4 are decent engines when maintained especially the 09 and 10 were literally bullet proof just put an ac compressor on one last week that had 298k on it. All the modern ford engine are way. Better than any if the shit gm is putting out
@@tybailey9428 i completely agree LOL
The advancement in diagnostic tools is amazing. They are a time and headache saver.
Now that only has to siff through to the customer.
Autel also sell some cheap and cheerful code readers, that could save you a few bucks with dodgy shops
Only if you have an OBD2 car.
Altel should send this video to shops so they actually use the equipment instead of firing the parts cannon. lol
It's not like this equipment is new.
Plenty of other shops do this stuff, and have done for many years. The Wizard is well behind the curve here.
The only new thing I saw here was the spark tester.
@@Cheepchipsable so why do the other shops just fire the parts cannons?
@@beastumfan because $$$
Shotgun mechanics...lol
Because "dealership mechanics" are just parts guys that know lefty loosy righty tighty. I tested the big dealership when I moved to this city when my fuel pressure regulator was leaking. They had it for a full day and couldn't find it. I opened the hood, pointed at the fuel soaked regulator and said "it's right there " the "mechanic" said " oh" never went back to them.
I'm a believer in Seafoam Green. Sometimes it takes a treatment or two but it's saved my cars and my motorcycles. For instance with my motorcycle I was told it needed a carb job including new needle jets. "$1200". It took two cans of seafoam, but I heard the motor suddenly sound like a jet engine. It ran like a brand new bike! I rode it for the next 5 years with only changing oil and plugs. The next owner couldn't believe how well it ran for it's age and mileage and I still see him riding it.
The information Wizard giving is priceless!!!
Lucas oil treatment is no joke. My buddy who is a heavy-equipment diesel mechanic swears by it. He said that at they garage he worked at they were able to get 1/4 to 1/3 more life between rebuilds in their long-haul tractor trailers engines when put on a Lucas oil regiment. Good to know this stuff works for high-mileage light-duty vehicles too.
The newer synthetic version is alot better.
Thats one helluva tip referring to the firing order vs the crank amp data on the scope. I appreciate the info, and when I get to utilize this in the future, I'll certainly appreciate the time you will have saved me!!!! Truly, i've never seen such a genius thing in my life!
Today’s tool and diagnostic tips are incredible. Thank you for sharing this to the rest of us!!!
It is so satisfying to watch a professional at work! The best professional mechanics start with logic and then, using the best tools at his/her disposal, gather necessary data to form an answer to the problem. The Car Wizard demonstrates this ability on a regular basis! It's no wonder his business has grown so much over the years, and he has so many devoted customers. Kudos, Dave!
Professional logical mechanics don't use Lucas products.
@@ryanroberts1104ehh, I'm sure he discussed with the customer and was the cheapest logical decision to bump viscosity and help oil pressure. On a high mile engine like this, it isn't worth the tear down for oil pump and flush. The whole truck itself isn't even worth it imo.😅
The old Grandmas friends son excuse! Love it. Nice diag wizard!
Back in the old days thicker viscosity oil was used as the engine got older. Same principle here.
Not necessarily. Engines nowadays have smaller oil journals and cam phasers. You go dumping thicker oil in a modern engine you will burn it up real quick.
@@rolandthethompsongunner64 I said "back in the old days". It WAS a simple fix for some oil consumption. I k,ow fully well that modern engines have tighter tolerances and better metallurgy and require thinner motor oil. Case in point: try running 0W-20 oil in an old Chevelle.
@@rolandthethompsongunner64 Sole owner of a 2007 Honda Odyssey that takes 5w20 or 0w20. Burned ~1 qt oill per every ~1000 miles since new due to Honda's stupid VCM system. Switched to 5w30 at ~75K miles and have done so since since it did reduce oil burn. Still going now at +323K miles. Oh, also only changed oil per Honda's maintenance minder system, which varies between 7-10K mile intervals.
@@stevec8861 Honda engines can take a bit of use others can't. That being said I have run thicker oil and trucks that have a leaking problem or burning problem and it worked fantastic for my high mileage vehicles. I've always been told never to do it for new vehicles.
@@setsunasetsuna9342 Some more info: My Honda V6 with VCM burned oil from the getgo becuase VCM shuts off three cylinders when under light load. Oil gets in those shut off cylinders and is burned when they re-start. When I switched to 5w30 it reduced problem somewhat. Back then I didn't know disabling VCM was an option. But at ~311K miles I disabled VCM via an "S-VCM controller" device. Oil burning ceased and hasn't returned now at +324K miles. Still using 5w30. Had I disabled VCM when car was young, I might likely still be using 5w20 or 0w20 unless oil burn remained a problem or started as car aged.
watching videos like this, i get more and more the feeling, that there a lot of shops outhere, that dont actually care about their customers, they dont care about their concerns or think they are stupid, giving them cheap answers or replacing parts just on suspicion which not solve the problem at all. I recently got the diagnosis of a bearing damage (motorschaden / ) by one shop, just droving it around a bit, and thats it, no further testing of the engine at all. I was not really satifsfied with that statment. I brought it to a second shop and they said otherwise, even told me my oil is too thin (which the first shop did fill in with last years Technical check (TÜV)) . So i dont give up on it, and will not accept cheap answers anymore . Due to this and other videos i learn now a lot about this and how important it is to have really professional mechanics like the car wizard, thank you.
You are truly an altruistic shop. Always looking out for your customers.
And I love how on cyl 1 the amps are just slightly higher than the others. Because the started had to ramp up a little more to make up for the increased compression after cyl 2
Thanks for a very informative video.
Enjoyed seeing the Autell demo, very cool kit. 👍🏼
Excellent. Demonstration was clearly presented again from the Car Wizard. The quick fix for low oil pressure is also an interesting find and well worth knowing. PS Good camera work Mrs Wizard, the brains behind the brawn. 👍
Excellent video very informative, you are a brilliant man. Wish all mechanics would be as good as you ... truly 😎
I'm a semi truck parts guy. Lucas is really really good. It's not snake oil and our mechanics swear by the stuff. I'm not at all surprised that it did what it did to cure this problem. It brings new life to old transmissions and differentials all the time. Doesn't fix the wear, but it fixes the effects of it.
Buddy was broke as hell back in the day and the trans wouldnt move in his truck. Quart of Lucas stop slip later and he drove it for 6 months.
@@graemejohnson9025 gotta get that planned obsolescence, no car is ment to go past the lease period anymore.
Schaeffer's, cenpeco, Lucas, hot shot secret. All good oils for trucks...
@@graemejohnson9025First you say American cars don't last but then you compare your Aussie car to an Italian car. Your premise is pretty spot-on but your example is seriously flawed. Lol.
@@graemejohnson9025 Sorry, your reply just popped up. Can't believe it's lonely down under. Your country is on my bucket list to visit. And I really want to see those Holden cars you have. Just watched a Vinwiki video about a guy who imported a Holden ute body to create one here with a Pontiac G8 and avoided import laws.
Another great video with technical information on vehicle diagnosis. Appreciate the knowledge and explanations. Keep it up!
Thank you for demonstrating the scanners and equipment Great Job! My transmission on my Hyundai was a little off at 175k miles did a trans drain and fill “even tough many say don’t and this mileage”. Still was not right so then I drained 2 quarts and added the Lucas trans fix, reminded me of thick red syrup. Trans is ok again after. Now at 203k miles and going.
Lol, literally the first thing that came to my mind when I read the title was 5.4 triton 🤣
Thankfully when I saw the year, i knew it wouldn't be lol
The 2 valve 5.4 was a great motor though
I don’t know, my 2010 Lincoln nav with its 3v 5.4 has 267k on it and hasnt had any problems yet.
^and that's the thing, I've heard legitimate arguments for both sides, but i just always end up feeling more comfortable with the 5.0L than the 5.4L
@@EMdemo I would like the 5.0 more too honestly. I feel like i am on borrowed time with mine. It is running great though, no issues.
I see why John Ross is so big on the autel it makes diagnosing so much easier. Definitely on my purchase list.
WIZ,I NOW HAVE YOUR VIDEOS ON FILE,AS opposed to just watch,and never see it again. You are what I did in my trade,measure stuff don’t guess,you are the best auto,guy,I have come across THANKS for diagonisis expertise , till next time GOD BLESS,🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Thats actually really really useful and clever diagnostics. i’m saving this video for references techniques for when i have a customer car in at the dealer i’m working in
I'm tempted to open an auto repair shop right beside Omega and call it "Some Other Shop" :)
Imagine if Scotty Kilmer opened a shop next door. That would be interesting seeing them competing.
@@serge4856 lmao!! Sounds about right
@@Dcc357 Scotty works out of a shithole garage. He could never operate a "shop". Even for a home mechanic his setup is laughable.
@@ryanroberts1104 Scotty really should get a 2 post vehicle lift installed somewhere. That will make Scotty's life so much better. His garage is a disaster, but it goes with his rampaging personality on camera lol.
@@Dcc357 He really should retire somewhere that doesn't have microphones...
The sad part is he can afford to do better - he is a multi millionaire. He is good at the youtube thing, really good at the being obnoxious thing, and terrible at anything automotive. Funny how youtube works.
The only thing I don't like about Lucas is the fact it has almost 0 additives and detergents in it , this has been proven with oil analysis. The measured viscosity of Lucas Oil Stabilizer is equivalent to 70 weight oil. So wouldn't it just be better to bump up to 10w-30 or 10w-40 oil if need be? .
Yes, it would be much better to use regular oil. And cheaper!
Lucas now makes a low viscosity oil stabilizer specifically for newer cars.
it s like adding gear oil... it makes the oil thicker
I dont know if you have ever used Lucas oil. Its thick like Honey. Way thicker than any regular oil I have used, and I have used 15w50 before.
See the high mileage Lucas. That has additives.
Great info thanks! Nice to have people share this kind of info!
Great teaching video Car Wizard and tools.I hope to update my diagnostic tools soon and i will keep these Autel diagnostic tools in mind.
Yep, I've used Lucas Oil to quiet down tappy engines in the past. I had a Taurus with 250k on it and it would tap without Lucas in it because the tolerances were too loose and it wouldn't get good pressure at idle. Sold the car at 320k and the engine was still quiet when using Lucas. Good stuff.
WOW 🤯
It would have been interesting to see which change had the most impact on the oil pressure. The additive or the filter.
I have two ~30 year old Mercedes; a 1995 E320 sedan and a 1991 250TD diesel, wagon, 5 speed. Sedan i've put over 100000 miles on, it has 240XXX miles on it. Just got the wagon. 165XXX miles, although the odometer is in kilometers. You gotta love the 8 liter (~2 gallon) oil capacity. Contamination in the oil is diluted over the large oil quantity.
Change oil hot and often. I do 10k miles as I mostly do long distances in my car, rarely do 5 minute type drives.
Use recommended fluids and filters.
Do other recommended maintenance at recommended intervals.
Attend to repairs as soon as possible.
With a well engineered car, that's about all you need to do to keep it up.
Yes, I'm a believer too! I have a 2004 Mercury Marauder with the 4.6 4 valve cobra motor in her, I was experiencing hesitation under normal acceleration, and full throttle, I added this today, and the hesitation is all but gone. And now the idle is smooth as butter! Good stuff! I also used the Lucas oil stabilizer as I could smell oil, this stuff works and has stopped my oil smell!!!
The Autel reminds me of the giant scope machines we had at uti back in the early 90s.
The SnapOn Modus scanner does all of this while sitting in the driver seat
This is some next level stuff. That compression test will save tons of time. Wizard, indeed.
Its not a compression test, and you don't need to buy Autel equipment to get it. Its a relative compression test. The readings you see on the screen are not compression numbers. Its showing how hard the starter has to work to make compression on each cylinder. In the video, the starter didn't have to work as hard on cylinder 2 because of low compression. The readings are typically given in percentages. They represent how hard the starter has to work on the compression stroke for each piston, and the results are compared to each other. The readings should all be close. If one is low, that indicates low compression. If you want to find out how much compression is actually being made in each cylinder, you need to do a real compression test.
This is a scope function that's starting to find its way into more and more scan tools. Depending on how the tool is designed, you don't always need the amp clamp. If the vehicle is OBD2, the tool can get the information without having to use a clamp. If you want more details, just do a search for relative compression test.
@@AT-wl9yq thank u! a breath of fresh air to have such clarity!
I live in WY. I wish I was closer to you. When I was a kind my dad had a guy at work with all the master mech titles. The most honest guy around. You sound like you and Nelo are of honest professional.
Very good demonstration Wizard 👍
Wizard giving us a lesson on his new Autel equipment along with the use of his trusty school tv carts 👍
Wizard and Kevin from KSR would get along well. They both like all the data they can get.
Me thinks Kevin would skip the additive and just chuck new main bearings on it haha
Thank you for sharing this very good info.
Thanks, Wizards and Mrs., always a learning moment. Looks like MAV's Ford. As someone who is seeking a high mileage vehicle - maybe a pickup - this is good to know.
"We don't work on a lot of domestic trucks"... with an old Dodge in the background... haha
He's a vag
Can you imagine a Toyota dealer saying '180,000 miles out of a Tundra, the engine is worn out'
No just the frame is gone by then lol
The downside to the Tundra is its reputation. They are so good that it is darn near impossible to get a good deal on a used one!
@@Morpheen999 that was over a decade ago they have had no problems since then.
@@antoniovillanueva308 Even my 20 year old Lexus shitbox is going for several thousands. Only got a good deal on it because it had a lot of problems I had to work on.
@@antoniovillanueva308 very true. I paid 42k for my tundra crewmax 4x4 SR5.
But here's the thing. Im 36 years old and this will be the last truck i buy in my lifetime.. i wont need to buy multiple trucks.
I don't daily drive my truck either.
So buy one truck for life.. hell that's worth a little bit of a premium to me
I’ve had two 5.4 f150’s. Never had a lick of trouble with them. Loved them!
Very cool tool review!
Lucas is more of an oil thickener and less of a true lubricant. Also Lucas is expensive and this engine needs a crutch for the rest of its life. So the customer would be better off switching to 0w40 or 10w50 oil to keep the pressure up. My $0.02.
Absolutely, 100% agree. Lucas products are a scam to take money from dumb people at Walmart.
2¢ lol
@@ryanroberts1104 What the hell does Walmart got to do with it? It's at every place that sells auto parts. Go back to your mom's basement.
@@Scott-ig1zd Generic term for big box store that sells worthless things to morons who have no idea what it is. You're right, every auto parts store is also full of overpriced scam products. It's just part of the business.
i'd switch to rotella t6 5w40, that was what I was thinking. Engines worn just use a heavier oil!
Car wizard the Lucas is nothing but high viscosity oil with no additives. Switching to a 20w50 is a better fix for an engine so you get the full additive package and a quality oil.
Mobile has a 5w50 with a good amount of zinc.
I love your seriousness brother thanks for your knowledge I'm looking forward on being a vehicle mechanic for the army. Cheers man
Excellent overview of this equipment. Time saved is money earned!
Over here we just chuck in any old 20w50 to get the pressure up . . Excellent show really enjoyed it .
Yep...no reason to use Lucas for that. Or anything else...oil does not need to be "stabilized".
If you put straight 20w50 in a VVT engine it will cause engine codes and drive ability issues that’s why you only use 20% capacity. You go dump 7 quarts of 20w50 in a 5.4 3v engine and see how that turns out.
@@classicoldskool1420 I dont know abt that motor but over here in the UK anything hitting 150k or old motors in general you.would use Duckhams 20w 50 or maybe Castrol GTX .. it just helps keep up the OP .
There is no shortage of oil experts on the internet, only recently surpassed by virology experts.
@@truantray It's kind of a trigger when a mechanic says Lucas fixed something - especially a mechanic I trust like the Wizard. In general if a mechanic says anything like that you should run for the hills. And not pay him. Wizard should know better, thicker oil would have solved the problem exactly the same, but it would have been cheaper than lucas and better for the engine. (Especially if planning on doing this long term)
Wizard should have been more careful with his words so as not to advertise for Lucas - which is exactly what he did, even though they didn't sponsor him! Now we have a bunch of stupid people who watch this channel buying lucas products because they think it actually does something..."cuz the wizard said so".
HAPPY EASTER EVERYONE
Put Lucas oil stabilizer in my vortec 6.0 with 160k on it that was idling warm around 20-30psi and wouldn't go above 45 several days ago, now idling at 40 warm and goes up to 65 at high rpm. Definitely worth giving a shot for anybody having low oil pressure issues in their old trucks
Excellent tutorial video, Car Wizard! 😎
The sending unit swap is often the right answer on these, regardless of engine. They tend to go a little bad and then get oil leaked into the wiring, and then it's done. And you have to replace the unit and the wiring, or clean it real good.
Exactly, and we don't know the whole story here, maybe the tech called for more diagnostic time and customer refused and asked something like "well what's a cheap potential fix".
youre forgetting he did an actual test of the pressure, not just relying on the sensor for his data. However, you are correct that many times this symptom is caused by oil leaking into the sending units contacts. in that case cleaning it and coating the contacts with electrical grease will resolve it.
What an amazing piece of equipment, wish I could afford one.
Yes! I had a '94 Dodge Dakota with eh 3.9L Magnum V6. The engine was tired and worn. It would knock a little on cold startups, burn a little oil, and had a noisy valvetrain. I started adding Lucas Oil Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer at every oil change and it brought the engine back to life. No more knocking, noisy valvetrain, or burning oil.
You really are a wizard. You know your show. Thanks for sharing.
Technically, the same result with the Lucas can be achieved by going to a higher viscosity oil; and I do agree that the Fram filters we use at Walmart really aren’t the best that we could use. (I personally use OEM filters on our vehicles)
Thats a common misconception. Many people refer to lucas as "just a viscosity booster". While technically true, its alot more than that. It contains special additives and such that make it a great oil stabilizer. It creates a strong oily film that sticks to your engine internals. I know this because I used to use empty Lucas bottles as oil funnels. After I would cut the end off of the bottle, I would spray tons of brake cleaner to try to clean off the rest of the Lucas. Even after spraying the brake cleaner the bottle would still have this strong slick oily film from the Lucas additive. Its pretty awesome stuff.
Rotella 15/40 will give you those main bearings back. Also, I prefer Wix for all filtration needs.
@@kb9oak749 for a short period but it will cause more issues because only some parts need that higher viscosity and those that don't will be damaged. This is just a bad option used by people who don't know better.
Old saying concerning Fram.
"Red is Dead" (as in your engine)
Just Redline 5w50 oil and you don't need any stupid additives
"We don't work on a whole lot of domestic trucks" literally has a 90s dodge behind him. I kid though I think that's the wizard's pickup
This is the reason I said he was lying in my video. I guess he forgot he brad about changing a bunch of 5.4 3 valves in Ford trucks.
That's their shop truck, not a customer truck.
I wonder if he was kidding lmao
He just said he prefers GMs, and has a Dodge (Chrysler Group).
Wait, whaaaat?
Just kidding.
We should buy what makes sense, not what our hearts prefer 👍
Awesome equipment Wizard. It's really handy to have and it cuts the work in half
Used Lucas for all my vehicles. My Dodge truck is at 260k+ and my wife's CRV at 270k+. Even use Lucas on my motorcycles. Definitely helps keep a motor running longer with less wear and tear effects.
There’s been a F150 with a seized 5.4L 3 valve parked in front of my shop for 2 months....it’s really racking up the parking fees.
And Lucas is good stuff, it really quiets down the cold weather piston slap in my 260,000 mile Subaru engine.
As far as knowledge goes. Me and wizard are on the same page.
Very few of us left..
Your comment wizard on DATA is wonderful. Also, Lucas is\has been a go-to for not just high mileage cars\truck...but works well for ATV and UTV that have been run hard and are a little "lose". Cheers!
I am surprised as usually we are shunned from using the Lucas or additives because of the VVT. Glad to see that your promoting good diagnosis over throwing parts at it. However replacing the sensor might be an option if they don’t have equipment to test it and are handy enough to change it themselves. Great relative compression test. Thanks mr wizard
definently has an authoritarian personality, i bet his kids love that
LOL! Yeah, I've felt sorry for them before.
People who think off-the-shelf fluid additives work are the same people who go to a doctor with a problem and immediately expect there's a pill for everything.
$20 vs $3000. thats the case.
@ totally agree, but most people think there's always a simple solution to a big problem. It is not like software engineering where you have keyboard as a single tool that solves all your problems. Sometimes only ratchets can save an engine and not additives or scan tools
And the same people that are cured by a placebo. I understand the idea of limping it along for a few more miles so you can sell it, but that's awfully shady isn't it? You're not going to tell the buyer about that problem...
@@HermannTheGreat Yes, that happens every single day. Thus why people think used car salesmen are some of the most slimy shady people that ever existed.
Hey I just logged in to say you are great, thanks for what you do.
Great video. Sure would like more such technical tips. Thanks Wizard.
Boss I work a small independent shop and as much as like chevy, Ford pays the bills! Almost guaranteed every time Ford and dodge roll into the shop they stay for a few days.
Haha I have 3 friends whose sierras and Silverado’s transmissions all gave out round the same time 2016 ishes
@@estebansoria3037 powertrain warranty? Considering some of the tsbs out on those years of bowties I don't doubt it, just haven't had those towed in yet lol
That's cool to detect low compression! 10:45 Stomach growl
Good ear
He’s all trying to lose weight
@@619guy202 loose?
Thanks for the testing info. Handy to know that even exists!
Thank you Car Wizard! That’s some high tech stuff to instantly diagnose electrical gremlins!
..."Thank God I found this channel!" LOVE how the Wizard just tells it STRAIGHT FORWARD! What mechanic does that? Keep it up Wizard!!
My 5.4 has never had any issues and it has 250k on it... only thing I have ever done is plugs wires and coils ... my exhaust manifold is about shot though lol
must be the 2 valve
My '07 5.4 3v has not had any problems in its 130k life other than the warped passenger side manifold and the mechanic was able to replace that without breaking the studs. I replaced the spark plugs early on and its always had mobil 1 in it. Now the rest of the truck has had almost ever other common problem go wrong with it. Corroded fuel pump controller, 2 steering shafts, 4wds vacuum component, 2 ac pumps, power steering pump, and instrument cluster with brake light on. Even with that I still consider its been a pretty good truck for me and the truck will give way to the midwest rust before the tranny and engine give a problem at this rate.
The 5.4L is a picky engine, but if they are taken care of and properly maintained they will last a long time, the biggest thing is that they don't have the best oiling system which is why regular oil changes are an absolute MUST with the 5.4L. If you own one of these engines do not skimp an extra 1000 miles or more on your oil changes, some engines are fine with that, the 5.4L is not one of those engines. I used to work in a warehouse and we had a mix of Ford Econoline and Chevy Express delivery vans, all but one of the Fords were 5.4L's they one E-150 that was a 4.6L, they we're all religiously maintained though, they all looked like trash on the outside because they we're high mileage and worked hard, but they all ran like new because of rigors maintenance schedule they we're put through.
Have an 06 Silverado with the 5.3L. Now has 298k miles on original engine that's never been torn down. Been running Lucas additive since about 140k. Great stuff!!! It does have slight lifter tick but in tolerance oil pressure and still has power. Here's to another 300k lol. Keep up the great work wizard and great advice/content. Love the channel.
So over 158,000 miles you have used roughly 50 bottles of Lucas @$10 each if you do 3000 mile oil changes. That's 500 bucks! You could have had some serious service done if you just saved that money and used regular oil like an intelligent person. Lucas didn't "save" any part of your engine. (298k isn't that much for a 5.3)
Thank you Wizard great schooling :)
The Motorcraft FL-910 oil filter is like $4 at Walmart. Seems silly to skimp here.
You'd be surprised how many will see that as an opportunity to skimp.
Exactly they rather pick up the 2.88 Walmart supertech filter 😂😂
Keep in mind however; Supertech filters are actually Wix. I'd rather use that than Fram. No you cannot go wrong with OEM period and preferred.
Hey Wizard & Mrs Wizard, Wizard, you could be a great instructor at a college,. You do a good job of explaining everything very thoroughly that everyone can understand, 👍🙂
He couldn't afford the cut in pay.
Colleges dont reach how to fix things. They only teach theory
Those that can, do.
Those that can't do, teach.
Those that can't teach, teach gym.
He's got better things to do than that.
Shop I worked in did this to a 2009 Suburban and it worked as well. I’ve used Lucas in all my oil changes ever since.
Thank you Mr Wizard for showing that ignition tester! I haven’t used or seen a scope since trade school in the eighties, and have been asking around for something like that, but with no result. I’m impressed with your diagnostics, thumbs up.
As for additives: I’ve used STP stop smoke in my 1960 Buick 364 nailhead, when it was smoking badly. Did it work? Probably in some way, but it didn’ affect the smoking issue in the slightest 😄 I did’t expect it to work, but since I had a big STP sticker on the fender... Ha!
Wizard, what about switching to a high HTHS viscosity 5W-40 from the prescribed 5W-20? That way you aren't diluting out your additive package and you should gain back oil pressure at idle.
My European sedans both run full syn 5w40. Good stuff.
I run Castrol edge Euro 0w-40 in my 5.0. I’ll take protection over unseen fuel economy
Use what's recommended
Do you believe that throwing Lucas in the crankcase results in the viscosity that is recommended in the owner's manual?
The oil weights in the US and the language in the manuals are driven by CAFE. Most other countries have oil charts in reference to ambient temperature. Most engines will be fine with any number of oil viscosities as long as the temperature that you are operating the car in is appropriate.
@@johdirt7843 won’t hurt but if you want to thicken your oil buy a heavier oil. Lucas is overrated.
Isn't the Lucas additive just a really thick oil? So it's just like bumping up the viscosity on a worn engine.
thats what infigured,, but this is why i hear peopls say,, use thicker oil at high milage
I’d just go to a 5w-30 or 5w-40 before adding Lucas. Only filters that should be on Fords are motorcraft
Yes but a safer more accurate way to thicken it up.
@@Zerinsakech Really? I'd expect it is safer to buy already thicker oil (if the engine can run it) than to mix it like this.
@@Zerinsakech Lucas provides worse lubricity protection vs just going to a heavier top tier oil.
I never used an engine additive but I have used Lucas Transmission fix for my 2010 Corolla with 242k miles. It was hard shifting into overdrive but after I used the Lucas it is smooth as butter!
Actually some good information here, thanks man!
It sounds like the wizard needs a lunch break I heard his stomach growl like 7 times throughout the video
That Autel picks up everything
I kept hearing the rumble too, made me hungry now 😂
Sets of the knock sensors.
He’s trying to lose weight
I was going to say...skipping a meal or two might do him some good. As well as getting a bicycle instead of another car.
Mobil 1 15W-50 synthetic would do wonders for this engines oil pressure, much better than gooey Lucas additive
Well, again thanks for the video.
Wizard, check this out. So i have a 1997 expedition with 471,678 miles. Obviously has the 2 valve 330. Still running strong. No rebuilds to the entire power train. Love my truck. Yes i take good care of it. Just got back from driving to northern California and back here to Tennessee with it. Towing almost 7,000 pounds in the back of it. Not to mention 8 full grown people the whole time in in back.
Great stuff, really good channel for Grearheads. Thanks WIZ.