This has become one of my favorite reviewers, a real skillful reviewer and not just one of those influencers. I wish she will review the Neptune 4 Plus and Creality 3 V3 KE also.
💯. And HOW?!? I ASK HOW, with so many printers/lasers/CnCs being sold/ made/ released every month does this channel NOT have a 100k subs… 🤯 Hopefully the Adsense Gods will smile on this channel one day and push these quality videos to youths instead of reposted Tik-Toc dances. 🤞
There is an adaptive speed setting which slows movement down as the print gets taller, this can be activated on the neptune screen settings. It prevents the ringing and imperfections.
For those that don't realise, you can easily push 0.8mm or even 1mm lines in vase mode with a 0.4mm nozzle. I have been doing it with near 100% success for years.
interesting, they must have updated that because it now has a 19min pre-sliced speed benchie, and damn its CLEAN too! The Aux fans really aren't needed unless its really printing at over 300mm speed, and ya, its noisy. Speed comes at the cost of needing better cooling, so noise is the trade off. Quick Edit: DO NOT USE GLUE on the PEI sheet, it is entirely un-needed, if you having issues getting things to stick, its your settings, not the PEI sheet. Also DO CLEAN THE PLATE with IPA (or hot soapy water) as PEI is picky about finger oils. I have no idea as to why Elegoo included a glue stick, because that just isn't needed for the type of plate.
@@Arcadeic the bed is rated to 100c, firmware update (aka fixed the printer.cfg setting) fixed that low max bed setting. Also with klipper you can override those settings and set it higher yourself, though with the low wattage bed heater it has, it might take a long time to get up to temp. I found that the glue is used for the OTHER side of the build plate, the smooth side. It works great, still not a big fan of using glue but that smooth side needs it (tried without it with limited success).
As always an excellent review. I have come to the decision over time that your reviews and opinions matter most to me when deciding whether to upgrade to another printer. Thanks Aurora Tech and please continue to keep us so well informed.
Thanks Aurora for this review. I was waiting for this review. I was confused between V3 SE and NP Max 4. Now things are lot clear. She is my favourite reviewers and all her reviews are very consistent as she prints same model so that any machine can be compared with other.
Excellent and very comprehensive review and not to mention the very direct and honest comments to the pros and cons of the model. My very first channel for 3d printers review. Thank you.
3:10 - Instead of the traditional bed leveling with paper shim over each leveling screw, I now run the automated bed leveling routine and look at the offset values over each leveling screw and adjust them all at the same time. It's faster, easier and makes a more level bed. I usually do this 2-3 times to get a very level bed, then save the final automated bed leveling calibration.
@@MyGuyNoob - My description was a bit confusing. The Neptune 4 Pro displays a numerical map of the automated bed calibration on the 3D printer's screen. The center where the Z offset was probed is zero and the rest of the map is relative to that. I use those numbers on the screen to manually adjust the bed to make it level, then run the auto bed leveling again until it's as level as possible.
@Liberty4Ever yeah I've done the same coming from the ender 3 v2. But I see what you're saying. One last obvious question, you check tour z offset once you're done level?
@@MyGuyNoob - I don't verify the auto Z offset by any measurement, but I'll enter a small Z offset correction for the best first layer and I'll save that minor correction. On my Neptune 4 Pro, the auto Z offset makes a good first layer, but I'll tweak it a little bit to make it better in my opinion. I do small scale manufacturing and the largest volume product is a tall TPU part with very little first layer contact. Those parts print reliably (start a job and walk away without waiting for the first layer), but that first layer goes down hot and pressed firmly into the textured PEI build surface.
I pray 🙏 @elegoo watches and implement the suggestions @21:14 before sending out the Gigas. I know they offer nozzel packs with the kickstarter, which is great, but many of the short comings with this printer could be deviating on a printer 200% scale of the Max. ❤
Great succinct vid. I sent the max 3 back because of no klipper or easy lan access but Elegoo were amazing and miles better than creality with no questions asked. You are amazing...!
setting different x and y accel's doesn't usually work in klipper, as it doesn't support it on the mainline branch. If you have root access to the host, you can add some custom kinematics to get around this, but you need to use a post script to change them dynamically
Thank you for the review, was waiting for this one! :) It is very unfortunate they decreased the bed temperature that much, this really can't print ABS and those other more difficult filaments on any larger prints even if they advertise it. I need good quality ABS/ASA/Nylon prints, and this just doesn't handle those. Even if the little print shown on the review is "passable", anything larger and higher would just fall apart (I think). The proprietary nozzle is the second reason why I won't be getting this one.
Hi, the upcoming big bamboo printer could be interesting. I hope they add a active chamber heating to that one. Anyways i like the bloopers part the best, there we can see the "always so serious face" Aurora smiling :)
Very good video! Info is well presented and clear, very professionally done. I am on the fence about getting a bigger bed slinger, as you say. I am happy with my Elegoo Neptune 3 pro, so I have faith in the brand.
Still the best printer reviews on UA-cam! Too bad I did not watch this video before ordering the Neptune 4 Max otherwise I would have not ordered it. The POM wheels and the bed leveling are a deal breaker for me. I will try to send back.
Great review as always. I'm not sure what the point of the 'Max' is, sure it's a great 'value' but value for what exactly, it's too slow to take advantage of it's size, any print large enough to make the Max necessary is literally going to to take a WEEK at 200ms, and if it fails.... This is literally a product without a use case.
Aurora you can print a 0.7mm line width with a 0.4mm nozzle in vase mode. Also I bet that the retraction is "good" if you set it a 2.0mm mm with a fast speed direct drive ;) , try something like 0.3-0.7mm maybe as 2.0mm kills both speed and surface quality.
Excellent review as always! I especially appreciated your points on the weak power supply and the lack of input shaping at Max Z height. It would be interesting to test how much of a difference placing the printer on a concrete floor, instead of a desk, would have on quality near the top of the print, as the printer wouldn't slosh around so much. Keep up the great work!
Excellent review as always, I already bought the Kobra 2 Pro because of your video , it is a fast, economical and easy to use option. I think the Kobra 2 Max is also a better option in the aspects I mentioned, has lower nozzle temperature capacity but i don't need to print high temperature materials . It would be interesting if you made a video comparing these two machines since they are the most similar in price and size
I am on your side! Would be awesome to see that. I am still wondering what types of filament some one would print using these machines. The only thing that still keeps me a bit away front the Elegoo Neptune 4 Max is that the Anycubic Kobra 2 Max has not the same print quality, i saw that the clearance in the Kobra 2 pro review isn’t really good allthough it has the all metal guide rails, a more stable design and auto-calibration, which should work OK, but maybe than the part cooling sets the limit. It has 500W and heats up more quicker, and you can still print PETG with it, but the bed isn‘t insulated well enough. The choice still is hard, maybe you can give me a more precise opinion;-) so we might come to a good and appropriate decision. Wish you a good night🤩
@@BBLX1C You can replace the Kobra 2 heat breaks with ones from the Vyper(preferably bimetallic) and use standard volcano nozzles, which makes it more versatile.
@@BBLX1C There are a couple of things that I didn't like like the Auto z offset that I couldn't print at first because it was too close to the bed and it's supposed to do an automatic leveling in the z to print even if it's not a perfect first layer but I had It takes a while to adjust because you can't adjust the Z offset unless you're printing. It makes some strange noises so it seems to me that the machine was not yet ready to go on the market, the application works and is interesting but it still lacks the camera function. But my main objective when buying the Kobra 2 is because it is fast and simple, it is a demon in speed with quite acceptable quality.
I print with Nylon almost exclusively. It's a good idea to turn off ALL cooling fans for printing when using Nylon because it can cause all sorts of issues, including blobbing. So I suggest making sure the fans are off next time.
Anyone know of an easy way to swap out the guides for steel ones. I’m already seeing the rubber wear some on the edges though i have been putting quite a few hours on it lately
Another great review, thank you! This machine is somewhat on my radar for a future purchase, but I will likely wait as it seems now is not the time to buy printers since manufacturers keep one-upping each other every month or two. Can't wait to see what is on the horizon. I am curious though, why will you not use Cura? Sometimes Prusa/SS is better, but overall Cura is still the best for many reasons (in my opinion).
Hi, I love your content. Best reviews on the web. I'd love to see a review on the Kobra 2 Max for comparison purposes. I'm torn between the two, and I'm sure there are MANY more in the same position...
First absolutely love the channel and content, based some purchases on your reviews, do you have a review or recommendation on smoke purification. Keep up the great work 🎉
Wow, I was highly impressed at the detailed and clear review that you did. VERY professional and highly informative. I bought the Neptune 3 MAX for large scale prototypes for items that are big. I needed at least a length of 16" to print some parts I was planning to do. But I can see from your review that the printing results are less than what I'm used to. I noticed in the background that you also have a Bambu Lab X1C which I'm enthralled with and like that kind of quality. So comparatively speaking the N4MAX doesn't come as cloooooose as I hoped, many of the big parts I need to make need at least SOME accuracy with large parts. Since you are so knowledgeable and very technical I wanted to ask: Since I don't care as much about pricing ($2500 would be pushing it but if something really was perfect I'd go to $3000) is there a large size FDM printer than you know of that can print at least in one axis as long as something 16" long that has better quality? (16" x 8" x 8") would be a good start. Thanks for any feedback. And super-appreciated the technical detail!
So following @Smokinjoewhite advice and my own printing at 0.8mm extrution lines. I did the trash can at 0.32mm layer hight with a 1.2mm extrution. It is so pretty. Will experiment with the 0.8mm nozzle on my CR-10s printer next.
Weeelllll......."only reason is to print big" :-) Im looking for another printer with large bed, to print many small objects one at a time. Mainly because the printers run in an adjecting room while I work at my office. This channel does the best reviews, :-)
Hello Aurora, congratulations on your programs, I recently acquired this N4max printer and I have successfully used your profiles for the Prusa Slicer 0.4 nozzle, what parameter of your profiles would you recommend that I adjust for a 0.8 nozzle?
I have a Neptune 4 max. Nothing but issues. I am on the current firmware loaded 3 times to try and fix my issues. 1. Input shaper errors out. 2. Printer stops randomly before finishing model, print head just stops where it’s at. The digital display does not show an error it still thinks it’s printing the temp still shows 215 and 70 on the bed. But the bed and print head are cold. 3. Elegoo rapid filament broke of in the extruded and in the tube below the gear melted in the extruder. I am not able to get it out with out breaking the extruder. I have been working with support for over 2 weeks I am currently waiting on extruder replacement. But I believe that that they need to send me a mains board because of my issues. Well it looks like I the part will not show up until next year sometime. Right now I have $500 paper weight. If you are interested in this 3d printer wait 2 - 3 months to see if the issues are fixed.
PrusaSlicer, BambuStudio, and OrcaSlicer are much better, especially when slicing tolerance and clearance prints. Cura always requires more effort to achieve the same result.
I like Elegoo interface and support. I didn't like Kobra Max. Is new Klipper Kobra Max better because of metal wheels? I don't like bed leveling screws/springs in Elegoo - bed level is off too quick.
Are you just kinda going off experience when you change your settings? I’m planning on getting one of these printers in the near future, but I’m not the most tech savvy guy out there and the settings worry me a bit.
There are more cons, especially some, why you should not buy an Elegoo FDM printer. One: Detached and headless Armbian OS. Two: Detached and modified Klipper installation without any proper config. Three: They used the desktop variant of Armbian which is completely uneccessary. Four: Within a subfolder on the desktop a compiled binary is constantly executed generating a system load overwriting the barebones Klipper config with values from a custom config file. Five: the proprietary display overall. Anyways: other nozzles are available on Ali and there are options to de-elegoo the printer getting a fresh Klipper running. There's no pinout provided for the ZNP board so you have to take account of that.
Great review, is there a way with a powerunit stronger like 500w or 600w let us have a bed temperature higher than 85°C ? like 95°C ? Maybe modifying klipper to reach that temperature ? Do you have some issues about build quality of the printer ? I hear that you have to check belt tension because it can change over time. Do you have tips to print well at the beginning ? It will be my first 3D printer, and I know it's more "complicated" to get good results with a printer like that, expecially if beginner. What if your feeling about that, and tips ? Thanks again for this review, Thanks Aurora Tech and others, who will reply my comment and try to answer to my questions ! LOVE ALL
I dont think the bed limits to 85 just bcoz of the wattage, but you can connect and external power to heat bed if you want to reduce load on the stock power supply, this is only bcoz the bed power lines are connected to a mosfit and not directly to the motherboard.
Hi, it depends on the massive print bed, since it is only driven by a single belt and motor and only moved on 6 instead of at least 12 POM rubber wheels, they needed to decrease the maximum acceleration to 4000mm/s^2. All though they say it is capable of 8000, it is much much better to go at 4000, as it would wear out or possibly dance the printer faster. As the printhead is very light weight, the maximum acceleration could be set to 8000, but not the bed. Hope this could help. If you prefer a steadier printer in terms of the movement and drive of the bed, the Anycubic Kobra 2 Max is at 10000mm/s^2 on all X and Y as it uses linear rods and steel wheels, also 12 instead of the Elegoo Neptune 4 Max‘ 6 and has two and thicker belt driven by a very big motor. The choice between these two is for me personally very hard, maybe you know more precise information about what to consider buying a bigger and faster printer!
I don't know if you watched any of the other big reviewers videos but you had less trouble than everyone else. I guess they are finally sending out machines without all the bugs. Others UA-camrs had the motors grinding and the print nozzle digging in to the bed. Myself, I've had my Max 4 for three weeks and haven't gotten one good print.. not even a benchy. The printers only a month old and they already have like 20 different firmware versions?!
I won't watch other reviews on a machine I'm about to test. This helps me maintain a fresh perspective and evaluate the machine solely based on my firsthand experience.
I love my Neptune 4 Pro but I'm waiting for a Neptune 4 Pro Max with steel rollers on steel rails. This should slightly increase print quality while increasing long term durability when a large printer moves this fast. I don't know why companies don't use Volcano nozzles for their fast printers that need high flow nozzles. Proprietary nozzles are bad enough but only having 0.4 mm nozzles is unacceptable.
@@aminorinternet - I definitely considered the Kobra 2 Max. I'd need to eliminate the side reel and reverse Bowden tube. I print a lot of TPU and it needs to feed from above with no Bowden tube for minimal drag, and I don't have room for that large printer and a reel hanging off the side. I'd also seen some reviews mentioning problems with WiFi connectivity and cloud printing. Cloud printing is a non-starter for me. With my Neptune 4 Pro, I can print from my computer, either from a Fluidd tab in my web browser that has complete control and monitoring of the Neptune 4 Pro, or directly from PrusaSlicer via WiFi. Are you using a USB thumb drive to transfer prints, a cloud server, or WiFi to transfer files? Honestly, at this point, I'm liking the Neptune 4 Pro so much that I really want a larger version of that printer so I don't need to learn anything new and can prototype on the smaller printer and run larger production jobs on the larger printer.
Did you update the firmware or was it done prior to you receiving it? I am on multiple chat rooms for the N4M it seems everyone is forced to do a firmware up out of the box or they have a lot of printing issues.
Thanks so much for the review and tests! Could you use the bamboo lab X1 to replace the Neptune 4 Max hotend? My thermistor broke getting replacement but wanted something available
My Kobra 2 max seems to have better print quality. This is probably due to the linear rods it uses on the Y and X axis. However, the locked down Klipper is annoying. You have to use the anycubic cloud service if you want to send files to your printer. (Or use a USB key)
Wait, you're comparing the time to the non-input shaping Prusa Mk4? They've had input shaping out for months! You should really update that number for the MK4
My question; is this machine “upgradeable”? What I mean is are the cheap axis wheels the same size as the steel wheels? If they are you could purchase them later and upgrade. Is the power supply swappable? Meaning if you ordered a power supply for the mk.3 could you swap it in and get the higher bed temperatures? And I suppose if someone had a lathe or a mill they could make larger nozzles and the software would support them? If so, I’ve found my Christmass present.
400W PSU with a DC heated bed instead of AC for a bed this big is very disappointing. It’s the same size PSU as normal bedslingers that have only 1/4th the bed surface area of this model. Also it’s surprising they didn’t make the bed with segmented heat zones like their own Neptune 4 Pro. A segmented bed is arguably more beneficial for such a large size. If they had a smaller heater segment for smaller sized prints, it might even solve the slow heatup time issue and save electricity.
I don’t know if it’s the same on the Max, but on my 4 Pro I’ve been just not using the auxiliary fans for the last couple months and I haven’t noticed any difference in quality. Maybe they’re necessary at 500mm/s, but really the printer can’t go that fast so I don’t think they’re really needed if you want your printer going quietly.
I am a bit late, but how would you compare it to a Sovol SV07 pro/plus? I trying to decide between a neptune4 Plus and SV07 Plus, and both are very similar
The missing bigger nosel size and also that the nosel on the Neptune 4/4pro and the Neptune 4plus/max are incompatible are a deal breaker! Any Idea for a volcano hotblock seller?
Been looking at reviews on this printer for days this is the only review on UA-cam with a proper in depth look at the hardware.
This has become one of my favorite reviewers, a real skillful reviewer and not just one of those influencers. I wish she will review the Neptune 4 Plus and Creality 3 V3 KE also.
💯. And HOW?!? I ASK HOW, with so many printers/lasers/CnCs being sold/ made/ released every month does this channel NOT have a 100k subs… 🤯
Hopefully the Adsense Gods will smile on this channel one day and push these quality videos to youths instead of reposted Tik-Toc dances. 🤞
Agreed. No nonsense. Just the info you need. No wasted time, no fake personality. Maybe that's what gets views these days though.
There is an adaptive speed setting which slows movement down as the print gets taller, this can be activated on the neptune screen settings. It prevents the ringing and imperfections.
Best 3d printer reviews on UA-cam. The channel I always use to get the best information on this topic.
For those that don't realise, you can easily push 0.8mm or even 1mm lines in vase mode with a 0.4mm nozzle. I have been doing it with near 100% success for years.
Great tip!
Yep, line width can be set up to 1 and a half times the nozzle size.
Width right?
Agreed. I just up the temperature for the extra flow needed. Also works on ABS.
@@3dprintedhardware - Yes, but Smokinjoewhite is recommending 2.0 to 2.5 times the nozzle diameter.
interesting, they must have updated that because it now has a 19min pre-sliced speed benchie, and damn its CLEAN too! The Aux fans really aren't needed unless its really printing at over 300mm speed, and ya, its noisy. Speed comes at the cost of needing better cooling, so noise is the trade off. Quick Edit: DO NOT USE GLUE on the PEI sheet, it is entirely un-needed, if you having issues getting things to stick, its your settings, not the PEI sheet. Also DO CLEAN THE PLATE with IPA (or hot soapy water) as PEI is picky about finger oils. I have no idea as to why Elegoo included a glue stick, because that just isn't needed for the type of plate.
… ABS requires a higher bed temp than able to by machine. She fought that by using glue. She didn’t use glue on other prints. 😂
@@Arcadeic the bed is rated to 100c, firmware update (aka fixed the printer.cfg setting) fixed that low max bed setting. Also with klipper you can override those settings and set it higher yourself, though with the low wattage bed heater it has, it might take a long time to get up to temp.
I found that the glue is used for the OTHER side of the build plate, the smooth side. It works great, still not a big fan of using glue but that smooth side needs it (tried without it with limited success).
How is this channel not coming up ahead of all the brand boys? This is insanely thorough and very well thought out!
As always an excellent review. I have come to the decision over time that your reviews and opinions matter most to me when deciding whether to upgrade to another printer. Thanks Aurora Tech and please continue to keep us so well informed.
I usually speed up videos on UA-cam, but your voice is so calming. Thank you 😊
Thanks Aurora for this review. I was waiting for this review. I was confused between V3 SE and NP Max 4. Now things are lot clear. She is my favourite reviewers and all her reviews are very consistent as she prints same model so that any machine can be compared with other.
Excellent and very comprehensive review and not to mention the very direct and honest comments to the pros and cons of the model. My very first channel for 3d printers review. Thank you.
i bought this printer today. thanks for the rundown. looks like it'll be solid for doing volume. trusting the universe on this business taking off! 🤘
3:10 - Instead of the traditional bed leveling with paper shim over each leveling screw, I now run the automated bed leveling routine and look at the offset values over each leveling screw and adjust them all at the same time. It's faster, easier and makes a more level bed. I usually do this 2-3 times to get a very level bed, then save the final automated bed leveling calibration.
How do you go about reading the number after the auto level, bottom left set of number is the front left wheel im assuming?
@@MyGuyNoob - My description was a bit confusing. The Neptune 4 Pro displays a numerical map of the automated bed calibration on the 3D printer's screen. The center where the Z offset was probed is zero and the rest of the map is relative to that. I use those numbers on the screen to manually adjust the bed to make it level, then run the auto bed leveling again until it's as level as possible.
@Liberty4Ever yeah I've done the same coming from the ender 3 v2.
But I see what you're saying.
One last obvious question, you check tour z offset once you're done level?
@@MyGuyNoob - I don't verify the auto Z offset by any measurement, but I'll enter a small Z offset correction for the best first layer and I'll save that minor correction. On my Neptune 4 Pro, the auto Z offset makes a good first layer, but I'll tweak it a little bit to make it better in my opinion. I do small scale manufacturing and the largest volume product is a tall TPU part with very little first layer contact. Those parts print reliably (start a job and walk away without waiting for the first layer), but that first layer goes down hot and pressed firmly into the textured PEI build surface.
Impressive retraction performance on this printer.
One of the best reviews I have seen just for the details and settings you used on the printer
OMG! The bloopers are great. Love that giggle.
Made to make extra large project should have extra large nozzles, i agree.
and steel on steel would last longer.
Great review and suggestions.
got a good chuckle when i saw the smiley face written on her hand
great review, I'm considering this printer
I pray 🙏 @elegoo watches and implement the suggestions @21:14 before sending out the Gigas.
I know they offer nozzel packs with the kickstarter, which is great, but many of the short comings with this printer could be deviating on a printer 200% scale of the Max. ❤
Great succinct vid. I sent the max 3 back because of no klipper or easy lan access but Elegoo were amazing and miles better than creality with no questions asked. You are amazing...!
I have been waiting on this review for a while now.
i got a 20min benchy on my usb stick with my neptune 4 max.
good review 👍
in depth as always. klipper is very exciting for the consumer space
setting different x and y accel's doesn't usually work in klipper, as it doesn't support it on the mainline branch. If you have root access to the host, you can add some custom kinematics to get around this, but you need to use a post script to change them dynamically
this channel has become the best channel voor information and reviews of printers and other tech!!
Excellent review! I’m just looking the market for a big machine. Ended up with the K2 max instead, but really like elegoo with stock Klipper.
Found your channel through the Next Layer channel. You guys are just across the bay from me.
Thank you for the review, was waiting for this one! :) It is very unfortunate they decreased the bed temperature that much, this really can't print ABS and those other more difficult filaments on any larger prints even if they advertise it. I need good quality ABS/ASA/Nylon prints, and this just doesn't handle those. Even if the little print shown on the review is "passable", anything larger and higher would just fall apart (I think). The proprietary nozzle is the second reason why I won't be getting this one.
I am impressed by the professionalism of the review. You have a new follower. Smashed the Subscribe button!
Hi, the upcoming big bamboo printer could be interesting. I hope they add a active chamber heating to that one. Anyways i like the bloopers part the best, there we can see the "always so serious face" Aurora smiling :)
Keep up the fantastic reviews!
Very good video! Info is well presented and clear, very professionally done. I am on the fence about getting a bigger bed slinger, as you say. I am happy with my Elegoo Neptune 3 pro, so I have faith in the brand.
Those are good improvements over the 3 Max for just $40 more 😃
Still the best printer reviews on UA-cam! Too bad I did not watch this video before ordering the Neptune 4 Max otherwise I would have not ordered it. The POM wheels and the bed leveling are a deal breaker for me. I will try to send back.
Follow this channel closely and you will buy many more printers in the future, as i did.
This is a top Neptune 4 Max Review. Thank you.
How old are these kids? OMG!
Super high quality channel and reviews!
I'd love to see a video where you explain why you've moved from Cura to Prusa (or why you simply don't use Cura if that is more accurate)
Impartial. very well presented and explained. the best review of this printer that I have seewn in a few weeks of looking into it liked and subscribed
Great review as always. I'm not sure what the point of the 'Max' is, sure it's a great 'value' but value for what exactly, it's too slow to take advantage of it's size, any print large enough to make the Max necessary is literally going to to take a WEEK at 200ms, and if it fails.... This is literally a product without a use case.
Aurora you can print a 0.7mm line width with a 0.4mm nozzle in vase mode.
Also I bet that the retraction is "good" if you set it a 2.0mm mm with a fast speed direct drive ;) , try something like 0.3-0.7mm maybe as 2.0mm kills both speed and surface quality.
Excellent review as always! I especially appreciated your points on the weak power supply and the lack of input shaping at Max Z height. It would be interesting to test how much of a difference placing the printer on a concrete floor, instead of a desk, would have on quality near the top of the print, as the printer wouldn't slosh around so much.
Keep up the great work!
Excellent review as always, I already bought the Kobra 2 Pro because of your video , it is a fast, economical and easy to use option.
I think the Kobra 2 Max is also a better option in the aspects I mentioned, has lower nozzle temperature capacity but i don't need to print high temperature materials .
It would be interesting if you made a video comparing these two machines since they are the most similar in price and size
I am on your side! Would be awesome to see that.
I am still wondering what types of filament some one would print using these machines.
The only thing that still keeps me a bit away front the Elegoo Neptune 4 Max is that the Anycubic Kobra 2 Max has not the same print quality, i saw that the clearance in the Kobra 2 pro review isn’t really good allthough it has the all metal guide rails, a more stable design and auto-calibration, which should work OK, but maybe than the part cooling sets the limit.
It has 500W and heats up more quicker, and you can still print PETG with it, but the bed isn‘t insulated well enough. The choice still is hard, maybe you can give me a more precise opinion;-) so we might come to a good and appropriate decision.
Wish you a good night🤩
@@BBLX1C You can replace the Kobra 2 heat breaks with ones from the Vyper(preferably bimetallic) and use standard volcano nozzles, which makes it more versatile.
@@BBLX1C There are a couple of things that I didn't like like the Auto z offset that I couldn't print at first because it was too close to the bed and it's supposed to do an automatic leveling in the z to print even if it's not a perfect first layer but I had It takes a while to adjust because you can't adjust the Z offset unless you're printing.
It makes some strange noises so it seems to me that the machine was not yet ready to go on the market, the application works and is interesting but it still lacks the camera function.
But my main objective when buying the Kobra 2 is because it is fast and simple, it is a demon in speed with quite acceptable quality.
I look forward to your reviews. They're always so in-depth and detailed. Thank you for all your hard work 👍👍
Thank you so much for the video! bought this printer because of your review! can you please share your prusca profile when you get a moment.
Just, just put it under the video description.
If I add this profile to PrusaSlicer for the Neptune 4 Plus is it just the plate build size that needs to be altered in the settings
Прекрасные и полные обзоры с аналитикой🔥
Great video as always 👍😀
I print with Nylon almost exclusively. It's a good idea to turn off ALL cooling fans for printing when using Nylon because it can cause all sorts of issues, including blobbing. So I suggest making sure the fans are off next time.
I want to print a Mailbox, this might actually be perfect! :) Great Video!
They should use the same steel guides used on Neptune 4 Pro, for X and Y axis. These rubber wheels will develop bumps that are spaced around 70mm.
They bring out a new model every three months so I guess it will be the Neptune 4 Pro Max next.
Anyone know of an easy way to swap out the guides for steel ones. I’m already seeing the rubber wear some on the edges though i have been putting quite a few hours on it lately
Another great review, thank you! This machine is somewhat on my radar for a future purchase, but I will likely wait as it seems now is not the time to buy printers since manufacturers keep one-upping each other every month or two. Can't wait to see what is on the horizon. I am curious though, why will you not use Cura? Sometimes Prusa/SS is better, but overall Cura is still the best for many reasons (in my opinion).
As always very cool and detailed review
Would love to see klp1 kingroon
Thank you so much for upoding the config file. gracais
Hi, I love your content. Best reviews on the web. I'd love to see a review on the Kobra 2 Max for comparison purposes. I'm torn between the two, and I'm sure there are MANY more in the same position...
First absolutely love the channel and content, based some purchases on your reviews, do you have a review or recommendation on smoke purification. Keep up the great work 🎉
Wow, I was highly impressed at the detailed and clear review that you did. VERY professional and highly informative. I bought the Neptune 3 MAX for large scale prototypes for items that are big. I needed at least a length of 16" to print some parts I was planning to do. But I can see from your review that the printing results are less than what I'm used to. I noticed in the background that you also have a Bambu Lab X1C which I'm enthralled with and like that kind of quality. So comparatively speaking the N4MAX doesn't come as cloooooose as I hoped, many of the big parts I need to make need at least SOME accuracy with large parts. Since you are so knowledgeable and very technical I wanted to ask: Since I don't care as much about pricing ($2500 would be pushing it but if something really was perfect I'd go to $3000) is there a large size FDM printer than you know of that can print at least in one axis as long as something 16" long that has better quality? (16" x 8" x 8") would be a good start. Thanks for any feedback. And super-appreciated the technical detail!
I am going to review more large-scale printers soon, including a fully enclosed 400mm³ in Jan, please stay tune.
Man, that things massive
Another great review.
Where can I find the model for the tolerance test?
So following @Smokinjoewhite advice and my own printing at 0.8mm extrution lines. I did the trash can at 0.32mm layer hight with a 1.2mm extrution. It is so pretty. Will experiment with the 0.8mm nozzle on my CR-10s printer next.
Weeelllll......."only reason is to print big" :-) Im looking for another printer with large bed, to print many small objects one at a time. Mainly because the printers run in an adjecting room while I work at my office.
This channel does the best reviews, :-)
Hello Aurora, congratulations on your programs, I recently acquired this N4max printer and I have successfully used your profiles for the Prusa Slicer 0.4 nozzle, what parameter of your profiles would you recommend that I adjust for a 0.8 nozzle?
Everybody fighting for core xy share. Meanwhile Elegoo taking the cheap market with great bedslingers.
Excellent review as always! Please share your Prusa profile.
Just, just put it under the video description.
Great review as usual! Do you have the link to that accuracy test you did? Thanks!
I have a Neptune 4 max. Nothing but issues. I am on the current firmware loaded 3 times to try and fix my issues. 1. Input shaper errors out. 2. Printer stops randomly before finishing model, print head just stops where it’s at. The digital display does not show an error it still thinks it’s printing the temp still shows 215 and 70 on the bed. But the bed and print head are cold. 3. Elegoo rapid filament broke of in the extruded and in the tube below the gear melted in the extruder. I am not able to get it out with out breaking the extruder. I have been working with support for over 2 weeks I am currently waiting on extruder replacement. But I believe that that they need to send me a mains board because of my issues. Well it looks like I the part will not show up until next year sometime. Right now I have $500 paper weight. If you are interested in this 3d printer wait 2 - 3 months to see if the issues are fixed.
Why won't you use Cura anymore?
PrusaSlicer, BambuStudio, and OrcaSlicer are much better, especially when slicing tolerance and clearance prints. Cura always requires more effort to achieve the same result.
I like Elegoo interface and support. I didn't like Kobra Max. Is new Klipper Kobra Max better because of metal wheels? I don't like bed leveling screws/springs in Elegoo - bed level is off too quick.
I was out the second i saw you pull out the piece of paper... We dont live in the dark ages anymore and i refuse to go back
Are you just kinda going off experience when you change your settings? I’m planning on getting one of these printers in the near future, but I’m not the most tech savvy guy out there and the settings worry me a bit.
Fantastic video!
Why dont you use cura anymore? Just curious
Thank You!
Klipper is everywhere now
There are more cons, especially some, why you should not buy an Elegoo FDM printer. One: Detached and headless Armbian OS. Two: Detached and modified Klipper installation without any proper config. Three: They used the desktop variant of Armbian which is completely uneccessary. Four: Within a subfolder on the desktop a compiled binary is constantly executed generating a system load overwriting the barebones Klipper config with values from a custom config file. Five: the proprietary display overall.
Anyways: other nozzles are available on Ali and there are options to de-elegoo the printer getting a fresh Klipper running. There's no pinout provided for the ZNP board so you have to take account of that.
Great review, is there a way with a powerunit stronger like 500w or 600w let us have a bed temperature higher than 85°C ? like 95°C ? Maybe modifying klipper to reach that temperature ?
Do you have some issues about build quality of the printer ? I hear that you have to check belt tension because it can change over time.
Do you have tips to print well at the beginning ?
It will be my first 3D printer, and I know it's more "complicated" to get good results with a printer like that, expecially if beginner. What if your feeling about that, and tips ?
Thanks again for this review, Thanks Aurora Tech and others, who will reply my comment and try to answer to my questions !
LOVE ALL
I dont think the bed limits to 85 just bcoz of the wattage, but you can connect and external power to heat bed if you want to reduce load on the stock power supply, this is only bcoz the bed power lines are connected to a mosfit and not directly to the motherboard.
Hey Aurora tech love your vids. Keep up the good work. I would like to know why you set the machine to 8K and 4K?
Hi, it depends on the massive print bed, since it is only driven by a single belt and motor and only moved on 6 instead of at least 12 POM rubber wheels, they needed to decrease the maximum acceleration to 4000mm/s^2. All though they say it is capable of 8000, it is much much better to go at 4000, as it would wear out or possibly dance the printer faster. As the printhead is very light weight, the maximum acceleration could be set to 8000, but not the bed.
Hope this could help.
If you prefer a steadier printer in terms of the movement and drive of the bed, the Anycubic Kobra 2 Max is at 10000mm/s^2 on all X and Y as it uses linear rods and steel wheels, also 12 instead of the Elegoo Neptune 4 Max‘ 6 and has two and thicker belt driven by a very big motor.
The choice between these two is for me personally very hard, maybe you know more precise information about what to consider buying a bigger and faster printer!
@@BBLX1C thank you
Where can we grab that honey comb box you made as a torture test? I would love to try it. Great video btw, thank you!😋
I don't know if you watched any of the other big reviewers videos but you had less trouble than everyone else. I guess they are finally sending out machines without all the bugs. Others UA-camrs had the motors grinding and the print nozzle digging in to the bed. Myself, I've had my Max 4 for three weeks and haven't gotten one good print.. not even a benchy. The printers only a month old and they already have like 20 different firmware versions?!
I won't watch other reviews on a machine I'm about to test. This helps me maintain a fresh perspective and evaluate the machine solely based on my firsthand experience.
@@AuroraTechGreat approach. Does this in fact mean you didn’t have the aforementioned issues with the virtual end stops and grinding?
I love my Neptune 4 Pro but I'm waiting for a Neptune 4 Pro Max with steel rollers on steel rails. This should slightly increase print quality while increasing long term durability when a large printer moves this fast. I don't know why companies don't use Volcano nozzles for their fast printers that need high flow nozzles. Proprietary nozzles are bad enough but only having 0.4 mm nozzles is unacceptable.
Just get the Kobra 2 max. It’s basically that.
@@aminorinternet - I definitely considered the Kobra 2 Max. I'd need to eliminate the side reel and reverse Bowden tube. I print a lot of TPU and it needs to feed from above with no Bowden tube for minimal drag, and I don't have room for that large printer and a reel hanging off the side. I'd also seen some reviews mentioning problems with WiFi connectivity and cloud printing. Cloud printing is a non-starter for me. With my Neptune 4 Pro, I can print from my computer, either from a Fluidd tab in my web browser that has complete control and monitoring of the Neptune 4 Pro, or directly from PrusaSlicer via WiFi. Are you using a USB thumb drive to transfer prints, a cloud server, or WiFi to transfer files?
Honestly, at this point, I'm liking the Neptune 4 Pro so much that I really want a larger version of that printer so I don't need to learn anything new and can prototype on the smaller printer and run larger production jobs on the larger printer.
Did you update the firmware or was it done prior to you receiving it? I am on multiple chat rooms for the N4M it seems everyone is forced to do a firmware up out of the box or they have a lot of printing issues.
Thanks so much for the review and tests! Could you use the bamboo lab X1 to replace the Neptune 4 Max hotend? My thermistor broke getting replacement but wanted something available
Thanks Aurora incl the downloadable profil in INI.....any chance you can make available same in JSON? thank you
Have you testes the Anycubic Kobra 2 Max? How does this compare?
Looking for a large printer and looking at these two mainly.
Yes, will also review that later this month.
My Kobra 2 max seems to have better print quality. This is probably due to the linear rods it uses on the Y and X axis.
However, the locked down Klipper is annoying. You have to use the anycubic cloud service if you want to send files to your printer. (Or use a USB key)
So, among those big scale printers, which one would you prefer? Elegoo Neptune 4 Max or Anycubic Kobra 2 Max?
Wait, you're comparing the time to the non-input shaping Prusa Mk4? They've had input shaping out for months! You should really update that number for the MK4
I am still having problems with leveling and the first layer is getting snagged buy the fan behind it.
My question; is this machine “upgradeable”? What I mean is are the cheap axis wheels the same size as the steel wheels? If they are you could purchase them later and upgrade. Is the power supply swappable? Meaning if you ordered a power supply for the mk.3 could you swap it in and get the higher bed temperatures? And I suppose if someone had a lathe or a mill they could make larger nozzles and the software would support them? If so, I’ve found my Christmass present.
400W PSU with a DC heated bed instead of AC for a bed this big is very disappointing. It’s the same size PSU as normal bedslingers that have only 1/4th the bed surface area of this model.
Also it’s surprising they didn’t make the bed with segmented heat zones like their own Neptune 4 Pro. A segmented bed is arguably more beneficial for such a large size. If they had a smaller heater segment for smaller sized prints, it might even solve the slow heatup time issue and save electricity.
日本では、ほとんど言われないけど
実は、ネプチューンは、
最高です！
クリアリティより
いや、他のどのプリンターより
近い価格帯なら負けることは
ありません。
I don’t know if it’s the same on the Max, but on my 4 Pro I’ve been just not using the auxiliary fans for the last couple months and I haven’t noticed any difference in quality. Maybe they’re necessary at 500mm/s, but really the printer can’t go that fast so I don’t think they’re really needed if you want your printer going quietly.
Do you have a good prusa profile for the Neptune 4 Plus?
I am a bit late, but how would you compare it to a Sovol SV07 pro/plus?
I trying to decide between a neptune4 Plus and SV07 Plus, and both are very similar
What do you recommend between this and AnyCubic Kobra 2, and why?
hi do you have prusa profiles of printing LW PLA?
The laugh at the end. 😂
Will you review the anycubic kobra 2 max?
Also, I heard that Elegoo has a very old compilation of Klipper on their N4 series - can you just update the machine via Fluidd and not have a brick?
Hi! Does the Neptune 4 Max have the same print quality as the Neptune 4 Plus?
Is it possible to upgrade the bed heater in the future?
The missing bigger nosel size and also that the nosel on the Neptune 4/4pro and the Neptune 4plus/max are incompatible are a deal breaker!
Any Idea for a volcano hotblock seller?
Is Neptune 4 a better machine than the Anycubic Kobra 2 Max?