Hands down @AuroraTech is the best reviewer of 3D printers on UA-cam. It's awesome to see the print comparisons with other printers and great feedback for improvements. Thank you!
Very good test that reflects the strengths and weaknesses of the MK4S and the MMU3 well. I really noticed how much effort you put in, in contrast to the MK4 test. The accuracy of the MK4S at top speed is impressive. The use of the MMU3 could be smoother, you're right. But it is all the better in use. I believed in the development of the MK4 right from the start and that's why I opted for it. You can rely on Prusa in this respect, just as you can rely on the delivery problems when they bring out something new. And I'm sure Prusa isn't finished with the MK4 yet.
Im actually a voron fan, but the thing i love about vorons in my print farm is you never need to buy a new printer, as new tech comes out you just incorporate it into the printer. Recently upgraded to the inductive probes and their fantastic. Prusa is similar, but with more support, Everyone bangs on about bamboo, but after about 1500 hours the rails need replacing and its like a 6.5 hour job. most people cant do. Prusa is a couple of screws. Same as voron. For a heavy print farm i think long run prusa or vorons makes a lot of sense. But more for a someone just printing for themselfs a bamboo makes sense. I think people with x1cs and p1ps with print farms are going to regret it when it comes time to replace all their parts.
I am on 2+ years (Kick starter backer)and 8k+ hours of printing and my carbon rods are fine. So where are you getting this 1.5 year life span? Keep up with general maintenance and any machine can go years without major part replacements.
@@No0o0o0o0o0 My Friend Bamboo are is serious trouble, their likely going to file bankrupt. Their locked down machines will have no support. Statysis are going to ahnialate them in court over their theft of pataints, their entire USA and Europe market will collapse overnight as they will be banned from selling there. Bamboo is going to go under. Open source vorons are the best bet. Ive got bamboo x1c and my vorons are faster more reliable and every part can be changed as the tech changes. Reminds me of games consoles. Yeah their great when they come out, but a pc will always beat them as the tech comes out so much faster and you can upgrade each component.. Pcs are always a step ahead.
There not going to replace the parts they will just chuck it out and buy a new because at that point the printer would be payed off. I have a feeling in a couple years landfills are just gonna be full of these printers
@@jaydenjegachandran557 No clue what he prints but from what I print I have no major issues. Again proper maintenance wins the day. What's notable is when Bambu first came out people stated nothing can be fixed and everything is glued or welded down and it's ewaste 1 yr later it was, you can't get parts, BL is "against right to repair" ..etc. 2 years later it's it can take you a long time to repair . What I find interesting is that there have active wiki, videos and plenty of parts at reasonable prices and still the goal posts keep getting moved.🤔 I have ignored those folks as they have a preset agenda and their "preferred brand" is always better. When faced with factual information they pull the " but actually" and pull some data point from some rando source.
This is the first review I've ever watched that was posted by you. I must say, the detail which you provide, comparisons to other systems, and the overall experience you bring to your review is truly top notch. Thank you for your dedication and hard work as well as thoughtful content.
Thanks for this! And wow, watching that trash can be printed at 26 mm3/s in PETG is quitesomething. Impressive performance, that shows Prusa are definitely still in the game!
You can use "No Sparse layers (Experimental)" in the Multiple Extruders section of Print settings. That way the purge tower is only used on colour changes, not for every layer. It works really well although experimental. You just need to keep in mind the Z axis has to come down, so keep your model away from the purge tower (Y-axis)
Awesome review! I've tried finding information on the MMU3 to find waste information, and yet for some reason I struggled to find anything. People who had it only commented on how well it worked. I like this solution, and I hope the poop purges on other machines disappear. Great job!
Thank you for yet another great review video! I super appreciate your methodical and scientific approach to reviews. Your commitment to doing the same tests with the same models every time makes it so we can actually do an apples to apples comparison. Thank you!
Your reviews are the most thorough I've seen on YT. BY FAR. I continue to be impressed. Im glad this review came out as I'm looking to expand my mini-farm and i think this is the machine for it. Also.. I spy with my little the K2 PLUS! Very curious to see your thoughts as a multiple K1 owner.👍👍
Awesome work. It is great to see Prusa back in the game. In that price range it competes with the P1S complete with an AMS. Needless to say it is a very difficult competition. I think Prusa is targeting the farmers market, though. Very likely he is not expecting this machine to beat bambu in sales to hobbyists. But for people with Prusa farms, maybe. He likely will offer discounts for bulk sales. It is also a very difficult competition because of the price of the bambu A1. You get more than 2 A1s for 1 MK4S. Unless you have real estate restrictions or you are worried about the electricity bill, it is a no brainer.
@@eaman11 Not necessarily; a lot of variables can affect print quality, and bambu's X1 and P1 series are very well-tuned. Plus you're comparing a bed slinger to a core XY.
@@eaman11 Entirely possible. I am saying it is a difficult competition because the P1S is a very good printer, it is corexy (which to me doesn't matter, but some people hate bed slingers) and enclosed. For 849 USD it comes assembled and with the AMS. You would have to pay 799 USD for an unassembled MK4S with no MMU. I don't have a P1S. I have an A1 with the AMS lite. I like it very much. I have had many printers, some very expensive, the A1 is better than all of them. The MK4s is probably better than the A1, but the A1 is good enough for me.
@@marcellofialho677 A1 has less VFA than P1, that's because of the custom belts that has a flat part and the fact that belts are way shorter and have to pass through less pulleys. Also the A1 has flow compensation.
I bought one of the kits a couple weeks ago and it’s been super cool. I actually knew nothing about it when I got it. I just got it because we’d just got one in at work
Well done young lady, so glad to see you with Voxel support. I have been using Voxel for 6 or 9 months with outstanding results. I had ungraded my trusty old CR 10S Pro V1 with Direct Drive, Dual cooling fans, Y Axis Linear rails, Micro Swiss Hot End and lastly KLIPPER on a PI 4 board with 7 inch touch screen Oh Boy. With Voxel PLA this baby will print, PETG. well I have to slow it down a tad but the quality is just awesome for my Trains. Great review as usual, you do a marvelous job. Thank You, Thank your Mom & Dad for me. They have done a marvelous job. Take care, D
You guys are the best, very thorough and fair 🙂 I saw the need for more cooling on the MK4 with some PLA filaments, mainly colored translucents, and I look forward to the S cooling upgrade. Showing the purging volume array for MMU3 printing was great. I found with black to white I had to get close to 300 on the setting to not have bleed over.
just wanted to say thank you for the review. I already purchased mine but i agree with all of what you said in your review. i personally had been using the prusa mini as my go to printer but now i'm incorporating the mk4s. i like it... it just works and in my country, prusament is one of the only filaments for petg and other non-pla filaments that are available locally and have a print profile ready to go with both 0.4mm and 0.6mm nozzles. Everything just works.... i plan to get the MMU at some point and the filament poop from the bambulabs x1c with AMS was a turnoff for me. Also, i don't like cloud printing. and just recently they started selling an upgrade kit for the mk4s to the core one.... looks very nice but very expensive.
The young lady continues to send all the other reviewers to school 👍 My experience with my fours MK4s has been excellent, I can count my failures on one hand with each printer having done 2500 hours of printing in 6 months.
"My experience with my fours MK4s has been excellent, I can count my failures on one hand with each printer having done 2500 hours of printing in 6 months." It's Oct 2024 how have you completed 6 months when the printer was released in Aug of 2024? which is 2 months ago? 🤔
I may be the only one who's affected by it, but the speed at which you speak makes it challenging for me to keep up. And that's not good because you have a lot to teach me. Subbed and liked.
Hey @AuroraTech, thanks for another great review. Like many others, I'm wavering between an MK4S and an X1C, and in this video, you did a bunch of technical tests and even compared them to prints from X1C. When I look at the X1C review, I see you don't have them there (I suspect you have added them to your routine since you made that video) Is there a video I'm not finding with the in-depth technical review of X1C that this video does? I'm interested in creating functional parts -- dimensional accuracy and reliable prints are more important to me than speed or nice multi-color prints.
Great video! Very detailed and well explained as always! I had an MMU2, and as you mentioned in one of your previous videos, it was really hard to get it working properly-I’d say it was quite unstable. I had to babysit it to complete almost every print. After a month of use, in your opinion, do you think the MMU3 is worth it? Does it print from start to finish without requiring human intervention? Thank you!
Mi Sovol04 IDEX imprimió el test de retracción (Honeycomb box) en 2 horas y 20 minutos con las velocidades bastante por debajo de las que tu has enseñado en el video. Imprimí dos cajitas de una vez con los dos extrusore. La verdad es que mi impresora vuela y con una calidad excelente, la tengo calibrada perfectamente. La utilizo principalmente para imprimir modelos de arquitectura paramétrica hechos en Rhinoceros+Grasshopper.
Something that seemed to be completely missing from this review and seems to be missing from most 3D printing reviews is discussion of the software integration. One of the if not the main selling point of these prusa and BL printers is the fact that you don't have to do a bunch of profile tuning to get good prints. I feel like people who started in 3D printing years ago and are just used to having to do a bunch of profile tuning Don't really understand just how important that is. People who are just getting into 3D printing no longer have to learn how to do a bunch of filament tuning because companies like bl and prusa have made that essentially obsolete. At least in my opinion if a printer does not have a good set of finely tuned profiles it is pretty much automatically severely lacking. Obviously for those of us that know how to do the tuning it's not that big of a deal but again that's not the way the industry is going. More and more printers will be appliances and people will expect them to just work.
Great review, very in depth. I actually just got rid of my MK4. The cons you mentioned regarding the MMU3, were something I realized. It was a poor fit for what I wanted to do. Still a great printer, and I was really said to see it go (sold it on facebook marketplace). In its place I have the A1 Mini/AMS Lite and that fits my usage patterns a lot better
I have Prusa mini and i love it, but i want to upgrade to a new printer with multi material support. The big question is should i go with closed source Bambu-lab or with the open-source Prusa. I guess Prusa shipping will be free in black Friday, so if i take this into the account, Prusa mk4s+mmu3 should be in the same price as p1s+ams (black-friday price) with shipping costs. what would you do?
i like your honest opinion of 3d printing. I'm just kind of wondering on the bambu and the creality printers that might be leaking IP to outside company or countries due to possible wifi access or that might hae access to your IP. does bambu or creaty use their networks or systems for update or networks?
Awesome video.... thx for your detailed review... love it. Besides your criticism in the video, how does the MMU 3 works for you... how often does it fail?
was waiting for your review before placing my order, waiting for black friday.... Question, when you were printed CF filament, were you using a hardened nozzle? or is the standard nozzle ok for CF?
I wondered why this Prusa was lower on your web-list than the A1, so I went to Prusa's site to have a closer look. The MK4S has a smaller build volume than the A1, and it's SIGNIFICANTLY more expensive ($800 for the kit, $1100 for the built unit, not including the MMU3 for another $270). You could have a mini print farm of A1s for that kind of money. But you said the MK4 (and now the MK4S) is your go-to printer, not the A1, so I'm curious why that is? The high quality alpaca print from the MK4S was gorgeous, but if the A1 had the same performance with the same settings, why pay more for the Prusa, or even consider it? It would be interesting to see a side-by-side comparison of these two bed-slingers. And if you have a personal preference for the Prusa over the A1, it would be interesting to hear the reasons why. Thanks for doing these reviews.
The A1 and A1 Mini are #1 and #2 on my recommendation list in terms of value, they’re hard to beat. I also use Bambu Lab printers (I have all five models: X1C, P1S, P1P, A1, and A1 Mini), though not as often as Prusa printers. I have eight Prusas (3 MK3S+, 1 MK4, 2 MK4S, 1 Mini+, and 1 XL) and am accustomed to the Prusa workflow. It’s especially convenient since I’ve connected all of them to a single Prusa Connect account. I personally enjoy the Prusa printing experience, and over the years, I’ve accumulated various print surfaces and many replacement parts, making repairs and maintenance easier than with Bambu Lab machines. In my upcoming video, I plan to upgrade some of the MK3S+ to MK3.5S and 3.9S. The MK3S+ are solid machines, still more reliable than most budget Klipper machines, but their speed is a bit slow by today’s standards.
@AuroraTech Just subscribed! These videos have been a huge help. Question, I've had a basic budget very old printer. Looking to buy one printer to last a long time, not even really sure what I'll end up printing most of it. If you had to pick one, would you pick the mk4s or the Qidi Plus4? I love how easy and clean the MK4s prints but I feel like the Qidi plus 4 is a better value. Do you think the Qidi will reach mk4s reliability, quality, and ease of use as it matures over the next few months?
hola, despues de ver tu video hace algun tiempo me decante finalmente por comprar una Mk4S con el MMU3, pero aun no consigo que el blanco con el negro queden totalmente limpios, me podrias decir cuanto valor añadiste para que no se te contaminara la pieza la parte blanca con el negro, gracias
Prusa Mk printers are the Porsche 911 of printers. Same recipe since inception, but every generation they find a way to engineer it to compete with the best of its time. Higher cost but great quality and reliability. Great review!
min 33:18: the real reason prusa does not support cameras is that Stratasys has two valid patents for this feature: US8747097B2 and US8562324B2 „a video camera positioned to capture video of the build volume from a point of view”
The USPTO has done a poor job by approving too many unbelievable patents, allowing patent trolls to hinder the development of the entire industry. Shame falls not only on those patent-trolling companies, but also on the USPTO.
@AuroraTech, would you please do a review of Klipper vs Marlin? I would like to hear your thoughts on why you think that has more potential. Has Prusa maxed out the abilities of Marlin?
Smooth for PETG stick too much.. so much that it is possible that you damage PEI.. you can use gluestick on smooth but wha do this and then cleaning if you have textured sheet, from it print pop up itself when sheet cooldown
What comparing do you want? Of course that P1s is cheaper, but it has less quality, reliability and speed than Prusa MK4S. You need to pay for quality. For me this was the reason to buy MK4S, besides the fact that Bambu is China and its workers are children, who have not been paid well compare to Prusa`s product form Europe.
i think the MMU3 testing in the end is a little fudged. printing multiples of the same object is an option on any printer that has a large enough bed, that's not the focus of the testing here. the final waste was 85g for that model, something which is shown on screen but never pointed out in the video, and that's not counting the previous sub-par prints made while dialing it in, due to the default settings undershooting on the purge requirements. like they cannot be just 100% counted as waste, but it 1. makes things more difficult than just importing a multicolor model and pressing print, and 2. indicates a level of hostility by the manufacturer, they're clearly prioritizing the numbers they put up over ease of use and quality control on the default settings. on bambu's ams, this goes the other way, the default settings are playing it _way_ too safe and end up with excess filament waste, but at least that gets you a good print on the default settings. then if you want to, you can mess with the gcode, there are community plugins to cut down on waste by about 50-60%. but you don't have to, and that's the point. what i really don't get is, going by your numbers, the prusa would still be better in a fair and objective test. 85g on the optimized settings is still less than the 100-140g the bambu would create after optimization (which is a huge difference for a 53g model, and that's still with supports), prusa can be optimized in the gui of the slicer with no gcode modding needed, and there's also a valid argument to be made that this printer is more capable than an a1 mini with the ams because of its larger build plate, allowing more parallel printing. you don't need to fudge the numbers to get the prusa out on top, it's clearly the better enthusiast printer, with an asterisk that it's a little less user friendly (but that was already the case). so why go for a lopsided comparison?
I don't know if it's because it's silk but I have some filaments requiring 300-350mm of purge. I've had some crazy huge purge blocks. I do love my MMU3 + MK4 (soon to be S) printers.
Thanks for this review. You are linking to VoxelPLA, and they have the IKEA LACK enclosure that should work for the MK4S with MMU3 ... this would "Compact" it... Maybe they send you one to review it together with the MK4S that you have there now. Would be super interested to see how it holds up, maybe even as a "Blinged-out" version with the Voxel Bento Box and Light bar.
Hi Aurora, since you already have AMS systems from Anycubic and Bamboo, maybe it's possible for you to review something from Mosaic? Like Palette 2/3. Because it also a MMU, but it works in a totally different way: it splices the filament together, creating essentially a single line of the filament, and the settings even allow to use infill as a purge block. And indeed to hear your experience, and pros&cons would be extremely valuable.
@@JustinBuildsThings Can you elaborate on it a bit more? Maybe I don't know much about them, but I've bought Palette 2 for $120 (approx, it was in EUR) and I'm quite happy with my purchase, because: - it does filament change with 4 colors - it does some stuff autonomously (changing the filament if the spool(s) are empty, making random or not so random ones) - it could be interfaced with Klipper/Octoprint - it doesn't require hardware changes like filament cutter, and therefore it reduces down filament waste, because you don't need to purge what's left in between the cutter and nozzle tip Yes, now I have a SV08 and I'm actively thinking about the toolchanger, because I'd love to have supports from PLA for PETG parts ;)
@@felixyasnopolski8571 palette 2 and 2.5 were ok but are very dated and do not play nice on fast printers. Palette 3 was basicaly abandoned months after it was released and many users never had correctly functional units. It is literally abandonware and when asked about it they said all their engineers were working on array tough shit
Unrelated, what do you do with all of these prints? Are you just throwing them out? Keeping them? Giving them away? You make a ton of videos and I imagine you’ve got a ton of random prints all the time, so I’m just curious what you do with them.
Wouldn't it be better to replace the purge tower with some extra pieces which are within the weight of the purge tower? Let's suppose that I needed some other parts to print that were just functional ones and therefore I wouldn't really care about the overall color, it could be a nice optimization to have those parts printed instead of a huge useless purge tower I would just throw away otherwise.
I will keep the MK4 in its original state, as it is primarily used for printing high-temp filaments that don't require extra cooling. I’m satisfied with the slightly slower speed and good quality of the MK4. But I will upgrade some MK3 machines to 3.5S and 3.9S.
I definitely recommend to do MK4S upgrade. If you have MK4 it is very cheap and you printing will be on a totally different level. And the speed is really something.
That price though. I’m really impressed that Prusa have managed to keep that format relevant, I honestly believed they were on the road of no return a few months ago. But, a fully assembled machine is €1200 or €1500 with the MMU. I’m still not convinced that this would be a better purchase than either a Bambu P1S with AMS or a X1C with AMS for €1550. And if you factor in Qidi the decision is even harder.
Bambu?.. Bambu sells "lemons".. they works nicely, untill smth broke.. printers that you can't repair, even on answear from support you wait 2-3 weeks.. if they answear.. and you hear from them that this is your fault xD
While I appreciate seeing Prusa continuing to iterate on their design, I still see no reason to have a single-nozzle multi-color/-material printer...yes, the waste is much better than the Bambu system, but it's still a lot of filament down the drain. Great review as always!
Even less difference if your mk3(s(+)) started as a mk3 (old PSU and heatbed with soldered cables). However, if you use the mk3s+ to mk4s upgrade kit to upgrade one mk4 to mk4s and 1 mk3s+ to mk3.5 (some cable cramping required, good upgrade if you already have an updated extruder like the zOrbiter 2 with Revo hotend and are not affraid of compile a modified firmware), you get a complete Nextruder for your own projects for about 180€...
The K1 SE is essentially just the K1C without the enclosure. Since I’ve already reviewed the K1C, I may not want to use another review slot for the K1 SE. Given that the price difference between them isn’t significant, I’d still recommend choosing the K1C. However, I’ll be reviewing the K2 Plus in the coming weeks.
As much as I like the content there is a ton of stuff you are missing on the Bambu lab printer settings which can be forgiven as you mainly run default settings and probably have a ton of printers in studio. However you are doing your viewers a disservice not mentioning the simple options they can enable in a 30 seconds. Since April 2024 Bambu as adopted "long retract" option that can be enabled in settings, which pulls some of the filament up before cutting/purging. This can allow for 30-70% reduction in filament waste depending on color when combined with purge reductions. The prime tower is not only optional it can be shrunk down greatly with no color bleed or you can create a sacrificial part that acts as a prime tower. Even a simple 10-15 volume is just as good as the default 45 which greatly reduces waste. Basically if you care about purge there are many reduction options a available.
@@black99rt I did contact Prusa, and basically they say that the MMU is for cosmetic project, not structural. They limit in software the ability to use ASA and ABS. In short: I Love my MK4 and hate the MMU that is hardwired to it.
Why do you say: "other klipper maschines"? AFAIK MK4S is still based on Marlin, I'd really like if they move to Klipper... BTW, if you allow, acceleration counts more on small prints rather than big ones, yet what's truly makes a difference on small prints is jerk / corner velocity. Good work for an other nice review :)
I did mean MCU, like in the BambuLab A1/A1 Mini. There is no application processor; instead, they use three MCUs in the printer: one for the motion system and input shaper, one for the camera, and another inside the print head. That’s how they keep costs low while still supporting a low-frame-rate camera.
ARM A7 1.2GHz chip is an MPU, a Microprocessor that's powerful enough to install a Linux OS and run Python and Klipper. However, I was referring to using MCUs (Microcontrollers), like in the BambuLab A1/A1 Mini. Those machines only use three MCUs: ESP32S3, a 240MHz processor with 16MB PSRAM @ 80MHz SPC2168, a dual-core 200MHz processor with 80kB SRAM SPC1168 (printhead), a 200MHz processor with 64kB SRAM
If I go to Prusa website and add the printer and MMU to my cart, it is $1607.84 including shipping. A Bambu A1 with AMS is $489.99 plus tax. That is more than 3x as expensive - which can be tolerable for one printer but doesn't scale well as I often have three or more running at once.
Why multicolor models need to be trough coloured, as only two outer walls are needed for colour, inside could be white or other colour, even purege could be as infill😮
I would totally get a Prusa if it was a third or even half the price. Won't happen unfortunately. Tbh I don't think they're even marketed for someone like me. 🤷🏽♂️
I wonder if Prusa has maybe maxed out the abilities of that type of bedslinger. @AuroraTech would you please do a video comparing the different types of techniques and the pros and cons of each? Seems like CoreXY is the future, but would like to hear a methodological approach to why. Keep up the good work on these reviews! Thanks!
I don’t typically do a lot of multicolor printing but it’s extremely nice for having some generic filaments ready to print so I don’t need to manually change anything. I maybe do a bigger multicolor print 5% of the time and the other 95% is used for smaller flat color signs and switching colors between different jobs.
Ah that part fan cooling duct obstructing the nozzle is a pet peeve of mine,. If you are trying to babystep that perfect first layer / z offset, that can be a hassle My frustration with Prusa 3D printers is they seem overpriced and it takes months for them to really deliver on their performance goals via many firmware updates. Bambu Labs (and others) have really taken over their price point, with the P1S and others being up to half the cost of the $1099 Prusa Mk4S. Another ding - it's much smaller (250 x 210 x 220) where as the Bambu Lab machines offer 250 x 250 x 250 mm across all their products. Nice review!
Yeah, you are right. The price of Bambu is really better than Prusa, but you need to see the fact that Bambu is from China, so the reason why are their printers are so cheap is that they are made by children who are not paid well, but Prusa is made in Europe by real workers with good salary. So I think it is an ethical matter of fact, if you will support Prusa or Bambu.
@@AuroraTech I want to print a LIFESIZE R2-D2 droid and i have been looking at printers for 2 years!!!!!! they just keep getting better and better!!!! i cant make up my mind!!! i will wait for the bigger Bambu that we know is coming! Love your videos!!!!!!
@@AuroraTech I didn't say it was a lie, just hard to believe. Why do you use it more than your X1C for example? The work flow on the X1C is a lot more polished, so processing and monitoring a print job is a lot easier on the X1C and the print quality is on par with or better than the MK4S
@@AuroraTech on top of what I said previously your statement implies that the MK4S is a better option which is not. The MK4S is a lot more expensive just the printer itself, add to that the enclosure, MMU ect ect. The only reason to buy a Prusa printer today is just to support a non Chinese manufacturer because of the cheap labor and the communist party and all that. Other than that Bambu Lab printers run laps around anything Prusa has to offer. Prusa printers are good they are not as good as Bambu Lab printers. That's a fact that Prusa needs to come to terms with. I was a Prusa user for years. I recently got an X1C and my MK3S is seating on a shelf and on Offer up. I'm selling it or them because I have 2 for $250 each and no one is interested
@@AuroraTech don't get me wrong. I love your channel and think you guys do a terrific job reviewing printers BUT this review in specific is a little bit misleading in my opinion
Great video as always ! … I did return my 2 mk4s I bought them after the announcement and unfortunately the first layer had some problems and see that the new mk4s have that problem for some reason like you have on the orange trash that you did print and the purple sheet… to be honest prusa claim to have a perfect first layer but definitely is not as you can see it …
So, the MK4S is the printer Prusa *should* have released originally; instead, the upgraded version costs $100 lol I mean, insufficient part cooling should've been caught during testing and fixed, at least.
The MK4 performs well if you don't push the speed too far. Printing a 25-minute Benchy is still decent, but if you want a 14-minute one, you'll need to upgrade to a high-flow nozzle and improve cooling. Besides that, the $100 MK4 to MK4S kit also includes the new removable Wi-Fi and NFC module, along with some PC-CF, metal, and injection-molding parts.
@@radish6691 Completely different. Using an s or a z in "standardised" doesn't affect someone's comprehension or assessment of a product. Using different filament every printer can change our estimation of effectiveness.
Obviously people are still buying Prusa printers. In fact, Prusa has had to expand production to meet demand. The price is simply dictated by the fact that Prusa is a company that manufactures its printers in Europe and soon in the USA. 3D printers from China are assembled by workers paid minimum wage and the Chinese government heavily subsidises the industry. However, Prusa offers much better support than most Chinese companies and, what I personally find important, their printers are easy to repair and you don't have to rely on the manufacturer for spare parts.
Blind people that cant think for themselves and make poor financial choices go for prusa, thats why there is no webcam else the vfa would end up on youtube. Now the users ignore it😂
If you want reliability in a print farm yes. Mine have given thousands of hours of trouble free service. Bambu is cool to print trinkets and other little things but if you’re cranking out usable parts that are dimensionally accurate 100% of the time you need a prusa.
Are you sure you watched the video? If so, you should work on your perception skills. Did you realize how much faster this printer is with much less waste? Bambulab 15 h vs. Mk4s 8 h. I'm not saying it has no disadvantages, but so does a Bambulab. What you value more is up to you.
I keep hearing stories of mk3s printers with over 5k hours still kicking and then I hear the stories of the X1C machines breaking after 1-2k hours with hard to replace parts. I think both are awesome machines but it comes down to what you value.
Hands down @AuroraTech is the best reviewer of 3D printers on UA-cam. It's awesome to see the print comparisons with other printers and great feedback for improvements. Thank you!
I think I need to start using your fast profile for my prototyping. That's pretty amazing 😁
Very good test that reflects the strengths and weaknesses of the MK4S and the MMU3 well. I really noticed how much effort you put in, in contrast to the MK4 test.
The accuracy of the MK4S at top speed is impressive.
The use of the MMU3 could be smoother, you're right. But it is all the better in use.
I believed in the development of the MK4 right from the start and that's why I opted for it. You can rely on Prusa in this respect, just as you can rely on the delivery problems when they bring out something new.
And I'm sure Prusa isn't finished with the MK4 yet.
I have been patiently awaiting this before making a decision. I am pleased to see it has finally arrived. Well done. Thank you.
How are you feeling when they announced the CORE ONE, after spending for the mk4s?
Im actually a voron fan, but the thing i love about vorons in my print farm is you never need to buy a new printer, as new tech comes out you just incorporate it into the printer. Recently upgraded to the inductive probes and their fantastic. Prusa is similar, but with more support, Everyone bangs on about bamboo, but after about 1500 hours the rails need replacing and its like a 6.5 hour job. most people cant do. Prusa is a couple of screws. Same as voron. For a heavy print farm i think long run prusa or vorons makes a lot of sense. But more for a someone just printing for themselfs a bamboo makes sense. I think people with x1cs and p1ps with print farms are going to regret it when it comes time to replace all their parts.
I am on 2+ years (Kick starter backer)and 8k+ hours of printing and my carbon rods are fine.
So where are you getting this 1.5 year life span?
Keep up with general maintenance and any machine can go years without major part replacements.
@@No0o0o0o0o0 My Friend Bamboo are is serious trouble, their likely going to file bankrupt. Their locked down machines will have no support. Statysis are going to ahnialate them in court over their theft of pataints, their entire USA and Europe market will collapse overnight as they will be banned from selling there. Bamboo is going to go under. Open source vorons are the best bet. Ive got bamboo x1c and my vorons are faster more reliable and every part can be changed as the tech changes. Reminds me of games consoles. Yeah their great when they come out, but a pc will always beat them as the tech comes out so much faster and you can upgrade each component.. Pcs are always a step ahead.
@@No0o0o0o0o0maybe he prints carbon fiber fused filament?
There not going to replace the parts they will just chuck it out and buy a new because at that point the printer would be payed off. I have a feeling in a couple years landfills are just gonna be full of these printers
@@jaydenjegachandran557 No clue what he prints but from what I print I have no major issues.
Again proper maintenance wins the day.
What's notable is when Bambu first came out people stated nothing can be fixed and everything is glued or welded down and it's ewaste
1 yr later it was, you can't get parts, BL is "against right to repair" ..etc.
2 years later it's it can take you a long time to repair .
What I find interesting is that there have active wiki, videos and plenty of parts at reasonable prices and still the goal posts keep getting moved.🤔 I have ignored those folks as they have a preset agenda and their "preferred brand" is always better. When faced with factual information they pull the " but actually" and pull some data point from some rando source.
This is the first review I've ever watched that was posted by you. I must say, the detail which you provide, comparisons to other systems, and the overall experience you bring to your review is truly top notch. Thank you for your dedication and hard work as well as thoughtful content.
Thanks for this! And wow, watching that trash can be printed at 26 mm3/s in PETG is quitesomething. Impressive performance, that shows Prusa are definitely still in the game!
Thank you so much for reviewing the MK4S. As always, excellent professional work! Cheers :)
You can use "No Sparse layers (Experimental)" in the Multiple Extruders section of Print settings. That way the purge tower is only used on colour changes, not for every layer. It works really well although experimental. You just need to keep in mind the Z axis has to come down, so keep your model away from the purge tower (Y-axis)
Awesome review! I've tried finding information on the MMU3 to find waste information, and yet for some reason I struggled to find anything. People who had it only commented on how well it worked. I like this solution, and I hope the poop purges on other machines disappear. Great job!
Thank you for yet another great review video! I super appreciate your methodical and scientific approach to reviews. Your commitment to doing the same tests with the same models every time makes it so we can actually do an apples to apples comparison. Thank you!
Your reviews are the most thorough I've seen on YT. BY FAR. I continue to be impressed. Im glad this review came out as I'm looking to expand my mini-farm and i think this is the machine for it.
Also.. I spy with my little the K2 PLUS! Very curious to see your thoughts as a multiple K1 owner.👍👍
Yes, the K2 plus review will be in November.
@@AuroraTech Awesome!!
Awesome work. It is great to see Prusa back in the game. In that price range it competes with the P1S complete with an AMS. Needless to say it is a very difficult competition. I think Prusa is targeting the farmers market, though. Very likely he is not expecting this machine to beat bambu in sales to hobbyists. But for people with Prusa farms, maybe. He likely will offer discounts for bulk sales. It is also a very difficult competition because of the price of the bambu A1. You get more than 2 A1s for 1 MK4S. Unless you have real estate restrictions or you are worried about the electricity bill, it is a no brainer.
I bet that the Prusa has way less VFA than the P1.
@@eaman11 Not necessarily; a lot of variables can affect print quality, and bambu's X1 and P1 series are very well-tuned. Plus you're comparing a bed slinger to a core XY.
@@eaman11 Entirely possible. I am saying it is a difficult competition because the P1S is a very good printer, it is corexy (which to me doesn't matter, but some people hate bed slingers) and enclosed. For 849 USD it comes assembled and with the AMS. You would have to pay 799 USD for an unassembled MK4S with no MMU. I don't have a P1S. I have an A1 with the AMS lite. I like it very much. I have had many printers, some very expensive, the A1 is better than all of them. The MK4s is probably better than the A1, but the A1 is good enough for me.
@@NWGR P1 series is known for having a lot of VFA: google that. A1 does not have that, it's different.
@@marcellofialho677 A1 has less VFA than P1, that's because of the custom belts that has a flat part and the fact that belts are way shorter and have to pass through less pulleys.
Also the A1 has flow compensation.
Finally Prusa is up with the game! Competition definitely affects end users for betteer.
I bought one of the kits a couple weeks ago and it’s been super cool. I actually knew nothing about it when I got it. I just got it because we’d just got one in at work
Well done young lady, so glad to see you with Voxel support. I have been using Voxel for 6 or 9 months with outstanding results. I had ungraded my trusty old CR 10S Pro V1 with Direct Drive, Dual cooling fans, Y Axis Linear rails, Micro Swiss Hot End and lastly KLIPPER on a PI 4 board with 7 inch touch screen Oh Boy. With Voxel PLA this baby will print, PETG. well I have to slow it down a tad but the quality is just awesome for my Trains. Great review as usual, you do a marvelous job. Thank You, Thank your Mom & Dad for me. They have done a marvelous job. Take care, D
nice job integrating the footage from the mobile app. really appreciate all the effort you all put into these videos
You guys are the best, very thorough and fair 🙂 I saw the need for more cooling on the MK4 with some PLA filaments, mainly colored translucents, and I look forward to the S cooling upgrade. Showing the purging volume array for MMU3 printing was great. I found with black to white I had to get close to 300 on the setting to not have bleed over.
just wanted to say thank you for the review. I already purchased mine but i agree with all of what you said in your review.
i personally had been using the prusa mini as my go to printer but now i'm incorporating the mk4s. i like it... it just works and in my country, prusament is one of the only filaments for petg and other non-pla filaments that are available locally and have a print profile ready to go with both 0.4mm and 0.6mm nozzles. Everything just works....
i plan to get the MMU at some point and the filament poop from the bambulabs x1c with AMS was a turnoff for me. Also, i don't like cloud printing.
and just recently they started selling an upgrade kit for the mk4s to the core one.... looks very nice but very expensive.
The young lady continues to send all the other reviewers to school 👍 My experience with my fours MK4s has been excellent, I can count my failures on one hand with each printer having done 2500 hours of printing in 6 months.
"My experience with my fours MK4s has been excellent, I can count my failures on one hand with each printer having done 2500 hours of printing in 6 months."
It's Oct 2024 how have you completed 6 months when the printer was released in Aug of 2024? which is 2 months ago? 🤔
@@No0o0o0o0o0 “MK4’s” 😂
@@zerofox3d ah. Lol🤣
@@No0o0o0o0o04 printers = 5,760 max possible print hours in 60 days.
I may be the only one who's affected by it, but the speed at which you speak makes it challenging for me to keep up. And that's not good because you have a lot to teach me. Subbed and liked.
Hey @AuroraTech, thanks for another great review. Like many others, I'm wavering between an MK4S and an X1C, and in this video, you did a bunch of technical tests and even compared them to prints from X1C. When I look at the X1C review, I see you don't have them there (I suspect you have added them to your routine since you made that video) Is there a video I'm not finding with the in-depth technical review of X1C that this video does? I'm interested in creating functional parts -- dimensional accuracy and reliable prints are more important to me than speed or nice multi-color prints.
Great video! Very detailed and well explained as always!
I had an MMU2, and as you mentioned in one of your previous videos, it was really hard to get it working properly-I’d say it was quite unstable. I had to babysit it to complete almost every print.
After a month of use, in your opinion, do you think the MMU3 is worth it? Does it print from start to finish without requiring human intervention?
Thank you!
Mi Sovol04 IDEX imprimió el test de retracción (Honeycomb box) en 2 horas y 20 minutos con las velocidades bastante por debajo de las que tu has enseñado en el video. Imprimí dos cajitas de una vez con los dos extrusore.
La verdad es que mi impresora vuela y con una calidad excelente, la tengo calibrada perfectamente. La utilizo principalmente para imprimir modelos de arquitectura paramétrica hechos en Rhinoceros+Grasshopper.
Something that seemed to be completely missing from this review and seems to be missing from most 3D printing reviews is discussion of the software integration. One of the if not the main selling point of these prusa and BL printers is the fact that you don't have to do a bunch of profile tuning to get good prints. I feel like people who started in 3D printing years ago and are just used to having to do a bunch of profile tuning Don't really understand just how important that is. People who are just getting into 3D printing no longer have to learn how to do a bunch of filament tuning because companies like bl and prusa have made that essentially obsolete. At least in my opinion if a printer does not have a good set of finely tuned profiles it is pretty much automatically severely lacking. Obviously for those of us that know how to do the tuning it's not that big of a deal but again that's not the way the industry is going. More and more printers will be appliances and people will expect them to just work.
Great review, very in depth. I actually just got rid of my MK4. The cons you mentioned regarding the MMU3, were something I realized. It was a poor fit for what I wanted to do. Still a great printer, and I was really said to see it go (sold it on facebook marketplace). In its place I have the A1 Mini/AMS Lite and that fits my usage patterns a lot better
I have Prusa mini and i love it, but i want to upgrade to a new printer with multi material support. The big question is should i go with closed source Bambu-lab or with the open-source Prusa. I guess Prusa shipping will be free in black Friday, so if i take this into the account, Prusa mk4s+mmu3 should be in the same price as p1s+ams (black-friday price) with shipping costs. what would you do?
i like your honest opinion of 3d printing. I'm just kind of wondering on the bambu and the creality printers that might be leaking IP to outside company or countries due to possible wifi access or that might hae access to your IP. does bambu or creaty use their networks or systems for update or networks?
Amazing Review from our one & only review queen!!!!
Awesome video.... thx for your detailed review... love it. Besides your criticism in the video, how does the MMU 3 works for you... how often does it fail?
was waiting for your review before placing my order, waiting for black friday....
Question, when you were printed CF filament, were you using a hardened nozzle? or is the standard nozzle ok for CF?
I wondered why this Prusa was lower on your web-list than the A1, so I went to Prusa's site to have a closer look. The MK4S has a smaller build volume than the A1, and it's SIGNIFICANTLY more expensive ($800 for the kit, $1100 for the built unit, not including the MMU3 for another $270). You could have a mini print farm of A1s for that kind of money. But you said the MK4 (and now the MK4S) is your go-to printer, not the A1, so I'm curious why that is?
The high quality alpaca print from the MK4S was gorgeous, but if the A1 had the same performance with the same settings, why pay more for the Prusa, or even consider it? It would be interesting to see a side-by-side comparison of these two bed-slingers. And if you have a personal preference for the Prusa over the A1, it would be interesting to hear the reasons why. Thanks for doing these reviews.
The A1 and A1 Mini are #1 and #2 on my recommendation list in terms of value, they’re hard to beat. I also use Bambu Lab printers (I have all five models: X1C, P1S, P1P, A1, and A1 Mini), though not as often as Prusa printers.
I have eight Prusas (3 MK3S+, 1 MK4, 2 MK4S, 1 Mini+, and 1 XL) and am accustomed to the Prusa workflow. It’s especially convenient since I’ve connected all of them to a single Prusa Connect account. I personally enjoy the Prusa printing experience, and over the years, I’ve accumulated various print surfaces and many replacement parts, making repairs and maintenance easier than with Bambu Lab machines.
In my upcoming video, I plan to upgrade some of the MK3S+ to MK3.5S and 3.9S. The MK3S+ are solid machines, still more reliable than most budget Klipper machines, but their speed is a bit slow by today’s standards.
Love your no nonsense thorough videos. Comparisons could take up a bit more of the videos and/or making them clearer with graphics.
@AuroraTech Just subscribed! These videos have been a huge help. Question, I've had a basic budget very old printer. Looking to buy one printer to last a long time, not even really sure what I'll end up printing most of it. If you had to pick one, would you pick the mk4s or the Qidi Plus4? I love how easy and clean the MK4s prints but I feel like the Qidi plus 4 is a better value. Do you think the Qidi will reach mk4s reliability, quality, and ease of use as it matures over the next few months?
If you want a printer that lasts long and is fully upgradeable in the future, the MK4S is the one to choose.
hola, despues de ver tu video hace algun tiempo me decante finalmente por comprar una Mk4S con el MMU3, pero aun no consigo que el blanco con el negro queden totalmente limpios, me podrias decir cuanto valor añadiste para que no se te contaminara la pieza la parte blanca con el negro, gracias
Prusa Mk printers are the Porsche 911 of printers. Same recipe since inception, but every generation they find a way to engineer it to compete with the best of its time. Higher cost but great quality and reliability.
Great review!
excelent video - I really liked the honycomp comparision with other printers.
Comprehensive review as always, thanks
Thank your for the video. Excellent job as usual
min 33:18: the real reason prusa does not support cameras is that Stratasys has two valid patents for this feature: US8747097B2 and US8562324B2 „a video camera positioned to capture video of the build volume from a point of view”
The USPTO has done a poor job by approving too many unbelievable patents, allowing patent trolls to hinder the development of the entire industry. Shame falls not only on those patent-trolling companies, but also on the USPTO.
Hi, I've been looking for info about the layer fan size but can't find anything, could you please tell what size it is? Thanks!
Do you update the printer recommendation on your website? I feel like the P1S isn't that high on the list anymore, since other printers came out
No, the P1S and P1P were never on my list. I would have liked to see them at least come with the same touch screen as the A1.
@AuroraTech, would you please do a review of Klipper vs Marlin? I would like to hear your thoughts on why you think that has more potential. Has Prusa maxed out the abilities of Marlin?
Question, why use the textured build surface vs smooth for PETG?
Smooth for PETG stick too much.. so much that it is possible that you damage PEI.. you can use gluestick on smooth but wha do this and then cleaning if you have textured sheet, from it print pop up itself when sheet cooldown
how would you compare the mk4s to the p1s? Especially on the price
What comparing do you want? Of course that P1s is cheaper, but it has less quality, reliability and speed than Prusa MK4S. You need to pay for quality. For me this was the reason to buy MK4S, besides the fact that Bambu is China and its workers are children, who have not been paid well compare to Prusa`s product form Europe.
Do you have a list of best printers by category somewhere?
Love my mk4s, workhorse
why is that tower being printed when printing in multi-color ?
That's for the nozzle to clear the previous color. Even though the filament is retracted, some residue still remains.
i think the MMU3 testing in the end is a little fudged. printing multiples of the same object is an option on any printer that has a large enough bed, that's not the focus of the testing here. the final waste was 85g for that model, something which is shown on screen but never pointed out in the video, and that's not counting the previous sub-par prints made while dialing it in, due to the default settings undershooting on the purge requirements. like they cannot be just 100% counted as waste, but it 1. makes things more difficult than just importing a multicolor model and pressing print, and 2. indicates a level of hostility by the manufacturer, they're clearly prioritizing the numbers they put up over ease of use and quality control on the default settings.
on bambu's ams, this goes the other way, the default settings are playing it _way_ too safe and end up with excess filament waste, but at least that gets you a good print on the default settings. then if you want to, you can mess with the gcode, there are community plugins to cut down on waste by about 50-60%. but you don't have to, and that's the point.
what i really don't get is, going by your numbers, the prusa would still be better in a fair and objective test. 85g on the optimized settings is still less than the 100-140g the bambu would create after optimization (which is a huge difference for a 53g model, and that's still with supports), prusa can be optimized in the gui of the slicer with no gcode modding needed, and there's also a valid argument to be made that this printer is more capable than an a1 mini with the ams because of its larger build plate, allowing more parallel printing. you don't need to fudge the numbers to get the prusa out on top, it's clearly the better enthusiast printer, with an asterisk that it's a little less user friendly (but that was already the case). so why go for a lopsided comparison?
11:45 i think you mean slower speed doesn't affect small objects? acceleration plays a role the most in print speed
How about using an internal wipe vs the tower?
Great timing. I was just thinking of getting of these. Are they overpriced? Yeah, a bit. But they work very well, and are consistent.
why don't you invert the text on the cylinder side of the tolerance test STL so when the cylinder side is upwards the text reads correctly ?
very detailed review that is a honest assessment of this machine. Thank you.
When is the review for the K2 Plus and CFS coming out?
I don't know if it's because it's silk but I have some filaments requiring 300-350mm of purge. I've had some crazy huge purge blocks. I do love my MMU3 + MK4 (soon to be S) printers.
Thanks for this review. You are linking to VoxelPLA, and they have the IKEA LACK enclosure that should work for the MK4S with MMU3 ... this would "Compact" it... Maybe they send you one to review it together with the MK4S that you have there now. Would be super interested to see how it holds up, maybe even as a "Blinged-out" version with the Voxel Bento Box and Light bar.
Great review, thank you!
So is it you or Helios or someone else that does the back-end web/database stuff?
Another great vid, you sure put that one through it's paces!
Helios, I don't know much about database programming or PHP.
Hi Aurora, since you already have AMS systems from Anycubic and Bamboo, maybe it's possible for you to review something from Mosaic? Like Palette 2/3. Because it also a MMU, but it works in a totally different way: it splices the filament together, creating essentially a single line of the filament, and the settings even allow to use infill as a purge block.
And indeed to hear your experience, and pros&cons would be extremely valuable.
the palette stuff is basically abandonware while they work on their array industrial cluster system, and hasnt been relevant in years
@@JustinBuildsThings Can you elaborate on it a bit more? Maybe I don't know much about them, but I've bought Palette 2 for $120 (approx, it was in EUR) and I'm quite happy with my purchase, because:
- it does filament change with 4 colors
- it does some stuff autonomously (changing the filament if the spool(s) are empty, making random or not so random ones)
- it could be interfaced with Klipper/Octoprint
- it doesn't require hardware changes like filament cutter, and therefore it reduces down filament waste, because you don't need to purge what's left in between the cutter and nozzle tip
Yes, now I have a SV08 and I'm actively thinking about the toolchanger, because I'd love to have supports from PLA for PETG parts ;)
@@felixyasnopolski8571 palette 2 and 2.5 were ok but are very dated and do not play nice on fast printers. Palette 3 was basicaly abandoned months after it was released and many users never had correctly functional units. It is literally abandonware and when asked about it they said all their engineers were working on array tough shit
Thanks, great job on this review! :)
Unrelated, what do you do with all of these prints? Are you just throwing them out? Keeping them? Giving them away? You make a ton of videos and I imagine you’ve got a ton of random prints all the time, so I’m just curious what you do with them.
This multi color accepts TPU?
No, I don't think any multi-filament system with a long Bowden tube can handle TPU well.
@@AuroraTech so today the only capable multi color/filament is the Prusa XL?
Wouldn't it be better to replace the purge tower with some extra pieces which are within the weight of the purge tower? Let's suppose that I needed some other parts to print that were just functional ones and therefore I wouldn't really care about the overall color, it could be a nice optimization to have those parts printed instead of a huge useless purge tower I would just throw away otherwise.
Would you consider upgrading your MK4 with the MK4S upgrade kit? That would make another great video.
I will keep the MK4 in its original state, as it is primarily used for printing high-temp filaments that don't require extra cooling. I’m satisfied with the slightly slower speed and good quality of the MK4. But I will upgrade some MK3 machines to 3.5S and 3.9S.
I definitely recommend to do MK4S upgrade. If you have MK4 it is very cheap and you printing will be on a totally different level. And the speed is really something.
That price though. I’m really impressed that Prusa have managed to keep that format relevant, I honestly believed they were on the road of no return a few months ago. But, a fully assembled machine is €1200 or €1500 with the MMU. I’m still not convinced that this would be a better purchase than either a Bambu P1S with AMS or a X1C with AMS for €1550. And if you factor in Qidi the decision is even harder.
Bambu?.. Bambu sells "lemons".. they works nicely, untill smth broke.. printers that you can't repair, even on answear from support you wait 2-3 weeks.. if they answear.. and you hear from them that this is your fault xD
Thank you well done as usual. 👍👍👍
While I appreciate seeing Prusa continuing to iterate on their design, I still see no reason to have a single-nozzle multi-color/-material printer...yes, the waste is much better than the Bambu system, but it's still a lot of filament down the drain.
Great review as always!
Wow I didn't know you can buy the mmu3 fully assembled so they should too
Would be nice to have a MK4S+ with a larger print volume
where did you get the profile?
The super-fast profile is imported from the preloaded 14-minute Benchy G-code file on the USB drive.
There is also an Hardwareupgrade option from MK3s to MK4s - but it is just about 250$ cheaper than a MK4s Kit.
Even less difference if your mk3(s(+)) started as a mk3 (old PSU and heatbed with soldered cables).
However, if you use the mk3s+ to mk4s upgrade kit to upgrade one mk4 to mk4s and 1 mk3s+ to mk3.5 (some cable cramping required, good upgrade if you already have an updated extruder like the zOrbiter 2 with Revo hotend and are not affraid of compile a modified firmware), you get a complete Nextruder for your own projects for about 180€...
Hate how hard is to get a bambu or prusa in Mexico resellers made them unaffordable vs any creality or elegoo that you can get from Amazon
Bambu 💪
Where is the Creality K1 SE
The K1 SE is essentially just the K1C without the enclosure. Since I’ve already reviewed the K1C, I may not want to use another review slot for the K1 SE. Given that the price difference between them isn’t significant, I’d still recommend choosing the K1C. However, I’ll be reviewing the K2 Plus in the coming weeks.
As much as I like the content there is a ton of stuff you are missing on the Bambu lab printer settings which can be forgiven as you mainly run default settings and probably have a ton of printers in studio. However you are doing your viewers a disservice not mentioning the simple options they can enable in a 30 seconds.
Since April 2024 Bambu as adopted "long retract" option that can be enabled in settings, which pulls some of the filament up before cutting/purging. This can allow for 30-70% reduction in filament waste depending on color when combined with purge reductions.
The prime tower is not only optional it can be shrunk down greatly with no color bleed or you can create a sacrificial part that acts as a prime tower. Even a simple 10-15 volume is just as good as the default 45 which greatly reduces waste.
Basically if you care about purge there are many reduction options a available.
additionally the default purge volumes are extremely conservative in my experience
CON: with MMU3, Prusa forbid you from using ABS or ASA filament. Basically anything else than PLA or PETG
What is the reason for this ?
@@black99rt I did contact Prusa, and basically they say that the MMU is for cosmetic project, not structural. They limit in software the ability to use ASA and ABS. In short: I Love my MK4 and hate the MMU that is hardwired to it.
@@bce.gatien so they don't trust their segment adhesion, or at least don't want their users to. I guess.
@@black99rt Have I known, I would not have buy the MMU3. It is a bummer that in a review of this quality, Aurora Tech did not mention this limitation.
Great review 😄
Deleted my other comment as the video answered my question (need to stop commenting before finishing videos lol)
Why do you say: "other klipper maschines"?
AFAIK MK4S is still based on Marlin, I'd really like if they move to Klipper...
BTW, if you allow, acceleration counts more on small prints rather than big ones, yet what's truly makes a difference on small prints is jerk / corner velocity.
Good work for an other nice review :)
That model looks like it as been designed in a way that let's you do that on over hangs
I think for camera you will need MPU (Microprocessor Unit) with own RAM and OS in smartphones or SBCs. Not MCU.
I did mean MCU, like in the BambuLab A1/A1 Mini. There is no application processor; instead, they use three MCUs in the printer: one for the motion system and input shaper, one for the camera, and another inside the print head. That’s how they keep costs low while still supporting a low-frame-rate camera.
@@AuroraTech Quad ARM A7 1.2 GHz is MPU. Not MCU
ARM A7 1.2GHz chip is an MPU, a Microprocessor that's powerful enough to install a Linux OS and run Python and Klipper. However, I was referring to using MCUs (Microcontrollers), like in the BambuLab A1/A1 Mini. Those machines only use three MCUs:
ESP32S3, a 240MHz processor with 16MB PSRAM @ 80MHz
SPC2168, a dual-core 200MHz processor with 80kB SRAM
SPC1168 (printhead), a 200MHz processor with 64kB SRAM
If I go to Prusa website and add the printer and MMU to my cart, it is $1607.84 including shipping. A Bambu A1 with AMS is $489.99 plus tax. That is more than 3x as expensive - which can be tolerable for one printer but doesn't scale well as I often have three or more running at once.
Have the A1and I am looking good forward to replace it with a prusa. This is not my first bambu. Done with toy looking tools
Why multicolor models need to be trough coloured, as only two outer walls are needed for colour, inside could be white or other colour, even purege could be as infill😮
i like your contnet
Creality K2 Plus for me.
Omg you’re finally saying “mark” instead of “emm kay”! Learning has been had! Woo! 🎉🤩
chill.
I just say MK or Mark randomly :)
I would totally get a Prusa if it was a third or even half the price. Won't happen unfortunately. Tbh I don't think they're even marketed for someone like me. 🤷🏽♂️
I wonder if Prusa has maybe maxed out the abilities of that type of bedslinger. @AuroraTech would you please do a video comparing the different types of techniques and the pros and cons of each? Seems like CoreXY is the future, but would like to hear a methodological approach to why. Keep up the good work on these reviews! Thanks!
I'm really not a fan of MMU units. Too much waste. What's wrong with a little paint?
I don’t typically do a lot of multicolor printing but it’s extremely nice for having some generic filaments ready to print so I don’t need to manually change anything. I maybe do a bigger multicolor print 5% of the time and the other 95% is used for smaller flat color signs and switching colors between different jobs.
Ah that part fan cooling duct obstructing the nozzle is a pet peeve of mine,. If you are trying to babystep that perfect first layer / z offset, that can be a hassle My frustration with Prusa 3D printers is they seem overpriced and it takes months for them to really deliver on their performance goals via many firmware updates. Bambu Labs (and others) have really taken over their price point, with the P1S and others being up to half the cost of the $1099 Prusa Mk4S. Another ding - it's much smaller (250 x 210 x 220) where as the Bambu Lab machines offer 250 x 250 x 250 mm across all their products. Nice review!
Just look / film it from behind.
Yeah, you are right. The price of Bambu is really better than Prusa, but you need to see the fact that Bambu is from China, so the reason why are their printers are so cheap is that they are made by children who are not paid well, but Prusa is made in Europe by real workers with good salary. So I think it is an ethical matter of fact, if you will support Prusa or Bambu.
We know you know something about the new bambu printer!!!! what are you hiding back there in that garage!!! ?????????
No, they haven't disclosed any information yet.
@@AuroraTech what is your guess as to the bed size????? thats all we care about!!!
I think they should release a larger format, around 350mm³, similar to the K2 PLUS, which I will review in November.
@@AuroraTech I want to print a LIFESIZE R2-D2 droid and i have been looking at printers for 2 years!!!!!! they just keep getting better and better!!!! i cant make up my mind!!! i will wait for the bigger Bambu that we know is coming! Love your videos!!!!!!
I find it hard to believe the opening statement that's is her most used printer but i guess it could be true
Yes, that's true. I didn't make that statement about any other machines.
@@AuroraTech I didn't say it was a lie, just hard to believe. Why do you use it more than your X1C for example? The work flow on the X1C is a lot more polished, so processing and monitoring a print job is a lot easier on the X1C and the print quality is on par with or better than the MK4S
@@AuroraTech on top of what I said previously your statement implies that the MK4S is a better option which is not. The MK4S is a lot more expensive just the printer itself, add to that the enclosure, MMU ect ect. The only reason to buy a Prusa printer today is just to support a non Chinese manufacturer because of the cheap labor and the communist party and all that. Other than that Bambu Lab printers run laps around anything Prusa has to offer. Prusa printers are good they are not as good as Bambu Lab printers. That's a fact that Prusa needs to come to terms with. I was a Prusa user for years. I recently got an X1C and my MK3S is seating on a shelf and on Offer up. I'm selling it or them because I have 2 for $250 each and no one is interested
@@AuroraTech don't get me wrong. I love your channel and think you guys do a terrific job reviewing printers BUT this review in specific is a little bit misleading in my opinion
Great video as always ! … I did return my 2 mk4s I bought them after the announcement and unfortunately the first layer had some problems and see that the new mk4s have that problem for some reason like you have on the orange trash that you did print and the purple sheet… to be honest prusa claim to have a perfect first layer but definitely is not as you can see it …
I think you had a bad luck, because I have a few MK4S and I did not have any problem with the first layer... For me, it works perfectly.
I use the Hula kit and the Bento box from Voxel on my X1C and I couldn’t be happier with them
How you been doing
So, the MK4S is the printer Prusa *should* have released originally; instead, the upgraded version costs $100 lol I mean, insufficient part cooling should've been caught during testing and fixed, at least.
The MK4 performs well if you don't push the speed too far. Printing a 25-minute Benchy is still decent, but if you want a 14-minute one, you'll need to upgrade to a high-flow nozzle and improve cooling. Besides that, the $100 MK4 to MK4S kit also includes the new removable Wi-Fi and NFC module, along with some PC-CF, metal, and injection-molding parts.
They needed to release it because of the competition and also they are used to doing that, releasing unfinished products
Still an Anet A8 design, looks so dated now
U need to standarize ur materials really, that galaxy filament hides defects
That's a good idea actually.
You mean like how spelling is standardized?
@@radish6691 Completely different. Using an s or a z in "standardised" doesn't affect someone's comprehension or assessment of a product. Using different filament every printer can change our estimation of effectiveness.
Do people still buy Prusa Printers? They are horribly expensive and way behind in print speed and build volume.
Obviously people are still buying Prusa printers. In fact, Prusa has had to expand production to meet demand.
The price is simply dictated by the fact that Prusa is a company that manufactures its printers in Europe and soon in the USA. 3D printers from China are assembled by workers paid minimum wage and the Chinese government heavily subsidises the industry. However, Prusa offers much better support than most Chinese companies and, what I personally find important, their printers are easy to repair and you don't have to rely on the manufacturer for spare parts.
Blind people that cant think for themselves and make poor financial choices go for prusa, thats why there is no webcam else the vfa would end up on youtube. Now the users ignore it😂
Same my thoughts 😁 X1c have an enclosure , faster , AMS , all materials can work with , camera , LiDAR Scanner and more for less
If you want reliability in a print farm yes. Mine have given thousands of hours of trouble free service. Bambu is cool to print trinkets and other little things but if you’re cranking out usable parts that are dimensionally accurate 100% of the time you need a prusa.
Are you sure you watched the video? If so, you should work on your perception skills. Did you realize how much faster this printer is with much less waste? Bambulab 15 h vs. Mk4s 8 h.
I'm not saying it has no disadvantages, but so does a Bambulab.
What you value more is up to you.
This printer is obsolete no matter what. Of course, all Prusa fanboys will be arguing under this message ;)
There's nothing to argue about. If you write that, then it simply has to be true...💯
I keep hearing stories of mk3s printers with over 5k hours still kicking and then I hear the stories of the X1C machines breaking after 1-2k hours with hard to replace parts. I think both are awesome machines but it comes down to what you value.
@@Alex_M_Creations yep, typical prusa mantra :)
@@alexey_sychev I’m a Creality person btw, and I have friends with Bambu machines so I’m very familiar with them ;)