Ender 3 V3 KE vs Neptune 4 FULL COMPARISON
Вставка
- Опубліковано 26 вер 2024
- Ran Tests in PLA, PETG, TPU and ABS against the Ender 3 V3 KE and the Neptune 4.
Found some interesting Results during Testing.
Model Links:
Juggernaut by Eastman-
www.printables...
Predator Pliers:
www.printables...
Bambu TPU Feet:
www.printables...
Tolerance Test:
#elegoo
#creality3d
#3dprinting
#versus
#pla
#filament
#enclosures
#abs #petg #tpu
#spritekit
#creality
#ender3v3ke
#ender3pro
#neptune4plus
#neptune4max
4 thumbs up. this is what yo call an unbiased comparison. Filament, environment, man you killed it with this video... this video should have a part 2 with the slicer settings for each test...... i will save and share this video.. i have the Ke by the way...
Appreciate it. We prefer honesty in a review. Everyday use, not staged and/or predetermined outcomes. We are seeing things and reacting to things just as we see them for the first time. A few family friendly edits have to be made here and there but we always find it hard to trust alot of SPONSORED reviews. Nobody is paying me to reviews it's a passion of mine. Building the 3d community is my ultimate goal. Again thanks for the kind word. I will keep the slicer settings video in mind. I sadly have been neglecting the KE but letting it sit in it's enclosure for weeks at a time without printing. Hard to keep modifying and tuning 26 different printers. Throw a print on it 3 days ago just because it had a H1H build plate and the color I needed already loaded in it from weeks before. Was too lazy to get up and switch it to the Q1 Pro we are working on a review of.
If your interested in KE content we have a linear rail and flowtech install coming up in the next few weeks. Already done on the SE. Going go try a Different design on the KE.
@@3DandTeePrinting excellent i had made some mods, or addons to my KE.. moved the spool to the side, added a camera mount, minor stuff, but is working.. but man, this is a nice video, you should work on the slicer video, not so many people have the KE yet and becuase of the lack of info having a good tutorial about the slicer settings for the different filament will get you a lot of views.... keep it tup, i will subscribe to your channel..
The neptune 4 may be limited by a max flow rate setting or minimum layer time. For tolerance test you need to make sure you are not underextruding.
I chose the Neptune 4 Pro for $249 from Elegoo's website and shipped from the USA. Used a cat 5 cable to connect to a router and it is great. It is a lot louder but much faster than the Neptune 3 Pro. I had an Ender 3 and it was great to learn on and make modifications. I am not a fan of Elegoo's propietary nozzle on the 4's but I do like the printer. I use Elegoo's new Cura 5.6 slicer or Prusia slicer. I have not had great luck with Orca for some reason.
I am thinking about hooking it to the BTT Pad 7 I got for Christmas for network printing. I am not trying to run a cat 5 cable 35 feet to the rotor. I only have 3 printers (Hopefully soon to be 2) that still need network setup out of 24. Orcaslicer I did have issues with retractions on the preset profile. It was set to 5mm. I changed it to 2 and haven’t had any issues since. So I get it might be a little tricky with Orcaslicer. I too HATE that its a proprietary nozzles on the Plus and the Max. Just found some aftermarket .6mm nozzles on Amazon I want to give a try. I started with the ORIGINAL Ender 3 Neo (not a V2) still got it (HEAVILY MODDED and still going). I started on Cura but went to Prusa then Bambu. Now been using Orca since June 2023.
Get a wireless wifi extender and BOOM its wirelessly connected@@3DandTeePrinting
*Nice comparison.* Just a note, I have several Ender 3s, a Flashforge Guider, and most recently a *Neptune 4 plus.* I've been running the plus (on PLA+) with Cura 5.6.0 for about 2 months pretty well 24/7 and short of cleaning the bed with Isopropyl alcohol etc from time to time, have not needed to adjust anything except getting the latest BIOs! Will be changing the nozzle soon. Bed adhesion is nearly always good. Any fails are usually my fault, from greasy fingers or getting lazy and not wiping down the build plate properly. For its speed, price and build size *(320 x 320 x 385 mm)* it was a very good buy.
_Happy printing._
I love my launch version N4 PLUS too (after the firmware update, service pack install, ribbon cable replaced, and bed frame realignment). It has hit all the sweet spots. Speed, size, good bed and layer adhesion, reliability, and cooling (overkill on the cooling).
I seriously do love it. All the errors with it after the fixes are my own as well. The FINGERPRINTS Oh I am big time guilty of that. Especially with these newer PEO/PEY sheets add on options. Just ordered a H1H (Holographic) build sheet for it. I have it on my other printer but was having problems finding a 330×330mm (sheet size not build size). Found one for $62 on Amazon. Pricey but I paid $67 for a 400x400 on my Kobra Max last years.
@@3DandTeePrintingNot sure when the launch version came out, but I got mine over Christmas. The only 'issue(s)' were that it lost its z offset value on power off, and bumping infill as it got higher. After the firmware update the z offset thing seems to be solved. And turning off z hop resolved the 'clipping', which was more of a nuisance than a show stopper. *Thanks for to info on the sheet.* I'm also keeping my eyes open for third party head replacements, because some of my clients like glow in the dark models. and the silicon phosphorous wears them out quickly. On the Enders, I didn't mind because the replacements were so cheap, and I don't usually use such abrasive filaments.
_Happy printing, from Australia._
@@martinrayner6466 Launch was the Preorder versions. Ordered in September but not received till October due to delays with the PLUS and MAX at launch.
Great video, definitely a well made comparison. I've after an upgrade from my older Ender 3 Pro and I'm price range is looking between these 2 and still can't decide 😆
It's a tough choice. Both machines are offering really good quality for the money.
getting my neptune 4 today, thanks for the video, i subbed will definitely be watching more videos
@hereforthehash Thanks for subscribing. Hope you enjoy your Neptune 4.
Nice video thank you my friend
Hoping to see some CR-10 SE vs the KE. Wondering which is better.
Great video btw !
Oh you might have Changed my mind on CREALITY vs CREALITY: CR10-SE vs Slightly Modded Ender 3 S1. Hmm that's a MAYBE for next time but I will poll the community again next week on KE vs ???. This week I am Testing the Flashforge 5M vs K1 vs P1P. There seems to be some "debates" in the recent comment sections about if it's a K1 Clone or P1P Clone. I know the answer already but you'll have to tune in to see for yourself. The Subcribers want a clear answer. Lol.
Make sure you go vote for which model to print FIRST in ABS for the Creality New Gen Challenge if you haven't already. It's available to vote for y by subscribers on the community page. 2 days of voting left. Somehow a BENCHY is in 2nd place right Now. SMDH!
Just equip KE with ADXL234 G-sensor and it will go smooth as glass on the walls. The stability of this machine is really poor, but you can stiffen the frame yourself if it bothers you - simple modifications are available.
If someone strictly compares the quality of prints, they must work at the same speed. It is obvious that the faster the printing, the lower the quality. Hyper filament at maximum speed may help a bit.
I have had KE for over half a year (+nebula +sensor) and so far it has not disappointed me in any respect. It is fast, relatively quiet and when using PLA+ you can easily print at speeds of 300mm/s without any worries.
The KE is a good Machine. There is no doubts about that. The gantry is still weak but I have braced my SE and installed linear rails. I plan to do the same to the KE. Saw a huge difference after I stabilized the SE. I have gotten the KE up to about 374mm/s before the extruder couldn't keep up. But who is really printing over 300mm/s anyway. The Neptune only got to 325mm/s. Yes the KE is faster overall IF you take off the auto calibration process at the start of the print
I can recommend BOTH. Tinkering wise I would highly recommend the KE because the community is much larger for upgrades and mods.
That was a great review I just bought a Neptune 3 Pro and had to send it back after a week I like what I saw what the Neptune 4 did but I am a little concerned about the tech support the Neptune 3 Pro worked well out of the box for the first dozen prints using PLA after that it went downhill The head clogged and the prints did not get passed the first half hour before coming off the bed even with a glue stick
Glad you enjoyed it. The N4 is a good machine. I never used the N3's. I was TRYING to get a N3MAX for months in 2023 hut they were always out of stock. Then the N4 came out. I grabbed one. Few months later the N4PLUS ad MAX came out. Grabbed a Plus. Still Comtemplating if I NEED or just WANT the N4MAX. Too many printers to buy and review this year to be wasting money on a 8 month old printer I already have 2 variants of. Or maybe I will find a Good excuse to get one. Lol
Is the V3 KE much quieter than the OG Ender 3 pro? looking to upgrade
Hello, good video, tell me, is there much difference between the Neptune 4 and the Neptune pro??? And in general terms, which do you think is better in terms of printing and speed between the ender 3v3ke or the neptune 4? Your opinion will be very important for my next purchase.
@KAAPY The 4 Pro has a segmented heated bed which has 2 heating areas, metal guide wheels and 2 cooling fans on the print head instead of 1. The KE is a little bit faster but less stable than the N4. QUALITY??? It all comes down to YOU tuning it in for both. Full Disclosure I gave my Neptune 4 to a friend of mine to his own printing journey. I still have the KE and it does have a Micrsensor broken on Y axis (no idea how it happened but it's an easy swap out replacement).
Try the scarf seams in Orcaslicer 2.0 which might stop the katana blades from sticking.
This was before scarf seams existed in Orca. I will give it a try on the Katana next time. It has worked nicely on other pieces.
I chose the the KE. If you print and connect Z gantry supports, the KE's weakness should be sorted.
Yep. Gantry Supports definitely help to stabilize the wobble.
i tried OrcaSlicer with my Neptune 4 Pro and speed settings were not working at all. Prints were also not looking good. Thats why i use Cura 5.5 with different profiles and its working great....
As I always say "Hey whatever works for you......Works for you." 🤣
Could you share a link to the enclosure you're using? I haven't found one that fits the height of the KE. Yours seems to be the perfect height.
Thank you
It's still a little LOW but I plan on removing the spool holder from the top and side mounting it like I did with my SE. I do NOT recommend running it with the spool top mounted due to the weak Gantry.
YOOPAI 3D Printer Enclosure a.co/d/6TE7igv
KE every time, just taking the spool off the top is a simple fix for the gantry movement. And just get the cheap as chips G-Sensor and do the input shaping.
@jeffwhite9001 100% Agree with you. Really improves quality of the KE.
Great video! I have a few Neptune 4 Pros and if you add an accelerometer to them and a usb wifi adapter, they are even more impressive machines!
Thanks. I have "PLANS" for both the KE and N4. They WILL be fully unleashed machines when I am done. 😈 🤣 Just got to do one more MAJOR head to head of the 3 New Enders this weekend.
@@3DandTeePrintingCant wait to see "plans" in action! Thank you for the great video.
@@Alen.88 Neptune 4 Mods currently underway but may take some time. Still trying to find or have someone design me some mounting brackets for some "Things" to fit correctly. LOL. I will keep everyone posted once I get more accomplished with it first.
@@3DandTeePrintingIm waiting for KE mods :D I ordered KE few days ago, and cant wait until arrives. This will be my first printer and I hope that I didn't decide wrong when buying KE.
@@Alen.88 You did well with the KE. Only a few mods and it will be an awesome machine for you.
Both pretty great printers in their own right, i ended up going with the neptune 4 pro version since im already familiar with the neptune previous version. Plus got a good deal on it at Amazon with prime shipping lol couldn't pass it up lol, still very great comparison you did, well done.
Thank you. How are you liking the Pro version?
Hi i need your advice so i recently got an enclosure for my v3 se and the filament keeps getting stuck in the extruder motor any tips
PLA and PETG don't like a hot environment like an enclosured chamber. If your printing in non engineering materials, you want to leave the door open or ajar so you get fresh air circulation. Abs, Nylons.... Close it up. They like it hot.
@@3DandTeePrinting yes sir thanks
@Productreviewing538 if your
Printing PC or NYLONS you need to make sure you switched the hotend to a 300c one. If you try to run it with the Stock setup like I did originally you will start to break down the PTFE tube INSIDE the heatbreak. You CAN run LOW temp ABS filament (Under 255c) on Stock setting but once you get over 255c you risk messing up the PTFE tubing. It's only rated for 260c in stock format. Your talking about a 20 minute and $35-40 upgrade and your good to print up to 300c materials AND carbon Fiber.
Heatsink
a.co/d/2t0rWQV
HARDENED TIPPED 300c Hotend (can save some money but lose abrasion resistance with a KE hotend)
a.co/d/8442DoR
@@3DandTeePrinting thank you
Great video!
The Flashforge Adventurer 5m and Ender 3 V3 KE are both $250 shipped right now on ebay with coupon. Which do you recommend? I currently own an SE.
OH that's a tough call. The KE is a Nice machine and bigger build volume but the 5m is more stable. Both are doing CLOSE to the same speed (5m slightly faster). They both have upgrade options. Honestly if I had to pick again. The KE but the 5M you can't really go wrong there either. KE will have more community support long term and more upgradeable plus cheaper replacement parts.
Thanks for the quick reply man! I will snag the KE then and do some of these mods. @@3DandTeePrinting
Does the Neptune have problems with XY alignment?
Not that I experienced on the N4. I did have that issue with a N4Plus but it was firmware related.
Thanks for the comparison!
Please tell me which printer was used to print the wobbly vase?
It was the KE. It needs the gantry supported and the spool holder relocated from the gantry. When you do that it takes out the vibrations tranfering into the Prints. Both are really good printers for the price.
Thumbs up , for the Juggernaut!
Kane Marco all day.
the calibration proces can be switched off for the ke it is just automatticaly on
Agreed. Both these printers are pretty evenly matched if you take off the calibration settings.
Hello, where can i get that enclosure for the Ender v3 KE? Been struggling to find one tall enough for it
The enclosure I have is also too short by an inch or two. I recommend removing the spool holder off the top of the gantry. Helps reduce wobble and allows the printer and side spool to fit in most enclosures.
Great video
Glad you enjoyed it
Could you possibly give me some slicer settings for my se to get my prints good because they have been really low quality lately
Orcaslicer has a good base profile to start with. My profiles are nwhwre close to stock with all ths mods I have on it. Have you tried theirs yet.
you know that the ke doesnt have to calibrate before every print right? you can select and deselect that and just use the last bed mesh saved
Yes I am aware. I am also running it rooted so I could have also altered the start g-code as well. But I was running them unaltered, as they are setup, no changes (except the SE).
Hi great vid, quick question would you recommend to get se or ke or Neptune 4 pro? Thanks
Picking a printer is always hard because each individual will have specific needs or wants for a printer. My recommendation between the 3 has always been...
Neptune 4's were rushed out on the backs of the success with the Neptune 3's but Can be good machines just careful you get a later produced one and not a used or launch version.
The SE is great for Modifying and Learning through upgrading.
The KE is the Ender 3 with MOST of the capabilities people are looking for but, like the SE, the KE's gantry will need to be stabilized. It was been known to be very wobbly at speeds.
But ultimately the choice is yours to make.
@@3DandTeePrinting my main goal is quality and accuracy of the prints and I don't mind upgrading.
@jagmeetsinghkalsi7760 if you don't mind the Tinker than KE if you can swing it, to reduce cost of upgrades VS the SE.
Stabilize the Gantry
Relocate the spool holder off the top.
Add the Nebula Camera or IP camera
Get a cheap enclosure for ABS/ASA/PC printing.
You should have everything you will need to print everything the printer is capable of after that.
Check the bed isn't skewed (add shims if needed)
Hope that helps.
@@3DandTeePrinting thanks man that definitely helps alot 🙏
Thank you for this video, I’ve had the Ke for 3 weeks now, not use to using a direct drive,yesterday I printed 3 projects, all small, then the printer stopped pushing filament through the extruder and as I looked the extruder it was covered in melted filament,at first I thought the nozzle broke off,but it was the silicone wrap that fits over the nozzle, it came off as I was trying to get all that filament that was melted over the wires into the heat block. I got most of the filament off by heating up the hot end to 220, and using a pair of tweezers heated to melt the filament around areas that didn’t get hot. I’m not sure how the silicone wrap goes back over the the hotend😢,does it go over the wires or not….im not sure if this happened bc I changed the filament from hyper pla to silk pla and the Gcodes were set for hyper pla. Any thoughts anyone? I’m afraid to start it back up, I also notice the metal throat that goes through the heat block was unscrewed when I used the metal rod to push out melted filament after this massive melted filament over the extruder happened. I don’t know enough to know if that’s the reason this malfunction happened,if I should send it back which is only 1 week window left to do so…or should I just change the Gcode filament as I should have when I changed out the filament and totally didn’t think about it at the time. I went from using a Monoprice V2 mini to this printer so I’m definitely still learning this machine and I went between getting the ke or the Neptune 4. I completely rebuilt the monoprice so I’m familiar with how it works, sorry about expressing some of the terms to describe what has occurred I’m sure you can decipher what I’m describing happened. Any thoughts from anyone would be helpful.
If the Heatbreak or nozzle wasn't tight from the factory you will have oozing around the nozzle and heater block. Sometimes that will get behind the silcone sock and push it off. It's called the GLOB/BLOB (Depending on who you ask) of DEATH. Silk has a tendency to FOAM as it extrudes (just the make up of the material). So it likes SLOWER speeds.
You have 2 options.
1) As long as you have cleared ALL the filament from the heater block (inside the treads too) you can retighten the nozzle and heatbreak. I recommend a Torque Wrench (but not necessary) to make sure your parts on the hotend are tight. If no Torque wrench then push up on the heater block as you tighten the black Grub Screw that hoods the heater block to the hotend throat. This will ensure your ptfe tube inside is pressed uo against the heatbreak correctly. THEN screw in the 2 set screws on the left and right of the nozzle. Once those are snug tighten the nozzle. Hold the Heater block with a pair of plyers sonyou don't bend those 2 thin set screws as you tighten the nozzle. Once its on tight HEAT the nozzle to at least 200c and retighten while nozzle is HOT (BE CAREFUL NOT TO BURN YOURSELF!! THE TOOLS THAT CAME WITH THE MACHINE WILL GET HOT FAST WHILE TIGHTENING). If everything is tight and there are no gaps between the heatbreak and the nozzle you should be back in business. Essentially you are sealing (tightening) up all the gaps in the filament path so there is no where the filament go go but out the nozzle and not around it
2) Replace the Hotend with a new one (only do if you don't want to take the time to clean out the original hotend. Save your money and do the clean out). If you do chose to buy a new hotend and heater block go back and try to clean off all the old filament off the old one so you have a Backup hotend if you ever need one again. Definitely can still reuse the nozzle.
Just make sure you get all the melted filament off the parts before reusing it.
Hope that helps. Let me know if you get it back up and working.
@@3DandTeePrinting Thankyou so much, I think you are correct about what happened, yes I’ve already got most of the filament off and inside…what a tedious mess it has been, I’m just thankful it wasn’t Petg in there. I think I’m going to just order a new direct drive and like you said keep the others e as a back up, I guess it straight forward on changing it out, I’ll let you know how it goes. Thanks again for your advice and tips on making it functional but it definitely seems easier to just replace it at this time.
@PamelaBrandonChromeFoto your right Petg is a nightmare to clean off. Had a Petg blob of death but not from loose fittings. Human error!! I had sliced for a Neptune 3 Max instead of a Kobra max (originally was going to get the N3M so I had put the profile in earlier). Bed size is 20mm different. Well when it went off edge of the bed after the 3rd layers it got caught on the corner of the bed and just kept dumping filament in that corner. I come back to check on it and the entire hotend, Heatsink, nozzle and part of the fan shroud were completely encased in clear Petg. Needless to say I just replaced the entire head to make it easier. Sometimes it is just easier to install a new one. Good Luck and keep me posted. I am Rooting for you.
just one point... you can tell the ke to not calibrate every time and then this would be even more one sided in ke favor. Clearly the ke is a better value of the two.
Agreed I didn't take off the calibrations thats why later in the video I said I was just going to leave it on to keep things consistent. The KE is a better value with WiFi printing, linear motion system, and smaller foot print along similar build size (close enough) BUT that Weak gantry is a major detractor from its overall quality. If CREALITY comes out with or offers a Frame STABILIZER add on then I would recommend the E3V3KE over the N4. But with it still wobbling around I have to still choose the Neptune 4 over the KE (CURRENTLY). We braced a SE and saw a MASSIVE difference in artifacts and nozzle dragging.
For the WLAN just use a USB WLAN Stick, and add the SSID / WPK to the system config file
I got a BTT Pad 7 sitting around waiting on me to finish upgrading 2 Ender 3 Older models so I will use the 3rd connection for the Neptune 4 later on. But thanks for the advice. Would do if I didn't have the pad.
If you have the motherboard V1.0 there is a socket space for 2 additional USB ports
best ender v3 ke and v3
Both Solid Machines. I like the stability on the V3 over the KE.
what configs did you do to print TPU on the KE? I will try TPU soon, I'm using Orca
Orcaslicer Profile for TPU on E3V3KE only during this testing. Later on slowed down the Speed to 180mm/s print speed and changed flow rate to 5. Nothing drastic. The main Orcaslicer Profile is pretty good.
@@3DandTeePrinting nice! 180mm/s is fast for TPU. Thanks.
@AndreH5656 60mm OUTER WALLS though. Sorry forgot that part. Kind of important. Lol
I had the original Ender 3 V1 back from 2018 and ran a lot of upgrades on it, including a SKR mini that could run klipper. Sold it over a Neptune 4 plus.
The thing is a beast, amazing printer, a whole other level, although I imagine running klipper on the ender 3 would make it a nice printer, but the price they ask on the KE doesn't seem like a good option here in my country, I think the Neptune is a better buy
Not sure why the KE has held a higher price across the world than the US. We have new KE's for $229 USD in some stores.
On the KE, just print a side spool holder and your wobbly frame is gone.
@jeffthomas3707 The Gantry also needs Supporting. Yes removing the spool off the top helps but the gantry is WOBBLY on the SE and KE due to the "unique" extrusions. There are a few designs out there for it. @Needitmakeit has a pretty good SE/KE system of mods. You will have to drill into your printer though. I went with a bolt on option printed in ASA and M4 fastners. Much better results.
I try to do a speed test with the Neptune 4 plus. It had fail at 70 percent speed. Trying to see what I’m doing wrong
First things first did you Update the Firmware and install the service/fix patch?
@@3DandTeePrinting I install the update a month ago but I don’t know about the service/fix patch. Do you install it the same way as the update?
@cobra4988 yes but if you are on V1.2.2.65 You are current and the service patch should have installed with it.
@@3DandTeePrinting ok. I got the current version, but the bed mesh and everything, that lost me
Ender 3 v3 ke best
your slicer settings are strange i got 4 hours on that sword on the neptune 4 and it worked
Different Parameters yield different results. I used a .16mm Layer with 20% Infill Support Cubic with 120mm/s Outer walls and 300mm/s for sparse and internal. What settings did you use?
Speed kills, but on a plus means can tinker with the KE still yay
100% Agree the Ender 3 V3 SE and KE are great setups to Mod. Probably take 1 or 2 days of modding and you could have a really nice speed demon for cheaper then $300 (SE) to $350 (KE) ALL IN.
The KE prints great at 300mm/s!!!!!
Agreed but need to stabilize that frame to get the most out of it
which 3d printer has the better quality?
@DummkopfBS They are very similar in print quality but the KE does suffer from design flaw with the wobbly frame. If you print or buy a brace, it solves that issue. They are pretty evenly matched other than features.
@@3DandTeePrinting Thx
I should have tried high-speed filament put high speed n quality to test
I will keep that in mind.
Can you please add a link to the Neptune 4 mods you using?
Only Mods I have on the 4 are cable chains and PEO/PEI Build plate. Are those what you are referring to?
The cable chains and the parts form the cable chains to the mounting point on the printer
@@berlinberlin4246 printhead cable chain
www.printables.com/model/581152-elegoo-neptune-34pro-spine-cable-guide
Side of printer Cable Chain and Attachment
www.printables.com/model/581649-elegoo-neptune-44pro-cable-chain
@@3DandTeePrinting thank you!
What enclosures were those?
@Jstacks313 discontinued but here are the newer versions that comes with LED'S
a.co/d/0uUppMn
@@3DandTeePrinting thank you
Never used a printer before which one would be better? (Also been thinking of getting an ender 3 v3 SE)
@foxec4046 If you are new to 3d printing, start with the SE and learn through modding OR Ender 3 KE and still learn just less modifying. If you don't want to learn and just print you can always go A1 or A1 Mini depending on your price range your looking to spend.
@@3DandTeePrinting ok thank you!
@@3DandTeePrinting I also found a social sv06 for $209 and I’ve heard it’s really good, should I get that instead?
@foxec4046 Sv06 was good printer but it's an older generation and there are better printer for just a few dollars more.
@@3DandTeePrinting I think I’m gonna go with the SE, thank you so much for helping!
ummm ke is rated 600 on the creality store jsyk
Not sure where it says that. It is only rated for 500mm/s. I am only seeing the following:
"Faster Intuitive Printing Experience: It can print at up to 500mm/s speed with 8000mm/s² acceleration. Responsive touch UI screen with an intuitive tab bar, real-time model preview and vivid motion graphics of printing parameters." On the Creality Websites.
ua-cam.com/video/92pD89MgoPg/v-deo.html
Left - KE?
Left is NEPTUNE 4
Right one is the KE which has HEAVY ghosting and artifacts.
Creality is garbage
Ender ke is trash
To those that don't know how to use it. Yes.
great waste of kilobytes
Gigabytes! Just to make it worse. Lol
HOW can you constantly complain about KE calibrating the bed when you need to calibrate Neptune 4 manually which takes FAR longer, and you didnt even mention the need for SD card to update display firmware on Neptune 4.
cant help but feel that this is little biased omitting such crucial hindrances on neptune 4 while CONSTANTLY complaining about obviously far more friendlier automatic calibration even tho it finished printing EARLIER.
plus get a 10$ vibration calibration tool, print yourself frame support arms, and you got rid of 2/3 negatives that this printer has for almost no cost leaving just the more involved bed rails upgrade after which you got an insane printer.
@SagittarA I see your new to this channel or haven't seen any of our other content. Your points are very valid. That's why we discussed it in later SHORTS about the Neptune 4 and 4 Plus. Firmware issues from Launch, how to flash the ui, and upgraded an SE (twin frames) to a supported frame. This video is a little old now. We use SHORTS more than Full Videos yo keep people updated as things happen.
Neptune Screen
ua-cam.com/users/shorts6BKtDFEOwZw?feature=share
SE/KE Frame Bracing and Linear Rails
ua-cam.com/users/shortsD9GPMx9VE3k?feature=share
Great comparison. Pretty new to this stuff, what explains the difference in print time between the two? If they're running at the same speed, shouldn't they take roughly the same time?
Calibration at the start of the print (which can be taking off), The Printer Preset Parameters in the slicer (can also be changed), along with Flow rates (better melt zone=faster flow rates=faster prints). All that can be tuned or modified. These tests were done with UNALTERED settings so you see what you get OUT the box rather than after I have played with a bunch of settings to tune it in. Some printers need little to no tuning. Some need ALOT. Both of these 2 machines need a LITTLE tuning from their stock settings.
the Ender will shit its pants and need manual calibrating every 3 - 5 prints and only does a 12 point auto calibration where the Neptune has a 31 point calibration and once done you dont need to do it again for at least another 50-100 prints. Also the Ender is using antiquated bed springs that need to be swapped out because they have a tendency to loosen all the time and the manual leveling wheels will fall off also the Neptune has a removable screen so you can hold it and use it where the Ender is attached (this would have helped when in the enclosure) You also didnt use the "big noisy" fan which actually helps with exotic filament.
You hit SOME good points and some wrong ones.
Here's some clarity
1) Neptune has either 121 points (Pro Mode Option in Leveling) or 36 points if left.
2) The NEW Enders do NOT have springs or bed adjustment wheels on the bed like previous Ender 3's. It has spacers now. BUT those spacers are known to be incorrectly SIZED from the factory. You MAY have to add shims or washers to manually adjust to get a good bed level. Once fixed, you won't have to keep releveling. Yes, the Neptune I have Leveled ONCE since I got it and not needed to again. But the NEPTUNE has manual adjustment wheels.
3) The Big Fan is NOT needed (but was used in the video) and can be removed. If your printing engineering filament, cooling is the last thing you want when printing hot. ABS/ASA/A
PA/PC needs little to NO fans when printing.
Yes could of used N4's removable screen if I had someplace to put the screen outside the enclosure but I didn't want it dangling. It needs a velcro strap or a mounting point or else it just scratches itself dangling in mid air swinging and hitting the shelving.
Other than that, you're completely right.
Neptune 4 pro unfortunately is a failure. Prints won't stick to the bed because the printbed expands under heat for up to 20 minutes. There's also belt end clips under the bed that puncture the isolation to the point of destruction. Also the hotend is problematic it clogs often because of heat somewhere above the nozzle. Don't get me wrong i loved my N4P when it was running but the points i mentioned ruined the rest of this great device. In my case i had to heat up the printer for 15 minutes before every print and correct Z-Offset every 3 days or so. I also had to remove the hotend so often because filament melted before it touched the nozzle and clogged everything.
Hmmm mine runs perfectly fine...Absolutely no issues since I took it out of the box on Christmas@@derjeniche371
uncheck the calibration check box before printing so it don't calibrate at the beginning of each print.
I sliced them in Orca not Creality Slicer. I had to change the start g-code to remove it.
I said same thing. Having one printer calibrate every test and the other not is clearly biasing in favor of the neptune. Well it would be except the KE is still faster. For me, wifi and rails make this one a no brainer... ke for the win. Nothing wrong with the neptune but slower, no rails and no wifi are pretty significant steps down.
you can always choose to start print without calibration on KE
Your correct I could UNCHECK calibrations I was printing from Creality Print and sending it that way. But I am using ORCASLICER Profiles so I have the SAME slicer. Unfortunately the profile for the KE has it inbedded in the start g-code. I COULD change that. But I am doing Stock vs Stock with most Popular 3rd Party Slicer Profile out there BEFORE I change both of these printers. I get it. It's a long video. You skimmed through the video and missed the part where I explained "I COULD" stop it from calibrating everytime. It's cool. But yes I do know that.