What kind of LS engine & tranny did you use? I plan to buy both from the same vehicle including the computer & wiring, most likely from a crashed Tahoe.
@@MrGriffin23 thanks! cool, let me know/post a link here when you finish. I am interested in seeing how easy/difficult it is to set up the new holley/fi tech TBI systems,
Eventually want to do a swap on mine, like when people break down issues on builds and how to fix. Definitely a plus! Thanks for the info. Expense report is a plus and what parts. Thanks, best of luck on the rest of the build.
If your choke wasn't wired up... Did you adjust the thermostat open all the way? If there is no power to the thermostat it won't open all the way. If your choke is even a little closed, at idle it will flood itself out.
yea i did all the wrapping myself, i had a shop add a spacer recently which seemed to help some. Ultimately yea ill probably go with a return setup. i may move the pump to the tank but havent decided...i think the best/easiest solution would be to not use headers or wrap them to reduce a lot of the heat soak
Hey R, thanks for the tip! yea, the problem was that I was using the original 12v from the old ECU harness. Since there's no ECU now, it wasn't getting power. like you mentioned, pretty easy fix. Next is getting the MAP set up, PCV system and figuring out if the secondary's are open or not. The latter being the fun part. Thanks for watching!
@@av8bud you could run a 16gauge wire from the ignition side of the old distributor wire, up through the back of the intake, and straight to the choke thermostat. I've done it that way a few times and it keeps it a little cleaner under the hood and reuses a factory wire.
Man im done with aftermarket headers im tired of the extra heat, changing spark plugs is hell, and other parts get heat soaked....stock is all i like now
hi Charles, yea i did a 700r4 swap prior to the LS. I used the stock crossmember originally just drilled new holes and adjusted rearward. G -force crossmember now: ua-cam.com/video/7rwx8v2aS7E/v-deo.html
Really good video....thanks for the info... but I do have a question about your oil pan did you use the stock truck one... if so how far er close to the ground is it be I have been wanting to see but nobody has shown it ...
sure, no problem. I didnt go with the stock truck pan. Its too low below the crossmember, I installed holleys retrofit oil pan part 302-1. It sits even with crossmember. I love the fitment, i talk about it in another video ua-cam.com/video/Ue6SGD4Litg/v-deo.html
Hey Al, yea its been pretty good from my perspective. There's some slight hesitation when you mash the gas, but I think that's carb related. Right now I have it set on "LS1" which is what it came on out of the box I think...I haven't really played a lot with the other timing curves. Will definitely give that a try in the future. Hopefully will have a video coming out on it soon...
Xavier, currently im using the basic "LS1" setting (the top one)...hopefully soon i can put a video together on the box and the timing curves, and maybe create a custom one...more to come!
Hey Bob, i pulled this out of a 98-03ish tahoe from the local junk yard and it fit ok for me. My understanding is that they have 2 different size pulleys the 5" and 6" pulley, unfortunately i dont have any part numbers for those
Hi Mia, there's no real part number for the headers per se. These are "s10 ls swap headers" I purchased off of ebay for around a hundred dollars. They are available here: www.ebay.com/itm/Racing-Stainless-Headers-For-1982-04-Chevrolet-S10-Blazer-LS1-Sonoma-Engine-Swap/282642407336?fits=Model%3AS10%7CSubmodel%3ALS&epid=2226369464&hash=item41ceccdfa8:g:orIAAOSwg5FcGJZY . Note however you get what you pay for and even though they are shorty headers and fit really well, they are most like made in in China and are already starting to tarnish as I mention, even though they are supposedly stainless steel. I've also had to replace the collector gasket on the passenger side twice, which I forgot to mention...As for the wires, I believe the part number is 32819, but I would recommend if you have the capacity to cut your wires to fit, as I would like to relocate my coil packs in the future but the wires aren't long enough. Don't buy wire kits from the local parts store, they wont fit with these headers without modification. good luck,
hi, no, right now its just the stock carb fuel tank. I will probably change tanks when/if i decide to go fuel injection. unfortunately i think most of the other gbody tanks are different and incompatible with the el camino. not really a stalling issue when i turn more of a heat soak issue causing vapor lock when the car sits at a stop light too long in the summer.
@@ibrahim-chevelleMalibuman this is a brawler 650 (holley)...i used the stock jets for a while and then when i had it dynod they put smaller jets in as it was running too rich from the factory. i think 72 to 64, dont quote me on that tho...after using it for a while, i think it could probably use a bigger carb tho, seems most folks use a 750.
Hey man i just got a 1986 el camino, got a good amount of work done to it but it has started to choke, drove fine for a couple days then all of a sudden shut off on me. If you could take a guess what would you say is going on? Also the a/c doesn’t have any power coming into it for both the blower fan and compressor (mind you this car was in storage for over 5 years) if you can message me back and let me know thanks!
Hi Javier, that's difficult to say without knowing any more about it. If we go back to a high level and remember FAST (fuel, air, spark, timing) we just have to figure out which one of these could be the issue. Spark and air are probably the easiest to check. I would start by pulling one of the plugs out and try turning the engine over to see if you're getting any spark. Also make sure you have all your vacuum hoses connected...since its been sitting for a while a likely culprit could be the fuel system. Id pull off the fuel line to the carb and put it in a small bucket and turn the engine over to make sure the fuel pump is working. Also it would be good time to replace fuel filter in the carb. If you're getting fuel and there's no clogs it could be something internal to the carb itself. Happy to try and help further, pm me if interested. Hope this is helpful.
Ruben, for the coolant temp sensor you can just use the one that comes in the stock heads. you can see it on the drivers side front. If you use a carb setup like mine you'll need the MSD box and its just plug and play for that sensor. For the alternator, I just used the new connector and put the volt gauge wire into it. then connected one main wire back to the battery, and the other branches to the starter. you just need a ground as well of course. This wiring diagram might be helpful, this is what I've used: maliburacing.com/a-g-body-wiring-diagrams/#prettyPhoto/1/
@@juliodiaz8280 i just used the stock 5.3 flexplate...you just have to extend/open up the bolt holes a little more. You also will need the torque converter adapter ring. something like this: SUM-704004
No you don't use the computer the msd box takes the signals from the cam and crank sensors and transforms that into a signal to fire the coil packs at the correct time and order hence eliminating the computer and the carb supplies the fuel the msd box also controls timing and all that which can be changed and tweaked with a laptop to get your desired curve for your application he may have the curve not set right that's why it doesn't like the cold starts etc it has a lot left on the table I'm sure and could be a real rocket the motor In stock form is 300 hp and he did a cam so he may be up to about 350 hp the original motor was maybe 150 hp on a good day the rearend would be my. Next place to spend money with a gear swap it's got really tall gears I bet and a open diff do that and get in buckle up and hold on cuz were going sideways and tearing up.tires you won't blow it up not an L.S motor they can take boost and can spin to 8 grand in the bottom end stock w no issues the valve train is the problem. And be upgraded why do all that And not have fun with it I say just to say you spent 7 grand on a ls swap ?? Why I don't get it at all
yep, i used the holley swap pan, first generation: 302-1, the second gen pan -2 had a clearance issue with the rod bolts rubbing. www.holley.com/products/accessories/oil_pans/oil_pan_kits/gm/parts/302-1?Google+Shopping+-+Holley+-+Brand&hsa_acc=7848552874&hsa_cam=931687581&hsa_grp=98102450798&hsa_ad=421569090652&hsa_src=g&hsa_tgt=pla-882238083730&hsa_kw=&hsa_mt=&hsa_net=adwords&hsa_ver=3&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIxIil4Z7w6gIVrAiICR1r0gLMEAQYBSABEgJxT_D_BwE
its a 71981, just a general upper rad hose that fits with some twisting. The fit is just ok, and it hangs a little low for my taste. I will probably swap this out with a better fitting one at some point. If so, I'll post the new number...
good question, its SR-AL-LSXMOUNT. heres the link, ill also post in the description: streetrays.com/newstore/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=65569
@@johnnymartinez3745 assuming you're looking at the LS swap mounting plates. Yes, they should work for all the LS series engines. Obviously this could vary by manufacturer but mine were advertised as so. They just adapt the LS block to your 305/350 sbc style clam shell mount pads, and can adjust forward and backward depending on what transmission you are using. hope this helps,
@@yugisgrandpa2356 ill say this, if i can do it anyone can do it...the biggest differences between this and an sbc is the motor mounts and adapting the transmission. The crank on these is an inch shorter so you need a bushing to put on your torque converter. They make adapters and plates that mount from the old clamshell style to the ls style. I would imagine you can find headers that will fit your nova. If you get stuck have a pro do the wiring. The rest is mostly self explanatory. heres what i found from a quick search: www.brphotrods.com/products/75-59%20X%20body%20products/index.html you wont need the fuel parts if you keep it carbed like mine.
@@av8bud what (really) surprises me is that after nearly 20 years, no one has developed a roots style blower manifold (Weiand hopefully) for the LS that will facilitate carburation. Would LOVE to integrate that into my next project
@@michaelwittke8336 i think the blower shop just released a kit for LSs, carbed i believe as well: theblowershop.com/tbs-roots-style-superchargers/the-blower-shop-chevy-ls1-ls3-manifold-and-drive-kits/
@@av8bud was hoping for a manifold that would work with one of the Weiand kits (142/144) Noticed some bottom halves around the interweb, I guy might just have to take a 3/4 aluminum plate and fab up one
@@davidwilson2437 Nice! I'm sure it sounds good. Sure, as I mentioned through out, there's some modifications needed, but overall they aren't too bad. If I can do it anyone can. If you decide to go that route and have questions let me know.
you heard right 3500 to wire up the box. *cough cough*...I will admit there are a few other things I requested, replacing the trans cooler and lines, fixing the starter bolts, trans mount bolts, any other last minutes to get it drivable...but yes the majority of the work was rewiring the msd box and the rest of the engine bay, including the new alternator. 860 in parts 2660 in labor...I am happy with their work overall, however as you noted they are a performance/speed shop so their efforts came at a premium. But they were also the only ones willing to do this work...
Damn you got your draws ripped, $3500 for a $1000 job . Ummm where's the Ummm cooling fan!!! , $3500 and they didn't give you a $40 fan...wtf, that's why you gotta do this shit yourself. ...wow
That's just an. Insane amount of cash there's a lot I mean a lot of things that could have been cut back on that I would have done the valve springs and such myself and just lapped the valves in with some valve lapping compound if the cam was too high lift for the stock springs if not it and it was a good running engine why bother with a whole head rebuild maybe new umbrella seals and springs at most and definetely not 3500 bucks to. Some shop to do the wiring I would even if I had to do it over and over till I was happy and it looked like that for even a grand In electrical parts lol fuck that 3500 bucks who are they golden electric co lol and it's vapor locking because you've got the line too close to the headers and it's a dead head system both major no nos a good in the tank pump can be got to go in that car cheap the whole unit and a return style regulator for a few hundred bucks at most and use metal line run it away from the header as far away as possible you have flexible line and why can't you move it away from the heat again I didn't get that part ? The 700 r4 did it get any love maybe a Corvette servo and a shift kit both cheap and will not only extend the life but give you a second gear shift to snap your neck and everyone loves that chirp or even three ft of rubber lol the rearends next posi for sure and then maybe about 4 grand for the whole swap maybe if even close to that I don't think so tho I'm about fast for cheap that's not cheap at all lol I'm just messing w u mostly but yeah next time lemme know I'll come work for ya I could use someone who doesn't mind spending money everyone I know is like me cheap lol later I wanna see the car next time
Hi Glenn, yes I got a little carried away with the spending in some areas. I think someone on a shoestring budget could still do this and cut my cost in half if you reduced some of the unnecessary upgrades i made and given a working engine. In this case I got what i paid for (300$) for a low mileage engine, no computer, with a collapsed DOD lifter. i think it was still quite a bargain, but i did sign on the dotted line to tear into the top end for sure. so i figured while i was there might as well throw in a little more cam. Plus since this was my first build i wanted it to be with the best parts available so hopefully there wouldn't be any rework. At the end of the day with parts and labor it still was cheaper than some of gmpp crate engines i was looking at...The fuel system is definitely a work in progress. Long term i think it would be best to have a return style system, just need to get in there and drop some new lines, and route them farther from the headers. Car currently has a LSD with 3:42s, originally it came with an open 2:41. Trans is also next on the list, hopefully adding a lock up converter kit, floor shifter etc...
@ Young Solja i don't get the purpose of doing the LS Swap if he's still using a carburetor... For the money he spent, could have got a turn key 383 crate engine..
To convert that car to fuel injection is not cost effective he got a 300 dollar motor and bought an intake carb and msd box all of which he could have got cheaper but anyway what would it cost to convert to fuel injection ?? A lot more labor and wiring and fuel pump and mountimg the computer etc etc I say and this is the kicker richard holdner has done a comparison on the two the carb made the same if not more hp than the intake and shit from the truck it came from with the long runners a dual plane intake and carb was better
James, I'm using the older Holley 302-1 pan, check out the other video, if you want. ua-cam.com/video/214s2WzijOw/v-deo.html. the newer one didn't fit quite right.
Al, great question. Yes I had to buy a cowl hood to make everything fit with the carb setup. The cowl hood has a cutout for the air cleaner, but the intake sticks up high enough that you wont be able to use the stock hood with this setup. Something to consider if you want a stock look...
I love how clean they look when they’re carbureted. It illuminates all that stuff everywhere
Lol eliminates* but yes
Same. it simplifies tf outta it
Looks good.. I just ls Swapped my 79 El Camino.. Man it's so much fun
way to go man, isnt the difference huge!
What kind of LS engine & tranny did you use? I plan to buy both from the same vehicle including the computer & wiring, most likely from a crashed Tahoe.
Yeah my shop did a 6.0 from a Escalade in a el Camino like this and it turned out pretty mean
nice, jealous. It's hard to find a good 6.0 in my area for less than 1k...
Did they do an awd
@@joshuaavila8317
They installed the engine....doh
I’m trying to install a 6.0 , what should I be aware of?
Awesome video and very informative. Thank you very much for this upload
Just liked and Subscribed because fellow Elco owner and fellow Coastie! Semper P!👍🏽
thanks JJ, Semper P! Small world, probably run into you out in the fleet.
@@av8bud Check my content if you get a chance and lmk what you think. I'm always u/w so i don't get much time to make vids. Cheers! 🍻
Use a Carb Spacer and gaskets. The carb gets really hot from intake and also causes vapor lock.
Good video.
thanks man, not a bad idea. I actually have one sitting in the garage. not sure if it will fit under the hood or not...
av8bud All Good! Hope it helps. I’m doing a 6.0 Swap in my Chevelle. I’m going TBI EFI Set-up.
@@MrGriffin23 thanks! cool, let me know/post a link here when you finish. I am interested in seeing how easy/difficult it is to set up the new holley/fi tech TBI systems,
av8bud Cool. Will do. I’m using the Holley Terminator TBI Set-up.
Eventually want to do a swap on mine, like when people break down issues on builds and how to fix. Definitely a plus! Thanks for the info. Expense report is a plus and what parts. Thanks, best of luck on the rest of the build.
Thanks for the feedback Ryan, glad you found some value and knowledge sharing in this!
New drinking game .....take a shot eveytime he says umm .......i drank a fifth before the half way point umm but still a good vid.
hammered :-)
Very thorough overall explanation of your swap. New subber.
Thanks! glad you found this helpful, if you have any questions or video suggestions, let me know!
Good information
You need a return style fuel pressure regulator and that will cure your vapor lock issue
thanks, i hope to create a return style set up here shortly!
Looks clean! Watching you do this build inspired me to do the same to my Honda!
thanks man! It was definitely scary at first, but totally worth it. Good luck with the Prelude!
If your choke wasn't wired up... Did you adjust the thermostat open all the way? If there is no power to the thermostat it won't open all the way. If your choke is even a little closed, at idle it will flood itself out.
Looks clean. Would have been nice to hear it run.
thanks Ed, dyno day - ua-cam.com/video/uGuDK6nHjMc/v-deo.html
Good video. Where you get the motor
thanks, some guy was selling on FB marketplace
Intank fuel pump with a return would have solved vapor lock,and got rid of the ugly wrap
yea i did all the wrapping myself, i had a shop add a spacer recently which seemed to help some. Ultimately yea ill probably go with a return setup. i may move the pump to the tank but havent decided...i think the best/easiest solution would be to not use headers or wrap them to reduce a lot of the heat soak
Awesome video my friend
Thanks!
Not sure if you have fixed your choke by now or not, all you need is 12v from a Key-on ignition source. super easy fellow LS swapped elco guy! :D
Hey R, thanks for the tip! yea, the problem was that I was using the original 12v from the old ECU harness. Since there's no ECU now, it wasn't getting power. like you mentioned, pretty easy fix. Next is getting the MAP set up, PCV system and figuring out if the secondary's are open or not. The latter being the fun part. Thanks for watching!
@@av8bud you could run a 16gauge wire from the ignition side of the old distributor wire, up through the back of the intake, and straight to the choke thermostat. I've done it that way a few times and it keeps it a little cleaner under the hood and reuses a factory wire.
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
love it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Blames gm engineers for an ls coil hitting the air conl box in an 83 el camino? El oh El
Man im done with aftermarket headers im tired of the extra heat, changing spark plugs is hell, and other parts get heat soaked....stock is all i like now
agreed, after this id probably stay with manifolds and/or try wrapping them next time...
Also how did you wire up your alternator?
How many times did you say,,Um, nice work um
I'm working on that part...even with a discussion list it still happens.
Please explain the small brass fitting on top of the water pump?
hi Debbie, that's the temp switch going to the relay to turn on the electric fan.
What’s the horsepower/torque? Looks great thanks for the info. You put out in the video.
thanks! 264hp/301tq @ the wheels...ua-cam.com/video/uGuDK6nHjMc/v-deo.html
What kind on trans you have behind it
Trans is a 700r4 I pulled from a wrecked early 90s Silverado. Requires moving the crossmember back and shortening the drive shaft 2 inches.
Return lines prevents vapor lock
thats the plan
look good .I just got the same car n yr .. what trans did u go with .and did you have to change your crossmember
hi Charles, yea i did a 700r4 swap prior to the LS. I used the stock crossmember originally just drilled new holes and adjusted rearward. G -force crossmember now: ua-cam.com/video/7rwx8v2aS7E/v-deo.html
Really good video....thanks for the info... but I do have a question about your oil pan did you use the stock truck one... if so how far er close to the ground is it be I have been wanting to see but nobody has shown it ...
hes using a holley pan read the comments
sure, no problem. I didnt go with the stock truck pan. Its too low below the crossmember, I installed holleys retrofit oil pan part 302-1. It sits even with crossmember. I love the fitment, i talk about it in another video ua-cam.com/video/Ue6SGD4Litg/v-deo.html
Thank you brother
Did a shop do it all,how much?
has the msd 6014 been reliable? what curve are you using? "Truck". custom?
Hey Al, yea its been pretty good from my perspective. There's some slight hesitation when you mash the gas, but I think that's carb related. Right now I have it set on "LS1" which is what it came on out of the box I think...I haven't really played a lot with the other timing curves. Will definitely give that a try in the future. Hopefully will have a video coming out on it soon...
Nice work what timing curve did you go with
Xavier, currently im using the basic "LS1" setting (the top one)...hopefully soon i can put a video together on the box and the timing curves, and maybe create a custom one...more to come!
What power steering pump is that? Mine is different and hits my steering box
Hey Bob, i pulled this out of a 98-03ish tahoe from the local junk yard and it fit ok for me. My understanding is that they have 2 different size pulleys the 5" and 6" pulley, unfortunately i dont have any part numbers for those
Can you give me the part number on the headers in plug wires you used
Hi Mia, there's no real part number for the headers per se. These are "s10 ls swap headers" I purchased off of ebay for around a hundred dollars. They are available here: www.ebay.com/itm/Racing-Stainless-Headers-For-1982-04-Chevrolet-S10-Blazer-LS1-Sonoma-Engine-Swap/282642407336?fits=Model%3AS10%7CSubmodel%3ALS&epid=2226369464&hash=item41ceccdfa8:g:orIAAOSwg5FcGJZY . Note however you get what you pay for and even though they are shorty headers and fit really well, they are most like made in in China and are already starting to tarnish as I mention, even though they are supposedly stainless steel. I've also had to replace the collector gasket on the passenger side twice, which I forgot to mention...As for the wires, I believe the part number is 32819, but I would recommend if you have the capacity to cut your wires to fit, as I would like to relocate my coil packs in the future but the wires aren't long enough. Don't buy wire kits from the local parts store, they wont fit with these headers without modification. good luck,
Hey man are you still in the coastguard? Where you stationed at maybe we can get our Gbodys together sometime I’m an MK in Bmore
I am, living in NC, Semper P!
how is the msd doing i here the order ones was not to good they stop working
so far so good on this one but this is the newer 6014 model
@@av8bud cool i won ting to put ls in my k2500
What is the part number off your belt
Hey Marcus, 25-061110
www.vbeltguys.com/products/25-061110-napa-automotive-replacement-serpentine-micro-v-belt
@@av8bud Thanks
Did you use Buick grand national fuel injected tank or you kept your stock tank i was wondering if there is an stalling issue when you sharp turn?
hi, no, right now its just the stock carb fuel tank. I will probably change tanks when/if i decide to go fuel injection. unfortunately i think most of the other gbody tanks are different and incompatible with the el camino. not really a stalling issue when i turn more of a heat soak issue causing vapor lock when the car sits at a stop light too long in the summer.
@@av8bud I was wondering what cfm carb you used and did you re size the jet’s or it worked just fine ? Thanks
@@ibrahim-chevelleMalibuman this is a brawler 650 (holley)...i used the stock jets for a while and then when i had it dynod they put smaller jets in as it was running too rich from the factory. i think 72 to 64, dont quote me on that tho...after using it for a while, i think it could probably use a bigger carb tho, seems most folks use a 750.
Hey man i just got a 1986 el camino, got a good amount of work done to it but it has started to choke, drove fine for a couple days then all of a sudden shut off on me. If you could take a guess what would you say is going on? Also the a/c doesn’t have any power coming into it for both the blower fan and compressor (mind you this car was in storage for over 5 years) if you can message me back and let me know thanks!
Hi Javier, that's difficult to say without knowing any more about it. If we go back to a high level and remember FAST (fuel, air, spark, timing) we just have to figure out which one of these could be the issue. Spark and air are probably the easiest to check. I would start by pulling one of the plugs out and try turning the engine over to see if you're getting any spark. Also make sure you have all your vacuum hoses connected...since its been sitting for a while a likely culprit could be the fuel system. Id pull off the fuel line to the carb and put it in a small bucket and turn the engine over to make sure the fuel pump is working. Also it would be good time to replace fuel filter in the carb. If you're getting fuel and there's no clogs it could be something internal to the carb itself. Happy to try and help further, pm me if interested. Hope this is helpful.
av8bud thank you so much man im gonna go ahead and try it out i appreciate you
Is there a OBD2 port after you carbureted it
Chance, the MSD box sort of fills that roll. It connects to a laptop with a usb cable.
Ummm it’s a good video ummm yea
thanks for your feedback revised video is posted here: ua-cam.com/video/BjsGeXifIxc/v-deo.html
How did you tap for your coolant temperature sensor?
Ruben, for the coolant temp sensor you can just use the one that comes in the stock heads. you can see it on the drivers side front. If you use a carb setup like mine you'll need the MSD box and its just plug and play for that sensor. For the alternator, I just used the new connector and put the volt gauge wire into it. then connected one main wire back to the battery, and the other branches to the starter. you just need a ground as well of course. This wiring diagram might be helpful, this is what I've used:
maliburacing.com/a-g-body-wiring-diagrams/#prettyPhoto/1/
Great video but if we were to take a shot for every time you say umm we would be fucked up
yea, i made a better one: ua-cam.com/video/BjsGeXifIxc/v-deo.html
Just givin ya a hard time
What transmission are you running?
700r4
@@av8bud was that the Trans the El camino came with?
@@juliodiaz8280 no it originally had a th350. in the mid to late 80s i believe they switched to the 200r4
@@av8bud what flexplate are you using? I'm using a 700r4 also.
@@juliodiaz8280 i just used the stock 5.3 flexplate...you just have to extend/open up the bolt holes a little more. You also will need the torque converter adapter ring. something like this: SUM-704004
Dumb question but since you used a carb do you still need the computer
Adrian, yes, since the LS doesn't use a distributor. you will need to use an ignition control box similar to mine (MSD-6014).
No you don't use the computer the msd box takes the signals from the cam and crank sensors and transforms that into a signal to fire the coil packs at the correct time and order hence eliminating the computer and the carb supplies the fuel the msd box also controls timing and all that which can be changed and tweaked with a laptop to get your desired curve for your application he may have the curve not set right that's why it doesn't like the cold starts etc it has a lot left on the table I'm sure and could be a real rocket the motor In stock form is 300 hp and he did a cam so he may be up to about 350 hp the original motor was maybe 150 hp on a good day the rearend would be my. Next place to spend money with a gear swap it's got really tall gears I bet and a open diff do that and get in buckle up and hold on cuz were going sideways and tearing up.tires you won't blow it up not an L.S motor they can take boost and can spin to 8 grand in the bottom end stock w no issues the valve train is the problem. And be upgraded why do all that And not have fun with it I say just to say you spent 7 grand on a ls swap ?? Why I don't get it at all
Where did you run your battery ground to block or head
I ran it directly to the passenger side head
you can barely see it about 10:47
Did you swap the oil pan
yep, i used the holley swap pan, first generation: 302-1, the second gen pan -2 had a clearance issue with the rod bolts rubbing. www.holley.com/products/accessories/oil_pans/oil_pan_kits/gm/parts/302-1?Google+Shopping+-+Holley+-+Brand&hsa_acc=7848552874&hsa_cam=931687581&hsa_grp=98102450798&hsa_ad=421569090652&hsa_src=g&hsa_tgt=pla-882238083730&hsa_kw=&hsa_mt=&hsa_net=adwords&hsa_ver=3&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIxIil4Z7w6gIVrAiICR1r0gLMEAQYBSABEgJxT_D_BwE
What shop did your wiring
Mayhem Motorsports, pm me for more info if needed...
What upper hose you use
its a 71981, just a general upper rad hose that fits with some twisting. The fit is just ok, and it hangs a little low for my taste. I will probably swap this out with a better fitting one at some point. If so, I'll post the new number...
Do you have the part numbers for the motor mounts?
good question, its SR-AL-LSXMOUNT. heres the link, ill also post in the description: streetrays.com/newstore/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=65569
Will these mounts work for the 6.0 too?
@@johnnymartinez3745 assuming you're looking at the LS swap mounting plates. Yes, they should work for all the LS series engines. Obviously this could vary by manufacturer but mine were advertised as so. They just adapt the LS block to your 305/350 sbc style clam shell mount pads, and can adjust forward and backward depending on what transmission you are using. hope this helps,
What oil pan did you use
Im thinking of the muscle car pan
@@jbkuztoms5329 302-1 Holley LS swap pan 1st gen
@@av8bud ok thank you
Where did you get the engine?
i got it off of my local craigslist add, you can also find them on facebook marketplace
@@av8bud what was the level of difficulty for putting the engine in. I have a 1977 nova concourse and this the engine I am eyeing.
@@yugisgrandpa2356 ill say this, if i can do it anyone can do it...the biggest differences between this and an sbc is the motor mounts and adapting the transmission. The crank on these is an inch shorter so you need a bushing to put on your torque converter. They make adapters and plates that mount from the old clamshell style to the ls style. I would imagine you can find headers that will fit your nova. If you get stuck have a pro do the wiring. The rest is mostly self explanatory.
heres what i found from a quick search: www.brphotrods.com/products/75-59%20X%20body%20products/index.html
you wont need the fuel parts if you keep it carbed like mine.
@@av8bud thanks bud that helped a lot
Coast Guard? ^5
Semper P brother,
@@av8bud what (really) surprises me is that after nearly 20 years, no one has developed a roots style blower manifold (Weiand hopefully) for the LS that will facilitate carburation. Would LOVE to integrate that into my next project
@@michaelwittke8336 i think the blower shop just released a kit for LSs, carbed i believe as well: theblowershop.com/tbs-roots-style-superchargers/the-blower-shop-chevy-ls1-ls3-manifold-and-drive-kits/
@@av8bud was hoping for a manifold that would work with one of the Weiand kits (142/144) Noticed some bottom halves around the interweb, I guy might just have to take a 3/4 aluminum plate and fab up one
Was it expensive?
David, it was reasonable compared to a crate engine, expenses are around 15 min mark.
I currently have a 383 stroker in my Elcamino now with about 1000 miles on it. Thinking about swapping with a 6.0. Thank you for your response
@@davidwilson2437 Nice! I'm sure it sounds good. Sure, as I mentioned through out, there's some modifications needed, but overall they aren't too bad. If I can do it anyone can. If you decide to go that route and have questions let me know.
Thank you. I will definitely pic your brain if I go that route.
So they charge you 3500 just to wire up the msd box or 3500 to do the swap and wire it up..
you heard right 3500 to wire up the box. *cough cough*...I will admit there are a few other things I requested, replacing the trans cooler and lines, fixing the starter bolts, trans mount bolts, any other last minutes to get it drivable...but yes the majority of the work was rewiring the msd box and the rest of the engine bay, including the new alternator. 860 in parts 2660 in labor...I am happy with their work overall, however as you noted they are a performance/speed shop so their efforts came at a premium. But they were also the only ones willing to do this work...
@@av8bud dang I do swaps for 3500 all the labor check my page starting my elco build
Damn you got your draws ripped, $3500 for a $1000 job
. Ummm where's the Ummm cooling fan!!! , $3500 and they didn't give you a $40 fan...wtf, that's why you gotta do this shit yourself. ...wow
Barrera Customs where are u located
That's just an. Insane amount of cash there's a lot I mean a lot of things that could have been cut back on that I would have done the valve springs and such myself and just lapped the valves in with some valve lapping compound if the cam was too high lift for the stock springs if not it and it was a good running engine why bother with a whole head rebuild maybe new umbrella seals and springs at most and definetely not 3500 bucks to. Some shop to do the wiring I would even if I had to do it over and over till I was happy and it looked like that for even a grand In electrical parts lol fuck that 3500 bucks who are they golden electric co lol and it's vapor locking because you've got the line too close to the headers and it's a dead head system both major no nos a good in the tank pump can be got to go in that car cheap the whole unit and a return style regulator for a few hundred bucks at most and use metal line run it away from the header as far away as possible you have flexible line and why can't you move it away from the heat again I didn't get that part ? The 700 r4 did it get any love maybe a Corvette servo and a shift kit both cheap and will not only extend the life but give you a second gear shift to snap your neck and everyone loves that chirp or even three ft of rubber lol the rearends next posi for sure and then maybe about 4 grand for the whole swap maybe if even close to that I don't think so tho I'm about fast for cheap that's not cheap at all lol I'm just messing w u mostly but yeah next time lemme know I'll come work for ya I could use someone who doesn't mind spending money everyone I know is like me cheap lol later I wanna see the car next time
Hi Glenn, yes I got a little carried away with the spending in some areas. I think someone on a shoestring budget could still do this and cut my cost in half if you reduced some of the unnecessary upgrades i made and given a working engine. In this case I got what i paid for (300$) for a low mileage engine, no computer, with a collapsed DOD lifter. i think it was still quite a bargain, but i did sign on the dotted line to tear into the top end for sure. so i figured while i was there might as well throw in a little more cam. Plus since this was my first build i wanted it to be with the best parts available so hopefully there wouldn't be any rework. At the end of the day with parts and labor it still was cheaper than some of gmpp crate engines i was looking at...The fuel system is definitely a work in progress. Long term i think it would be best to have a return style system, just need to get in there and drop some new lines, and route them farther from the headers. Car currently has a LSD with 3:42s, originally it came with an open 2:41. Trans is also next on the list, hopefully adding a lock up converter kit, floor shifter etc...
Carb engine only in a old school my friend
@ Young Solja i don't get the purpose of doing the LS Swap if he's still using a carburetor...
For the money he spent, could have got a turn key 383 crate engine..
To convert that car to fuel injection is not cost effective he got a 300 dollar motor and bought an intake carb and msd box all of which he could have got cheaper but anyway what would it cost to convert to fuel injection ?? A lot more labor and wiring and fuel pump and mountimg the computer etc etc I say and this is the kicker richard holdner has done a comparison on the two the carb made the same if not more hp than the intake and shit from the truck it came from with the long runners a dual plane intake and carb was better
Umm
Semper paratus
Semper P shipmate!
Um
thanks for your feedback revised video is posted here: ua-cam.com/video/BjsGeXifIxc/v-deo.html
ummm sorry but ummm i could ummm only ummm handle 60 ummm seconds ummm of ummmm this ummm video
thanks for your feedback revised video is posted here: ua-cam.com/video/BjsGeXifIxc/v-deo.html
What oil pan are you using?
James, I'm using the older Holley 302-1 pan, check out the other video, if you want. ua-cam.com/video/214s2WzijOw/v-deo.html. the newer one didn't fit quite right.
Any hood clearance issues with the air cleaner?
Al, great question. Yes I had to buy a cowl hood to make everything fit with the carb setup. The cowl hood has a cutout for the air cleaner, but the intake sticks up high enough that you wont be able to use the stock hood with this setup. Something to consider if you want a stock look...
Umm
thanks for your feedback revised video is posted here: ua-cam.com/video/BjsGeXifIxc/v-deo.html