Dude… this shit is GOLDEN. Wow. Can’t speak highly enough about the information in this video. And such great delivery and communication with everything . Well done, man, well done. Thank you
The useful timing difference between the EFI and carb. versions of the same engine have to do with the difference in the state of the fuel between a venturi and an injector. The fuel from the carb is more in a liquid state compared to the efi gaseous or fume state. the carbs fuel when entering the combustion chamber needs a little more time to completely explode compared to the fuel injection.
Great video. I have a suggestion that i think would be extremely popular; tuning a carbed LS cradle to grave using 6014. Slap a untuned 750 dp on and start the process. Show default idle timing to tune carb, show different changes and tuning tips used for getting your idle set, work into testing and settings used for first drive etc. I have never seen any video's breaking down all the small things that most of us kill ourselves researching as garage/weekend builders. It would be a carb ls learning adventure
@Scramspeed I bet. Possibly break it into sections like first start. Intial carb tune, fist drive etc. Might not be so overwhelming that way and allow more time for different segments
Very informative video. Great job. I've been trying to make the efi or carb decision for a new build I'm doing, this pushed me all the way to going with a carb. Don't know if you remember me or not, from back in the NMRA days. You bought an engine from me that I pulled out of Mike Houser's old Pure Street car.(Turns out it had seen some previous internal damage that I was unaware of, and I bought it back) Anway, thanks for a video that is extremely useful. Tony Corley
Love the content, please keep em coming! I am on my 2nd Carb'd LS, 1st was a LY5 Cammed that went bang.."my fault". Now im onto LQ4 cammed. Been using ProForms 750 Street, I've been having good luck with it so far. I wish i had the 6014, im currently running 6012. -using gen4 crank of course* The additional features on the 6014 are impressive over my 6012.
Glad its helping! That is a solid carb choice for that engine. We are working on more. If you ever do decide you'd like to upgrade, we'd be happy to help!
just picked up a 55 chevy with a ls and a msd box and I am new to this and this video helps me understand it a bit more. I am staring to install it in the car soon so i may contact you if I run into any issues.....thanks again
As a refrigeration tech, my guess is the carburetor needs more timing because the fuel is not as well atomized and nore is evaporating in the cylinder than on a well atomized fuel injection motor. The cooler cylinder would need more timing because when fuel is first lit, the flame front has to heat the mixture.
That's an interesting theory, and I am not saying you're wrong, but its also interesting that other Chevy, Ford and Mopar V8s want the same amount of timing whether they are port injected or carbureted.
That's definitely one of the theories we've heard. The counterargument being that other V8 engines don't have dissimilar timing from port injection when carbureted. Then that usually devolves into discussions about IATs because of coolant passages in the conventional intakes and such and such. I'm not saying you're wrong, I just don't know if anyone has tested it.
I really recommend using the procedure outlined in the video at about 3:15. They usually end up in the thirties range, but its better to know what your particular combination wants. They're not all the same by any means.
I don't, but if its an aftermarket tach, it is pretty simple. Simply attach the gray wire from the 6014 to the tach RPM input wire. If its a factory tach it gets significantly more complex and is vehicle dependent.
What are your thoughts on 4.8ls gt45 turbo msd 6014 Edelbrock avs2 1406 600cfm . modified for blow thru. The reason for this carburetor is it was free lol 👍🏻
Lots of guys have success with blow thru and MSD 6014, bearing in mind the hard boost limit that the MAP is capable of. As far as the Edelbrock goes, that's not a good reason to run the wrong carburetor. So much of how the combination performs is because of the carburetor, you'd be cutting your legs off before you got started. On a turbo LS, a new, good carburetor is not a meaningful expense, especially given the performance differential.
Send me the carb for my sbc and you go buy a new e85 carb that’s a 850cfm would work way better with the turbo plus you’d hook up a sbc friend 😂 giving is friend ship
This is great! Thanks for explaining this stuff . I have an 01 5.7LS1 with patriot 243 ported heads, 228R cam ,1-7/8" headers. Preformer rmp I take and a QF 750 race carb. I'm wondering what you think a good starting point for degrees at idle, and what point would you start ramping up your timing. I'm running 28° total starting @1300rpm right now. Car runs ok but does diesel a bit when I shut it down on warmer days. I realize all motors are different. Just looking for your thoughts as I don't have a track or dyno shop nearby.
The ignition timing isn't likely itself to be the direct source of the problem, as there is no ignition activity after you shut the car off. A carburetor will still flow fuel on engine shutdown because the engine is still pulling fuel through it as it spins down. If the throttle blades are open to let enough air in, and if there's a secondary ignition source, carbon, a hot or too hot heat range spark plug, etc, it can diesel. I do not run that much ignition timing in any of my carbureted stuff. Most often it's 15*. You can run high timing to alleviate an overly rich condition, but you're better off adjusting the carb properly. On that carb, I would start with 15* to 1500, idle mixture screws 3/4 of one turn out from bottom, and adjust idle speed to where it needs to be when there's heat in the engine. Important: Check plugs, if black use new ones to set idle. Best of luck!
Hello, so I’m considering making my 5.3 LS1 carbureted, I currently have a TSP cam in there. Do you have any videos specifically for programming a cam?
Getting ready to put a carb on a stock 2009 6.0, in a 84 Regal, so any info on this setup would be great! Thanks! also would like to spray it with a small shot of NOS, any info on that would also be greatly appreciated.
I do cover the functionality of the timing retard for the nitrous in the previous video, and the best way to get your timing baseline in in this video. If you need more help, please give us a call at the shop 217.590.0128, ask for Steve.
@ The tune I recommended is the most aggressive timing curve of the preconfigured tunes. The firing order is the same on all LS. The custom tunes are customizable, whereas the preconfigured are fixed. All the answers about this box are in the videos we've made about it. Hope this helps.
Honestly I recommend the path in the video and see how much timing it really wants. E85 is always hard starting this time of yearm so you might throw a little timing at it based on the CTS.
Mine always idles at around 900-1000 rpm’s. Even when I adjust the idle screw it will idle high again after driving it around for a while. Sometimes it will diesel when I turn it off as well?
You should check for a bent throttle shaft right away. With the return springs removed, and car NOT running. (It is helpful to remove the carb so you can see the throttle plates.) Move the linkage arm through it's range of travel a couple of times and let it return naturally. Then see if the throttle arm needs to still be moved to close fully. Repeat this a couple times. If so, you likely have a bent throttle shaft. This can be caused by having the throttle cable being too short, and overpull at wide open throttle, tweaking the shaft. This is an extremely dangerous condition as it can lead to the carburetor hanging open under throttle. That would explain the sometimes dieseling because it's allowing more air into the engine as it spins down. The carburetor always flows fuel a little on shut-down (unlike fuel injection). There's no spark with the ignition off, but fuel+air+hot is where dieseling comes from. If that's the case you should at a minimum replace the throttle plate immediately. It might also be that you've got your idle mix too rich, so you have to give it extra idle speed to run at idle. Hope this helps.
Mine has been in my car for almost 8 years without missing a trick. Kyle, one of the owners had a 6014 in an LS powered '70 Cougar with which he completed Drag Week, and the Hot Rod Power Tour, drove on nice days and did road racing and autocross events. We've not had reported failures on a single one of the boxes we've installed. I'd say they're pretty reliable.
for just street driving what should my timing be its a LS 6.0 bored 30 over 650 holy carb 585 lift duration 228 intake 230 exhaust 6014 msd box 317 heads with bigger valve springs and up graded rockers 25 to 2700 stall converter with long tube headers i have the box set on truck ho and if i try and do a burn out at about 3000 to 4000 rpm it falls flat on its face i tried tuning the carb and still if you can point me in the right spot i would appreciate it.
That sounds like an intermediate circuit problem on the carb (squirter/pump cam). you powerbrake it up to 3000 and put it to the floor and it falls on its face? You're probably going to end up somewhere around 30 degrees of timing, but there's no substitute for using the method outlined in the video and finding out what yours actually wants.
It has to be Windows compatible. It can't be a Chromebook. It does not take a lot of PC horsepower to run. You don't need an expensive machine by any stretch.
I have a question. Love your channel!! First my husband has a street truck 5.3 LS carb. We have the msd box 6014. It is downloaded. When I pull up the MSD View I'm not seeing all of the A-F icons all usable. We are trying to set the ignition timing. He is using custom 1 and we have the ignition timing set on the app. I can't get it to go into the MSD box. Not sure what we are not doing correctly. If you could help it would be greatly appreciated. 7/10/2024
We had a fellow submit a question on our Contact Us page about the 6014 videos, but he left us the wrong email address! We'd love to help you. Please try again!
@@GeraldedwardKaiser The one I had made the most power at 35*, but I didn't run it that high. You should definitely *not* assume that yours would like the same. What if my reluctor wheel was retarded 5* or something stupid. What if yours is advanced? I would use the method outline in the video. There's no elevator to fast, you have to take the stairs. On a 300 shot I would start at like 12* total (pulling 18*) and work my way up from there a degree at a time until it stops getting significantly quicker. If you get in a hurry with a 300 shot, you will break stuff every time.
Sounds like you don't have a connection to the box. Try a different USB port on your computer. The box uses a virtual serial port, and that is usually directly tied to a specific USB port on the computer. Sometimes it changes with Microsoft update....
@@Scramspeed then my tach must be going back :/ I’m a few hundred off what the data logger shows as the correct rpm. Had the shift light on the tach at 6800 and the data logger showed 7400!
@@2manyhobbiezz Could be. Id trust the box over the tach. 6014 gets that number from the crank sensor. If it had the RPMS wrong, the car probably wouldn't run. Before you buy a tach, put a camera in the car to see if you can tell what's going on.
@@forged_billions2 my understanding is that cranking timing is fixed at 15*. I usually have my 500-1000 there as well. I would look for a vacuum leak, make sure coil packs are plugged in correct sides, and be certain idle mixture screws are opened properly
Thanks man. Georgia's only like 12-15 hours away! haha. If you want, send us an email at service@scramspeed.com and maybe I can figure out a way to help you.
Im about to do a nitrous shot on my setup. 6014 ls1 750 hp carb I plan on a 150 shot. This is going off of info i have gathered on the internet, lol. Ngk 7 heat range plug, plan on pull 10° just to be safe from 3k on. Its in a 84 el camino. I have 29° total in it. Has 2.73 gear and a th400. Runs 12.2 at 117 now. Im going through traps in 2nd gear. I plan on running the 150 right after i shift to 2nd so i don't break everything. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
I'll just say, your car is extremely fast for a 2.73 NA LS1! Definitely needs more gear. I would address that before doing anything else. My calc (not accounting for converter slip) is that you're hitting the trap at 5500 in second gear. A 3.73 gear is going to deliver more much performance than 150 shot at this point, especially if you're only spraying at half track. If I understand correctly, you haven't sprayed it yet, you currently have 29* total timing, and you're looking at spraying a 150 shot and pulling 10* with an NGK 7 heat range plug. I'm assuming pump gas. The 29* timing is likely to be conservative for your engine to start with. Pulling 10* is pretty extreme for a 150 shot and will hurt performance. If it were mine (and its not!), I would pull 2* on 150, click it off in the traps and read the plugs. I expect you will find that it would like more timing and that it will be fat (most factory nitrous kits are). But again, you're going to be way ahead with less risk to put a gear in the car. Hope this helps.
@Scramspeed thanks helps a lot. I have been gathering parts for a 3.73 build. I already got Moser axles. I didn't build the ls1. I bought it second hand. It was out of a 02 z28. Has lingenfelter gt 12 cam and ported 799 heads. I put a carburetor on it and crammed it in my el camino. I was surprised how fast it is. Thanks for your input. Look forward to learning more from you guys.
Yes. The details on where it is and how to set it are pretty close to the beginning of our first video on the 6014: ua-cam.com/video/qZ1lo_y73qw/v-deo.html
Think they need a better map diagram, it goes from like 100 to 200 so on . Can’t really get a accurate ready unless your watching in real time . Unless there is a way I have t figured out yet
I use the logger. Drive+log, check data, make adjustement, repeat. Other than that I don't have any special advice. Its remedial compared to an EFI system, but it works well enough for most folks.
@@Scramspeed yeah it is decent, I have been using it for about a year . That was my only fault , other than that is a very easy to use set up . These videos help out a lot when you are new at something . Great lesson , thanks for reply
Why are you taking timing out with boost..you adding air and fuel at the same ratios as na...most of the time if you na motor wants 30 degrees of timing ...the boosted time should be the same or close to it
With boost, you run at a richer Air/Fuel ratio than you do with a naturally aspirated combination. With nitrous, it is desirable to get as close to the peak HP NA air/fuel ratio as is prudent. In both cases: Timing is the amount of spark lead before TDC. Combustion happens much faster (and bigger) with boost or nitrous, and the spark doesn't need as much lead to light the intake charge is it does in an NA combination. If you give a boosted/nitrous engine the same timing as NA, the combustion takes place before TDC, which is how you blow head gaskets, shatter pistons, bend rods, and put windows in your engine block.
Dude… this shit is GOLDEN. Wow. Can’t speak highly enough about the information in this video. And such great delivery and communication with everything . Well done, man, well done. Thank you
Thanks man! Glad you found it helpful.
Hey I have a 5.3 WITH a cam and a 750 carb and he keeps on flooding and plugs out
@@jameswalz952 That could be a lot of things. I'l help if I can. Can you email me some details at service@scramspeed.com?
The useful timing difference between the EFI and carb. versions of the same engine have to do with the difference in the state of the fuel between a venturi and an injector. The fuel from the carb is more in a liquid state compared to the efi gaseous or fume state. the carbs fuel when entering the combustion chamber needs a little more time to completely explode compared to the fuel injection.
Great video. I have a suggestion that i think would be extremely popular; tuning a carbed LS cradle to grave using 6014.
Slap a untuned 750 dp on and start the process. Show default idle timing to tune carb, show different changes and tuning tips used for getting your idle set, work into testing and settings used for first drive etc.
I have never seen any video's breaking down all the small things that most of us kill ourselves researching as garage/weekend builders. It would be a carb ls learning adventure
Its funny you should mention that...that's what we're working on right now!
@@Scramspeedit's a great idea that no one has ever done. Good luck!
It's not as easy as it first appears. We may have bitten off too much but we're going to give it out best shot.
@Scramspeed I bet. Possibly break it into sections like first start. Intial carb tune, fist drive etc. Might not be so overwhelming that way and allow more time for different segments
Great explanation. I need to double check some of my 6014 settings I think
Great video. Keep them coming and thank you
Thanks! We've got a lot in store for this year.
Very informative video. Great job. I've been trying to make the efi or carb decision for a new build I'm doing, this pushed me all the way to going with a carb. Don't know if you remember me or not, from back in the NMRA days. You bought an engine from me that I pulled out of Mike Houser's old Pure Street car.(Turns out it had seen some previous internal damage that I was unaware of, and I bought it back) Anway, thanks for a video that is extremely useful. Tony Corley
Tony: Glad to help! I think you'll dig it. I absolutely do remember. Good times!
Video gold brotha I’m always learning from your vids, thanks 👊🏻
Thanks man! We'll try to keep it up!
Love the content, please keep em coming!
I am on my 2nd Carb'd LS, 1st was a LY5 Cammed that went bang.."my fault". Now im onto LQ4 cammed. Been using ProForms 750 Street, I've been having good luck with it so far. I wish i had the 6014, im currently running 6012. -using gen4 crank of course* The additional features on the 6014 are impressive over my 6012.
Glad its helping! That is a solid carb choice for that engine.
We are working on more. If you ever do decide you'd like to upgrade, we'd be happy to help!
@@Scramspeed do you have a preferred plug you like to use on these carb setups?
Awesome description
Excellent video !
Thanks!
just picked up a 55 chevy with a ls and a msd box and I am new to this and this video helps me understand it a bit more.
I am staring to install it in the car soon so i may contact you if I run into any issues.....thanks again
Awesome! Good luck with the project let us know if we can help.
As a refrigeration tech, my guess is the carburetor needs more timing because the fuel is not as well atomized and nore is evaporating in the cylinder than on a well atomized fuel injection motor. The cooler cylinder would need more timing because when fuel is first lit, the flame front has to heat the mixture.
fuel droplet is bigger on carb takes longer to burn which requires more timing
That's an interesting theory, and I am not saying you're wrong, but its also interesting that other Chevy, Ford and Mopar V8s want the same amount of timing whether they are port injected or carbureted.
They like more timing because of the cooling effect of the carb
That's definitely one of the theories we've heard. The counterargument being that other V8 engines don't have dissimilar timing from port injection when carbureted. Then that usually devolves into discussions about IATs because of coolant passages in the conventional intakes and such and such. I'm not saying you're wrong, I just don't know if anyone has tested it.
Man thanks for sharing!
Hope it helps you!
Do these tips work for the newer Lt engines as well
@@BidlensGarage Yes. The total timing will be slightly different. Im thinking about doing a video on running an lt with a carb as well.
That would be awesome as I am throwing one in my 68 firebird and want
putting in a 60 in a 80 trans am looking at the 6014 to run the motor what , what i like to no how do i have the stock gages work with the set up
Appreciate you Sir…🇺🇸🦅
Thanks! I'm still at it. More to come soon.
Great info. What would be a good starting point to set the timing curve for a stock 5.3 with a Holley 650 double pumper.
I really recommend using the procedure outlined in the video at about 3:15. They usually end up in the thirties range, but its better to know what your particular combination wants. They're not all the same by any means.
Have you got a video on how to hook up a tachometer to 6014?
I don't, but if its an aftermarket tach, it is pretty simple. Simply attach the gray wire from the 6014 to the tach RPM input wire. If its a factory tach it gets significantly more complex and is vehicle dependent.
What are your thoughts on 4.8ls gt45 turbo msd 6014 Edelbrock avs2 1406 600cfm . modified for blow thru. The reason for this carburetor is it was free lol 👍🏻
Lots of guys have success with blow thru and MSD 6014, bearing in mind the hard boost limit that the MAP is capable of. As far as the Edelbrock goes, that's not a good reason to run the wrong carburetor.
So much of how the combination performs is because of the carburetor, you'd be cutting your legs off before you got started. On a turbo LS, a new, good carburetor is not a meaningful expense, especially given the performance differential.
Send me the carb for my sbc and you go buy a new e85 carb that’s a 850cfm would work way better with the turbo plus you’d hook up a sbc friend 😂 giving is friend ship
This is great! Thanks for explaining this stuff . I have an 01 5.7LS1 with patriot 243 ported heads, 228R cam ,1-7/8" headers. Preformer rmp I take and a QF 750 race carb. I'm wondering what you think a good starting point for degrees at idle, and what point would you start ramping up your timing. I'm running 28° total starting @1300rpm right now. Car runs ok but does diesel a bit when I shut it down on warmer days. I realize all motors are different. Just looking for your thoughts as I don't have a track or dyno shop nearby.
The ignition timing isn't likely itself to be the direct source of the problem, as there is no ignition activity after you shut the car off. A carburetor will still flow fuel on engine shutdown because the engine is still pulling fuel through it as it spins down. If the throttle blades are open to let enough air in, and if there's a secondary ignition source, carbon, a hot or too hot heat range spark plug, etc, it can diesel.
I do not run that much ignition timing in any of my carbureted stuff. Most often it's 15*. You can run high timing to alleviate an overly rich condition, but you're better off adjusting the carb properly.
On that carb, I would start with 15* to 1500, idle mixture screws 3/4 of one turn out from bottom, and adjust idle speed to where it needs to be when there's heat in the engine. Important: Check plugs, if black use new ones to set idle.
Best of luck!
I’m in the same boat I’ll take all the information I can can’t wait for the next video
Hello, so I’m considering making my 5.3 LS1 carbureted, I currently have a TSP cam in there. Do you have any videos specifically for programming a cam?
Really most of the tuning for a cam takes place in the carburetor on one of these setups.
Getting ready to put a carb on a stock 2009 6.0, in a 84 Regal, so any info on this setup would be great! Thanks! also would like to spray it with a small shot of NOS, any info on that would also be greatly appreciated.
I do cover the functionality of the timing retard for the nitrous in the previous video, and the best way to get your timing baseline in in this video. If you need more help, please give us a call at the shop 217.590.0128, ask for Steve.
@@Scramspeed Thank you!
I can seem to find the download?Can some one please share the link..Thanks
Go here:
www.holley.com/support/ignition/
5th thing down from the top is MSD View Software. There you go.
@ Thanks again,much appreciated..!
Which I go set ? H.O truck or custom 3 ? I have l33 5.3 with holley sniper and 8733r1 cam summit.
@@warrenglover set it for ls1/2/3 HO and hook up the map sensor to a vacuum source.
@@Scramspeed thanks you
@Scramspeed what difference ls 1 ,2 ,3 ? And custom 1,2,3,4 ? And truck stock ,H.O truck are difference timing?
Or difference firing order?
@ The tune I recommended is the most aggressive timing curve of the preconfigured tunes. The firing order is the same on all LS. The custom tunes are customizable, whereas the preconfigured are fixed. All the answers about this box are in the videos we've made about it. Hope this helps.
I have a gen4 ls1 5.3 bored 30 over with 2cc poptop Pistons with AFR heads 64cc chamber on e85 any ideas on base timing and turning?
Honestly I recommend the path in the video and see how much timing it really wants. E85 is always hard starting this time of yearm so you might throw a little timing at it based on the CTS.
Mine always idles at around 900-1000 rpm’s. Even when I adjust the idle screw it will idle high again after driving it around for a while. Sometimes it will diesel when I turn it off as well?
You should check for a bent throttle shaft right away. With the return springs removed, and car NOT running. (It is helpful to remove the carb so you can see the throttle plates.) Move the linkage arm through it's range of travel a couple of times and let it return naturally. Then see if the throttle arm needs to still be moved to close fully. Repeat this a couple times. If so, you likely have a bent throttle shaft. This can be caused by having the throttle cable being too short, and overpull at wide open throttle, tweaking the shaft. This is an extremely dangerous condition as it can lead to the carburetor hanging open under throttle.
That would explain the sometimes dieseling because it's allowing more air into the engine as it spins down. The carburetor always flows fuel a little on shut-down (unlike fuel injection). There's no spark with the ignition off, but fuel+air+hot is where dieseling comes from.
If that's the case you should at a minimum replace the throttle plate immediately.
It might also be that you've got your idle mix too rich, so you have to give it extra idle speed to run at idle. Hope this helps.
How dependable are the MSD ignition box is it dependable for everyday use
Mine has been in my car for almost 8 years without missing a trick. Kyle, one of the owners had a 6014 in an LS powered '70 Cougar with which he completed Drag Week, and the Hot Rod Power Tour, drove on nice days and did road racing and autocross events. We've not had reported failures on a single one of the boxes we've installed. I'd say they're pretty reliable.
for just street driving what should my timing be its a LS 6.0 bored 30 over 650 holy carb 585 lift duration 228 intake 230 exhaust 6014 msd box 317 heads with bigger valve springs and up graded rockers 25 to 2700 stall converter with long tube headers i have the box set on truck ho and if i try and do a burn out at about 3000 to 4000 rpm it falls flat on its face i tried tuning the carb and still if you can point me in the right spot i would appreciate it.
That sounds like an intermediate circuit problem on the carb (squirter/pump cam). you powerbrake it up to 3000 and put it to the floor and it falls on its face?
You're probably going to end up somewhere around 30 degrees of timing, but there's no substitute for using the method outlined in the video and finding out what yours actually wants.
Can u use any type of lab top
It has to be Windows compatible. It can't be a Chromebook. It does not take a lot of PC horsepower to run. You don't need an expensive machine by any stretch.
I have a question. Love your channel!! First my husband has a street truck 5.3 LS carb. We have the msd box 6014. It is downloaded. When I pull up the MSD View I'm not seeing all of the A-F icons all usable. We are trying to set the ignition timing. He is using custom 1 and we have the ignition timing set on the app. I can't get it to go into the MSD box. Not sure what we are not doing correctly. If you could help it would be greatly appreciated.
7/10/2024
Can you give us a call at the shop? 217.590.0128
Thanks!
How’d you change the temperature unit from Celsius to Fahrenheit.
In the "View" menu at the top of the screen, under the listing for "Units", you can switch between Metric and Imperial.
We had a fellow submit a question on our Contact Us page about the 6014 videos, but he left us the wrong email address! We'd love to help you. Please try again!
So I have a cammed lq4 with ls3 heads carbed so yours liked 35° on motor? Where would u put it on 300 shot
@@GeraldedwardKaiser The one I had made the most power at 35*, but I didn't run it that high. You should definitely *not* assume that yours would like the same. What if my reluctor wheel was retarded 5* or something stupid. What if yours is advanced? I would use the method outline in the video. There's no elevator to fast, you have to take the stairs.
On a 300 shot I would start at like 12* total (pulling 18*) and work my way up from there a degree at a time until it stops getting significantly quicker. If you get in a hurry with a 300 shot, you will break stuff every time.
I was on my laptop with the software, for some reason the tabs at the top to send the information aren't lit up to do so..any idea?
Sounds like you don't have a connection to the box. Try a different USB port on your computer. The box uses a virtual serial port, and that is usually directly tied to a specific USB port on the computer. Sometimes it changes with Microsoft update....
Do you have to use a tach adapter with the MSD 6014?
No, the grey wire on the MSD 6014 attaches to the conventional tach input wire on an Autometer or similar tach.
@@Scramspeed then my tach must be going back :/ I’m a few hundred off what the data logger shows as the correct rpm. Had the shift light on the tach at 6800 and the data logger showed 7400!
@@2manyhobbiezz Could be. Id trust the box over the tach. 6014 gets that number from the crank sensor. If it had the RPMS wrong, the car probably wouldn't run. Before you buy a tach, put a camera in the car to see if you can tell what's going on.
@@Scramspeed it repeated three passes in a row so it’s gotta be the tach. Guess I’ll spend the $ and get an auto meter :)
at 6:20, you mention: "at part throttle, as load increases you add timing"....shouldn't it be: at part throttle, as load DECREASES you add timing ?
Yes, you are correct. Oops. I'll see what I can do about adding a correction. Thanks for pointing that out.
My carb backfires when I try to start it im thinking bout adding or lowering the timing for start up
@@forged_billions2 my understanding is that cranking timing is fixed at 15*. I usually have my 500-1000 there as well.
I would look for a vacuum leak, make sure coil packs are plugged in correct sides, and be certain idle mixture screws are opened properly
@@Scramspeed ok thanks
@@Scramspeed I got it fixed. I grounded box straight to the battery and adjusted idle air screws
Now it runs like a beast , thanks again
@@forged_billions2 glad to hear it!!
I wish you could pay yea set up my truck 4.8 I am in GA I can't find any one to help running a carb
Thanks man. Georgia's only like 12-15 hours away! haha. If you want, send us an email at service@scramspeed.com and maybe I can figure out a way to help you.
Im about to do a nitrous shot on my setup. 6014 ls1 750 hp carb I plan on a 150 shot. This is going off of info i have gathered on the internet, lol. Ngk 7 heat range plug, plan on pull 10° just to be safe from 3k on. Its in a 84 el camino. I have 29° total in it. Has 2.73 gear and a th400. Runs 12.2 at 117 now. Im going through traps in 2nd gear. I plan on running the 150 right after i shift to 2nd so i don't break everything. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
I'll just say, your car is extremely fast for a 2.73 NA LS1! Definitely needs more gear. I would address that before doing anything else. My calc (not accounting for converter slip) is that you're hitting the trap at 5500 in second gear. A 3.73 gear is going to deliver more much performance than 150 shot at this point, especially if you're only spraying at half track.
If I understand correctly, you haven't sprayed it yet, you currently have 29* total timing, and you're looking at spraying a 150 shot and pulling 10* with an NGK 7 heat range plug. I'm assuming pump gas. The 29* timing is likely to be conservative for your engine to start with. Pulling 10* is pretty extreme for a 150 shot and will hurt performance. If it were mine (and its not!), I would pull 2* on 150, click it off in the traps and read the plugs. I expect you will find that it would like more timing and that it will be fat (most factory nitrous kits are). But again, you're going to be way ahead with less risk to put a gear in the car. Hope this helps.
@Scramspeed thanks helps a lot. I have been gathering parts for a 3.73 build. I already got Moser axles. I didn't build the ls1. I bought it second hand. It was out of a 02 z28. Has lingenfelter gt 12 cam and ported 799 heads. I put a carburetor on it and crammed it in my el camino. I was surprised how fast it is. Thanks for your input. Look forward to learning more from you guys.
@@justinadams1360 An LS1 is a pretty amazing thing! Good luck with it this year.
@@Scramspeed thank you. Looking forward to it
Where can I get the software?
Go here: www.holley.com/support/ignition/
It is the 5th item down or so, called MSD View Software.
documents.holley.com/msdview-4.5.8.exe
Do they have a version for apple ?
@@forged_billions2 No they don't. If you must use it with Apple you would have to run a VM.
@@Scramspeed ok 👍🏾
Is there a rev limiter in the box?
Yes. The details on where it is and how to set it are pretty close to the beginning of our first video on the 6014:
ua-cam.com/video/qZ1lo_y73qw/v-deo.html
Thanks.
Think they need a better map diagram, it goes from like 100 to 200 so on . Can’t really get a accurate ready unless your watching in real time . Unless there is a way I have t figured out yet
I use the logger. Drive+log, check data, make adjustement, repeat. Other than that I don't have any special advice. Its remedial compared to an EFI system, but it works well enough for most folks.
@@Scramspeed yeah it is decent, I have been using it for about a year . That was my only fault , other than that is a very easy to use set up . These videos help out a lot when you are new at something . Great lesson , thanks for reply
Why are you taking timing out with boost..you adding air and fuel at the same ratios as na...most of the time if you na motor wants 30 degrees of timing ...the boosted time should be the same or close to it
With boost, you run at a richer Air/Fuel ratio than you do with a naturally aspirated combination. With nitrous, it is desirable to get as close to the peak HP NA air/fuel ratio as is prudent.
In both cases:
Timing is the amount of spark lead before TDC. Combustion happens much faster (and bigger) with boost or nitrous, and the spark doesn't need as much lead to light the intake charge is it does in an NA combination.
If you give a boosted/nitrous engine the same timing as NA, the combustion takes place before TDC, which is how you blow head gaskets, shatter pistons, bend rods, and put windows in your engine block.
You have to pull timing as boost goes up or it’ll blow up.. lol
Do more research on combustion, you got it backwards!