I hear Ape's voice in my head saying, "Now don't get it twisted, son." Seriously though, this was a great build video. It's helpful seeing the common mistakes that can be made.
If I had a nickle for every time I forgot to put the heat shrink on first I could buy a Flex 6600 and have change. Thanks for keeping it real, Jeem. It truly helps.
That a great antenna. love that winder base. I wound a lot of toroid's and so so at it. Chuck and Ape got me beat . I did stack of 2 and 3 T-240 toroid's with 10 AWG solod MAG wire . 49:1 for QRO end fed half wave. my fingers hurt 2 days. but doing 500 watt FT8 on 10/12 meters was fun. I ran 1/2 wave cut for 12 and fold back for 11 and 10 meters. bunch of ground elements like the DX commander antenna. ran up DX commander 10 meter pole. ran veritable like the Poseidon one but mono band cut 1/2 wave with 49:1 stack toroid core that one has the 100 PF 3 KV cap. ferrite stayed cool ! love the testing Ape and Chuck did. they did post some video's showing that ! for a small easy to deploy antenna this is all some. great POTA SOTA antenna . love that antenna wire. I buy it in larger AWG . I used DX commander wire on my mono band 1/2 wave veritable build . the half wave mono band DX commander antenna I made. that a fun kit you 4 made. 73's
Robert - I've been thrilled with the performance. I've been using it all weekend on FT8, and some phone, and it's absolutely tearing up Europe, SA, and Africa. Thanks for the support and thanks for watching!
Nicely done Jim, well except for those small mishaps... lol! I would assume this antenna is made to be used 6-40. Looks like it works fine, congrats on another great product.
That was a good and informative review! One small correction, though: MultiJet Fusion is HP's brand of 3D printer. Distinguishing them is like saying "this isn't a pickup, it's an F150." Like you implied, though, MJF is a high-quality commercial-grade printer, and it uses nylon instead of PLA, both good things for the quality of this antenna. Thanks for the great video!
Thanks for watching! FWIW - MJF is also an additive printing methodology - "Multi Jet Fusion (MJF) Similar to SLS, Multi Jet Fusion also builds functional parts from nylon powder. Rather than using a laser to sinter the powder, MJF uses an inkjet array to apply fusing agents to the bed of nylon powder. Then a heating element passes over the bed to fuse each layer. This results in more consistent mechanical properties compared to SLS as well as improved surface finish. Another benefit of the MJF process is the accelerated build time, which leads to lower production costs."
I want a pre-made one by Mr Ape, cause Jeem buggered up the toe-roid... Ape is the toe-roid specialist. If Ape builds me a special one on video, I will buy one.😁👌
Have you tried one without close spacing the wires? I don't think the extra inter-winding capacitance is useful. You could also use one piece of wire twice as long, wrap the first 8 turns, sand off some enamel for the tap, and lay the final 8 turns roughly between the first 8. I believe that's easier than managing winding two wires at once. Then I'd use stranded wire to connect the tap to the BNC center pin (some of the left over BNTECHGO wire should be fine, and you don't need to keep the insulation) will help avoid stress breaks due to vibration or getting nudged in the go bag. (Don't let the solder crawl up into the body of the stranded lead, the point is for it to remain flexible.) If you leave the stranded tap connection long enough, you could also try the adjacent tap points, just to see what it does to the SWR curve. And speaking of the SWR curve, it would be interesting to see the real and imaginary parts of the reflection coefficient (or, equivalently, a Smith chart showing just the ham bands, labeled, or each on its own separate chart). That point out whether the addition of a capacitor, or moving the tap, possibly on a per band basis, might help. (Though it's still not going to be an efficient antenna on 80m.) (Maybe I'll snag a type 52 toroid and play.) Nice mechanicals, and nice video.
Thanks for the comments! This is the current kit CaHR is selling, so I put it together as designed. You're correct, there's a lot of different ways you can slice this loaf. Another guy I saw went down the path you mentioned, he built a multi-tapped setup.
Jim- Just ordered one 👍 Question/Love to see: (To expand on being able to use an internal tuner at 3:1swr) Would it be substantially beneficial to use a tuner at the feedpoint compared to one built into the radio (ie. IC-7300)?
Everything I've seen said that is the place to do it. Ape could give you a solid dissertation on why, but basically, if you're tuning at the antenna (assuming your cable is 50ohm) then it's better. I cannot remember the specifics, and unless you get a snazzy remote tuner, it's not really possible. I'd bet that most hams are tuning at the radio end (obvi if they're using the radio tuner), but that's also how I do it. They do make outdoor tuners, and of course that would require power out to the antenna to drive the tuner.
They work better than I thought they would 😮
I hear Ape's voice in my head saying, "Now don't get it twisted, son." Seriously though, this was a great build video. It's helpful seeing the common mistakes that can be made.
Mad respect for Ape and Chuck for the QC on this. Well done with the video, Jim!!
Great work Jim , glad you built this bad boy!
I like past Jeem best ;) I appreciate you putting leaving in your mistakes and correcting them. It really helps in understanding the build.
Build the Poseidon. It will be an ADVENTURE! (movie reference)
I will definitely re-watch this when mine comes in on Wednesday.
I got duped into watching this video because I thought you were outside. Haha looks like a cracking antenna!
Haha, Jeem doesn't do "outside".😂
You did a great job at presenting the Poseidon Antenna Jim, thank you for doing that.
If I had a nickle for every time I forgot to put the heat shrink on first I could buy a Flex 6600 and have change.
Thanks for keeping it real, Jeem. It truly helps.
Finally getting a chance to watch this!
Nice job Jeem! A true man of honor as well, you didn't need to show us that slight mess up.. gotta respect that
Don't expect a Chair Force veteran to be able to properly pronounce Poseidon 🌮🌮🌮
🤣
Who doesn't love solder?? :D
Can't wait to get mine. Thanks and 73!
That a great antenna. love that winder base. I wound a lot of toroid's and so so at it. Chuck and Ape got me beat . I did stack of 2 and 3 T-240 toroid's with 10 AWG solod MAG wire . 49:1 for QRO end fed half wave. my fingers hurt 2 days. but doing 500 watt FT8 on 10/12 meters was fun. I ran 1/2 wave cut for 12 and fold back for 11 and 10 meters. bunch of ground elements like the DX commander antenna. ran up DX commander 10 meter pole. ran veritable like the Poseidon one but mono band cut 1/2 wave with 49:1 stack toroid core that one has the 100 PF 3 KV cap. ferrite stayed cool ! love the testing Ape and Chuck did. they did post some video's showing that ! for a small easy to deploy antenna this is all some. great POTA SOTA antenna . love that antenna wire. I buy it in larger AWG . I used DX commander wire on my mono band 1/2 wave veritable build . the half wave mono band DX commander antenna I made. that a fun kit you 4 made. 73's
Robert - I've been thrilled with the performance. I've been using it all weekend on FT8, and some phone, and it's absolutely tearing up Europe, SA, and Africa. Thanks for the support and thanks for watching!
Nicely done Jim, well except for those small mishaps... lol! I would assume this antenna is made to be used 6-40. Looks like it works fine, congrats on another great product.
The Poseidon Adventure!!!
Good stuff, Jim! I might have to add that to my antenna collection!
That was a good and informative review! One small correction, though: MultiJet Fusion is HP's brand of 3D printer. Distinguishing them is like saying "this isn't a pickup, it's an F150." Like you implied, though, MJF is a high-quality commercial-grade printer, and it uses nylon instead of PLA, both good things for the quality of this antenna. Thanks for the great video!
Thanks for watching! FWIW - MJF is also an additive printing methodology -
"Multi Jet Fusion (MJF)
Similar to SLS, Multi Jet Fusion also builds functional parts from nylon powder. Rather than using a laser to sinter the powder, MJF uses an inkjet array to apply fusing agents to the bed of nylon powder. Then a heating element passes over the bed to fuse each layer. This results in more consistent mechanical properties compared to SLS as well as improved surface finish. Another benefit of the MJF process is the accelerated build time, which leads to lower production costs."
It's like the F150 of 3D printers? @@FEPLabsRadio
I want a pre-made one by Mr Ape, cause Jeem buggered up the toe-roid... Ape is the toe-roid specialist.
If Ape builds me a special one on video, I will buy one.😁👌
I think the give away on the crossed streams when the cat was trying to date the dog! Hi Hi 73
Have you tried one without close spacing the wires? I don't think the extra inter-winding capacitance is useful. You could also use one piece of wire twice as long, wrap the first 8 turns, sand off some enamel for the tap, and lay the final 8 turns roughly between the first 8. I believe that's easier than managing winding two wires at once. Then I'd use stranded wire to connect the tap to the BNC center pin (some of the left over BNTECHGO wire should be fine, and you don't need to keep the insulation) will help avoid stress breaks due to vibration or getting nudged in the go bag. (Don't let the solder crawl up into the body of the stranded lead, the point is for it to remain flexible.)
If you leave the stranded tap connection long enough, you could also try the adjacent tap points, just to see what it does to the SWR curve.
And speaking of the SWR curve, it would be interesting to see the real and imaginary parts of the reflection coefficient (or, equivalently, a Smith chart showing just the ham bands, labeled, or each on its own separate chart). That point out whether the addition of a capacitor, or moving the tap, possibly on a per band basis, might help. (Though it's still not going to be an efficient antenna on 80m.) (Maybe I'll snag a type 52 toroid and play.)
Nice mechanicals, and nice video.
Thanks for the comments! This is the current kit CaHR is selling, so I put it together as designed. You're correct, there's a lot of different ways you can slice this loaf. Another guy I saw went down the path you mentioned, he built a multi-tapped setup.
Jim-
Just ordered one 👍
Question/Love to see: (To expand on being able to use an internal tuner at 3:1swr)
Would it be substantially beneficial to use a tuner at the feedpoint compared to one built into the radio (ie. IC-7300)?
Everything I've seen said that is the place to do it. Ape could give you a solid dissertation on why, but basically, if you're tuning at the antenna (assuming your cable is 50ohm) then it's better. I cannot remember the specifics, and unless you get a snazzy remote tuner, it's not really possible. I'd bet that most hams are tuning at the radio end (obvi if they're using the radio tuner), but that's also how I do it. They do make outdoor tuners, and of course that would require power out to the antenna to drive the tuner.
is it possible to buy just the winder? I need 2-3 for my personal projects.
No sir, we don't sell the winder separately.
What size orange BNTECHGO wire did you use?
22 gauge
Next time Future Jim shows up, can we get a few stock market tips? Maybe who wins the World Series 2024?
Most UA-camrs would hide their mitsakes, well done on showing us the dark side
I would not brag about an antenna that is above 2:1 for most bands. I use type 43 toroids for mine and they are under 1.5 to 1 for the HF bands.
Thanks for watching.
Even the "pros" make mistakes.