DIY 9:1 Unun End Fed Random Wire Antenna for Ham Radio
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- Опубліковано 30 лип 2024
- This video discusses End Fed antennas and particularly End Fed Random Wire antennas for ham radio. Additionally, we go through the process of building a 9:1 Unun for an EFRW Antenna.
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I'm glad to know I'm not the only one to strip the plastic insulators off wire terminals.
It is the way
Building toys is the best part of this hobby!!! I've started playing with my radio gear recently and realized how many antennas and other "things" I've made..lol!! Good stuff Ape!
Totally agree, thanks for stopping by Ron 👍
With a 117 foot sloper and a 9:1 UNUN I get great performance on 160-6 meters! The wire goes from 10 feet at the edge of my roof to 50 feet in a tree. Using 125 feet of RG8X and a line isolator at the back of the transceiver; all bands are under 3:1, so the internal tuner gets me the entire HF spectrum!
By the way; earth grounding on the antenna side of the line isolator produces a dramatic reduction in noise.
W6PDL
Hey Dale, that’s awesome you are having such luck with it 👍
I was using the 84 ft wire with a 16-17 ft counterpoise and a LDG auto tuner before I moved, worked great. I now have less space and must go to a shorter wire, maybe 41 ft. Great video with most everything you need to know about setting up one of these antennas.
Hey Michael, that’s what I like so much about these antennas… the versatility. Thanks for watching and I’m glad you liked it 👍
Thanks Ape. I'm sitting down with this video this morning with a big cup of coffee and getting everything sorted out.
That’s awesome Paul, good luck with the project 👍
I'm looking to do this project soon. Gonna have to watch this vid a few more times and read all the comments before I sit down to make it.
It’s a fun project, good luck with it 👍
Good job on both construction and a clear and concise explanation. I always install a CMC in addition to the one 8K-ohm choke that's permanently attached to the output of the rig as well as randomly placed, cheap EMI split beads (barrels) clipped on the coax feedline. When using ferrite cores split or not, use the proper size 31 mix core and the "turns-squared" advantage of 3-4 turns over a larger core versus a long string of snap on ferrites. 2-turns equals 4 beads. 3-turns equals 9 beads, etc... The other thing that causes a rise in SWR as frequency increases is leakage inductance and distributed capacitance of the windings as the turns approach a 1/4 wavelength. 73's AD6AE
Thanks for the info OB. I have used beads in the past but do prefer the toe-roids 👍
I'm impressed by how easily your're able to get the wing nuts on without them wanting to cross-thread like always happens to me.
I guess I am a pro! Thanks for watching Jay
buy better quality hardware
Very good explanation. I have had great luck with 49:1 EFHW antennas, both bought and built, but the 9:1 I built has given me all kinds of problems getting it to resonate. This weekend I'm going to tear it apart and rebuild it from this video. 👍
Good luck Doug, I hope you get it sorted out.
What was the issue?
The BEST DIY antenna video I have come across. Thanks for taking the time to explain what many just take for granted
Thanks BD, glad you liked it 👍
Excellent, I've been thinking of building one of these for quite some time.
Hopefully the video is helpful 👍
Great explanation into the unit that is a 9:1. A good antenna for /p where there is a need to be wary of EMF to those members of the public that may not be aware. I use my own with wire, vertical on a 10m f/glass pole.
Thanks for checking it out Gary 👍
Crimping ain't easy! Thanks for the great information Ape 👍👍
Glad you liked it W6IWN 👍
I've run both the 9:1 and 49:1 and both antennas worked very well....the 9:1 was much shorter which helped in my installation - however, I was constantly fighting RFI both in the house and my IC7300. And yes, I tried all the recommended fixes for RFI and none worked to my satisfaction!! The 49:1 EFHW has never caused RFI so it's the wire antenna I use. 73/K6SDW
the 9:1's are more noisy, the 49:1 is my daily antenna as well 👍
Yeah. I'm using one now and it lit up my random wire. 👏
Nice, I love the random wire antennas.
I would Never PUT A LINE ISOLATOR AT THE ANTENNA SIDE. 1. It will effect your SWR and 2. Any interference picked up on the co-ax will feed direct to the TX. After decades of trying various lengths and configurations I found that a 10.14 Meter wire and 9:1 using the co-ax as a counterpoise around 10m at least of RG213 will perform well from 40 to 6m (if ATU goes above 30Mhz) The Isolator should be before the ATU. Best configurations are horizontal or L config. A word on toroid rings, a 140 may be fine for 100w CW or SSB but is not suitable for say FT8 above 25w, many commercial antenna unun's state that these are not suitable for constant power data modes. In that case up to 100w a 240/43 9.1 with PTFE wire is required at least. On the home brew Line Isolator use the same 240/43 with RG214 Coax Cable Double Shielded.
Also interested in one good for 80m. I need a good multiband antenna for Hermes Lite 2 SDR transceiver!
I put up an EFRW with a 9:1 balun, and a ferrite chole on the shack end of the co-ax (13ft long). Works great on 40 & 20, first contact was 3,000+ miles with 3.5W SSB on 20! The antenna runs slightly down, with the end just 6ft from the ground. I use a usSDX+ and an ATU-100.
Sounds like an awesome setup, thanks for the comment bro 👍
Good video Ape and while I was re-watching this video my wife came in with my with my order of wire and Toroids from JPM SUPPLY. Time for me to ge busy going to wind (2) 49/1 and (1) 9/1. JPM SUPPLY is very FAST, I ordered this on SATURDAY and here on Tuesday, that’s fast and THANKS for recommending them❗️👍 73 KV5P
Hey Mike. JPM is great, good luck with the builds 👍
Nicely done.
Thanks Buzz 👍
Your soldering iron heats up the connection WAY faster than mine! lol (that same music plays while I solder, though)... Thanks for the lesson!
Thanks for checking it out Spencer 👍
Noticed 4,5,6 and 7 colors are reversed in the graphic, but then corrected in 8. 9 and 1 the critical ones. I'm using the 14 ga. enameled magnet wire so following the windings closely. Love the way you explain things, no hype and down to earth! Subscribed. 73
Thanks AuSnuff, glad you liked it!
I wish I had a dollar for each time some sad ham told me "You can't use that. It won't work. You should know better as an extra class ham, blah blah and blah." I have a 9:1 Unun End Fed Random Wire antenna as my permanent antenna and it works great. I also made a point of using mainly components that I was told wouldn't work. With this antenna, I've reached Hungary from Northern California, which is 6,100 miles. The only adjustments I've made have been getting the antenna higher up and positioning the counterpoise. This was a really informative video! I always have problems with the order in which the wires are connected coming off of the toroid (I suspect I would have done better if I was wearing those magical "splaining" glasses). This video cleared things up. Thanks again...73...KN6KNB
Hey Hugh, I guess they read that on the internet somewhere... couldn't be further from the truth.
Excellent! Thank you!
Thanks!
Very good ,well explained 😊
Glad you liked it 👍
Excellent much appreciated
Thanks Trig, glad you liked it 👍
Awesome video
Thanks Mark 👍
Hi nice video, I built a similar set-up a while ago but with very thin SOTABEAMS Wire, at 52 feet, it's in a SLOPER setup, it works quite well but sometimes I struggle at my legal limit of 10 watts, but it's quite a stealth antenna,
Hey Wayne, I had a 9:1 for my first "real" HF antenna. I love them 👍
Great information. I saw what you did there at 10:40, LOL
Lol, thanks George! Glad it was helpful…
I Love The Experimental Mindset. Just LOVE IT !
Thanks FW, I appreciate the comment!
good work
Thank you!
Thanks! A great low cost multi-band stealth antenna! I have a 71' sloper with 9:1 unun, 50' RG8x, & common mode choke at my XPA125B amp. No tuner needed on 20, 17, 15, 12, 10. Can use the XPA125B's internal tuner for 160, 80/75, 60, 40, 30. I fortunately get SWR of 1:6 to 1 or less on all HF bands. Have made SSB DX contacts from California to Europe, Caribbean, Asia on 40, 20, 17 SSB, & get 5/9 reports on 80, 40 SSB nets. Nope, NOT a hex beam, Yagi or multi wavelength loop, but still gives lots of QRP & 100 watt thrills!
Thats awesome, thanks for sharing Jon 👍
Great video! I am planning one of these now after watching your build. By way of comparison, would you be able to also show the difference in changing the antenna side to one of the longer wires maybe a 107/119?
Keep up the great vids!
Hey JT, glad you liked the video and thanks for watching. You should be fine if you stick to one of the recommended lengths; the long you go the better for the low end bands.
Hello ! Thanks for all - BUTT please tell us the TYPE from that FERRO AMIDON. Thank you so 👋👋💪💪🍀🍀
Thank You :)
Sure thing, thanks for watching Juha 👍
I love the ptfe wire. I have a triple core I run 450 Watts no problem ssb
That PTFE is great stuff 👍
Благодарю за подробную инструкцию. Ты единственный хорошо всё объяснил и показал. Другие не показывают как правильно соединить провода.
Thank you, glad you liked the video 👍
I seriously enjoyed this video and look forward to the test results and impedance measurements. I am seeing so many use small company commercial versions without a counterpoise and would like to see the performance differences as I am still confused on this, Dave- KU9L
Check out this video: ua-cam.com/video/Y7vaXcaeVgM/v-deo.html. I always tell folks, ABC... Always Be Counterpoising.
Thanks, buddy. I did this with 14 gauge solid copper core. Bit of a job on my fingers to wind, especially since they are still healing from sharpening my axes. But anyway, I think it turned out real nice. Cheers.
Oh man, 14g is no walk in the park 😳
Your method of feeding the wire through helped a lot. It was firm enough that the loop it formed gave good leverage to also tighten the wind while pulling it through. 👍
Glad it was helpful 👍
Nice Job. looks good. I have been thinking of trying one in place of my 80m EFHW I have one built but can't remember if I tested it.
Thanks, this kit was an easy build 👍
Does the number of times you wrap the wires around to torad make a difference?
Thank you I've been a Technician only for many years ever since the no code change. However recently I have found so much interest in the HF bands and QRP projects. I just picked up a used G90 and hope to take the GENERAL Lic very soon and open the door to HF. Your video was awesome and can't wait to build one myself. Does anyone here have the answer to this: LDG shows no counterpoise on the 9:1 unun I will be using a 100' RG8X to the unun. Planned on no counterpoise with Ferrite Beads at transceiver to avoid possible rf return. Transmit is at 20W max. Or do I need a 1:1 Balun choke? Any info would be great. THANKS again for this great video!!!
Hey USA P! Good luck on the test. Many companies who make 9:1 antennas claim you don’t need a counterpoise, they rely on the coax shield to act as the counterpoise. While this would work, it’s not optimal or ideal. You r beads would reduce the RF from coming back into the radio but I would encourage you to add a balun / choke at the antenna feed point and use a counterpoise if possible.
“Box of these nuts” got me.😂😂
Thanks for watching Scott 👍
I built a couple of these a few years ago. They are my go to antenna for POTA. I use a random length counterpoise and no common mode choke. Btw, the choke IS an unun, but a different build for common mode. I do not understand how this antenna generates RFI tho. POTA on and thanks for the video. WB2SMK
I do like these types of antennas, the CMC is a result of the antenna being unbalanced 👍
"...we're just gonna white trash this...." LOL. Fun to watch Ape. I enjoy how you teach as you go.
Lol, thanks HOA 👍
amazing
clear
detaled love it!
only question is
PTFE 16awg wire - is that soid core? or stranded?
and does that matter?
It 18g stranded, it’s debatable but I’ve had no problems with stranded 👍
Second time watching. I want to build more! I need to order toroids! Yall should sell em! Wrapped and unwrapped!
Haha! Glad you liked the video Swimbaiter 👍
Thank you of great video, very good content and structure. Question: Did you release video of measuring and using this antenna?
Hey Ponz. I have used it quite a bit and it works well but I don’t think I’ve done any videos showing that 👍
These are great, but when are you going to post part two set-up tune and test? been looking but haven't found it. :-)
I can do something, it's my current antenna 👍
Just curious have you done part 2?
Awesome! New to Ham and I'm going to build this as my first antenna. I do have one question about the Remington wire. Is that a specific wire? I'm seeing all sorts of wire on the website and just wondering which one I need.
It’s 18g Teflon coated, hope that helps.
Ape! You are tinkererier than me lol. I went to that torrid website, so cool! After building your cahrtenna I went back and checked my first two Amazon ballun kits and they weren't even soldered! I guess I thought the magwire would conduct just on contact! How wrong I was! Now I have a WORKING 9:1!
Lol, that’s awesome you got it working 👍
Smoke - really good EFRW build presentation here. Thank you.
I think that I am getting smarter (?) about understanding EFRW and EFHF wave antenna designs, but one question sticks out - why do we use a wound toroid with a capacitor (an LC?) for an EFHW, but only a wound toroid (no capacitor) for a EFRW?
It has to do with additional capacitance on the high harmonics of the EFHW, here is a link where I talk about it in more detail: ua-cam.com/video/QtIqJ60KhoY/v-deo.html
@@TheSmokinApe TU, 73
Got my IC-718 yesterday. Got all the parts I need for this except the feed line choke. So close to getting on HF.
Question, is there anything I can do to substitute for the choke you use at the feed point? Thanks Ape, I watch all your videos over most for info!
Hey Kevin. No choke, look at grounding options or at a minimum a counterpoise…. Try 17’ for starters. I have a video on DIY choke baluns you might want to check. Good luck with the project 👍
I've always been a metal ham. Yagi's, beams, etc.. I just put up a 9:1 EFNR approx 180 feet long and 70 ft. of coax to unun from where I have 3-240/31 chokes. Inside the shack I have a 1:1 isolator. Almost zero rf in shack except on 18 and 21 Mhz when amp is on at 450 watts (I get rasp in my computer speakers)
End result:
Hey Dave. 180 feet, that a monster for sure. Glad to hear it's working for you and thanks for watching 👍
Question: if you are using the coax shield as the counterpoise as many home stations might, is it counterproductive to install a choke at the antenna feed point? I currently am using a choke before the coax enters my shake and I seem to be having some good results with that. It seems like I have had some trouble tuning the random wire if there is a choke at the antenna feed point AND I am using the coax shield as the counterpoise.
Hey JoAnn. If you choke at the antenna feed point you do impact the ability to use the coax as a counterpoise. You should at a minimum choke and the shack if not at the feed point. Personally I want to use the coax as transmission line only, and a counterpoise as the counterpoise. But there are a ton of opinions on the matter, best of luck 👍
Hi, I'm using a clamp on ferrite core at my feed point which is indoors, and 25 feet of the coax is wound as an ugly balun choke. I'm not using a counterpoise, but also using an MFJ Artificial ground with about 16 feet of wire as an earth.
So when you say the wire is cut at 41', is that the distance from the strain relief to the isolator/dog bone? I'm assuming it doesn't include what you loop back, but figured I would ask.
From the wing nut to where it fold back. 👍
What kind of Toroid would I want for a 160M antenna? (you mentioned the numbers). Later in the video you mentioned wire lengths. So, if I understand correctly, for 1.9MHz I would want to stay in the middle between 246 ft and 493 ft which would give me something like 369.5 ft. Is that correct? (thats an awful long wire).
I’d start with a an FT240-61 with about 155’ feet of element. Then I would adjust from there if needed. 👍
I mount my pl-239 on the inside and make sure the big hole is bigger so the collar of coax connector will fit in the hole. I get better connections with the crimp on lugs.
That's a good idea, thanks Bruce 👍
At first I drill the hole to a tight fit, then I just drill the screw holes through the flange holes and drop the screws in as I go then drill the main hole bigger afterwards so everything still fits and is centered. the only time I have had a problem is if i have a tight fit in a small box and need that extra 1/8" of space to fit everything in.
Using the red crimper dies on a blue terminal won't crimp it tight enough. Adding solder is compensation, but where the hot solder doesn't fill, it's too loose. You're also using the insulated crimper die on uninsulated terminals. There is a different die set for uninsulated terminals that you should be using.
Thanks for the info LG 👍
Does your element need to be bare wire that touches your eyelet on the unun? I see you clamped it with the protective covering still on
Hey Ken, yes it will need connectivity.
You mentioned the antenna wire length. Does that length include the strain relief at the start and the tuning length at the end or did you add extra for those lengths?
I include the strain relief 👍
Where did you obtain the wingnut and lugs from? I am having a heck of a time finding examples similar to what you used in the video.
Hey DL, it was either on Amazon or the HW shop 👍
Very informative, thanks.
Thanks for watching George
In my humble opinion, the better solution is to use a wire that you resonate on the lowest F band of interest and use it with a multi-tap UNUN for a multi-band, no tuner needed solution :)
I haven't made a multitap yet, I should give it a try. Thanks for the comment!
So, I wasn't able to [easily] locate where you actually tested the end-fed as a follow up to this video at least not from the titles. Could you please provide either the link here or respond if you decided not to do a follow up video. I've very closely paralleled your steps in building end-fed antennas w/o being aware of your build! End-fed antennas are my favorite portable go to.
I've used it with great results quite a bit since the build, I haven't done a dedicated follow up...
One more question, please? Can I use a FT140-43 toroid core instead of a ft240-43 core? Do I only sacrifice a bit of power handling capability, or is there another reason?
You can but as you mention you will loose some power handling. Thanks for checking out the video 👍
@@TheSmokinApe TU, 73
Do ypu have a follow up video showing this antenna working?
So I don't, but I use this antenna often and it works very well...
Totally unrelated to what you're talking about, I have an issue with an old ZS6BKW wire antenna that never really worked that well and the ladder- line broke away from the balun last year, after some seriously strong winds here.
It is set up as an Inverted Vee and I want to remove the balun so that I can have RG-213 as the transmission line into my shack.
Should I just dump the whole antenna or can I at least use the element wires as a dipole?
Because of the size of my property, I can't fit anything larger than this antenna to get any decent directionality.
I do however have an MFJ tuner, if that is any help at all.
What are your thoughts on this?, I'd really like to get back on HF if I could.
Sorry to lay a question like this on you with next to no information.
73,
Mike,
ZL3XD
Hey Mike, I'd keep the element wire and the window line and build a new antenna. That ZS6BKW is a big antenna so you probably have the materials to make something else.
Nice build. What is the maximum power handing capability?
I've never pushed it past 100W, if I had to guess I'd say about 350W digital and 500W SSB.
How do you lay out the counterpoise? Opposite direction of the antenna wire? Directly under the antenna wire? And wouldn't work better with a series of radials?
I try to lay the poise the opposite direction. The counter poise is used to work against the AC current in the element, AC is equal and opposite flow. Typically we use a ground plane of radials to couple the antenna system to the ground and reduce the amount of RF reflected and not absorbed by the Earth.
@@TheSmokinApe You need a good RF ground to reflect the signal so the signal will launch. Otherwise, the earth surface will absorb the signal, rendering the antenna system ineffective. I put together the 9:1 unun per your video - which is well done, by the way. I strung up 71 feet of 18 gauge insulated wire and laid down a 25 ft counterpoise to the left of the antenna. A sweep showed low SWR across all ham bands with 17 meters at full resonance. There's less than 6 ft of RG-58 coax from the tuner in my shack to the feed point of the antenna. I made some contacts on 40, 20 and 17. Signal reports were 559, 549. I added another 25' counterpoise fanned out 6 to 7 feet from the first counterpoise which slightly raised the SWR on those 3 bands after tuning (which I expected) and my signal reports came back at 579 to 599. Is this a coincidence or is this something to consider for permanent installation?
I wouldn't be concerned about the SWR as much as the better signal reports. I'd try to use that config long term...
@@TheSmokinApe I laid out a 33 ft counterpoise in the opposite direction and got great signal reports on 80 through 15. No activity on 12 or 10. But the antenna tunes great. Thanks for you video and your help.
A 9:1 or a 16:1 should both work really well, if using stranded wire stay away from 26.0-27Mhz as that is the resonant frequency of the Chlorine Atoms in PVC.
Never tried a 16:1, thanks for the info!
Another advantage of an EFRW antenna is that the torroid doesn't heat up like an EFHW.
Good point Paul
Next trick in the book to fit the very small eye crimp connector: drive the point of a scratch awl from the eye side through the crimp wings to separate them enough to insert the wire.
I like that idea 👍
9:1 is turns ratio, have you tried connecting a 450 ohm resistor to the antenna side and checking it with a spec an?
At 32:25 of this video 👍
@@TheSmokinApe oh it's a 3:1 turns, my bad.
👍
I made a EFHW for 40-10. Does a EFRW have anything better than my EFHW? I get 4 bands with out tuner, and can get others with my tuner. I can even tune 80 with an external tuner.
You might be able to get 12 & 17 or even 6 with the Random. Also, you can get a little more loss in the 49:1 but I wouldn’t loose sleep over it 👍
@@TheSmokinApe With just about 66 feet I have 4 bands without a tuner. And other bands with a tuner. My understanding is that a tuner is needed for EFRW antenna for all bands. I am new so if I am wrong let me know. 73 W4DES
I can get 80 and some of the others using my MFJ 940 tuner. I know I lose a lot using the tuner. But may need the tuner using the EFRW.@@TheSmokinApe
that is called tri feller wound . also for more power 2 cours needed and larger PTFE wire. it takes heat better than MAG wire. them dog bone insulators as also used in electric fence in farm use. so Tractor supply company has them. some times you get lucky on some bands and need no tuner. but multi band use keep a tuner on hand. 73's
Hey Robert, agreed on all counts! That’s for checking out the video 👍
@@TheSmokinApe My DX commander DX 10 and DX 50 wire on the way. My M & P POTAFLEX 7 on the way. just made to to customs today. I did find that M & P makes a great antenna wire. found it on web page . next order. I have a 9:1 with small core and MAG wire. had the MAG wire arc on FT 8 @ 40 watt. lost all RX . found burn mark on wire after un wrapping. PTFE wire better on voltage. I just wound a 64:1 with 2- T 240-43 cores with #12 PTFE wire. need bigger box. used #16 PTFE on T-240-43 for 49:1 . did not do cross over. better for QRO wrap that way. in a box like you used. all done except antenna wire and counter poise. with ICOM 7300 with 9:1 put tuned in emergency mode. drop power 50% or less. i used 40%. will tune over 3:1 . this is in the CD manual for the ICOM . many do not know this with 7300 . read the big manual I say. if you wind a 9:1 this can be 1:1 with move around how wires jump together and also makes a DC ground on center dipole to reduce static build up . the outher way to wind 1:1 . 73's
As far as. Balun is concerned,its ok, but as you said "fake antenna" for 470 ohm resistance used in place of antenna, the result might be fake for fake antenna.actual part is antenna not balun,balun use just to unbalance antenna.so when you test ,test with antenna otherwise ,i think result may be differ from actual.But,the same time ,if this balun tuned with any unbalance/untuned antenna then it's ok.pls, correct me if I am wrong
Would there be any advantage to using a 240 vs 140 Toroid?
The larger Toroids support a higher transmission power 👍
Is there a. Book that you can recommend on antenna making ?
I'd look at the ARRL handbook and ARRL Antenna book, but they are technical and can be overwhelming. Start poking around here: worldradiohistory.com/BOOKSHELF-ARH/Bookshelf_ARRL.htm
Wowsers
Lol
@@TheSmokinApe looks a bit complicated
great video where did you get the box from tsk
It's from Amazon, just search for "electronics project box" 👍
I built this UNUN based on your video, but the ground and hot are shorted. I looked at your diagram and I can see it there as well. Is this supposed to be shorted?
Yes, it’s an autotransformer which has a DC short to ground 👍
@@TheSmokinApe Thank you! It's running great btw.
Awesome!
Question - How many watts will this handle?
Easily 100w SSB or Digital
Hi, Ape! What type of solder did you use?
Hey Ed, this is what I have been using: Rosin Core Solder Wire with 60-40 Tin Lead for Electrical, Electronic, PCB Soldering; By Mandala Crafts; 50g 0.5mm
@@TheSmokinApe Awesome, thanks!!
How many wraps did you do? Maybe I missed that but isn’t it important?
9 wraps. Got it. You showed it later in the video.
So 9:1 requires 9 wraps? Does that always correlate? So 4:1 would require 4 wraps etc?
And a 49:1 requires 49 wraps? That would be beyond just challenging.
So the number of wraps is important but its a ratio between the primary and secondary windings. In this case 9 primary, and 27 secondary. 27 / 9 = 3. the square of 3 is 9 so that's how you get to 9:1.
@@TheSmokinApesorry, I’m missing something. Rewatching.
what secondary winding with 27 windings?
I see you wrapped a single toroid with 3 wires and 9 windings. There’s no second “secondary” core which is what I’d expect when in the the context of a primary and a secondary winding.
Is there a follow up to this?
I haven’t done one yet, sorry man…
Stranded wire would have more aggregate surface area, and we all know about skin-effect, so I would suggest that stranded wire of the same gauge would be better.
This was stranded wire.
@@TheSmokinApe yep, I saw that, hence my comment. I meant stranded wire is better than solid conductor.
Yep, I agree. Thanks for watching and for the comment Terry!
When You Talked ABout amrking The Ends Of The Wires, You Don`t Actually Need To Do That If You Have Multimeter, But Its A Good Practice To Do So.
Box With That Snorkle You mentioned, Its Easy, Just Drill Two Holes , Or Lets Say, Drill A Hole THRU The Whole Body Of The Box, Then Put A Plastyic Pipe In It And Seal It With Silicone And Just Glue Plastic Bits In The Middle, But Don`t Block The Hole, That Will Help With Cooling The Inside Box Like A Passive Refridgirator.
When You Pulled Out All The Nutts ANd Bolts I Was Thinking, Will You Not Use A Copper Ones? I Always Try To Use Everything Copper In The Antenna Or Between It BECAUSE IF NOT, The Radio Waves And Lets Just Say ELECTRICITY Will Threat It As A resistor And There Will be Some Problems, Even Copper Electroplating Is SUPER Good Thing To Do For Your Bits And Bops AND Not Only For RF, Its Good For Rust prevention To, I Have All My Wires SOlid Copper Ones, I Mean, The Big Ones Who Are In The Sky Attached Tto House Or From House To Down To Earth, All Copper And All The Connections Are Solid Copper As Well, One Thing Is Not Solid Copper, But Copper plated. :)
I Will Make A Video Someday On How I Copperplate Antenna Things For it :)
All My Things , Elements Are From Onne Old KGB Agent Who Passed Away And My Best Friend Inherited The Property And I Got All The Old USSR Devices, Wires And All Electronics, EVEN Radios That He Was Listening Into Hotel Rooms As A KGB Aggent, A Lot of folks who saw the devices said i need to give them to the Rīgas Ocupation Museum And Im Thinking of Doing That
Those old radios sound interesting. Thanks for all the info and insight FW 👍
Oh, it need tuner too!?
yes
But i knew the technique how to make balun ,but same time i expect correct balun ,i mean usefull
So many views on balun ratios 4:1 45:1 9:1 on & on & on
Basically make something put it together if it works for you good
I made up ef wire antenna years ago 4:1 34feet long
No counterpoise regularly got usa canada etc from NE Scotland on 10 watts 😀
10:41 “Deez nuts.” 😅
Right 👍
2.4 inches is the outer diameter :)
Right
If something has a “propensity” to break, rest assured I will find a way to break it on the very LAST hole I will drill. Usually I buy 2 boxes because I am almost always certain to frack one up. 😂. Hahaha
Lol, I do the same because I do the same!
I am surprised you say that you use a 1:1 Balun as your choke, not a 1:1 Unun. From instructions on the LDG site they recommend use of their 1:1 Unun as a choke with their 9:1 Unun on a EFRW. (I am a new Ham and using the already assembled LDG Ununs and Baluns for my experimenting, but I assume the theory of how things work is independent of the manufacturer of the transformer.) I'll attach a link to their doc below. Just look at the 3 page LDG doc. The picture on the first page shows what they recommend.
irp.cdn-website.com/4d6cc687/files/uploaded/LDG-Balun-Unun-Manual.pdf
Thanks for the link. Different people refer to "chokes" differently. In a nutshell my experience is to use a Guanella choke (sometimes called a Balun) to attenuate CMC at an antenna feedpoint. I'm pretty sure the LDG 1:1 UnUn is a Ruthoff 1:1 Voltage Balun (sometimes called an UnUn). As you can imagine it's a pretty hotly contested issue with hams. What's important is that you are using a choking. device.
@@TheSmokinApe I really appreciate you taking the time to reply. I learn a lot from watching your videos. Thanks.
@@carypeaden4147 glad to hear that they are helpful 👍
Why do we need to constantly keep having to " go ahead and " ???
Because
My wife hates that I EYEBALL a lot of things, close enough for government work
Haha
good explanation 73 pd0osg
Thanks Wouter 👍
"A box of deez nuts"
Haha, exactly right
is that a Jeep ?
Yes