This is exactly the kind of ridiculous, non sensicle, unreasonable over engineering that inspires so many people to innovate and make awesome things. Please keep doing this!
Crazy idea for a crazy project: have you considered direct heating the block by shorting say 200a through the block at low voltage? Might be possible to control heating location by mapping resistance and should be very responsive.
ok, lets face it, we have reached a pooint where ii have to write it, please load RGB colors and create a code that does mix different amounts for different colors....
29:00 a random thought to a:b test it - bead blast 2 channels different amounts, leave one normal, polish one - then load different colours in each. Run 4 colours of filament, with the motors at their absolute peak (skipping); then do a cross section analysis of what comes out to see if they have different quantities.
You should definitely keep the name for the second heating stage sub assembly "Just the tip" (and the cooling assembly "Only from behind"). (But we shouldn't get ahead of ourselves before we draw any cockclusions. SCNR)
Not sure how well it'd work for the larger section but to polish some of my copper hotend parts I use a piece of TPU filament mounted in a rotary tool with a little compound. Of course that'd only work with both sides together. It's slow but moving up and down the path worked amazingly well. This is such a cool project. I have no idea if it'll actually work but I give you badassery score of 10.
I think if you just tapered the 2mm holes into 1mm wide slots before joining you could dramatically improve the heat transfer without ever running into what I call the "cht wall" where the unmelted filament reaches the splitter.
Yes, that's an interesting thought. But that comes also with a very drastic and sudden change in melt velocity. (Twice actually). I have no idea how much trouble this is going to cause...
@@Roetz40 Everything is so laminar regardless of surface finish that there's no issue with speed fluctuations in the melt pool. Also, if you *are* concerned with that, simply make the narrower slots deeper to maintain cross-sectional area.
Damn... I can barely find things to watch to keep my attention but I was mesmerized for this whole 77 minutes. Even at 1x speed. You have a delightful balance of masochism and intelligence to the effect of "I'm going to bang my head so hard and repeatedly against this problem that it simply will be solved, it is only a matter of time." This was the first video of yours I've watched, and it wasn't until the end when I saw your build stage that I recognized I would be unwise to bet against you printing a benchy in under a minute.
So happy to see Martin and the guys at Bontech hooking you up with the best extruders out there. I have known Martin for many years. He's always done a lot to help people in more demanding applications. And as you said... if yours isn't a demanding application, whose is 🙂
what i dont get with direct extruders is why use contact wheels when you could get a better grip over a longer area using a track/belt system to grip the filament from both sides would give huge friction without damaging the filament any way super impressive work. i think you have a solid theory on surface melt look forward to see the results. thanks
Ooooooh so excited for a NeedItMakeIt collab of some kind! Love Mike's videos. It's crazy to watch the extruding filament shake when a motor skips! Pressure must be huge. Super glad you are sticking with this and I loved the long detailed video. Keep at it!
Hello Jan, love your content 👍🏻 A little "off topic" but is it possible to do a test mixing the filament with this model and create different colors (RGB) while printing? Very curious about this.... And could be a gamechanger...🤓🍻
This exceeded my expectations! I love how you're making the impossible possible step by step I was also thinking it would be amazing to be able to lap the channels via *abrasive* *flow* *machining* Can be done with a hydraulic press. looking forwards to the print!
31:40 thought question about the surface finish - cant wait to see the results. One hand hand, having a rough surface increases surface area, yet maybe less contact area for un-molten filament. On the other hand I see nothing wrong with your approach and argument either.
with 17 grams of moving mass, do you anticipate having to dynamically adjust the speed/accel as the build plate gets nearly 50% heavier as the benchy is deposited? This is such a rad project. Those spools are ZOOOOOMIN!!
Nozzles should be designed with a bevel on the end to match a bevel on the hot end, similar to a swagelok fitting that can handle 20,000+ psi without leaking.
Theoretisch könnte sich das Fielament beim Polierten Port den leichtesten Weg ja aussuchen. Die harte Seele muss bei der groben Oberfläche aber an der gerade so plastifizierten Randschicht gleiten was am Ende ja mehr Reibung bedeuten würde. Stick Slip gibt es ja eher bei festen Gleitflächen. Bei Zähflüssigen Flüssigkeiten spielt eher Wandreibung eine Rolle in der die Flüssigkeit am Rand fast "steht" und zur Leitungsmitte dann an Geschwindigkeit zunimmt. Damit wäre eine schnelle Plastifizierung Key...aber das ist mit diesem Juwel kein Problem bzw kaum zu verbessern... Respekt für die Konstruktion und Fertigung! Am Ende denke ich macht es aber warscheinlich keinen merkbaren Unterschied ob Poliert oder Sandgestrahlt.
Ich würde tippen, dass die rauhe Oberfläche turbulenten Fluss ermöglicht. Das würde eine bessere Durchmischung des Filaments und schnellere Erhitzung begünstigen. Fluiddynamik ist jetzt nicht mein Gebiet, kann daher auch falsch liegen.
Have you thought about using warm-hot filament spools to reduce the amount of energy needed to melt it once it gets to the hotend? Maybe a silicone sock as well.
Regarding the heat drop problem, would it be possible to have multiple sensors at multiple locations, averaging them or using the lowest, median or what works best?
Concerning the air cooling system since you plan to have a limited flow with pressurized air it could be interesting to have a conical nozzle with the outlet being thinner than the body. This should force the air to se a large variation of pressure when exiting the nozzle and loosing a few degrees at the same time. With conical nozzles, the change in pressure takes place mostly when entering the nozzle (at the bottleneck) and the air may heat up again in contact of the nozzle. It may not worth the pain of finding/making conical nozzles though...
Would "preheating" the filament before the extruder help at all? To 50*c or so, below the glass transition temp. Could probably do this with heated spool containers and the PTFE tube running all the way to them, maybe with an insulating layer around it. Bonus is it would help dry the filament out too.
I love this project so much, is is so innovative compared to the usual route to getting a fast benchy. I am now building my second custom printer to print fast thanks to you
Have you looked into more detailed heater control in klipper? It looks like you have a couple of heaters in the big block, that you just control as one in the context of a bed heater. Klipper should be able to control a bunch of separate heaters, you could set them up all separately. You would need to drill a separate hole for each heater and install a thermocouple. In clipper you could then set them up as extruders oder other types of heaters. In the slicer you would just add a couple of commands to set them to the correct temperature.
Love everything you are doing. That said.. you asked for feedback on finishing.. and I think the polishing is a mistake for two reasons … 1) I don’t think you want the outside or any part of the filament being left behind and staying in the hotend hot for any longer than necessary lest the plastic start to break down by heat. It would be better for everything to be pushed through by the filament behind it so you have total turnover of the filament in there.. 2) I think it’s not crazy to assume you might want to clean out the extruder without disassembling it.. and the rough surface will make any cleaning procedure pretty hard. Minor points.. but love what you are doing in general and am watching everything with great interest.
What about using the 3mm filament instead, that way you only have to use 2 spools maybe. Or some sort of pellet system that could feed massive amounts of plastic. Although that maybe more complicated.
Ideally you have an additional input in your control loop function: The reported flow rate. This way you can have a dependence of the heating power on the expected flow. Something like f(Td, Dm), where Td is the temperature difference (target - measured) and Dm (is the expected flow, as reported by the control software). I am not entirely sure if you can simply use two or 3 PID loops, depending if the two variables are independent: 2 if they are, otherwise 3 (upper tri-diagonal matrix). You would basically build an estimator of the expected temperature, given two inputs. If you want to go full banana, this could easily be done with machine learning but I'd personally prefer classic control theory. The devil obviously lies in the detail: tuning 3 PIDs might be difficult.
Just before you said “I’m not a native speaker”, I was thinking about how well you were explaining your reasons for the differences in finishes along the path of the filament!
Great work, very impressive design. Why do you split the filament to increase the area that makes contact with filament? The centre is harder. Wouldn’t it be better to make the channel wider but not as deep to increase the contact area? Also, is copper the best material in terms of surface erosion over time, especially at the high temperatures you want to reach. I suppose the exposed parts can be plated if necessary.
Ich möchte hier mal deine Lesezeichenleiste erwähnen. Nicht das ich neugierig wäre aber als mir 3D Pimmel aufgefallen ist musste ich erstmal lachen 😂. Trotz allem hat mich alles umgehauen wie viel arbeit du in allem gesteckt hast und was dabei heraus kam. Klasse Video 💪🏻
Nice project. However, it's not about pushing force, what's important is that you get the plastic to temperature quickly. The steppers skipping steps is because it's trying to push unmelted plastic. You can see it's getting too cold when the extruded plastic expands and looks like sausage. But I like your attitude. Just trying stuff no one else tried before. Way to go. Viele Grüße
Ich denke mir mal, da deine Software in deutsch war, dass du deutsch sprichst. Da dein Heizblock sehr groß und aus Kupfer ist, wird er auch nach außen viel Wärme abstrahlen. Hast du schon mal darübernachgedacht den Kupferkörper außen zu isolieren? Wegen der Temperatur würde ich dir Keramikfasermaterial aus dem Industrieofenbau empfehlen. Das Zeug hat hervorragende Isolationseigenschaften bei Temperaturen bis über 1000°C.
Borrow a thermal camera and record your hot end running. I bet you’ll be able to see the flow dynamics - that copper isn’t that thick, and modern $200 thermal cameras pickup really small temperature changes.
This loocs really cool, but I can see one big hurble for you to overcome s soon as you really wont to go for a even remotely dimensionally akurat print. In your designe the diameter is really high just befor the nosel itself end has ohnly a vary short section of you 0.5mm diameter. This leads to a springback of the jst extruded material (this normally also happens with more normel printspeeds), In your case this seams to be pshed to the extream (like most other things of the designe). It locks to me that you would need a less steep transition from full diateter to final nozel.
:) would look dope on your machine! But trust me, you don't want a single printer with 16 spools of filament going in. Speaking of experience here... :P
Anyone got a good name for the hotend? Post them as a reply here! 🎉
Bob
Therminator
The Beast
Peacock
ShelterSmelter
This is exactly the kind of ridiculous, non sensicle, unreasonable over engineering that inspires so many people to innovate and make awesome things. Please keep doing this!
I love this project!! Looking so forward to the day of an actual run.
About the temperature control loop:
Danger Klipper has MPC as an option other than PID, which works just like how you described.
Crazy idea for a crazy project: have you considered direct heating the block by shorting say 200a through the block at low voltage? Might be possible to control heating location by mapping resistance and should be very responsive.
I was thinking the same, It would be epic.
Surely somebody has tried using metal filled filament as the heating resistor by now right??!
ok, lets face it, we have reached a pooint where ii have to write it, please load RGB colors and create a code that does mix different amounts for different colors....
Yes excellent idea. RGBW
Selectable colors and for highest flow rate it enters poop mode, when the filament comes out much faster and is brown 💩
Wouldn't it need to be YMCK color?
The pigments don’t mix well. You would just end up with a print that looks like different colors depending upon the direction you view the part from.
@@jimmyaveragetoes pretty sure you can create a mixing chamber for the 4 extruders
@@SuperPhilopeCMYKW
29:00 a random thought to a:b test it - bead blast 2 channels different amounts, leave one normal, polish one - then load different colours in each. Run 4 colours of filament, with the motors at their absolute peak (skipping); then do a cross section analysis of what comes out to see if they have different quantities.
Brahma is a god with four heads, believed to have originated from the four Vedas. The name for the hot end
You should definitely keep the name for the second heating stage sub assembly "Just the tip" (and the cooling assembly "Only from behind").
(But we shouldn't get ahead of ourselves before we draw any cockclusions. SCNR)
Not sure how well it'd work for the larger section but to polish some of my copper hotend parts I use a piece of TPU filament mounted in a rotary tool with a little compound. Of course that'd only work with both sides together. It's slow but moving up and down the path worked amazingly well.
This is such a cool project. I have no idea if it'll actually work but I give you badassery score of 10.
and no benchys. ive been bamboozled.
I thought the same, but the title says that "he could print" not that he printed it.
Bambu-zeld? 😂
@markfen88 I knew it wasn't coming, so I just went to the end to make sure before I hoped for 27 min.
I think if you just tapered the 2mm holes into 1mm wide slots before joining you could dramatically improve the heat transfer without ever running into what I call the "cht wall" where the unmelted filament reaches the splitter.
Yes, that's an interesting thought. But that comes also with a very drastic and sudden change in melt velocity. (Twice actually). I have no idea how much trouble this is going to cause...
@@Roetz40 Everything is so laminar regardless of surface finish that there's no issue with speed fluctuations in the melt pool. Also, if you *are* concerned with that, simply make the narrower slots deeper to maintain cross-sectional area.
This slot design is used in the Nanoflow tungsten carbide nozzle.
Next step: Input shaping for Hotend heater
I see a LOT of moisture in that filament. All the bubbling out the hotend, especially around 1:09:40
Its perfect to make an art deco style 3D Printer! :D
Damn... I can barely find things to watch to keep my attention but I was mesmerized for this whole 77 minutes. Even at 1x speed. You have a delightful balance of masochism and intelligence to the effect of "I'm going to bang my head so hard and repeatedly against this problem that it simply will be solved, it is only a matter of time."
This was the first video of yours I've watched, and it wasn't until the end when I saw your build stage that I recognized I would be unwise to bet against you printing a benchy in under a minute.
So happy to see Martin and the guys at Bontech hooking you up with the best extruders out there. I have known Martin for many years. He's always done a lot to help people in more demanding applications. And as you said... if yours isn't a demanding application, whose is 🙂
46:56 “…this is pretty much a complete unit.” One may even say it’s an Absolute Unit 😂😂😂
I love this idea for the name!
what i dont get with direct extruders is why use contact wheels when you could get a better grip over a longer area using a track/belt system to grip the filament from both sides would give huge friction without damaging the filament any way super impressive work. i think you have a solid theory on surface melt look forward to see the results. thanks
Ooooooh so excited for a NeedItMakeIt collab of some kind! Love Mike's videos.
It's crazy to watch the extruding filament shake when a motor skips! Pressure must be huge.
Super glad you are sticking with this and I loved the long detailed video. Keep at it!
Hello Jan, love your content 👍🏻
A little "off topic" but is it possible to do a test mixing the filament with this model and create different colors (RGB) while printing?
Very curious about this.... And could be a gamechanger...🤓🍻
I don't plan on going RGB or anything but we will definitely get some color going on in the next prints. ;)
Possible to feed RGBW or RGBK filaments with different flow rate to mix out all colors?
I don't see why not! I would be interested in just seeing what it would look like with 4 colors all at once! :)
Good idea, the correct colors would be CMYK
Would you be able to do CMYK color mixing with this if you had some sort of "rifling" in the final combined path?
Wouldn't you also need a 'base' white color? CMYK also depends on mixing with white, but yeah at least in theory this could work
This exceeded my expectations! I love how you're making the impossible possible step by step
I was also thinking it would be amazing to be able to lap the channels via *abrasive* *flow* *machining*
Can be done with a hydraulic press.
looking forwards to the print!
31:40 thought question about the surface finish - cant wait to see the results. One hand hand, having a rough surface increases surface area, yet maybe less contact area for un-molten filament. On the other hand I see nothing wrong with your approach and argument either.
with 17 grams of moving mass, do you anticipate having to dynamically adjust the speed/accel as the build plate gets nearly 50% heavier as the benchy is deposited? This is such a rad project. Those spools are ZOOOOOMIN!!
Nozzles should be designed with a bevel on the end to match a bevel on the hot end, similar to a swagelok fitting that can handle 20,000+ psi without leaking.
Theoretisch könnte sich das Fielament beim Polierten Port den leichtesten Weg ja aussuchen. Die harte Seele muss bei der groben Oberfläche aber an der gerade so plastifizierten Randschicht gleiten was am Ende ja mehr Reibung bedeuten würde.
Stick Slip gibt es ja eher bei festen Gleitflächen. Bei Zähflüssigen Flüssigkeiten spielt eher Wandreibung eine Rolle in der die Flüssigkeit am Rand fast "steht" und zur Leitungsmitte dann an Geschwindigkeit zunimmt.
Damit wäre eine schnelle Plastifizierung Key...aber das ist mit diesem Juwel kein Problem bzw kaum zu verbessern... Respekt für die Konstruktion und Fertigung!
Am Ende denke ich macht es aber warscheinlich keinen merkbaren Unterschied ob Poliert oder Sandgestrahlt.
Ich würde tippen, dass die rauhe Oberfläche turbulenten Fluss ermöglicht. Das würde eine bessere Durchmischung des Filaments und schnellere Erhitzung begünstigen. Fluiddynamik ist jetzt nicht mein Gebiet, kann daher auch falsch liegen.
Have you thought about using warm-hot filament spools to reduce the amount of energy needed to melt it once it gets to the hotend? Maybe a silicone sock as well.
Need to tune those retraction settings! :P
This extruder looks straight out of injection molding machine. I wonder what kind of pressure it can make
Regarding the heat drop problem, would it be possible to have multiple sensors at multiple locations, averaging them or using the lowest, median or what works best?
10g extrusion in 60seconds. Fast and the Furious popped into mind. Going to need some overnight parts from Japan.😂
Nope. In 30 secs. That's more like topgun on speed.
Well done, no leaks!!’
Don’t group the ptfe tubes together that the top, you’re adding resistance
All I could think of at the 41:05-mark is, that's an LGX Hydra taking form.
Concerning the air cooling system since you plan to have a limited flow with pressurized air it could be interesting to have a conical nozzle with the outlet being thinner than the body. This should force the air to se a large variation of pressure when exiting the nozzle and loosing a few degrees at the same time. With conical nozzles, the change in pressure takes place mostly when entering the nozzle (at the bottleneck) and the air may heat up again in contact of the nozzle. It may not worth the pain of finding/making conical nozzles though...
Would "preheating" the filament before the extruder help at all? To 50*c or so, below the glass transition temp.
Could probably do this with heated spool containers and the PTFE tube running all the way to them, maybe with an insulating layer around it. Bonus is it would help dry the filament out too.
I love this project so much, is is so innovative compared to the usual route to getting a fast benchy. I am now building my second custom printer to print fast thanks to you
Have you looked into more detailed heater control in klipper? It looks like you have a couple of heaters in the big block, that you just control as one in the context of a bed heater. Klipper should be able to control a bunch of separate heaters, you could set them up all separately. You would need to drill a separate hole for each heater and install a thermocouple. In clipper you could then set them up as extruders oder other types of heaters. In the slicer you would just add a couple of commands to set them to the correct temperature.
Das ist genau der Scheiss', auf den ich Bock hab'!
This hotend looks TOTALLY EPIC!!!
You can use it for injection molding too :D
That's what I was thinking. 🤣
Love everything you are doing. That said.. you asked for feedback on finishing.. and I think the polishing is a mistake for two reasons … 1) I don’t think you want the outside or any part of the filament being left behind and staying in the hotend hot for any longer than necessary lest the plastic start to break down by heat. It would be better for everything to be pushed through by the filament behind it so you have total turnover of the filament in there.. 2) I think it’s not crazy to assume you might want to clean out the extruder without disassembling it.. and the rough surface will make any cleaning procedure pretty hard.
Minor points.. but love what you are doing in general and am watching everything with great interest.
Spectacular work! Seeing melted filament blasting out like a firehose is wild!
Love it!! Will die swell not be a Problem to get a precise benchy shape?
We'll see. If it's becoming a problem we have to find a sweet spot between back pressure and a longer nozzle zone. ;)
@ looking forward to it! :)
What about using the 3mm filament instead, that way you only have to use 2 spools maybe. Or some sort of pellet system that could feed massive amounts of plastic. Although that maybe more complicated.
Ideally you have an additional input in your control loop function: The reported flow rate. This way you can have a dependence of the heating power on the expected flow.
Something like f(Td, Dm), where Td is the temperature difference (target - measured) and Dm (is the expected flow, as reported by the control software).
I am not entirely sure if you can simply use two or 3 PID loops, depending if the two variables are independent: 2 if they are, otherwise 3 (upper tri-diagonal matrix). You would basically build an estimator of the expected temperature, given two inputs. If you want to go full banana, this could easily be done with machine learning but I'd personally prefer classic control theory. The devil obviously lies in the detail: tuning 3 PIDs might be difficult.
BTW the extruder hotend combo now looks like a mega weapon from a mecha anime and the color of the block after heating is phenomenal.
Just before you said “I’m not a native speaker”, I was thinking about how well you were explaining your reasons for the differences in finishes along the path of the filament!
10/10 if it looks good it performs good
I would say even 20/20!
Looks and performs... GOOD? 😂😂😂
Ah, The Bulldog. Now I understand...
Great work, very impressive design. Why do you split the filament to increase the area that makes contact with filament? The centre is harder. Wouldn’t it be better to make the channel wider but not as deep to increase the contact area? Also, is copper the best material in terms of surface erosion over time, especially at the high temperatures you want to reach. I suppose the exposed parts can be plated if necessary.
I heard yesterday that there is a conductive filament. I wonder if you could heat it by running a current through it?
This is the stuff man.
That is absolutely wild. Impressive work. Congratulations. ❤
LOL... Thats insane. Part cooling will be an issue so looking forward to that chapter.
Ich möchte hier mal deine Lesezeichenleiste erwähnen. Nicht das ich neugierig wäre aber als mir 3D Pimmel aufgefallen ist musste ich erstmal lachen 😂.
Trotz allem hat mich alles umgehauen wie viel arbeit du in allem gesteckt hast und was dabei heraus kam.
Klasse Video 💪🏻
Great video! It felt like 30 minutes. Can't fault a single thing. Waiting for the next video! Keep them long.
Nice project.
However, it's not about pushing force, what's important is that you get the plastic to temperature quickly.
The steppers skipping steps is because it's trying to push unmelted plastic.
You can see it's getting too cold when the extruded plastic expands and looks like sausage.
But I like your attitude. Just trying stuff no one else tried before.
Way to go.
Viele Grüße
Would love to see what happens when you have two or four different color filaments loaded… if it’s laminar you might get really cool effects
Is that fumes or steam coming off the extruded filament?
Asking because the filament seems to expand at the high flow.
What motion system will it take to throw that weight around to match that flow rate?
Forcing paste through the journals would give you a proper polish.
Would you get any benefits if you cool the shop air
29:37 I've heard there are some nozzles which have an anti-stick coating
this is amazing ... well done mate
one way to visualize the laminarity would be to put 4 different colors in there
You can maybe use leather for the copper polish
if it doesn't work as a 3d printer, I'm sure it would work well for injection molding.
It is an absolute monstrosity, I love it.
What I don't understand is... Will the layers even adhere if it's that fast?
What you should be doing with it? You should definitely polish the front to a mirror 🤩
42:15 looks like some crazy motorcycle W engine configuration lol
Possible to Diamond coat the inner pipes?
Ich denke mir mal, da deine Software in deutsch war, dass du deutsch sprichst. Da dein Heizblock sehr groß und aus Kupfer ist, wird er auch nach außen viel Wärme abstrahlen. Hast du schon mal darübernachgedacht den Kupferkörper außen zu isolieren? Wegen der Temperatur würde ich dir Keramikfasermaterial aus dem Industrieofenbau empfehlen. Das Zeug hat hervorragende Isolationseigenschaften bei Temperaturen bis über 1000°C.
use klipper danger , has another option thats not pid and has filament density option
I noticed the plate that said The Bulldog on it. Is that a plate from a bar?
Isolation on the big bloc?
Why don't you try ABS filament?
It has a better thermal conductivity
That's nuts! No seriously, look at all those nuts.
oh and for a name its Frankenstruder cause that monster is built up from so many different parts :)
Borrow a thermal camera and record your hot end running. I bet you’ll be able to see the flow dynamics - that copper isn’t that thick, and modern $200 thermal cameras pickup really small temperature changes.
awesome stuff
Let’s gooo!!! 75 min of content hell yeah!!
21:47 what was the reason why a CHT nozzle is a bad idea? You never answered that question and I am very curious as to why.
Servus Jan! Welche CAM Software benutzt du? Sieht aus wie etwas von Autodesk
1:04:24 what are you looking at on Etsy?
Subbed based on title lmaoo
At this point a water jet, underwater or cooled air would prob be better for cooling.
Würde ein größerer Filament Durchmesser (zB. 2,85) mit solch einem Setup mehr Flow verursachen?
Love the Bulldog tray to catch filament and the scale... Dont build anything with this, please...
25:55 Tiny quibble. What you have is a hypothesis, not a theory.
i would probably dosnt do anything for finishing because im lazy
This loocs really cool, but I can see one big hurble for you to overcome s soon as you really wont to go for a even remotely dimensionally akurat print.
In your designe the diameter is really high just befor the nosel itself end has ohnly a vary short section of you 0.5mm diameter. This leads to a springback of the jst extruded material (this normally also happens with more normel printspeeds), In your case this seams to be pshed to the extream (like most other things of the designe).
It locks to me that you would need a less steep transition from full diateter to final nozel.
but isnt that a good thing if its consistent? you have basicly a bigger nozzle while beeing in the rulls
use thermal paste for the hotendheater
Looks good, I’ll take 4 😀
:) would look dope on your machine!
But trust me, you don't want a single printer with 16 spools of filament going in. Speaking of experience here... :P
you'd need 5, one more to connect the 4 together
Immediately subscribed lol
Respekt was du da machst richtig geil aber kontrollier mal die Druckspeicherblase deiner Maschine , wird leer sein =D
Richtig ;) Baustelle 2169
@Roetz40 kann man bei einer netten Lkw Werkstatt aufüllen lassen
Sieht eher aus wie ein W4 Mopedmotor :D
5:30 be careful of using that splitting method, it's under a patent in US
I'm not in the US and I don't intend on making any money out of this. I don't care for parents in that regard. But thanks for mentioning ;)