Fujifilm XH2S Not a PROFESSIONAL Camera For Commercial Work?
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- Опубліковано 29 вер 2024
- Of course. Just have a little less leeway.
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I have used a variety of the aps-c fujis for my professional work for 2 years now. Now with the XH2s as my main camera. I do plenty of simple video projects and it’s outstanding for that. As for photo projects I have also experienced it as inconsistent and often times muddy when trying to recover the high iso tone. But when I hit a great composition in good lighting it is fantastic! Problem as a pro photographer in spontaneous environments we need something that can handle it all. Everyone shoots different projects though and we all need to remind ourselves that. A little challenge and problem solving is good for humans but we need a balance of work priority and pleasure priority. Great case study experience here!
Just pinned your comment. You summed it up perfectly. The XH2S is beautiful with video. Oddly consistent and reliable. But yeah photo wise.. anyone who’s shot full frame or medium format will see in those moments when a the creative director throws a last minute shot as the last bit of daylight is retreating.. your camera starts to matter haha. Or when they throw a last minute interior location on you and there’s no time to setup a full light setup…. Your camera starts to matter. The examples go on and on haha.
@@cammackey those are the exact scenarios that challenge me/give me headaches but keep me so passionate in the photo biz! I’ve had great success in my 2 years with aps-c Fujis. Certainly have learned a ton to say the least. Coming up on the new year I have been looking to invest in the GFX line for those highlighted challenging reasons. I don’t want to leave the fun, rewarding and tactile ecosystem of Fuji so it makes sense to me to check out the other cool side of Fuji. I’ve been wondering if one of the older GFX 50 s or r might be good for me. Going to be renting for some shoots I have coming up.
@@mattbergh9274 yeah same, I thrive off those moments haha. That’s when creativity and experience truly comes into play. The GFX files are insane. The best noise performance and dynamic range I’ve seen and I’ve pretty much have used every brands high MP camera. They’re just a little sluggish in comparison so you have to use it differently. Slows you down in a hood and bad way.
That comment makes so much sense. After months of reviewing cameras and what I need etc etc etc it seems as if everyone’s needs are different. Some systems work better than others but like you said dependent on what work you do it’s about problem solving. This video motivated the hell out of me to be a student of the game and stop worrying too much about the best and latest specs. Thank you for these videos I appreciate the time and work put into them.
@@Searchingk9 hey it’s community man! Appreciate ya!!! Keep us updated!
I was using X-T1 for proffesional work .. heck .. I was using Canon 10D for that! So I guess you can use any gear you want 😇
Yes you can...I have shot for ELLE, VOGUE, GRAZIA, etc using my X-T3's, XT4's and X-H2's as well as my GFX cameras as well. About 60% were the XT's over the last few years.
I was a sony a7iv shooter, bought gfx 50sii then sold it because of speed. Don’t like 100 series because of file size. But I loved fuji now thinking if i can buy a xh2s but confused because of the iso and dr performance because on almost every day light shoot needs iso performance at the end of the day.
He didn't say you couldn't. Maybe watch the video again?
@@tamal0167it depends on the work you’re doing and the tolerance you have and how you edit. The is why resources such dp review are important just for the raw examples on there own, you can download them and play and see if the files work for you. Such a shame theyre going/gone.
Full frame has limitations too and he’s making sound like it’s the nuts. Your maybe loosing a stop to the heavy hitters and maybe a 1/4 stop to full frame from 5 years and bad madden sensors sorry canon your not really that good,1600iso might be the usable limit for those cameras. 10,000iso on a gfx I think there’s a little bit of a twist to the truth there. In my experience those sensors don’t hold up well to strong edits at all at high iso, 3200 is about as far as I’d take them on shoots and even then the edit need to be gentle.
What really saves cameras like the gfx is the shear resolution you can downsample/shrink the image from a 100mp to 50mp and the noise becomes a none issue and you still have a massive file. That my experience with shooting them.
@@gaza4543 As a professional I would say it boils down to the support you have around the camera if your are only shooting with natural light and not using lighting or you don't have fast glass that's coated you will see some noise. Every camera has a limitation. As. professional you should know how to deal with that and still deliver good work.
From the video, “I don’t care what anyone says, you can use crop sensor for professional work.”
This was by far the best simple explanation about crop sensor in actual use vs medium and full frame. A lot of people even my friend who is a sony ambassador just gave an explanation about Full frame is better and that's the end of story.
Totally agree Cam. I use the Xpro3 for most of my commercial jobs. But when I know the final image use case is going to push the files, I rent the GFX and have the same workflow that I'm used to with the aspc. Just with a lot more latitude and cropping space. Best of both world I think. I get the "fun" with a camera I'm very comfortable using with xpro3 and the ultimate image quality when the client needs it. But the "look" is the same and I'm consistent across my shooting style. The Broncolor Siros Ls I bought this year were the best investment by far though and really are a step up from the godox I was using. They definitely bring out the best image quality in the Xpro3 possible.
Man I am excited for the future of the GFX. I’m sure whatever camera they bring next will be faster
Where do you rent your gfx from?
Full frame is certainly cleaner. I'm impressed with my Lumix s5
Yeah agreed. It’s hard cause while I wanna say sensor size doesn’t matter.. at times it does when it comes to a certain level of production and execution.
Interesting video 👍 your correct about using full frame in low light conditions without flash is always a no brainer but when I do use Fuji crop I use flash to compensate
Absolutely
I know they’re apple and oranges but I’m torn between the Nikon z8 and Fuji XH2S…😊 Mainly for event work and photojournalism. Thoughts?
Both the Z8 and the XH2-S give 350 shots per charge of their battery, the Z8 with it's battery-grip is heavier than the Z9, plus the battery-grip for the Z8 is a poor fit. Whereas the battery-grip for the XH2-S is better and weighs 250g less than the Z9 and Z8, and it's smaller with a battery-grip than the Z8 and Z9.
Great :) Thanks
I love your videos, reviews and especially your attitude, yes, you can shoot professional photography almost with anything, if you know what limitations you equvipment have
So true and such an important message.
If you have the light these super 35 sensors are totally capable. 20+ megapixels is a shit load of information to work with but you gotta know your gear. Good video man.
Yup exactly. Like sure I could use it and make it happen… but rather just have as much quality as I can get. Specially when a client is paying 5 figures.
I‘ve noticed that the apsc cameras from fuji have issues focusing even in AF-S single point. If you refocus multiple times on the same subject you will see focus jumping around quite a lot leading to often defocused, soft images. Noticed it with the X-T4 and Pro 3 and more wide angle lenses. People don‘t seem to notice it that much but for professional work that‘s unacceptable.
X-T1 and GFX with contrast detect AF don‘t show such behavior.
Curious to see if the new H2 does better.
The xh2 and XH2S are pretty much on par with canon and Sony now in my opinion. Specially with their latest primes
@@cammackey AF-S shouldn‘t be a problem for any modern camera. Kinda funny that fuji has to deal with such issues and the vast majority of users does not even notice.
@@miljo2146 I personally haven’t experienced that
@@cammackey try it out bro, x-pro3, 35mm FF equivalent lens. Activate the focusing scale and focus somewhere about 20 ft away and keep refocusing while keeping an eye on the scale. It will jump around enough to screw up perfect focus leaving you with blurry images. Same thing with the x-t4.
I don't understand, for the same dof you have half the iso on the apsc compared to ff.
Are you saying that you still get a cleaner file on ff even with double the iso?
what about the Sony a7iv its very noise unless shooting in bright day light. any thoughts in comparison with this xh2s?
I never used that camera. I owned the A7R4 and wasn’t a fan
Im using FF..im professional now?😅
😂😂😂😂
It isnt a low light camera
the lens was bad
So True! Your absolutely right. Im loving my XH2s but its got some limitations and for my pro portrait and wedding work I strictly stay under 1600 iso. if I have to use some fill flash when im confronted with a dark environment then i try bouncing it or placing it off camera and it mostly works great. Full frame is better in low light no doubt, my previous camera R6 did a great job but to be honest I prefer the skin tones and color coming off the Fuji, no perfect camera everything is a comprise.
Amateur hour shooting with no light modification.
by far the coolest guy in the field. witty presence and valuable content. don't even want a xh2s. just here for the ride
Cam how do you feel about older full frame sensors (e.g. a 5D III) vs the current generation of crop sensors? Do those old sensors still have an edge?
I don't photograph for a living, but I direct solely and having an xh2s (or any fuji really) on me on set or when I'm traveling is just a better feeling. It doesn't feel like a computer with a lens attached, it feels like a tool to make ~ a r t ~ with . I will say though, I used it to shoot a video project abroad and it's honestly a stellar little pocket cine cam. anyway, love the content Cam
Do you think an xh-2 would have help better in this scenario with the possibility to scale those 40mpxs down to 26 to reduce the noise?
Nope. The XH2 and XH2S image quality is almost identical. The XH2 just allows you to punch in more on crops before it starts to blur. But sharpness and everything is very simialr mar
100% agree with your assessment. I LOVE my X H2s but the R6 wins hands down in low light and the situations you just described.
I have the R6, adding a XH2 to the bag is on my radar. Have you adapted any of your Canon lenses to it? I don’t want to go crazy with 2 full systems, maybe 2-3 lenses for the fuji for personal projects.
@@MichaelFrederickPhoto Yes. Using the Fringer EF-FX Pro ii. Paired with my Sigma Art 85mm f1.4 and Canon 70-200 ii f2.8. Works fantastic. Basically turns my 85mm EF into approx 127mm lens with the 1.5 crop factor. Photos are tack sharp even wide open at f1.4 with the adapter. I used Canon lenses on Sony A7R iv and they worked great there as well with the Sigma MC11 adapter. I love these modern mirrorless cameras where focus happens on the sensor so the adpaters work really well. Eye af and tracking work very well too.
Awesome to hear. I have the Sigma 40 & 105, the 40mm being a 60mm FOV could be a great street lens. The Sigma 50-100 (and 18-35) could be the 2 zooms I go with and the 56mm 1.2 WR as the native prime.
I was going to ditch all my FF sonys, started to do so but then decided to keep an A9ll and a few primes and then fill the prime gaps with Fuji and the XH2s. covered for all eventualities now (I Hope) FF and APS-c debate is age-old and those that say there is no difference just haven't experienced it or had a shoot go to S_ _ T using a crop sensor and then spent days fixing in post
You are talking about ISO 800 to be the maximum you can push up? Come on! Even my old Nikon D500 goes to ISO 4000 without any trouble. After ISO 4000, yes, I fell the ISO starts to feel the high numbers coming to the maximum, but a new camera within the ISO 800 range can't be bad. Simply can't. It must be a serious problem with your camera.
Even as a Fuji lover its like he said - its all about lighting. Quality AND quantity. If that barn was pretty dim and he was underexposed 1-2 stops it is not completely unrealistic that ISO 800 would produce that sort of look, unfortunately (but also NR settings and DR settings would matter there). Still I'd have liked to see him have tried the shot at ISO 1600/3200 as well, since it may have recovered somewhat better if he was still underexposed at that ISO (whether for the scene or the subject). Other examples also would also have been welcome.
accommodate
i agree with you dude, when there's plenty of light, any camera will look good.. iphone, m43, apsc, FF, MF.
True. Tho I would never use an iPhone for a commercial brand lol
This is a good message and you could probably replace “professional photographer” with “professional” anything and the same concept still applies. You can give me a truck full of tools but that doesn’t mean I can build you a house.
I've started noticing that muddiness more and more often with my Fujifilm APS-C, and this is sometimes as you know, part and parcel of some commercial shoots where you just don't have time or resources to spend time lighting, as much as I would like to.
Good Points I have the X-H2s but as I mostly shoot Video I never thought about these things. The only Point I do not understand is the low light / deth of field one. A crop sensor camera will actually have more depth of field compared to a Full frame one. If you have a f2 lens on a APS-C camera, that is an equvalent look to f2.8 on FF. So to compensate you need to push your ISO by one Stop on FF, at which point you are supposed to have the same amount of noise in case that the sensors are from a similar generation....
The light gathering quality of a certain f-stop is the same regardless of sensor size. f2 on APSC looks like f3 on FF at equivalent focal length, but f2 light gathering on APSC is the same as f2 on FF.
I use the x pro 1 for professional work omg i freaking love that camera
Perfect and I really appreciate your point of view and really answers my main question low light and iso 😊
I purchased an xpro2 with three prime lenses last summer from a local camera store just to start out. I just loved backpacking and traveling with my little camera, but when I tried to learn more about photography, I stumbled upon the somewhat toxic youtube camera community. Ever since I have had the urge to buy better gear, but this video made me realize that I have to learn the ins and outs of my xpro2 and find my look before putting more money into gear. I'll probably upgrade to a GFX at some point though. Thank you Cam for this rude awakening! Love your content.
Man it makes me happy to read comments like this. You picked up what I was putting down!
I wanna ask the xh2 is good cam for portrait photography???
Yeah it’s great, full frame will give you cleaner images tho
Can agree. My XH2S has been my most shot camera and the limitation of lowlight has been something I always need to keep in mind. At least in photos. Video I’ve been okay pushing to 6400 iso. But for photos after 1600 I have to be more careful.
That being said, I bought into the system for the smaller lenses and for hiking and travel. L
"There's a lot of things that make you a professional, and it's not the camera"......YES, THIS. This right here ladies and gents. I have used crop cameras for pro level work for years and never thought about it, and so have my friends in the business. You don't always need a better camera. You just need to take better shots.
I am a wedding photographer and I want to upgrade my gear (still shooting on a Canon 5D mark ii). I was going to go with the Fuji xh2s but your comment on the low light situation is making me think about it, because this is the main reason I want to upgrade 🙈
I mean with weddings you can shoot wide open. So as long as you get fujis faster primes you’ll be good
Grab the two viltrox pros and the Fuji 50mm 1.0 and low light is a non issue.
I’ve a GFX 100S. Do you see the XH2S as complementary? Are there situations where you prefer the XH2S over the GFX? Thanks. Maybe a good topic for a video…
The XH2S is almost as fast in use as full frame canons and Sony. Great face and eye tracking. But it’s no where close in quality to the gfx sadly.
Quick question. Why would the clothes be soft with crop sensor. Surely there would be a greater depth of field at similar aperture compared to full frame.
Beautiful portrait! Please, are you use some film simulation recipe for this portraits? Thanks. 🙏🏻
You nailed it! With enough light any camera can look good.
I’ve noticed the same thing with Fujifilm cameras. If you can feed them enough light they look beautiful but they struggle in low light…especially when pushing the files. Well done!
DXO PureRaw is amazing for denoising raw files. You can dump a raw file into it and it will spit out a de noised DNG you can import into Capture One. Works way better than the Topaz joke everyone seems to always fall for.
Yeah I use topaz for emergencies, not trying to use that every time tho. It’s not the same as just getting a clean file off the bat too sadly
@@cammackey Try DXO PureRaw 2. It's great and it's got a 30 day free trial. Topaz is a joke. Every time I've tried it it makes the files worse.
@@NickDelDuca I’ll check it out next time I need a lifesaver haha. I think I’ve heard of it before
“your camera doesn’t make you a professional” biggest takeaway here. it’s your look and finished results. well put
Sorry brother you’re making it sound like full frame/ medium format are the nuts for low light. In my experience that’s for from the truth. You’re maybe getting a 1/2stop more headroom from a good full frame sensors on a good day and in my experience funny enough medium format Fujis are around the same. Which I rent out from time to time
With Lightroom new enhancement features it’s largely irrelevant now anyhow 12000iso apsc images looking like 2000iso images from a full frame with all the muddiness cleaned up.
Bottom line flash the key as you know as you rightfully said light is a sensors best friend and that goes for any camera.
I disagree. It’s not as black and white since not all full frame sensors are even the same. From my experience from over a decade of work, full frame still out performs crop when having to push the image in crazy exposure and contrast scenes. There are still no tools that troll make high iso images look good. All the AI software still have ugly side effects sadly. It’s weird cause NeatVideo for noise video is amazing but for photos it doesn’t look nearly as good.
What flash setup did you use for this shoot? Maybe I missed it, but was your opinion based on the images taken with natural light only or overall?
cheers for this, makes a lot of sense, Ditched a lot of my Big sony glass to lighten the load, was going to ditch the lot for the XH2S and Xh2 but just could not take that final step so decided to keep one sony body and a few primes and then have a XH2s and the alternate primes so have 25 -135 covered between both. best of both worlds, get my fuji goodness and put up with the muddyness, and sony FF for when need that bit more umph. the muddyness though has always been there to a degree since the Xt1, although the XT1 sensor was for sure the best for colour and feel...
I’ld use my Leica Sl2 for that shoot….
I'm not a pro and I'm not sure I get it correctly. I just got X-T5 since I'm also into wildlife photography and I'm really happy with the quality that I going to sell my Panasonic S5. I was thinking to add a X-H2s but I'm afraid to get some issue that you may have confirm in this video. I did try an O-M1 and used a E-M1 III before and I noticed that O-M1 was less flexible when pushing dynamic range, shadow and also seems to have less color depth. I guess this kind of downside are connected with stacked sensor. That is why I'm on the fence for X-H2s and I think I will stick just with X-T5 that it a really good color depth.
XT5 and XH2S will have very similar everything. The only thing you’ll get more out of the XT5 is the ability to crop in more. Color depth comes from bit rate. Such as the GFX 100S having 16bit vs the XT5/XH2S both having 14bit. Also with larger sensors comes greater ability to collect more color info. Think about it this way.. you have small computer screen with 26 squares of color, then the same size screen with 40 squares of color.. they look similar but the 40 squares has a tiny bit more clarity. Now blow that window up by 400%….. which ones goes to have better everything.
My best friends a commercial photographer in NYC with a $20,000/month studio. He uses a canon 5d mark ii😮. My Leica Q is my daily, r6mii for work stuff.
Which has worst dynamic range than the Fuji these days. And we all got by then.
Hi.It's a dilemma for me to choose one of these cameras for commercial works and short films.weddings
Gh6 vs s5iix vs fuji xh2s vs a7iv
I’d try the s5iix and A7IV. They both crop 1.5X in 60fps I think tho, which would annoy me. Maybe the s5iix won’t. Idk
Johnny Depp is doing camera reviews?
Curious what you think of the Leica SL2-S
Love my gfx for this reason. How did you start getting great case studies of the right type to land great fashion clients?
“This thing is not going to put a ring on my finger “ 😂😂😂 Cam you my good sir are a legend !
That camera is meant for video. Cool work
Great video, thanks for posting.
What l bracket do you have on that camera?
Your videos are like a class for photography. I really enjoy that.
And for me personally you nail it with the music you chose. Really nice. Thanks again dude!
Great stuff man! I’ve learned so much watching your content!
Question, in one of your previous videos you mentioned changing the in camera curve of your XH2S to better match the GFX, what were those changes?
I haven’t shot on anyGFX, so I don’t have a frame of reference 😂
Same here on the x100v being my most used camera.
Love your videos. You're so honest and direct, telling it as it is. You seem to be experiencing the same things I am with the same brands. Love how you support other photographers/videographers by sharing your experience and knowledge in such a clear manner.
Hmmmm…makes me wonder if the sigma lenses on an XH2 might deliver? A bit more resolution and maybe a bit more dynamic range and the sigma lenses are hella sharp and saturated, but they also haven’t delivered a long telephoto for Fuji-X mount either.
The lenses wouldn’t do much to solve my personal issues with crop sensors. The new Fuji primes coming out are insanely clean wide open now. But yeah, on paper the xh2 seems better but it reality after testing all it really gets you is the ability to punch in a little bit more. Still has the same sharpness and dynamic range honestly. Like it’s not a night and day difference that you would get with the gfx sensors.
N that kickass tune at the end ? Luv it
Thanks for sharing your insight. Would love to see you get your hands on a R6 mark 2 and share your thoughts on it.
Most likely won’t be touching it. I’m happy with my R5C. An R5 Mk II would catch my attention more for sure
Use an iPhone 14 pro next time. Hahaaa..
Lol hey I bet within 5 years all these smart phones will be matching camera quality haha. Wild stuff. Interesting to see when camera companies are going to start infusing AI tech for dynamic range and stuff
The first full frame camera to successfully incorporate AI processing and hrd/noise/focus stacking may finally kill the smart phone camera. HA!
I totally agree with your findings. I also shoot with a Fuji X-T4 and Sony A7IV. When I know I'll be shooting low light. I leave it up to the Sony A7IV to do the job. If I know I will be in a situation with plenty of light I don't hesitate to use the Fuji. As long as you have plenty of light the Fuji delivers.
I totally agree with everything you said in this video, especially the ISO past 800 part. That is my gripe with the old XT-2. I love it so much but when it gets dark and I have to push it a little higher, it just falls apart. Making some changes to Sony and it just works.
However, I like your gear approach, in which you separate the camera you used for work and personal. I find it makes sense to just rent sony for every run-and-gun situation, and spend the money I get to own GFX and it crazy lenses.
I had an X-H2 but I sent it back. I thought it was going to be the answer to my prayers, but it just didn't have that much more over my X-T3. I loved the autofocus, and the handling with the grip and all, and I might actually buy another one down the road for videos, but the GFX was calling me. I picked up the GFX 50S II, and after opening the very first file, I was like holy crap! This is what I've been missing?!? All the comparisons online keep saying how you don't need it, and that there's very little difference, and it's not worth the expense, etc. I can now confidently say, that it's so so much better, you can't even compare. Sure, you can use anything and work professionally, but why not if you can afford it, use the optimal tool for the job? It's no doubt a chunk of change, and it took the serious holiday rebates to get me to adopt it, but dang. I don't need more pixels than 50mp, they're detailed like crazy already, but it would be nice if they could get the AF up to Canon standards, but all in good time.
Full frame has about a 1 stop advantage in high ISO noise, therefore if you open up the aperture by 1 stop on APSC you should get similar results. And the interesting thing is that opening your aperture by 1 stop on APSC should also give you similar depth of field.
I always have the XF 50mm f1 in my bag when I’m working in low light for this reason. It also doesn’t hurt using on camera flash for bounce when needed.
None of that matters. You’re still going to get cleaner results on full frame and medium format. Can talk all the spec sheets you want, real world results are different. And as I was saying, you shouldn’t be shooting at F1 for fashion shoots. And I would never ever use on camera flash for a high paying job 😂 unless it was in the mood board which it rarely is.
Each type of gig requires a different set of techniques and tools. You can’t just slap on generalizations on to everything.
NIce, I wonder why you were using a flash in a lot of those shots, which kind of killed the mood and lighting making it look more studio-ish. I guess the Fuji was not up to it, My Sony at 6400 is pretty noiseless if you expose correctly, which would have easily handled that "darker" scene... Her face looks pretty "white" with the flash.. But I understand since you only had the fuji...
Lol you got it all wrong. This was a fashion campaign shoot. It’s about showing off the clothes. It’s less about the mood and more about showing people what the clothes look like smh. In order to get proper exposure in that barn I would have to shoot f1.2 at ISO 800 1/60th of a second… that’s all bad for a fashion shoot. This is what separates the pros from amateurs. Brands could care less about your bokeh. They want clean shots of their product while creating an environment that matches their branding.
I like the X-H2S for its usable prebuffer mode, so you have a significantly better chance to capture "The Moment" (human reaction time is simply too slow to capture moments that last less than a certain amount of time, which they do even when shooting portraits). If Fuji somehow managed to increase the frame rate of pre-buffered shots to more than the current 10fps, they'd become my new best friend.
I personally have zero use for that feature haha. Maybe if I was shooting lightning or cheetahs
@@cammackey Shooting portraits, it used to drive me crazy to know that I always pressed the shutter release a split second after I saw the moment I wanted in the viewfinder (which is easily the difference between a keeper and trash for me). If you want its use demonstrated for even slow-moving subjects, you can try the following:
1. Play a UA-cam video of someone talking (let's say) and pause it when you see them at a capture-worthy moment.
2. Use the ";" (semicolon) key to step back one frame at a time to find out by how many frames you missed the moment, and think about whether the moment you ACTUALLY paused at would end up as a keeper or in the bin. Due to both the photographer (when handheld) and model moving even when idling, there will almost always be a best frame regardless of movement speed.
I guess it all comes down to how picky one is about the temporal aspect of the capture. For me, it eclipses everything else, but everyone has their own set of priorities of course.
@@itswrongtokillanimalsifyou2837 for me I don’t really see that being an issue. I shoot too many frames as it is haha.
@@cammackey That's great. Yeah, the culling changes lol.