Thank you, Alan! I had the same problem on a Ford Edge 2017. I hung out for 1 month at the greatest masters, repair services and forums, I changed the brake pads and motors, no result. Your video opened my eyes. I lay down under the car and pulled out the cable. One wire was broken and from time to time it made contact to wonder what was going on. I re-soldered the wire, the parking brake now works and in the passenger compartment is quiet - one can drive with pleasure.
I was like, "What it isnt the short loom?" this is intresting as it allways has bean it, here in Finland. Cladly here our Taxis are mostlikly Automaticks so drivers don't use Handbrakes and so they broke when they are off and free ;) I would say its the up and down motion on the wires that dos it thats why we replace both sides same time when this hapends. After replasing the wireloom just use the handbrake 3 times should clear the fault ;) Cheers mate nice to see im not only one that cars like to pull on the noses ;) :D
Exactly. He’ll probably try that next time - if there ever is a next time. But he can be forgiven into just wanting to get the car moved out of the way quick.
I know in the heat of the moment you do what you need to do but not everyone can afford all that expense like Alan did I love Alan videos but I was just putting it out there incase anyone might have trouble with electric handbrakes a 12v or cordless drill battery connected direct to motor or undo the two hex bolts and motor mechanism is removed then you could wind back the piston as a temporary get out of jail
If this were to happen again, take a 9V battery and 2 pieces of wire. Unplug the connector and attach the 9v battery to the motor and it will operate the motor. If when you attach it, the brake doesn't release, then switch the polarity of the wires. This is how many people without expensive scan tools repair rear brakes with the EPB.
Thats where load pro and power prove is become needed and helpful in this kind of problem.I enjoy your video mate.I know how it feels like when it hard to find the trouble because of this new technology.
Unfortunately the plastic sheathing / tubing seems to be a water trap and causes this corrosion. I see this quite a bit on park brake and ABS looms on cars still under warranty (Focus, Ranger, Kuga, Mondeo) . Ford wiring harnesses are turning into the modern day Peugeot. Nice work, been watching your videos a while now
Hi Alan, what about get the old loom plug and solder two pieces of wire on to the plug that goes to the calliper and a couple of croc clips, keep a 12v jelly battery on standby for the next time, disconnect the vehicle calliper plug, and then plug in the made up cable and connect the croc clips to the battery, doesn't matter which way round, if it doesn't release then swap the croc clips round, and also if you need to change rear pads then there's no need to use the diagnostic box to release the park brake 👍
hi Alan i have a ford mondeo mk5. which hangs on one rear brake. the disc brake quickly reaches 100 degrees Celsius. I have replaced brake discs and brake pads but still hangs a bit. the wheel is a bit slow to spin around need to take a little hart in order to spin it. suspects that the brake piston does not retract enough. Do you know what I can do to fix it? besides replacing the brake caliper it costs 470 USD seems like there is a little more brake dust from the rear brakes than there is on the front brakes
Just had this exact same issue with my 2016 galaxy,all the same symptoms and codes,managed to release the handbrake by removing the motor and winding it back manually with a E socket on the splines,replaced the motor first,then realised I had no power to it(doh)any how have now replaced both os & ns looms to not be stuck again £40 for the pair(won't mention the £90 motor 🙄) anyhow cheers Alan for another top video,cheers steve👍
Yep, rule 101 for all continuity checks is to measure from the last point in the circuit, in this case the caliper plug pins to the end point, being the ABS module. I also believe you can unbolt the PB actuator and manually unwind the caliper lock to get the PB off? If the RH actuator is fine, I would jave jumpered two wires across to the LH caliper plug to release that brake. Saves destroying parts.
Hi Alan have missed these videos, done my friends rear brakes on a qashqai he had a problem with them sticking after removing the motor and manually turning the pistons back and forth it sorted out his issue.cars are becoming more electrically complicated than ever.
Electronic parking brakes are a solution to a problem that nobody asked. They add more expense and complexity for no benefit. If your battery goes flat you cannot take the handbrake off and push the car closer to another for a jump start - interesting if the car is parked in your garage. Sadly they appear to be almost universal now but given a choice, I'd have a traditional lever every time
I had this on a b6 Passat, handbrake jammed on driver side, so a little google and 3 T30 bolts and the motor came off the back and a T45 and wound the calliper out and then tada 🎉 all free. 😂😂
I had something similar on a BMW when my headlight alignment went bonkers, had to strip and solder in new sections of wire to resolve it. When I split the wire I removed I had the same thing......blue corroded copper wire. I was never able to explain how it happened but it was clear moisture had gone in.
Hi Alan , I have a Mondeo mk4 2.0 tdci titanium x estate , beautiful car that has sentimental value as my Dad bought it me , had trouble with an injector which burnt hole in injector cover , just wondering if you had a cover off old engine you want to sell ? Thanks Mark
What I’ve done before is take the motor off and put a multi star socket in it unwind it taking the handbrake off was a Audi Q5 but looks about the same kind of motor. Just in case you get another one lol 😂
Allen You are the man mate how you treaced that wire most guys would have gave up I have never seen a wire breal Iike that and in a loom this must be a one off a Freak but the best guy aroud found it you are the best nate love these videos Phil in stoke
Thank you Alan for your video about mk5. Since long time, I haven't seen one, I thought the mondeos stopped breaking or you just stopped fixing them :) Keep recording even small things (and showing how you get out things from the car) whenever you have time. I'm in the middle of fixing HPFP and replacing cambelt this weekend, I need to replace radiator as well (it is corroded at the bottom), so hope to find a video about that (how to get it out). This is first time for me to fix things like these in a car, but I was always interested about fixing my own car and you made me to start fixing more complicated things. Unfortunately, I notice something wrong with me - I'm getting addicted to your videos! :-) Keep recording, you're doing great job for people like me (amateur mechanics)!
So just a coincidence that I was following your video to change my rear pads and discs today on my mk5 and boy were the inner pads down to the metal! I also disconnected the cable to the motor as on the Mondeo facebook group there had been reports of the brake maintenance mode disengaging randomly and powering the calliper until it unwound it beyond its limits, nasty. I wanted to paint the calliper as well as they are so corroded but didn't get time so will need to go back and do that soon. Also need to do the fronts but the s***y ford made of cheese wheel nuts have swollen so have a set on order to replace them. Also rear discs didn't just fall off, very rusted on and got them off with a lump hammer which I'm surprised at for a 2016 with 42k on the clock, original discs maybe? One thing that would be really handy for the home bodger like myself is to show us how to jack up the front and rear of the mk5 with a trolley jack. I don't think I'd seen you show that before as you have your lifts .... everything would be so much easier with a lift. I fashioned an offset slotted jack pad to use the arrowed jacking points on the seam but that ended up getting squashed. So I then went with a flat jack pad and that bent the seam! I then used the supplied scissor jack with offset saddle and I get the impression most of the load is going on the floor immediately behind the seam and not on the seam itself. Also whoever designed the foldaway handle for jack which includes the 19" wrench for the wheel nuts and the jack itself is a genius. Finally and said with a bucketful of hindsight, knowing what the issue was now and as had been said below, you might have been able to just power the calliper motor directly to get it to disengage. I know its not a very common issue but I'd have knocked by a loom to do that from the failed one just in case you need it for future use. Also you could work which way round it needs to be +ve and -ve to engage and disengage using the old calliper on the bench (if it still worked). Although I suspect you've thrown them away ;-) I seem to remember there was a common issue on the early mk4s front abs sensor looms which would corrode like that in the same place. Someone suggested it was down to the machine that applied the felt tape having its cut off setting slightly out and nicking the insulation just enough.
Alan, Current heats the wire that heats the air inside the insulation, the warm air expands and pushes out. When the current stops the wire cools thus drawing damp atmosphere into the wire. This causes the copper to oxidate (copper oxide) that's the green crusties!. Just look at copper overhead cable or lightning conductors, even copper tube left in the damp goes green. It's unfortunate that the wiring in cars has as litte as possible copper in them so they oxidise away quickly
Is it me or has someone done some ‘whitening’ of the tyre wall writing on the offside front tyre wall? 😃. Or is it just a well rehearsed scuff ? 😜. Good to see some good old Mondeo content back!
As I've said a few times these electronic parking brakes alongside key-less entry and start are the worst features of modern vehicles! You should do a video on a MK1 focus off your fleet, I'm sure they come in for all sorts of work!
Decades ago I had a buddy who bought a rusty dusty POS Lincoln Mark3. We were chokin & smokin along down the road when he attempted to turn at a light. When it was safe he began his turn only the engine died. That's when we found out that the mark3 parking brakes were vacuum release. When the engine stops, the parking brakes go on. When the engine starts the parking brakes go off. There we were in the middle of a busy intersection engine dead & won't start parking brakes set & wont release so we can't push it. My poor friend had to hire a tow truck to haul it home. The tow cost more than he paid for the old car. !
The mk4 /smax/galaxy has the same issue on the loom going to the rear caliper and abs sensor...... In that corrugated spiral wrap , the corrugated stuff eats into the insulation and ends up shorting the abs cables together ( rain helps the process) only way to fix it is get under with a soldering iron and repair the cables as they are part of the main loom going into the car
thats one of the reasons i retired from the motor trade, friend of mine has a citroen picasso with auto box, electronicly controlled, wont change from drive to reverse and vica versa without a lot of swearing, did the obvious checks, found nothing so it,s off to a "specialist" int morning ....wishing them luck.
Got to be an auto electrician as well as a mechanic nowadays. I get controlling the emissions but why all the extra electronic stuff when good old fashioned mechanical systems work perfectly well. Technology for the sake of it.
I agree with this on many things, but I couldn't disagree more on electronic parking brakes. I once got in a co-workers car and found her handbrake was barely on! On the other hand, my dad tries to pull the handbrake lever clean out of the floor. Electronic parking brakes remove this variable. What's more I bet they're actually *more* reliable, and, even better, they FAIL SAFE. This is huge. If your handbrake cable snaps, your car could roll away. The electronic brakes tend to stick on, as seen in this video.
I just wonder why on earth everything is digitalized and electronic? Is it just to make cars more expensive to own and maintain? Here in Finland roads are salted in winter so these electronic handbrake problems are very common. I just start thinking of buying a car from the 1970s or 1980s to do without these problems.
Re. faults repaired and ECU still saying there's a fault and you having to do a function test is typical of the can bus system, it's like when you change a blown bulb and it remains off with the new one, it will only work if you switch the light off and on and it will illuminate as it's reset the ECU, as an old school mechanic that took some sinking in, bloody modern electrics. Incidentally our roving sparky when he's checking lives he uses a halogen headlamp bulb as it loads the wiring with amps to check for high resistance wires. That abs ECU should've picked up the high resistance in that wire before it went full open circuit. On our police Volvo's as we didn't have a diagnostic tablet to wind the handbrake motor back to change the pads we just unbolted the motor and with a torx bit wound the calipers back then squeeze the pistons back, I wonder if that happens again you could remove the motor and wind the handbrake mechanism off and move the car. Thanks for sharing your fix and well done for admitting your mistake as we've all done it. Enjoying the live streams, it's a good catch up.
Great video Alan, Just on observation though,couldn't you have tried putting power into the caliper from an external source,IE from a separate battery and two wires directly into the motor just to see if it would release? Rather than going captain caveman on its arse? The ABS wiring loom to the rear left wheel on my mk4 broke in a similar fashion,that took a bit of head scratching too🤣
When you're in the field on a breakdown you don't have time to do this and do that the priority is to expedite the car back to the depot if the fault is a new one to you and not obvious, yes it was extreme to break the caliper etc to get the motor moving but that is how Alan thinks I guess
Late to the party on this one but Christ I've had some issues with a Mk5 recently. Coming home, battery kicked it. No Speedo, no power steering, no lights, nothing. Fucker died just as I got it into the drive and now I can't put the bastard handbrake on 😂
Ford make money as other manufacturers by fitting these complicated fandango’s and good excuse to increase price of their cars. No reason whatsoever to abandon the handbrake leaver method. My mk4 has an excellent handbrake.
Mondeo mk5 it is a complete scrap. From 2 years I am unfortunately the owner of mondeo and every 3 months I have problem with this car. Lots of issues are exactly the same which I found on your channel. No more Ford never the worst car ever I had.
Idiot Ford why they replace the traditional manual hand brake compare to this crazy idea epb which is another investment to car owner. Manual hand brake long last and no problem even 200 yrs or more
fords are now shit and you need to invest in back probes and a calibrated meter your meter has not been calibrated only fit for the bin need a good fluke loving the videos but would not touch a ford now
I find it strange that the good old mechanical emergency handbrake was ever allowed for safety reasons to be replaced with an electronic one.
Seriously tempted to put a new mechanical ebrake on my fusion.
Thank you, Alan! I had the same problem on a Ford Edge 2017. I hung out for 1 month at the greatest masters, repair services and forums, I changed the brake pads and motors, no result. Your video opened my eyes. I lay down under the car and pulled out the cable. One wire was broken and from time to time it made contact to wonder what was going on. I re-soldered the wire, the parking brake now works and in the passenger compartment is quiet - one can drive with pleasure.
thats great news, glad the video helped
Undo the two cap heads and pull the motor off, then you can wind the piston back by hand 👍
This is a fantastic video, it's just how real life is in the world of fault finding. Most will cut out these parts out and make it look easy.
Alan is such a man with a great mechanical know how ....I love watching His videos because I learn so much ...Thank You Alan
I was like, "What it isnt the short loom?" this is intresting as it allways has bean it, here in Finland.
Cladly here our Taxis are mostlikly Automaticks so drivers don't use Handbrakes and so they broke when they are off and free ;)
I would say its the up and down motion on the wires that dos it thats why we replace both sides same time when this hapends.
After replasing the wireloom just use the handbrake 3 times should clear the fault ;)
Cheers mate nice to see im not only one that cars like to pull on the noses ;) :D
Could you not supply 12v Direct to the Caliper motor to release the park brake or undo the motor and turn the mechanism with hand tools
With hindsight I expect so although didn't he say there was no continuity through the motor on the calliper either?
Exactly. He’ll probably try that next time - if there ever is a next time. But he can be forgiven into just wanting to get the car moved out of the way quick.
I know in the heat of the moment you do what you need to do but not everyone can afford all that expense like Alan did I love Alan videos but I was just putting it out there incase anyone might have trouble with electric handbrakes a 12v or cordless drill battery connected direct to motor or undo the two hex bolts and motor mechanism is removed then you could wind back the piston as a temporary get out of jail
@@LC-km9kp that would be my first thought as I’m more confident with wires than hammers 🤣
You could put 12v directly to it, but it may not take 12v.not all the eletrickery is what it may seem.
Absolutely brilliant Alan 🤩
cheers stevie
Next time unbolt the motor and wind back the piston remove the two 30 torq bolts use a spline drive to wind off hope this helps in the future
If this were to happen again, take a 9V battery and 2 pieces of wire. Unplug the connector and attach the 9v battery to the motor and it will operate the motor. If when you attach it, the brake doesn't release, then switch the polarity of the wires. This is how many people without expensive scan tools repair rear brakes with the EPB.
Just out of curiosity could the motor not have been unbolted of the back of the caliper to release the piston ?
Thats where load pro and power prove is become needed and helpful in this kind of problem.I enjoy your video mate.I know how it feels like when it hard to find the trouble because of this new technology.
Unfortunately the plastic sheathing / tubing seems to be a water trap and causes this corrosion. I see this quite a bit on park brake and ABS looms on cars still under warranty (Focus, Ranger, Kuga, Mondeo) . Ford wiring harnesses are turning into the modern day Peugeot. Nice work, been watching your videos a while now
Hi Alan, what about get the old loom plug and solder two pieces of wire on to the plug that goes to the calliper and a couple of croc clips, keep a 12v jelly battery on standby for the next time, disconnect the vehicle calliper plug, and then plug in the made up cable and connect the croc clips to the battery, doesn't matter which way round, if it doesn't release then swap the croc clips round, and also if you need to change rear pads then there's no need to use the diagnostic box to release the park brake 👍
Great video Alan my son has 2017 Mondeo, now I know how it works thanks.
Glad it helped, cheers malcolm
Good to have you back alan great video
hi Alan i have a ford mondeo mk5. which hangs on one rear brake. the disc brake quickly reaches 100 degrees Celsius.
I have replaced brake discs and brake pads but still hangs a bit.
the wheel is a bit slow to spin around need to take a little hart in order to spin it.
suspects that the brake piston does not retract enough.
Do you know what I can do to fix it? besides replacing the brake caliper it costs 470 USD
seems like there is a little more brake dust from the rear brakes than there is on the front brakes
Just had this exact same issue with my 2016 galaxy,all the same symptoms and codes,managed to release the handbrake by removing the motor and winding it back manually with a E socket on the splines,replaced the motor first,then realised I had no power to it(doh)any how have now replaced both os & ns looms to not be stuck again £40 for the pair(won't mention the £90 motor 🙄) anyhow cheers Alan for another top video,cheers steve👍
Yep, rule 101 for all continuity checks is to measure from the last point in the circuit, in this case the caliper plug pins to the end point, being the ABS module. I also believe you can unbolt the PB actuator and manually unwind the caliper lock to get the PB off? If the RH actuator is fine, I would jave jumpered two wires across to the LH caliper plug to release that brake. Saves destroying parts.
What if you had put 12 v onto the motor to back it off ?
Thanks for the video Alan.
Hi Alan have missed these videos, done my friends rear brakes on a qashqai he had a problem with them sticking after removing the motor and manually turning the pistons back and forth it sorted out his issue.cars are becoming more electrically complicated than ever.
Most informative Alan thank you.
Thanks for the video Allan, please keep uploading videos when you can. It helps us a lot, especially the 2014- transit connects thanks
Cannot thank you enough for this info...got the same, off to buy the loom in morn.
Where can you get the looms? I’ve scoured the internet and found nothing 🤷🏻♂️☹️
@@graemesteele6127 dealership only.
@@graemesteele6127 2 mins to remove & refit
A very good helpful and interesting video.Thanks Alan. Shared with some Ford owners clubs I am in.
I love the gta vice city mall theme. Great diagnostics and I hope you had a great vacation my friend.
Keep it up, subs will come.
Thanks, you too!
I’ve got the same problem on my mondeo, where did you get the new loom from please?
Electronic parking brakes are a solution to a problem that nobody asked. They add more expense and complexity for no benefit. If your battery goes flat you cannot take the handbrake off and push the car closer to another for a jump start - interesting if the car is parked in your garage. Sadly they appear to be almost universal now but given a choice, I'd have a traditional lever every time
Try importing some russian Lada. Sometimes it is good to be conservative.
Really enjoy your longer videos
When you attended the breakdown why did you not undo the two Allen screws and remove the motor?
i did, the motor was so tight on the pads i had to use a large lever bar to pry the calliper off the disc
Another brilliant video again as always
Very interesting, quick question if you get a flat battery , how do you get the electronic handbrake off?
Have u found any answers?
I had this on a b6 Passat, handbrake jammed on driver side, so a little google and 3 T30 bolts and the motor came off the back and a T45 and wound the calliper out and then tada 🎉 all free. 😂😂
I had something similar on a BMW when my headlight alignment went bonkers, had to strip and solder in new sections of wire to resolve it. When I split the wire I removed I had the same thing......blue corroded copper wire. I was never able to explain how it happened but it was clear moisture had gone in.
Looking forward to watching your next video when it comes out
Hi Alan , I have a Mondeo mk4 2.0 tdci titanium x estate , beautiful car that has sentimental value as my Dad bought it me , had trouble with an injector which burnt hole in injector cover , just wondering if you had a cover off old engine you want to sell ? Thanks Mark
Good job Alan, You are an honest Man, fair play:):)
What I’ve done before is take the motor off and put a multi star socket in it unwind it taking the handbrake off was a Audi Q5 but looks about the same kind of motor. Just in case you get another one lol 😂
Allen
You are the man mate how you treaced that wire most guys would have gave up I have never seen a wire breal Iike that and in a loom this must be a one off a Freak but the best guy aroud found it you are the best nate love these videos
Phil in stoke
lol cheers phil
Thank you Alan for your video about mk5. Since long time, I haven't seen one, I thought the mondeos stopped breaking or you just stopped fixing them :) Keep recording even small things (and showing how you get out things from the car) whenever you have time. I'm in the middle of fixing HPFP and replacing cambelt this weekend, I need to replace radiator as well (it is corroded at the bottom), so hope to find a video about that (how to get it out). This is first time for me to fix things like these in a car, but I was always interested about fixing my own car and you made me to start fixing more complicated things. Unfortunately, I notice something wrong with me - I'm getting addicted to your videos! :-) Keep recording, you're doing great job for people like me (amateur mechanics)!
If only someone would design a lever between the seat's and 2 cable's running to the wheels ! And they call this progress 🤔
Hope you have had a good holiday
Another great video Alan the Achilles heel of modern electronics a bit of dodgy wiring throws a spanner in the works you got there in the end good job
So just a coincidence that I was following your video to change my rear pads and discs today on my mk5 and boy were the inner pads down to the metal! I also disconnected the cable to the motor as on the Mondeo facebook group there had been reports of the brake maintenance mode disengaging randomly and powering the calliper until it unwound it beyond its limits, nasty. I wanted to paint the calliper as well as they are so corroded but didn't get time so will need to go back and do that soon. Also need to do the fronts but the s***y ford made of cheese wheel nuts have swollen so have a set on order to replace them. Also rear discs didn't just fall off, very rusted on and got them off with a lump hammer which I'm surprised at for a 2016 with 42k on the clock, original discs maybe?
One thing that would be really handy for the home bodger like myself is to show us how to jack up the front and rear of the mk5 with a trolley jack. I don't think I'd seen you show that before as you have your lifts .... everything would be so much easier with a lift. I fashioned an offset slotted jack pad to use the arrowed jacking points on the seam but that ended up getting squashed. So I then went with a flat jack pad and that bent the seam! I then used the supplied scissor jack with offset saddle and I get the impression most of the load is going on the floor immediately behind the seam and not on the seam itself. Also whoever designed the foldaway handle for jack which includes the 19" wrench for the wheel nuts and the jack itself is a genius.
Finally and said with a bucketful of hindsight, knowing what the issue was now and as had been said below, you might have been able to just power the calliper motor directly to get it to disengage. I know its not a very common issue but I'd have knocked by a loom to do that from the failed one just in case you need it for future use. Also you could work which way round it needs to be +ve and -ve to engage and disengage using the old calliper on the bench (if it still worked). Although I suspect you've thrown them away ;-) I seem to remember there was a common issue on the early mk4s front abs sensor looms which would corrode like that in the same place. Someone suggested it was down to the machine that applied the felt tape having its cut off setting slightly out and nicking the insulation just enough.
You look totally "shagged out" in that video Alan 😂😂😂😂
Great video Alan, I'm seeing this kind of thing every week now in looms on all models of car, the new looms are crap, penny pinching manufactures. 👍
Clearly explained.. since i've own a 2019 now its good to know this could appear (not to be sure).. but i know where the look first ..
cheers michel
Hi Alan congratulations on reaching 28,900 subscribers and you will soon be at 30,000 subscribers
mate, you are a legend
what is this cable called?
rear brake calliper wiring loom
How has the taxi business picked up since we have come out of lockdown and the same for the car sales as well
Well found mate.
Thinking on getting a ford Mondeo 2009 2.0 tdci 143. How good are those engines. Some say nay others say yay. Anything to look for specific?
they are very good if they have been looked after...had the proper oil changes
Alan, Current heats the wire that heats the air inside the insulation, the warm air expands and pushes out. When the current stops the wire cools thus drawing damp atmosphere into the wire. This causes the copper to oxidate (copper oxide) that's the green crusties!. Just look at copper overhead cable or lightning conductors, even copper tube left in the damp goes green. It's unfortunate that the wiring in cars has as litte as possible copper in them so they oxidise away quickly
Great video Alan even more so you found the root cause to the problem
Is it me or has someone done some ‘whitening’ of the tyre wall writing on the offside front tyre wall? 😃. Or is it just a well rehearsed scuff ? 😜. Good to see some good old Mondeo content back!
I've the same message on my mk5 as this problem soon as I open the door what's the wire called it needed
You should pick that up, bodge it and use it for the next rescue.
Just a job Alan👍👍👍
As I've said a few times these electronic parking brakes alongside key-less entry and start are the worst features of modern vehicles! You should do a video on a MK1 focus off your fleet, I'm sure they come in for all sorts of work!
Decades ago I had a buddy who bought a rusty dusty POS Lincoln Mark3.
We were chokin & smokin along down the road when he attempted to turn
at a light. When it was safe he began his turn only the engine died. That's
when we found out that the mark3 parking brakes were vacuum release.
When the engine stops, the parking brakes go on. When the engine starts
the parking brakes go off. There we were in the middle of a busy intersection
engine dead & won't start parking brakes set & wont release so we can't
push it. My poor friend had to hire a tow truck to haul it home. The tow
cost more than he paid for the old car.
!
other videos are saying that the action/travel of the wheel and suspension over time breaks the wire in that loom
The mk4 /smax/galaxy has the same issue on the loom going to the rear caliper and abs sensor...... In that corrugated spiral wrap , the corrugated stuff eats into the insulation and ends up shorting the abs cables together ( rain helps the process) only way to fix it is get under with a soldering iron and repair the cables as they are part of the main loom going into the car
thats one of the reasons i retired from the motor trade, friend of mine has a citroen picasso with auto box, electronicly controlled, wont change from drive to reverse and vica versa without a lot of swearing, did the obvious checks, found nothing so it,s off to a "specialist" int morning ....wishing them luck.
i got terrible trouble with a cmax 2004 wireing may be same
You should get some skids to put under the rear wheels to drag it onto the trailer.
Oh I somehow knew how much I was going to like electric handbrakes 😕
lol
What happens if you get no message on the dash board and not aware their's a problem
Got to be an auto electrician as well as a mechanic nowadays. I get controlling the emissions but why all the extra electronic stuff when good old fashioned mechanical systems work perfectly well. Technology for the sake of it.
It's all designed to bring an end to the DIY mechanic.
@@tiguanman1170 yup and removing your right to repair.
I agree with this on many things, but I couldn't disagree more on electronic parking brakes. I once got in a co-workers car and found her handbrake was barely on! On the other hand, my dad tries to pull the handbrake lever clean out of the floor. Electronic parking brakes remove this variable. What's more I bet they're actually *more* reliable, and, even better, they FAIL SAFE. This is huge. If your handbrake cable snaps, your car could roll away. The electronic brakes tend to stick on, as seen in this video.
Keep the 20quid for the chip shop, replace the wire and repin the connectors
Hope you are all staying safe and well
I just wonder why on earth everything is digitalized and electronic? Is it just to make cars more expensive to own and maintain? Here in Finland roads are salted in winter so these electronic handbrake problems are very common. I just start thinking of buying a car from the 1970s or 1980s to do without these problems.
Thanks for the important video! 👍👏
i will say i don't like electronic handbrake, conventional one for me any day
What if the caliper gets stuck on but still gets out only after you switch off and on the car 🤔
Re. faults repaired and ECU still saying there's a fault and you having to do a function test is typical of the can bus system, it's like when you change a blown bulb and it remains off with the new one, it will only work if you switch the light off and on and it will illuminate as it's reset the ECU, as an old school mechanic that took some sinking in, bloody modern electrics.
Incidentally our roving sparky when he's checking lives he uses a halogen headlamp bulb as it loads the wiring with amps to check for high resistance wires. That abs ECU should've picked up the high resistance in that wire before it went full open circuit.
On our police Volvo's as we didn't have a diagnostic tablet to wind the handbrake motor back to change the pads we just unbolted the motor and with a torx bit wound the calipers back then squeeze the pistons back, I wonder if that happens again you could remove the motor and wind the handbrake mechanism off and move the car.
Thanks for sharing your fix and well done for admitting your mistake as we've all done it.
Enjoying the live streams, it's a good catch up.
cheers loyndsy, those mondeo calipers have no way to manually wind the mechanism ..you would have to smash the plastic cover to get to the motor
Bloody typical
Great video Alan,
Just on observation though,couldn't you have tried putting power into the caliper from an external source,IE from a separate battery and two wires directly into the motor just to see if it would release?
Rather than going captain caveman on its arse?
The ABS wiring loom to the rear left wheel on my mk4 broke in a similar fashion,that took a bit of head scratching too🤣
Probably he jumped to the most obvious possible fault, a dead electric motor.
When you're in the field on a breakdown you don't have time to do this and do that the priority is to expedite the car back to the depot if the fault is a new one to you and not obvious, yes it was extreme to break the caliper etc to get the motor moving but that is how Alan thinks I guess
Electronic parking brakes are the work of the devil give me a handbrake eneyday 😠👍👌
Some times we can’t see the wood for the trees
😜
Hello. Does anyone know why the engine can vibrate at Ford mondeo mk5 2015 2.0 tdci?
worn out engine dual mass flywheel maybe
Muckin Fental!
Fair play for showing you screwed up on continuity. Been there done that. Its a bitch when you then realise what you done.
Please I need your help can I come to your garage
Electronic brakes can be troublesome and prefer old technology ‘manual’ handbrake
"Like a twat"? Yea, well - now that you mention it yourself. 😁
We've probably all made oversights. Welcome to the Society of Human Behaviour. 😊
Interesting!
Late to the party on this one but Christ I've had some issues with a Mk5 recently. Coming home, battery kicked it. No Speedo, no power steering, no lights, nothing. Fucker died just as I got it into the drive and now I can't put the bastard handbrake on 😂
TAHANKIOU. ALAN
The green with the blue is never true, I thought everyone knew that old adage ;-)
krypton factor
Ford make money as other manufacturers by fitting these complicated fandango’s and good excuse to increase price of their cars. No reason whatsoever to abandon the handbrake leaver method. My mk4 has an excellent handbrake.
thats one caliper down the drain for nothing
Just another unneeded extra to Fix Or Repair Daily!
👍
Ford is a better car than the german dkw.s,on a passat 2010 you need to buy the whole left loom bumper to bumper for 7000 euro
Prefer these proper videos!!! Forget the live feed - personally I don’t like live feed videos. Hope Monika is keeping well!
Mondeo mk5 it is a complete scrap. From 2 years I am unfortunately the owner of mondeo and every 3 months I have problem with this car. Lots of issues are exactly the same which I found on your channel. No more Ford never the worst car ever I had.
Idiot Ford why they replace the traditional manual hand brake compare to this crazy idea epb which is another investment to car owner. Manual hand brake long last and no problem even 200 yrs or more
fords are now shit and you need to invest in back probes and a calibrated meter your meter has not been calibrated only fit for the bin need a good fluke
loving the videos but would not touch a ford now
Thanks pal well explained 👍
Could you not supply 12v Direct to the Caliper motor to release the park brake or undo the motor and turn the mechanism with hand tools
Yes I was thinking that👍