Your vids crack me up.. it'll be a year or 2 till I upgrade from my mk 4 but I will still watch and enjoy... you should be on the tv you have a great laid back approach with good information, explanation and camerawork etc ... cheers 👍🏻
Ford garage in Bicester quoted me £ 460 just for pads. I hung up immediately and went to Euro car parts , bought front and rear Pagid for £ 160. I spend around £58 on tools, and 3 hours later, the job was done. Thanks for your videos, bruv.
It may be a boring brake job to you. But for me it's knowledge. I have the same car and it's my first car so this is a massive help to me. I watch your videos so much and your teaching is appreciated
Hi Alan Love your videos really informative I need to do my front discs and pads on my mk5. You make it look so easy so hopefully I can save myself a garage bill LOL. Thanks again keep the videos coming.
its habit... the wheels on these taxis are on and off so often and i find many wheel studs get stripped due to dry, dirty threads so having a bit of lubricant helps them
Cut out in backing shim makes toe of pad contact disc fractionally before heel this eliminates squealing due to resonance. Give that hub flange a good clean up before disc goes on! Ensures disc sits without any run out. Great videos though. Keep them coming.
Another great video. My next door neighbor cleans his new disc with WD40! Offered him brake cleaner. But he said he's always done it that way. Alarming as he used to work for the RAC and run his own garage! Guess they'll never squeal!!
@@onsight2822 he's not mate. I've sat and watched him doing it. Every time I say "here, use this brake cleaner I have. Meant for the job!" And he declined and carrys on with WD40! As he's always done. Dunno how he's not dead in a ditch with brake failure. But there you go.
You can always tell when someone works on their own vehicle (or one they have responsibility for) - that's when the grease comes out to stop disks sticking to hubs or to wheels etc so it's easier next time. Most mechanics don't bother since they probably won't see that vehicle again. Bit surprised at no copper slip on the brake pins.
Ciao Alan... Buon ferragosto Grazie per il video 👍 " Con qualche capello in più , potevi essere Edd China" 😜😜😜 Hi Alan ... Happy mid-August Thanks for the video 👍 "With a few more hairs, you could be Edd China" 😜😜😜
@@Badgertronix Totally agree with you that Ate system slider pins are shouldn't be lubricated!It's a well known fact!But you need to clean them before they go back!Caliper carrier MUST to be cleaned and lubricated in places where in contact with break pads to provide break pads proper movement.
My thoughts on this cut out It makes the pad sit slightly off parallel and gives the pad a bit of angle of attack . Stops the vibrations that make noises I’m thinking back now and remember mk2 escorts had a shim fitted between the pad that biased one side of the piston it had an arrow as well
Good tip is unscrew bleeder screw before you squeeze piston. It avoid pushing back all black dusty brake fluid up. Another thing is you should clean wheel hub before putting new disc. Good for life piston is red rubber grease and for brake pads and carrier silicone grease.
Hmmm well if your brakes are in normal shape you won't be pushing any dusty fluid to system. Though I agree that it is nice way to keep them nipples in good working order and to prevent that reservoir to overflow and obviously very good idea when changing fluid at the same time.
Morning Alan 😁 What a way to start the day a coffee and mondingo video from you 👍🏻 I could watch you all day mate 😆 How about Monica doing the lube job hehe 😂 Have a great day until the next video thanks Stevie 😎
Hello Alan, Did you get the answer for the back cutout from the pads? It is a minor thing in the whole changing process, but it's important the right fitting. And that's why the inner pad is different: left and right.
I always thought that the brake fluid reservoir cap had a tiny pinhole in it to allow for this. It is tiny so practically no air circulation occurs saturating the brake fluid with moisture.
I remember when i changed both front pads and discs on my Mk7 facelift fiesta at 15k miles odd and i had to whack 7 colours of sh*t out the passenger side disc to the point it had physically bent at the top and bottom it was that sized to the hub. All that because of a design flaw with the MK7 fiesta.
One tank's worth of kilometres, driving nice and easy, not letting them get too hot aka avoiding heavy braking. Peace. These days many brake pads don't really need bedding in. I use Carbon Fibre X semi metallic hybrid pads now (relatively new product for commuter vehicles), around $100-120 AUD for either end of the vehicle.
Had our mark 5 estate done this June 2021 at 6 & 1/4 years old with original front discs pads replaced at 72,000. Had rears done annual service before, put that excessive wear down to being electric handbrake despite the mass of the braking being on the fronts discs to stop car. (Spoke to Ford about it who agreed with fronts in such good shape backs shouldn’t have been 70% worn so gave me a 50% refund on rear brake replacement that became 100% when dealer took too long to give the refund back. Very well treated by Ford 👍.)
The basics are the best sometimes! Do you always use the Ford parts for warranty reasons or because you have a known part and not a factor who might change supplier often?
Why would you want brake dust to stick to the pads for isn't that what those sticky cardboard shims do Think it's rare you use copper grease now it's more silicone grease Health and safety don't like copper slip
Hi Alan, much appreciate the helpful tutorial videos. Do you have the part number for the motorcaft front brake discs? As my front brake pads match the part number in this video (MEDG9J-2K021-EE) on my Ford Mondeo Mk5 2.0, but my local Ford dealship are unwilling to give me the part number for the discs. Kind regards Will
I love all your videos but! *You didnt copper slip the pad ears *You didn't clean the slider pins and use the special grease... You put grease on the studs and wheel nuts but thats a super no no..
Those 2-part Ford wheel nuts are awful! After a few years water gets between the core and case, swelling it up. Then the onboard wheel brace won't fit on, so if you get a flat you won't be able to replace the wheel at the roadside. So adding some grease before that happens is certainly a very good idea. How Ford have avoided having to do a recall for these nuts I do not know!
Just replaced the very badly worn discs and pads on my 2008 mk4, front left had cracked and I had to cut them of with a grinder.. Would have appreciated if some one had put copper grease on when they where installed. :P
Hi Alan I've now got my discs and pads to fit. I noticed you didn't use any copper grease on backs of the pads. can I just put them in as you did? Only reason I ask is I've always put grease on my pads. Cheers Jon
hi jon, i don't see any point in putting copper grease on the backs of the pads..if i were to use copper grease it would be where the pad sits in the carrier but on the mk5 mondeo i have never had pads seizing in the carrier so i don't use the grease
I would have thought you would have greased the slider pin and clean the the carrier and greased the back of the pad. Sorry to pick but it is safety. Other wise a great video.
Hi Alan. I've got a mk4.5. Got the car with ATE brakes and the pads were clunking even at the slightest brake in reverse, clunk bank with the first brake going forward and go away. I've changed disc and pads, again with ATE. And enjoyed the silence for about 2 weeks, and these one started clunking also. What's going on? Could I get 2 bad ATE sets? They are new, so I'm not throwing anymore money on this. But have you ever got this issue?
although I'm no expert, but regarding brake pad directionality you mention at 5:07, it might be that the contact pattern between the metal plate and the friction material can be somewhat directional - stronger in one direction. I'm referring to this video that I saw about how the pads are made: ua-cam.com/video/H1WXlHONorw/v-deo.html
🤣 Easy-peaay job ,? -only if you have an air gun!!. Nearly broke my fingers trying to get the caliper bolts off manually, as when car is on the floor (typical home garage/roadside) you have little room for a breaker bar. And also for crying out loud, why doe Euro cars use allen keys for the pad carrier bolts? Everybody else uses good old bolts, no need for buying a set of Allen keys as I did! Good video
Your vids crack me up.. it'll be a year or 2 till I upgrade from my mk 4 but I will still watch and enjoy... you should be on the tv you have a great laid back approach with good information, explanation and camerawork etc ... cheers 👍🏻
thanks
The same, have mk4 but watching about mk5 :D, i like this guy's (Alans) style!
At least clean the slider pins🤬
Ford garage in Bicester quoted me £ 460 just for pads. I hung up immediately and went to Euro car parts , bought front and rear Pagid for £ 160. I spend around £58 on tools, and 3 hours later, the job was done. Thanks for your videos, bruv.
excellant, ☺️have a good one
It may be a boring brake job to you. But for me it's knowledge. I have the same car and it's my first car so this is a massive help to me. I watch your videos so much and your teaching is appreciated
thanks sr 101
I am starting a go fund me to get Alan a new wire brush
lol
And some food 😜
Never boring with you Alan.
cheers lascar48
Hi Alan
Love your videos really informative I need to do my front discs and pads on my mk5.
You make it look so easy so hopefully I can save myself a garage bill LOL.
Thanks again keep the videos coming.
So detailed and great discription. Well done , love your sarcastic explanation all the way through the video. Big thanks now I can do it myself.
Great video, thanks for sharing did mine today. I reckon you have saved me a few hundred quid there.
I would have argued with anyone else about greasing wheel studs, but if you say its good its ok with me, loved your video as always.
I agree to clean that hub and apply grease, but the studs.. yep i felt the same.
its habit... the wheels on these taxis are on and off so often and i find many wheel studs get stripped due to dry, dirty threads so having a bit of lubricant helps them
Thanks so much. The dealer just quoted me AUD$1076 to do this job. Perfect change to get Master 13 on the tools and save some money.
Cut out in backing shim makes toe of pad contact disc fractionally before heel this eliminates squealing due to resonance. Give that hub flange a good clean up before disc goes on! Ensures disc sits without any run out. Great videos though. Keep them coming.
thanks that is a good technical explanation
Another great video. My next door neighbor cleans his new disc with WD40! Offered him brake cleaner. But he said he's always done it that way. Alarming as he used to work for the RAC and run his own garage! Guess they'll never squeal!!
Wow. That indeed sounds strange :)
Probably winding you up 😉
@@onsight2822 he's not mate. I've sat and watched him doing it. Every time I say "here, use this brake cleaner I have. Meant for the job!" And he declined and carrys on with WD40! As he's always done. Dunno how he's not dead in a ditch with brake failure. But there you go.
You can always tell when someone works on their own vehicle (or one they have responsibility for) - that's when the grease comes out to stop disks sticking to hubs or to wheels etc so it's easier next time. Most mechanics don't bother since they probably won't see that vehicle again. Bit surprised at no copper slip on the brake pins.
Ciao Alan... Buon ferragosto
Grazie per il video 👍
" Con qualche capello in più , potevi essere Edd China" 😜😜😜
Hi Alan ... Happy mid-August
Thanks for the video 👍
"With a few more hairs, you could be Edd China" 😜😜😜
lol
Music on the into. Ohhhh lala. Another good video.
No sings of cleaning and lubricating caliper carrier??!!No cleaning for slider pins??!!!Very strange!
Read the factory service manual. No lubrication required.
@@Badgertronix Totally agree with you that Ate system slider pins are shouldn't be lubricated!It's a well known fact!But you need to clean them before they go back!Caliper carrier MUST to be cleaned and lubricated in places where in contact with break pads to provide break pads proper movement.
whatever makes you sleep better at night
My thoughts on this cut out
It makes the pad sit slightly off parallel and gives the pad a bit of angle of attack . Stops the vibrations that make noises
I’m thinking back now and remember mk2 escorts had a shim fitted between the pad that biased one side of the piston it had an arrow as well
thanks, that is very interesting
Hi Alan. I work on fords aswell and I find that if you dont clean the hub from rust you Will often get vibrations from the brakes.
yes true
You should pump the brake before putting the cap back on the brake fluid res. That way you can check the fluid level. Great video though as always.
this is true...but i have a bad memory
Thanks for the easy to follow explanation
No copper slip grease ?
not needed on these cars but i should have cleaned the slider pins and carrier
Good tip is unscrew bleeder screw before you squeeze piston. It avoid pushing back all black dusty brake fluid up.
Another thing is you should clean wheel hub before putting new disc.
Good for life piston is red rubber grease and for brake pads and carrier silicone grease.
Hmmm well if your brakes are in normal shape you won't be pushing any dusty fluid to system. Though I agree that it is nice way to keep them nipples in good working order and to prevent that reservoir to overflow and obviously very good idea when changing fluid at the same time.
I always clean the rust off the wheel hub before installing new brake disc so they run true. Amazing how much a small piece of rust can throw it out.
Great video Allan ,did mine today
You forgot to tell us to clean and grease the slider pins.. 😉
Great video feel confident to do mine now, thanks Alan
Would be great to pop the nuts sizes in the description to just an idea :) for everyone else 7mm allen key * 18mm hex
Alan you sound the type of geezer you can chill out with n just have. A good ol laugh
thanks
Morning Alan 😁 What a way to start the day a coffee and mondingo video from you 👍🏻 I could watch you all day mate 😆 How about Monica doing the lube job hehe 😂 Have a great day until the next video thanks Stevie 😎
lol
Very informative brav👌👌👌
Thanks a lot
I'm sat here hammering the front pads off thinking to myself, "slight wriggle my ar$e!" Good video though very helpful
Alan, you will not believe how may times people forget to pump the brake pedal... Saw shit happening one day haha
Cracking video. Hope it goes as easy for me!! 😏🤣
Good luck!
Keep up the great work! 👍
Hello Alan,
Did you get the answer for the back cutout from the pads?
It is a minor thing in the whole changing process, but it's important the right fitting. And that's why the inner pad is different: left and right.
I always thought that the brake fluid reservoir cap had a tiny pinhole in it to allow for this. It is tiny so practically no air circulation occurs saturating the brake fluid with moisture.
So these cars can’t reverse and brake?
Nope, we just back into anything that comes in our way.
LMFAO, top observation though :)
Should there not have been a small amount of threadlock applied to the carrier slider bolts?
Another great video 👍🍺
Are rear discs same to remove as front? Can’t find vid on here
That wheel was spotless, must be the drivers side. Those spokes make contact with the kerb at the same time as the tyre sidewall :(
I remember when i changed both front pads and discs on my Mk7 facelift fiesta at 15k miles odd and i had to whack 7 colours of sh*t out the passenger side disc to the point it had physically bent at the top and bottom it was that sized to the hub. All that because of a design flaw with the MK7 fiesta.
Hey Alan, can you do a video showing us how you change the rear pads/discs, notably how you tackle the electric park brake on the mk5 Mondeo?
i did this video ages ago ua-cam.com/video/Sb8vmjGTwkU/v-deo.html
Hi I'm doing these on auto mondeo same drill I presume? Should they be bled or greased ? Thanks
Caution also needed, when you drive car for the first few miles, until the brake pads bed in.
that is true... i always tell people that... just forgot to add it in the video lol
One tank's worth of kilometres, driving nice and easy, not letting them get too hot aka avoiding heavy braking. Peace.
These days many brake pads don't really need bedding in. I use Carbon Fibre X semi metallic hybrid pads now (relatively new product for commuter vehicles), around $100-120 AUD for either end of the vehicle.
Are there no wear pad wires on these?
not sure about the vignale models but i have never seen electric wear indicators on a mk5
I love this! Great stuff
Ya didn’t sling all the crap in the skip🙁
Ne’er mind! Ya managed to make a boring job fun to watch so happy days👍👍
Yeah because that's for a different skip recycling scrap metal recycled into liquid. beer tokens
i will have something for the bin next time
lol
Had our mark 5 estate done this June 2021 at 6 & 1/4 years old with original front discs pads replaced at 72,000. Had rears done annual service before, put that excessive wear down to being electric handbrake despite the mass of the braking being on the fronts discs to stop car. (Spoke to Ford about it who agreed with fronts in such good shape backs shouldn’t have been 70% worn so gave me a 50% refund on rear brake replacement that became 100% when dealer took too long to give the refund back. Very well treated by Ford 👍.)
Thank you Alain, but what is the torq for the 2 rear bolts?
Grease on the Wheelnuts??? 😳 wow, thats brave. You know the meaning of "Kraftschlüssige Verbindung"? (Frictional connection)
The basics are the best sometimes! Do you always use the Ford parts for warranty reasons or because you have a known part and not a factor who might change supplier often?
Why would you want brake dust to stick to the pads for isn't that what those sticky cardboard shims do
Think it's rare you use copper grease now it's more silicone grease
Health and safety don't like copper slip
as most of the cars are newish we have ford impressed stock mainly to use genuine parts until at least the cars are out of warranty
Hello mate do u have to change gear box oil on manual gear box if yes when on what milage thanks
Hi Alan, much appreciate the helpful tutorial videos. Do you have the part number for the motorcaft front brake discs? As my front brake pads match the part number in this video (MEDG9J-2K021-EE) on my Ford Mondeo Mk5 2.0, but my local Ford dealship are unwilling to give me the part number for the discs.
Kind regards
Will
I prefer to use copper paste instead of grease. Tolerates the heat better.
How many Nm s on the Carrier bolts ??? like... random air hammer settings ? :) :)
The F MK4 pads fit on the front. Rear of F MK3. I had rear brake disks from a Ford MK4 ... Fit like family . Alan likes
Hi
After how many miles do u have to change the brake pads and discs?
I love all your videos but!
*You didnt copper slip the pad ears
*You didn't clean the slider pins and use the special grease...
You put grease on the studs and wheel nuts but thats a super no no..
Those 2-part Ford wheel nuts are awful! After a few years water gets between the core and case, swelling it up. Then the onboard wheel brace won't fit on, so if you get a flat you won't be able to replace the wheel at the roadside. So adding some grease before that happens is certainly a very good idea. How Ford have avoided having to do a recall for these nuts I do not know!
I've had my pads done and now they rattle. Any ideas?
Just replaced the very badly worn discs and pads on my 2008 mk4, front left had cracked and I had to cut them of with a grinder.. Would have appreciated if some one had put copper grease on when they where installed. :P
On the old Mondeos they used to seize on to the hubs and you had to hammer the bastards off 😂😂😂😂😂😂
9:08 having brake fluid in your brake fluid reservoir would help too, it was empty lol
try putting your glasses on
Good video as always, would of nipped a wire brush on the hub where the disc meets. Good as always though.
I think the arrows are to stop brake squeal
Those white latex gloves are so retro I hated them but it's better to be safe and put a bag on them
The torque is not 110 NM. You need 135 NM of torque for your wheels
You need 135NM of torque for the wheels and not 110 NM torque.
Depends on the specific wheel nuts used
Hi Alan
I've now got my discs and pads to fit.
I noticed you didn't use any copper grease on backs of the pads.
can I just put them in as you did?
Only reason I ask is I've always put grease on my pads.
Cheers
Jon
hi jon, i don't see any point in putting copper grease on the backs of the pads..if i were to use copper grease it would be where the pad sits in the carrier but on the mk5 mondeo i have never had pads seizing in the carrier so i don't use the grease
@@alan4x Hi
Thanks for that Cheers buddy😃
Hi Alan,
can you let me know the torque for the two types of screws, please?
Ten głąb nie ma pojęcia. 100nm
Hate to be that guy but the wheels torque is 135NM for the MK5 mondeo.. great video though!
it gets confusing lol i think there is a choise of torques depending what type of wheel nuts are being used but thanks
Wheel nuts 135NM not 110NM
I recently did the discs and pads on my car, it took me forever to put that clip back on. I had a good choice of swear words that I used...
Good job , but you should never grease the wheel nut studs
I would have thought you would have greased the slider pin and clean the the carrier and greased the back of the pad. Sorry to pick but it is safety. Other wise a great video.
Hi Alan. I've got a mk4.5. Got the car with ATE brakes and the pads were clunking even at the slightest brake in reverse, clunk bank with the first brake going forward and go away. I've changed disc and pads, again with ATE. And enjoyed the silence for about 2 weeks, and these one started clunking also. What's going on? Could I get 2 bad ATE sets? They are new, so I'm not throwing anymore money on this. But have you ever got this issue?
hi alex...no never come across you issue
although I'm no expert, but regarding brake pad directionality you mention at 5:07, it might be that the contact pattern between the metal plate and the friction material can be somewhat directional - stronger in one direction. I'm referring to this video that I saw about how the pads are made: ua-cam.com/video/H1WXlHONorw/v-deo.html
cheers
My Rotor Brakes wont come off 😕 It‘s a Mondeo MK5
Did you watch Liverpool beat chelsea 5-4 on penalties
🤣 Easy-peaay job ,? -only if you have an air gun!!. Nearly broke my fingers trying to get the caliper bolts off manually, as when car is on the floor (typical home garage/roadside) you have little room for a breaker bar. And also for crying out loud, why doe Euro cars use allen keys for the pad carrier bolts? Everybody else uses good old bolts, no need for buying a set of Allen keys as I did! Good video
cheers joss, happy new year
😎
😁
👍
Alan. Naughty. Naughty. No lub on slider. Ha-Ha
My Mk3 discs came down as easly as show in this video. O.o
wish your vito was mine
😊
Al you should clean and grease the sliders mate.
you don't grease those sliders but i forgot to clean them
It's like in mk4 Mondeo.
Tankiou
salamat po abderrahim😊
Greese the proper place on calipers and not the wheel bolts
Keyboard hero hahaha
Water pump or slip-joint pliers for the spring clip ua-cam.com/video/WawDO7DcH54/v-deo.html
👰
Non in italiano...
looks just like BMW brakes
Мову не розумію але все зрозуміло! Дякую!!!
😄