It took me about 20 minutes to install it on my own. As long as you can lift it out the box and up into position you’re good. I did have to break the box to get it out as it was a snug fit. I followed the installation video on you tube which was a big help. I added this to support central air in my house that was struggling upstairs because of my house design. Lovely unit. Very quiet ua-cam.com/users/postUgkx_hHgTlzH3uk31Fe2RVS3xEbXHGaN_z5T and looks sharp. Had it in a couple of weeks and so far so good. It’s cooling a bedroom about 25ft X 15 no problem at all.
Excellent info. However, you missed the a/c evaporator part too. Those also go bad and that is located deep inside of the dash. What I cannot understand is the shop I brought my vehicle may have missed this. This is after having the compressor, drier and a bunch of other parts replaced. A/C went hot again. I am waiting for the shop to tell me the verdict and tell me the evaporator is bad. In this case, the shop is fired as they should have found this the first go around. This means I will do the job myself, which I didn’t want to, and find another shop to recharge the system. My trust with shops are shot.
A metering devices like a small hole. Which we call an expansion valve. The expansion valve can fail in two ways it can either stick open or it can stick closed so you can imagine either you have a small hole or the hole is clogged. If the hole is completely open then everything will be working but you won't get any high pressure or low pressure. Because the compressor has the push-and-pull against a metering device expansion valve small hole. And the other way the metering device expansion valve fails if it's stuck closed then you get a high pressure in a low pressure but you get no cooling.
I took my vehicle to a mechanic shop because the AC unit was blowing hot...then cold air. They did a diagnostic [the said] and found that the Schrader valve was bad. They replaced the valve. But I continued to have the same problem. After the third time I returned to the shop, they told me that they found metal in my AC compressor. It would cost me an additional $2000 to replace the compressor. I already paid 900 bucks to have the Schrader valve replaced. Something smells fishy ya think?
You didn’t mention the number one indicator of a bad TXV which is the high and low side not equalizing when the engine is turned off how could you possibly miss that
But my pressure are equalized with the system off and still having problems with compressor rattling noise leading me to think still might be the expansion valve. Military A/C unit with Copeland scroll compressor and reading 250psi each side low and high with unit off
What about this. On a 2011 BMW 328i when the AC is on and the engine running as the AC stays on longer meaning after 2-5min a rhythmic humming/vibration noise appears. Go away as soon as AC is turned off. I did add one small can of refrigerant a few months ago because it seemed to. It be cold enough. That did fix the cooling issue but the noise was present before and after adding the can. What do you think this noise might be?
Sir I have doubt My Nissan Pathfinder 2004 Ac was good working from last week coming hot from ac for three days. After three days start to work perfectly until yesterday night. Then today coming hot air. My doubt is , if expansion valve is fault condenser cooling fan will not work? (Nissan Pathfinder r50 has separate cooling fan for condenser)
If the compressor is making noise, not engaging under full charge, leaking or has no pressure changes when engaged it's probably the compressor. On some vehicles a stuck closed expansion valve can cause a system go into a vacuum, making it seem like it's the compressor when it really is just the valve.
In my experience when the compressor dies you'll have really high low side pressure readings (think 60+ psi). I am fighting what I am thinking is a bad xpan valve in my Ford currently
I've had real trouble trying to diagnose taking it to a shop. I'm getting a rhythmic hissing noise from the vents that is on 100% of the time the second you turn on the fan. Either with heat or cold. A/C blows icy cold, just the sound as a symptom. This has been a symptom the last 8 months so I doubt there is a leak. It's driving me nuts!
So I got a 2000 model Isuzu pile up truck the small hose not the big on it gets very hot isthat normal the tank gets cold but that hose the small one get very hot
Can you tell me why my evaporator blower is not rotating? Also, the blend door is not working at the bottom right side of passenger side in the front. I had to put a new reservoir to get my vents to blow air but the front still won’t blow air. And the air that comes out the back top vents is at 90 degrees and sometimes 78 or 75. My ac has not worked for a few years.
SO I HAVE A 2001 EXCURSION V10. AC NOT THAT COLD. DID A VACUUM AND RECHARGE. NO CHANGE EVERYTIME I STOP IT STARTS BLOWING WARMER. SO I REPLACED EVERYTHING NEW WITH LOW AND HI SIDE SENSORS. I USED 4 CANS OF FLUSH TO CLEAN ALL PARTS. JUST FOR IT TO ACT THE SAME. SE I DID IT ALL AGAIN. THE SAME ISSUE. WHAT COULD IT BE??? PLEASE HELP. THE REAR IS EXACTLY THE SAME AS THE FRONT SO I WOULDN'T THINK ITS A EVAP PROBLEM THAT I DIDN'T REPLACE
My neighbor has 2010ford edge ,she had them replace the engine 5 months ago ,and ever since then she keeps popping the ac connection line ,i put a can of freon in it a. Started blowing really cold when we shut it down like 10 minutes after we heard a loud pow , when i checked ac the line was poped off clean
Do you help troubleshoot? 2014 Infiniti QX60 hybrid. Only blowing hot air. The compressor was recently replaced, and the system recharged. It's still blowing hot air. When you turn the AC system on, and the compressor comes on, after a minute or two the high pressure line feels cold to the touch. No frost anywhere though. Any ideas?
My E36 AC is freezing up if the green light is not on. Though if the green light is on it works fine. It also seems when I park the car in the hot Malaysian sun the AC works fine if its parked in the cindo it can take 30mins or more foe the light to come on and work properly.
@@RolandoMartino-s4r What if high side says 425 psi? What possible item(s) of hardware would not let the refrigerant through into the evaporator and create excess pressure because THIS guy says pressure side high pressure readings could not be a clogged X-valve?
I think that's my problem... I add it and it works for couple minutes or 1hr then it stops... Now you said if both high and low hoses are warm then its the expansion valve.... Because i have no leaks... I add 20lbs amd the next day its showing 60-90 psi and it stops working
I hate to bother you but I'm having trouble getting my wife's mom's car ac fixed.. here is what is going on. The compressor is on , clutch engaged I have roughly 90 psi on the suction line with it being the same temp on the high side. Would you assume expansion valve or faulty compressor? Any help would be appreciated
I don't think that if you have the inconsistent A/C (which requires Freon to get cold) could be as a result of a leak for any prolonged period of time anyway as eventually the Freon would leak out (say at the expansion valve or other) and it would never get get back to being cold, correct? I had a problem w/ this inconsistent symptom, they checked for leaks, vacuum tested it, ran the dye throughm, and added a little more Freon. Shortly after going again...the symptom of inconsistency was the same...and then they wanted an additional $300 more to replace the valve...which was the symptom to begin with. I would think that while the valve could leak, having low Freon would not provide this symptom...just saying.
The gauges should show this on the high , and low sides. Gauges are my best Friend. Cleaning the evaporator,if you can get to it, and condenser first if no leaks are present.
I’m having a similar problem. I’ll completely empty the system and when I try to fill it it’ll literally say it’s completely full after barely putting anything in. So I’m assuming there’s a blockage somewhere. Not sure if there’s a more common place to check for blockages. Any recommendations would be appreciated. Btw I’ve already checked all fuses/ relays. I also checked high side pressure switch which happened to not be closed. Thought I figured it out. Replaced that and it’s still not closing. So I’m not getting enough pressure on high side for switch to close even tho when I put gauge on it says it’s completely filled. Any info would be appreciated!
Interesting video. My AC seems to be cooling as intended however when driving my AC vent in passenger side makes a hissing noise. It does not make that noise when car is idle. What could it be?
I hooked up my gauges to high and low side. Turned ac on but low was at 20 psi and high at 100 psi. Compressor stays engaged. Blows hot air. I tried unplugging low pressure switch and compressor disengaged. What do you recommend checking next? TIA.
I’m having a similar problem. I’ll completely empty the system and when I try to fill it it’ll literally say it’s completely full after barely putting anything in. So I’m assuming there’s a blockage somewhere. Not sure if there’s a more common place to check for blockages. Any recommendations would be appreciated. Btw I’ve already checked all fuses/ relays. I also checked high side pressure switch which happened to not be closed. Thought I figured it out. Replaced that and it’s still not closing. So I’m not getting enough pressure on high side for switch to close even tho when I put gauge on it says it’s completely filled. Any info would be appreciated!
I changed expansion valve both and ac drier and the hose line on the top, also air blowers I replaced but still I have AC problems, it works for an hour good then start freezing the hose will stop work the Ac, so what is the problem do you think with my AC Volvo d13 2012
need help, my nissan juke a/c blowing an cfc odor just in the driver vents side (im pretty sure its Cfc odor, because i did several works on my home a/c with cfc before), on the passager a/c vents its 100% odorless. And my a/c is working properly, the climate control just working as it normaly would. Have anyone had this kind experince before?
Check freon Check cabin filter Check evaporator is not dirty- Use foam cleaner Redo freon by recovering And then put a deep vacuum & recharge Check compressor on cycling clutch issues
I’m having a similar problem. I’ll completely empty the system and when I try to fill it it’ll literally say it’s completely full after barely putting anything in. So I’m assuming there’s a blockage somewhere. Not sure if there’s a more common place to check for blockages. Any recommendations would be appreciated. Btw I’ve already checked all fuses/ relays. I also checked high side pressure switch which happened to not be closed. Thought I figured it out. Replaced that and it’s still not closing. So I’m not getting enough pressure on high side for switch to close even tho when I put gauge on it says it’s completely filled. Any info would be appreciated!
I have problem with a/c system. When i turn on i hear quiet noisy(gurgle, murmur) from my dashboard. Passengers can hear too. Car Has 4 Years. I check how many grams od gas i have. Its ok.
Great info bro, I have a question btw. My car ac is not cold it's just blowing cool. On a 100f weather my ac blows at 80f. But during a 80f weathet it blows at 62-65f. I check the high and low side and one is hot and cold. Also check for leaks and there's zero. I replace my lines, evaporator, drier, and got a used condenser from junkyard. Any idea why my ac not cold. Lmk please thanks.
@Top5AutoRepairs thanks for the reply. I also recharge the system and flush it/ recharge and still not cold. Could a blower motor resistor cause ac not to be cold. My 1 and 2 is dead but 3-4 works. Or could it be my after market headers causing the ac not to be cold. My headers like half a cm away from the low side line. Not sure if that would cause it.
@@AbelG8781 Abel, did you diagnose with manifold gauges? Still working well? Did you change out only the expansion valve and vacuumed out the system and recharged to spec? Thanks...
My standibg pressure is 120 psi. Compressor clutch works and compressor seems to try to do its job. But low side drops by a few psi and vibrates very noticeably. High side stays at 120 and vibrates but not as much. Im thinkibg blockage rather than bad compressor. Perhaps expansion valve? What do you think?edit. My problem was clutch engaged but on inspection centre bolt not turning. Rusted out. Replaced clutch parts and now ok.
I’m having a similar problem. I’ll completely empty the system and when I try to fill it it’ll literally say it’s completely full after barely putting anything in. So I’m assuming there’s a blockage somewhere. Not sure if there’s a more common place to check for blockages. Any recommendations would be appreciated. Btw I’ve already checked all fuses/ relays. I also checked high side pressure switch which happened to not be closed. Thought I figured it out. Replaced that and it’s still not closing. So I’m not getting enough pressure on high side for switch to close even tho when I put gauge on it says it’s completely filled. Any info would be appreciated!
@@Lunchmeat18 for me compressor clutch clickes in and rotates but on front on view it was noticed the centre bolt was not spinning. Rusted. After changing clutch components all ok now. The reason you might get blockages is because the pistons are still and blocking the passage. Check compressor clutch is ctually spinning that centre bolt.
@@Swenser my AC clutch doesn’t engage. I guess that would make sense why I can’t get enough pressure on high side because it can’t get by the piston in the compressor? Is that something that can happen? Or is there a more common or some place cheaper I can check for blockage before I go replacing the compressor?
Awesome tips. What if I have a sweet smell from my vent, then I lose freon all together? Could that happen with Expansion Valve Would it be Evaporator? AC guy has changed all O rings in line and says I don't have a leak but that it "could" be my Evaporator and that is a full complete removal of the Dash which is quite an insane job. Thanks for sharing.
@@ELEVOPR I've been told that things are impossible many times, right before I do it, but I'm not looking at one so whatever. You have an "AC guy" so that means I'm not about to take your opinion to begin with.
@@kreepingdeth198 Post a video, showing you can do it without removing the dash, Me impossible 😂 I don't need an AC guy to remove the Dash, but the AC guys needs to have the skills to remove the dash as that's not really his expertise. Let me know when you posted it or just 🤐
I'm sorry you don't know what your doing. Must suck having no skills. I literally just pulled an evaporator out through the glove box on a nissan yesterday.
Hi buddy. My chevrolet Sonic just keep cool air for a week then just Hot air get in the cabine, when I check the liquid line is Cold and the suction line is enviroment temperature so, do you think it is a expation valve problem or lack of freon due a some leake? Thanks in advance.
@@ddrigmaidenI have the same problem but I recently just changed the condenser. When on Idle, idk if it’s the compressor but it keeps turning off and on, and when for those few seconds that it’s cycling, it throws cold air, as soon as I drive it throws cold air. Is there an electric problem? Or can it also be the expansion valve?
I’m having a similar problem. I’ll completely empty the system and when I try to fill it it’ll literally say it’s completely full after barely putting anything in. So I’m assuming there’s a blockage somewhere. Not sure if there’s a more common place to check for blockages. Any recommendations would be appreciated. Btw I’ve already checked all fuses/ relays. I also checked high side pressure switch which happened to not be closed. Thought I figured it out. Replaced that and it’s still not closing. So I’m not getting enough pressure on high side for switch to close even tho when I put gauge on it says it’s completely filled. Any info would be appreciated!
@@ddrigmaiden I didn’t vacuum it out but I basically tried to purge it by letting air out the high side and was able to get an entire bottle in the low side but still am not getting enough pressure at the high side switch for it to close so my clutch and compressor don’t start running
I’m having a similar problem. I’ll completely empty the system and when I try to fill it it’ll literally say it’s completely full after barely putting anything in. So I’m assuming there’s a blockage somewhere. Not sure if there’s a more common place to check for blockages. Any recommendations would be appreciated. Btw I’ve already checked all fuses/ relays. I also checked high side pressure switch which happened to not be closed. Thought I figured it out. Replaced that and it’s still not closing. So I’m not getting enough pressure on high side for switch to close even tho when I put gauge on it says it’s completely filled. Any info would be appreciated!
Good explanation of the expansion valve
Wow we've got a "New Sheriff in Town" great information
It took me about 20 minutes to install it on my own. As long as you can lift it out the box and up into position you’re good. I did have to break the box to get it out as it was a snug fit. I followed the installation video on you tube which was a big help. I added this to support central air in my house that was struggling upstairs because of my house design. Lovely unit. Very quiet ua-cam.com/users/postUgkx_hHgTlzH3uk31Fe2RVS3xEbXHGaN_z5T and looks sharp. Had it in a couple of weeks and so far so good. It’s cooling a bedroom about 25ft X 15 no problem at all.
Best explanation of the theory of operation of the AC expansion valve. Thorough and easily understood.
Explained like a pro
Very nicely explained
Thank you are very clear on the descriptions.
Excellent info. However, you missed the a/c evaporator part too. Those also go bad and that is located deep inside of the dash. What I cannot understand is the shop I brought my vehicle may have missed this. This is after having the compressor, drier and a bunch of other parts replaced. A/C went hot again. I am waiting for the shop to tell me the verdict and tell me the evaporator is bad. In this case, the shop is fired as they should have found this the first go around. This means I will do the job myself, which I didn’t want to, and find another shop to recharge the system. My trust with shops are shot.
Same boat. If you want it done right do it yourself. Is what it is
Very useful, right to the point
Glad it was helpful!
A metering devices like a small hole. Which we call an expansion valve. The expansion valve can fail in two ways it can either stick open or it can stick closed so you can imagine either you have a small hole or the hole is clogged. If the hole is completely open then everything will be working but you won't get any high pressure or low pressure. Because the compressor has the push-and-pull against a metering device expansion valve small hole. And the other way the metering device expansion valve fails if it's stuck closed then you get a high pressure in a low pressure but you get no cooling.
I took my vehicle to a mechanic shop because the AC unit was blowing hot...then cold air. They did a diagnostic [the said] and found that the Schrader valve was bad. They replaced the valve. But I continued to have the same problem. After the third time I returned to the shop, they told me that they found metal in my AC compressor. It would cost me an additional $2000 to replace the compressor. I already paid 900 bucks to have the Schrader valve replaced. Something smells fishy ya think?
You didn’t mention the number one indicator of a bad TXV which is the high and low side not equalizing when the engine is turned off how could you possibly miss that
But my pressure are equalized with the system off and still having problems with compressor rattling noise leading me to think still might be the expansion valve. Military A/C unit with Copeland scroll compressor and reading 250psi each side low and high with unit off
Thanks for the info this really helped me know exactly were to start
This not really a good place to start.
How can I know if it’s my expansion valve or blend door actuator? My ac blows cold but has its own mind of its own.
Will a bad expansion valve cause for ac to come out cold i did notice the relay gets warm clutch turns on but not on and off just stays on
What about this. On a 2011 BMW 328i when the AC is on and the engine running as the AC stays on longer meaning after 2-5min a rhythmic humming/vibration noise appears. Go away as soon as AC is turned off. I did add one small can of refrigerant a few months ago because it seemed to. It be cold enough. That did fix the cooling issue but the noise was present before and after adding the can. What do you think this noise might be?
I found it more than useful
Good Advice nicely explained
Sir I have doubt
My Nissan Pathfinder 2004
Ac was good working from last week coming hot from ac for three days. After three days start to work perfectly until yesterday night. Then today coming hot air.
My doubt is , if expansion valve is fault condenser cooling fan will not work? (Nissan Pathfinder r50 has separate cooling fan for condenser)
How about hearing a bubbling sounds when the ac is on
Awesome explanation, where can I find location of orifice tube on 2013 Nissan sentra.
Very informative!
thank you sir! very informative
What is the torque for expansion valve bolts?
Seems that by 2023, they should have come out with a simple ac system.
In many scenarios, simple doesn’t equal cost effective, especially in large scale manufacturing
Is there a major difference between a bad compressor and bad valve?
If the compressor is making noise, not engaging under full charge, leaking or has no pressure changes when engaged it's probably the compressor. On some vehicles a stuck closed expansion valve can cause a system go into a vacuum, making it seem like it's the compressor when it really is just the valve.
In my experience when the compressor dies you'll have really high low side pressure readings (think 60+ psi). I am fighting what I am thinking is a bad xpan valve in my Ford currently
@@dfrmotorsports4591 I got it fixed. It was the compressor
@@dfrmotorsports4591 same here, fford 😂 , ford focus 2016
@@z7z7d in my card it was a bad UAC expansion valve, installed a new motorcraft expansion valve and it's back to amazing cooling again
I've had real trouble trying to diagnose taking it to a shop. I'm getting a rhythmic hissing noise from the vents that is on 100% of the time the second you turn on the fan. Either with heat or cold. A/C blows icy cold, just the sound as a symptom. This has been a symptom the last 8 months so I doubt there is a leak. It's driving me nuts!
Hissing noise? And hissing stops the moment I turn the steering wheel a bit to any side?
Really good information, thatnk you!!!!!
What if ac blows cold an good air pressure but after running ac for a while it’s no longer cold an air pressure is low?
I have the same symptom with mine ac ....the ac will blows cold again after over night stop ...then blows hot after running 2-3 km..
So I got a 2000 model Isuzu pile up truck the small hose not the big on it gets very hot isthat normal the tank gets cold but that hose the small one get very hot
What about a hissing sound while the vehicle is in idle ?
Hello. Check for vacuum leak
Check for vacuum leak right at the intake manifold gasket area, vacuum hoses, throttle body gasket, brake booster, etc...
@@Top5AutoRepairs it’s only hissing when I turn on the a/c and or heat when in idle. The noise will stay on while driving if I just have the ac on .
Can you tell me why my evaporator blower is not rotating? Also, the blend door is not working at the bottom right side of passenger side in the front. I had to put a new reservoir to get my vents to blow air but the front still won’t blow air. And the air that comes out the back top vents is at 90 degrees and sometimes 78 or 75. My ac has not worked for a few years.
Pls what about if the liquid line freeze and the low pressure side is not freezing
SO I HAVE A 2001 EXCURSION V10. AC NOT THAT COLD. DID A VACUUM AND RECHARGE. NO CHANGE EVERYTIME I STOP IT STARTS BLOWING WARMER.
SO I REPLACED EVERYTHING NEW WITH LOW AND HI SIDE SENSORS. I USED 4 CANS OF FLUSH TO CLEAN ALL PARTS. JUST FOR IT TO ACT THE SAME. SE I DID IT ALL AGAIN. THE SAME ISSUE. WHAT COULD IT BE??? PLEASE HELP.
THE REAR IS EXACTLY THE SAME AS THE FRONT SO I WOULDN'T THINK ITS A EVAP PROBLEM THAT I DIDN'T REPLACE
My neighbor has 2010ford edge ,she had them replace the engine 5 months ago ,and ever since then she keeps popping the ac connection line ,i put a can of freon in it a. Started blowing really cold when we shut it down like 10 minutes after we heard a loud pow , when i checked ac the line was poped off clean
Do you help troubleshoot?
2014 Infiniti QX60 hybrid. Only blowing hot air. The compressor was recently replaced, and the system recharged. It's still blowing hot air. When you turn the AC system on, and the compressor comes on, after a minute or two the high pressure line feels cold to the touch. No frost anywhere though.
Any ideas?
Thank you, bro.
Where you from sir?
where are you located I want you to fix my ac for me i have a 97 4runner that and the ac freon only cold to the expansion
My E36 AC is freezing up if the green light is not on. Though if the green light is on it works fine. It also seems when I park the car in the hot Malaysian sun the AC works fine if its parked in the cindo it can take 30mins or more foe the light to come on and work properly.
If it's not blowing cold at all and the Gass in the system has no leak?
Big thanks!!
You a beast my boi ❤❤
Thanks for the tips!
Like how you get to the point
Can the gauges show any indicative readings for a bad exp valve.
No
@@RolandoMartino-s4r What if high side says 425 psi? What possible item(s) of hardware would not let the refrigerant through into the evaporator and create excess pressure because THIS guy says pressure side high pressure readings could not be a clogged X-valve?
I think that's my problem... I add it and it works for couple minutes or 1hr then it stops... Now you said if both high and low hoses are warm then its the expansion valve.... Because i have no leaks... I add 20lbs amd the next day its showing 60-90 psi and it stops working
Miata1993 with the a/c on 15 minutes the compressor star on and off and my idle from 1000 to 2000 how can I fix? Thanks
Thanks.
Inject dye into your A/C system.
Get your "black light" out.
😎
High pressure line is too much hot and low pressure line is normal.. what is the causes
I hate to bother you but I'm having trouble getting my wife's mom's car ac fixed.. here is what is going on.
The compressor is on , clutch engaged I have roughly 90 psi on the suction line with it being the same temp on the high side. Would you assume expansion valve or faulty compressor?
Any help would be appreciated
You ever figure it out? Going threw the same thing
@@BryanRosas-t7b it was the expansion valve. Compressor was weak, so got it changed as well
My ac stops blowing cold air when it comes to a stop what could that be ?
I don't think that if you have the inconsistent A/C (which requires Freon to get cold) could be as a result of a leak for any prolonged period of time anyway as eventually the Freon would leak out (say at the expansion valve or other) and it would never get get back to being cold, correct? I had a problem w/ this inconsistent symptom, they checked for leaks, vacuum tested it, ran the dye throughm, and added a little more Freon. Shortly after going again...the symptom of inconsistency was the same...and then they wanted an additional $300 more to replace the valve...which was the symptom to begin with. I would think that while the valve could leak, having low Freon would not provide this symptom...just saying.
The gauges should show this on the high , and low sides. Gauges are my best Friend. Cleaning the evaporator,if you can get to it, and condenser first if no leaks are present.
I’m having a similar problem. I’ll completely empty the system and when I try to fill it it’ll literally say it’s completely full after barely putting anything in. So I’m assuming there’s a blockage somewhere. Not sure if there’s a more common place to check for blockages. Any recommendations would be appreciated. Btw I’ve already checked all fuses/ relays. I also checked high side pressure switch which happened to not be closed. Thought I figured it out. Replaced that and it’s still not closing. So I’m not getting enough pressure on high side for switch to close even tho when I put gauge on it says it’s completely filled. Any info would be appreciated!
thank you @@koden24
Interesting video. My AC seems to be cooling as intended however when driving my AC vent in passenger side makes a hissing noise. It does not make that noise when car is idle. What could it be?
Normal
I hooked up my gauges to high and low side. Turned ac on but low was at 20 psi and high at 100 psi. Compressor stays engaged. Blows hot air. I tried unplugging low pressure switch and compressor disengaged. What do you recommend checking next? TIA.
The compressor doesn’t cycle at all. Just stays engaged. Pressure stays the same for high and low.
Are your low side lines cold? Make sure your heater is turning off and that you're getting good air flow
I’m having a similar problem. I’ll completely empty the system and when I try to fill it it’ll literally say it’s completely full after barely putting anything in. So I’m assuming there’s a blockage somewhere. Not sure if there’s a more common place to check for blockages. Any recommendations would be appreciated. Btw I’ve already checked all fuses/ relays. I also checked high side pressure switch which happened to not be closed. Thought I figured it out. Replaced that and it’s still not closing. So I’m not getting enough pressure on high side for switch to close even tho when I put gauge on it says it’s completely filled. Any info would be appreciated!
I changed expansion valve both and ac drier and the hose line on the top, also air blowers I replaced but still I have AC problems, it works for an hour good then start freezing the hose will stop work the Ac, so what is the problem do you think with my AC Volvo d13 2012
Probably ac temperature sensor
what if the high side line feels warm and the low side line feels room temp
is it possible to change the system from r744 to 1234
need help, my nissan juke a/c blowing an cfc odor just in the driver vents side (im pretty sure its Cfc odor, because i did several works on my home a/c with cfc before), on the passager a/c vents its 100% odorless. And my a/c is working properly, the climate control just working as it normaly would. Have anyone had this kind experince before?
Check ya ac pressure value it might be loose to
my ac blows cold in the morning while in shade, if i parked on direct sunlight it only blows air. can that be a bad condenser or the valve?
Check freon
Check cabin filter
Check evaporator is not dirty-
Use foam cleaner
Redo freon by recovering
And then put a deep vacuum & recharge
Check compressor on cycling clutch issues
I’m having a similar problem. I’ll completely empty the system and when I try to fill it it’ll literally say it’s completely full after barely putting anything in. So I’m assuming there’s a blockage somewhere. Not sure if there’s a more common place to check for blockages. Any recommendations would be appreciated. Btw I’ve already checked all fuses/ relays. I also checked high side pressure switch which happened to not be closed. Thought I figured it out. Replaced that and it’s still not closing. So I’m not getting enough pressure on high side for switch to close even tho when I put gauge on it says it’s completely filled. Any info would be appreciated!
Mine did the same, changed out expansion valve and now it blows 39° inside
I have problem with a/c system. When i turn on i hear quiet noisy(gurgle, murmur) from my dashboard. Passengers can hear too. Car Has 4 Years. I check how many grams od gas i have. Its ok.
Did you get it sorted?
Great info bro, I have a question btw. My car ac is not cold it's just blowing cool. On a 100f weather my ac blows at 80f. But during a 80f weathet it blows at 62-65f. I check the high and low side and one is hot and cold. Also check for leaks and there's zero. I replace my lines, evaporator, drier, and got a used condenser from junkyard. Any idea why my ac not cold. Lmk please thanks.
Check the sight glass on the receiver drier. It should be clear and slightly bubble a bit. If it bubbles a lot then refrigerant is low.
On my Sentra, I changed out the expansion valve.....car is blowing penguins now in 100° temps
@Top5AutoRepairs thanks for the reply. I also recharge the system and flush it/ recharge and still not cold. Could a blower motor resistor cause ac not to be cold. My 1 and 2 is dead but 3-4 works. Or could it be my after market headers causing the ac not to be cold. My headers like half a cm away from the low side line. Not sure if that would cause it.
@@AbelG8781 Abel, did you diagnose with manifold gauges? Still working well? Did you change out only the expansion valve and vacuumed out the system and recharged to spec? Thanks...
Thanks kuya 🙏
My standibg pressure is 120 psi. Compressor clutch works and compressor seems to try to do its job. But low side drops by a few psi and vibrates very noticeably. High side stays at 120 and vibrates but not as much. Im thinkibg blockage rather than bad compressor. Perhaps expansion valve? What do you think?edit. My problem was clutch engaged but on inspection centre bolt not turning. Rusted out. Replaced clutch parts and now ok.
I’m having a similar problem. I’ll completely empty the system and when I try to fill it it’ll literally say it’s completely full after barely putting anything in. So I’m assuming there’s a blockage somewhere. Not sure if there’s a more common place to check for blockages. Any recommendations would be appreciated. Btw I’ve already checked all fuses/ relays. I also checked high side pressure switch which happened to not be closed. Thought I figured it out. Replaced that and it’s still not closing. So I’m not getting enough pressure on high side for switch to close even tho when I put gauge on it says it’s completely filled. Any info would be appreciated!
@@Lunchmeat18 for me compressor clutch clickes in and rotates but on front on view it was noticed the centre bolt was not spinning. Rusted. After changing clutch components all ok now. The reason you might get blockages is because the pistons are still and blocking the passage. Check compressor clutch is ctually spinning that centre bolt.
@@Swenser my AC clutch doesn’t engage. I guess that would make sense why I can’t get enough pressure on high side because it can’t get by the piston in the compressor? Is that something that can happen? Or is there a more common or some place cheaper I can check for blockage before I go replacing the compressor?
@@Lunchmeat18 my replies get deleted. Probably not compressor. Maybe only clutch needs repair or 12 v supply to it needs diagnosing
Awesome tips. What if I have a sweet smell from my vent, then I lose freon all together? Could that happen with Expansion Valve Would it be Evaporator? AC guy has changed all O rings in line and says I don't have a leak but that it "could" be my Evaporator and that is a full complete removal of the Dash which is quite an insane job.
Thanks for sharing.
Most cars, if you know what your doing, you can get around removing the dash, just have to work through the glove box compartment
@@kreepingdeth198 Not a 2005-2021 Nissan Frontier , Xterra or Pathfinder. It's impossible..
@@ELEVOPR I've been told that things are impossible many times, right before I do it, but I'm not looking at one so whatever. You have an "AC guy" so that means I'm not about to take your opinion to begin with.
@@kreepingdeth198 Post a video, showing you can do it without removing the dash, Me impossible 😂
I don't need an AC guy to remove the Dash, but the AC guys needs to have the skills to remove the dash as that's not really his expertise.
Let me know when you posted it or just 🤐
I'm sorry you don't know what your doing. Must suck having no skills. I literally just pulled an evaporator out through the glove box on a nissan yesterday.
The high line is supposed to be cold and low line is supposed to be warm….
My 2012 scion xb 106k miles takes 5 minutes to blow cold air
Thank you for sharing that with us
Hi buddy.
My chevrolet Sonic just keep cool air for a week then just Hot air get in the cabine, when I check the liquid line is Cold and the suction line is enviroment temperature so, do you think it is a expation valve problem or lack of freon due a some leake? Thanks in advance.
My ac works when the rain is falling or when im driving.
@@ddrigmaidenI have the same problem but I recently just changed the condenser. When on Idle, idk if it’s the compressor but it keeps turning off and on, and when for those few seconds that it’s cycling, it throws cold air, as soon as I drive it throws cold air. Is there an electric problem? Or can it also be the expansion valve?
I’m having a similar problem. I’ll completely empty the system and when I try to fill it it’ll literally say it’s completely full after barely putting anything in. So I’m assuming there’s a blockage somewhere. Not sure if there’s a more common place to check for blockages. Any recommendations would be appreciated. Btw I’ve already checked all fuses/ relays. I also checked high side pressure switch which happened to not be closed. Thought I figured it out. Replaced that and it’s still not closing. So I’m not getting enough pressure on high side for switch to close even tho when I put gauge on it says it’s completely filled. Any info would be appreciated!
@@ddrigmaiden I didn’t vacuum it out but I basically tried to purge it by letting air out the high side and was able to get an entire bottle in the low side but still am not getting enough pressure at the high side switch for it to close so my clutch and compressor don’t start running
I’m having a similar problem. I’ll completely empty the system and when I try to fill it it’ll literally say it’s completely full after barely putting anything in. So I’m assuming there’s a blockage somewhere. Not sure if there’s a more common place to check for blockages. Any recommendations would be appreciated. Btw I’ve already checked all fuses/ relays. I also checked high side pressure switch which happened to not be closed. Thought I figured it out. Replaced that and it’s still not closing. So I’m not getting enough pressure on high side for switch to close even tho when I put gauge on it says it’s completely filled. Any info would be appreciated!
Have you figured this out yet? I have a Honda accord that seems to be doing the same thing