Thank you so much for these videos! I've had my Mazda for a year, and had to do pretty much every job you've done a video about. :) Thanks for helping a girl fix her car!
Got the passenger and trans mount installed, and it feels awesome! I left the center poly bolt loose on the passenger side and placed a level on the valve cover to make sure it was in fact level. I then just torqued the center bolt last to 50 ft. lbs. Thanks for the vid!
Rich, thanks a lot for the vid. As a thank you, here are the proper torque specs from page 01-10A-28 in the official Mazda shop manual. #1 - Rear Torque Mount: 68.7-85.9 (both bolts) #3 - Passenger Side Mount: 55.0-77.3 ft-lbs (bolts and nuts) #4 - Transmission Mount: 61.7-83.5 ft-lbs (bolt) For those who love their torque wrenches, here are the battery bracket torque specs. Notice the bolts are in in-lbs (divide by 12 for ft-lbs). Battery Bracket: 61.1-86.7 in-lbs (bolts), 32.5-44.9 ft-lbs (nuts)
Omgoodness, I was told 50 b - 70 n lb-ft for #3 PMM, wondering if this could be why I have small lingering vibration mostly while in gear. Nevertheless I thank you for taking the time to share much needed specs 😊
I just did this yesterday , thanks for the walkthrough . I couldn't do the bottom one because my jack stands sink in asphalt of my parking spot,( I don't really have a driveway ) and my car glided sideways. Good thing nothing got damage. Thank you
6:55 good info. i mix my bolts up every now and then when i am in a hurry . the vids I've watched never say which one is which. usually have to watch a few to see if i can figure out which one goes where. definitely a bummer and a strain on me eyes!
according to another forum, there are two different center bolts used by Mazda, there may be a "8" or "10" on the bolt head. "8" 62-84 foot pound "10" 96-113 foot pound.
Just tackled this today on my 07 Mazda 3 2.3L with 95,000 miles by using this video. Only took about 2 hours with breaks. Thanks for the video! Great help. I'm a little worried I didn't tighten the bolts on that passenger side mount enough. I got them as tight as I could using a socket wrench but didn't use a box wrench. The rattling I used to get at stop lights is now gone, so that's a plus. Just hope the engine doesn't fall out from not having those bolts tight enough haha.
Hello there I have a 2007 Mazda 3 hatchback and I'm having problems with my a/c compressor and I was wondering if you know of any good links or videos that i can watch to learn. I recently saw your video about how to change the motor mounts and i really liked it i got to learn a lot so thank you for that video. Can you also recommend me a link to where i can buy my parts please and thank u.
Mine just showed up and I'll be replacing the broken #3 and not broken trans mount I have, just like yours. Slooooooow shipping but they look real nice. Are you still liking yours?
Hey. Changing the passenger side motor mount in my 2008 Mazda 3. Same AWR mount as you have installed. At approximately 9:40 you mention something being mounted under the motor mount ( a wire) that you relocate to the wheel strut tower (?). Is a ground wire for something? You mentioned you have already done something due to your previous audio installations. Thanks.
your videos are always entertaining and informative. good job. I have an issue with my 3. (auto trans) when I shift gears the engine moves and dips a little bit but doesn't when I rev the engine. Do you think the issue would be the bottom motor mount?
ghostlyrich actually i will just buy the original style but aftermarket front engine mount cause it cost only $35 but the one u have it cost $170, the your video is amazing you did a good job to show us the tricks to to this at home u save me big buck Thank you!
Hey Rich. Installed the AWR MM on my 2008 Mazda 3. Very easy install. Your video was a help. Holy vibrations Batman. Severla spots in the cabin of the car vibrating at different speeds. Most of it disappears at cruising speed. Did this get better as time went on? I choose the '88' rating and now I'm wondering if I should've gone with the '70'?
Yeah I've also heard from other people that aftermarket polyurathane mounts vibrate almost as much as broken stock mounts, but they last longer and are usually cheaper. I'm going to replace the passenger side mount with an OEM replacement and see if get that factory smoothness back.
Ok, replaced only the passenger side mount since it's only the fluid filled mount that seems to fail on the car. Replaced it with a new stock mount and the car doesn't vibrate at idle anymore. Wasn't cheap though.
@@jackmackerel4151 I'm still using the AWR mount on the passenger side. It has been installed for about 1 month now. Certainly doesn't vibrate now as much as when it was initially installed. Seems to promote a bit more performance through less torque loss. I also have a Corksport MM behind the transmission. I like the car's performance now...I also installed a MSDS Inc racing header, CS performance exhaust and Takeda SRI. I sounds conservative at idle but then makes some moderate noise when you put your foot in it.
Ian R sounds fun, I originally chose the 3 over the corola back in 2006 because it was sportier and more fun to drive. It's running strong at 180k miles, so great reliability as well.
Nice video man, first video I've seen of yours! I have a mazda 3 2005 and I'm wondering if this could be my problem? When I let go off clutch in first gear, the engine starts vibrating. I'm also debating if this is also the reason for making a rattling noise when going on reverse and also vibrating a little bit.
Hey rich quick question how many ft lbs did you do on the last bolt that goes through the polyurethane on the passenger side mount? Received the mounts yesterday and im going to install them today. Video helped a ton thanks for posting.
i tightened it snug with a socket wrench them did rest of adjustments with a box wrench. you just need to adjust between vibrations and slopyness. The tighter the bolt the more vibrations but at the same you will notice smooth shifting you will see when adjusting ^^
Haha I got tons of vibrations. I took it for a drive after the install and I got people looking at me because its so loud. Do the vibrations die down after a while?
Nice vid - thanks. I'm on my second oem mount and decided to pickup some AWR mounts. I did notice an extra bolt/nut on the AWR passenger mount that goes through the mount (through the polyurethane). With it loose, the mount pivots. There were no directions in the box on the torque specs for this bolt. Also, when did you tighten down this bolt (first or last)? Thanks!
I thought the vibrations of my mazda 3 were normal, but this video made me realize that the engine and rear transmission mounts may need to be replaced. Did you feel vibrations when the car was at P (parked) and/or D(drive), not while driving but when stopped like in a stoplight? Thanks for the video.
yes you will hand to get aft mount to kill vibrations if you buy one like i show in the video you might not like how much vibrations there are. also when you get a new mount you have to work them in all mounts give allot of vibration when you first purchase them
Hi , do you think there is same kind of mount problem on my 2007 mazdaspeed 3 ? It doesnt seem to vibrate when im driving but im just wondering if it could be a problem later thanks!
How's the quality because it seems alot of their products are "private label packages" meaning they are made by some other company that just slaps on another companies sticker? Which one did you get
Hey Rich with that PMM that bolt at the elbow is that loose when you receive? I was thinking of getting this mount but I saw another video that stated you had to adjust that bolt... I personally dont want if it happen to get it as I am a complete noob but I just wanted to check if you made any adjustments there. Also what duro did you get?
Thanks for the response, Great videos man. Your the only person I find with a mazda that I can learn from lol, so thanks for taking the time and putting up these videos.
my #3 engine mount is broken and i debating to change it to the factory or use the awr. can you tell me the difference on why this is better than the factory? thank you
Hey ghost I tried doing my rear mount but the center bolt holding the mount in place up top will not budge. I was able to get the bolt off that threads through the two mounts with a 12in breaker bar but the one up top was not budging at all. What did you use to get yours out?
how much worse is the NVH with these mounts? I'm 2 clicks away from buying the 70 dura mounts, but I do a lot of commuting and I don't think I could deal with excessive vibrations.
Did in another video. Surprisingly was still fine. For me I had to change the passanger side mount for a couple friends as well that passanger side mount definitely did better with the cork sport adapter or aftermarket
Do you know if that passenger mount can be compatible with ford vehicles, a Ford Focus II 2010 also known as Europe/Ghia/EXE. That hidraulic mount seems to be the same as my car, I have changed that one two times, because it vibrates all the time at high speed and when idled.
This video is great but next time can you help us more by telling what size the bolts are so for us less experienced shade tree mechanics. Thanks for the video.
I've been subscribed for like a year watching your mazda videos and today I saw you get shouted out by Philip DeFranco about your cellphone video...weird!
I have a 2006 Mazda Axela. It vibrates really bad both in idle and especially when driving. If it is an engine mount issue, can I use the same parts in this video on my Mazda?
help please i have a mazda5 2008 its vibrating on the right side only when I'm in drive when I'm stopped. do you think it might be the motor mount or transmission mount? thanks
It appears he is confusing the rear motor mount with the transmission mount which there is only one. If interested in the transmission mount check out videos like "Mazda repairs 85016 - Mazda 3 Trans Mount Failure - Tony's Service Center".
Heeey men i have a serious problem with it, I bougth all the 3 mounts and my car its vybrating again after less than a month. But only when I am in drive and braking
Another pro tip: Don't be an idiot like me and try to loosen the "nut" on the driver's side of the rear mount.... it's welded on and won't budge. Come at it from the passenger side like in the video.
You didn't show any of those pain-in-the-ass ass bolts and how to remove them especially the center bolt on the transmission mount that runs through the rubber with little to no space to work
Thanks, changed out both front and rear engine mounts thanks to this video. Saved $500.00 (after cost of parts) from dealership quote.
Thank you so much for these videos! I've had my Mazda for a year, and had to do pretty much every job you've done a video about. :) Thanks for helping a girl fix her car!
Got the passenger and trans mount installed, and it feels awesome! I left the center poly bolt loose on the passenger side and placed a level on the valve cover to make sure it was in fact level. I then just torqued the center bolt last to 50 ft. lbs. Thanks for the vid!
Pro Tip, use a wooden block between the jack and the engine when Bracing.
Common sense to MOST folks
This video is one of the best informational videos I have ever seen man. Thank you!
Rich, thanks a lot for the vid. As a thank you, here are the proper torque specs from page 01-10A-28 in the official Mazda shop manual.
#1 - Rear Torque Mount: 68.7-85.9 (both bolts)
#3 - Passenger Side Mount: 55.0-77.3 ft-lbs (bolts and nuts)
#4 - Transmission Mount: 61.7-83.5 ft-lbs (bolt)
For those who love their torque wrenches, here are the battery bracket torque specs. Notice the bolts are in in-lbs (divide by 12 for ft-lbs).
Battery Bracket: 61.1-86.7 in-lbs (bolts), 32.5-44.9 ft-lbs (nuts)
Thanks mate
Omgoodness, I was told 50 b - 70 n lb-ft for #3 PMM, wondering if this could be why I have small lingering vibration mostly while in gear. Nevertheless I thank you for taking the time to share much needed specs 😊
Thanks for posting changed the mounts in my wife’s car last night good video to study before I did the work
Perfect, was looking for this video as I've had the same issue lately.
I just did this yesterday , thanks for the walkthrough . I couldn't do the bottom one because my jack stands sink in asphalt of my parking spot,( I don't really have a driveway ) and my car glided sideways. Good thing nothing got damage. Thank you
Should have put plywood down
6:55 good info. i mix my bolts up every now and then when i am in a hurry . the vids I've watched never say which one is which. usually have to watch a few to see if i can figure out which one goes where. definitely a bummer and a strain on me eyes!
according to another forum, there are two different center bolts used by Mazda, there may be a "8" or "10" on the bolt head.
"8" 62-84 foot pound
"10" 96-113 foot pound.
I'm sorry, I lost it when you described your jack point as a "waffle" or "game of tic tac toe". Great video man
Great video I know you don't have you Mazda any more but quick question what Durometer did you get on the mount?
thanks a million for the mounting locations
great video ghostlyrich, when you changed the passenger side motor mount did you have a jack under the oil pan to support the motor?
Just tackled this today on my 07 Mazda 3 2.3L with 95,000 miles by using this video. Only took about 2 hours with breaks. Thanks for the video! Great help. I'm a little worried I didn't tighten the bolts on that passenger side mount enough. I got them as tight as I could using a socket wrench but didn't use a box wrench. The rattling I used to get at stop lights is now gone, so that's a plus. Just hope the engine doesn't fall out from not having those bolts tight enough haha.
sorry i didnt message back sooner if you notice vibrations pick up again check those bolts, if they came loose use some blue locktite on them
Great video! What durometer did you use. They have 3 options on the website
Hello there I have a 2007 Mazda 3 hatchback and I'm having problems with my a/c compressor and I was wondering if you know of any good links or videos that i can watch to learn. I recently saw your video about how to change the motor mounts and i really liked it i got to learn a lot so thank you for that video. Can you also recommend me a link to where i can buy my parts please and thank u.
Mine just showed up and I'll be replacing the broken #3 and not broken trans mount I have, just like yours. Slooooooow shipping but they look real nice. Are you still liking yours?
1 out of 10 I give this vid a 10 thanks my dude helped me a lot!!!
Did you notice an increase in vibrations using those stiff urethane motor mounts?
Ohhhhhhh yes!! Haha felt like was riding every horse power under the hood lol
Hey. Changing the passenger side motor mount in my 2008 Mazda 3. Same AWR mount as you have installed. At approximately 9:40 you mention something being mounted under the motor mount ( a wire) that you relocate to the wheel strut tower (?). Is a ground wire for something? You mentioned you have already done something due to your previous audio installations. Thanks.
Yes, it is a ground wire. It looked like it came from the alternator.
your videos are always entertaining and informative. good job.
I have an issue with my 3. (auto trans) when I shift gears the engine moves and dips a little bit but doesn't when I rev the engine. Do you think the issue would be the bottom motor mount?
Have done the passenger side engine mount twice now.
Did you ever do a driving video with these new mounts?
still working the new mounts in
Hey Rich. How are the vibrations now that you have worked the mounts in?
Robert fahnoe, try paying attention. This video was very useful. I agree with the block between motor and jack, that could've sucked.
is this a 2.3L engine? or 2L? cause i have the 2.3 and i planning to change the engine mounts, thank you for the help!
2.0 but should be more or less the same
ghostlyrich actually i will just buy the original style but aftermarket front engine mount cause it cost only $35 but the one u have it cost $170, the your video is amazing you did a good job to show us the tricks to to this at home u save me big buck Thank you!
Still awesome some info. Great energy
Hey Rich. Installed the AWR MM on my 2008 Mazda 3. Very easy install. Your video was a help. Holy vibrations Batman. Severla spots in the cabin of the car vibrating at different speeds. Most of it disappears at cruising speed. Did this get better as time went on? I choose the '88' rating and now I'm wondering if I should've gone with the '70'?
A little bit haha but mostly feels like a race car
Yeah I've also heard from other people that aftermarket polyurathane mounts vibrate almost as much as broken stock mounts, but they last longer and are usually cheaper. I'm going to replace the passenger side mount with an OEM replacement and see if get that factory smoothness back.
Ok, replaced only the passenger side mount since it's only the fluid filled mount that seems to fail on the car. Replaced it with a new stock mount and the car doesn't vibrate at idle anymore. Wasn't cheap though.
@@jackmackerel4151 I'm still using the AWR mount on the passenger side. It has been installed for about 1 month now. Certainly doesn't vibrate now as much as when it was initially installed. Seems to promote a bit more performance through less torque loss. I also have a Corksport MM behind the transmission.
I like the car's performance now...I also installed a MSDS Inc racing header, CS performance exhaust and Takeda SRI. I sounds conservative at idle but then makes some moderate noise when you put your foot in it.
Ian R sounds fun, I originally chose the 3 over the corola back in 2006 because it was sportier and more fun to drive. It's running strong at 180k miles, so great reliability as well.
Nice video man, first video I've seen of yours!
I have a mazda 3 2005 and I'm wondering if this could be my problem? When I let go off clutch in first gear, the engine starts vibrating.
I'm also debating if this is also the reason for making a rattling noise when going on reverse and also vibrating a little bit.
I changed the clutch a month ago btw, the shake already happened before clutch replacement so not clutch.
Thanks for showing how to jack up the car. Other videos don't show these steps.👌👍🏾
Hey rich quick question how many ft lbs did you do on the last bolt that goes through the polyurethane on the passenger side mount? Received the mounts yesterday and im going to install them today. Video helped a ton thanks for posting.
i tightened it snug with a socket wrench them did rest of adjustments with a box wrench. you just need to adjust between vibrations and slopyness. The tighter the bolt the more vibrations but at the same you will notice smooth shifting you will see when adjusting ^^
Haha I got tons of vibrations. I took it for a drive after the install and I got people looking at me because its so loud. Do the vibrations die down after a while?
eyep once it wears in and warms up
Thanks for the great walkthrough!
Hey bro would you happen to know the part number for the rear trans mount
Thank you for making this video nice job...
Nice vid - thanks. I'm on my second oem mount and decided to pickup some AWR mounts. I did notice an extra bolt/nut on the AWR passenger mount that goes through the mount (through the polyurethane). With it loose, the mount pivots. There were no directions in the box on the torque specs for this bolt. Also, when did you tighten down this bolt (first or last)? Thanks!
Yup - torqued last to 50lbs once verified engine was level...
I thought the vibrations of my mazda 3 were normal, but this video made me realize that the engine and rear transmission mounts may need to be replaced. Did you feel vibrations when the car was at P (parked) and/or D(drive), not while driving but when stopped like in a stoplight? Thanks for the video.
yes you will hand to get aft mount to kill vibrations if you buy one like i show in the video you might not like how much vibrations there are. also when you get a new mount you have to work them in all mounts give allot of vibration when you first purchase them
thank u for explaining so well bro
Hi , do you think there is same kind of mount problem on my 2007 mazdaspeed 3 ? It doesnt seem to vibrate when im driving but im just wondering if it could be a problem later thanks!
Yes.
ghostlyrich ok thanks
Dang dude your subscribers are threw the roof!!
Rich, I have an 2007 M3.. I am just over 100,000km. What's the chances I need to swap mine out?
high if they have never been done
I was wondering where you bought the engine mount 3 for your mazda 3 2010? I've been looking all over for one
rock auto
How's the quality because it seems alot of their products are "private label packages" meaning they are made by some other company that just slaps on another companies sticker? Which one did you get
+Jp Hardboiled I bought beck arnley rebadge I think it was. was a while. rebadge isn't always bad I never by the cheapest one
Great Video, it is going to help me, thank you
Great Video Buddy ..
Is this identical to the skyactiv 2.0 mounts? I also heard about the shitty ford mazda mounts going bad easily.
Hey Rich with that PMM that bolt at the elbow is that loose when you receive? I was thinking of getting this mount but I saw another video that stated you had to adjust that bolt... I personally dont want if it happen to get it as I am a complete noob but I just wanted to check if you made any adjustments there. Also what duro did you get?
88 and no have not done much adjustment to bolt yet waiting to work the mount in a little. it does come loose
Thanks for the response, Great videos man. Your the only person I find with a mazda that I can learn from lol, so thanks for taking the time and putting up these videos.
Ah! Thank you so much! This was exactly what I needed!
are those cooper rs3-a tires I see?
Would you recommend gettting 70 or 88 duro.
my #3 engine mount is broken and i debating to change it to the factory or use the awr. can you tell me the difference on why this is better than the factory? thank you
tat camp stock is best unless your racing
How many miles did you have on your 3 before changing the Upper and Torque mounts?
About 80,000. Kms
Hey ghost
I tried doing my rear mount but the center bolt holding the mount in place up top will not budge. I was able to get the bolt off that threads through the two mounts with a 12in breaker bar but the one up top was not budging at all. What did you use to get yours out?
I used PB Blaster + time for the same job and it worked really well.
did the vibrating in your car stop? im experiencing very bad vibrating in my 2007 mazda3 2.3L
yes you probably need new mounts.
how much worse is the NVH with these mounts? I'm 2 clicks away from buying the 70 dura mounts, but I do a lot of commuting and I don't think I could deal with excessive vibrations.
you havent done the 1 under the air filter n battery which is the most common 1 broken.
Did in another video. Surprisingly was still fine. For me I had to change the passanger side mount for a couple friends as well that passanger side mount definitely did better with the cork sport adapter or aftermarket
I have a mazda 3 2005 that vibrates heavily on backing up o n starting and when in park does this sound like engine mounts ?
yes it does
Do you know if that passenger mount can be compatible with ford vehicles, a Ford Focus II 2010 also known as Europe/Ghia/EXE. That hidraulic mount seems to be the same as my car, I have changed that one two times, because it vibrates all the time at high speed and when idled.
This video is great but next time can you help us more by telling what size the bolts are so for us less experienced shade tree mechanics. Thanks for the video.
Hi! I was planning on replacing all my mounts with factory ones. Can I still use the same torque specs?
yes
Im getting a weird clunking you think my mounts are busted?
Is it when you press the gas ??? If so probably yes the passenger side mount loves to go on this vehicle
great video
I've been subscribed for like a year watching your mazda videos and today I saw you get shouted out by Philip DeFranco about your cellphone video...weird!
its crazy bud
I have a 2006 Mazda Axela. It vibrates really bad both in idle and especially when driving. If it is an engine mount issue, can I use the same parts in this video on my Mazda?
Zhivago McPhee new mounts should help if they havent been done also clean the throttle body i have a video on that to
ghostlyrich thanks much.
shouldn't you have your jack under some wood?
help please i have a mazda5 2008 its vibrating on the right side only when I'm in drive when I'm stopped. do you think it might be the motor mount or transmission mount? thanks
Marcella Hernandez sounds like passanger side engine mount. Also might want to clean your throttle body incase its dirty
+ghostlyrich do you know how to calibrate the throttle body? , because I cleaned and then now is vibrate it
wont i just have to replace these later on too?
good video!
I've never had to use a screwdriver on the coolant reservoir I just lift it up.
whats the durometer i should pick for the passenger engine mount for 2006 mazda 3 2.0?
I need the same part replaced but my engine mount, can you send me the part number please?
It appears he is confusing the rear motor mount with the transmission mount which there is only one. If interested in the transmission mount check out videos like "Mazda repairs 85016 - Mazda 3 Trans Mount Failure - Tony's Service Center".
Sven Swenson I have another video that shows how to do the mount under battery box as well on drivers side
Does anyone have any experience with the motor mounts he used? I’m thinking of buying some
Heeey men i have a serious problem with it, I bougth all the 3 mounts and my car its vybrating again after less than a month. But only when I am in drive and braking
Tranny mounts ccomming loose it sounds like i woukd defintly get in there and check that tranny bolt
sizes of the bolts?
One more thing I forgot to add. Did the car vibrations went away after replacing the engine and transmission mounts?
Those clips are a nightmare!
Nice video but i think it would even be much better with actual demonstration than vebal direction.
Thanks Canadian Bob Saget!
hi my friend I have a question up to engine mount this and doesn't make any noise before to change
Another pro tip: Don't be an idiot like me and try to loosen the "nut" on the driver's side of the rear mount.... it's welded on and won't budge. Come at it from the passenger side like in the video.
You didn't show any of those pain-in-the-ass ass bolts and how to remove them especially the center bolt on the transmission mount that runs through the rubber with little to no space to work
Engine shield?????? LUUUUUUUUUHHHH-KEY. Bought my 06 at 44,600kms and it only had 3 rusty screws holding it on.. 5 years ago.
on the 2 long bolts on the transmission mouth how much torque?
british columbia represent
If you cant jack your car up perhaps you shouldnt be doing this ??.
bad quality choice of motor mounts, dude. That PMM will rattle the teeth in your mouth.And the RMM is garbage.
Sorry , I think you should improve this video. I did not understand a lot of things . Thanks anyways.