Having driven Subarus for 27 years as well as working in the service department at a Subaru dealer for a few of those years, I have some issues with this. Oil, trans/diff, replacement intervals are great. Acutally, the trans/diff could go every 15k. Most don't realize how hot the diff fluids actually get. It's easy, cheap insurance. I see no reason to replace coolant every 15,000 miles. Spark plugs on the other hand, can most certainly wait. You run the risk of messing up the threads in your heads by doing it more than needed. A properly tuned and maintained Subaru does not detonate anymore than any other turbocharged car, and surely not enough to damage spark plugs in my experience. If you are wearing out spark plugs, there are other issues. AOS? Meh. I don't think a properly set up one is a bad idea, but it is surely not absolutely needed. Subaru's PCV system is complex and designed to be as efficient as it could be with restraints for emissions. If you have THAT much oil getting into your intake system, there might be other issues. For a non-tracked daily driver, money could be better spent elsewhere IMHO. A tracked car is a bit of a different story. Oil pick up? I don't disagree with the fact that a KillerB pick up is great insurance, I do disagree with your excitement that someone's stock pick up WILL CRACK. There are over 200,000 WRX and WRX STi's sold in the US, plus Forester, Baja, and Legacy and Outback turbo cars as well. The amount of cracked pick ups is a fraction of a fraction of the cars that are on the road. Now, if you are paranoid, by all means, replace it. You don't want to be the "lottery winner" when it comes to cracked oil pick ups. Radiator. Unless you are doing track days, there is no good reason to spend money on a radiator. Subaru's Calsonic radiators work perfectly fine for almost everyone. I believe the older WRX STi Group N(and possibly even Group A) cars all used the oem radiator. STi does now offer a Group N radiator for the VAB cars, but it may have as much to do with not getting clogged with dirt/mud/etc as it does with actual cooling efficiency. Cooling mod I have no issue with. But it works by getting hot coolant out of the head faster, not by pumping coolant into the head. A proper tune goes without saying. But, while it's not a fail safe, I would go to a Cobb Certified Tuner. This industry is weird in the sense that anyone can call themselves a "Pro" and because they know a bit more than the customer, the customer thinks they are a genius. The end user REALLY needs to do a lot of research before they gave the local "pro" money to tune their car. I'm surprised you did not touch at all on an equal length exhaust manifold at all. Just by design, they are more efficient with removing exhaust from the engine. I am not saying unequal length manifolds are the "smoking gun" when it comes to un-reliability, but I surely would spend the money on an equal length manifold before an external wastegate if reliability is your main concern. A good piece of advice is to always use OEM parts until you can't to achieve your goals. The best tuner parts in the world cannot come close to the amount of R&D and real world testing an oem manufacturer can provide, not to mention quality and fit and finish. The farther you stray away from oem, the farther you stray away from reliabiltiy. If an EWG or oil cooler or FMIC or whatever is absolutely necessary to achieve your goals, than fine. The problem is for the vast majority of car owners, it really isn't. You may be talking about new Subarus in this video, but I would have to say the number one problem I have seen over the years is that guys buy a WRX with 120,000 miles on it want to start modding it immediately. Ever pull your coolant temp sensor to see the corrosion on it? Think your stock O2 and MAF sensors are still reading spot on? Your ECU kind of relies on your MAF for...everything. Just give it a spray with MAF cleaner, I'm sure it will be good as new. How long you going to keep driving on oem coolant hoses? Not the radiator hoses, but the heater, TB and turbo coolant hoses. How about all, and I mean ALL the vacuum lines? You think they are still nice and soft and sealing perfectly? How many times in the last 18 years do you think your coil packs fired? They begin to wear out before they actually start "missing". This is the number one problem with Subaru and reliability. Before you buy a used Subaru, you should put aside $2,000-3000(just for parts) just to get it back up to spec before you ever think about doing any modding whatsoever. These kids only see videos on "Built blocks, AOS's, EWGs, FMIC's,etc." and then get pissed because they are stranded on the side of the road because their 17 year old alternator died.
@IscoSullo I have a question. I just bought a 2010 impreza for a steal of a deal but besides it being stock I have no clue what maintenance has been done to it an was wondering what a 100k mile service would look like? I'm thinking spark plugs, coil packs, timing belt alignment, fuel filter. If you have anything else to add that would be awesome. Im someone that cares more about reliability then big power. Thankyou
What temp does the diff hit extended driving 80mph, 100mph, 120mph? Just curious as I've had very cool tacoma differentials before. The outback differential seemed faily cool. But I've also seen some hot subaru differentials like there wasn't enough backlash or something was wrong.
@@PQR5CHE I have been running Motul Xclean. I have Blackstone Labs reports showing the motor is doing well with it. I have yet to have to add Oil between the 3k mile interval changes. Do not run cheap off the shelf oil in this motor. It needs quality Synthetic oil.
I really enjoyed this video: I appreciate that you have these mods in stages, and actually address reliability. Most videos I see are just first mods kind of videos, but never mention reliability, so thank you for that. I also really love that you recommend, not only parts, but the brands that you use or know are good. I feel confident enough to come back to your channel for installs and reliable information. Although I don't have my STI anymore, I plan to get another one in the future and do the stage 2 stuff you recommended ( because I was over that stock power real quick lol). Thank you for the helpful info! Subscribed!🤗🤗🤗🤗
It really all comes down to How you drive. If you drive it daily and don't go fast & the furious all day everyday and keeping it stock with regular maintenance your car will last longer.
Overall great video, although a few things I'd recommend differently are installing the cylinder 4 cooling mod and the oil pickup even if you are stock. The pickups can crack/break at any power level because they are garbage and the cooling mod will allow you to push your DD more reliably and its only $80. If you are considering an oil cooler, CSF racing actually makes a radiator with a built in oil cooler which is a great package. Also one of the biggest bangs for you buck as far as mods go (I know this will annoy some) is pick up a set of equal length headers, and lastly what should be common sense.... find a local reputable speed shop and talk to them about your goals to get keep your baby running happy. For oil, you really should be using a higher quality ester based oil like Motul/Redline/AMSoil/Schaeffers. They have a much higher HTHS rating and will better lubricate and protect your car, running Brotella is the oil equivalent of slapping on a VTA BOV and saying "Well my car hasn't blown up so it's not hurting anything"
I'll look into the CSF, haven't heard of them before. If it has a built in oil cooler that's fantastic. I agree with you on the ELH, I've always swapped out for a ELH, with this car I'll be swapping to the Killer B when the time comes. I had the Perrin set on my 07 STI and they were alright ish. I use Motul for all my other fluids, I'll snag some of their 5-30 and give it a try.
BOTTOM LINE PEOPLE; DON'T TUNE YOUR CARS. I HAVE DONE THIS FOR MANY YEARS AND LEARNED THE HARD WAY AND WASTED A LOT OF MONEY AND EXERTED A LOT OF EFFORT. NO AMOUNT OF PRO TUNES OR PARTS CAN MATCH THE BALANCE AND HARMONY OF A CAR FROM FACTORY. A WISE MAN ONCE TOLD ME; IF YOU WANT A FAST CAR, BUY A FAST CAR.
If you want the car to be reliable always do your maintenance on time don’t cheap out on parts and don’t drive like you stole it once in a while no problem but either than that it should last a while
@the machinist yes thats why Toyota went with Subaru engine in the 86 and got Subaru to build the cars when they built their BRZ. Performance Toyota engines in past ten years?????? Even the new Supra has a BMW engine and build.. The days of the 1JZ and 2JZ are long gone.
Want a reliable sti? Don't modify the engine. Do everything but engine. No tuning. Do u wanna trust someone you just met (tuner) with your 30k investment? And sign a waiver saying if it blows up on the dyno he isn't responsible for it?. This is my opinion. Keep your sti stock and buy another tuner car aka Honda for the price of your sti fmic.
You've got solid points, all depends on perspective from what you want out of the car. The most reliable thing to do would be dont touch it, stay on top of maintenance and drive it reasonably. But the majority of owners want to modify. But like you said all perspective based!
Ya see your first mistake was.... "use any oil" are you nuts? (no disrespect) I worked at the drag strip for years where many of the top mechanics and world class racers HIGHLY recommended: whether you race, drag, street, or daily driver, even your moms mini van --- use full synthetic AMSOIL.........period!!! do your research people, third party lab tested etc... best protection anyone can put in their engine!!
Cant control what oil people choose to use, but I agree with you. I've started a mini series testing different brand oils after running them through my car. I use black stone labs to test the oil then I verify it as well with a spectrometer that i have at work. Regardless you are right, however; cant make people use certain oils
dont run an hks bov unless you're speed density? i disagree lol and for level 3.... out of all the mods you listed, you forgot the MOST important mod there is to any car. fucking tires! your level 3 should've just been with level 2. not everyone at the track has a built block. i see stock s2000's with tires and suspensions shaming the more expensive euro cars and same with the subies/evo's. sorry bro but i highly doubt you track lol since you forgot TIRES. ewg's aren't even all that necessary. some track events even have db levels (for example weather tech laguna seca). you can literally track a stock motor sti with just suspension and tires. from there you'll start figured out exactly what you need.
I have found that the owners are the problem. Im taking to you people with your stupid intakes and downpipes. But back to the subject, to make your subaru reliable drive it to a toyota dealership and trade it in for a camry. You're welcome.
How to keep your WRX STI or Lan Evo Reliable 🤔🤔 don't be like American white boys an make them into drag cars . Thay are Rally Cars for the Street .... Not ment to be 800/900+HP Streight Line Monsters ..... That's what you guys have your Muscle cars for 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
you should specify with the OTS tunes that if you have just what they list like a full exhaust and intake they are actually not that bad i tried to book in with a cobb protuner with my 2+ kit and he said dont bother and waste your money the ots tune is pretty spot on i dont get hardly any feedback knock and barely any real knock ever
Nice video man. Can’t wait to start building my 2019 sti. Thanks for the great advice! I never even thought about changing the spark plugs that early but I think I’ll do that first
Appreciate the support! I like to stay on top of the plugs when I can. If you look at my Spark Plug video you can see just how fouled they get just after 15k miles. Its insane
Subaru recommends 60K but when you start making more power I'd still suggest swapping them at 20-30K. More powers going to reduce the life span of the plugs.
Great vid! However I must say that the GDT cooling mod pulls hot coolant out of the head via low pressure return of the heater hose and back to the water pump rather than pushing coolant into the head. The biggest factor that makes this car "unreliable" is that owners think this is a race car from the factory. It's not. End of story. Thanks for giving the community a different insight for a mod path.
Good to know how it works a little better, I've seen good results from it so we shall see how it does in the near future. Trying to give. Little more value to the community for some of the basic Questions I've seen out there
YocoWheelin stock EJ’s spin bearings and crack ringlands just as much as modded ones, they are ticking time bombs. You can stave off some of the factory defects with mods, such as a oil catch can, EL header, oil cooler (basically every cooling mod you can do really), and a quality protune.
@the machinist nope. original phase 1 EJ25 DOHC original leaked usually internally, the later phase 2 SOHC ones also leaked usually externally, 3 generations of legacys - ~1994 - ~2009
Just picked up a used 2018 WRX STI with 20k miles. New to subarus and wondered if you could answer a question for me…. While sitting idle the other day, I noticed a slight clicking noise (doubt video would pick it up). When I press the clutch pedal in, it goes away. Car drives fine/shifts fine. Not sure if this is normal or if I have an issue. Any help you could give would be great. Thanks!
@@Smeedia Thanks for the reply! I’ll keep watch on it and see. Heard STI’s tend to be a bit noisy, just making sure I didn’t have a problem to worry about already, trying to enjoy the car!
So I just got my 2020 sti with 14k miles. It still has factory warranty and I plan to have the car for a long time and eventually build it up. It is my dd but I do ride my motorcycle to work when it is nice to keep miles off my car. I really want to get an air oil separator but it will void my warranty. Are their any other options? Anything I should watch out for? I check my oil weekly and I dont beat on my car besides a nice 3rd to 4th pull every now and again. I really need to keep it alive till its paid off and I can throw my money into the motor.
It can create complications on warranty but some dealers are cool with them. Just stay ontop of maintenance and you shoukdent have any issues. Congrats on the car 😁
@@Smeedia thanks man. I've learned alot from you videos. Once the subaru warranty is up ill probably start adding parts because the dealer i bought the car from is cool and the warranty i bought with them will take me to 100k miles or 6 years.
Thanks so much for the video! Only found your stuff recently but I'm really enjoying the Subie-centric content. I'm looking at modding my 2010 STI (we talked on another video of yours about transmissions) and my goal is ultimately for a "powerful, reliable daily driver". I'm looking at an AOS, oil sump, cylinder cooling, downpipe and potentially injectors. And a tune of course. Maybe the rebuild isn't as necessary as I thought, but this video suggests I'm finding some good answers and going in a good direction. My target is about 350 HP. I guess if I was adding all this stuff, I'd pretty much have to tune it upon installation, right? That goes for about $700 USD where I'm from. I can't really buy everything all at once, so what's the best way to do this? Just buy the parts, and then when I'm ready install + tune all at once? Also, does it sound like I'm picking a good path to get my EJ257 to 350HP?
@@Smeedia Thanks for that mate. Bloody hell, feels like I have a bit to catch up on because one thing I'm watching and commenting on your slightly older vids, next thing you're putting an EG33 in 😆 Can you drop me your Insta? I want to follow, support, and be here as you grow! Also do you think the engine swap will mean your content is going to change quite a bit moving forward? Not so much the process of the swap, but subsequent videos after that?
When you talked about front diff maintenence, you said to keep it tight. How do you adjust the backlash with the trans still in the car? The shop manual only covers this proceedure when the trans is on the workbench. Thanks!
Never had that issue on my 06,07,08 or 11 STI and I've religiously changed them at those intervals. As long as your not over tightening them you should be fine
Thank you for the support, its appreciated 😁 happy that everyone's getting some value out of these videos! If ya ever have any requests fell free to shoot them my way and I'll see what I cam do to cover them! 😁
3k miles is a good rule of thumb if your car is semi-new and you don't beat on it. Better practice is to check your oil every time you fill up it's pretty easy to tell when your oil is getting worn out. If you happen to have a tunnel in your daily commute like me you might be looking closer to 1.5k-2k miles, check your oil not your odometer.
Lol the tunnels get us everytime 🤣 but your right checking the oil when filling up is good practice to follow. Especially if your car consumes a good amount.
Not to say that it wont remain reliable, that depends on your driving style. But I've seen a plethora of Factory STIs fail even with the recommended service intervals. Personal preference I like to get it done prior
Well still in break-in mode. Just bought it and it has 700 miles on it. Maybe 5-8k miles a year. So I guess if I change twice a year its still 3k-4k OCI.
Funny you mentioned a built block. I got my sti a few months back and already looking at purchasing/rebuilding a 2JZ to toss in there in a couple of years. But, after having two cars with the 2J and owning my first ej, I must say I loveee my Subaru. Great tips! Much needed
Thank you for the support! We just finished building my buddy's 2J 240. Great engines and they can take a beating for sure. EJs are just weird engines but for some reason I love them lol
I agree with all of the stuff you have listed in your description. I am definitely investing in most of that stuff, especially the oil pan/pickup/cooler. I have cylinder 4 mod and AOS already.
So, I'd really like to have a WRX but where I live there aren't mechanics specialized in Subarus. I drive around 3k miles a year, and would do the safety mods would you say it's worth getting one ?
Man, I’ve been seen all these UA-camrs with their nice Subarus or just any other car, one thing they all have in common, they all install nice expensive parts and awesome killer tunes making beast power, but never touch maintenance and then they wonder why they break.
I want a reliable car, i can do the maintenance when it needs, don’t wanna go crazy with the mods wanna keep it semi stick but can’t afford brand new, you think a used sti under 70k will be a good option as to reliability ?
Do not buy a Crawford V3 they are known for being called Dairy Queen oil milkshake machines I had issues with mine because they don’t connect to the vent ports on driver and passenger vent hoses just get IAG
Honestly I'm really starting to wonder why people buy these cars at all. Like do you have to replace the whole dam car or something for it to be reliable. Are you guys just looking for a good awd platform and everything else is shit outside the powertrain. Why do you have to replace so many parts on the car that are already there, what's wrong with the factory radiator, factory intercooler, factory air intake, why do you need to add an iag. Are these cars just unreliable badly tuned vehicles with cheap stock parts. I dont get why every video it's like you have to replace the whole dam engine bay to add like 50hp. What's wrong with the parts that are already in the car and why doesn't Subaru already have good parts in it when you buy it or do people just like to replace everything just to spend money.
Hey man I recent bought a used 2017 wrx i put less then a 1k miles car seem to run strong and everything but i notice a-bit like slight wine on cold start and from the turbo i popped the intake off and the turbo has broken corners off every single turbine🥴 took it back to the dealership they telling me to get fucked, and they are not and they wont warranty even though its under warranty, what do you think the proper way to fix this and making sure there isn’t metal in my engine somewhere? Im assuming this was done with previous owner the dealership hide it from me when the sold it to me
I’ve been contemplating on getting a 2008-2013 wax sti hatchback as a winter car and I’ve been trying to find sources that’ll help me know what to lookout for and what to do once I get the car and without a doubt this has been the most helpful video! Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
were not mad for abusing our cars were mad that almost every other car can be treated the same way and either have small issues only or just none. subarus are built like shit from the factory thats why people hate them, why tf do i got to spend 50 grand to get 500hp and it not even be reliable
With any car if you abuse it it's going to have a short life with the original motor. Mods are not going to make it unreliable if you do it properly and have the proper supporting mods for that you want to get out of it. It really comes down you if you're red lining your car constantly and launching it at every stop. Your car going to blow.
They are reliable, just like any other engine, if you keep them stock, but not even a minute into the video and the "400hp on stock motor" comes in lmao
All your suggestions for sure!!....... important longer-term care, timing belt (at least) every 100,000, and do the water pump whilst your in there.......if you lose either of these components you are f'd.........timing belt failure usually means valves thru your pistons, and a water pump goin dead means instant overheat....ie: in subies-instant head gasket failure!.....................other than that, i'm still making an old OBS into a sti/wrx+, so I started with suspension/brake upgrades...................many love, much props
Looked at a lot of your content and it's great. I just bought an 08 a month ago... Sadly my experience hasn't been well... I'm having a no crank issue with my 2008 WRX, everything lights up but it just doesn't crank at all I don't hear a fuel prime nor do I hear relays or switches in my cabin when I put the key in attempt to start the car. The car was running fine prior to this... All I did was swap out coil two and four along with new plugs and put the battery back the car started up just fine. I was getting a P0304. She started up and ran for about 30 minutes with no issues. As I pulled away it's simply stopped running while my instruments and everything else was on at the end of my block. I turned the key.. Panel lights up but no crank at all. Everything has red 12.6 and I have not found a blown fuse yet. After several hours of testing I gave up and sent the car to the dealer. Subaru is the 1st car to ever defeat me. What do you think it could be? 2008 wrx 2.5L turbo 5 speed with 166xxx miles. Thanks
From my experience with an issue like this it's bad battery, blown fuse, bad relay or a damaged harness. From what you've already checked I'd say something in the harness. Not a fun time 😕
@smeedia What would the best non-warranty violating bolt-on upgrades would be for power/speed improvement be? I just want some basic improvements to get it to be speedy, but maybe not a HP monster lol.
I have a 16 STI, just do regular maintenance on it and make sure you monitor the oil level often and you should not have a problem. If you mod. it make sure you get it tuned ....
Hey man loved the video! I have a 2018 and have been doing the oil changes at every 6k because it’s what my dealer recommended. Do they use oil that lasts longer? Lol or should I just change it at 3k from now on
Subarus OE oil that they use is not the best. If your still within your warranty and want to retain it, I would continue to go by the dealers recommendations until your warranty is up if not I would suggest doing them every 3K miles though. I've always done 3K changes on all my subarus and never had a single issue with any of them. I wouldn't trust mine at 6k intervals
I can’t speak for the EJ, but I feel like the FA on the newer wrx are pretty solid when left stock. Great advice for modified cars but I feel regular recommended service is perfectly fine for a stock 15+ wrx especially with the Toyota involvement making this engine very reliable if kept stock
@@Thebearwand FA, im unsure about his engine mods but he had it repaired quite quickly as he somehow managed to put it on the dyno this week and achieve high HP ranges... Soo ill say modified right now at least.
JustJake well highly modified engines can break, well except for the 2jz lmao, and it sounds like your friend has more than just a Bolt on or two. Hope his engine stays sturdy and if he has any updates on the car on YT or social media I’d love to see the build. I’m keeping mine stock mostly because I don’t have the money to modify it properly but Knock on wood I’ve had no issues at 50k miles
Buy an older evo? Sorry, i tried really hard to say that without a giant smile at the civil unrest it would cause. In all seriousness, i also have an STi. Strangely enough, ive also followed your upgrade path without following you or your videos. LOVE my STi LOVED my EVO before that LOVED my DSM's before that. If its turbo and an under dog. I love hurting feelings with it! Will continue to do so until i no longer need car seats. And im 35 and already turning grey. The looks you get dropping 4 kids off at school with a giant wing. LOVE that too.
@@Smeedia I know everything. Literally anything you could ever want to know. There are certain years with certain parts that you'll want. Sold my laser 2 yrs ago with 486hp. Self tuned by me( Like my sti). I had 4 turbo AWD's starting in 06. From right at 300hp to my laser being the last. I can answer any questions you have if you want. Really, no problem
Having driven Subarus for 27 years as well as working in the service department at a Subaru dealer for a few of those years, I have some issues with this.
Oil, trans/diff, replacement intervals are great. Acutally, the trans/diff could go every 15k. Most don't realize how hot the diff fluids actually get. It's easy, cheap insurance. I see no reason to replace coolant every 15,000 miles.
Spark plugs on the other hand, can most certainly wait. You run the risk of messing up the threads in your heads by doing it more than needed. A properly tuned and maintained Subaru does not detonate anymore than any other turbocharged car, and surely not enough to damage spark plugs in my experience. If you are wearing out spark plugs, there are other issues.
AOS? Meh. I don't think a properly set up one is a bad idea, but it is surely not absolutely needed. Subaru's PCV system is complex and designed to be as efficient as it could be with restraints for emissions. If you have THAT much oil getting into your intake system, there might be other issues. For a non-tracked daily driver, money could be better spent elsewhere IMHO. A tracked car is a bit of a different story.
Oil pick up? I don't disagree with the fact that a KillerB pick up is great insurance, I do disagree with your excitement that someone's stock pick up WILL CRACK. There are over 200,000 WRX and WRX STi's sold in the US, plus Forester, Baja, and Legacy and Outback turbo cars as well. The amount of cracked pick ups is a fraction of a fraction of the cars that are on the road. Now, if you are paranoid, by all means, replace it. You don't want to be the "lottery winner" when it comes to cracked oil pick ups.
Radiator. Unless you are doing track days, there is no good reason to spend money on a radiator. Subaru's Calsonic radiators work perfectly fine for almost everyone. I believe the older WRX STi Group N(and possibly even Group A) cars all used the oem radiator. STi does now offer a Group N radiator for the VAB cars, but it may have as much to do with not getting clogged with dirt/mud/etc as it does with actual cooling efficiency.
Cooling mod I have no issue with. But it works by getting hot coolant out of the head faster, not by pumping coolant into the head.
A proper tune goes without saying. But, while it's not a fail safe, I would go to a Cobb Certified Tuner. This industry is weird in the sense that anyone can call themselves a "Pro" and because they know a bit more than the customer, the customer thinks they are a genius. The end user REALLY needs to do a lot of research before they gave the local "pro" money to tune their car.
I'm surprised you did not touch at all on an equal length exhaust manifold at all. Just by design, they are more efficient with removing exhaust from the engine. I am not saying unequal length manifolds are the "smoking gun" when it comes to un-reliability, but I surely would spend the money on an equal length manifold before an external wastegate if reliability is your main concern.
A good piece of advice is to always use OEM parts until you can't to achieve your goals. The best tuner parts in the world cannot come close to the amount of R&D and real world testing an oem manufacturer can provide, not to mention quality and fit and finish. The farther you stray away from oem, the farther you stray away from reliabiltiy. If an EWG or oil cooler or FMIC or whatever is absolutely necessary to achieve your goals, than fine. The problem is for the vast majority of car owners, it really isn't.
You may be talking about new Subarus in this video, but I would have to say the number one problem I have seen over the years is that guys buy a WRX with 120,000 miles on it want to start modding it immediately. Ever pull your coolant temp sensor to see the corrosion on it? Think your stock O2 and MAF sensors are still reading spot on? Your ECU kind of relies on your MAF for...everything. Just give it a spray with MAF cleaner, I'm sure it will be good as new. How long you going to keep driving on oem coolant hoses? Not the radiator hoses, but the heater, TB and turbo coolant hoses. How about all, and I mean ALL the vacuum lines? You think they are still nice and soft and sealing perfectly? How many times in the last 18 years do you think your coil packs fired? They begin to wear out before they actually start "missing". This is the number one problem with Subaru and reliability. Before you buy a used Subaru, you should put aside $2,000-3000(just for parts) just to get it back up to spec before you ever think about doing any modding whatsoever. These kids only see videos on "Built blocks, AOS's, EWGs, FMIC's,etc." and then get pissed because they are stranded on the side of the road because their 17 year old alternator died.
IscaSullo What oil would you recommend for a 2020 STI? Thanks
@IscoSullo I have a question. I just bought a 2010 impreza for a steal of a deal but besides it being stock I have no clue what maintenance has been done to it an was wondering what a 100k mile service would look like? I'm thinking spark plugs, coil packs, timing belt alignment, fuel filter. If you have anything else to add that would be awesome. Im someone that cares more about reliability then big power. Thankyou
What temp does the diff hit extended driving 80mph, 100mph, 120mph? Just curious as I've had very cool tacoma differentials before. The outback differential seemed faily cool. But I've also seen some hot subaru differentials like there wasn't enough backlash or something was wrong.
Well stated with facts and experience.
@@PQR5CHE I have been running Motul Xclean. I have Blackstone Labs reports showing the motor is doing well with it. I have yet to have to add Oil between the 3k mile interval changes.
Do not run cheap off the shelf oil in this motor. It needs quality Synthetic oil.
“How to make the wrx/sti reliable”
- Don’t mod it 😂.
That's no fun though 😫
don't forget , buy it brand new
PR1NCETD0T my stock wrx just blew up the other day /:
gabe chimichanga money shifted? Old motor? Or factory defect?
Don't mod it without supporting software...
"I've had 7 STI's" sounds funny in the dirty way, I'm sorry. lol
Lol what can I say I like to get weird 🤣
How to make your Subaru reliable. Build the engine, use stronger head studs, and buy a Kevlar headgasket. Will be fine forever. Done.
That’s expensive :/
gotta pay to play
@@erickpina8802 not as expensive as you'd think tbh
Keep it stock drive it for what it is buy a warranty that’s it. If you wanna build a car buy a older one build the motor exactly what Andy said
I just got my subaru, is this all? Sounds easy enough. What else?
I really enjoyed this video: I appreciate that you have these mods in stages, and actually address reliability. Most videos I see are just first mods kind of videos, but never mention reliability, so thank you for that. I also really love that you recommend, not only parts, but the brands that you use or know are good. I feel confident enough to come back to your channel for installs and reliable information. Although I don't have my STI anymore, I plan to get another one in the future and do the stage 2 stuff you recommended ( because I was over that stock power real quick lol). Thank you for the helpful info! Subscribed!🤗🤗🤗🤗
Thank you for the support! I'm glad that you are able to get some value out of the video! 😁😁😁
Most ppl usually list them as Safety Mods.
It really all comes down to How you drive. If you drive it daily and don't go fast & the furious all day everyday and keeping it stock with regular maintenance your car will last longer.
Coolant and plugs at 15k is insanely wasteful.
I like to stay on top of it 🤷♂️
Smeedia yep.The more you change the plug the better ! I change mine every 12mhs .I drive 12-15 thousand KMs a year!
I would say 30k
Corvus556 You sound broke. Stick to Corollas bro
Depends on what your setup is.
I am a simple man, I see white board I click like
I like your style 😍
Good to know since I’m a brand new owner of a 2019 WRX ! Great vid bro.
PS the level of the white board is bugging the hell out of me hahaha !
The tapping was killing me, I had no idea I was tapping on it until I went to edit the video 🤣
CHINOsauvecito great news for you, the fa20 in your WRX is a lot less likely to blow up then a ej255/57 stock or basic bolt ons
Love that driving style was on top of the list, I got 2 family members that treat everything like a race car and blame the car for failures, smh...
Plays one of the biggest factors in the life span 🙏
Overall great video, although a few things I'd recommend differently are installing the cylinder 4 cooling mod and the oil pickup even if you are stock. The pickups can crack/break at any power level because they are garbage and the cooling mod will allow you to push your DD more reliably and its only $80. If you are considering an oil cooler, CSF racing actually makes a radiator with a built in oil cooler which is a great package. Also one of the biggest bangs for you buck as far as mods go (I know this will annoy some) is pick up a set of equal length headers, and lastly what should be common sense.... find a local reputable speed shop and talk to them about your goals to get keep your baby running happy.
For oil, you really should be using a higher quality ester based oil like Motul/Redline/AMSoil/Schaeffers. They have a much higher HTHS rating and will better lubricate and protect your car, running Brotella is the oil equivalent of slapping on a VTA BOV and saying "Well my car hasn't blown up so it's not hurting anything"
I'll look into the CSF, haven't heard of them before. If it has a built in oil cooler that's fantastic. I agree with you on the ELH, I've always swapped out for a ELH, with this car I'll be swapping to the Killer B when the time comes. I had the Perrin set on my 07 STI and they were alright ish. I use Motul for all my other fluids, I'll snag some of their 5-30 and give it a try.
A Subaru is not reliable it’s a experience if you want something reliable buy a Corolla
Toyota IA 👀
Keep it completely stock.
Awesome video! I subbed for more content check out my channel on my 2017 STI when you get a chance! Keep up the good work!
0:13 that’s not something you hear everyday
BOTTOM LINE PEOPLE; DON'T TUNE YOUR CARS.
I HAVE DONE THIS FOR MANY YEARS AND LEARNED THE HARD WAY AND WASTED A LOT OF MONEY AND EXERTED A LOT OF EFFORT.
NO AMOUNT OF PRO TUNES OR PARTS CAN MATCH THE BALANCE AND HARMONY OF A CAR FROM FACTORY.
A WISE MAN ONCE TOLD ME; IF YOU WANT A FAST CAR, BUY A FAST CAR.
If you want the car to be reliable always do your maintenance on time don’t cheap out on parts and don’t drive like you stole it once in a while no problem but either than that it should last a while
Step one, swap in toyota parts. Step two drive it for 4-5x the normal length a subaru lasts
@the machinist yes thats why Toyota went with Subaru engine in the 86 and got Subaru to build the cars when they built their BRZ. Performance Toyota engines in past ten years?????? Even the new Supra has a BMW engine and build.. The days of the 1JZ and 2JZ are long gone.
Want a reliable sti? Don't modify the engine. Do everything but engine. No tuning. Do u wanna trust someone you just met (tuner) with your 30k investment? And sign a waiver saying if it blows up on the dyno he isn't responsible for it?. This is my opinion. Keep your sti stock and buy another tuner car aka Honda for the price of your sti fmic.
You've got solid points, all depends on perspective from what you want out of the car. The most reliable thing to do would be dont touch it, stay on top of maintenance and drive it reasonably. But the majority of owners want to modify. But like you said all perspective based!
this has been working well so far. anything but the engine..
African Dude Tuner over the stock tune any day.
I accidentally clicked on this while trying to find shmee
Ya see your first mistake was.... "use any oil" are you nuts? (no disrespect) I worked at the drag strip for years where many of the top mechanics and world class racers HIGHLY recommended: whether you race, drag, street, or daily driver, even your moms mini van --- use full synthetic AMSOIL.........period!!! do your research people, third party lab tested etc... best protection anyone can put in their engine!!
Cant control what oil people choose to use, but I agree with you. I've started a mini series testing different brand oils after running them through my car. I use black stone labs to test the oil then I verify it as well with a spectrometer that i have at work. Regardless you are right, however; cant make people use certain oils
watching all this vids while saving up for my dream car
You'll get there! 🙏🙏🙏
dont run an hks bov unless you're speed density? i disagree lol
and for level 3.... out of all the mods you listed, you forgot the MOST important mod there is to any car. fucking tires!
your level 3 should've just been with level 2. not everyone at the track has a built block. i see stock s2000's with tires and suspensions shaming the more expensive euro cars and same with the subies/evo's. sorry bro but i highly doubt you track lol since you forgot TIRES.
ewg's aren't even all that necessary. some track events even have db levels (for example weather tech laguna seca).
you can literally track a stock motor sti with just suspension and tires. from there you'll start figured out exactly what you need.
Tires dont play into reliability. I agree with you that tires are a must do. But for not blowing up an engine your tires dont play a role in that.
this definitely confirmed it for me. Nice video man, I'm saving up for an STI (any year from 2015-now) and it was soo helpful
Thank you! Hopefully you get yours soon! They're fun cars for sure 😁
I have found that the owners are the problem. Im taking to you people with your stupid intakes and downpipes. But back to the subject, to make your subaru reliable drive it to a toyota dealership and trade it in for a camry. You're welcome.
B P Camry succ bal
How to keep your WRX STI or Lan Evo Reliable 🤔🤔 don't be like American white boys an make them into drag cars . Thay are Rally Cars for the Street .... Not ment to be 800/900+HP Streight Line Monsters ..... That's what you guys have your Muscle cars for 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
you should specify with the OTS tunes that if you have just what they list like a full exhaust and intake they are actually not that bad i tried to book in with a cobb protuner with my 2+ kit and he said dont bother and waste your money the ots tune is pretty spot on i dont get hardly any feedback knock and barely any real knock ever
Nice video man. Can’t wait to start building my 2019 sti. Thanks for the great advice! I never even thought about changing the spark plugs that early but I think I’ll do that first
Appreciate the support! I like to stay on top of the plugs when I can. If you look at my Spark Plug video you can see just how fouled they get just after 15k miles. Its insane
Welp kinda late to say this, but don't. Plugs are not worn out or fouled at 15k, and if they are, you got bigger problems.
Subaru recommends 60K but when you start making more power I'd still suggest swapping them at 20-30K. More powers going to reduce the life span of the plugs.
With more horse power shouldn’t you use a heavier oil so when it heats up it doesn’t turn as thin as water when you're pushing 400hp.
Ideally yes, it will also help with retaining the thicker viscosity if any contamination were to get in the oil
Great vid! However I must say that the GDT cooling mod pulls hot coolant out of the head via low pressure return of the heater hose and back to the water pump rather than pushing coolant into the head.
The biggest factor that makes this car "unreliable" is that owners think this is a race car from the factory. It's not. End of story.
Thanks for giving the community a different insight for a mod path.
Good to know how it works a little better, I've seen good results from it so we shall see how it does in the near future. Trying to give. Little more value to the community for some of the basic Questions I've seen out there
Great points, Joe. Reliability>>Power !
Not hating but damn man, can you just dumb it down a bit and speak slower? Lol
Fixed that with newer stuff 🙏
Don't modify it. Problem solved.
Well that's just no fun
you can still do basic mods ie:bolt-ons only and it will not risk or change the reliability of it all
YocoWheelin stock EJ’s spin bearings and crack ringlands just as much as modded ones, they are ticking time bombs. You can stave off some of the factory defects with mods, such as a oil catch can, EL header, oil cooler (basically every cooling mod you can do really), and a quality protune.
AznPitbull 23 yeah like straight pipe it and get a cold air intake without a tune, that won’t hurt it at all
You seriously mean to tell me, modding a EJ motor doesn't effect the probability of a spun bearing?
would love to install the aos on my car but it's illegal in California and I won't be able to pass smog with it :(
So strict down there 😪😭
*blows heads gasket in sarcasm*
@the machinist nope. original phase 1 EJ25 DOHC original leaked usually internally, the later phase 2 SOHC ones also leaked usually externally, 3 generations of legacys - ~1994 - ~2009
@the machinist yup NA
Just picked up a used 2018 WRX STI with 20k miles. New to subarus and wondered if you could answer a question for me…. While sitting idle the other day, I noticed a slight clicking noise (doubt video would pick it up). When I press the clutch pedal in, it goes away. Car drives fine/shifts fine. Not sure if this is normal or if I have an issue. Any help you could give would be great. Thanks!
Wouldent sweat it too much, if it progressively gets louder then I would. Subarus tend to be a bit noisy. Congrats on the car!
@@Smeedia Thanks for the reply! I’ll keep watch on it and see. Heard STI’s tend to be a bit noisy, just making sure I didn’t have a problem to worry about already, trying to enjoy the car!
Awesome energy and great advice. Thank you.
Thank you 😁
So I just got my 2020 sti with 14k miles. It still has factory warranty and I plan to have the car for a long time and eventually build it up. It is my dd but I do ride my motorcycle to work when it is nice to keep miles off my car. I really want to get an air oil separator but it will void my warranty. Are their any other options? Anything I should watch out for? I check my oil weekly and I dont beat on my car besides a nice 3rd to 4th pull every now and again. I really need to keep it alive till its paid off and I can throw my money into the motor.
It can create complications on warranty but some dealers are cool with them. Just stay ontop of maintenance and you shoukdent have any issues. Congrats on the car 😁
@@Smeedia thanks man. I've learned alot from you videos. Once the subaru warranty is up ill probably start adding parts because the dealer i bought the car from is cool and the warranty i bought with them will take me to 100k miles or 6 years.
Thanks so much for the video! Only found your stuff recently but I'm really enjoying the Subie-centric content. I'm looking at modding my 2010 STI (we talked on another video of yours about transmissions) and my goal is ultimately for a "powerful, reliable daily driver". I'm looking at an AOS, oil sump, cylinder cooling, downpipe and potentially injectors. And a tune of course. Maybe the rebuild isn't as necessary as I thought, but this video suggests I'm finding some good answers and going in a good direction. My target is about 350 HP.
I guess if I was adding all this stuff, I'd pretty much have to tune it upon installation, right? That goes for about $700 USD where I'm from. I can't really buy everything all at once, so what's the best way to do this? Just buy the parts, and then when I'm ready install + tune all at once? Also, does it sound like I'm picking a good path to get my EJ257 to 350HP?
Stock pile the parts until your ready for a tune, install it all at once then tune and you should be good to go 🔥🙏
@@Smeedia Thanks for that mate. Bloody hell, feels like I have a bit to catch up on because one thing I'm watching and commenting on your slightly older vids, next thing you're putting an EG33 in 😆
Can you drop me your Insta? I want to follow, support, and be here as you grow! Also do you think the engine swap will mean your content is going to change quite a bit moving forward? Not so much the process of the swap, but subsequent videos after that?
Not really, we have 2 other EJ cars here that need work so just opens up a little more diversity 😁 and Instagram is @Smeedia_
😁😁
Owner mod installed correctly is the one and only true way to keep ANY car reliable.
actually good advice from someone who did his research. I'll send people to this video.
Thank you! It is greatly appreciated!
80% true ,but....
When you talked about front diff maintenence, you said to keep it tight. How do you adjust the backlash with the trans still in the car? The shop manual only covers this proceedure when the trans is on the workbench. Thanks!
My G I'm going to build my dream sti to 800 Hp this vid will help out in the future
My first STI was an 08, I miss my old hatch sometimes. Glad that it will be helpful to you! Whatcha got planned for it?
Changing your spark plugs every 10,000 miles, you're going to completely smooth out the threads in the head.....
Never had that issue on my 06,07,08 or 11 STI and I've religiously changed them at those intervals. As long as your not over tightening them you should be fine
Literally helping me a lot with my build. Forsure gonna put those notifications on. Sound and look like a great guy. Keep it up man!!
Thank you for the support, its appreciated 😁 happy that everyone's getting some value out of these videos! If ya ever have any requests fell free to shoot them my way and I'll see what I cam do to cover them! 😁
if the wheels were clean it would've made the video...
Too rainy in washington state to keep them clean in the winter 😫
@@Smeedia i feel that new york is shitty as well
How to make a Subaru reliable?...... sell it and buy another car
3k miles is a good rule of thumb if your car is semi-new and you don't beat on it. Better practice is to check your oil every time you fill up it's pretty easy to tell when your oil is getting worn out. If you happen to have a tunnel in your daily commute like me you might be looking closer to 1.5k-2k miles, check your oil not your odometer.
Lol the tunnels get us everytime 🤣 but your right checking the oil when filling up is good practice to follow. Especially if your car consumes a good amount.
@@Smeediawhy tunnels?
He forgot to mention levels 4 through 10 ?🤔
We don't have the Technology :(
Oil catch cans, proper fueling and octane, equal length headers, letting them properly warm up before hooning, and good tune
Are you saying that my STI I bought new wont remain reliable if I follow the service schedule and do not mod?
Not to say that it wont remain reliable, that depends on your driving style. But I've seen a plethora of Factory STIs fail even with the recommended service intervals. Personal preference I like to get it done prior
Well still in break-in mode. Just bought it and it has 700 miles on it. Maybe 5-8k miles a year. So I guess if I change twice a year its still 3k-4k OCI.
I would also check ur oil level every time u fill up ur car. And I only run e85 93 sucks lol
k
proper driving habits go a long way
Where did you get that wing for your subaru?
APR performance 🙏🙏🙏
Sell it before it breaks
Funny you mentioned a built block. I got my sti a few months back and already looking at purchasing/rebuilding a 2JZ to toss in there in a couple of years. But, after having two cars with the 2J and owning my first ej, I must say I loveee my Subaru. Great tips! Much needed
Thank you for the support! We just finished building my buddy's 2J 240. Great engines and they can take a beating for sure. EJs are just weird engines but for some reason I love them lol
I agree with all of the stuff you have listed in your description. I am definitely investing in most of that stuff, especially the oil pan/pickup/cooler. I have cylinder 4 mod and AOS already.
“I’m gunna keep this reliable but push as much power possible while stock”
That's the goal! I've been itching to buy a built block but want to see how far I can really push my OE block before she goes.
So, I'd really like to have a WRX but where I live there aren't mechanics specialized in Subarus. I drive around 3k miles a year, and would do the safety mods would you say it's worth getting one ?
How to make a Subaru reliable lmao DONT GET ONE !!
Get a evo
the machinist mine been for a while now 500 on stock block
Travis Moss Only good thing about the Evo is the block. Lmao
Man, I’ve been seen all these UA-camrs with their nice Subarus or just any other car, one thing they all have in common, they all install nice expensive parts and awesome killer tunes making beast power, but never touch maintenance and then they wonder why they break.
3k mile oil changes fuck man, do you guys get oil dilution or what.
We TDI guys keep extending the 10k intervals to 12 or further lmao.
It is reliable......
just don't fuck with it and drive it correctly....
Most people don't actually know the right way to even USE a clutch.
I want a reliable car, i can do the maintenance when it needs, don’t wanna go crazy with the mods wanna keep it semi stick but can’t afford brand new, you think a used sti under 70k will be a good option as to reliability ?
Do not buy a Crawford V3 they are known for being called Dairy Queen oil milkshake machines I had issues with mine because they don’t connect to the vent ports on driver and passenger vent hoses just get IAG
Should I put AOS if i have stock intercooler? it asks me "w top or front intercooler" but dont know what to pick. sorry for dumb question
Honestly I'm really starting to wonder why people buy these cars at all. Like do you have to replace the whole dam car or something for it to be reliable. Are you guys just looking for a good awd platform and everything else is shit outside the powertrain. Why do you have to replace so many parts on the car that are already there, what's wrong with the factory radiator, factory intercooler, factory air intake, why do you need to add an iag. Are these cars just unreliable badly tuned vehicles with cheap stock parts. I dont get why every video it's like you have to replace the whole dam engine bay to add like 50hp. What's wrong with the parts that are already in the car and why doesn't Subaru already have good parts in it when you buy it or do people just like to replace everything just to spend money.
How much of this applies to a VB WRX with an intake, AOS, and Drunkmann tune as a daily driver?
Hey man I recent bought a used 2017 wrx i put less then a 1k miles car seem to run strong and everything but i notice a-bit like slight wine on cold start and from the turbo i popped the intake off and the turbo has broken corners off every single turbine🥴 took it back to the dealership they telling me to get fucked, and they are not and they wont warranty even though its under warranty, what do you think the proper way to fix this and making sure there isn’t metal in my engine somewhere? Im assuming this was done with previous owner the dealership hide it from me when the sold it to me
Sparks and coolant does not have to be changed that frequently, that's egregious
I’ve been contemplating on getting a 2008-2013 wax sti hatchback as a winter car and I’ve been trying to find sources that’ll help me know what to lookout for and what to do once I get the car and without a doubt this has been the most helpful video! Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
Hopefully your able to find one and glaf the videos are helping! 😁
Keep it stock
Don’t drive the crap out of it and it’s one of the most reliable cars on the road
If only there were recommendations on Vapes and Energy Drinks to go with your Subie. 🤔
I suggest bang and Juuls 👀
Smeedia, bruuuh!
@@robertb.4202 brooooooooo 😱
were not mad for abusing our cars were mad that almost every other car can be treated the same way and either have small issues only or just none. subarus are built like shit from the factory thats why people hate them, why tf do i got to spend 50 grand to get 500hp and it not even be reliable
Is t the answer to the title, leave it stock? Should the title be “How to make a modified badass WRX/ STi reliable” 😂
If you can’t find or spend too much money on a tune. MAPerformance stage 1 tune for 1 year before i got a E-tune and literally had no problems
“Radiator! They’re cheap you can get one for like $300 bucks!”
Me: 🚪 🏃♂️ 💨
When you say differential and trans are you talking fluids? Or something else. My expertise hasn’t taken me into the trans/diff hands on yet lol
If you need to make a brand new 50k car reliable then you need another car. I expect a 50k car to work properly right off the gate this is a joke
Want it reliable. Leave the motor and drive train alone. Put your money into handling and brakes. Not a towel rack on your boot. Learn to drive.
With any car if you abuse it it's going to have a short life with the original motor. Mods are not going to make it unreliable if you do it properly and have the proper supporting mods for that you want to get out of it. It really comes down you if you're red lining your car constantly and launching it at every stop. Your car going to blow.
Would you run a cylinder 4 bypass and a radiator on a stock wrx?
They are reliable, just like any other engine, if you keep them stock, but not even a minute into the video and the "400hp on stock motor" comes in lmao
“I’ve had 7 STI’s”…. Sheeeeeit bro, wrap it up lol
😅😅😅😅😅
All your suggestions for sure!!....... important longer-term care, timing belt (at least) every 100,000, and do the water pump whilst your in there.......if you lose either of these components you are f'd.........timing belt failure usually means valves thru your pistons, and a water pump goin dead means instant overheat....ie: in subies-instant head gasket failure!.....................other than that, i'm still making an old OBS into a sti/wrx+, so I started with suspension/brake upgrades...................many love, much props
Thank you! And for sure, the timing belt is another one that gets over looked also, appreciate the comment! 😁
Looked at a lot of your content and it's great. I just bought an 08 a month ago... Sadly my experience hasn't been well... I'm having a no crank issue with my 2008 WRX, everything lights up but it just doesn't crank at all I don't hear a fuel prime nor do I hear relays or switches in my cabin when I put the key in attempt to start the car. The car was running fine prior to this... All I did was swap out coil two and four along with new plugs and put the battery back the car started up just fine. I was getting a P0304.
She started up and ran for about 30 minutes with no issues.
As I pulled away it's simply stopped running while my instruments and everything else was on at the end of my block. I turned the key.. Panel lights up but no crank at all.
Everything has red 12.6 and I have not found a blown fuse yet. After several hours of testing I gave up and sent the car to the dealer.
Subaru is the 1st car to ever defeat me.
What do you think it could be?
2008 wrx 2.5L turbo 5 speed with 166xxx miles.
Thanks
From my experience with an issue like this it's bad battery, blown fuse, bad relay or a damaged harness. From what you've already checked I'd say something in the harness. Not a fun time 😕
Run synthetic oil and change it less often. It is much better oil and doesn't need to be changed as often.
i can only find the oil pick up tube online. I have wrx 2018
How? Trust that Japanese engineers working in those companies know more about the engine design than you do.
@smeedia What would the best non-warranty violating bolt-on upgrades would be for power/speed improvement be? I just want some basic improvements to get it to be speedy, but maybe not a HP monster lol.
Unfortunately nothing really 😪 some dealers are cool with basic mods but I'd check with them prior
I have a 16 STI, just do regular maintenance on it and make sure you monitor the oil level often and you should not have a problem. If you mod. it make sure you get it tuned ....
Pretty much, regular maintenance goes far on these cars and is so often over looked for some reason.
Hey man loved the video! I have a 2018 and have been doing the oil changes at every 6k because it’s what my dealer recommended. Do they use oil that lasts longer? Lol or should I just change it at 3k from now on
Subarus OE oil that they use is not the best. If your still within your warranty and want to retain it, I would continue to go by the dealers recommendations until your warranty is up if not I would suggest doing them every 3K miles though. I've always done 3K changes on all my subarus and never had a single issue with any of them. I wouldn't trust mine at 6k intervals
Do you not recommend the grimmspeed AOS?
No sir, either radium, IAG or Crawford
@@Smeedia ok gotcha thanks!
Do I need the complete killer b baffle? or what the real important part?
I can’t speak for the EJ, but I feel like the FA on the newer wrx are pretty solid when left stock. Great advice for modified cars but I feel regular recommended service is perfectly fine for a stock 15+ wrx especially with the Toyota involvement making this engine very reliable if kept stock
I haven't seen too many problems out of the newer WRXs they seem pretty solid!
I know a guy who just blew his low end recently so...
@@TimberWulfIsHere couple of questions, First, was he driving a FA (WRX) engine or the EJ (STI). second, was he stock or was he modified?
@@Thebearwand FA, im unsure about his engine mods but he had it repaired quite quickly as he somehow managed to put it on the dyno this week and achieve high HP ranges... Soo ill say modified right now at least.
JustJake well highly modified engines can break, well except for the 2jz lmao, and it sounds like your friend has more than just a Bolt on or two. Hope his engine stays sturdy and if he has any updates on the car on YT or social media I’d love to see the build. I’m keeping mine stock mostly because I don’t have the money to modify it properly but Knock on wood I’ve had no issues at 50k miles
hey, where can I do the proper tune for level 2? in Subaru dealer?
Buy an older evo? Sorry, i tried really hard to say that without a giant smile at the civil unrest it would cause. In all seriousness, i also have an STi. Strangely enough, ive also followed your upgrade path without following you or your videos.
LOVE my STi LOVED my EVO before that LOVED my DSM's before that. If its turbo and an under dog. I love hurting feelings with it! Will continue to do so until i no longer need car seats. And im 35 and already turning grey. The looks you get dropping 4 kids off at school with a giant wing. LOVE that too.
High key jelly of that evo, funny enough I've actually been looking into a DSM since evo prices are ridiculous. 😅
@@Smeedia I know everything. Literally anything you could ever want to know. There are certain years with certain parts that you'll want. Sold my laser 2 yrs ago with 486hp. Self tuned by me( Like my sti). I had 4 turbo AWD's starting in 06. From right at 300hp to my laser being the last. I can answer any questions you have if you want. Really, no problem
All Subarus are reliable. Turbocharged Subarus just reliably blow up.
Leave it stock and maintain it well. Ya good we covered that ok next video
Plot twist:
You dont.
One of the things on how to make it reliable is to use 20W-50 oil