I'm running Swift springs on OE replacement KYBs and it's absolutely gorgeous, still handles like a beast but maintains much of the comfort of the stock suspension
Same, I’m running bilstein b12’s with H&R springs. Ride quality is very close, maybe even better than stock, but feel way better in corners. Coil overs are nice if you’re tracking your car and need to be able to make adjustments for track conditions but usually overkill for daily drivers especially if you don’t know how to dial them in (which I don’t think most people do lol). Also, I used to run coil overs on my last car and during the winter the perch ring threads would get loaded up with salt and debris and became an absolute mess. Spring/shock set up is much easier to maintain imo
I'm so glad I found your channel when I started modding my wrx. Watching your setups and recommendations compared to using my friends advice ( he blew threw two motors in his sti) has helped me pick the right parts and is the reason why my car runs so good
Your subuaru channel is like the ONLY good one out there because you actually talk succinctly and don't ramble and you're not yelling at us or acting like a total hoonigan. I'm really enjoying this content
This is completely true. Before I had the money to get an Etune I was running Cobb catted dp with a k&n intake and the car ran horrible and had so many issues that I couldn't figure out but once i went and got the tune all of those problems went way and the car runs phenomenal now. Love the vids man.
This is well thought out and delivered in a good way. Getting your car tuned properly for any mod is HUGE!! You can do exhaust all day and not worry, but if you touch ANYTHING on the intake side you need a tune. I would add do not get an etune if you have replaced anything. I had an appointment at fathouse fab for a dyno tune before I replaced part one. Of course part one was $6k in parts and had my check engine light on all the way there, but the drive home was fabulous!
Excellent list and couldn’t agree more. Might I add ‘track focused mods’? Many car enthusiasts don’t seem to understand that a car set up for the track, will be a very poor daily driver street car. Examples would be track brake pads (which are generally noisy and require heating up before braking properly), solid mounts and metal bushings (which you touched on already), brake bias controllers and semi-slick tires (if you see any rain during the year).
LOVE LOVE LOVE these discussion videos! Please do a DEEP DIVE video on suspension / handling upgrades. I have almost all of the Whiteline suspension parts + BC coils on my car, and addicted to the grip! I would love a video on levels of suspension upgrades, whether (and what kind of...) chassis bracing is worth it, and what is / is not worth the $ for suspension parts. PS... I'm the white SF5 Forester you smashed on the last live stream! I promise to take better photo next time so you don't have to hum/haw about the smash lol
Yes please do this!!! I am building a 14 wrx and don’t car much for any power over 300 whp but would love for a sweet video from you on suspension upgrades so I can tear up the canyons here in Utah!
Current set up: JDM 4/2 pots with braided lines, and BMC brace (trying to source an STI BMC if you think it’s worthwhile) BC Coilovers Whiteline sway bars + endlinks (switching to GNP end links soon) Roll centre kit + anti lift (caster) kit STi carbon Front / WL rear strut tower bars She’s a daily so open to suggestion on keeping stock bushing, or which to replace. Also looking for advice on whether (or WHEN) lower control arms / trailing arms are worth the expense. I have a set of STI aluminum control arms ready to install but want to finalize my suspension set up because that will be alignment # 3 since I keep upgrading the suspension set up :) Working on a 2.5L RS-Ti street + track weapon build next, so I’d love to hear recommendation on daily v track day suspension upgrades. Fozzy bear (my SF5) is a 2000 JDM Forester St/B. OEM+ theme inside and out. Apart from the turbo back and suspension, all OEM+ STI Type MII interior (full black/on/black), V1 STI front seats, V9 STi wheel, STI TMIC, gold BBS wheels (summer), forged pro drive wheels (winter). Just missing the SF5 STI rear seats and e-brake handle to finish the STI interior. OEM drivetrain since I cannot open source tune the OEM ECU… so big sad, and hence the RS build next
Spent $900 on D2 coils for my BMW they are stiff, however, I’ve had them on for over 3 years and had no issues. They are middle of the road comfort could be better but I’m pleased with how they have preformed
Gotta give a big shout out I order a hoodie for my wife for the first engine giveaway but it unfortunately arrived with a big burn from the printer. But not the point my wife messages and was immediately taken care of with a replacement on the way so if you're even the slightest worried about buying his merchandise just know he stands behind it and makes sure everyone is happy. Thank you tanner for helping her and it's awesome to see the channel and blubaru growing.
My car came stock with 16s which do not clear calipers on 13" rotors. My spare is rear only lol. If i get a front flat i have to swap it with a rear and put spare on the back. Guess i shouldve bought 5 rims...
Agree completely with everything on the list. Especially the tuning, I ran ots stage 1 with a catback for 7-8 years and over 100,000km between two different wrx's, and never had a single issue. The most important thing is, I'll say it louder for the kids in the back, HAVING THE RIGHT PARTS FOR THE TUNE!!! Lol. Side question because I keep getting distracted by it, but are you planning on sealing the headlight/inlet? I keep meaning to ask but always forget by the time I'm done watching the video
But Tanner, I put an intake, downpipe, and blowoff valve on my 16 sti on an OTS tune and it ran great! Then I cracked 2 pistons because I leaned out from my blowoff valve leaking and ended up costing me thousands. Now I'm in the process of doing it correctly so it never happens again. Learned the hard way but I learned!
Wouldnt that richen fuel? Not lean.. As the motor is losing air post maf. meaning it thinks its getting more air then it is thus adding more fuel. Least in boost. It leans the idle with air leaks as your losing vacuum.
@@ogfromutube9649 yeah, my car ran really rich in boost and really lean on idle and at slow speeds. I assume thats what caused my pistons to get hot and when i sent it with too much boost it caused cylinders 2 and 4 ringland failures and cylinder 4 to have a few small cracks around the top of the piston
@@rudecanadian9916 ouch... I ran my aem x series wideband into stock ecu. Since it has much faster response on short term fuel trims. One time maf was dirty i noticed afr was staying in 14s under wot so immediately let off. This is why wideband arer so important on higher then stock power levels and even stock. Modern volvo uses wideband from the factory. Also have my ecu tuned to flash engine light when knock/detonation is detected. Not super sensitivie tho. If more then 2 knocks deteced in a 1 second interval it triggers and i know to let off. Or if water meth isnt triggering. Also have low windshield washer fluid light on gauge wired into methanol resevoir. Stock ecu had a 3 bar map soldered in as well as stores 2 maps that i can switch on the fly. However i did not setup safeguards to auto switch maps on knock. The main difference between the 2 maps is ignition timing. Nor do i have flex fuel sensor for fuel quality. But we have no e85 here. So i use vp racing octanium with 93 super and am able to run 39* of timing advance. My ecu also had no way to control vvt cams. So we repurposed the rear o2 preheater wires to power the vvt solenoids at certain rpm/load points as the rear o2 is disabled and am running catless downpipe. Lots of stuff you can do to save your engine. Im running 23psi on a 50mm with stock internals just wont ramp in boost til over 3k to avoid bending rods. Also my 5cyl 20v is 8.5:1 cr. Headgaskets arent really a concern until much bigger turbos. The 2.3 with 83mm bore has thick cylinder walls so cracking is less prone then the 2.5 engines with 9.5:1 cr.
@@rudecanadian9916 same thing here, put a bov on when I was in highschool bc it “sounded cool” and don’t get me wrong, it sounded awesome, but I was losing SO MUCH AIR. It was dying at idle. It had some really nice pops and bangs as well, thankfully some other minor parts went out before any real damage was done and that scared me into going back to no bov. Could’ve been much worse. Not a very smart decision😂
Currently laying on the couch with a sore mouth and hating every second of it but the whole “Luther the Armadillo” thing was funny and made me feel better. I love the random tangents. Thanks for temporarily making me forget about the pain.
One thing to add is polyurethane shifter bushings. I bought the Kartboy short shifter kit with those bushings and now I’m getting noticeable NVH through my shifter 😭
Ive had my Raceland Primo coilovers on my 11 WRX for about two months now and they are phenominal so far, only oddity is shock noise on the fronts. Ride quality is pretty good and they're 15-way adjustable. Only thing left to see is longevity.
Just a pro tune made my car run more healthy and more powerful. And now I won't be installing the lightweight crank pulley my friend gave me.(I think ik why he gave it to me now) edit: smeedia is so cool, he hearted my comment like 6 months after he posted the video❤
You missed an unnecessarily strong clutch if lil Timmy is only at 300hp he doesn’t need a fucking track rated clutch that will just kill his daily driving experience
I would add a few more things. It drives me crazy when I see dangerous mods added just to look cool. Aftermarket steering wheel. I’d rather have an airbag. 6point roll cage on the street? Super dangerous with no helmet.
everyone who has an aftermarket steering wheel understands that it doesn't come with an airbag and they don't care. the video is about mods that result it negatives that aren't very obvious before you install them. hindsight 2020
100% agree with everything on this list I have one more huuuuge thing: 1.) If you decide to do a full "build" be brutally honest with yourself and set REALISTIC power goals. Nothing comes without a compromise. For example choose clearances that match how the car will be used. You may find yourself stuck with a noisy, piston slappy car that may be capable of big power, but it won't be a car you want to drive to work everyday.
I will never understand the idea that a daily should have any of these mods. I figured it out on my own about 20 years ago. If I can afford to pump all this money into a car I love to increase it's performance, I can afford to have a really cheap decent car to daily. What this video doesn't even touch on is the environmental damage done to a car that driven in rain/snow. Moisture destroys the parts under a car. Dirt holds moisture against surfaces longer, and road salt/brine does that while also drastically accelerating corrosion.
mk7.5 TSi Golf here (1.8t) OTS APR Stage1 tune no engine hardware modifications required BUT I insalled a proper front mount from CTSTurbo, a turbosmart full recirculating diverter valve and a neuspeed intake as well as a stage2 southbend clutch, a "turbo muffler delete" + second cat AND Muffler delete (kept OEM resonator) with that setup I KNOW I am not at full potential and that a proper tune would make more power.... but that's the thing, I don't want more ! I just want my IATs to be low and my Diverter valve NOT to stick as the OEM does +.. a clutch is never a bad idea.... there is some flaws in your reasonning,and while I agre with most of the things you said... some of us mod our car to be faster.....but not...rocket ships !
Also depends on the ECU and car. Some ECUs are nit capable of making suitable adjustments without tunes. VW ECUs have fantastic self learning properties. Each application and car will vary though 🤙
Just traded up to a 2021 STI from a 2020 WRX Premium with stage 2+. I 💯% agree with tuning!!! Tune for everything and try to stick with the same manufacturer. I went Grimmspeed everything engine wise with a Tomei cat-back and BrenTune 93shell map and loved it. Daily driven. No issues. Keep up the great content bro!!!!
Local cat from Renton here! Another great vid bro! Ive never broke any of these mod guidelines myself, but one of your vids a while back talked me out of a 50/50 B.O.V. ...So I installed a cobb sf intake with their "airbox" and I hear all the bypass valve i need and am loving it on my pro-tuned cobb stage 2.5 2004 wrx wagon daily driver. A mod I say to avoid is EBAY headlights... spec-D or anything like that. They "might" look cool in daytime but at night the light output and beam pattern are SHIT and unsafe at best
can confirm - the stock BPV with the cob intake sound incredible. it's not quite as loud of a "psh" noise but its still pretty sick. 10/10 would recommend
@@blakedavis1665 I have the Cobb SF intake + air box. I know they offer some overpriced carbon one or something but I doubt it sounds better. Looks nice though!
@@Telesko awesome thanks for the info. I just picked up my 2020 wrx and just have a Cobb catted turbo back exhaust and my accessport so it’s nice to hear good things about Cobbs intake
Solid info. A few other mods that can ruin your daily driver are cheap cast wheels that crack and fall apart (any size cheap rims will do this), cheap brakes and cheap brake rotors, cheap exhaust systems, and cheap ebay turbos. Every one of those listed I've seen end up bad.
100% agree with all of these. From personal experience as well. For example, the BOV. Mine was even a hybrid and had a massive leak, and I didn’t even know until I got a retune. On that, making sure you know what kind of tune you need in conjunction with the parts you had lol I was on a catless tune with that hybrid BOV leak for like a year lol
I had put polyurethane mounts on my Mustang ages ago, and all I did was make the car shake like crazy, and it actually cracked my bellhousing. I can't imagine metal to metal.
@@Smeedia yup, cracked about a 10 inch gash on the left hand side, it took about 4 months to do that though. Had to replace the bellhousing and ended up putting stock mounts back on the car. It was (and is) a shaky V8 though)
But why did the bit about NASIOC get me to literally laugh out loud 😂😂😂 And then “I can put whatever parts I want on my car” 😹😹 of course you need a tune
The lightweight crank is super dependent on the style of engine you have, like inline 4s will kill themselves with one, but an i6 will be perfectly fine. I remember reading somewhere that the older ejs dont even have a harmonic balancer because the boxer cycle of the engine is supposed to be self balancing
@@Smeedia for sure, the difference between an OEM pulley set and a lightweight/underdrive pulley set is minimal at best, and the $200 or so and time spent replacing them could easily be put into something like braided steel brake lines or lightweight flywheel that will drastically increase performance
Yeah, the idea is balance. I know that longer living and higher revving rotaries get the rotating assembly balanced with the flywheel and crank pulley to ensure minimum front to back forces. A lightweight flywheel will throw off crank balance just as much as a lightweight pulley.
@@foxunfocused idk im running a ttv 11lbs chrome moly single mass flywheel as it was pinned for a better heavier sachs 707 pressure plate. Little harder to rev match and harder on the calf muscle. But once used to it, it shaves about .2 off 1/4 mile. And has less drop during shifts. Also impossible to slip even 4th gear 3500rpm launches. Like Subaru volvo also has ton of rev hang but its supposed to.
got my 2013 PBP wrx wagon in nov last year finally did timing belt/throttlebody/radiator hoses, throttlebody hose/trans, rear diff flud/oil, filters, stock air filter/ and some stuff for suspension. feeling like a new car! can't wait to go cobb stage 2 with an ets cat back. ill be sure to get E-Tuned!
The wrong size wheels in regards to the offset was a great topic. Tire poke is extremely unsafe. Hit a a bad bump and bottom out on the fender and it's probable you are going to loose control and wreck.
Yep! I watched this happen to a Civic (because of course, right?) directly in front of me on I-95. Car looked awesome, rolling low and wide over some really meaty fit, but we came to an area where the road was being graded down, and POW, he was on the shoulder. Like, full, catastrophic blowout of his tire. I love poke, but you've gotta do it right. The top of the tire should still be able to clear your fender. Usually, stretched tires and cambered wheels so that you can tuck the top inside the fender. And it goes hand-in-hand with the cheapo suspensions. FFS people, if you're gonna lower your car, or go with crazy setups, make sure you know where it will bottom out. Properly adjust your damping. People cut 2" out of the stock spring to slam their car over some funky fitment, and then wonder why the hell they keep shredding tires or chewing the fender.
Lightweight pulleys destroy engines. Vibe analysis tech here. Harmonic dampers and bushings have a very important role in mitigating mechanical looseness cause by vibrations. Harmonic dampers are especially important in preventing resonance caused by the excitation of a parts natural frequency. A great example of failure is vibration tests on the shinook.
This actually had useful information in it, and didn't default to common answers. Though, I would like to add: Bigger turbos (not just slightly), FMIC (on WRX hatches in cold areas) and turbo blankets. Subies already lack in low-end torque to begin with, so having a significantly bigger turbo will make it annoying in stop-and-go traffic. As for turbo blankets, they're a major fire hazard, as they're a perfect wick whenever oil gets on them. Lastly, front-mount intercoolers are fine on most Subies, except for daily driven hatches in cold weather. This is pretty niche, but it's also incredibly annoying to deal with. To install a FMIC, you need to relocate your battery into the hatch. Except, there's no mechanical backup for the hatch, so if your battery ever drains, you're nearly screwed. You have to climb through the interior (between the front seats if the rears are locked), manage to fold down the seats while you're cramped in there, get into the back and pop off a little plastic cover to even access the hatch release. And that's not even including the possibility of battery acid leaking into the interior (you should have a box, but battery acid causes rust and the fumes are highly toxic).
The coilovers on my mk5 gti were about $800 (in 2010) and have over 100k miles on them now and are still near perfect you don't have to spend much more for reliability just don't go for the absolute cheapest $200 no name special.
💯 with the BOV. I got a Cobb intake and Cobb LF BPV on my 2016 wrx. (Ets 4in fmic) And it sounds amazing. So loud. All the perks of a BOV, but completely functional and safe for the motor.
I have poly (might as well be solid mounts) on my daily and it’s honestly not crazy bad. At first the vibration was really rough but once you get used to it it’s not too bad 👍🏻
Great video, first time I have seen your channel, definitely will check out the rest of your videos. Can't have too many guys like you trying to help the newbs and steer them away from "im gonna be so cool" decisions. Back in my day it was fart cans and cut springs, lol.
i think this vid is more medium-high level parts if you know what i mean, think the next vid should be more common things like, dont put an intake or dont put a catless downpipe over a catted one, etc…(not saying to not do those mods just giving an example of more common mods)
Just subscribed. I have a 2022 Veloster N. I have put a few bolt ons onto it. AEM CAI FSC stepped core FMIC SXTH Element BOV SXTH Element Catch can SXTH Element rear motor mount (has bushings, wheel hop gone) Pierburg upgraded boost solenoid About to be putting on a couple more parts. HKS Spark plugs(economy hit 36 MPG in eco mode on freeway today) Big mouth ram intake ext MBRP cat back( no resonator) I was trying to get the car in shape to run an actual tune from LAP 3 eventually. I have seen no dip in performance, no audible BOV leaks. Cars gauge says full boost is being achieved and held under full engine load. This BOV uses the factory recirc valve gasket to seal it. Not at all likely that it will leak at the mating surface with what was made to seal the recirc valve against the pipe No codes either. All the parts I'm running were completely engineered for the car. SXTH Element CF intake is about to go on soon with the turbo inlet upgrade. Giving effort to make sure the tune will be supported properly first really. I really appreciate the video brother!
@@Smeedia Absolutely love it. Hyundai knocked it out of the park. The car was reimagined from top to bottom. Used to have a 1st gen Reflex. No lie. The N is leaps and bounds ahead. Designed and tuned by Albert Bierman who used to head BMWs M division. As far as bang for the buck. IT'S ALL HERE. LAP 3 some time ago did some considerable upgrades to one. 405 HP to the rubber on a dyno reliably. Quite capable vehicle. It really is.
@@Smeedia You won't be disappointed. Before even trying to put any type of Piggyback tune. An upgraded high pressure fuel pump will also be being added. Which is also recommended for FBO setups even without a tune. Car needs to keep enough pressure in the system to allow specific bolt ons to provide the best benefit. The air associated ones that is. The SXTH CAI and turbo inlet that is 3.75 in on the intake coupler side are gonna be lettin plenty more air in. Need to make sure she gets enough fuel to mix with it for certain.
Speaking of suspension components, I was looking at either the Blistein Type RA upgrade, or Ohlins coil overs, but I’ve been hearing amazing things about Fortune Auto 500s so now I have no idea what I want! Appreciate this video man, mines a daily so I’m trying to keep it as reliable and fun as possible…
Also wanted to say, you recommended the Titan 7 wheels to me, and I was comparing them to the BBS wheels, they’re actually lighter, and they look better, plus have the color I want for a fraction of the price! Think I’m gonna go with them soon so I appreciate the recommendation!
@@Craiggg12345 just out of curiosity, are the 500s more forgiving? Do the 500s preform as nicely as the Ohlins when giving them some beans? I like the price tag of the 500s a lot more than the Ohlins lol
Thankfully I've listened and haven't done almost all of these. Only 1 I have pushed is putting 255s on the stock wheels with a 20mm spacer. It's close but I'm getting a fender roll in a week. Love these fun videos keep em coming. 💪👍🤜
Hey man, I liked the video. I think something you could add, and im not going through all the comments and what not to see other suggestions, but my sti, I tried to do things that were just like.... weight reduction. I thought no tune needed, I could handle it etc. 2 piece rotors, carbon fiber driveshaft, and light weight flywheel. lots of rotating mass reductions, that you wouldn't think would mess anything up, but they added up. I had driven only manual for about 10 years at that point and when descriptions of clutches say about track use only, they mean it. I killed my car a few times breaking it in, pretty embarrassing. I wont lie, once I figured it out it was very quick, but it was hard to nail down constantly. I did snap motor mounts, and went solid, and I agree with what you said (tho i like the sound and feel) I would argue motor mounts on the list, before clutches and flywheels that are arguably more "upsold", should be added to your list at the very least.
As always loving your vids mate, all the best Marty from Melbourne Australia........keep up the great work mate these vids have helped me so much with my choices on my 2021 STI build.
@@Smeedia really well mate, i put a set of Vertini rims on and also had the guards rolled a tad, Gotitrex here in Melbourne will have the STI next month for a set of coilovers and the standard upgrades to go 400WHP, so im really looking forward to it, your vids have been the absolute best mate and i can't say thank you enough, keep up the great work mate all the best Marty
Im actually running solid mounts on my daily driver 05 Legacy GT. MSI solid engine mounts. Aluminati solid transmission mount. Currently running an agency power pitchstop with whiteline crossmember bushings. But i still feel the car isnt solid enough for my liking so i might throw in the aluminati solid pitchstop with the solid crossmember bushings. Personally the NVH does not bother me that much. (does occasionally on long drives) but for the majority of the time i can put up with it. But the feeling of solid mounts is unbeatable. You feel so connected to the car. I would recommend it for people who can put up with NVH!
So, here I am, juicing my morning wheatgrass, about to watch another excellent Tanner video about stuff I should not do to my car. I smile, confident in the knowledge that nothing on his list will pertain to me, as my stock AF 2015 STI - with the exception of a Mishimoto air intake- sits happily in my garage. I just had the 105,000 mile service done to the car and added 2 items I didn't think would affect my car at all; a COBB pitch mount brace and a lightened pulley. Tanner gets to #2 on his list and I start to laugh and then sigh...
Great video. Great final fantasy reference. I love how you brought up ots tunes. Ppl that stand by ots tunes I will never understand it. E-tunes are not super expensive. If you can't afford to E-tune your car then you probably shouldn't be modifying your car in my opinion.
I have “solid” mounts on my 280z quotations just because that’s how they are listed by silver project BUT they have a delrin or poly bushing separating both halves of the mount, and I have to say it’s the perfect amount granted that car is only ever driven hard as a weekend toy and the inherent balance of the straight six could be helping me on the vibration portion. But for a daily driven car I absolutely agree with you one hundred percent , if it was my daily I think that it’s be too much and a little annoying to drive a grocery getter with a 90s massage chair from planet fitness 😂
This is ironic coming from a WRX owner ( No hate intended, i love the boxer engine ) , the irony is whenever you mod a boxer and changing the airflow and such it has a chance to blow up, that's kind of what swayed me from getting a BRZ and going with a 10th gen civic si
Also: People who do all the air mods and ZERO fuel mods. Every wrx owner has an intake, bov, catless downpipe, stock fuel system and then wonder why their car blew up...
I kept my stock springs and added Koni yellows on my 13 WRX which gave enough drop for a four season car. Not easy finding springs still in production for my car.
I bought a ‘19 wrx cvt in October and just recently threw a Cobb stage 1 tune. I have a nameless muffler delete but other than that I plan on just tossing the Cobb Intake for the stage 1+ tune and leaving it be after I get an Invidia r400 for it
@@Smeedia now I want to be sure, in terms of reliability, the muffler delete shouldn’t affect the behavior of the car too much right? With the Cobb stage 1+ Intake and tune it shouldn’t be anything unpredictable. I get my oil changed every 3000-3500 miles depending on when I get the time. I do drive 100 miles a day in the car. Looking to add a liiiiiittle more power but keep it as a fun daily. Any recommendations other than the trans cooler (already looking at those)
@@Smeedia thanks man, love the vids btw. Funny to hear you point out faults I’ve had buddies do on their cars. Not even mentioning subies lol. They’re temperamental but really fun cars and of course…the rumble 🤤
05 wrx bone stock 1 owner car 166k miles wasn't abused too bad did leak down test all healthy I've done a full tune up on it ik I'm going to need an aos what would be a good mod list for a fun daily
13:30 OTS Maps are just temporal If plans are to reach certain hardware: full exhaust, bigger turbo, FMIC, Freektune, etc... these, at least in my case, were achieved 5 years after buying the car... I even planned the whole thing before buying the car. So I installed the Intake, then bigger TMIC (in my case), better recycling valve... and used the first OTS map (Stage 1), then added the rest and kept climbing... specially the new fuel pump. The plan was not to use the OST, but to keep going until I could get a real tune from professionals or go to a dyno Once I did it was happiness... slow, perhaps, but I am a woman and geez installing the exhaust and specially the DP was hell and I had to ask for help
Speed density fuel injection is awesome! In high school and university I was tuning OBD1 GM stuff that was mostly speed density. Atmospheric BOV is excellent on those. MAF sensors (to me) are just an annoyance. Hitting max grams/sec, swap in a bigger MAF or custom housing, try to tune that, blah, blah, blah. Just learn to tune your own speed density and never look back. Sure you have to retune with any VE improvement to the engine. But with affordable wideband O2 sensors, it's quite easy. Back in my GM days, almost no one had a WB O2 sensor so it could be a pain.
people screw up by trying to go full race car on their street car. i went with all group N bushings, engine, top hats, all suspension bushings. STi brand lowering springs on Tokico D spec struts.
I'll take quality springs and shocks over cheap Coilovers any day. I love how the Bilstein's with the Swift springs feel and drive.
Fantastic set up 🔥
Bilstein and Eibach for me. Subaru put Bilstein on the S209.
I'm running Swift springs on OE replacement KYBs and it's absolutely gorgeous, still handles like a beast but maintains much of the comfort of the stock suspension
That just goes with the saying, you get what you pay for. I don’t even trust wheels that are $200 a wheel, I’d feel like I’m driving on cardboard.
Same, I’m running bilstein b12’s with H&R springs. Ride quality is very close, maybe even better than stock, but feel way better in corners. Coil overs are nice if you’re tracking your car and need to be able to make adjustments for track conditions but usually overkill for daily drivers especially if you don’t know how to dial them in (which I don’t think most people do lol). Also, I used to run coil overs on my last car and during the winter the perch ring threads would get loaded up with salt and debris and became an absolute mess. Spring/shock set up is much easier to maintain imo
I'm so glad I found your channel when I started modding my wrx. Watching your setups and recommendations compared to using my friends advice ( he blew threw two motors in his sti) has helped me pick the right parts and is the reason why my car runs so good
Glaf to hear that the videos have helped and hopefully your buddy doesn't blow up anymore engines 😬
lmao like the character from simpsons "ha ha"
Your subuaru channel is like the ONLY good one out there because you actually talk succinctly and don't ramble and you're not yelling at us or acting like a total hoonigan. I'm really enjoying this content
Eyyyy thank you 🙏🤝
This is completely true. Before I had the money to get an Etune I was running Cobb catted dp with a k&n intake and the car ran horrible and had so many issues that I couldn't figure out but once i went and got the tune all of those problems went way and the car runs phenomenal now. Love the vids man.
Glad to hear things got cleaned up after the tune 🥳
Etune without an accessport or is that even possible I'm have a hard time finding an for with this one
This is well thought out and delivered in a good way. Getting your car tuned properly for any mod is HUGE!! You can do exhaust all day and not worry, but if you touch ANYTHING on the intake side you need a tune. I would add do not get an etune if you have replaced anything. I had an appointment at fathouse fab for a dyno tune before I replaced part one. Of course part one was $6k in parts and had my check engine light on all the way there, but the drive home was fabulous!
Excellent list and couldn’t agree more.
Might I add ‘track focused mods’? Many car enthusiasts don’t seem to understand that a car set up for the track, will be a very poor daily driver street car. Examples would be track brake pads (which are generally noisy and require heating up before braking properly), solid mounts and metal bushings (which you touched on already), brake bias controllers and semi-slick tires (if you see any rain during the year).
Ohhhh love this idea for a video! 🔥 totally agree, track built cars that are still street legal aren't always a good idea 😅
LOVE LOVE LOVE these discussion videos! Please do a DEEP DIVE video on suspension / handling upgrades. I have almost all of the Whiteline suspension parts + BC coils on my car, and addicted to the grip! I would love a video on levels of suspension upgrades, whether (and what kind of...) chassis bracing is worth it, and what is / is not worth the $ for suspension parts.
PS... I'm the white SF5 Forester you smashed on the last live stream! I promise to take better photo next time so you don't have to hum/haw about the smash lol
Downnnnn I can make that happen 🔥
Also jelly of that fozzy 🥵
Yes please do this!!! I am building a 14 wrx and don’t car much for any power over 300 whp but would love for a sweet video from you on suspension upgrades so I can tear up the canyons here in Utah!
Current set up:
JDM 4/2 pots with braided lines, and BMC brace (trying to source an STI BMC if you think it’s worthwhile)
BC Coilovers
Whiteline sway bars + endlinks (switching to GNP end links soon)
Roll centre kit + anti lift (caster) kit
STi carbon Front / WL rear strut tower bars
She’s a daily so open to suggestion on keeping stock bushing, or which to replace.
Also looking for advice on whether (or WHEN) lower control arms / trailing arms are worth the expense.
I have a set of STI aluminum control arms ready to install but want to finalize my suspension set up because that will be alignment # 3 since I keep upgrading the suspension set up :)
Working on a 2.5L RS-Ti street + track weapon build next, so I’d love to hear recommendation on daily v track day suspension upgrades.
Fozzy bear (my SF5) is a 2000 JDM Forester St/B. OEM+ theme inside and out. Apart from the turbo back and suspension, all OEM+
STI Type MII interior (full black/on/black), V1 STI front seats, V9 STi wheel, STI TMIC, gold BBS wheels (summer), forged pro drive wheels (winter). Just missing the SF5 STI rear seats and e-brake handle to finish the STI interior.
OEM drivetrain since I cannot open source tune the OEM ECU… so big sad, and hence the RS build next
Subscriber PHIL from the Okanagan BC!
you have the front and rear white line sway bars and end links? I have them on my list and you seem to love them haha
Spent $900 on D2 coils for my BMW they are stiff, however, I’ve had them on for over 3 years and had no issues. They are middle of the road comfort could be better but I’m pleased with how they have preformed
D2 is a great middle group company, buddy has him in his Evo X. Definitely not bad for the price 🔥
Gotta give a big shout out I order a hoodie for my wife for the first engine giveaway but it unfortunately arrived with a big burn from the printer. But not the point my wife messages and was immediately taken care of with a replacement on the way so if you're even the slightest worried about buying his merchandise just know he stands behind it and makes sure everyone is happy. Thank you tanner for helping her and it's awesome to see the channel and blubaru growing.
Anytime! New order is in and should be printed in the next few days 🥳
Finding wheels that clear my STi hatch front brembos without a spacer is a frigging mission
I feel this 😤
My car came stock with 16s which do not clear calipers on 13" rotors. My spare is rear only lol. If i get a front flat i have to swap it with a rear and put spare on the back. Guess i shouldve bought 5 rims...
its the fucking struggle
Lenso spec e wheels fit perfect 👌👍
Agree completely with everything on the list. Especially the tuning, I ran ots stage 1 with a catback for 7-8 years and over 100,000km between two different wrx's, and never had a single issue. The most important thing is, I'll say it louder for the kids in the back, HAVING THE RIGHT PARTS FOR THE TUNE!!! Lol.
Side question because I keep getting distracted by it, but are you planning on sealing the headlight/inlet? I keep meaning to ask but always forget by the time I'm done watching the video
No I don't, I've got another headlight set on the way. So this one will just be used for racing or shows 🙏
Luther the Armadillo sounds like a type of improved explosive device.
Gotta watch out for Luther 😳
But Tanner, I put an intake, downpipe, and blowoff valve on my 16 sti on an OTS tune and it ran great! Then I cracked 2 pistons because I leaned out from my blowoff valve leaking and ended up costing me thousands. Now I'm in the process of doing it correctly so it never happens again. Learned the hard way but I learned!
Your not alone my friend 😭😭😭
Wouldnt that richen fuel? Not lean.. As the motor is losing air post maf. meaning it thinks its getting more air then it is thus adding more fuel. Least in boost. It leans the idle with air leaks as your losing vacuum.
@@ogfromutube9649 yeah, my car ran really rich in boost and really lean on idle and at slow speeds. I assume thats what caused my pistons to get hot and when i sent it with too much boost it caused cylinders 2 and 4 ringland failures and cylinder 4 to have a few small cracks around the top of the piston
@@rudecanadian9916 ouch... I ran my aem x series wideband into stock ecu. Since it has much faster response on short term fuel trims. One time maf was dirty i noticed afr was staying in 14s under wot so immediately let off. This is why wideband arer so important on higher then stock power levels and even stock. Modern volvo uses wideband from the factory. Also have my ecu tuned to flash engine light when knock/detonation is detected. Not super sensitivie tho. If more then 2 knocks deteced in a 1 second interval it triggers and i know to let off. Or if water meth isnt triggering. Also have low windshield washer fluid light on gauge wired into methanol resevoir. Stock ecu had a 3 bar map soldered in as well as stores 2 maps that i can switch on the fly. However i did not setup safeguards to auto switch maps on knock. The main difference between the 2 maps is ignition timing. Nor do i have flex fuel sensor for fuel quality. But we have no e85 here. So i use vp racing octanium with 93 super and am able to run 39* of timing advance. My ecu also had no way to control vvt cams. So we repurposed the rear o2 preheater wires to power the vvt solenoids at certain rpm/load points as the rear o2 is disabled and am running catless downpipe. Lots of stuff you can do to save your engine. Im running 23psi on a 50mm with stock internals just wont ramp in boost til over 3k to avoid bending rods. Also my 5cyl 20v is 8.5:1 cr. Headgaskets arent really a concern until much bigger turbos. The 2.3 with 83mm bore has thick cylinder walls so cracking is less prone then the 2.5 engines with 9.5:1 cr.
@@rudecanadian9916 same thing here, put a bov on when I was in highschool bc it “sounded cool” and don’t get me wrong, it sounded awesome, but I was losing SO MUCH AIR. It was dying at idle. It had some really nice pops and bangs as well, thankfully some other minor parts went out before any real damage was done and that scared me into going back to no bov. Could’ve been much worse. Not a very smart decision😂
Currently laying on the couch with a sore mouth and hating every second of it but the whole “Luther the Armadillo” thing was funny and made me feel better. I love the random tangents. Thanks for temporarily making me forget about the pain.
Glad I could be of assistance and hope ya feel better soon!
One thing to add is polyurethane shifter bushings. I bought the Kartboy short shifter kit with those bushings and now I’m getting noticeable NVH through my shifter 😭
Ive had my Raceland Primo coilovers on my 11 WRX for about two months now and they are phenominal so far, only oddity is shock noise on the fronts. Ride quality is pretty good and they're 15-way adjustable. Only thing left to see is longevity.
Just a pro tune made my car run more healthy and more powerful. And now I won't be installing the lightweight crank pulley my friend gave me.(I think ik why he gave it to me now) edit: smeedia is so cool, he hearted my comment like 6 months after he posted the video❤
You missed an unnecessarily strong clutch if lil Timmy is only at 300hp he doesn’t need a fucking track rated clutch that will just kill his daily driving experience
Ohhhh that right there is a really good one to add!
I would add a few more things. It drives me crazy when I see dangerous mods added just to look cool. Aftermarket steering wheel. I’d rather have an airbag. 6point roll cage on the street? Super dangerous with no helmet.
100% 🙏
everyone who has an aftermarket steering wheel understands that it doesn't come with an airbag and they don't care. the video is about mods that result it negatives that aren't very obvious before you install them. hindsight 2020
@@paolo1334 uh oh. Paolo just realized his momo won’t save his life in a crash and feels personally attacked. Stay safe!
@@nickormiston8411 well if you have an older GD chassis you get a Momo from the factory 👍
@@nickormiston8411 I don't have an aftermarket wheel lol. Stop being pretentious
100% agree with everything on this list I have one more huuuuge thing:
1.) If you decide to do a full "build" be brutally honest with yourself and set REALISTIC power goals. Nothing comes without a compromise. For example choose clearances that match how the car will be used. You may find yourself stuck with a noisy, piston slappy car that may be capable of big power, but it won't be a car you want to drive to work everyday.
100% on this! This gets over looked so often!
I will never understand the idea that a daily should have any of these mods. I figured it out on my own about 20 years ago. If I can afford to pump all this money into a car I love to increase it's performance, I can afford to have a really cheap decent car to daily. What this video doesn't even touch on is the environmental damage done to a car that driven in rain/snow. Moisture destroys the parts under a car. Dirt holds moisture against surfaces longer, and road salt/brine does that while also drastically accelerating corrosion.
Also all good facts to tackle in, especially in salty states during the winter time
mk7.5 TSi Golf here (1.8t)
OTS APR Stage1 tune
no engine hardware modifications required
BUT
I insalled a proper front mount from CTSTurbo, a turbosmart full recirculating diverter valve and a neuspeed intake
as well as a stage2 southbend clutch, a "turbo muffler delete"
+ second cat AND Muffler delete (kept OEM resonator)
with that setup I KNOW I am not at full potential and that a proper tune would make more power.... but that's the thing, I don't want more ! I just want my IATs to be low and my Diverter valve NOT to stick as the OEM does +.. a clutch is never a bad idea....
there is some flaws in your reasonning,and while I agre with most of the things you said... some of us mod our car to be faster.....but not...rocket ships !
Also depends on the ECU and car. Some ECUs are nit capable of making suitable adjustments without tunes. VW ECUs have fantastic self learning properties. Each application and car will vary though 🤙
Just traded up to a 2021 STI from a 2020 WRX Premium with stage 2+. I 💯% agree with tuning!!! Tune for everything and try to stick with the same manufacturer. I went Grimmspeed everything engine wise with a Tomei cat-back and BrenTune 93shell map and loved it. Daily driven. No issues. Keep up the great content bro!!!!
Glad to hear it has been treating you 🥳🥳
Local cat from Renton here! Another great vid bro! Ive never broke any of these mod guidelines myself, but one of your vids a while back talked me out of a 50/50 B.O.V. ...So I installed a cobb sf intake with their "airbox" and I hear all the bypass valve i need and am loving it on my pro-tuned cobb stage 2.5 2004 wrx wagon daily driver.
A mod I say to avoid is EBAY headlights... spec-D or anything like that. They "might" look cool in daytime but at night the light output and beam pattern are SHIT and unsafe at best
Ohhhhh EBAY headlights are always bad, they leak, have a terrible light pattern
I man'd up and got a retrofit from circuit demon. So badass
can confirm - the stock BPV with the cob intake sound incredible. it's not quite as loud of a "psh" noise but its still pretty sick. 10/10 would recommend
They sound great 🔥
Which intake exactly? Don’t they have 2? If I’m wrong then sorry haha
@@blakedavis1665 I have the Cobb SF intake + air box. I know they offer some overpriced carbon one or something but I doubt it sounds better. Looks nice though!
@@Telesko awesome thanks for the info. I just picked up my 2020 wrx and just have a Cobb catted turbo back exhaust and my accessport so it’s nice to hear good things about Cobbs intake
Solid info. A few other mods that can ruin your daily driver are cheap cast wheels that crack and fall apart (any size cheap rims will do this), cheap brakes and cheap brake rotors, cheap exhaust systems, and cheap ebay turbos. Every one of those listed I've seen end up bad.
Cheap ebay turbos are a big one
RIP to Luther the Armadillo
R.I.P that little dude 😭
100% agree with all of these. From personal experience as well. For example, the BOV. Mine was even a hybrid and had a massive leak, and I didn’t even know until I got a retune. On that, making sure you know what kind of tune you need in conjunction with the parts you had lol I was on a catless tune with that hybrid BOV leak for like a year lol
How well was the car running with the leaks?👀
"Cuz you want Greg and Jimmy over there in the yellow house to hear it" Lmao
Why again does Tanner not have *at LEAST* 200k subs and thousands of likes? That shit makes no sense to me....such VALUABLE information!
UA-cam is hiding us from the world 😤
@@Smeedia Looks like it! I'll keep doing my job by spreading your channel around!
So happy you keep bringing up the OTS tunes. 👏some👏people👏still👏 won't 👏listen.
People going to do what people going to do 🤷♂️
@@Smeedia this will always be true too 😅
I had put polyurethane mounts on my Mustang ages ago, and all I did was make the car shake like crazy, and it actually cracked my bellhousing. I can't imagine metal to metal.
It cracked it?! 😳
@@Smeedia yup, cracked about a 10 inch gash on the left hand side, it took about 4 months to do that though. Had to replace the bellhousing and ended up putting stock mounts back on the car. It was (and is) a shaky V8 though)
That intro was so great and relatable!!
😁😁😁
I swear everytime I debate on getting certain mods for my brz, you come out with videos like this one! love your content bro! 🙌
Well glad the videos have been helping my friend 🥳
The best video about car mods I have ever seen.
Eyyyy, thanks daniel 🙏
Missing 411 is where little Timmy is.
TIMMMMMMY
But why did the bit about NASIOC get me to literally laugh out loud 😂😂😂
And then “I can put whatever parts I want on my car” 😹😹 of course you need a tune
It resonates with all of us 😅😅😅
The lightweight crank is super dependent on the style of engine you have, like inline 4s will kill themselves with one, but an i6 will be perfectly fine. I remember reading somewhere that the older ejs dont even have a harmonic balancer because the boxer cycle of the engine is supposed to be self balancing
Definitely engine depending, would still use a damper over a light weight pulley personally
@@Smeedia for sure, the difference between an OEM pulley set and a lightweight/underdrive pulley set is minimal at best, and the $200 or so and time spent replacing them could easily be put into something like braided steel brake lines or lightweight flywheel that will drastically increase performance
Yeah, the idea is balance. I know that longer living and higher revving rotaries get the rotating assembly balanced with the flywheel and crank pulley to ensure minimum front to back forces. A lightweight flywheel will throw off crank balance just as much as a lightweight pulley.
What real benefit does light crank pulley provide that a light flywheel does not?? Lightening the mass of the rotating assembly..
@@foxunfocused idk im running a ttv 11lbs chrome moly single mass flywheel as it was pinned for a better heavier sachs 707 pressure plate. Little harder to rev match and harder on the calf muscle. But once used to it, it shaves about .2 off 1/4 mile.
And has less drop during shifts. Also impossible to slip even 4th gear 3500rpm launches.
Like Subaru volvo also has ton of rev hang but its supposed to.
got my 2013 PBP wrx wagon in nov last year finally did timing belt/throttlebody/radiator hoses, throttlebody hose/trans, rear diff flud/oil, filters, stock air filter/ and some stuff for suspension. feeling like a new car! can't wait to go cobb stage 2 with an ets cat back. ill be sure to get E-Tuned!
Yesssss going to sound good!
The wrong size wheels in regards to the offset was a great topic. Tire poke is extremely unsafe. Hit a a bad bump and bottom out on the fender and it's probable you are going to loose control and wreck.
Yep! I watched this happen to a Civic (because of course, right?) directly in front of me on I-95. Car looked awesome, rolling low and wide over some really meaty fit, but we came to an area where the road was being graded down, and POW, he was on the shoulder. Like, full, catastrophic blowout of his tire.
I love poke, but you've gotta do it right. The top of the tire should still be able to clear your fender. Usually, stretched tires and cambered wheels so that you can tuck the top inside the fender. And it goes hand-in-hand with the cheapo suspensions. FFS people, if you're gonna lower your car, or go with crazy setups, make sure you know where it will bottom out. Properly adjust your damping. People cut 2" out of the stock spring to slam their car over some funky fitment, and then wonder why the hell they keep shredding tires or chewing the fender.
Lightweight pulleys destroy engines.
Vibe analysis tech here. Harmonic dampers and bushings have a very important role in mitigating mechanical looseness cause by vibrations.
Harmonic dampers are especially important in preventing resonance caused by the excitation of a parts natural frequency.
A great example of failure is vibration tests on the shinook.
Really helpful video thanks tanner !
🥳🥳🥳
I replaced motor & trans mounts with solid aluminum ones for "improved feel" ☠️
Turned your car into a message bed? Lol
So far I just have the grimmspeed lightweight crank pully 😳 I didn't know . 😨😫
Only one out of all is not bad 🥳
This actually had useful information in it, and didn't default to common answers.
Though, I would like to add: Bigger turbos (not just slightly), FMIC (on WRX hatches in cold areas) and turbo blankets.
Subies already lack in low-end torque to begin with, so having a significantly bigger turbo will make it annoying in stop-and-go traffic. As for turbo blankets, they're a major fire hazard, as they're a perfect wick whenever oil gets on them. Lastly, front-mount intercoolers are fine on most Subies, except for daily driven hatches in cold weather. This is pretty niche, but it's also incredibly annoying to deal with. To install a FMIC, you need to relocate your battery into the hatch. Except, there's no mechanical backup for the hatch, so if your battery ever drains, you're nearly screwed. You have to climb through the interior (between the front seats if the rears are locked), manage to fold down the seats while you're cramped in there, get into the back and pop off a little plastic cover to even access the hatch release. And that's not even including the possibility of battery acid leaking into the interior (you should have a box, but battery acid causes rust and the fumes are highly toxic).
Thanks for filming and making this. Loved the intro. 😁
Anytime 🥳🥳
I’m one at fault for the out the atmosphere blow off valve and regret it later. Just to sound good isn’t going to beat engineering ingenuity.
The coilovers on my mk5 gti were about $800 (in 2010) and have over 100k miles on them now and are still near perfect you don't have to spend much more for reliability just don't go for the absolute cheapest $200 no name special.
Facts 🔥
I had good luck with KYB coilovers on my old 05 STi. In 2012 they were around $800-$900.
💯 with the BOV.
I got a Cobb intake and Cobb LF BPV on my 2016 wrx. (Ets 4in fmic)
And it sounds amazing. So loud. All the perks of a BOV, but completely functional and safe for the motor.
Yessssss 🔥🔥🔥
I have poly (might as well be solid mounts) on my daily and it’s honestly not crazy bad. At first the vibration was really rough but once you get used to it it’s not too bad 👍🏻
The only benefit to an aftermarket harmonic balancer is a dedicated drag racing build or you need more ribs for a supercharger
Great video, first time I have seen your channel, definitely will check out the rest of your videos. Can't have too many guys like you trying to help the newbs and steer them away from "im gonna be so cool" decisions. Back in my day it was fart cans and cut springs, lol.
Lol I've been down that path 😅 figured I'd try and help people avoid some of the mistakes if possible 😅
NO CRACKLE TUNES
Me locking out of work at planet fitness and hearing the planet fitness reference was the funniest thing ever
😅😅😅
The empty photo bucket links…I’m dead. Story of my life
They get us all 😤
Aftermarket alarms usually end in no start problems down the road.
That always sounds like a fun time 😅
Dude this intro is so accurate!!! Especially with NASIOC lol.
That photo bucket image is burned into my mind now
i think this vid is more medium-high level parts if you know what i mean, think the next vid should be more common things like, dont put an intake or dont put a catless downpipe over a catted one, etc…(not saying to not do those mods just giving an example of more common mods)
Just subscribed.
I have a 2022 Veloster N.
I have put a few bolt ons onto it.
AEM CAI
FSC stepped core FMIC
SXTH Element BOV
SXTH Element Catch can
SXTH Element rear motor mount (has bushings, wheel hop gone)
Pierburg upgraded boost solenoid
About to be putting on a couple more parts.
HKS Spark plugs(economy hit 36 MPG in eco mode on freeway today)
Big mouth ram intake ext
MBRP cat back( no resonator)
I was trying to get the car in shape to run an actual tune from LAP 3 eventually.
I have seen no dip in performance, no audible BOV leaks. Cars gauge says full boost is being achieved and held under full engine load.
This BOV uses the factory recirc valve gasket to seal it.
Not at all likely that it will leak at the mating surface with what was made to seal the recirc valve against the pipe
No codes either.
All the parts I'm running were completely engineered for the car.
SXTH Element CF intake is about to go on soon with the turbo inlet upgrade.
Giving effort to make sure the tune will be supported properly first really.
I really appreciate the video brother!
How are you liking the N? We've been looking into them a bit 👀🔥
@@Smeedia
Absolutely love it.
Hyundai knocked it out of the park. The car was reimagined from top to bottom.
Used to have a 1st gen Reflex.
No lie. The N is leaps and bounds ahead. Designed and tuned by Albert Bierman who used to head BMWs M division. As far as bang for the buck. IT'S ALL HERE.
LAP 3 some time ago did some considerable upgrades to one. 405 HP to the rubber on a dyno reliably. Quite capable vehicle. It really is.
Definitely going to have to go test drive one here soon then, have out GTI we've been playing around the idea with swapping it for something else
@@Smeedia
You won't be disappointed.
Before even trying to put any type of Piggyback tune. An upgraded high pressure fuel pump will also be being added. Which is also recommended for FBO setups even without a tune. Car needs to keep enough pressure in the system to allow specific bolt ons to provide the best benefit.
The air associated ones that is.
The SXTH CAI and turbo inlet that is 3.75 in on the intake coupler side are gonna be lettin plenty more air in. Need to make sure she gets enough fuel to mix with it for certain.
@@Smeedia
If you wanna take a look at what she is doin.
Here's a short gopro clip.
ua-cam.com/video/1FQS-0EiUHw/v-deo.html
Speaking of suspension components, I was looking at either the Blistein Type RA upgrade, or Ohlins coil overs, but I’ve been hearing amazing things about Fortune Auto 500s so now I have no idea what I want! Appreciate this video man, mines a daily so I’m trying to keep it as reliable and fun as possible…
Also wanted to say, you recommended the Titan 7 wheels to me, and I was comparing them to the BBS wheels, they’re actually lighter, and they look better, plus have the color I want for a fraction of the price! Think I’m gonna go with them soon so I appreciate the recommendation!
Glaf to hear you like the titans! What's your budget for suspension? 🤔
I have Ohlins on my STI and FA 500 on my girlfriends WRX and I like the FAs more.
@@Craiggg12345 just out of curiosity, are the 500s more forgiving? Do the 500s preform as nicely as the Ohlins when giving them some beans? I like the price tag of the 500s a lot more than the Ohlins lol
@@Smeedia the Ohlins were about 2500? So somewhere in that ballpark (maximum)
Basically don't cheap out, and tune after
Yessir 🔥
I had 275 rears on stock. Decided to put 305s just for more grip. Only thing is if I go bigger to 315 maybe 325 I would need wide body.
AND THE CRANK PULLEY...... MY DUDEEEEE
😅😅😅
Thankfully I've listened and haven't done almost all of these. Only 1 I have pushed is putting 255s on the stock wheels with a 20mm spacer. It's close but I'm getting a fender roll in a week. Love these fun videos keep em coming. 💪👍🤜
I don't think that's pushing it too much 🔥
@@Smeedia they look good I'll throw the pics up again in discord. 🤙
Gonna send this to so many people
🥳🥳🥳
Intro was gold. Vid helpful as always!
Lol thank you my man 🥳
Hey man, I liked the video. I think something you could add, and im not going through all the comments and what not to see other suggestions, but my sti, I tried to do things that were just like.... weight reduction. I thought no tune needed, I could handle it etc. 2 piece rotors, carbon fiber driveshaft, and light weight flywheel. lots of rotating mass reductions, that you wouldn't think would mess anything up, but they added up. I had driven only manual for about 10 years at that point and when descriptions of clutches say about track use only, they mean it. I killed my car a few times breaking it in, pretty embarrassing. I wont lie, once I figured it out it was very quick, but it was hard to nail down constantly. I did snap motor mounts, and went solid, and I agree with what you said (tho i like the sound and feel) I would argue motor mounts on the list, before clutches and flywheels that are arguably more "upsold", should be added to your list at the very least.
That intro I swear has resonated with all of us at some point haha
That image if the bucket is burned into my mind now 😤
Great video. Everyone needs to watch this lol. Also I ordered my turbo frog hoodie today can't wait for it to come.
Tried to mix this list up from every other one I've seen 🔥
As always loving your vids mate, all the best Marty from Melbourne Australia........keep up the great work mate these vids have helped me so much with my choices on my 2021 STI build.
Glad to hear the videos have helped 🔥 how's the STI Been treating you?
@@Smeedia really well mate, i put a set of Vertini rims on and also had the guards rolled a tad, Gotitrex here in Melbourne will have the STI next month for a set of coilovers and the standard upgrades to go 400WHP, so im really looking forward to it, your vids have been the absolute best mate and i can't say thank you enough, keep up the great work mate all the best Marty
Im actually running solid mounts on my daily driver 05 Legacy GT. MSI solid engine mounts. Aluminati solid transmission mount. Currently running an agency power pitchstop with whiteline crossmember bushings. But i still feel the car isnt solid enough for my liking so i might throw in the aluminati solid pitchstop with the solid crossmember bushings. Personally the NVH does not bother me that much. (does occasionally on long drives) but for the majority of the time i can put up with it. But the feeling of solid mounts is unbeatable. You feel so connected to the car. I would recommend it for people who can put up with NVH!
Definitely solid mods if your someone who doesn't mind all the NVH 🔥
I just bought the kw v1 coilovers, car feels amazing. Guys you get what you pay for. Spend the extra money it will go a long way.
So, here I am, juicing my morning wheatgrass, about to watch another excellent Tanner video about stuff I should not do to my car. I smile, confident in the knowledge that nothing on his list will pertain to me, as my stock AF 2015 STI - with the exception of a Mishimoto air intake- sits happily in my garage. I just had the 105,000 mile service done to the car and added 2 items I didn't think would affect my car at all; a COBB pitch mount brace and a lightened pulley. Tanner gets to #2 on his list and I start to laugh and then sigh...
Lol but how was the wheat grass 👀🔥
@@Smeedia it's an acquired taste. :)
Great video. Great final fantasy reference. I love how you brought up ots tunes. Ppl that stand by ots tunes I will never understand it. E-tunes are not super expensive. If you can't afford to E-tune your car then you probably shouldn't be modifying your car in my opinion.
E tunes now adays are pretty affordable 🔥
I have “solid” mounts on my 280z quotations just because that’s how they are listed by silver project BUT they have a delrin or poly bushing separating both halves of the mount, and I have to say it’s the perfect amount granted that car is only ever driven hard as a weekend toy and the inherent balance of the straight six could be helping me on the vibration portion. But for a daily driven car I absolutely agree with you one hundred percent , if it was my daily I think that it’s be too much and a little annoying to drive a grocery getter with a 90s massage chair from planet fitness 😂
Ohhhh L28? 👀🔥
@@Smeedia indeed sir all stock power train which is why I had mentioned before my wiring harness is shorting out on me and junk 😂
thanks for the BOV segment in this video! answered my question i asked you on tiktok
Eyyyy glad It helped 🔥💪
Omg.. you nailed it on lightweight crank pulleys... I fight with so many car kid nubs and thier shit always blows up down the road.
Definitely hit or miss on engines, but 10/10 od always suggest a good damper over a lightweight pulley any day of the week
3:25 The word is absorption! lol love your vids!
Making new words every day 😅🔥
Steve definitely understood the mission lol, gotta love it
Lol someone stole his cat 😅😅😅
This is ironic coming from a WRX owner ( No hate intended, i love the boxer engine ) , the irony is whenever you mod a boxer and changing the airflow and such it has a chance to blow up, that's kind of what swayed me from getting a BRZ and going with a 10th gen civic si
Brzs are way more tolerable, OE turbo models are picky AF 😅
Also: People who do all the air mods and ZERO fuel mods. Every wrx owner has an intake, bov, catless downpipe, stock fuel system and then wonder why their car blew up...
Me watching this after getting a drop in air filter, ok we’re good.
🔥🔥🔥
Replace NVH with NPH and it makes the video more about Neal Patrick Harris lol
I'm about it lmao
@@Smeedia same lol
Luther the armadillo had me dying laughing
His poor soul 💔
I like watching your discussion videos cuz I have a sti and I wanna see what is good or bad to put on your car great video! thumbs up for this video.
🥳🥳🥳 this one's for pretty much any car but all applicable to subarus 🔥
Intro was awesome!
Thank you 🥳
everyone should defiantly pay attention to this. great info👍
🙏🙏🙏
The damn photobucket images 😭
They're burned into my mind 😭
Can you do the maintenance intervals again but this time for running e85? And having a built block?
I can make that happen 🔥
@@Smeedia you da best
I kept my stock springs and added Koni yellows on my 13 WRX which gave enough drop for a four season car. Not easy finding springs still in production for my car.
RCE yellows are another solid one 🔥
I bought a ‘19 wrx cvt in October and just recently threw a Cobb stage 1 tune. I have a nameless muffler delete but other than that I plan on just tossing the Cobb Intake for the stage 1+ tune and leaving it be after I get an Invidia r400 for it
Not a bad set up 🔥😁
@@Smeedia now I want to be sure, in terms of reliability, the muffler delete shouldn’t affect the behavior of the car too much right? With the Cobb stage 1+ Intake and tune it shouldn’t be anything unpredictable. I get my oil changed every 3000-3500 miles depending on when I get the time. I do drive 100 miles a day in the car. Looking to add a liiiiiittle more power but keep it as a fun daily. Any recommendations other than the trans cooler (already looking at those)
Just trying to mod it a bit but not too much to where I start having issues while running the car
No, a muffler delete will have no impact on it 🙏 sounds like you've already got it sorted. Just the basics for reliability like an AOS and your set
@@Smeedia thanks man, love the vids btw. Funny to hear you point out faults I’ve had buddies do on their cars. Not even mentioning subies lol. They’re temperamental but really fun cars and of course…the rumble 🤤
The beginning of this damn video is SOOOOOOO ACCURATE to the damn Subaru life 😂😂😂😂😂
The image of the photo bucket is burned into my mind now
05 wrx bone stock 1 owner car 166k miles wasn't abused too bad did leak down test all healthy I've done a full tune up on it ik I'm going to need an aos what would be a good mod list for a fun daily
There was an old tercel site that had every compatible part from the 1.5 N/A with the 1.3T
That site is now gone, with all the knowledge
They're all disappearing now 😪
That opening got me hahaha
Spicing things up 😅
Remember basic land nav? That’s some shit I could hear the land nav instructors saying as the “attention getter” haha
@@Smeedia exactly!!!!! Haha
My favorite one is running cattless with out an EWG. If you can even get a tuner to do this, its a ticking time bomb.
Yesss, especially during WOT Pulls 😬
Thanks for the tip to look for the map notes
Anytime 🥳
13:30 OTS Maps are just temporal
If plans are to reach certain hardware: full exhaust, bigger turbo, FMIC, Freektune, etc... these, at least in my case, were achieved 5 years after buying the car... I even planned the whole thing before buying the car.
So I installed the Intake, then bigger TMIC (in my case), better recycling valve... and used the first OTS map (Stage 1), then added the rest and kept climbing... specially the new fuel pump.
The plan was not to use the OST, but to keep going until I could get a real tune from professionals or go to a dyno
Once I did it was happiness... slow, perhaps, but I am a woman and geez installing the exhaust and specially the DP was hell and I had to ask for help
Speed density fuel injection is awesome! In high school and university I was tuning OBD1 GM stuff that was mostly speed density. Atmospheric BOV is excellent on those. MAF sensors (to me) are just an annoyance. Hitting max grams/sec, swap in a bigger MAF or custom housing, try to tune that, blah, blah, blah. Just learn to tune your own speed density and never look back. Sure you have to retune with any VE improvement to the engine. But with affordable wideband O2 sensors, it's quite easy. Back in my GM days, almost no one had a WB O2 sensor so it could be a pain.
Speed density is the way 🔥 once you understand how VE tables work they're not too bad
@@Smeedia Absolutely. Not to mention MAFs are fragile and often get dirty, causing issues. Just an unnecessary failure point.
people screw up by trying to go full race car on their street car. i went with all group N bushings, engine, top hats, all suspension bushings. STi brand lowering springs on Tokico D spec struts.
When you go full race car on a daily it completely ruins the car. Made that mistake with thr 05 STI. Fantastic car but as a daily I 200% killed it