I'm running Swift springs on OE replacement KYBs and it's absolutely gorgeous, still handles like a beast but maintains much of the comfort of the stock suspension
Same, I’m running bilstein b12’s with H&R springs. Ride quality is very close, maybe even better than stock, but feel way better in corners. Coil overs are nice if you’re tracking your car and need to be able to make adjustments for track conditions but usually overkill for daily drivers especially if you don’t know how to dial them in (which I don’t think most people do lol). Also, I used to run coil overs on my last car and during the winter the perch ring threads would get loaded up with salt and debris and became an absolute mess. Spring/shock set up is much easier to maintain imo
Your subuaru channel is like the ONLY good one out there because you actually talk succinctly and don't ramble and you're not yelling at us or acting like a total hoonigan. I'm really enjoying this content
I'm so glad I found your channel when I started modding my wrx. Watching your setups and recommendations compared to using my friends advice ( he blew threw two motors in his sti) has helped me pick the right parts and is the reason why my car runs so good
Excellent list and couldn’t agree more. Might I add ‘track focused mods’? Many car enthusiasts don’t seem to understand that a car set up for the track, will be a very poor daily driver street car. Examples would be track brake pads (which are generally noisy and require heating up before braking properly), solid mounts and metal bushings (which you touched on already), brake bias controllers and semi-slick tires (if you see any rain during the year).
This is completely true. Before I had the money to get an Etune I was running Cobb catted dp with a k&n intake and the car ran horrible and had so many issues that I couldn't figure out but once i went and got the tune all of those problems went way and the car runs phenomenal now. Love the vids man.
This is well thought out and delivered in a good way. Getting your car tuned properly for any mod is HUGE!! You can do exhaust all day and not worry, but if you touch ANYTHING on the intake side you need a tune. I would add do not get an etune if you have replaced anything. I had an appointment at fathouse fab for a dyno tune before I replaced part one. Of course part one was $6k in parts and had my check engine light on all the way there, but the drive home was fabulous!
Great list - I think another important thing to note about OTS maps and why I ALWAYS recommend a Pro tune or at the very least an E Tune is that not only are OTS maps a generic tune for the specific parts they are meant for (like Cobb) but every environment is different. An OTS map in a place way above sea level won’t perform the same as in a place below sea level. But a pro tune done in both of those places respectively will be fine tuned for those conditions
Spent $900 on D2 coils for my BMW they are stiff, however, I’ve had them on for over 3 years and had no issues. They are middle of the road comfort could be better but I’m pleased with how they have preformed
Agree completely with everything on the list. Especially the tuning, I ran ots stage 1 with a catback for 7-8 years and over 100,000km between two different wrx's, and never had a single issue. The most important thing is, I'll say it louder for the kids in the back, HAVING THE RIGHT PARTS FOR THE TUNE!!! Lol. Side question because I keep getting distracted by it, but are you planning on sealing the headlight/inlet? I keep meaning to ask but always forget by the time I'm done watching the video
But Tanner, I put an intake, downpipe, and blowoff valve on my 16 sti on an OTS tune and it ran great! Then I cracked 2 pistons because I leaned out from my blowoff valve leaking and ended up costing me thousands. Now I'm in the process of doing it correctly so it never happens again. Learned the hard way but I learned!
Wouldnt that richen fuel? Not lean.. As the motor is losing air post maf. meaning it thinks its getting more air then it is thus adding more fuel. Least in boost. It leans the idle with air leaks as your losing vacuum.
@@ogfromutube9649 yeah, my car ran really rich in boost and really lean on idle and at slow speeds. I assume thats what caused my pistons to get hot and when i sent it with too much boost it caused cylinders 2 and 4 ringland failures and cylinder 4 to have a few small cracks around the top of the piston
@@rudecanadian9916 ouch... I ran my aem x series wideband into stock ecu. Since it has much faster response on short term fuel trims. One time maf was dirty i noticed afr was staying in 14s under wot so immediately let off. This is why wideband arer so important on higher then stock power levels and even stock. Modern volvo uses wideband from the factory. Also have my ecu tuned to flash engine light when knock/detonation is detected. Not super sensitivie tho. If more then 2 knocks deteced in a 1 second interval it triggers and i know to let off. Or if water meth isnt triggering. Also have low windshield washer fluid light on gauge wired into methanol resevoir. Stock ecu had a 3 bar map soldered in as well as stores 2 maps that i can switch on the fly. However i did not setup safeguards to auto switch maps on knock. The main difference between the 2 maps is ignition timing. Nor do i have flex fuel sensor for fuel quality. But we have no e85 here. So i use vp racing octanium with 93 super and am able to run 39* of timing advance. My ecu also had no way to control vvt cams. So we repurposed the rear o2 preheater wires to power the vvt solenoids at certain rpm/load points as the rear o2 is disabled and am running catless downpipe. Lots of stuff you can do to save your engine. Im running 23psi on a 50mm with stock internals just wont ramp in boost til over 3k to avoid bending rods. Also my 5cyl 20v is 8.5:1 cr. Headgaskets arent really a concern until much bigger turbos. The 2.3 with 83mm bore has thick cylinder walls so cracking is less prone then the 2.5 engines with 9.5:1 cr.
@@rudecanadian9916 same thing here, put a bov on when I was in highschool bc it “sounded cool” and don’t get me wrong, it sounded awesome, but I was losing SO MUCH AIR. It was dying at idle. It had some really nice pops and bangs as well, thankfully some other minor parts went out before any real damage was done and that scared me into going back to no bov. Could’ve been much worse. Not a very smart decision😂
Ive had my Raceland Primo coilovers on my 11 WRX for about two months now and they are phenominal so far, only oddity is shock noise on the fronts. Ride quality is pretty good and they're 15-way adjustable. Only thing left to see is longevity.
LOVE LOVE LOVE these discussion videos! Please do a DEEP DIVE video on suspension / handling upgrades. I have almost all of the Whiteline suspension parts + BC coils on my car, and addicted to the grip! I would love a video on levels of suspension upgrades, whether (and what kind of...) chassis bracing is worth it, and what is / is not worth the $ for suspension parts. PS... I'm the white SF5 Forester you smashed on the last live stream! I promise to take better photo next time so you don't have to hum/haw about the smash lol
Yes please do this!!! I am building a 14 wrx and don’t car much for any power over 300 whp but would love for a sweet video from you on suspension upgrades so I can tear up the canyons here in Utah!
Current set up: JDM 4/2 pots with braided lines, and BMC brace (trying to source an STI BMC if you think it’s worthwhile) BC Coilovers Whiteline sway bars + endlinks (switching to GNP end links soon) Roll centre kit + anti lift (caster) kit STi carbon Front / WL rear strut tower bars She’s a daily so open to suggestion on keeping stock bushing, or which to replace. Also looking for advice on whether (or WHEN) lower control arms / trailing arms are worth the expense. I have a set of STI aluminum control arms ready to install but want to finalize my suspension set up because that will be alignment # 3 since I keep upgrading the suspension set up :) Working on a 2.5L RS-Ti street + track weapon build next, so I’d love to hear recommendation on daily v track day suspension upgrades. Fozzy bear (my SF5) is a 2000 JDM Forester St/B. OEM+ theme inside and out. Apart from the turbo back and suspension, all OEM+ STI Type MII interior (full black/on/black), V1 STI front seats, V9 STi wheel, STI TMIC, gold BBS wheels (summer), forged pro drive wheels (winter). Just missing the SF5 STI rear seats and e-brake handle to finish the STI interior. OEM drivetrain since I cannot open source tune the OEM ECU… so big sad, and hence the RS build next
One thing to add is polyurethane shifter bushings. I bought the Kartboy short shifter kit with those bushings and now I’m getting noticeable NVH through my shifter 😭
I would add a few more things. It drives me crazy when I see dangerous mods added just to look cool. Aftermarket steering wheel. I’d rather have an airbag. 6point roll cage on the street? Super dangerous with no helmet.
everyone who has an aftermarket steering wheel understands that it doesn't come with an airbag and they don't care. the video is about mods that result it negatives that aren't very obvious before you install them. hindsight 2020
Solid info. A few other mods that can ruin your daily driver are cheap cast wheels that crack and fall apart (any size cheap rims will do this), cheap brakes and cheap brake rotors, cheap exhaust systems, and cheap ebay turbos. Every one of those listed I've seen end up bad.
Gotta give a big shout out I order a hoodie for my wife for the first engine giveaway but it unfortunately arrived with a big burn from the printer. But not the point my wife messages and was immediately taken care of with a replacement on the way so if you're even the slightest worried about buying his merchandise just know he stands behind it and makes sure everyone is happy. Thank you tanner for helping her and it's awesome to see the channel and blubaru growing.
Just traded up to a 2021 STI from a 2020 WRX Premium with stage 2+. I 💯% agree with tuning!!! Tune for everything and try to stick with the same manufacturer. I went Grimmspeed everything engine wise with a Tomei cat-back and BrenTune 93shell map and loved it. Daily driven. No issues. Keep up the great content bro!!!!
Totally agree on the bov!! I put upgraded diverter valve with a stainless tube inlet and open filter.. Still sounds amazing and no unaccounted for unmetered air.. The ecu assumes that air is being recirced on throttle lift. Which is how you get rich spikes on shifts. And more drop in boost during shifts as well. Mines custom tuned and even my tuner said DO NOT use a bov... Heavier spring and silicone diaphragm is all you need for higher then stock psi...
mk7.5 TSi Golf here (1.8t) OTS APR Stage1 tune no engine hardware modifications required BUT I insalled a proper front mount from CTSTurbo, a turbosmart full recirculating diverter valve and a neuspeed intake as well as a stage2 southbend clutch, a "turbo muffler delete" + second cat AND Muffler delete (kept OEM resonator) with that setup I KNOW I am not at full potential and that a proper tune would make more power.... but that's the thing, I don't want more ! I just want my IATs to be low and my Diverter valve NOT to stick as the OEM does +.. a clutch is never a bad idea.... there is some flaws in your reasonning,and while I agre with most of the things you said... some of us mod our car to be faster.....but not...rocket ships !
Also depends on the ECU and car. Some ECUs are nit capable of making suitable adjustments without tunes. VW ECUs have fantastic self learning properties. Each application and car will vary though 🤙
100% agree with everything on this list I have one more huuuuge thing: 1.) If you decide to do a full "build" be brutally honest with yourself and set REALISTIC power goals. Nothing comes without a compromise. For example choose clearances that match how the car will be used. You may find yourself stuck with a noisy, piston slappy car that may be capable of big power, but it won't be a car you want to drive to work everyday.
The coilovers on my mk5 gti were about $800 (in 2010) and have over 100k miles on them now and are still near perfect you don't have to spend much more for reliability just don't go for the absolute cheapest $200 no name special.
Local cat from Renton here! Another great vid bro! Ive never broke any of these mod guidelines myself, but one of your vids a while back talked me out of a 50/50 B.O.V. ...So I installed a cobb sf intake with their "airbox" and I hear all the bypass valve i need and am loving it on my pro-tuned cobb stage 2.5 2004 wrx wagon daily driver. A mod I say to avoid is EBAY headlights... spec-D or anything like that. They "might" look cool in daytime but at night the light output and beam pattern are SHIT and unsafe at best
as a 32 year old who joined NASIOC in 2006 when I bought my first car (97 Impreza L) and read literally every bit of info I possibly could between then and now going down that subaru obsession rabbit hole, I agree with every single point you made.
Great informative video! I'd like to make a suggestion, if you don't mind. When making a video involving a list, can you either put time stamps in the description, or have an indicator on the screen as to which number of the list you are on? For example, if I already know solid mounts are a bad idea on a daily, I'd like to skip ahead to the other items of the list but don't have any way of knowing where to skip to, so it's a guessing game as I skip 10 seconds ahead over and over until I hear you talk about something else, and I might miss something that I wanted to hear. Otherwise, really enjoyed the video!
100% agree with all of these. From personal experience as well. For example, the BOV. Mine was even a hybrid and had a massive leak, and I didn’t even know until I got a retune. On that, making sure you know what kind of tune you need in conjunction with the parts you had lol I was on a catless tune with that hybrid BOV leak for like a year lol
Man I know you’re crazy busy but I’m in the process of doing a rebuild with an OEM shortblock and would like to ask you a few questions. I do have the service manual. - Rocker arm sequence. 2015 wrx, they all fell when I first pulled the cam carrier. Labeled 1 and 2. Cannot find anything anywhere on them as far as a reference to what the numbers mean. Closest thing I believe I found was someone saying wear pattern is why they need to go back where they came off of. - LW Crank Pulley. You explained it in the video, however, I only ask I need to replace the OEM. OEM is $120 or so, same price as an aftermarket. Car is FBO on E60 401 whp. If oem is the way to go and it’s not worth explaining - I completely understand. - creating gaskets. Is there a way to verify or check if it’s sealed right aside from a start up? Or a method I can do at home? Thanks. Love the content.
The lightweight crank is super dependent on the style of engine you have, like inline 4s will kill themselves with one, but an i6 will be perfectly fine. I remember reading somewhere that the older ejs dont even have a harmonic balancer because the boxer cycle of the engine is supposed to be self balancing
@@Smeedia for sure, the difference between an OEM pulley set and a lightweight/underdrive pulley set is minimal at best, and the $200 or so and time spent replacing them could easily be put into something like braided steel brake lines or lightweight flywheel that will drastically increase performance
Yeah, the idea is balance. I know that longer living and higher revving rotaries get the rotating assembly balanced with the flywheel and crank pulley to ensure minimum front to back forces. A lightweight flywheel will throw off crank balance just as much as a lightweight pulley.
@@foxunfocused idk im running a ttv 11lbs chrome moly single mass flywheel as it was pinned for a better heavier sachs 707 pressure plate. Little harder to rev match and harder on the calf muscle. But once used to it, it shaves about .2 off 1/4 mile. And has less drop during shifts. Also impossible to slip even 4th gear 3500rpm launches. Like Subaru volvo also has ton of rev hang but its supposed to.
This actually had useful information in it, and didn't default to common answers. Though, I would like to add: Bigger turbos (not just slightly), FMIC (on WRX hatches in cold areas) and turbo blankets. Subies already lack in low-end torque to begin with, so having a significantly bigger turbo will make it annoying in stop-and-go traffic. As for turbo blankets, they're a major fire hazard, as they're a perfect wick whenever oil gets on them. Lastly, front-mount intercoolers are fine on most Subies, except for daily driven hatches in cold weather. This is pretty niche, but it's also incredibly annoying to deal with. To install a FMIC, you need to relocate your battery into the hatch. Except, there's no mechanical backup for the hatch, so if your battery ever drains, you're nearly screwed. You have to climb through the interior (between the front seats if the rears are locked), manage to fold down the seats while you're cramped in there, get into the back and pop off a little plastic cover to even access the hatch release. And that's not even including the possibility of battery acid leaking into the interior (you should have a box, but battery acid causes rust and the fumes are highly toxic).
Im actually running solid mounts on my daily driver 05 Legacy GT. MSI solid engine mounts. Aluminati solid transmission mount. Currently running an agency power pitchstop with whiteline crossmember bushings. But i still feel the car isnt solid enough for my liking so i might throw in the aluminati solid pitchstop with the solid crossmember bushings. Personally the NVH does not bother me that much. (does occasionally on long drives) but for the majority of the time i can put up with it. But the feeling of solid mounts is unbeatable. You feel so connected to the car. I would recommend it for people who can put up with NVH!
Agree with everything. Solid mounts, eh, personal preference and I actually enjoy them. Didn’t mention hybrid bov/ bpv. They too are no bueno, especially open to atmosphere even a little bit, and tend to have a higher probability of leaks. STI I bought had one, I immediately put a factory one back on.
13:30 OTS Maps are just temporal If plans are to reach certain hardware: full exhaust, bigger turbo, FMIC, Freektune, etc... these, at least in my case, were achieved 5 years after buying the car... I even planned the whole thing before buying the car. So I installed the Intake, then bigger TMIC (in my case), better recycling valve... and used the first OTS map (Stage 1), then added the rest and kept climbing... specially the new fuel pump. The plan was not to use the OST, but to keep going until I could get a real tune from professionals or go to a dyno Once I did it was happiness... slow, perhaps, but I am a woman and geez installing the exhaust and specially the DP was hell and I had to ask for help
Lightweight pulleys destroy engines. Vibe analysis tech here. Harmonic dampers and bushings have a very important role in mitigating mechanical looseness cause by vibrations. Harmonic dampers are especially important in preventing resonance caused by the excitation of a parts natural frequency. A great example of failure is vibration tests on the shinook.
Speed density fuel injection is awesome! In high school and university I was tuning OBD1 GM stuff that was mostly speed density. Atmospheric BOV is excellent on those. MAF sensors (to me) are just an annoyance. Hitting max grams/sec, swap in a bigger MAF or custom housing, try to tune that, blah, blah, blah. Just learn to tune your own speed density and never look back. Sure you have to retune with any VE improvement to the engine. But with affordable wideband O2 sensors, it's quite easy. Back in my GM days, almost no one had a WB O2 sensor so it could be a pain.
Hey man, I liked the video. I think something you could add, and im not going through all the comments and what not to see other suggestions, but my sti, I tried to do things that were just like.... weight reduction. I thought no tune needed, I could handle it etc. 2 piece rotors, carbon fiber driveshaft, and light weight flywheel. lots of rotating mass reductions, that you wouldn't think would mess anything up, but they added up. I had driven only manual for about 10 years at that point and when descriptions of clutches say about track use only, they mean it. I killed my car a few times breaking it in, pretty embarrassing. I wont lie, once I figured it out it was very quick, but it was hard to nail down constantly. I did snap motor mounts, and went solid, and I agree with what you said (tho i like the sound and feel) I would argue motor mounts on the list, before clutches and flywheels that are arguably more "upsold", should be added to your list at the very least.
people screw up by trying to go full race car on their street car. i went with all group N bushings, engine, top hats, all suspension bushings. STi brand lowering springs on Tokico D spec struts.
My car came stock with 16s which do not clear calipers on 13" rotors. My spare is rear only lol. If i get a front flat i have to swap it with a rear and put spare on the back. Guess i shouldve bought 5 rims...
Currently laying on the couch with a sore mouth and hating every second of it but the whole “Luther the Armadillo” thing was funny and made me feel better. I love the random tangents. Thanks for temporarily making me forget about the pain.
I had put polyurethane mounts on my Mustang ages ago, and all I did was make the car shake like crazy, and it actually cracked my bellhousing. I can't imagine metal to metal.
@@Smeedia yup, cracked about a 10 inch gash on the left hand side, it took about 4 months to do that though. Had to replace the bellhousing and ended up putting stock mounts back on the car. It was (and is) a shaky V8 though)
100% on the OTS tune thing. Im one of those that doesnt believe in OTS tunes at all, just because I have seen too many popped motors on them. Say what you will, paying 400 dollars for a pro tune is always better than paying 4000 for a new motor. On the note of swapping parts without tuning though, some parts ARE made to run with the factory tune and do so just fine. For instance I have a Roush Intake on my Focus ST and that and my exhaust are ALL I have done, both are designed by Borla and Roush to not mess with the way the engine runs and come with documentation that not only proves this, but Ford themselves partnered up with them to make these parts so they are warranty safe and are both 50 state CARB legal (for Cali owners out there reading). Now, my car is MAP based, so that probably played into the design process and reason these parts mesh so well with the stock tune, but if you are MAF based, yeah, you need to re-tune NO MATTER WHAT unless its like...a cat-back. Any time you change ANYTHING following after that MAF sensor, the car has NO IDEA what is going on, it thinks the stock parts are still there and will keep sending the same amount of fuel and timing. If you put a big-ass intake on there and start shoving a lot more air into the car, or a bigger intercooler and now the air is colder and more dense, guess what, you just made a lean condition, which, if left unchecked, makes things go BOOM, and I aint talking your snap crackle pop exhaust boom, i mean rod through the top of your hood boom.
can confirm - the stock BPV with the cob intake sound incredible. it's not quite as loud of a "psh" noise but its still pretty sick. 10/10 would recommend
@@blakedavis1665 I have the Cobb SF intake + air box. I know they offer some overpriced carbon one or something but I doubt it sounds better. Looks nice though!
@@Telesko awesome thanks for the info. I just picked up my 2020 wrx and just have a Cobb catted turbo back exhaust and my accessport so it’s nice to hear good things about Cobbs intake
The wrong size wheels in regards to the offset was a great topic. Tire poke is extremely unsafe. Hit a a bad bump and bottom out on the fender and it's probable you are going to loose control and wreck.
Yep! I watched this happen to a Civic (because of course, right?) directly in front of me on I-95. Car looked awesome, rolling low and wide over some really meaty fit, but we came to an area where the road was being graded down, and POW, he was on the shoulder. Like, full, catastrophic blowout of his tire. I love poke, but you've gotta do it right. The top of the tire should still be able to clear your fender. Usually, stretched tires and cambered wheels so that you can tuck the top inside the fender. And it goes hand-in-hand with the cheapo suspensions. FFS people, if you're gonna lower your car, or go with crazy setups, make sure you know where it will bottom out. Properly adjust your damping. People cut 2" out of the stock spring to slam their car over some funky fitment, and then wonder why the hell they keep shredding tires or chewing the fender.
I have poly (might as well be solid mounts) on my daily and it’s honestly not crazy bad. At first the vibration was really rough but once you get used to it it’s not too bad 👍🏻
I will never understand the idea that a daily should have any of these mods. I figured it out on my own about 20 years ago. If I can afford to pump all this money into a car I love to increase it's performance, I can afford to have a really cheap decent car to daily. What this video doesn't even touch on is the environmental damage done to a car that driven in rain/snow. Moisture destroys the parts under a car. Dirt holds moisture against surfaces longer, and road salt/brine does that while also drastically accelerating corrosion.
got my 2013 PBP wrx wagon in nov last year finally did timing belt/throttlebody/radiator hoses, throttlebody hose/trans, rear diff flud/oil, filters, stock air filter/ and some stuff for suspension. feeling like a new car! can't wait to go cobb stage 2 with an ets cat back. ill be sure to get E-Tuned!
💯 with the BOV. I got a Cobb intake and Cobb LF BPV on my 2016 wrx. (Ets 4in fmic) And it sounds amazing. So loud. All the perks of a BOV, but completely functional and safe for the motor.
Tuning n00b here. How long can you go without a pro/dyno tune once you've added bolt on mods to your car? For example, say you've get an intake, AOS, BPV and catted J pipe but can't get an appointment with your pro tuner for a week or more and there isn't an OTS map for your particular mix of parts. Should you wait to install until just before your tune date, or can you get buy for a while? Also, most dyno shops want everything to be as perfect as possible before you show up; if you've just built everything, how do you ensure it will pass their pre-run inspection?
Speaking of suspension components, I was looking at either the Blistein Type RA upgrade, or Ohlins coil overs, but I’ve been hearing amazing things about Fortune Auto 500s so now I have no idea what I want! Appreciate this video man, mines a daily so I’m trying to keep it as reliable and fun as possible…
Also wanted to say, you recommended the Titan 7 wheels to me, and I was comparing them to the BBS wheels, they’re actually lighter, and they look better, plus have the color I want for a fraction of the price! Think I’m gonna go with them soon so I appreciate the recommendation!
@@Craiggg12345 just out of curiosity, are the 500s more forgiving? Do the 500s preform as nicely as the Ohlins when giving them some beans? I like the price tag of the 500s a lot more than the Ohlins lol
05 wrx bone stock 1 owner car 166k miles wasn't abused too bad did leak down test all healthy I've done a full tune up on it ik I'm going to need an aos what would be a good mod list for a fun daily
I kept my stock springs and added Koni yellows on my 13 WRX which gave enough drop for a four season car. Not easy finding springs still in production for my car.
I had a crosstrek because I hike a lot and spend some time in the mountains. I trade it for a WRX and now I’m wondering if there is such thing as coil overs with air suspension so I can bring it up if I’m somewhere that I need more height?
Just a pro tune made my car run more healthy and more powerful. And now I won't be installing the lightweight crank pulley my friend gave me.(I think ik why he gave it to me now) edit: smeedia is so cool, he hearted my comment like 6 months after he posted the video❤
I can vouch for a few of those. I bought an 06 a bit ago and there was a atmospheric BOV installed. I of course wasn't easy on the car during the test drive and didn't keep it in 5th or 6th for long. As I was driving home after buying the car and ignoring the 8 owners reported on the Carfax, I noticed that it was trying to overheat. Long story short... One of the previous owners installed the BOV and decided to run their own vacuum lines. The had a leak one side of a T-fitting installed on the BOV that lead to no where within the passenger compartment and tried to stretch the smallest hose I have ever seen over the barb on the wastegate actuator solenoid. Which was also leaking vacuum and was not opening the wastegate. FULL BOOST on stock internals... Yay. They just about killed the piston rings and the car lasted about a year and a half after I reverted the car back to stock as much as possible.
@@Smeedia It ran for about a year and a half before the original clutch went out at about 130k miles. Then the rings in cylinder 4 went with cylinder 1 not too far behind. Unfortunately I don't have the tools or space to fix the engine and it was my only car. I traded it in for a 19 Impreza 2 months ago and Subaru gave me a bumper to bumper warranty until February 2026. We'll see what happens there, but in the mean time I got a guy sourcing me a JDM EJ207 and matching transmission in case I am not a fan of the next gen STIs
Solid do not do list. I especially agree with the use of a Fluidampr over lightweight pulley wheels. Secondary high revolution high rpm vibration can be deadly for an engine. Protune or Etune over OTS tune also to allow maximum choice in the bolt on build unless of course you stick faithfully to the OTS part recipe.
Thankfully I've listened and haven't done almost all of these. Only 1 I have pushed is putting 255s on the stock wheels with a 20mm spacer. It's close but I'm getting a fender roll in a week. Love these fun videos keep em coming. 💪👍🤜
Kind of a late question but ive seen a lot of debate regarding tuning for a fully recirculating bypass valve. If youre running bone stock on sti can you use it without a tune? I know blowoff is kind of pointless for a stock motor and you absolutely should tune but the only answer i seem to find on forums is "just keep the stock one bro" or i use a 50/50 or 60/40 and its fine.
As an ASE certified tech, who's been through all of this (and as an Evo X owner, which also uses a MAF sensor setup). On a stock setup, with a MAF setup, use a bypass valve (BPV), not a blow-off valve (BOV). Especially, if you don't have any supporting mods or tuning. I'm at 500 whp & still use a BPV (I'm not tuned for speed-density - i.e. no MAF sensor). You will not see any gains by tossing a BOV on a stock setup. As he mentioned in this video, installing a quality air-intake will amplify that "pffftt" blow-off sound that you're most likely looking for. Adding an upgraded BPV (Cobb), with an intake, will further enhance the sound.
Thoughts on shimmed or aftermarket diffs ? Got some , drifts insane but super super tight at low speeds . What’s your experience or thoughts on em ? I bought car off a really really reputable Subaru shop worker was basically built for the track but it’s a immaculate road car
Powerflex makes different durometer poly urethane mount bushings. Diff colors for diff stiffness. Even filled one using 3m window urethane before its about 20% stiffer then rubber.
I have “solid” mounts on my 280z quotations just because that’s how they are listed by silver project BUT they have a delrin or poly bushing separating both halves of the mount, and I have to say it’s the perfect amount granted that car is only ever driven hard as a weekend toy and the inherent balance of the straight six could be helping me on the vibration portion. But for a daily driven car I absolutely agree with you one hundred percent , if it was my daily I think that it’s be too much and a little annoying to drive a grocery getter with a 90s massage chair from planet fitness 😂
100% agree with a lot of your opinions, light weight crank pulleys are trash, not having a tune can ruin your day. The only ej I’ve ever seen run great using a vent to atmosphere bov was an ej20k. Every other ej I’ve seen with a vent to atmosphere bov has ran like trash. The other thing I think you may have missed on your list is the grimspeed aos systems that attach to the oil caps. Those are a complete waste of money and an easy way to fuck your car up. Keep up the good info though dude!
@@Smeedia yeah those aos systems are pure trash, perfect way to destroy something nice. You tune that eg33 yet? I actually just bought one for a future build! I may have some questions for you down the road haha
Wait, but I was so happy when you said in another vid that it's ok to get a light weight crank pulley for a daily car that hasn't been heavily modded? And now I want one lol. Little co fused though. I would love If you made a vid specifically to detail a few bang for buch things you can do to bump up your daily driver's power. I have a long highway commute with my 13 Impreza sport and was surpirsed by the difference when I got a k&n drop in filter and removed the pzev filter. I had to reset the ecu for it. I don't need a turbo, just want to know what's good. Would a straight thru muffler, CAI, highflow cat, headers, and maybe fuel inctors and throttle body make a nice little difference? And which of those would make the most difference? Thanks! New fan
I put Swift springs on my bugeye wagon and the ride is great but it looks way too high. Most people assume it’s stock ride height. I got the Swift springs because I always thought BC coilovers were bad quality but I guess that’s not true. Deciding if I should just switch to BC Racing and deal with the harsher ride. I can’t justify putting air ride on that old car at this point.
Great video, first time I have seen your channel, definitely will check out the rest of your videos. Can't have too many guys like you trying to help the newbs and steer them away from "im gonna be so cool" decisions. Back in my day it was fart cans and cut springs, lol.
I have never owned a subaru but everything on this list is 100% true. I feel like when you’re new to cars, there’s so many do’s and don’ts that you don’t know who to listen to. Hopefully, they will heed your advice because these lessons that can take you so much time and money to learn.
I have a GFB blow off valve on my 05xt mainly because the previous owner blew the old engine in it up by putting too much boost through a stock engine, my mod list is: GFB blow off valve BC racing coil overs turbo back exhaust (xforce 3") 5x100 17x8 wheels rota grid r engine swap of the same year as previous owner blew the engine sti bonnet scoop money is my main issue as i want to make my car look as nice as it can but it takes me about 6-12 months between mods but i love it too bits (bov is 40% atmosphere vent for very cool pshh noises)
Is there a way to send you a pic of my 17 sti. Rear camber seems to much just trying to figure out is this is normal. My 08 hatch sti did not have this issue. I’m getting some Cusco upper arms for rear to fix but I’m just curious there’s been no rear damage to the car except for my wife back into it one day.
Hey man, ive got a 2015 sti. Im new to tuning/performance...new to cars in general honestly because ive only really been into them since i got my car a year ago..... Anyway, thinking of getting the stage 1 package from cobb for my sti. Comes with the accessport and intake. Im wondering if youre able to give any insight to the ots tune. Is it safe to run if the intake is all i add to the car, or is it gonna make my car unreliable?
WRXs are only MAF tunable right? I’ve seen speed density kits for STIs, but last I looked nothing for FA20s. And agree with keeping the BPV. I bought the Turbosmart smartport BPV/BOV hybrid and tried venting to ATM and it would kill my car. Took the vent off and plugged it to be full BPV and still ran terrible but wouldn’t kill the car. Ended up putting the stock one back and and ran fine lol🤷🏻♂️
I bought a ‘19 wrx cvt in October and just recently threw a Cobb stage 1 tune. I have a nameless muffler delete but other than that I plan on just tossing the Cobb Intake for the stage 1+ tune and leaving it be after I get an Invidia r400 for it
@@Smeedia now I want to be sure, in terms of reliability, the muffler delete shouldn’t affect the behavior of the car too much right? With the Cobb stage 1+ Intake and tune it shouldn’t be anything unpredictable. I get my oil changed every 3000-3500 miles depending on when I get the time. I do drive 100 miles a day in the car. Looking to add a liiiiiittle more power but keep it as a fun daily. Any recommendations other than the trans cooler (already looking at those)
@@Smeedia thanks man, love the vids btw. Funny to hear you point out faults I’ve had buddies do on their cars. Not even mentioning subies lol. They’re temperamental but really fun cars and of course…the rumble 🤤
i think this vid is more medium-high level parts if you know what i mean, think the next vid should be more common things like, dont put an intake or dont put a catless downpipe over a catted one, etc…(not saying to not do those mods just giving an example of more common mods)
But why did the bit about NASIOC get me to literally laugh out loud 😂😂😂 And then “I can put whatever parts I want on my car” 😹😹 of course you need a tune
That's not true actually when you're talking about the fiesta ST regarding the OTS map. Ran the car from 55k to 132k on OTS, BUT*** like he said you must ONLY run the parts on Cobb's website, but I also never raced it. Maybe a couple pulls but was a daily driver. Although, I'd never do that to a Subaru as they're more finicky
Thank you for this.. I am new to subi and trying to do this RIGHT . This video was extremely helpfull in my education! Love that Pass side headlight looks like its got a ram air port.. where are they available? Thanks again
Help me!!! I just found out my engine coolant was in low meter. Idk if there's a leak yet. But was wondering if i should let dealership check up on it if theres a leak or just filled the coolant. I appreciate the help!
I do not disagree whatsoever on the coilovers, I'll say tho on my budget daily shitbox 4g eclipse I got a set of ebay coilovers which were only $350 for all 4 vs $2-300 per oem strut and shock and they handle very well, fully adjustable and have taken quite a few big ass potholes so far. Worth the saved money even if I replace them every 2-3 years
I installed Ruthenium plugs and didn't tune for the extra ignitability. First time I really opened it up, it fired too early and cracked a cylinder sleeve. Simple shit like a different material plug even needs a tune.
What is the largest size tire that can fit on these cars, more specifically the 2019+. And what size tire looks the best? I hate the skinny tire look on cars and I'm planning on getting a sti in the next few weeks.
What about external waste gates for a daily? I have FA20 wrx I guess stage 3 no flex fuel, wanting to add flex and external waste gates with killer b header but not sure if the external waste gates will be liveable
Good list. One other thing I would add is cheap bucket seats. Seems like a lot of people are buying them for the looks without realizing the ebay rep bride seats they bought make it impossible to drive more than 30 minutes without an appointment at the chiropractor.
I'll take quality springs and shocks over cheap Coilovers any day. I love how the Bilstein's with the Swift springs feel and drive.
Fantastic set up 🔥
Bilstein and Eibach for me. Subaru put Bilstein on the S209.
I'm running Swift springs on OE replacement KYBs and it's absolutely gorgeous, still handles like a beast but maintains much of the comfort of the stock suspension
That just goes with the saying, you get what you pay for. I don’t even trust wheels that are $200 a wheel, I’d feel like I’m driving on cardboard.
Same, I’m running bilstein b12’s with H&R springs. Ride quality is very close, maybe even better than stock, but feel way better in corners. Coil overs are nice if you’re tracking your car and need to be able to make adjustments for track conditions but usually overkill for daily drivers especially if you don’t know how to dial them in (which I don’t think most people do lol). Also, I used to run coil overs on my last car and during the winter the perch ring threads would get loaded up with salt and debris and became an absolute mess. Spring/shock set up is much easier to maintain imo
Your subuaru channel is like the ONLY good one out there because you actually talk succinctly and don't ramble and you're not yelling at us or acting like a total hoonigan. I'm really enjoying this content
Eyyyy thank you 🙏🤝
I'm so glad I found your channel when I started modding my wrx. Watching your setups and recommendations compared to using my friends advice ( he blew threw two motors in his sti) has helped me pick the right parts and is the reason why my car runs so good
Glaf to hear that the videos have helped and hopefully your buddy doesn't blow up anymore engines 😬
Excellent list and couldn’t agree more.
Might I add ‘track focused mods’? Many car enthusiasts don’t seem to understand that a car set up for the track, will be a very poor daily driver street car. Examples would be track brake pads (which are generally noisy and require heating up before braking properly), solid mounts and metal bushings (which you touched on already), brake bias controllers and semi-slick tires (if you see any rain during the year).
Ohhhh love this idea for a video! 🔥 totally agree, track built cars that are still street legal aren't always a good idea 😅
This is completely true. Before I had the money to get an Etune I was running Cobb catted dp with a k&n intake and the car ran horrible and had so many issues that I couldn't figure out but once i went and got the tune all of those problems went way and the car runs phenomenal now. Love the vids man.
Glad to hear things got cleaned up after the tune 🥳
Etune without an accessport or is that even possible I'm have a hard time finding an for with this one
This is well thought out and delivered in a good way. Getting your car tuned properly for any mod is HUGE!! You can do exhaust all day and not worry, but if you touch ANYTHING on the intake side you need a tune. I would add do not get an etune if you have replaced anything. I had an appointment at fathouse fab for a dyno tune before I replaced part one. Of course part one was $6k in parts and had my check engine light on all the way there, but the drive home was fabulous!
Great list - I think another important thing to note about OTS maps and why I ALWAYS recommend a Pro tune or at the very least an E Tune is that not only are OTS maps a generic tune for the specific parts they are meant for (like Cobb) but every environment is different. An OTS map in a place way above sea level won’t perform the same as in a place below sea level. But a pro tune done in both of those places respectively will be fine tuned for those conditions
Big facts, always suggest eyunes and protunes. But for those who do run ots for long term. They gotta stick to thr map notes
Spent $900 on D2 coils for my BMW they are stiff, however, I’ve had them on for over 3 years and had no issues. They are middle of the road comfort could be better but I’m pleased with how they have preformed
D2 is a great middle group company, buddy has him in his Evo X. Definitely not bad for the price 🔥
Agree completely with everything on the list. Especially the tuning, I ran ots stage 1 with a catback for 7-8 years and over 100,000km between two different wrx's, and never had a single issue. The most important thing is, I'll say it louder for the kids in the back, HAVING THE RIGHT PARTS FOR THE TUNE!!! Lol.
Side question because I keep getting distracted by it, but are you planning on sealing the headlight/inlet? I keep meaning to ask but always forget by the time I'm done watching the video
No I don't, I've got another headlight set on the way. So this one will just be used for racing or shows 🙏
But Tanner, I put an intake, downpipe, and blowoff valve on my 16 sti on an OTS tune and it ran great! Then I cracked 2 pistons because I leaned out from my blowoff valve leaking and ended up costing me thousands. Now I'm in the process of doing it correctly so it never happens again. Learned the hard way but I learned!
Your not alone my friend 😭😭😭
Wouldnt that richen fuel? Not lean.. As the motor is losing air post maf. meaning it thinks its getting more air then it is thus adding more fuel. Least in boost. It leans the idle with air leaks as your losing vacuum.
@@ogfromutube9649 yeah, my car ran really rich in boost and really lean on idle and at slow speeds. I assume thats what caused my pistons to get hot and when i sent it with too much boost it caused cylinders 2 and 4 ringland failures and cylinder 4 to have a few small cracks around the top of the piston
@@rudecanadian9916 ouch... I ran my aem x series wideband into stock ecu. Since it has much faster response on short term fuel trims. One time maf was dirty i noticed afr was staying in 14s under wot so immediately let off. This is why wideband arer so important on higher then stock power levels and even stock. Modern volvo uses wideband from the factory. Also have my ecu tuned to flash engine light when knock/detonation is detected. Not super sensitivie tho. If more then 2 knocks deteced in a 1 second interval it triggers and i know to let off. Or if water meth isnt triggering. Also have low windshield washer fluid light on gauge wired into methanol resevoir. Stock ecu had a 3 bar map soldered in as well as stores 2 maps that i can switch on the fly. However i did not setup safeguards to auto switch maps on knock. The main difference between the 2 maps is ignition timing. Nor do i have flex fuel sensor for fuel quality. But we have no e85 here. So i use vp racing octanium with 93 super and am able to run 39* of timing advance. My ecu also had no way to control vvt cams. So we repurposed the rear o2 preheater wires to power the vvt solenoids at certain rpm/load points as the rear o2 is disabled and am running catless downpipe. Lots of stuff you can do to save your engine. Im running 23psi on a 50mm with stock internals just wont ramp in boost til over 3k to avoid bending rods. Also my 5cyl 20v is 8.5:1 cr. Headgaskets arent really a concern until much bigger turbos. The 2.3 with 83mm bore has thick cylinder walls so cracking is less prone then the 2.5 engines with 9.5:1 cr.
@@rudecanadian9916 same thing here, put a bov on when I was in highschool bc it “sounded cool” and don’t get me wrong, it sounded awesome, but I was losing SO MUCH AIR. It was dying at idle. It had some really nice pops and bangs as well, thankfully some other minor parts went out before any real damage was done and that scared me into going back to no bov. Could’ve been much worse. Not a very smart decision😂
Ive had my Raceland Primo coilovers on my 11 WRX for about two months now and they are phenominal so far, only oddity is shock noise on the fronts. Ride quality is pretty good and they're 15-way adjustable. Only thing left to see is longevity.
LOVE LOVE LOVE these discussion videos! Please do a DEEP DIVE video on suspension / handling upgrades. I have almost all of the Whiteline suspension parts + BC coils on my car, and addicted to the grip! I would love a video on levels of suspension upgrades, whether (and what kind of...) chassis bracing is worth it, and what is / is not worth the $ for suspension parts.
PS... I'm the white SF5 Forester you smashed on the last live stream! I promise to take better photo next time so you don't have to hum/haw about the smash lol
Downnnnn I can make that happen 🔥
Also jelly of that fozzy 🥵
Yes please do this!!! I am building a 14 wrx and don’t car much for any power over 300 whp but would love for a sweet video from you on suspension upgrades so I can tear up the canyons here in Utah!
Current set up:
JDM 4/2 pots with braided lines, and BMC brace (trying to source an STI BMC if you think it’s worthwhile)
BC Coilovers
Whiteline sway bars + endlinks (switching to GNP end links soon)
Roll centre kit + anti lift (caster) kit
STi carbon Front / WL rear strut tower bars
She’s a daily so open to suggestion on keeping stock bushing, or which to replace.
Also looking for advice on whether (or WHEN) lower control arms / trailing arms are worth the expense.
I have a set of STI aluminum control arms ready to install but want to finalize my suspension set up because that will be alignment # 3 since I keep upgrading the suspension set up :)
Working on a 2.5L RS-Ti street + track weapon build next, so I’d love to hear recommendation on daily v track day suspension upgrades.
Fozzy bear (my SF5) is a 2000 JDM Forester St/B. OEM+ theme inside and out. Apart from the turbo back and suspension, all OEM+
STI Type MII interior (full black/on/black), V1 STI front seats, V9 STi wheel, STI TMIC, gold BBS wheels (summer), forged pro drive wheels (winter). Just missing the SF5 STI rear seats and e-brake handle to finish the STI interior.
OEM drivetrain since I cannot open source tune the OEM ECU… so big sad, and hence the RS build next
Subscriber PHIL from the Okanagan BC!
you have the front and rear white line sway bars and end links? I have them on my list and you seem to love them haha
One thing to add is polyurethane shifter bushings. I bought the Kartboy short shifter kit with those bushings and now I’m getting noticeable NVH through my shifter 😭
I would add a few more things. It drives me crazy when I see dangerous mods added just to look cool. Aftermarket steering wheel. I’d rather have an airbag. 6point roll cage on the street? Super dangerous with no helmet.
100% 🙏
everyone who has an aftermarket steering wheel understands that it doesn't come with an airbag and they don't care. the video is about mods that result it negatives that aren't very obvious before you install them. hindsight 2020
@@paolo1334 uh oh. Paolo just realized his momo won’t save his life in a crash and feels personally attacked. Stay safe!
@@nickormiston8411 well if you have an older GD chassis you get a Momo from the factory 👍
@@nickormiston8411 I don't have an aftermarket wheel lol. Stop being pretentious
Solid info. A few other mods that can ruin your daily driver are cheap cast wheels that crack and fall apart (any size cheap rims will do this), cheap brakes and cheap brake rotors, cheap exhaust systems, and cheap ebay turbos. Every one of those listed I've seen end up bad.
Cheap ebay turbos are a big one
Gotta give a big shout out I order a hoodie for my wife for the first engine giveaway but it unfortunately arrived with a big burn from the printer. But not the point my wife messages and was immediately taken care of with a replacement on the way so if you're even the slightest worried about buying his merchandise just know he stands behind it and makes sure everyone is happy. Thank you tanner for helping her and it's awesome to see the channel and blubaru growing.
Anytime! New order is in and should be printed in the next few days 🥳
Just traded up to a 2021 STI from a 2020 WRX Premium with stage 2+. I 💯% agree with tuning!!! Tune for everything and try to stick with the same manufacturer. I went Grimmspeed everything engine wise with a Tomei cat-back and BrenTune 93shell map and loved it. Daily driven. No issues. Keep up the great content bro!!!!
Glad to hear it has been treating you 🥳🥳
Totally agree on the bov!! I put upgraded diverter valve with a stainless tube inlet and open filter.. Still sounds amazing and no unaccounted for unmetered air..
The ecu assumes that air is being recirced on throttle lift. Which is how you get rich spikes on shifts. And more drop in boost during shifts as well.
Mines custom tuned and even my tuner said DO NOT use a bov... Heavier spring and silicone diaphragm is all you need for higher then stock psi...
A good intake and inket sound so nice 🔥
mk7.5 TSi Golf here (1.8t)
OTS APR Stage1 tune
no engine hardware modifications required
BUT
I insalled a proper front mount from CTSTurbo, a turbosmart full recirculating diverter valve and a neuspeed intake
as well as a stage2 southbend clutch, a "turbo muffler delete"
+ second cat AND Muffler delete (kept OEM resonator)
with that setup I KNOW I am not at full potential and that a proper tune would make more power.... but that's the thing, I don't want more ! I just want my IATs to be low and my Diverter valve NOT to stick as the OEM does +.. a clutch is never a bad idea....
there is some flaws in your reasonning,and while I agre with most of the things you said... some of us mod our car to be faster.....but not...rocket ships !
Also depends on the ECU and car. Some ECUs are nit capable of making suitable adjustments without tunes. VW ECUs have fantastic self learning properties. Each application and car will vary though 🤙
100% agree with everything on this list I have one more huuuuge thing:
1.) If you decide to do a full "build" be brutally honest with yourself and set REALISTIC power goals. Nothing comes without a compromise. For example choose clearances that match how the car will be used. You may find yourself stuck with a noisy, piston slappy car that may be capable of big power, but it won't be a car you want to drive to work everyday.
100% on this! This gets over looked so often!
The coilovers on my mk5 gti were about $800 (in 2010) and have over 100k miles on them now and are still near perfect you don't have to spend much more for reliability just don't go for the absolute cheapest $200 no name special.
Facts 🔥
I had good luck with KYB coilovers on my old 05 STi. In 2012 they were around $800-$900.
Local cat from Renton here! Another great vid bro! Ive never broke any of these mod guidelines myself, but one of your vids a while back talked me out of a 50/50 B.O.V. ...So I installed a cobb sf intake with their "airbox" and I hear all the bypass valve i need and am loving it on my pro-tuned cobb stage 2.5 2004 wrx wagon daily driver.
A mod I say to avoid is EBAY headlights... spec-D or anything like that. They "might" look cool in daytime but at night the light output and beam pattern are SHIT and unsafe at best
Ohhhhh EBAY headlights are always bad, they leak, have a terrible light pattern
I man'd up and got a retrofit from circuit demon. So badass
as a 32 year old who joined NASIOC in 2006 when I bought my first car (97 Impreza L) and read literally every bit of info I possibly could between then and now going down that subaru obsession rabbit hole, I agree with every single point you made.
NASIOC is a place full of wonders both good and bad 😅🔥
@@Smeedia 16 years of experience really helps you know who and what to trust on there. ;) stick to the nerdy side and you'll probably be okay.
Great informative video! I'd like to make a suggestion, if you don't mind. When making a video involving a list, can you either put time stamps in the description, or have an indicator on the screen as to which number of the list you are on? For example, if I already know solid mounts are a bad idea on a daily, I'd like to skip ahead to the other items of the list but don't have any way of knowing where to skip to, so it's a guessing game as I skip 10 seconds ahead over and over until I hear you talk about something else, and I might miss something that I wanted to hear. Otherwise, really enjoyed the video!
Yes I can 🥳 appreciate the feedback on it too! Always open to making changes or improvements to make the videos better.
100% agree with all of these. From personal experience as well. For example, the BOV. Mine was even a hybrid and had a massive leak, and I didn’t even know until I got a retune. On that, making sure you know what kind of tune you need in conjunction with the parts you had lol I was on a catless tune with that hybrid BOV leak for like a year lol
How well was the car running with the leaks?👀
Man I know you’re crazy busy but I’m in the process of doing a rebuild with an OEM shortblock and would like to ask you a few questions. I do have the service manual.
- Rocker arm sequence. 2015 wrx, they all fell when I first pulled the cam carrier. Labeled 1 and 2. Cannot find anything anywhere on them as far as a reference to what the numbers mean. Closest thing I believe I found was someone saying wear pattern is why they need to go back where they came off of.
- LW Crank Pulley. You explained it in the video, however, I only ask I need to replace the OEM. OEM is $120 or so, same price as an aftermarket. Car is FBO on E60 401 whp. If oem is the way to go and it’s not worth explaining - I completely understand.
- creating gaskets. Is there a way to verify or check if it’s sealed right aside from a start up? Or a method I can do at home?
Thanks. Love the content.
The lightweight crank is super dependent on the style of engine you have, like inline 4s will kill themselves with one, but an i6 will be perfectly fine. I remember reading somewhere that the older ejs dont even have a harmonic balancer because the boxer cycle of the engine is supposed to be self balancing
Definitely engine depending, would still use a damper over a light weight pulley personally
@@Smeedia for sure, the difference between an OEM pulley set and a lightweight/underdrive pulley set is minimal at best, and the $200 or so and time spent replacing them could easily be put into something like braided steel brake lines or lightweight flywheel that will drastically increase performance
Yeah, the idea is balance. I know that longer living and higher revving rotaries get the rotating assembly balanced with the flywheel and crank pulley to ensure minimum front to back forces. A lightweight flywheel will throw off crank balance just as much as a lightweight pulley.
What real benefit does light crank pulley provide that a light flywheel does not?? Lightening the mass of the rotating assembly..
@@foxunfocused idk im running a ttv 11lbs chrome moly single mass flywheel as it was pinned for a better heavier sachs 707 pressure plate. Little harder to rev match and harder on the calf muscle. But once used to it, it shaves about .2 off 1/4 mile.
And has less drop during shifts. Also impossible to slip even 4th gear 3500rpm launches.
Like Subaru volvo also has ton of rev hang but its supposed to.
This actually had useful information in it, and didn't default to common answers.
Though, I would like to add: Bigger turbos (not just slightly), FMIC (on WRX hatches in cold areas) and turbo blankets.
Subies already lack in low-end torque to begin with, so having a significantly bigger turbo will make it annoying in stop-and-go traffic. As for turbo blankets, they're a major fire hazard, as they're a perfect wick whenever oil gets on them. Lastly, front-mount intercoolers are fine on most Subies, except for daily driven hatches in cold weather. This is pretty niche, but it's also incredibly annoying to deal with. To install a FMIC, you need to relocate your battery into the hatch. Except, there's no mechanical backup for the hatch, so if your battery ever drains, you're nearly screwed. You have to climb through the interior (between the front seats if the rears are locked), manage to fold down the seats while you're cramped in there, get into the back and pop off a little plastic cover to even access the hatch release. And that's not even including the possibility of battery acid leaking into the interior (you should have a box, but battery acid causes rust and the fumes are highly toxic).
Im actually running solid mounts on my daily driver 05 Legacy GT. MSI solid engine mounts. Aluminati solid transmission mount. Currently running an agency power pitchstop with whiteline crossmember bushings. But i still feel the car isnt solid enough for my liking so i might throw in the aluminati solid pitchstop with the solid crossmember bushings. Personally the NVH does not bother me that much. (does occasionally on long drives) but for the majority of the time i can put up with it. But the feeling of solid mounts is unbeatable. You feel so connected to the car. I would recommend it for people who can put up with NVH!
Definitely solid mods if your someone who doesn't mind all the NVH 🔥
Agree with everything.
Solid mounts, eh, personal preference and I actually enjoy them.
Didn’t mention hybrid bov/ bpv. They too are no bueno, especially open to atmosphere even a little bit, and tend to have a higher probability of leaks. STI I bought had one, I immediately put a factory one back on.
13:30 OTS Maps are just temporal
If plans are to reach certain hardware: full exhaust, bigger turbo, FMIC, Freektune, etc... these, at least in my case, were achieved 5 years after buying the car... I even planned the whole thing before buying the car.
So I installed the Intake, then bigger TMIC (in my case), better recycling valve... and used the first OTS map (Stage 1), then added the rest and kept climbing... specially the new fuel pump.
The plan was not to use the OST, but to keep going until I could get a real tune from professionals or go to a dyno
Once I did it was happiness... slow, perhaps, but I am a woman and geez installing the exhaust and specially the DP was hell and I had to ask for help
Lightweight pulleys destroy engines.
Vibe analysis tech here. Harmonic dampers and bushings have a very important role in mitigating mechanical looseness cause by vibrations.
Harmonic dampers are especially important in preventing resonance caused by the excitation of a parts natural frequency.
A great example of failure is vibration tests on the shinook.
Speed density fuel injection is awesome! In high school and university I was tuning OBD1 GM stuff that was mostly speed density. Atmospheric BOV is excellent on those. MAF sensors (to me) are just an annoyance. Hitting max grams/sec, swap in a bigger MAF or custom housing, try to tune that, blah, blah, blah. Just learn to tune your own speed density and never look back. Sure you have to retune with any VE improvement to the engine. But with affordable wideband O2 sensors, it's quite easy. Back in my GM days, almost no one had a WB O2 sensor so it could be a pain.
Speed density is the way 🔥 once you understand how VE tables work they're not too bad
@@Smeedia Absolutely. Not to mention MAFs are fragile and often get dirty, causing issues. Just an unnecessary failure point.
Hey man, I liked the video. I think something you could add, and im not going through all the comments and what not to see other suggestions, but my sti, I tried to do things that were just like.... weight reduction. I thought no tune needed, I could handle it etc. 2 piece rotors, carbon fiber driveshaft, and light weight flywheel. lots of rotating mass reductions, that you wouldn't think would mess anything up, but they added up. I had driven only manual for about 10 years at that point and when descriptions of clutches say about track use only, they mean it. I killed my car a few times breaking it in, pretty embarrassing. I wont lie, once I figured it out it was very quick, but it was hard to nail down constantly. I did snap motor mounts, and went solid, and I agree with what you said (tho i like the sound and feel) I would argue motor mounts on the list, before clutches and flywheels that are arguably more "upsold", should be added to your list at the very least.
people screw up by trying to go full race car on their street car. i went with all group N bushings, engine, top hats, all suspension bushings. STi brand lowering springs on Tokico D spec struts.
When you go full race car on a daily it completely ruins the car. Made that mistake with thr 05 STI. Fantastic car but as a daily I 200% killed it
Finding wheels that clear my STi hatch front brembos without a spacer is a frigging mission
I feel this 😤
My car came stock with 16s which do not clear calipers on 13" rotors. My spare is rear only lol. If i get a front flat i have to swap it with a rear and put spare on the back. Guess i shouldve bought 5 rims...
its the fucking struggle
Lenso spec e wheels fit perfect 👌👍
Currently laying on the couch with a sore mouth and hating every second of it but the whole “Luther the Armadillo” thing was funny and made me feel better. I love the random tangents. Thanks for temporarily making me forget about the pain.
Glad I could be of assistance and hope ya feel better soon!
I had put polyurethane mounts on my Mustang ages ago, and all I did was make the car shake like crazy, and it actually cracked my bellhousing. I can't imagine metal to metal.
It cracked it?! 😳
@@Smeedia yup, cracked about a 10 inch gash on the left hand side, it took about 4 months to do that though. Had to replace the bellhousing and ended up putting stock mounts back on the car. It was (and is) a shaky V8 though)
100% on the OTS tune thing. Im one of those that doesnt believe in OTS tunes at all, just because I have seen too many popped motors on them. Say what you will, paying 400 dollars for a pro tune is always better than paying 4000 for a new motor. On the note of swapping parts without tuning though, some parts ARE made to run with the factory tune and do so just fine. For instance I have a Roush Intake on my Focus ST and that and my exhaust are ALL I have done, both are designed by Borla and Roush to not mess with the way the engine runs and come with documentation that not only proves this, but Ford themselves partnered up with them to make these parts so they are warranty safe and are both 50 state CARB legal (for Cali owners out there reading). Now, my car is MAP based, so that probably played into the design process and reason these parts mesh so well with the stock tune, but if you are MAF based, yeah, you need to re-tune NO MATTER WHAT unless its like...a cat-back. Any time you change ANYTHING following after that MAF sensor, the car has NO IDEA what is going on, it thinks the stock parts are still there and will keep sending the same amount of fuel and timing. If you put a big-ass intake on there and start shoving a lot more air into the car, or a bigger intercooler and now the air is colder and more dense, guess what, you just made a lean condition, which, if left unchecked, makes things go BOOM, and I aint talking your snap crackle pop exhaust boom, i mean rod through the top of your hood boom.
can confirm - the stock BPV with the cob intake sound incredible. it's not quite as loud of a "psh" noise but its still pretty sick. 10/10 would recommend
They sound great 🔥
Which intake exactly? Don’t they have 2? If I’m wrong then sorry haha
@@blakedavis1665 I have the Cobb SF intake + air box. I know they offer some overpriced carbon one or something but I doubt it sounds better. Looks nice though!
@@Telesko awesome thanks for the info. I just picked up my 2020 wrx and just have a Cobb catted turbo back exhaust and my accessport so it’s nice to hear good things about Cobbs intake
The wrong size wheels in regards to the offset was a great topic. Tire poke is extremely unsafe. Hit a a bad bump and bottom out on the fender and it's probable you are going to loose control and wreck.
Yep! I watched this happen to a Civic (because of course, right?) directly in front of me on I-95. Car looked awesome, rolling low and wide over some really meaty fit, but we came to an area where the road was being graded down, and POW, he was on the shoulder. Like, full, catastrophic blowout of his tire.
I love poke, but you've gotta do it right. The top of the tire should still be able to clear your fender. Usually, stretched tires and cambered wheels so that you can tuck the top inside the fender. And it goes hand-in-hand with the cheapo suspensions. FFS people, if you're gonna lower your car, or go with crazy setups, make sure you know where it will bottom out. Properly adjust your damping. People cut 2" out of the stock spring to slam their car over some funky fitment, and then wonder why the hell they keep shredding tires or chewing the fender.
I have poly (might as well be solid mounts) on my daily and it’s honestly not crazy bad. At first the vibration was really rough but once you get used to it it’s not too bad 👍🏻
I will never understand the idea that a daily should have any of these mods. I figured it out on my own about 20 years ago. If I can afford to pump all this money into a car I love to increase it's performance, I can afford to have a really cheap decent car to daily. What this video doesn't even touch on is the environmental damage done to a car that driven in rain/snow. Moisture destroys the parts under a car. Dirt holds moisture against surfaces longer, and road salt/brine does that while also drastically accelerating corrosion.
Also all good facts to tackle in, especially in salty states during the winter time
got my 2013 PBP wrx wagon in nov last year finally did timing belt/throttlebody/radiator hoses, throttlebody hose/trans, rear diff flud/oil, filters, stock air filter/ and some stuff for suspension. feeling like a new car! can't wait to go cobb stage 2 with an ets cat back. ill be sure to get E-Tuned!
Yesssss going to sound good!
Luther the Armadillo sounds like a type of improved explosive device.
Gotta watch out for Luther 😳
💯 with the BOV.
I got a Cobb intake and Cobb LF BPV on my 2016 wrx. (Ets 4in fmic)
And it sounds amazing. So loud. All the perks of a BOV, but completely functional and safe for the motor.
Yessssss 🔥🔥🔥
Tuning n00b here. How long can you go without a pro/dyno tune once you've added bolt on mods to your car? For example, say you've get an intake, AOS, BPV and catted J pipe but can't get an appointment with your pro tuner for a week or more and there isn't an OTS map for your particular mix of parts. Should you wait to install until just before your tune date, or can you get buy for a while? Also, most dyno shops want everything to be as perfect as possible before you show up; if you've just built everything, how do you ensure it will pass their pre-run inspection?
Speaking of suspension components, I was looking at either the Blistein Type RA upgrade, or Ohlins coil overs, but I’ve been hearing amazing things about Fortune Auto 500s so now I have no idea what I want! Appreciate this video man, mines a daily so I’m trying to keep it as reliable and fun as possible…
Also wanted to say, you recommended the Titan 7 wheels to me, and I was comparing them to the BBS wheels, they’re actually lighter, and they look better, plus have the color I want for a fraction of the price! Think I’m gonna go with them soon so I appreciate the recommendation!
Glaf to hear you like the titans! What's your budget for suspension? 🤔
I have Ohlins on my STI and FA 500 on my girlfriends WRX and I like the FAs more.
@@Craiggg12345 just out of curiosity, are the 500s more forgiving? Do the 500s preform as nicely as the Ohlins when giving them some beans? I like the price tag of the 500s a lot more than the Ohlins lol
@@Smeedia the Ohlins were about 2500? So somewhere in that ballpark (maximum)
Need to replace my original harmonic balancer and you saved me from getting a lightweight one and I appreciate it.
Glad I could be of service my friend 🙏🙏🙏
Tanner what about bypass valves on FA20? Does the same thing go? Is it a big no if I’m not getting it tuned cause I already had it time a year ago?
Bypass valves are safe 🤙
Just bought my first wrx. This will be my first time putting mods on a car. All your videos have been helpful with what and what not to put on my car.
Congrats on the car and glad the videos help😁
05 wrx bone stock 1 owner car 166k miles wasn't abused too bad did leak down test all healthy I've done a full tune up on it ik I'm going to need an aos what would be a good mod list for a fun daily
I kept my stock springs and added Koni yellows on my 13 WRX which gave enough drop for a four season car. Not easy finding springs still in production for my car.
RCE yellows are another solid one 🔥
I had a crosstrek because I hike a lot and spend some time in the mountains. I trade it for a WRX and now I’m wondering if there is such thing as coil overs with air suspension so I can bring it up if I’m somewhere that I need more height?
That intro was so great and relatable!!
😁😁😁
Just a pro tune made my car run more healthy and more powerful. And now I won't be installing the lightweight crank pulley my friend gave me.(I think ik why he gave it to me now) edit: smeedia is so cool, he hearted my comment like 6 months after he posted the video❤
I can vouch for a few of those. I bought an 06 a bit ago and there was a atmospheric BOV installed. I of course wasn't easy on the car during the test drive and didn't keep it in 5th or 6th for long. As I was driving home after buying the car and ignoring the 8 owners reported on the Carfax, I noticed that it was trying to overheat.
Long story short...
One of the previous owners installed the BOV and decided to run their own vacuum lines. The had a leak one side of a T-fitting installed on the BOV that lead to no where within the passenger compartment and tried to stretch the smallest hose I have ever seen over the barb on the wastegate actuator solenoid. Which was also leaking vacuum and was not opening the wastegate. FULL BOOST on stock internals... Yay. They just about killed the piston rings and the car lasted about a year and a half after I reverted the car back to stock as much as possible.
That always sounds like a good time. Been treating you well after correcting everything?
@@Smeedia It ran for about a year and a half before the original clutch went out at about 130k miles. Then the rings in cylinder 4 went with cylinder 1 not too far behind.
Unfortunately I don't have the tools or space to fix the engine and it was my only car. I traded it in for a 19 Impreza 2 months ago and Subaru gave me a bumper to bumper warranty until February 2026. We'll see what happens there, but in the mean time I got a guy sourcing me a JDM EJ207 and matching transmission in case I am not a fan of the next gen STIs
Solid do not do list. I especially agree with the use of a Fluidampr over lightweight pulley wheels. Secondary high revolution high rpm vibration can be deadly for an engine. Protune or Etune over OTS tune also to allow maximum choice in the bolt on build unless of course you stick faithfully to the OTS part recipe.
Big facts! High RPM causes some decent vibration through that crankshaft. That damper does wonders to save your engine
Thankfully I've listened and haven't done almost all of these. Only 1 I have pushed is putting 255s on the stock wheels with a 20mm spacer. It's close but I'm getting a fender roll in a week. Love these fun videos keep em coming. 💪👍🤜
I don't think that's pushing it too much 🔥
@@Smeedia they look good I'll throw the pics up again in discord. 🤙
Can you do the maintenance intervals again but this time for running e85? And having a built block?
I can make that happen 🔥
@@Smeedia you da best
Hi, I want tu buy an STI from 2015-2020, which one is the best one ? What it has and what it does not that makes it the best?
Get a 2019-2021, they come with thr type RA short blocks. They hold some good powah
Kind of a late question but ive seen a lot of debate regarding tuning for a fully recirculating bypass valve. If youre running bone stock on sti can you use it without a tune? I know blowoff is kind of pointless for a stock motor and you absolutely should tune but the only answer i seem to find on forums is "just keep the stock one bro" or i use a 50/50 or 60/40 and its fine.
As an ASE certified tech, who's been through all of this (and as an Evo X owner, which also uses a MAF sensor setup). On a stock setup, with a MAF setup, use a bypass valve (BPV), not a blow-off valve (BOV). Especially, if you don't have any supporting mods or tuning. I'm at 500 whp & still use a BPV (I'm not tuned for speed-density - i.e. no MAF sensor). You will not see any gains by tossing a BOV on a stock setup. As he mentioned in this video, installing a quality air-intake will amplify that "pffftt" blow-off sound that you're most likely looking for. Adding an upgraded BPV (Cobb), with an intake, will further enhance the sound.
Thoughts on shimmed or aftermarket diffs ? Got some , drifts insane but super super tight at low speeds . What’s your experience or thoughts on em ? I bought car off a really really reputable Subaru shop worker was basically built for the track but it’s a immaculate road car
Powerflex makes different durometer poly urethane mount bushings. Diff colors for diff stiffness. Even filled one using 3m window urethane before its about 20% stiffer then rubber.
Ohhhhh I like how they color code them 🔥
I have “solid” mounts on my 280z quotations just because that’s how they are listed by silver project BUT they have a delrin or poly bushing separating both halves of the mount, and I have to say it’s the perfect amount granted that car is only ever driven hard as a weekend toy and the inherent balance of the straight six could be helping me on the vibration portion. But for a daily driven car I absolutely agree with you one hundred percent , if it was my daily I think that it’s be too much and a little annoying to drive a grocery getter with a 90s massage chair from planet fitness 😂
Ohhhh L28? 👀🔥
@@Smeedia indeed sir all stock power train which is why I had mentioned before my wiring harness is shorting out on me and junk 😂
100% agree with a lot of your opinions, light weight crank pulleys are trash, not having a tune can ruin your day. The only ej I’ve ever seen run great using a vent to atmosphere bov was an ej20k. Every other ej I’ve seen with a vent to atmosphere bov has ran like trash. The other thing I think you may have missed on your list is the grimspeed aos systems that attach to the oil caps. Those are a complete waste of money and an easy way to fuck your car up. Keep up the good info though dude!
I left that one out intentionally but 100% agree on that AOS
@@Smeedia yeah those aos systems are pure trash, perfect way to destroy something nice. You tune that eg33 yet? I actually just bought one for a future build! I may have some questions for you down the road haha
Seill waiting in my nee intake manifold then off to the dyno it goes 🥳
Omg.. you nailed it on lightweight crank pulleys... I fight with so many car kid nubs and thier shit always blows up down the road.
Definitely hit or miss on engines, but 10/10 od always suggest a good damper over a lightweight pulley any day of the week
Wait, but I was so happy when you said in another vid that it's ok to get a light weight crank pulley for a daily car that hasn't been heavily modded? And now I want one lol. Little co fused though.
I would love If you made a vid specifically to detail a few bang for buch things you can do to bump up your daily driver's power. I have a long highway commute with my 13 Impreza sport and was surpirsed by the difference when I got a k&n drop in filter and removed the pzev filter. I had to reset the ecu for it.
I don't need a turbo, just want to know what's good. Would a straight thru muffler, CAI, highflow cat, headers, and maybe fuel inctors and throttle body make a nice little difference? And which of those would make the most difference?
Thanks!
New fan
I swear everytime I debate on getting certain mods for my brz, you come out with videos like this one! love your content bro! 🙌
Well glad the videos have been helping my friend 🥳
I put Swift springs on my bugeye wagon and the ride is great but it looks way too high. Most people assume it’s stock ride height. I got the Swift springs because I always thought BC coilovers were bad quality but I guess that’s not true. Deciding if I should just switch to BC Racing and deal with the harsher ride. I can’t justify putting air ride on that old car at this point.
I've used BC for a long time and never really had any issues with them. Have a set on the EVO and had a set on the 05 STI 🔥
@@Smeedia I appreciate your advice. Maybe I’ll switch to coilovers because right now I think you’d pass rather than smash if you saw my car.
"Cuz you want Greg and Jimmy over there in the yellow house to hear it" Lmao
The only benefit to an aftermarket harmonic balancer is a dedicated drag racing build or you need more ribs for a supercharger
My favorite one is running cattless with out an EWG. If you can even get a tuner to do this, its a ticking time bomb.
Yesss, especially during WOT Pulls 😬
Thanks for filming and making this. Loved the intro. 😁
Anytime 🥳🥳
I’m one at fault for the out the atmosphere blow off valve and regret it later. Just to sound good isn’t going to beat engineering ingenuity.
Great video, first time I have seen your channel, definitely will check out the rest of your videos. Can't have too many guys like you trying to help the newbs and steer them away from "im gonna be so cool" decisions. Back in my day it was fart cans and cut springs, lol.
Lol I've been down that path 😅 figured I'd try and help people avoid some of the mistakes if possible 😅
I have never owned a subaru but everything on this list is 100% true. I feel like when you’re new to cars, there’s so many do’s and don’ts that you don’t know who to listen to. Hopefully, they will heed your advice because these lessons that can take you so much time and money to learn.
This applies to so many diffrent cars, made alot of these mistakes with my old Z 🙃
I have a GFB blow off valve on my 05xt mainly because the previous owner blew the old engine in it up by putting too much boost through a stock engine,
my mod list is:
GFB blow off valve
BC racing coil overs
turbo back exhaust (xforce 3")
5x100 17x8 wheels rota grid r
engine swap of the same year as previous owner blew the engine
sti bonnet scoop
money is my main issue as i want to make my car look as nice as it can but it takes me about 6-12 months between mods but i love it too bits
(bov is 40% atmosphere vent for very cool pshh noises)
Definitely makes for some fun noises 🥳
What do you think of a pitch stop mount addon on a VA WRX?
Saving for STI but I have 2011 Subaru Impreza and wondering what I should do to make it louder, hard to find parts for this model
Is it still stock exhaust?
I had 275 rears on stock. Decided to put 305s just for more grip. Only thing is if I go bigger to 315 maybe 325 I would need wide body.
I’m running cobb stage 1+ ots tune you think I’m I will be ok if installed GS inlet Or u recommend tune it ?
Is there a way to send you a pic of my 17 sti. Rear camber seems to much just trying to figure out is this is normal. My 08 hatch sti did not have this issue. I’m getting some Cusco upper arms for rear to fix but I’m just curious there’s been no rear damage to the car except for my wife back into it one day.
Instagram 🙏 sane as my YT name
Love this video!! Easy to understand information with personality.
FF3 Balancor and Luther the armadillo had me rolling!!😂
Hey man, ive got a 2015 sti. Im new to tuning/performance...new to cars in general honestly because ive only really been into them since i got my car a year ago.....
Anyway, thinking of getting the stage 1 package from cobb for my sti. Comes with the accessport and intake. Im wondering if youre able to give any insight to the ots tune. Is it safe to run if the intake is all i add to the car, or is it gonna make my car unreliable?
You will be safe to run it and shouldent have any issues with reliability 🙏🙏🙏
WRXs are only MAF tunable right? I’ve seen speed density kits for STIs, but last I looked nothing for FA20s.
And agree with keeping the BPV. I bought the Turbosmart smartport BPV/BOV hybrid and tried venting to ATM and it would kill my car. Took the vent off and plugged it to be full BPV and still ran terrible but wouldn’t kill the car. Ended up putting the stock one back and and ran fine lol🤷🏻♂️
They're also SD tunable, seen a few of them. 🙏
@@Smeedia I just looked and couldn’t really find any kits for 2015+. You know of a kit?
I belive IBR and visconti tuning have kits
I bought a ‘19 wrx cvt in October and just recently threw a Cobb stage 1 tune. I have a nameless muffler delete but other than that I plan on just tossing the Cobb Intake for the stage 1+ tune and leaving it be after I get an Invidia r400 for it
Not a bad set up 🔥😁
@@Smeedia now I want to be sure, in terms of reliability, the muffler delete shouldn’t affect the behavior of the car too much right? With the Cobb stage 1+ Intake and tune it shouldn’t be anything unpredictable. I get my oil changed every 3000-3500 miles depending on when I get the time. I do drive 100 miles a day in the car. Looking to add a liiiiiittle more power but keep it as a fun daily. Any recommendations other than the trans cooler (already looking at those)
Just trying to mod it a bit but not too much to where I start having issues while running the car
No, a muffler delete will have no impact on it 🙏 sounds like you've already got it sorted. Just the basics for reliability like an AOS and your set
@@Smeedia thanks man, love the vids btw. Funny to hear you point out faults I’ve had buddies do on their cars. Not even mentioning subies lol. They’re temperamental but really fun cars and of course…the rumble 🤤
i think this vid is more medium-high level parts if you know what i mean, think the next vid should be more common things like, dont put an intake or dont put a catless downpipe over a catted one, etc…(not saying to not do those mods just giving an example of more common mods)
But why did the bit about NASIOC get me to literally laugh out loud 😂😂😂
And then “I can put whatever parts I want on my car” 😹😹 of course you need a tune
It resonates with all of us 😅😅😅
That's not true actually when you're talking about the fiesta ST regarding the OTS map. Ran the car from 55k to 132k on OTS, BUT*** like he said you must ONLY run the parts on Cobb's website, but I also never raced it. Maybe a couple pulls but was a daily driver. Although, I'd never do that to a Subaru as they're more finicky
As long as the right parts are used with OTS, really shouldent have many issues. 🤙
@@Smeedia yes agreed and the thing is ford's aren't as particular as Subaru. I got my Subie protuned as soon as I could
Thank you for this.. I am new to subi and trying to do this RIGHT . This video was extremely helpfull in my education!
Love that Pass side headlight looks like its got a ram air port.. where are they available?
Thanks again
Anytime 🥳 and I made that headlight, engine swapped my STI with a flat 6 and did a headlight mounted turbo 🙏
Help me!!! I just found out my engine coolant was in low meter. Idk if there's a leak yet. But was wondering if i should let dealership check up on it if theres a leak or just filled the coolant. I appreciate the help!
I would top it off and monitor it, if it happens again then I'd start investigating
Why again does Tanner not have *at LEAST* 200k subs and thousands of likes? That shit makes no sense to me....such VALUABLE information!
UA-cam is hiding us from the world 😤
@@Smeedia Looks like it! I'll keep doing my job by spreading your channel around!
I do not disagree whatsoever on the coilovers, I'll say tho on my budget daily shitbox 4g eclipse I got a set of ebay coilovers which were only $350 for all 4 vs $2-300 per oem strut and shock and they handle very well, fully adjustable and have taken quite a few big ass potholes so far. Worth the saved money even if I replace them every 2-3 years
Glad to hear they've been treating you well 🔥
I installed Ruthenium plugs and didn't tune for the extra ignitability. First time I really opened it up, it fired too early and cracked a cylinder sleeve. Simple shit like a different material plug even needs a tune.
What is the largest size tire that can fit on these cars, more specifically the 2019+. And what size tire looks the best? I hate the skinny tire look on cars and I'm planning on getting a sti in the next few weeks.
275/35/18 can fit
For 19s I'd probably stick with a 265
So happy you keep bringing up the OTS tunes. 👏some👏people👏still👏 won't 👏listen.
People going to do what people going to do 🤷♂️
@@Smeedia this will always be true too 😅
What about external waste gates for a daily? I have FA20 wrx I guess stage 3 no flex fuel, wanting to add flex and external waste gates with killer b header but not sure if the external waste gates will be liveable
For thr most part that's fine, they're nit crazy loud or annoying to live with 🙏
The best video about car mods I have ever seen.
Eyyyy, thanks daniel 🙏
Good list. One other thing I would add is cheap bucket seats. Seems like a lot of people are buying them for the looks without realizing the ebay rep bride seats they bought make it impossible to drive more than 30 minutes without an appointment at the chiropractor.
Yesssss! Also alit of thrm can be pretty unsafe