Thanks Dave, I’m loving the new look. If I remember rightly Del was looking too reduce the risk of too much braking power with the front TKC tyre. Skäl David
Hey David love the flame discs very Ben Hur .Good job its a mk1, the mk2 had 12 pistons in all up front i thoroughly enjoyed polishing them , honest . Ok brother take care get strong and hopefully see you on the road somewhere this year 👍🏻👍🏻☮❤
David as an after thought do you know of a good way to improve the front braking efficiency. I often find that I'm really pulling that brake lever but the combined weight of me and the bike + momento = long time to stop which is dodgy trying to slow down/stop when the lights go to amber, often it's safer to speed up which I don't recommend but better than locking the wheels. Kind regards RR
Sometimes it is safer to accelerate out of trouble. You can tell a lot by the feel of the front lever so if it’s not rock solid you may have an issue - air, old fluid with water in it or old rubber hoses. When did you last check the callipers? If the pistons aren’t free then it will have a big impact on how much the pads press against the disk. Similarly if your callipers are designed to float but don’t move freely you could be down you’ll have the same issue. Of course if you can lock the front wheel in dry weather then there is nothing wrong with the brakes 😀. Skäl. David
Good video; informative as usual. I'm looking for an LED headlight unit for my 600 bandit; I like the look of the one on Damage; where dd you find it. many thanks Paul.
Thanks Paul. The headlight was off eBay, don’t remember what it was other than it was the cheapest I could find. I’m planning on replacing it with something different. Skäl David
Why putting copper grease on copper coated ebc pads?🤔 And you should not put any kind of grease on brakes nor brake caliper you can just lubricate the pistons with DOT brake’s oil
Great question. The theory is that the grease on the back of the pads helps prevent squeal. It’s a smear and doesn’t migrate to the discs or pad surfaces. Yes, you can lubricate the pistons with brake fluid but with rubber grease doesn’t contaminate the brake fluid - if it does then your fluid seals are failing in the calliper which will lead to loss of brake fluid and fluid over your discs. The rubber grease helps with older callipers by helping to reduce corrosion in the seal grooves which leads to the pistons sticking giving poor braking. Skäl. David
Ha! We all start somewhere and you’d pay a lot of money to someone to refurbish them when nearly all they would do and could do us to replace seals, pistons, pins and pads. 👍. Skäl. David
@@MotoMirius I couldn't guess hence I asked, I tried to pause the video but couldn't make it out. I ask as I'm sure the last time I changed mine opinion was that GG worked best on the normal streets and roads, and that HH were a much harder pad more for race bikes at higher temperatures. Do u notice a difference in breaking distances between GG and HH?
I recall that was your opinion yes. I’ve never had an issue with the HH and they brake very well. I don’t think that you will notice much difference in everyday riding but the HH won’t fade as quickly. Really depends on your riding style. Skäl. David
David, any idea how I can get this stupid bolt that snapped on the grab rail without damaging the plastic around it. It's seriously tight. Check out @buck34_7’s Tweet: twitter.com/buck34_7/status/1099619264275861505?s=09 That's the only way I could think to send you a pic.
Your comment got held for review and I don't check that often. Stupid question but I'm assuming you've tried the usual suspects - penetrating oil, heat (if you can do it without hitting the plastic etc) If you take the bolts off on the other side, does the plastic slide off over this? Or would it if you could shorten it a bit?
@@MotoMirius I tried to bend it to help with gripping it and turning but it snapped again, in the end I got the grab rail off it, rear plastic body panel and ground it flat then drilled it out. Thanks anyway. 🤗
Be very very wary. Without physical proof those brake pistons are designed for that caliper , You have a motorcycle with a sabotaged brake system. Somebody went to great lengths to unbolt left front caliper and hose , unbolt wheel , undo brake disc , refit front wheel , refit the front right brake hose. Rebleed the system and think a job well done. Faaaaaaaaaaaaaaakkkk. Scrap the manky pistons , scrap hoses ,scrap banjo bolts , scrap banjo washers. Scrap master cylinder diaphragm.
Now they look awesome! How come Del removed the left side anyway?
Thanks Dave, I’m loving the new look. If I remember rightly Del was looking too reduce the risk of too much braking power with the front TKC tyre. Skäl David
Hey David love the flame discs very Ben Hur .Good job its a mk1, the mk2 had 12 pistons in all up front i thoroughly enjoyed polishing them , honest .
Ok brother take care get strong and hopefully see you on the road somewhere this year 👍🏻👍🏻☮❤
🤣🤣🤣 why does that not surprise me? I hope that you too are still on the mend nah yeah 👍👍 Skäl. David
David as an after thought do you know of a good way to improve the front braking efficiency. I often find that I'm really pulling that brake lever but the combined weight of me and the bike + momento = long time to stop which is dodgy trying to slow down/stop when the lights go to amber, often it's safer to speed up which I don't recommend but better than locking the wheels.
Kind regards RR
Sometimes it is safer to accelerate out of trouble. You can tell a lot by the feel of the front lever so if it’s not rock solid you may have an issue - air, old fluid with water in it or old rubber hoses. When did you last check the callipers? If the pistons aren’t free then it will have a big impact on how much the pads press against the disk. Similarly if your callipers are designed to float but don’t move freely you could be down you’ll have the same issue. Of course if you can lock the front wheel in dry weather then there is nothing wrong with the brakes 😀. Skäl. David
Good video; informative as usual. I'm looking for an LED headlight unit for my 600 bandit; I like the look of the one on Damage; where dd you find it. many thanks Paul.
Thanks Paul. The headlight was off eBay, don’t remember what it was other than it was the cheapest I could find. I’m planning on replacing it with something different. Skäl David
Why putting copper grease on copper coated ebc pads?🤔
And you should not put any kind of grease on brakes nor brake caliper you can just lubricate the pistons with DOT brake’s oil
Great question. The theory is that the grease on the back of the pads helps prevent squeal. It’s a smear and doesn’t migrate to the discs or pad surfaces.
Yes, you can lubricate the pistons with brake fluid but with rubber grease doesn’t contaminate the brake fluid - if it does then your fluid seals are failing in the calliper which will lead to loss of brake fluid and fluid over your discs. The rubber grease helps with older callipers by helping to reduce corrosion in the seal grooves which leads to the pistons sticking giving poor braking. Skäl. David
Rather you than me with those calipers etc, I wouldn't know where to start...and probably wouldn't ever trust my brakes again lol
Ha! We all start somewhere and you’d pay a lot of money to someone to refurbish them when nearly all they would do and could do us to replace seals, pistons, pins and pads. 👍. Skäl. David
@@MotoMirius I forgot to ask and couldn't see on the packaging if those brakes were HH or GG? I'm just curious 😉
As you can guess they are HH 😀 Skäl. David
@@MotoMirius I couldn't guess hence I asked, I tried to pause the video but couldn't make it out. I ask as I'm sure the last time I changed mine opinion was that GG worked best on the normal streets and roads, and that HH were a much harder pad more for race bikes at higher temperatures. Do u notice a difference in breaking distances between GG and HH?
I recall that was your opinion yes. I’ve never had an issue with the HH and they brake very well. I don’t think that you will notice much difference in everyday riding but the HH won’t fade as quickly. Really depends on your riding style. Skäl. David
David, any idea how I can get this stupid bolt that snapped on the grab rail without damaging the plastic around it. It's seriously tight.
Check out @buck34_7’s Tweet: twitter.com/buck34_7/status/1099619264275861505?s=09
That's the only way I could think to send you a pic.
Your comment got held for review and I don't check that often. Stupid question but I'm assuming you've tried the usual suspects - penetrating oil, heat (if you can do it without hitting the plastic etc) If you take the bolts off on the other side, does the plastic slide off over this? Or would it if you could shorten it a bit?
@@MotoMirius I tried to bend it to help with gripping it and turning but it snapped again, in the end I got the grab rail off it, rear plastic body panel and ground it flat then drilled it out. Thanks anyway. 🤗
Be very very wary. Without physical proof those brake pistons are designed for that caliper ,
You have a motorcycle with a sabotaged brake system. Somebody went to great lengths to unbolt left front caliper and hose , unbolt wheel , undo brake disc , refit front wheel , refit the front right brake hose. Rebleed the system and think a job well done. Faaaaaaaaaaaaaaakkkk. Scrap the manky pistons , scrap hoses ,scrap banjo bolts , scrap banjo washers. Scrap master cylinder diaphragm.
Lol. And back in the real world...