2010 - 2013 Mazda 3 Front Brakes Replacement
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- Опубліковано 15 жов 2024
- In this video I will be showing you how to install front Brakes on a 2010 - 2013 Mazda 3. Rear brakes will be in next weeks video and Bleeding your brakes will be in another video.
If the video was helpful or you enjoy the content, give it a "thumbs up" and consider subscribing. If There is anything you would like to see feel free to leave a comment.
Follow me on Facebook: / tdldiy
Equipment Used:
GoPro Hero 5
Canon Rebel 7Ti
Items Purchased:
Disc Brake wind back tool:
www.amazon.ca/...
Front Rotor:
www.rockauto.c...
Front Brake Pads:
www.rockauto.c...
Front Brake Hardware:
www.rockauto.c...
Links to other Video's:
2010 - 2013 Mazda 3 Rear Brake Replacement:
• 2010 - 2013 Mazda 3 Re...
Disclaimer:
TDL DIY assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user!
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #30 ДВА В ОДНОМ [Один человек]• Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/nrXy15orKhY/mqdefault.jpg)
Huge learning curve on this one. First side, about an hour. Second side, about 10 minutes. Thanks for the tutorial!
I am glad it was helpful. Thank you for watching and commenting. Its a pretty easy process once you get th hang of it. Its also an easy way to save some big money.
@@TDLDIY for sure. Mechanic quoted $350. This cost me $60 including a tool I had to buy
@@socrguy123 There you go $290.00 you got to keep in your pocket. Now a days any money you can keep in your pocket is a good day.
Good simple vid. Another tip, if not already mentioned, spread a bit of anti-seize grease on the hub before you put new rotor on. That way, next time you replace a rotor, no mallet or hammer will be required...it will come right off.
Yes, that is my normal practice now. I cant remember if it's in the video. Thanks for mentioning it, and Thank you for watching.
After cleaning the hub its a good idea to coat it with never-seize to prevent it rusting behind the rotor. That makes it easier to get off next time and it prevents the rust from pushing the rotor out of alignment.
You dont need brake lube on the brake pad holder, just clean it with a wire brush. The only part that gets lube is the slide pins.
Usually it's a good idea to put lube on the where the brake pad slide especially if it's an old car and the mounting bracket is full of rust. Seems this model doesn't use clips or anything so your pads could seize without any lube. It doesn't hurt anything so long as you don't glob it on needlessly.
Well done demonstration! I've changed a few of these in the past but I don't do it often enough to remember all the little nuances between jobs. Also, it's great to have a vehicle-specific demonstration, since everything looks exactly the same. Thanks for sharing. I'll be checking out your fluid-flush video.
Thank you, I did miss ine part that is with the compression of the caliper piston this are screw type and will require a tool to complete the job they are pretty cheap on Amazon.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
Thanks for the video. Me and my son will be changing his brakes this weekend.
That's a great bonding experience i hope all went well.
I’m stressing out worried about changing my breaks but it’s just 4 blots lmao thanks you made it really easy !
It can be a easy job but i can understand it be stressful because its a huge safety component. Once you done it a couple times you get more confident with it and realized it not hard at all. Plus saves you a ton of money since it a pricey job at a shop.
@@TDLDIY just Finished it all last night I didint even have to refer back to your video. You did a great shop explaining and saved me a lot of money lol
Great video and very helpful, thank you! Installing these on my 2010 Mazda 3i. At 5:12 you mention the brake fluid cylinder needing to be compressed. That part of the video was a little hard to see exactly how you did that. Is this part very difficult and what exactly does it accomplish? Can you see the fluid come out? Any clarity would be very helpful! Thanks again! “Never stop learning.” Love it. Keep it up! 💪🏻
put the grease on the caliper before installing it, and use onl a very thin layer! its also a good idea to put a very thin layer on the parts of the pads that contact the calipers--the backs of the pads and parts that slide on the calipers.
that new disc looks soooo new and with no scratches =D good job
Thank you.
Thanks, I am doing the same with my 11 yo son. Probably all 4 discs and pads this week.
That sounds awesome, its a great bonding time and learning experience. Its great you want to pass this knowledge down.
Thanks for the video,if I can suggest,next time use a torque wrench to screw the bracket bolts and the slider pins,it's a lot safer.
Torque specs are:
102 Nm for the bracket bolts
30 Nm fot the slider pins (Allen key)
Thanks, and yes thanks for providing the torque specs for myself and others very much appreciated.
@@TDLDIY no problem.
Cheers from Italy!
7 mm Allen key
This video saved me, had mind fart and couldn't remember how everything went back together 😆
Oldie but goodie
Cheers!
Great video, you explain things in a very easy to follow manner. Thx tons!
Thank you for the nice comment, and for watching. Consider subscribing if you haven't already. Have a great day.
Thumbs up for a helpful video and awesome Batman t-shirt. I'll be doing a brake change soon. Not my first but first time on my gen 2 speed3. Wanted to see if there's anything special that I should know about for this particular vehicle. Knowing I'll need that hex wrench is good info!
I'll have my apprentice helping me as well. Usually it's a good solid 10 minutes of questions followed almost immediately by "are you going to be done soon?"
What's cool though is a few days later he'll mention something very specific that I told him about what I was doing. I consider that a success.
Never stop learning is great advice for any age. It's kinda funny. Do a brake job or figure out how to do DIY repairs and some people think I'm a genius. But it's just like, have some confidence in yourself, seek the knowledge, be curious, follow the directions, and you'll find there's much you can do.
You will need a brake compressor tool kit since the brake pistons are a screw type vs a straight push.
That's nice to have your little helper keep them learning. You right about taking in new information and how other may see you as person that can fix anything. Thats the great thing about youtube you can search just about anything and hopefully someone has made a video on what your trying to do. So much information out there might as well try to take in as much as possible.
Thanks for watching. Hope your brake job goes smoothly.
Thanks for the video, bud. Very helpful. Admittedly I watched the rear brake video first, basically the same other than the pads. Thanks again, much appreciated.
Thanks for watching i am glad the video helped you. Thanks for leaving a comment as this can help other as well. Thanks again for watching and consider subscribing!
Thanks for the insightful vid as I will reference it when changing the brakes on my 2010 Mazda 3 hatchback. I see you purchased the rotors from RockAuto, which specific brand/type did you choose? Lots of options.. Thank you.
You forgot to show the hardest part of the job. How you put that spring back in. I reused the old one and took ages to get the damn thing in. I know there must be an easy way but I could not find it.
He showed it near the end of the video. All he did was put the bottom end of the spring into the bottom hole, have the bottom loop contact the bottom part of the caliper bracket, then have the top loop contact the top of the caliper bracket, then stretch the top end of the spring into the top hole. If it doesn't go in easily, then don't be afraid to tap it in with a wrench, pliers, or some small object to seat all the way in.
If you still can't do it, you might as well have a professional replace brakes instead of you
TDL DIY thank you for posting this video! I just changed my spark plugs with direction from your other video. I have a question about changing the brakes though: how can you tell if you need to replace your rotors as well as the brakes on the Mazda? Guy at my local shop said these rotors can't really be machined and more likely they'll need to be replaced. Obviously I want to be safe, but dropping $550 on pads, rotors, and labor is a bit much for me right now. What's your advice?
There is a certain thicknesses the rotor can go down what that is I am unsure. That being said when i do brakes I do pads, rotors, and normally brake flush. I tend to order my parts from rockauto and they are decent in price for pads and rotors. I think for the mazda was like 350 ish maybe 400 tops. that's shipped to canada which about 100.00 is shipping. so if your down in the states could be much cheaper. I wouldn't machine the rotor as it's almost the same cost as parts so it's worth just getting new rotors.
I hope this helps thanks for watching. If you have anymore questions I will do my best to answer them. Have a great day.
@@TDLDIY thanks for the advice! I'll let you know how it goes after I watch your two other brake videos!
Do I have to bleed my brakes even tho I’m just changing the rotors and brake pads ?
Very similar to motorcycle. Thank you!
Your welcome. The general idea of disc brakes are the same but there will be differences between vehicles.
Thanks for watching.
i bought all new pads and rotors for my 2010 mazda 3. It sure pays to know how to do it yourself. Only cost me about $195 using all bosch parts.
Good videos man. I’m pretty mechanically inclined myself, how long you say would it take to do all 4 brakes and rotors. My girl has a 2010 Mazda 3 lol
Thank you, I would say a couple hours 2 - 3 depends if you can get all four wheels off the ground and how much sanding rust off you want to do.
What lube do you use for the sliding pins?
Are the brakes the same for the Skyactiv models..?
Future reference, don't compress your calipers with the bleeder screw closed. After breaking the bleeder screw loose, keep it closed. Start applying pressure to the piston. Open the bleeder while you are applying pressure to the piston. Brake fluid will spray out. (I keep a bucket of floor dry handy for this). Close the bleeder just before the piston bottoms out to prevent it from pulling back air into the system. You still can and probably should bleed the system afterwards, but likely won't have any air if you do it properly.
This is a better method used to prevent damage to your ABS unit, while also flushing out old brake fluid. Just make sure you top off your brake reservoir before you move on to the next wheel end or press the brake pedal.
That sounds like a good tip. Thanks for the advice. I am sure others will also find this helpful.
Are you a mechanic or a hobbyist?
@@TDLDIY diesel mechanic :)
I love videos like this for a quick reference of the set up before helping a friend with their car. Thank you for sharing!
@@Kate-wk4cj Hey that's awesome, Thanks for the support. I do the same thing with cars or processes I am unfamiliar with to help friends / family out.
I was able to compress the pistons in my Mazda3 without loosening the bleeder bolt. I was actually gonna loosen that bolt but I realized that I didn't have new brake fluid to use my one person bleeder. I didn't have time to run to the store to buy brake fluid, and I work 10 hr shifts in Amazon while attending college so my free time is severely limited. Plus, it was over 100 degrees outside on my driveway.
Either way, I never had any ABS issues or an ABS light come on when I compressed it without opening the bleeder valve. Maybe next time I replace brakes on a colder day, I'll loosen that bolt.
No need to open the bleeder screw.
If you do that,you can make air go inside the brakes circuit.
Just open the brakes oil reservoir cap,and keep an eye on the level,if it exceed maximum,aspirate it with a syringe.
Keep the level to maximum,as it will decrease a little,on the first 100/200 miles,due to brake pad settlement,and than it will decrease following the brake pads wear.
ThT video was superb. One question. The last pin u put on both of mine got lost. Ive been driving without them,what do I call it n hiw can I get two new ones.plz
I wouldnt recommend driving missing one of the pins, But they are called "Slide pins" or "caliber slide pins" you should be able to pick them up fairly cheap normally comes in a set.
Thank you bro.respect
no problem anytime. if you haven't already consider subscribing.
Good stuff. Thank you.
Your welcome. Thanks for watching!
Legend. Thanks, man. Appreciate the help during a frigid December brake change.
Your Welcome I am glad you found it useful.
Thanks for watching.
thank you for the video
may i ask how long does each side take, i'm a beginner and never done it before
Thanks for watching and supporting my channel. So for how long it takes to install new brake disc and pads I would give yourself about 1 hour per a total of 4 hours now you may be able to do it quicker. but I think that's a good start estimate. Now that time doesn't include bleeding your brakes.
Good luck. let me know how it goes and you can let everyone know how long it will take a beginner.
TDL DIY thank you for the quick response
👍
@@tarekal-abboud1501 hey no problem I try to response as quickly as possible.
certified franz j presents moment
Do you have to bleed your brakes even if you are just putting new pads on
No, you dont. But i typically do pads rotors and brake fluid flush all at the same time. This way i know everything is good to go. Really its not much more money. The disc is the most expensive part.
Allen key size please
Helped me so much thanks!
Great help thank you!
Your welcome, Thanks for watching and glad it helped you out. Consider subscribing.
Wonderful 🎉
I would use a hex socket. Had a bolt and the hex key was too short not enough leverage. New rotors are debatable. Usually you can go thru 2 sets of pads before you need to replace rotors.
Thanks for the good points, i will use the hex socket next time. I always do new rotors as they arent very much and depends on the shape of the rotor grooving, wrapping etc.
Thanks for your comment all very good points for myself and others reading the comment.
Can I just use a c clamp to compress the brakes without buying the special tool?
no you cant. you will need to buy it buy you can get it on Amazon for about 35.00 Canadian. www.amazon.ca/dp/B019XLTC00?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I am going to try a pry bar while it is still attached to the rotor. I am a real cheap-o. I can't afford new tools on a teacher salary.
@@diegudr problem with that it's not a straight cylinder so it wont compress with a c clamp or force. its basically a threaded cycling it will need to be screwed with a bit of compression to go back in.
I have seen people not use a tool either make there own or tools they have to do it. not always recommended. but I hope this might help is some.way for you to figure it out. if your in the states I have heard of renting tool for O'Reilly's and other places like that.
@@TDLDIY Oh yeah come to think of it, some parts stores let you borrow tools (youbasically buy it with a credit card and they credit you back when you return it) I am going to call around and try that. Might as well do this right if I am going to all the effort. Thanks, I somehow forgot about that policy (brain fart).
@@diegudr Glad to help, Thanks for watching. consider subscribing.
I did what is the video and when the car goes 50 miles the wheel moves a lot and before changing the discs not . What would be the problem ? “Plis “
did you tighten all the bolts down properly? did you torque your wheels down? if that doesnt fix it then you would have to go throw and redo everything to ensure everything is ok. I would do that to both front wheels and brakes. or where they are affected. Did you replace the rotors and brake pads?
if you need seek professional help. If your not comfortable doing the work yourself. Do the work at your own risk.
If the brake fluid reservoir overflows after compressing the brake piston you have added too much brake fluid before hand.
Yes and No. yes your right but if your pads are wearing down your brake fluid could show it's getting low and if you toped it off to the full line and then compress the brake piston it will over flow. Plus it can over flow as well because you will compress the brake piston more then the set position for the piston.
Sorry, but you should never have to add brake fluid to the system at all, unless you've opened the system up for service. It's an enclosed pressurised system and if the system is low and it's not due to pad wear you have a leak in the system somewhere. And if the system is in fact low due to a leak all ABS systems have some form warning light. Just passing this info onto you, otherwise good tutorial 👍
@@rkratz2924 Hey that's good information. I am sure someone will find this very helpful. Thanks for watching.
Great Job bud!
Thank you.
What’s that alien key size? Gonna have to go to the store just for that and I have to buy five of them just so I get it right
alien 🤣🤣🤣
7 mm Allen Key
What size Allen key
If I don't have a spring is that dangerous or not
Yes it could be dangerous as its part of the brake system. I would order and or go to your local parts store to get the pieces your missing.
Just drive another vechicle as its a safety concern.
great video!
Thank you
No grease on the slides bolts to ensure a free movement of the caliper????
Always put grease on the slide bolts, if i remember i do it once a year to ensure proper lubrication and they don't seize up.
Thanks helpful
Your welcome, I am glad i was able to help.
Can I compress it with a regular clamp?
No you cannot. Its a screw type compression each side is opposite.
Eww Alan keys, it shouldn't overflow when pushing fluid back through push the piston slowly crack the cap
After 4 brakes it might be necessary though.
@I hate Google Plus no it shouldn't over flow thats people looking at their fluid level seeing it down and keep adding it when it's actually the pads are down put new pads on fluid level will come back to almost max if not rite on. Watching fluid Is one way to keep an eye on how far the pads are worn but don't rely souly on that because ya may have a leak in a line.
Those rotors look really annoying to take off 😂
actually no not really was pretty straight forward.
This new generation just don't want to learn anything they are not like us i have 2 sons i try to teach them but i don't seem to care about it since i do all the work in their cars but one day i will be gone and then they have to pay for someone to do it and that's a shame!!!
and they'll watch how to do it on UA-cam