2014 MAZDA 3 2.5L- REPLACING FRONT BRAKE PADS & ROTORS - MADE IN JAPAN - Easy DIY
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- Опубліковано 31 жов 2022
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We got the brake pads and rotors at our local O'reilly Auto Parts Store.
Just a quick video showing how to replace the front brake pads & Brake Rotors on a 2014 Mazda 3 2.5L Japan Built. You will need to check your vin number to determine if your vehicle is built in Mexico or not. Thankfully our local O'reilly Auto Parts Store was able to look it up for us and determine which parts we needed.
Tools needed:
A large screwdriver or prybar
13 mm Wrench or socket with ratchet and/or breaker bar
17 mm socket or wrench with breaker bar or impact wrench
brake caliper grease
wire brush or drill with wire brush attachment (wear safety glasses)
anti-seize
Torque Wrench
Torque specs I found online:
Caliper slide pin bolts 20-22 ft lbs
Caliper Support Bracket bolts 68-81 ft lbs.
I also did the rear brake pads & rotors on this same vehicle. Here's a link to that video if you need it: • 2014 MAZDA 3 2.5L HOW ...
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-Dan the Fix it Man
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'All I Am' by Dyalla
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nice video. Really appreciate how you don't edit the video to take out the "challenging" parts! Thank you!
Garage did front brakes. Left split and rusted slider pins insitu. Reused old hardware. Used no anti seize. Didnt use wire bush any where.
Had to re do the whole thing myself.😂
Very thorough. The rubbers split on my pins. Gonna clean out the holes the pins slide in. They are really dirty.
Thank you so much for these video I’ve just changed my 2015 Mazda 3 and saved $250 on labour and the breaking is so much better
Great video. I’m going to give mine a go on Saturday. I actually really appreciated seeing the trouble you had getting the pads into the clips. Great to see the potential challenges and how to work through them.
Really great video!
Thx! Great vid. For some reason the stock Mazda hardware for the front is a 2 part shim. An inner anti-vibration shim goes on the inside. It seems to keep things quiet longer and you can grab them at the dealership for a little over $10. Has a packet of grease too.
Thank you so much for this video, it was very helpful.
I did this job on a good friends car today, the Japanese made.
While doing the repair I found out two helpful things. If only the bottom 13mm screw is removed and the top one only loosen, the top screw can be used as a hinge to raise the metal casing up and out of the way, it leaves plenty of space for the job.
One of the old pads can be used to compress the piston. Place the old pad against the piston, there is a nudge on the pad that can be also inserted on the casing, use a large screw driver inserted in the casing to push against the pad to easily compress the piston. I hope this can be of help.
Props for the tonya harding shout out.
excellent video. Yeah inserting the break pads is very very hard. Possibly the pads fit too tight. Hope not to cause overheated calipers. There is no easier solution to sliding the pads in the brackets. Its just frekin hard man
Really good.
Ive learned that if your new brake pads are not seating in easily, do not force it or fight it in. They can definitely be too tight, which will cause rhe lad to stay pushed against the rotor even when you're not applying the brakes while driving. Then you brakes overheat and burn up all the lube in the caliber pins, and damages the capiler as well. Instead, take a dremel tool to the spot on the pad base that is causing it to stick. Takes 30 seconds. After that it will slide in like butter. These pads are made in China with poor quality control most times.
Tonya Harding-- killing me matey 😂
She cut the guys di c k off??
The brake pad clips are different on these cars. Be mindful which came from the top and from the bottom. The clips with the longer front goes on top if I remember correctly. Also, don't mix up the slide pins. The one with the rubber bushing goes on the bottom.
Thanks for the info!
@@DantheFixitMan whats the torque specs on tires on a 2015mazda 3
tq to 90*
Any chance you could show me the jack point on the frame that you use!? Im unsure where to jack it up
Interesting
Dude had the same prob getting the pads on the rear carrier. Totally ridiculous.
9:49 I spy a VGG enjoyer
8:51 mine isn’t moving? What does that mean
That means your slide pin is stuck. You might be able to free it up with some penetrating oil and then clean out the opening really well. If you can't free the stuck slide pin, you will probably need to replace the caliper bracket and get new slide pins. Best of luck to you!
@@DantheFixitMan thank you I’m gonna need it.
The slide comes out, I cleaned it and lubed it but it’s just stiff and doesn’t bounce as the one next to it. It’s hard to pull up and down
Why not screwing the disc back into place before putting the caliper back?