How to Replace Rear Brakes 06-13 Mazda 3
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- Опубліковано 27 вер 2018
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1A Auto shows you how to repair, install, fix, change or replace your own worn, squeaky, fading old brakes. This video is applicable to the 06, 07, 08, 09, 10, 11, 12, 13 Mazda 3
This process should be similar on the following vehicles:
2004 Mazda 3
2005 Mazda 3
2006 Mazda 3
2007 Mazda 3
2008 Mazda 3
2009 Mazda 3
🔧 List of tools used:
• Pry Bar 1aau.to/orb/1AXAA00020
• 10mm Wrench 1aau.to/osd/1AXAA00010
• 14mm Wrench 1aau.to/osd/1AXAA00010
• 10mm Socket 1aau.to/oVP/1AXAA00017
• 21mm Socket 1aau.to/ozy/1AXAA00043
• Needle nose pliers 1aau.to/oj8/1AXAA00051
• Needle nose pliers 1aau.to/oj8/1AXAA00052
• 1/2 Inch Breaker Bar 1aau.to/ogM/1AXAA00078
• Ratchet 1aau.to/oabx/1AXAA00016
• Socket Extensions 1aau.to/o5y/1AXAA00015
• Torque Wrench 1aau.to/oIv/1AXAA00044
• Anti-Seize Grease
• Brake Parts Cleaner
• 7mm Allen Wrench 1aau.to/oaH/1AXAA00007
• Wire Brush 1aau.to/ogH/1AXAA00079
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While 1A Auto strives to make the information provided in this video as accurate as possible, it makes no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness or applicability of the content. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. 1A Auto is not responsible or liable for any loss damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this video. - Авто та транспорт
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Possibly the clearest, simplest, straight-to-the-pointyest how-to auto repair video ever made.
If you're having trouble getting the piston back in, pull up and down on the emergency brake a couple times. Did the trick.
17:27 most relatable part of the video 😅
haha I heard that too
I used this video to replace rear pads on my 08 Mazda 3 today. Passenger rear went completely as planned. 20 minutes, and I'm done. But then the drivers rear decided to be a pain. After removing the two bolts and the spring, the caliper was tight and stuck to the pads. Those pads were super worn, all the way down to the metal. I pried it off, but the problem was that the caliper piston was not releasing at all. Could not get the caliper piston to retract back like you showed (and like my other one did). 3 hours later after I got a friend over to help, we finally managed to get the piston back retracted. Unfortunately then we had introduced so much air into the lines from trying to work with the piston that we had to spend quite a while bleeding the air back out.
All in all, your video was great. Unfortunately, I had that issue with the piston.
Caliper was probably seized. Good you got it free'd up but i would count on replacing the calipers with your next brake job
I swear, no other videos mention the bleeder screws and then doing gravity bleeds. SO glad I watched this.
+forbro8301 Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
You dont need it. If you dont use the bleeder, you dont introduce air into the system so there's no need to gravity bleed, just be sure to pump up the brakes to push out the caliper piston
Very detail instruction. Thank you so much. Please continue to keep this video in UA-cam for future use.
Little tip for all you diy garage mechanics if you take a lug nut and screw it on one of the studs then it’ll keep the rotor from wanting to wiggle around while doing your brake job
Yes but the loose disc does not really cause that much of an issue.
Very good explanation!
I like when you got problems but only to see how i can handle it on my own.
Helpful video-- thanks! I wasn't able to get the piston all of the way in using needle nose pliers, so I rented the piston compression tool from an auto parts store, and it did the trick.
I believe you turned it clockwise
Nice that you mentioned the torque specs and your camera angles are nice and clear
Thanks for the feedback! +eddie gee
Thanks for the tips here. I did this job today on my 2010 Mazda 3 S. Had a beast of a time getting the pistons back in. I alternated twisting it with needle-nose like you did, and the old faithful monster C-clamp squeeze. It wasn't smooth or easy but I got 'em back in. Thanks for the bleeding explanation as well.
Great instructional video. Good camera action and the mechanic/technician was very good. Thanks for the video.
17:32 Hahahahaha you are the best Sue!
THE best video I’ve seen on this subject. A lot of videos leave out some important steps! Thanks!
A very complete video. I have never heard of breaking into the brake fluid system when replacing pads. The pistons push back without that and push the fluid back up to the master cylinder. No need to refill or risk introducing air into the system. Also that much anti seize grease on the face of the hub will be thrown on to the rotor at high speed causing a loss in braking efficiency and ruining the disc pads you have just replaced.
+Ronald Harrison Thanks for the feedback! We'll pass this info along to our production team.
Just pushing pads back without loosening the bleeder screw is always the way I do it.. hasn't failed me yet
Ended up just stripping my bleeder screw. From other videos, they dont touch tge bleeder screw
Very good video.. personally I dont touch the bleeder for pad/rotor change... only if I'm changing calipers.. but a clear and well done video !
Gotta do my niece's car brakes and this was very useful. Thanks Sue!
This Gal is GREAT! I truly admire Her, and her method of changing the breaks! She's a very smart girl!
No mention about how to "bed in" the pads and the rotors. Should you use the oft-recommended 30 stops from 30mph to 5mph, w/ 30 secs between stops? Is that a solid way to properly bed in the pads & rotors? Thanks.
That caliper spring was tough. Nice work!
Great video. Haven't seen many videos for the brakes on a Mazda3 yet, but I'm feeling that this will be the only one I will need.
Does it matter if you put the brake pad with the clip on top on the outer side of the rotor (Opposite what was shown)? I don't understand why one side only has a clip and the other pad doesn't.
Is it relevent for all variant of mazda 3 made between 2006 and 2013? In my case I have a mazda 3 sport gx 5
Perfect DIY video. Thanks!
front & rear caliper guide pins are the same size (7mm hex head)?
Those springs are the worst part of the job, I can completely relate at 17:33
Put one end into the hole, place flat sides against the bracket, hold the remaining end with pliers and direct it into the hole cone. Tap on it with pliers. Took me 15 sec today.
If you also have trouble getting the caliper to fully retract as I did - it would only turn about half way. I tried a bunch of stuff and then I pulled the emergency brake a couple of times. This then allowed me to turn the calipers back in the rest of the way. Sample size 2...
yeah im no mechanic but i did sleep in marriot and im also utube certified and i have never broke open bleeder to push back or turn in piston on caliper . just open up master cap and put rag over it and do it slow . Am i missing something ? worse thing in my opinion is to open up break fluid lines unless you have to ?
Hi Sue,
Good clear informative instruction...thanks! One observation though, I note there is no disassembly of the E brake, Does that not even need attention in rear pad replacement?
Cheers K
very thorough and helpful.
Hey guys I changed my front breaks today and I’m not sure if I did it right. There on but I pressed the pedal with the bleeder open. What can I do to fix this
The mazda 2011 doesn't have the E brake connected to the rotor? so I can safely remove it while the brake is on?
Do you have to loosen the bleeder screw to press this piston back in or can I just remove cap off the master?
+CerebralAssassin1977 Thank you for your inquiry! You should be able to just remove the cap off the master. Please let us know if you have any further questions, thank you!
Thanks Sue. You saved the day
you don't need to hold the pedal down when opening the bleeding valve? I just tried your method and the pedal is still going half way down
I have try to push back the piston caliper by turning it clockwise at leat 20 turns but the piston do not push back......any idea ? I also have open the valve so the brake fluid could drop and I have remove the E brake wire....
Nice job 👍🏻
You are a damn good teacher/mechanic!
Where in the US is this car from. I have never seen so much corrosion on backing plates and trailing arms on such a young car (and I live right on the coast). Do they salt the roads where this car lives?
8:25 when you screw piston in is this just to make compression more easier and to reduce risk of piston stuck or there is some actual thread inside and it is impossible to compress piston without simultaneous rotation?
+ILYA L Thanks for the tip!
There is a both a nut and a spring inside. You have to both turn the nut and push against the spring. See more detailed reply above.
What kind of clocks are u using?
One important step is missed. You want to make sure that parking brake actuator is all the way to the rear position. And if it is not - you need to push it there. And if the cable prevents it, you need to loosen the nut under cup-holder in center console to push it there. Otherwise you may end-up with a weak parking brake. In this case, last step will be tightening this nut till brake holds the car on incline and handle travels approximately 60-80 % of the way.
And for bleeding, I use a piece of clear tubing hung vertically. It allows to collect fluid, prevent air suck-in and you can tell how clean is the fluid. And you can open bleeder fully.
There is no need to open a bleeder. Generally the handbrake cable slackens with age not tightens. Unless it is seized in which case needs replacing.
@@mrofnocnon
The mazda 2011 doesn't have the E brake connected to the rotor like some cars? so I can safely remove it while the e brake is on? Im replacing them on jack stands.
Odd that on my Mazda those caliper pin rubber bushings were in poor order. So bad that on one of them there was zero chance of getting the pin back through. And the others were pretty sticky. $23 cdn for new bushings, I think, is worth it.
I'm just watching this video after having inspected and re-lubing my rear brakes. I'm used to using a C clamp with a wood piece to push the caliper piston back. I had a difficult time pushing it back and used a cheater bar to assist with pushing the piston back. It took a lot of force but i was able to get it back. After seeing the video and that the piston must be turned back I'm wondering if i permanently damaged the calipers? I'm thinking I should replace them. Is the piston set in a threaded guide or is a spring mechanism that drives the need to turn it while pushing it back? If it's threaded I'm thinking I stripped it out.
i think turning just helps un seize it, what was your final verdict?
Was the cap to your master cylinder open? There are no threads to the piston… but pushing it back without there being a way for air to escape would increase pressure in the entire system
There is a nut behind the piston. It rides on the thread which the parking brake turns to wind the nut against the inner pad toward the disk and apply the parking brake. When pad wear occurs, a spring in the piston assembly pushes this nut toward the piston causing the nut to unwind on the thread, thereby adjusting for the slack. A one-way clutch stops it winding back when hydraulic pressure is withdrawn. But you can wind it back by rotating the piston, which you have to do to push the piston back-in. If you use a lot of force realise you are trying to force a nut to unwind through pressure rather than rotation., like using a hammer rather than a wrench to turn a nut.
do you have to turn the rear caliper you cant just push it in??
I love her accent, great video
I’m doing my back brakes and rotor for the first time, do I need to bleed each caliper or can I do both bakes at the same time and just bleed the one side? Maybe this is a stupid question haha. Mechanic quoted my $580 for just back brakes and rotors. 🤯
My piston is spinning but it’s not compressing back into the caliper. It’s pretty much out all the way, again still spinning but not going back down.
There's an old mechanic saying, labor is $X, and 2X that to watch. Could maybe chalk it up to having the camera on but the pads were installed backwards. And when cleaning the caliper bracket grooves you need to get to bare metal and lubricate it. Any surface rust left on will build up again quickly. I prefer a knotted wire wheel, a brush ain't gonna cut it.
Thanks for your information and I will use that to help friend of my son because she doesn’t have money for the brakes repair, I will provide parts and my time to help her.
Great video 1a Auto!
I tend to tell people to you 6 point closed ends or line wrenches to refrain from stripping the soft bleeder
Straight and to the point, great information. This is exactly what I searched for and is everything I need to know. You rock!
That backing plate is waaaaay worse than mine . . . thank you . . . I love you !
Couldn't retract the piston, turned it clockwise while pushing, used the parking brake - de nada.
Remounted the whole assembly minus the disc repated everything with more gusto - same,
and just before I gave up I turned it anti clockwise - damn thing nearly came right out in almost no turns at all & after which it screwed straight back in like there was never any problem to begin with (!?)
a win's a win I guess
soooooooo....in a bit of a pickle....i did everything the video said, but i have no pressure on my brake pedal, i've bled them and replaced fluid...do i need to do the fronts?
When putting brakes back together I always hand tighten a lug on the stud after I put rotor on to hold it in place.
+CerebralAssassin1977 Thanks for checking us out!
@1AAuto after replacing my rear brake pads on my 2013 Mazda 3, following your video, I am getting a rattling sound from my right rear brakes. What did I do wrong, and how do I fix it?
+DisneyHouseDad We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Great video... well made great visibility, clear explanations...I would also suggest putting a little ant-seize on the pins.
Thank you for the great reply. We love to empower our customers by showing you how-to perform your own auto repairs while installing our high quality auto parts. Have a great day! 1aauto.com +David Ahmad
No, only silicone on the slide pins. Anti-seize is not lubricant.
"loosen the lugnuts with the weight of the car on the tire"
*spins tire because the car is already on the lift*
She doesn't even have the 'weight of the vehicle on the tire'...the tire rotated a bit.
But for sure, get most of the weight off to help loosen lugnuts.
At 4:00 when them clips end break into the caliber do i need to replace the caliber?
+80s Honda dirtbike 1 Thank you for your question. Since that spring is necessary to press on the brake pads, if you can't get the old spring out due to breaking off you would need to replace the caliper.
@@1AAuto thx alot , ya i figured that but wanted to make sure
Hello. Do you have video on how to remove/replace the rear brake piston and how to replace new rubber boot/dust seal. I hope you can read this. Thank you...😊🙏
+VlackSpyder We do not have a video for this repair right now, but we'll keep this request in mind for a future video! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
The only question that I have is, where did the owner of the mazda got the mud guards????
Holy Rust!!!
Haha that's not bad at all 😂😂😂
Awesome
The corrosion on those caliper pistons would have me worried. I own 4 Mazdas, I do all my own brake jobs and I've replaced a lot of failed calipers. When I do Brake jobs now more often than not I just replace the calipers, too if I have any uncertainty about how long they'll last. There's nothing worse than replacing rotors and pads only to have the caliper seize up a few thousand miles later, destroying everything. Like she says, try to do it right the first time. Because of all of this what I also do now with all my Mazda brake jobs is completely flush out the brake fluid and replace with new. I turkey baster the reservoir and add new, then open the bleeders and pump out all the old fluid and continue to add new. I think in many cases the calipers lock up because of old corroded and useless brake fluid sitting in there. Can't hurt to flush them out real good. And cleaning and re greasing everything that can be cleaned and re greased is a must. I also (lightly!) grease the caliper piston and the bracket surfaces where the pad ears make contact. Her use of silicone paste is interesting. I'm going to switch to that for the slider pins from now on.
+Rob Morris Thanks for the feedback!
Why no brake lube on the ears?
I ordered a front and rear brake kit from 1A auto. The rear brake pads I received in the kit did not have the "cooling line" cut in the middle of the pad or the chamfer cuts at the ends of the pads. They were just one flat piece of pad. But even the pictures on the website 1A auto site showed these features on the pad. Why didn't I receive those pads?
Overall good video but a few things I noticed:
1. As eddie gee mentioned, you rotated the piston clockwise but state in the video to go counter-clockwise.
(Surprised you don't use the correct tool for pressing the piston in and offer it on 1A auto site).
2. When installing the pads, didn't clean the friction material.
3. Didn't specify in the pad with the anti-rattle goes inner/outer.
4. Also mentioned below, take the time to make sure the parking brake mechanism is working properly (adjust accordingly).
+Eduardo Garcia Thanks for the feedback!
What will happen if you lose your anti rattle hardware when driving?
your car will explode
Need to adjust the e brake push pin. Seems like many technicians miss this step.
+LoYee Lawrence Leung Thanks for checking us out and your feedback!
Hola buenas tardes!! Quisiera comprar productos de A1 autos !! Pero quiero saber si hacen envíos a Perú!! Porfavor necesito información!!!
+Cristhiam Alonso Rosales Eyzaguirre Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1AAuto.com
It would be a good idea to fully remove the bleeder screw, clean the thread et lubricate it.
Also before pushing the piston back, it would be good to clean the rust on the surface that touches against the pad.
@ 14:38, you should add some grease on the caliper slots to make the pad move freely and to prevent rust.
Adding some grease to both clip ends would help to prevent rust next time.
I do the same as you explained for grease the slide points in the cradle , but I know what she means by grease collects dust and can cause problems too. Two Schools of
thought
This is a pretty quick removal and bolt on job that you could do in about 30 minutes per side...if you didn’t have to worry about all that rust from the undercarriage of that vehicle ! You are going to spend all day brushing, grinding, sanding, wiping and painting to get rid of all that cancer ! If you just put the rotor back on without restoring any of that frame work I assume you don’t plan on keeping that car very long. Looks like a car that comes from up north.
+bfitnessjoe Thanks for checking us out. 1aauto.com
Never..undo bleeder screws on an older car...break the screw and you have to replace the caliper...
Should have used a brake piston compressor to close the piston..
@@joecaruana4968 I actually do same thing she did on this model. Only I partially screw pin from the bottom of caliper into top of bracket. This way it styays up and I can use both hands. Simple
All day brushing? Who wants to do this? Get drill bits with wire brushes, senders and grinders. I make a quick work of it in no time. 5 min per side max. Also, if you don't replace rotor make sure to grind off rust lip. With power tools it doesn't take long
Its a different reality up here in the salt lands xD just give in to the rust. Hey, it helps me save money on locktite!! It's natures thread-locker
17:27, i feel your pain lol😂😂😂
I used your video to TRY to replace my calipers. There's no way in hell you screwed the piston back in that easily with needle nose pliers without pressure. It would have been NICE to know there is a tool you can RENT specifically for this job instead of fighting it trying to get it compressed and twisted in. Your shop probably even HAS THEMMMMM. and it turns CLOCKWISE. Not counterclockwise. If you turn it COUNTERCLOCKWISE it comes out and is not easy to get back in. K THANKS.
Ok Karen
There is a caliber retraction tool, make sure you ask for one specific to Mazda, they are usually pretty cheap and well worth it
You probably don't need this information anymore but AutoZone rents the kit for the job. Or you can buy it from Amazon for 20 something. Also no need to open the bleeder valve like she did. Idk why she messed with that and got air in the line.
Also should open the cap on master brake cylinder.
17:31 *whispers you SOAB” 😂😂
Isnt the brake pad supposed to clip on the piston? If i just slide that in, wont it cause noise while driving?
no, the old pads with the wire on them are not made anymore when you pump the brake pedal it will push the piston out against the pads, and the carrier keeps them in place as well.
The first time you mash on your brakes, the piston will be repositioned to the pad. Most places just give the brakes a good press after they do this repair.
Not the one she installed. It doesn't have pins for the piston
The inner pad should have a protrusion which engages with a detent on the piston. This stops the piston from revolving during operation which could affect the parking brake adjustment for pad wear causing the parking brake to bind.
8:33 funniest counter clockwise to me
Reverse side.
Really liked the video but there are a lot of Madza 3 owners with parking brake problems after doing a rear pad change, including me. First change at 90k screw in pistons all goes well but the parking brake doesn't work, was working fine before, tightening the cable at the interior adjustment nut did nothing , last resort put on new calipers and all was fine. Today the car failed inspection for rear pads, left side goes smooth, used needle nose, bleeder open, and it screwed right in ez, when and seated the pads, then check parking brake nothing, right side had a seized caliper, installed a new one and after tightening the interior PB got that one to work, left side still not working. What the heck is going on, I have done a lot of brake work over the years a must know what I am doing wrong, starting to think I need to replace the calipers everything the pads are changed, please, please help me and all the others like me. Thank you.
17:27 BEST PART
I like the “son of a bitch” comment at 17:28 trying to get that anti rattle clip on.
Isn't silicone paste a sealant ???
Torque wrench is good, far too many bubba’s garage do not use torque wrench, results in over and under tightening.
Ma i crazy or isnt there suppose to be a clip where the pads rest???
where does the funky spray paint job come ine. and the beeder scew. umm ya you need to still put the caliper piston back. ugh... patt2...
turn clockwise to rotate the piston back in, pretty simply..
+rueocts 5 hearts rc Thanks for the tip!
And push like hell!
The problem with those type of swivel sockets is too much movement, they tend to strip bolts. You could see all the play when bolts were being turned. That over time will round off the bolts. Not practical here.
8:30 didn't she say turn it counterclockwise than she turned it clockwise
17:26 I know the struggle lol…
What a PIA those anti rattle clips are. One fell out after a few days and the other was so corroded it had to be broken off and a new hole drilled. Tired of screwing with them, so used JB Weld to around the holes. Probably have to replace calipers next brake job cause clips are permanent. In the mean time, they aren't going to fall out. Actually the clips made this my least favorite brake job.
+58gennaro Thanks for the feedback!
great video, very informative, clear, and well described, but why don't you use the proper tool the rewind the brake cylinder, and say "if you have a pair of needle nose, you can use those too"? if that cylinder is a little seized, pliers'll never do it. 17:27 lmao actual mechanic moment
Haha I heard that at 17:33 😂
Snuwfer D hah I know right? I like how her videos show how things would be done at home :P
So I just bought a rear only ceramic brake kit for a Mazda 3 after watching this video...and it was $64. Just seems low, and am just curious to the quality of product I may have bought? Anyone have any feedback on the product?
+Matt Thank you for your order! We'd love to hear about your experience. Here's a link to leave us a review on Google: goo.gl/i5JFNY
I did this, and now the brakes are dragging and the car wont move...
The 7mm allen / hex key is not included in the Allen set you linked in the description FYI. Otherwise very useful video! I'd be lost without you...
Didn't show how to push the pressure cylinder down, thanks alot
8:40 bro did you watch the entire video?
I wish she was my mechanic!!!!!