I'm not a mechanic, but I would say since you have the big piece of equipment, it's worth the extra $1500 to rebuild. So you've got $3,000 invested....not too shabby for what you'd end up having. Found myself giggling out loud at a lot of your content - especially the "love and passion" scene. Really enjoy your vids!
Your rings are probably stuck on #2 & #3 piston. White smoke from valve cover is blowby from stuck or broken rings. Pull the engine put new rings in ball hone the cylinders just a little and she will run. Also make sure your injectors are spraying good. Don't give up yet.
Before you rebuild, soak the pistons in Barryman B-12 to free the rings. B-12 is a regular tool used by Vice Grip Garage for that purpose. Might as well also lap the valves to make sure you have the best seal.
witch one you referring to. most listings for b12 is a fuel system cleaner. or an oil change additive or a parts cleaner, for years to fre up rings an stuff i use a 50/50 mix of fuel oil and ATF
put a little 2 stroke oil into the cylinder through the glow plug port and turn it over under compression and a little ether. once combustion starts it should fee the rings up and give a little better pressures.
This is the next thing you should try before any kind of tear down. Oil in the cylinder will help you build some compression and might get it to start.
I have a case 1835c that I COMPLETELY rebuilt and it’s a AWESOME machine regardless of what people say about the engine it’s one of the greatest engines produced. I also built a rotary brush motor and a 4 way dozer blade a hydraulic front loader type cement mixer presently being built and a post hole digger in the works. DON’T SCRAP IT. You’ll kick yourself in the end.
It’s a pity you didn’t relap the valves while you had the head out and we’re waiting for a head gasket, could have really helped for your compression, also I’d check injectors also as they we’re probably sitting in water for a good period mightn’t be spraying correctly
I say soak the cylinders with marvel mystery oil or atf fluid for a while. Then try to start. If you get it going, the cylinders usually come back, not 100%, but good enough. Adding the oil will help with compression and hopefully get it to pop off. Also try All States Ag Parts they usually have tons of parts for older Case engines and very reasonable. Came across your channel and instantly sub, your work and humor is awsome. Keep up the work man and hope we see you back on this here soon.
Also. Make sure you have a small piece of plywood with a chunk of rubber on it. Make sure the intake tube is open and accessible. That way if she try’s to run away on you when it DOES start you are ready to cover the intake. Don’t give up on it man. She will go. Also you can leave it sitting for a while with straight rust eliminator in it. That may free the rings up. If you rebuild it it’s not hard. I bet it only needs a home and a set of piston rings. And even if you can’t get the case ones. You can go to a “build your own ring pack” company and just tell them the sizes. Dooooont give up!!
I went through the very same thing. Had mechanic after mechanic look at it and all were stumped. Make sure the hydro aux lever is in the center. It's the pedal looking thing down by your left leg/foot. Make sure it's centered. If pressed either direction - its under major load and will not fire for anything in the world.
No such thing as a "loss", I call it a valuable" learn". I would love to see this old beast run but I also understand budget. Add one more to your sub list, I'm looking forward to future videos.
Keep at it. A gas engine only needs about 80 psi to run and once it's starts to pop the rings will free up and it will run. I had a perkins last year do the same thing but it started to run on one cylinder then it took off.
You do understand a diesel is compression based right, no spark plugs. If maybe one of the cylinders was down 50 psi, it might run, but when 2 are way lower it will not kick off
Bud you have no idea just how close you are to getting it running! I'd try a bit of ether (starting fluid) to get it started(just a quick burst into the intake) and hopefully, those rings will start freeing up. I would try that before completely pulling out/tearing down the engine.
Been looking for a channel to fill my time waiting on a new diesel creek and gotta say super happy your channel came up. Great video, keep up the good work. Good luck from the deep south!
I’ve seen some guy on UA-cam put in a Hobo Freight engine in a clapped out skid steer. Not saying that’s your answer, but you have options. Keep on keeping on, your content is great! Thanks for not slow rolling this project out like Airplane Rescue with 400 episodes of the same BS.
Get a leak down tester. Pressurize the cylinders and listen for the air escaping. Valve leak can be heard from the oil fill cap on the valve cover. Ring leak can be heard from the dipstick tube.
Well, don't feel too bad. I bought an older one (1835B) at an on-line auction ($6K delivered) based on the video of it working and the smile on the guy's face. I still had it delivered directly to the shop (I can't spell mchaneic) and they provided $9K more "worth" of head grinding, gasket and hose replacing, and a bit of tuning. It runs smooth like a 80 year old cigarette smoking kitten... but the hydraulic pump leaks... so I spent $15K and still there's a little more to do. You have inspired me to skid into the final mile using my own elbow grease, once I can find some, they said O'Reilly's has it, the best is the kind that comes in a tube, at least I know that, jeez. Wish me luck!
Here's what I've done and it WORKS unless the pistons are melted. Get a round piece of ALu bar, 1/4" smaller than the bore. Set it on top of the pistons and push an air chisel onto the top of the alu bar (puck). You'll need a good compressor with 120 psi or higher. Proceed to rattle the pistons with air chisel, after 20, 30, 50 minutes if they are going to come loose, they WILL. If not, HF 22hp Predator swap.
If it was a six cylinder it would start with low compression as the other cylinders would compensate for it. Probably remove pistons and free up the rings is all that it needs but before i would do that i would try a couple of things. Firstly remove the hydraulic pump off the bottom crankshaft pully and the driveshaft or coupler at the flywheel to the front pumps. So all the starter is doing is turning over the engine by itself as its alot easier and the pumps aren't slowing the starter down.Then put the largest battery you can find in it or even link two together but still keeping the system 12 volts. Then remove the glow plugs and pour some thick oil into two cylinders (maybe the lucas oil additive thats really thick) the quickly fit the glow plugs and try starting. I think it will work. The oil should seal around the ring area and create compression. If you have a 24v battery booster you can spin it over on short bursts at 24 volts till really get some good speed on the engine. Good luck. Would love till see it running.
Don't give up you are so close i agree with other commenters bigger battery and quick start once you can make it fire rings will most likely loosen up good luck lad you have a great personality you will do well in UA-cam land
Don’t give up just yet little bit of oil in 1 & 2 to seal the rings so compression will go up a bit, new fuel , some starting fluid and a really good fully charged battery and rig two batteries up so you get a bigger shot of power keep it at 12 volts , I think you will get it. You so very close. Also you don’t know if the leak is in the valves as you didn’t reset them so when you put a little oil in each cylinder then give it another cylinder test that will tell you if your Val es are leaking if the numbers stays the same if they go up will you have a leak in your cylinders but you will sort it out, don’t give up. Regards Andy PERTH AUSTRALIA
Here is a thought, Ya remember them little holes in the old head gasket that were not in the same location on the new head gasket ? Could it be that they are passages to where your fuel is introduced into the cylinders ? Your new head gasket may be blocking fuel from the injectors to the cylinders ! The cheap check is to remove the head, clean it up, spray both sides with copper spray paint, let it dry well, then reassemble and give it a try. Worth a try. If you try this, check the block to see if there is a hole in the block that corresponds to the holes in the gasket. That od number on tail of the new gasket number may have been due to a change made in the head on later models. During the late 50's into the 60's the copper paint on head gaskets was a trick used by race engine builders. I still use it on small air cooled engines.
Try to bring the rings around, but even if you have to rebuild it is well worth it, used one of those machines for a long time, they are not good cold starting to begin with but they are tough machines, Love the channel, keep it up brother
A high lift jack, come along, blocks, perhaps a hydraulic jack or two mixed with ingenuity will lift the bucket. You can also disconnect the bucket lines to free the pressure if necessary.
Personally, I would have gone to the trouble of removing the engine and doing a full taredown to check for damage to the bore and conrod bearings before spending out on gaskets. It would have given me an idea of what I needed to replace parts-wise. Also, it's a good idea to check the head surfaces for flatness and lapping in the valves in order to prevent loss of compression due to head warpinng or bad valve seats.
ANY TIME YOU PULL ANY HEAD off you send it out to have it shaved and valves done, it cost effective, you cant just throw a new gasket on and be done, it will fail and you end up doing it over again, they are never in spec once pulled and never reuse the head bolts, lapping the valves your self a waste of time unless you have the machine to do the valve an seats on the head.
Throw some oil in those cylinders with low compression. This may boost compression enough to fire up. Getting some heat cycles in those rings might help them come around.
I haver repaired this model of engine for this same problem. 1. Use a hand pump or another hydraulic source to raise the boom up all of the way. 2. Slide the cage all the way forward. 3. Remove the engine 4. Remove head and oil pan. 5. Remove pistons 2 and 3 6. Hone the cylinders, free up the rings and re-assemble If the rings are not broken this will be all labor, no parts. (RTV for the pan gasket)
Reverse polarity on the battery will turn the engine backward resulting in no start. The rings will loosen up when the engine starts and runs. Don't give up. Ron PTL USA
I repowered my gehl 3510 with an air cooled predator 670. The cost to rebuild the ford industrial gas engine made it not worth fixing, but for 800 bucks the predator engine actually performs great. It's just as capable as it was with the original engine.
You can get diesel engines from reefer units from around 100 to $200. I would just repower it with one of those that's and that is common as it can get
Parts are PITA for these continental's. I have an 89 1835c gas with a tm-20 (identical engine just gas). Mine had a "bent valve" which actually meant the head needed work, bad piston, and other odds and ends. Long story short I've been tinkering with it for months, parts are available but the only place I've had luck is on jensales. Not cheap but they can get the parts. I tried pricing out a repower to a Kubota or any other diesel, and by the time you figure your time/money invested it's cheaper to bite the bullet and rebuild the continental. Then sell it really quick while it has a new engine and buy something that doesn't have a continental. Lol. Keep at it!
maybe put heavy oil down the cylinders? it can help seal up the gaps between the cylinders and pistons and increase compression. if you get it running the rings might loosen up a bit after running for a while
This is a pretty old video at this point, but hope you're continuing with some ATF or Marvel mystery to try and free those stuck rings up. Could try and get some oil in the cylinders to get the compression up and hopfully run and free them. Nice skid you have there and sure seems worth fixing. Hope the drives are OK from dragging it - that's sort of a no-no. I have a IH4130 gasser that I gambled on - not running. I got it running on the trailer and backed it off. Worked out really well and love having around. Love having around. Found a cheap set of forks and it's so handy.
I got an old international dozer with a Detroit engine in it that had the same issue yours appears to have, it wouldn’t start due to low compression, being that I didn’t have much to loose, my dad taught me a trick when I was a kid, sometimes it the rings are stuck, you can get the engine warm, I hooked it up to my loader, and drug it in gear, spraying a little atf while I was dragging it around, that got the pistons hot, and the rings freed up, and it runs to this day, if you don’t have anything to loose, it’s worth a try, you would have to hook up a right angle hole hog up to it, pull the injectors, and get it hot, sometimes it will go back to work, however it probably won’t last a long time, but mines been running for 4 years now
If you cant get this engine going and repower. Consider a deutz air cooled engine like Deutz BF3M for example. These motors are a dime a dozen used in many different applications, no coolant, and are pretty neat engines. I messed with a BF4M in a bobcat skid steer and enjoyed rebuilding it.
Seeing rust or corrosion in there is obvious to the Intake being open ( it had no air cleaner or cover ( not sure whether you removed it ) ...and sitting for awhile it will start that process ( which cylinders will depend on valves being open etc..) I never worry about that..like the heads they are carboned and normal looking and actually not bad...but yes wire wheel them clean as it is apart... and water in your cooling circuit also was not anything strange ( due to open areas to moisture penetration ) .. just flush it out good before repairs are done and use later..
Glad I found your channel! This is my kinda content. I enjoy the inserted clips and the comical approach to real life problems. Kinda reminds me of myself…..except you didn’t throw any tools or use any explicit narratives😂
Oh yeah I too just found your channel and now subscribed , you will get there keep the videos coming, while you wait see if you can pick up a cheap hydrologic pump so you can see if the rams are good or jerryrig something up. Just keep these video’s coming.
Nice video 🙂 As pretty well everyone else suggested, I think you should lap the valves and verify the valve seals as much as you can. While doing that, soak the cylinders with WD-40 or some other oil that can free up stuck rings. With two cylinders not firing, this isn't likely your problem, but if it was my skid steer, I would also verify that all of the pistons came to approximately the same height in the cylinders before I reinstalled the head. It doesn't have to be an exact measurement - eyeballing is usually sufficient. There's no point in reinstalling a head on an engine that has bent conn rods or failed/missing bearings (yes, I have seen where an engine was rebuilt and the rebuilder somehow left a set of lower conn rod bearing out!). You'll just have to remove it again 😞
I have an 1835c, couple years new than yours, they are good machines, i know parts are hard to find for the tmd20 but i know they are out there. Another thing to consider is a 4 cylinder cummins, thats what is in the 1845 wich is an identical machine.
I thought the same. There was so much gunk in 2 & 3 I thought he’d lap the valves before putting the head back on. Maybe he did, he’s a pretty good wrench. You can easily lose compression through unseated valves.
Take the head off, lap the valves, soak it some more, hone the cylinder walls, soak it some more, turn it over by hand, soak it more. Those rings are likely to break lose..Done this on 4-5 frooze up engines..
#2 and #3 have stuck rings of course it's going to have low compression. Try heat gun in the intake to heat up air maybe it will pop off. If you run the engine there is a slim chance that the rings would get lose. Worth the try before you dump tons of money in to it.
The rings are probably stuck, you could pull the engine, tear it down and try to free the rings. Of course, triple check the valve settings too. It ain't over till it is towed out!
pull the head then the pan .pop the pistons out and put new rings on . hone the cylinders and relap the valves. that should'nt cost 1500 maybe 3or 4 tops . all you need are rings maybe rod bearings and a couple gaskets and you'll have a decent skid steer
Sounds like she has stuck rings on two cylinders. Which makes total sense with two of them having water in them. If you can get it to fire for a little bit they will most likely come free.
All the comments are accurate. I would soak the cylinders with fuel for a week, even wd-40 or blaster will do to loosen the rings a little. Once the come loose, dont use ether just squirt gasoline in the intake. If it fires no more ether just one squirt of gasoline at a time untill it runs then no more gas. I wish you were in FL, I will take it off your hands.
Get some extra juice on the battery power, I would use some WD40 sprayed into the intake when it is being cranked over you should hear a change in the cranking sound then try some engine start it’s maybe 50/50 if it will play the game key will be getting the engine cranking as fast as you can another trick is to put a hot air gun in the intake for ten minutes. Good luck . Regards Chris Bailey.
maybe clean the injectors and check the fuel pressure, not sure if you are using some fresh fuel as well, might be able to get it going on that one cylinder, the others might reseat them selves once running
Bump- I just found this video and subscribed. I found a 1995 Mustang 960 skid during covid and went through a lot of fights getting some idler bearings and sprocket replaced- last guy bever changed chain case oil. Running pretty good now. My ist skid steer. Keep at it. Check out Diesel Creek- Matt has lapped some valves and brought some awful junk back from dead letting rings soak. I feel 90% that its rings, just gotta get them free and loose. How many hours on this? Best wishes!!!
If you can get the oil pan off pop those 2 pistons out and hone the cylinders and free up the rings. The rings are most likely stuck in the ring lands. Some times you can heat cycle the pistons with a torch a few times and the rings will free up but I doubt that will work on your engine since it had standing water in it. If they are Iron pistons you could dump Muriatic Acid in on top of the pistons and let it eat the junk up that's causing the rings to stick and flush the block with diesel or Kero because it will seep in past the rings. Don't use Muriatic Acid if it has aluminum pistons because it will eat them.
Pull the two injection out. Run with one cylinder. And see if ring come loss. Get the heat up. )) don't give up. Starter motor will run faster only one piston running give it a go. God bless. I believe
Great content keep it up, reseat your valves then get the biggest battery you can find n let her rip you were real close she'll start am sure of it, watching from Tasmania cheets John
use 24 volts get the engine spinning faster and if your luck and can get it to fire it might clear the stuck rings don't use either with glow plugs pull glow plugs and soak all cylinder with trans fluid for a week then try again
Put some more mystery oil or 2 stroke in the two low cylinders. The 1st one has enough so if you could get it to just start the other two might losen up to get her going. Otherwise I would look into a Kubota on marketplace..
@@NockRanch I bought a Bobcat 843 with a 4cyl Perkins that the previous owner overheated and let sit. Let’s just say watching your video was quite familiar, cyl 2/3 looked identical to yours. My 4.154 is also hard to source parts for, so I feel for ya. Good luck. One suggestion I might add is to take your injectors to a local shop to test/clean or rebuild if needed.
I've just viewed this video. I have seen cases where if you dribble sum oil in the cylinders that have low compression it will sometimes raise it enough to get it running. It just needs a few heat cycles to get the rings to come around. I think it's worth a shot???
Rings are stuck on 2&3 ive used bar and chain oil and stick it in the cylinder sometimes it will raise compression just enough to get to poo off. The. Run the piss out of it and get it hot and ahell be alright!
Another line of thought would be to get a used Kubota, Perkins, Yanmar or other 3 cylinder diesel engine. They are all over the place littering up junkyards everywhere. I mention Kubota, Perkins and Yanmar because the parts are plentiful. If you can get a Kubota D1503, you can get the entire rebuild kit (cylinder sleeves, valves, pistons, gaskets, bearings, on and on) for under $600. It's not like you are on a huge time crunch, so you could wait for just the right deal.
I would also look at that head gasket again those 3 holes you showedd in the wrong place might be from what I could see for the injector ports into the cylinder maybe you need to add them to the new gasket. I mean couldn't hurt at this point right?
Dude, not an L! Get a quote to get it rebuilt by a shop (they should first inspect to see if even possible and it's gonna be expensive, let me warn you now) which may include getting the engine block surfaced and very likely getting your cylinders bored and sleeves put in... Etc. See if there is any shop that would do if for a discount for an advertisement opportunity. Could even try ad reach out to oter youtubers n see what you can get. Just make sure they are legit, which means the first thing they'll do is offer to inspect it and see if it"s even possible to rebuild it (you may have missed it).I just subscribed and I'll be hoping to see a sweet new engine. Make sure to get lots of footage of the shop work please 🕶
I'll bet you a dollar u fiddle with that lever and take the load off - she will fire right up. I was getting fire and white smoke and nothing. Mechanic after mechanic came and went saying it needed a rebuild. Took me a while messing with that pedal lever and she will fire up. You can thank me later. 100%. Great work and video
man my toes were getting tired from being crossed so much… have you tried putting it in rice? Great memes this week, and congrats on 500 subs! can’t wait for the next vid
Repowering won't be hard. There generally isn't anything special about mating up to the drive pumps with the flywheel. I repowered a thomas skid steer with a Perkins to a v1902 Kubota. There was next to no fab involved except that I had to replace the reefer oil pan because of clearance issues. Repower all the way with something more common like a Cummins or Kubota.
The rings are stuck because of the rust on the rings that is why you compression is so low. Many times you can get rings cut for you at a much cheaper price at a good machinist or hydraulic shop.
I'm not a mechanic, but I would say since you have the big piece of equipment, it's worth the extra $1500 to rebuild. So you've got $3,000 invested....not too shabby for what you'd end up having. Found myself giggling out loud at a lot of your content - especially the "love and passion" scene. Really enjoy your vids!
Your rings are probably stuck on #2 & #3 piston. White smoke from valve cover is blowby from stuck or broken rings. Pull the engine put new rings in ball hone the cylinders just a little and she will run. Also make sure your injectors are spraying good. Don't give up yet.
Hoping they're just stuck and I can clean them up n throw her back in. Thanks for the comment!
Before you rebuild, soak the pistons in Barryman B-12 to free the rings. B-12 is a regular tool used by Vice Grip Garage for that purpose. Might as well also lap the valves to make sure you have the best seal.
witch one you referring to. most listings for b12 is a fuel system cleaner. or an oil change additive or a parts cleaner, for years to fre up rings an stuff i use a 50/50 mix of fuel oil and ATF
put a little 2 stroke oil into the cylinder through the glow plug port and turn it over under compression and a little ether. once combustion starts it should fee the rings up and give a little better pressures.
That's what the hope is! We're going to try it out and see 👍
This is the next thing you should try before any kind of tear down. Oil in the cylinder will help you build some compression and might get it to start.
Yeah mate that’s what I’d do, ether will get it cranking easy when it’s that close to turning over
I have a case 1835c that I COMPLETELY rebuilt and it’s a AWESOME machine regardless of what people say about the engine it’s one of the greatest engines produced. I also built a rotary brush motor and a 4 way dozer blade a hydraulic front loader type cement mixer presently being built and a post hole digger in the works. DON’T SCRAP IT. You’ll kick yourself in the end.
Dang sounds like you got a nice setup! No worries, we'll get it going!
@@NockRanch if you want I’ll send you pictures of the machine and the attachments?
It’s a pity you didn’t relap the valves while you had the head out and we’re waiting for a head gasket, could have really helped for your compression, also I’d check injectors also as they we’re probably sitting in water for a good period mightn’t be spraying correctly
Live and learn. I agree!
Hope to see more on this project. Your humor and content are really entertaining. Keep up the good work. We all want to see your channel thrive.
I appreciate this, thank you!
I say soak the cylinders with marvel mystery oil or atf fluid for a while. Then try to start. If you get it going, the cylinders usually come back, not 100%, but good enough. Adding the oil will help with compression and hopefully get it to pop off. Also try All States Ag Parts they usually have tons of parts for older Case engines and very reasonable. Came across your channel and instantly sub, your work and humor is awsome. Keep up the work man and hope we see you back on this here soon.
Awesome, thank you for the kind words! I'll check them out👍
New rings, lap the valves, starting fluid, big battery and you’re away. Let’s go!
Adelaide Hills, South Australia
Welcome. Thank you!!
@@NockRanchPittsburgh brand does have life time warranty,on another chanel he broke some ratchets and harbor freight change it immediately
Also. Make sure you have a small piece of plywood with a chunk of rubber on it. Make sure the intake tube is open and accessible. That way if she try’s to run away on you when it DOES start you are ready to cover the intake. Don’t give up on it man. She will go. Also you can leave it sitting for a while with straight rust eliminator in it. That may free the rings up. If you rebuild it it’s not hard. I bet it only needs a home and a set of piston rings. And even if you can’t get the case ones. You can go to a “build your own ring pack” company and just tell them the sizes. Dooooont give up!!
I went through the very same thing. Had mechanic after mechanic look at it and all were stumped. Make sure the hydro aux lever is in the center. It's the pedal looking thing down by your left leg/foot. Make sure it's centered. If pressed either direction - its under major load and will not fire for anything in the world.
No such thing as a "loss", I call it a valuable" learn". I would love to see this old beast run but I also understand budget. Add one more to your sub list, I'm looking forward to future videos.
I appreciate it. Welcome! We'll get her goin' one way or another.
Keep at it. A gas engine only needs about 80 psi to run and once it's starts to pop the rings will free up and it will run. I had a perkins last year do the same thing but it started to run on one cylinder then it took off.
You do understand a diesel is compression based right, no spark plugs. If maybe one of the cylinders was down 50 psi, it might run, but when 2 are way lower it will not kick off
Yep good hot glow plugs are a must
And starting fluid will pop off ez just a little compression and hot glow plug pop. Pop. Pop it should run
Bud you have no idea just how close you are to getting it running! I'd try a bit of ether (starting fluid) to get it started(just a quick burst into the intake) and hopefully, those rings will start freeing up. I would try that before completely pulling out/tearing down the engine.
So close you can feel it, isn't it!? Thanks for the advice!
Do you have glow plugs if so ck if they are getting voltage
Did you guys watch the video? He tried starting fluid (ether)and used the glow plugs.
its down to compression .
Been looking for a channel to fill my time waiting on a new diesel creek and gotta say super happy your channel came up. Great video, keep up the good work. Good luck from the deep south!
I appreciate it! More to come!
45:45 the things on springs are called brushes. We all have those moments, keep up the good work.
I’ve seen some guy on UA-cam put in a Hobo Freight engine in a clapped out skid steer. Not saying that’s your answer, but you have options. Keep on keeping on, your content is great! Thanks for not slow rolling this project out like Airplane Rescue with 400 episodes of the same BS.
I appreciate you man. Thank you!
Dont give up on it, i feel like your pretty close to getting it going. You got me hooked and subed with this bad boy and id love to see it running!!!
We'll get it goin! Thanks!
Get a leak down tester. Pressurize the cylinders and listen for the air escaping. Valve leak can be heard from the oil fill cap on the valve cover. Ring leak can be heard from the dipstick tube.
Good idea thanks!
Well, don't feel too bad. I bought an older one (1835B) at an on-line auction ($6K delivered) based on the video of it working and the smile on the guy's face. I still had it delivered directly to the shop (I can't spell mchaneic) and they provided $9K more "worth" of head grinding, gasket and hose replacing, and a bit of tuning. It runs smooth like a 80 year old cigarette smoking kitten... but the hydraulic pump leaks... so I spent $15K and still there's a little more to do. You have inspired me to skid into the final mile using my own elbow grease, once I can find some, they said O'Reilly's has it, the best is the kind that comes in a tube, at least I know that, jeez. Wish me luck!
Man, sounds like a nightmare. No feeling will compare to getting it done yourself. Best!
Shoot buddy! I'm behind on videos. Gotta play catch up now! Glad to see the skidloader back on the channel.
More to come. Thanks for sticking around, pally
Dude!!! Just finished the video. That thing is soooo close. Put a little oil in the cylinders to help out with some compression. It will go.
Here's what I've done and it WORKS unless the pistons are melted. Get a round piece of ALu bar, 1/4" smaller than the bore.
Set it on top of the pistons and push an air chisel onto the top of the alu bar (puck). You'll need a good compressor with 120 psi or higher. Proceed to rattle the pistons with air chisel, after 20, 30, 50 minutes if they are going to come loose, they WILL. If not, HF 22hp Predator swap.
Those are great little loaders. well worth your time and money to keep it stock. Another great video, lets not forget about the old MERK!
The rings in two cylinders are probably stuck out oil in the two cylinders that are low and see if it gets higher
Going to give it a shot!
I just have to say, this is a great video. You have a great personality and I hope you keep going and being yourself. Great work!
I appreciate this, thank you!
If you need head gaskets made. Olsen's make almost any head gasket. Been down this road. Tap the pistons with a block of wood and small sledge hammer.
If it was a six cylinder it would start with low compression as the other cylinders would compensate for it. Probably remove pistons and free up the rings is all that it needs but before i would do that i would try a couple of things. Firstly remove the hydraulic pump off the bottom crankshaft pully and the driveshaft or coupler at the flywheel to the front pumps. So all the starter is doing is turning over the engine by itself as its alot easier and the pumps aren't slowing the starter down.Then put the largest battery you can find in it or even link two together but still keeping the system 12 volts. Then remove the glow plugs and pour some thick oil into two cylinders (maybe the lucas oil additive thats really thick) the quickly fit the glow plugs and try starting. I think it will work. The oil should seal around the ring area and create compression. If you have a 24v battery booster you can spin it over on short bursts at 24 volts till really get some good speed on the engine. Good luck. Would love till see it running.
This is the plan! We'll get it goin. Fingers and toes crossed
Don't give up you are so close i agree with other commenters bigger battery and quick start once you can make it fire rings will most likely loosen up good luck lad you have a great personality you will do well in UA-cam land
I appreciate this more than you know. Thank you!
I have an 1835B and do all the work on it, I feel your pain
Just watched both vids and reading comments. Sounds like you got some sound advise. I hope you start back on the project
Don’t give up just yet little bit of oil in 1 & 2 to seal the rings so compression will go up a bit, new fuel , some starting fluid and a really good fully charged battery and rig two batteries up so you get a bigger shot of power keep it at 12 volts , I think you will get it. You so very close. Also you don’t know if the leak is in the valves as you didn’t reset them so when you put a little oil in each cylinder then give it another cylinder test that will tell you if your Val es are leaking if the numbers stays the same if they go up will you have a leak in your cylinders but you will sort it out, don’t give up. Regards Andy PERTH AUSTRALIA
Thank you for the advice!!
Here is a thought, Ya remember them little holes in the old head gasket that were not in the same location on the new head gasket ?
Could it be that they are passages to where your fuel is introduced into the cylinders ?
Your new head gasket may be blocking fuel from the injectors to the cylinders !
The cheap check is to remove the head, clean it up, spray both sides with copper spray paint, let it dry well, then reassemble and give it a try.
Worth a try.
If you try this, check the block to see if there is a hole in the block that corresponds to the holes in the gasket.
That od number on tail of the new gasket number may have been due to a change made in the head on later models.
During the late 50's into the 60's the copper paint on head gaskets was a trick used by race engine builders.
I still use it on small air cooled engines.
I'll double check, but I looked on the head and the block and neither had holes that lined up! Must be engineering stuff over my head!
Also you can do a wet cylinder compression test. That will also tell you a better idea.
Great info. Thanks for taking the time for the comment!
Try to bring the rings around, but even if you have to rebuild it is well worth it, used one of those machines for a long time, they are not good cold starting to begin with but they are tough machines,
Love the channel, keep it up brother
Awesome thank you!
If you have stuck piston rings at rust it lower compression. So if you get it running warm compression at 1 and 2 cylinders can rise.
That's what I'm hoping. Thanks for the comment!
A high lift jack, come along, blocks, perhaps a hydraulic jack or two mixed with ingenuity will lift the bucket. You can also disconnect the bucket lines to free the pressure if necessary.
Might have to if the engine is coming out. Thanks!
Personally, I would have gone to the trouble of removing the engine and doing a full taredown to check for damage to the bore and conrod bearings before spending out on gaskets.
It would have given me an idea of what I needed to replace parts-wise.
Also, it's a good idea to check the head surfaces for flatness and lapping in the valves in order to prevent loss of compression due to head warpinng or bad valve seats.
ANY TIME YOU PULL ANY HEAD off you send it out to have it shaved and valves done, it cost effective, you cant just throw a new gasket on and be done, it will fail and you end up doing it over again, they are never in spec once pulled and never reuse the head bolts, lapping the valves your self a waste of time unless you have the machine to do the valve an seats on the head.
THIS!
Throw some oil in those cylinders with low compression. This may boost compression enough to fire up. Getting some heat cycles in those rings might help them come around.
I haver repaired this model of engine for this same problem.
1. Use a hand pump or another hydraulic source to raise the boom up all of the way.
2. Slide the cage all the way forward.
3. Remove the engine
4. Remove head and oil pan.
5. Remove pistons 2 and 3
6. Hone the cylinders, free up the rings and re-assemble
If the rings are not broken this will be all labor, no parts. (RTV for the pan gasket)
Reverse polarity on the battery will turn the engine backward resulting in no start. The rings will loosen up when the engine starts and runs. Don't give up. Ron PTL USA
I repowered my gehl 3510 with an air cooled predator 670. The cost to rebuild the ford industrial gas engine made it not worth fixing, but for 800 bucks the predator engine actually performs great. It's just as capable as it was with the original engine.
Definitely an option. Thanks for the comment!
You can get diesel engines from reefer units from around 100 to $200. I would just repower it with one of those that's and that is common as it can get
I'll look into that just in case!
Parts are PITA for these continental's. I have an 89 1835c gas with a tm-20 (identical engine just gas). Mine had a "bent valve" which actually meant the head needed work, bad piston, and other odds and ends. Long story short I've been tinkering with it for months, parts are available but the only place I've had luck is on jensales. Not cheap but they can get the parts. I tried pricing out a repower to a Kubota or any other diesel, and by the time you figure your time/money invested it's cheaper to bite the bullet and rebuild the continental. Then sell it really quick while it has a new engine and buy something that doesn't have a continental. Lol. Keep at it!
Sounds about right to me! Thanks for the comment!
maybe put heavy oil down the cylinders? it can help seal up the gaps between the cylinders and pistons and increase compression.
if you get it running the rings might loosen up a bit after running for a while
That's the hope! Thanks for the comment👍
alright!
This is a pretty old video at this point, but hope you're continuing with some ATF or Marvel mystery to try and free those stuck rings up. Could try and get some oil in the cylinders to get the compression up and hopfully run and free them. Nice skid you have there and sure seems worth fixing. Hope the drives are OK from dragging it - that's sort of a no-no.
I have a IH4130 gasser that I gambled on - not running. I got it running on the trailer and backed it off. Worked out really well and love having around. Love having around. Found a cheap set of forks and it's so handy.
I could be wrong but i think those holes are for the glowplugs. Great video
I got an old international dozer with a Detroit engine in it that had the same issue yours appears to have, it wouldn’t start due to low compression, being that I didn’t have much to loose, my dad taught me a trick when I was a kid, sometimes it the rings are stuck, you can get the engine warm, I hooked it up to my loader, and drug it in gear, spraying a little atf while I was dragging it around, that got the pistons hot, and the rings freed up, and it runs to this day, if you don’t have anything to loose, it’s worth a try, you would have to hook up a right angle hole hog up to it, pull the injectors, and get it hot, sometimes it will go back to work, however it probably won’t last a long time, but mines been running for 4 years now
If you cant get this engine going and repower. Consider a deutz air cooled engine like Deutz BF3M for example. These motors are a dime a dozen used in many different applications, no coolant, and are pretty neat engines. I messed with a BF4M in a bobcat skid steer and enjoyed rebuilding it.
Awesome thank you!
I absolutely love your videos! Keep em coming
I was so excited when the pistons freed up for you. lol
Seeing rust or corrosion in there is obvious to the Intake being open ( it had no air cleaner or cover ( not sure whether you removed it ) ...and sitting for awhile it will start that process ( which cylinders will depend on valves being open etc..) I never worry about that..like the heads they are carboned and normal looking and actually not bad...but yes wire wheel them clean as it is apart... and water in your cooling circuit also was not anything strange ( due to open areas to moisture penetration ) .. just flush it out good before repairs are done and use later..
Glad I found your channel! This is my kinda content. I enjoy the inserted clips and the comical approach to real life problems. Kinda reminds me of myself…..except you didn’t throw any tools or use any explicit narratives😂
Oh don't you worry. Off camera, words are always being had. Haha welcome!!
Oh yeah I too just found your channel and now subscribed , you will get there keep the videos coming, while you wait see if you can pick up a cheap hydrologic pump so you can see if the rams are good or jerryrig something up. Just keep these video’s coming.
And thanks for subscribing, I appreciate it!!
Nice video 🙂
As pretty well everyone else suggested, I think you should lap the valves and verify the valve seals as much as you can. While doing that, soak the cylinders with WD-40 or some other oil that can free up stuck rings. With two cylinders not firing, this isn't likely your problem, but if it was my skid steer, I would also verify that all of the pistons came to approximately the same height in the cylinders before I reinstalled the head. It doesn't have to be an exact measurement - eyeballing is usually sufficient. There's no point in reinstalling a head on an engine that has bent conn rods or failed/missing bearings (yes, I have seen where an engine was rebuilt and the rebuilder somehow left a set of lower conn rod bearing out!). You'll just have to remove it again 😞
Thanks for the advice! Definitely going to keep working on it 👍
I have an 1835c, couple years new than yours, they are good machines, i know parts are hard to find for the tmd20 but i know they are out there. Another thing to consider is a 4 cylinder cummins, thats what is in the 1845 wich is an identical machine.
You’re handy, pull that sumbich out n replace them rings. Let’s go!
We'll get it licked one way or another!
Add ether, rings are stuck. Lap the valves.
I thought the same. There was so much gunk in 2 & 3 I thought he’d lap the valves before putting the head back on. Maybe he did, he’s a pretty good wrench. You can easily lose compression through unseated valves.
Take the head off, lap the valves, soak it some more, hone the cylinder walls, soak it some more, turn it over by hand, soak it more. Those rings are likely to break lose..Done this on 4-5 frooze up engines..
Good advice! Thank you!
#2 and #3 have stuck rings of course it's going to have low compression. Try heat gun in the intake to heat up air maybe it will pop off. If you run the engine there is a slim chance that the rings would get lose. Worth the try before you dump tons of money in to it.
Thanks for the advise! Going to throw everything I got at it before I pull it
The rings are probably stuck, you could pull the engine, tear it down and try to free the rings. Of course, triple check the valve settings too. It ain't over till it is towed out!
It ain't over til it's over!
Being back on the ranch AND skid steer content?! Sign me up
Youuuuuuuu better believe it
pull the head then the pan .pop the pistons out and put new rings on . hone the cylinders and relap the valves. that should'nt cost 1500 maybe 3or 4 tops . all you need are rings maybe rod bearings and a couple gaskets and you'll have a decent skid steer
Sounds like she has stuck rings on two cylinders. Which makes total sense with two of them having water in them. If you can get it to fire for a little bit they will most likely come free.
Check the pistons for cracks. re ring the pistons Valve ob ans check valve timing. Make sure the fuel system is working properly.
Grumps
You were close, spray some ether down the breather and make sure your battery is fully charged., then try to start it again.
We'll give it another shot!
All the comments are accurate. I would soak the cylinders with fuel for a week, even wd-40 or blaster will do to loosen the rings a little. Once the come loose, dont use ether just squirt gasoline in the intake. If it fires no more ether just one squirt of gasoline at a time untill it runs then no more gas.
I wish you were in FL, I will take it off your hands.
Man sometimes I was in FL too! Already getting cold in Cleveland...
Get some extra juice on the battery power, I would use some WD40 sprayed into the intake when it is being cranked over you should hear a change in the cranking sound then try some engine start it’s maybe 50/50 if it will play the game key will be getting the engine cranking as fast as you can another trick is to put a hot air gun in the intake for ten minutes. Good luck . Regards Chris Bailey.
Thank you!
maybe clean the injectors and check the fuel pressure, not sure if you are using some fresh fuel as well, might be able to get it going on that one cylinder, the others might reseat them selves once running
Bump-
I just found this video and subscribed.
I found a 1995 Mustang 960 skid during covid and went through a lot of fights getting some idler bearings and sprocket replaced- last guy bever changed chain case oil.
Running pretty good now.
My ist skid steer.
Keep at it.
Check out Diesel Creek- Matt has lapped some valves and brought some awful junk back from dead letting rings soak.
I feel 90% that its rings, just gotta get them free and loose.
How many hours on this?
Best wishes!!!
I appreciate this, thank you! Can't remember hours off the top of my head, but it wasn't bad. Maybe 3,000
I would lap the valves and hopefully it starts do some heat cycles and hopefully the rings come around and compression evens out
We'll see! Thanks!
While turning it over give it a shot of ether small shot and light accelerator for adv timing you don't know if it out of time. Good luck
Thanks for the advice!
If you can get the oil pan off pop those 2 pistons out and hone the cylinders and free up the rings. The rings are most likely stuck in the ring lands. Some times you can heat cycle the pistons with a torch a few times and the rings will free up but I doubt that will work on your engine since it had standing water in it. If they are Iron pistons you could dump Muriatic Acid in on top of the pistons and let it eat the junk up that's causing the rings to stick and flush the block with diesel or Kero because it will seep in past the rings. Don't use Muriatic Acid if it has aluminum pistons because it will eat them.
Good note, thank you!
Pull the two injection out. Run with one cylinder. And see if ring come loss. Get the heat up. )) don't give up. Starter motor will run faster only one piston running give it a go.
God bless. I believe
Thank you!
Also built steel tracks and it came with a loader bucket and forks
Great content keep it up, reseat your valves then get the biggest battery you can find n let her rip you were real close she'll start am sure of it, watching from Tasmania cheets John
Noted. Thanks for the advice!
use 24 volts get the engine spinning faster and if your luck and can get it to fire it might clear the stuck rings don't use either with glow plugs pull glow plugs and soak all cylinder with trans fluid for a week then try again
Will do. Thanks!
Put some more mystery oil or 2 stroke in the two low cylinders. The 1st one has enough so if you could get it to just start the other two might losen up to get her going. Otherwise I would look into a Kubota on marketplace..
Right along with what I'm thinkin'!
@@NockRanch I bought a Bobcat 843 with a 4cyl Perkins that the previous owner overheated and let sit. Let’s just say watching your video was quite familiar, cyl 2/3 looked identical to yours. My 4.154 is also hard to source parts for, so I feel for ya. Good luck. One suggestion I might add is to take your injectors to a local shop to test/clean or rebuild if needed.
I've just viewed this video. I have seen cases where if you dribble sum oil in the cylinders that have low compression it will sometimes raise it enough to get it running. It just needs a few heat cycles to get the rings to come around. I think it's worth a shot???
Rings are stuck on 2&3 ive used bar and chain oil and stick it in the cylinder sometimes it will raise compression just enough to get to poo off. The. Run the piss out of it and get it hot and ahell be alright!
Excellent content my dude keep it coming..
I appreciate you. Thanks!
Warm it up with hot oil heat oil up add it all kinda tricks that heat that moisture got into that system
Great video you made. Pretty entertaining
I appreciate that, thank you!
Another line of thought would be to get a used Kubota, Perkins, Yanmar or other 3 cylinder diesel engine. They are all over the place littering up junkyards everywhere. I mention Kubota, Perkins and Yanmar because the parts are plentiful. If you can get a Kubota D1503, you can get the entire rebuild kit (cylinder sleeves, valves, pistons, gaskets, bearings, on and on) for under $600. It's not like you are on a huge time crunch, so you could wait for just the right deal.
No advice, of course, but I loved watching the process! Hope you get some hope.
I hope so too. Thank you!!
Take the glow plugs out and put a half ounce of 20 w 50 in each cylinder and it will start
I would try lapping g the valves to gain back some compression they are really gunked up by the looks of it that might help your issue!
Definitely would help for sure. Thanks for the comment!
I would also look at that head gasket again those 3 holes you showedd in the wrong place might be from what I could see for the injector ports into the cylinder maybe you need to add them to the new gasket. I mean couldn't hurt at this point right?
Nice edits homie, and to see you grow. ✊🏼
I appreciate it thank you!!
Dude, not an L! Get a quote to get it rebuilt by a shop (they should first inspect to see if even possible and it's gonna be expensive, let me warn you now) which may include getting the engine block surfaced and very likely getting your cylinders bored and sleeves put in... Etc. See if there is any shop that would do if for a discount for an advertisement opportunity. Could even try ad reach out to oter youtubers n see what you can get. Just make sure they are legit, which means the first thing they'll do is offer to inspect it and see if it"s even possible to rebuild it (you may have missed it).I just subscribed and I'll be hoping to see a sweet new engine. Make sure to get lots of footage of the shop work please 🕶
We'll be updating on it here shortly!
Put some heavy oil down the pistons to bring the compression up
New rings and ball honing the walls will probably do it, while you're in there lap the valves
Good advice. Thank you!
Love the content! Your a howl to watch lol. Keep on keepin it real. 👍
I appreciate it thank you!!
I'll bet you a dollar u fiddle with that lever and take the load off - she will fire right up. I was getting fire and white smoke and nothing. Mechanic after mechanic came and went saying it needed a rebuild. Took me a while messing with that pedal lever and she will fire up. You can thank me later. 100%. Great work and video
I'll check it out, thanks for the insight!
It should all be close to the same psi in each cylinder. I would get rings for the two, or find a new brand of engine to swap out with.
man my toes were getting tired from being crossed so much… have you tried putting it in rice? Great memes this week, and congrats on 500 subs! can’t wait for the next vid
Best comment award 🏆 Thanks J-ROD
It looks like a really nice machine wish I had it myself
Repowering won't be hard. There generally isn't anything special about mating up to the drive pumps with the flywheel. I repowered a thomas skid steer with a Perkins to a v1902 Kubota. There was next to no fab involved except that I had to replace the reefer oil pan because of clearance issues. Repower all the way with something more common like a Cummins or Kubota.
Good advice. Thanks for the comment!
There is a switch in the seat you have to be sitting in seat with safety belt on, for it to start
24 volt it get it spinning faster
Might grab the 2 batteries from my DT466 next time I try it!
Yep I would try 24 volts. If it's down on compression it needs to spin faster. If you can get it to start the rings might come around.
The rings are stuck because of the rust on the rings that is why you compression is so low. Many times you can get rings cut for you at a much cheaper price at a good machinist or hydraulic shop.
Put some heavy weight oil in the bad cylinders to increase compression it should start if it does let it run for at least a half hour