Someone who worked on my car before I bought it used that method of pressing down on the intake tube in order to get it off. It caused the underside of the tube to split, leaving a gaping hole which allowed unfiltered air into the engine. So now I'm looking at a pristine air filter, a filthy throttle body, and lots if work ahead of me, not to mention having to buy a new tube, and there's no telling what damage has been done to the cylinders and pistons by the grit-filled air. Just take the extra few seconds to pull the intake tube off without bending it. The tube attaches at one end to the cover that fits over the air filter, and that's just held on by four little clips that you can pop loose with your thumb. Do that, and you can just twist that cover off the end of the hose. Then you can gently turn and pull it to get it loose from the throttle body. These are old cars now, and the plastic can get brittle. Don't bend the intake tube.
Chances are the EGR passages are blocked. In the future, you can always tell one from the other by the code number. A code that says “EGR lift,” means a bad EGR valve. A code that says “EGR insufficient flow,” means blocked passageways.
This vid has excellent steps on removing things around the throttle body! I have this exact Honda 2-door version. Love this car. About the smog ready part near the end of this video in the corrupt state of CA 🙂, turn on your car WITHOUT starting it. If the engine light blinks EXACTLY FIVE times then stops AND not staying on, that means the car is telling you that it is NOT smog ready. You will need to do a drive cycle. Google for that information on how to do a drive cycle. Btw, if your engine light blinks WHILE driving your car, it means something is seriously wrong with the car. But, as mentioned, when you turn your car on AND not starting it and see the engine light blinks EXACTLY five times then stops and not staying on, it means it needs to be smog ready! Make it so; otherwise, you won't pass the smog check, and the DMV will give you hell, as well as BAD mechanics will rip you off pretending that your car has a serious emission problem, which it does NOT!
Holly Wagner I just reread what you wrote a week ago. If you just reset the code and didn’t actually clean anything out like my video shows, you will get the same code. You see in the video I didn’t replace the EGR valve because it’s not necessary to replace the valve. All you need to do is take the time to follow the steps in the video and spend some time cleaning out the passages as best as you can.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair yeah i had cleaned like in the video and replaced the egr at the same time the light came back on afterwards so I used seafoam as well afterwards and now the light is off
EL DE LA 79 Did you follow the video exactly? You can’t be lazy on cleaning out the entire system. Take the top of the intake manifold off, take the EGR valve off. Everything needs to be clean very good.
Hey don’t get me wrong but couldn’t i just take out the EGR valve and get a wire brush and clean it out. Also get a air hose and a vacuum to finish it up?
You could but taking off the top intake manifold piece allows you to get a much better clean and it allows you to actually see the port that gets clogged up from the egr passage.
Mark Lozano This could have happened from a few things. 1. Do you have a check engine light on? - YES? Read the code and go from there and let me know what it says. -NO? Continue on to step 2. 2. Check ALL vacuum hoses that you touched for the correct placement and make sure they are secure. Is the problem fixed? -YES? All is well. -NO? Continue to step 3. 3. If you disconnected the coolant hoses from the Idle air control valve (on the back of the manifold) and lots of coolant came out, you need to try and bleed the cooling system again. If air gets trapped in those hoses inside that valve then the sensor can’t regulate airflow correctly and you get this idle hunting like you have. This is usually accompanied by a check engine after you try and go and drive it. Jack the car up or park uphill on a driveway and starting with a COLD engine fill the radiator up completely, leave the cap off. Turn the inside temp full hot and fan speed medium. Start the car up and top off the coolant as needed. Let it warm up for 10 mins or so with the cap off. Squeeze the top and lower hoses to help air escape while it’s running. After 10 mins, put the cap back on loosely and let it idle for another 5-8 mins or so. Then close the cap completely. After it has reached full operating temp go for a drive and see if the idle hunting has gone away. -YES? All is well -NO? Continue to step 4. 4. Make sure your Idle air control valve isn’t stuck or broken. Take the IACV back off. Disconnect the electrical connector and the two coolant hoses. Clean the small rotating metal piece inside. It often gets stuck and dirty over time. I use brake cleaner to clean it out then I use wd-40 to lubricate it slightly. Put it back on and bleed the system again. These are really the only things that can cause idle hunting. Good luck.
Helping Hand Auto Repair so I cleaned the intake and yeah I’m getting the idle surge, I replaced the iac recently before doing this job so that should be good, but I keep getting the p0505 code. Yes I’ve bled the system too. Please any ideas? Is the egr valve a potential suspect?
Helping Hand Auto Repair no actually I was just replacing the rear motor mount, cleaned the intake since I already had it apart cause it was really caked up.
I got lucky? Honestly nothing much to do about rusted bolts. You can try using a screw extractor but then you will need to replace the now damaged nuts.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepairAs a fix it guy, I have used various coat hangers for repairs for 40 years. I "temporarily" locked my headlight back in place ten years ago after the plastic position tab broke. With two plyers and some patience you can accomplish much. However, if I am going to do that job on a regular basis, and that's my livelihood, I would definitely invest a small sum in the two piece set. One two foot long carbide tipped flexible drill attachment and a super long, very stiff, flexible muzzle brush. Honda didn't face the recurring problem by redesigning the EGR system but at least dealt with the complaints of their techs by getting the right tools for the job. It gets all the carbon out much faster. You can clean a rifle with a modified coat hanger and pieces of rag dipped in solvent and oil as I once had to, or use a muzzle brush kit. If you're a gun smith I recommend the purpose tools. It's your time. Appreciate the lesson. Good video.
I completely understand where you are coming from. I however don’t do this for a living. Not even close. I work on friends cars if I want. I don’t get these accords often and as you can tell from my channel that my friends all have random vehicles.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair Oh. Well you are as good as many professionals. I bought a $30 long bore attachment for my hand drill. I use it with penetrating oil on many dirty clogged passages on various engines; And my Hondas but most EGR systems do this. The hard part is getting all that stuff off and back on an old car without breaking anything especially the plastic bit. Good job.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair got it fixed today. Thankful for the instructional you made, made every step very clear. One thing is that now the engine is revving up and down while idling. Is that to be expected? Or did I mess something up?
@@macmayeda if you took the coolant lines off the IACV on the back of the manifold, it is possible that you let some air into the system. These cars at this age now are notoriously bad for cold start idle hunting. Especially after any work that requires coolant to be drained. I would advise jacking the front of the car up and bleeding the cooling system. This may help (about a 50/50 shot) if not then you may need to take the IACV off the back of the manifold and try cleaning it out as it does get corrosion on it from coolant and sometimes that seizes up the electromagnetic piece inside that controls the airflow. Some brake cleaner and a flat head screwdriver and a small brush works wonders with that. If none of that works AND (I stress AND) you get a check engine light code for Idle air control valve. You may need to replace the valve and bleed the system.
Quick question, the boats in the back of the intake manifold… Is one of them supposed to hold a hose? And what happens if you just bolt the intake manifold down?
I just did this and now the engine revs from 2k to 5k, then keeps repeating. At first I noticed that I forgot to plug the throttle sensor back in, but it still did it after I reconnected it. Any suggestions?
Gotta try cleaning mines since it has a lot of carbon build up my accord has been sitting for 2 years but starts up fine but it idles high but once you step on the gas or give it a drive it goes back to normal idles but once u turn the vehicle off and turn it back on it idles surges high again I replaced the iac valve cleaned the map sensor but still with the same issue
phi song Did you have a check engine light on for the IACV? If not it probably didn’t need to be replaced. It was probably fine. Here is what I would do: 1. Start the car up and let it warm up for 5 mins. 2. Go for a drive to get it up to normal operating temp. In this time be a little hard on the car. You don’t have to floor it but maybe 60-70% throttle. 3. After it has warmed up all the way, give it 100% throttle a few times throughout the drive. Let it clean itself out. High idle after the car has been sitting for awhile is completely normal. It should settle down to 650-700rpm as it warms up. If you have a surging idle (ie idle goes up and down and up and down constantly) after you have driven it then I would use a scanner to scan for an “pending” codes. If there are no codes at all then I would bleed the cooling system.
Hey yea had to head to oreiley to check the codes and yea had 3 codes P0505 idle air control system P1738 2nd pressure switch failure P1164 h02s (a/f sensor) s1 lean range problem
phi song well if you just installed a new IACV, it is either defective or you need to bleed the cooling system properly. An air bubble in the system will cause a surging idle. P1738 is the transmission solenoid on top of the transmission The other one is the upstream O2 sensor. This will cause general drivability issues
Helping hand auto repair. Yea the new iacv is probabaly defective but I still do have the old one witch I can clean it and try it out and I’ll bleed the coolant tomorow, i do have a short clip of the vehicle idling seems like a jerking motion idles I’ll post it up on my page
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair Yes, I looked at a diagram and saw that. I could not see the IAC and I thought you were talking about the MAP sensor again but did not catch if you said IAC sensor on the back in the video. Anyhow, I am ready to do a full cleaning of the EGR passageway. I took off the EGR valve and cleaned it and have not seen another P0401 code yet. I am however getting a dreaded P1381 code and might remove the alternator and have it tested at O'Reillys for bad diodes. My friends 1998 Odyssey has 180,000 miles on it so I don't want to throw parts at the P1381 code. It gets him where he wants to go and he can't afford to be buying parts. :)
Hi, thank for this very informative video. I'm curious if this should be done if there is no codes at all. Previously had my 1999 Accord on Non OP for 2 years ( started it every two weeks). Then had a serious injury and didn't touch my car for 3 months. Had several experiences of crank no start. Replaced the battery. Car ran fine. Then out of the blue, had another crank no start. The main relay was changed out. Now car starts fine. But it's always had a surging issue in the mornings after the engine was replaced. For instance, leave the driveway, get to stop sign, make full stop and car surges foward. If I didn't have my seatbelt on, I'd thrust forward into the steering wheel. Car also has a bad high idle while waiting at a stop sign or signal light. I have to put my car in neutral to settle down the idle. Car has 238k miles. IAC and map sensor has already been replaced. New plugs and wires. I'm being told I have a bent or crack flet plate with the engine was replaced. But my trans fluid is great in color and smell and trans makes no noise. Is this worth doing if the engine was replace in August 2017?
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair no, it's just a tiny bit hesitant to start in the mornings. The idle is getting worse the more I drive it. We're in a tough situation because our 07 Tundra needs a rebuilt trans, but because of the darn pandemic, we can't find a decent shop to rebuild the trans. Which trans has a code for the torque converter clutch. So I have to drive my Honda to get my kids to and from school.
I have 2001 Accord LX. I cleaned it awhile ago by watching a different video. Once I start it up, it surges up and down like its reving on it's own. I ask the guy in the video and he said to replace the IAC valve cause cleaner probably got into it through the hole on the throttle and messed it up. It still did it with the new one but the new gasket was broken so I put the old one back on the new cause it looked fine. Still doing it. I decided to do a coolant flush and refill at the same time after I got the new one on cause I didn't know how old the coolant was and I put blue in. I just need to run it to fully bleed it but it's still surging. Sometimes it shows a flashing CEL but it goes away after a few seconds. I scanned it when it first started doing it but theres no codes pertaining to IAC valve. Any suggestions? Thanks!
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair I got P1399 and PO301. I've had misfire codes ever since I've had the car and they go away and come back. Doing the cleaning could potentially get rid of the misfire from what I been told/looked up. I didnt get any relating to the IAC valve. I just started it again and it didnt go up and down this time. It just stayed at 2k.
Well how many miles are on your car? Has the car had a basic ignition tune up done? Plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor? High mileage and unadjusted valves can cause misfires also.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair well i just take egr out in clean it then the car won't start no more. Then i find ur video. But I dont want to take the modifold out.
![P0401 Insufficient EGR Flow [FIX] for 2002 Honda Accord (new discovery found)](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/cQZJC_lcQrw/mqdefault.jpg)
![P0401 Insufficient EGR Flow [FIX] for 2002 Honda Accord (new discovery found)](/img/tr.png)
Someone who worked on my car before I bought it used that method of pressing down on the intake tube in order to get it off. It caused the underside of the tube to split, leaving a gaping hole which allowed unfiltered air into the engine. So now I'm looking at a pristine air filter, a filthy throttle body, and lots if work ahead of me, not to mention having to buy a new tube, and there's no telling what damage has been done to the cylinders and pistons by the grit-filled air.
Just take the extra few seconds to pull the intake tube off without bending it. The tube attaches at one end to the cover that fits over the air filter, and that's just held on by four little clips that you can pop loose with your thumb. Do that, and you can just twist that cover off the end of the hose. Then you can gently turn and pull it to get it loose from the throttle body.
These are old cars now, and the plastic can get brittle. Don't bend the intake tube.
I wish you had showed the process of cleaning out that curved channel in the manifold between the EGR valve and the manifold cover.
A hanger. Just go ham on it
Thank you. Just what I needed.
If I had just seen this before buying that new EGR valve that didn't fix the problem...
Chances are the EGR passages are blocked. In the future, you can always tell one from the other by the code number. A code that says “EGR lift,” means a bad EGR valve. A code that says “EGR insufficient flow,” means blocked passageways.
Very nicely detailed with explaining the parts and step by step process. Thank you so much!
This vid has excellent steps on removing things around the throttle body! I have this exact Honda 2-door version. Love this car. About the smog ready part near the end of this video in the corrupt state of CA 🙂, turn on your car WITHOUT starting it. If the engine light blinks EXACTLY FIVE times then stops AND not staying on, that means the car is telling you that it is NOT smog ready. You will need to do a drive cycle. Google for that information on how to do a drive cycle. Btw, if your engine light blinks WHILE driving your car, it means something is seriously wrong with the car. But, as mentioned, when you turn your car on AND not starting it and see the engine light blinks EXACTLY five times then stops and not staying on, it means it needs to be smog ready! Make it so; otherwise, you won't pass the smog check, and the DMV will give you hell, as well as BAD mechanics will rip you off pretending that your car has a serious emission problem, which it does NOT!
If that is clogged up, the manifold is clogged up too... I took everything off and cleaned everything.... It was clogged to the max
Very detailed about his work, thxx
Just started following you , i like 👍 your Detailed conversation You're one of the Best I've ever seen on UA-cam Kudos Sir
Appreciate that.
Nicely done ✅. Thanks for sharing.
Love the video! What would be the next step if the cel is still on after resetting?
Read the code and see what it is and let me know.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair its the same code egr insufficient flow
I've also replaced the egr valve as well
Holly Wagner I just reread what you wrote a week ago. If you just reset the code and didn’t actually clean anything out like my video shows, you will get the same code. You see in the video I didn’t replace the EGR valve because it’s not necessary to replace the valve. All you need to do is take the time to follow the steps in the video and spend some time cleaning out the passages as best as you can.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair yeah i had cleaned like in the video and replaced the egr at the same time the light came back on afterwards so I used seafoam as well afterwards and now the light is off
Like ur video ima try it later on my car wont pass smog hope thats the only plroblem
EL DE LA 79 if you have a check engine light on that reads P0401 then yes this video will definitely help.
Helping Hand Auto Repair i just finish 40 mins ago drove the car for a lil bit but light still on
EL DE LA 79 what is the code?
Helping Hand Auto Repair same one p0401
EL DE LA 79 Did you follow the video exactly? You can’t be lazy on cleaning out the entire system. Take the top of the intake manifold off, take the EGR valve off. Everything needs to be clean very good.
Hey don’t get me wrong but couldn’t i just take out the EGR valve and get a wire brush and clean it out. Also get a air hose and a vacuum to finish it up?
You could but taking off the top intake manifold piece allows you to get a much better clean and it allows you to actually see the port that gets clogged up from the egr passage.
I did this needed a cleaning. Did the cleaning procedure. Not too difficult. But now after reinstalling back, car now idles high and low.
Mark Lozano This could have happened from a few things.
1. Do you have a check engine light on?
- YES? Read the code and go from there and let me know what it says.
-NO? Continue on to step 2.
2. Check ALL vacuum hoses that you touched for the correct placement and make sure they are secure. Is the problem fixed?
-YES? All is well.
-NO? Continue to step 3.
3. If you disconnected the coolant hoses from the Idle air control valve (on the back of the manifold) and lots of coolant came out, you need to try and bleed the cooling system again. If air gets trapped in those hoses inside that valve then the sensor can’t regulate airflow correctly and you get this idle hunting like you have. This is usually accompanied by a check engine after you try and go and drive it. Jack the car up or park uphill on a driveway and starting with a COLD engine fill the radiator up completely, leave the cap off. Turn the inside temp full hot and fan speed medium. Start the car up and top off the coolant as needed. Let it warm up for 10 mins or so with the cap off. Squeeze the top and lower hoses to help air escape while it’s running. After 10 mins, put the cap back on loosely and let it idle for another 5-8 mins or so. Then close the cap completely. After it has reached full operating temp go for a drive and see if the idle hunting has gone away.
-YES? All is well
-NO? Continue to step 4.
4. Make sure your Idle air control valve isn’t stuck or broken. Take the IACV back off. Disconnect the electrical connector and the two coolant hoses. Clean the small rotating metal piece inside. It often gets stuck and dirty over time. I use brake cleaner to clean it out then I use wd-40 to lubricate it slightly. Put it back on and bleed the system again.
These are really the only things that can cause idle hunting. Good luck.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair I ended up swapping the iacv and bleed the system again. All works perfect now. Thank you
Helping Hand Auto Repair so I cleaned the intake and yeah I’m getting the idle surge, I replaced the iac recently before doing this job so that should be good, but I keep getting the p0505 code. Yes I’ve bled the system too. Please any ideas? Is the egr valve a potential suspect?
We’re you getting a P0401 code that made you decide to clean the intake?
Helping Hand Auto Repair no actually I was just replacing the rear motor mount, cleaned the intake since I already had it apart cause it was really caked up.
Do you have a trick to get those to bolts out of the egr valve bc mine just want to strip and I sprayed 3 coats of pb blaster on them
I got lucky? Honestly nothing much to do about rusted bolts. You can try using a screw extractor but then you will need to replace the now damaged nuts.
.spray the bolts with A 50 50 mix trans fluid acetone. Let soak. Tap down with hammer to shock and try again
Honda makes a long bore tool for your drill to clean the passages without removing the manifold or using a hanger
I’m sure they do. Been doing it this way for years now with nothing but success
@@HelpingHandAutoRepairAs a fix it guy, I have used various coat hangers for repairs for 40 years. I "temporarily" locked my headlight back in place ten years ago after the plastic position tab broke. With two plyers and some patience you can accomplish much. However, if I am going to do that job on a regular basis, and that's my livelihood, I would definitely invest a small sum in the two piece set. One two foot long carbide tipped flexible drill attachment and a super long, very stiff, flexible muzzle brush. Honda didn't face the recurring problem by redesigning the EGR system but at least dealt with the complaints of their techs by getting the right tools for the job. It gets all the carbon out much faster.
You can clean a rifle with a modified coat hanger and pieces of rag dipped in solvent and oil as I once had to, or use a muzzle brush kit. If you're a gun smith I recommend the purpose tools. It's your time. Appreciate the lesson. Good video.
I completely understand where you are coming from. I however don’t do this for a living. Not even close. I work on friends cars if I want. I don’t get these accords often and as you can tell from my channel that my friends all have random vehicles.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair Oh. Well you are as good as many professionals. I bought a $30 long bore attachment for my hand drill. I use it with penetrating oil on many dirty clogged passages on various engines; And my Hondas but most EGR systems do this. The hard part is getting all that stuff off and back on an old car without breaking anything especially the plastic bit. Good job.
Thanks for the kind words. Have a good one sir.
Hello, do toy can help me my brother? With the vacuum hoses?
I can try what’s up?
good friend greetings I have code 5 in D4 that will be that failure honda accord 2000.
Is the D4 light flashing while driving?
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair
if it keeps flashing always and scan from the bridge and the D4 flashes 5 times
Ok. You need to scan the car and see what code comes up.
I assume you also have a check engine light on?
replace the Transmission solenoid that's where the problem at
Just about to take this on. Any idea why the upper manifold couldn’t be removed completely? Is there a connector or hose that shouldn’t be removed?
I didn’t want to deal with bleeding the coolant so I left the two coolant lines attached to the IACV and throttle body area.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair got it fixed today. Thankful for the instructional you made, made every step very clear.
One thing is that now the engine is revving up and down while idling. Is that to be expected? Or did I mess something up?
@@macmayeda if you took the coolant lines off the IACV on the back of the manifold, it is possible that you let some air into the system. These cars at this age now are notoriously bad for cold start idle hunting. Especially after any work that requires coolant to be drained.
I would advise jacking the front of the car up and bleeding the cooling system. This may help (about a 50/50 shot) if not then you may need to take the IACV off the back of the manifold and try cleaning it out as it does get corrosion on it from coolant and sometimes that seizes up the electromagnetic piece inside that controls the airflow.
Some brake cleaner and a flat head screwdriver and a small brush works wonders with that.
If none of that works AND (I stress AND) you get a check engine light code for Idle air control valve. You may need to replace the valve and bleed the system.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair gotcha - thank you for the help - much appreciated!
@@macmayedawhat happens it work?
Quick question, the boats in the back of the intake manifold… Is one of them supposed to hold a hose? And what happens if you just bolt the intake manifold down?
That’s a great question. I don’t believe a bolt holds a hose from memory. Also what do you mean if you bolt the manifold down?
I just did this and now the engine revs from 2k to 5k, then keeps repeating. At first I noticed that I forgot to plug the throttle sensor back in, but it still did it after I reconnected it. Any suggestions?
Bleed the coolant system. The IACV on the back of the intake manifold probably has an air bubble.
reset the ECU or unplug the battery for about 10 min! mine did the same thing
Gotta try cleaning mines since it has a lot of carbon build up my accord has been sitting for 2 years but starts up fine but it idles high but once you step on the gas or give it a drive it goes back to normal idles but once u turn the vehicle off and turn it back on it idles surges high again I replaced the iac valve cleaned the map sensor but still with the same issue
phi song Did you have a check engine light on for the IACV? If not it probably didn’t need to be replaced. It was probably fine. Here is what I would do:
1. Start the car up and let it warm up for 5 mins.
2. Go for a drive to get it up to normal operating temp. In this time be a little hard on the car. You don’t have to floor it but maybe 60-70% throttle.
3. After it has warmed up all the way, give it 100% throttle a few times throughout the drive. Let it clean itself out.
High idle after the car has been sitting for awhile is completely normal. It should settle down to 650-700rpm as it warms up.
If you have a surging idle (ie idle goes up and down and up and down constantly) after you have driven it then I would use a scanner to scan for an “pending” codes. If there are no codes at all then I would bleed the cooling system.
Hey yea had to head to oreiley to check the codes and yea had 3 codes
P0505 idle air control system
P1738 2nd pressure switch failure
P1164 h02s (a/f sensor) s1 lean range problem
phi song well if you just installed a new IACV, it is either defective or you need to bleed the cooling system properly. An air bubble in the system will cause a surging idle.
P1738 is the transmission solenoid on top of the transmission
The other one is the upstream O2 sensor. This will cause general drivability issues
Helping hand auto repair. Yea the new iacv is probabaly defective but I still do have the old one witch I can clean it and try it out and I’ll bleed the coolant tomorow, i do have a short clip of the vehicle idling seems like a jerking motion idles I’ll post it up on my page
The MAP sensor becomes a IAC valve sensor later in this video?
Nope. The Map sensor is on top of the manifold. The IAC is on the back.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair Yes, I looked at a diagram and saw that. I could not see the IAC and I thought you were talking about the MAP sensor again but did not catch if you said IAC sensor on the back in the video. Anyhow, I am ready to do a full cleaning of the EGR passageway. I took off the EGR valve and cleaned it and have not seen another P0401 code yet. I am however getting a dreaded P1381 code and might remove the alternator and have it tested at O'Reillys for bad diodes. My friends 1998 Odyssey has 180,000 miles on it so I don't want to throw parts at the P1381 code. It gets him where he wants to go and he can't afford to be buying parts. :)
If it is the original distributor, the CYP very well May have failed at that mileage and age.
Hi, thank for this very informative video. I'm curious if this should be done if there is no codes at all. Previously had my 1999 Accord on Non OP for 2 years ( started it every two weeks). Then had a serious injury and didn't touch my car for 3 months. Had several experiences of crank no start. Replaced the battery. Car ran fine. Then out of the blue, had another crank no start. The main relay was changed out. Now car starts fine. But it's always had a surging issue in the mornings after the engine was replaced. For instance, leave the driveway, get to stop sign, make full stop and car surges foward. If I didn't have my seatbelt on, I'd thrust forward into the steering wheel. Car also has a bad high idle while waiting at a stop sign or signal light. I have to put my car in neutral to settle down the idle. Car has 238k miles. IAC and map sensor has already been replaced. New plugs and wires. I'm being told I have a bent or crack flet plate with the engine was replaced. But my trans fluid is great in color and smell and trans makes no noise. Is this worth doing if the engine was replace in August 2017?
Trying to understand all what’s going on.
When you first start the car dead cold, does it start hunting for idle in neutral?
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair no, it's just a tiny bit hesitant to start in the mornings. The idle is getting worse the more I drive it. We're in a tough situation because our 07 Tundra needs a rebuilt trans, but because of the darn pandemic, we can't find a decent shop to rebuild the trans. Which trans has a code for the torque converter clutch. So I have to drive my Honda to get my kids to and from school.
Do you have a video of the car posted on UA-cam? Maybe I can take a listen.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair sorry no I don't. I've been told it's hard to diagnose noise through a video or over the phone.
Does the car surge forward because the rpms keep fluctuating up and down?
I have 2001 Accord LX. I cleaned it awhile ago by watching a different video. Once I start it up, it surges up and down like its reving on it's own. I ask the guy in the video and he said to replace the IAC valve cause cleaner probably got into it through the hole on the throttle and messed it up. It still did it with the new one but the new gasket was broken so I put the old one back on the new cause it looked fine. Still doing it. I decided to do a coolant flush and refill at the same time after I got the new one on cause I didn't know how old the coolant was and I put blue in. I just need to run it to fully bleed it but it's still surging. Sometimes it shows a flashing CEL but it goes away after a few seconds. I scanned it when it first started doing it but theres no codes pertaining to IAC valve. Any suggestions? Thanks!
What codes are you getting or were you getting?
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair I got P1399 and PO301. I've had misfire codes ever since I've had the car and they go away and come back. Doing the cleaning could potentially get rid of the misfire from what I been told/looked up. I didnt get any relating to the IAC valve. I just started it again and it didnt go up and down this time. It just stayed at 2k.
Your car a V6?
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair Nope 4 Cylinder
Well how many miles are on your car? Has the car had a basic ignition tune up done? Plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor? High mileage and unadjusted valves can cause misfires also.
I have clean the egr only. Now my car wont start. Is this the problem why.
MrPheng yang Your car was running. Then you followed this video and now your car won’t start back up?
MrPheng yang I just watched your video. Is the green key light flashing while you’re trying to turn it on?
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair well i just take egr out in clean it then the car won't start no more. Then i find ur video. But I dont want to take the modifold out.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair yes the green light flashing
When I turn the key to off
Too much work! Yikes!
Bro you can’t even see the first whole it’s none existent
Amazing bro thanks
What can’t you see? I clearly explain what and where things are.