Every time I watch your videos I sooo wish I was your apprentice when I was in my teen!! Your informations and explanations is worth gold brother!! No lies!!!! I took Automotive Technician class, learn from friends, family and self taught. But watching your videos is always 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
During the timing process are you supposed to use the same timing notch on the flywheel to bring no1 piston to be on TDC or is there any other timing notch on the flywheel that is special for timing the engine during the high pressure fuel pump timing process apart from the pump itself? Thank you.
@@kennedyonyango101 yes. I always turn the flywheel to the core timing and then remove the fuel pump. If you can. Set the engine to TDC1 and then proceed. But the only way to verify TDC1 is to see the valves. But either way works. TDC1 or TDC6 This allows the plate on the pump to slide through and of course times fuel injection to the piston and injectors.
Loved the video, very impressive. Can you tell me some tips for priming the engine after fuel filter replacement. I feel like not priming properly is causing my pump to go bad.
I don’t have the part number for them. But I recommend you replace them because that is where the fuel manifold is mounted. Even though you are going to torque then you do t want to chance any air being introduced into the system or fuel leaking because of a bad seal.
This may be a silly question for some folks, but what is the specific reason for the eyebrow plate on the high pressure pump? I would think without it, there would be no reason to time the engine before removal or installation.
You are correct in saying the pump would work without the plate. The reason for the plate, is so the fuel pump is timed to the engine. So when the fuel pump is working and injecting fuel it is balanced. It also has to do with vibration, you don't two forces working against each other but instead working together. I once had a truck come to my shop with issues of excessive smoke due to fuel. The timing was correct, but the customer wanted to replace all 6 injectors. Once we dug a little deeper, we found out his drive line was repaired due to a U joint breaking. When the shop replaced the U joint, the yoke was not clocked correctly and caused a vibration bad enough to cause the excessive smoke. We corrected the issue and no more smoke. So timing does matter as does vibration, this is why you have to time the pump to the engine. Sorry for the long explanation. But I hope it helps.
@@CarlosDieselElectric Thanks for the quick response. I'm new to the Detroit world as a Service Manager and I have an old 60 Series/8V71 Technician working in a DD15 in the shop now. Couldn't figure the need for the plate. Thanks for the help.
@ Pedro Fuentes Got another question for you, more technical this time. We have a 2015 Freightliner in the shop with a DD15 which came with a pinging noise when the engine was above idle. My technician trouble shot it to a defective high pressure pump. We changed the pump, got everything primed, engine started and it ran fine for a day. Customer was happy. Now the truck is back and it's pinging again. We changed the fuel filters before we changed the pump trying to find an easy fix for sucking air. We changed all the seals, both the lines going up to the rail, everything. And its pinging again. Any ideas? I know its impossible to diagnose without being on the truck, but any direction at this point will be helpful.
@@zebrasixtwo3116 could be an injector. There are tests you can do pressurize the system and check. Not easy to do though. Check the fuel lines. This has the two fuel filter system. Do you have a hard start? Or just the ping at idle?
@@CarlosDieselElectric It does have a hard start issue also. Either have to wear out your arm on the primer pump or wear out the starter turning the engine over, which also wears out the new HP pump because there's no fuel. Hard start was also an issue before hand which lead to the diagnosis of either the fuel filters causing a sucking air problem or the pump itself. We had the new pump back in and truck running like a Singer sewing machine Tuesday afternoon. Cranked it up Wednesday morning with no problem. Test drove fine and gave it back to the customer. He called us as he was making his first load thanking us for a great job. After he dropped his second load, he called back and said it was pinging again and brought it back yesterday morning. Sure enough, its pinging again. Does it intermittently at idle and continuous above idle. To top off the difficulties, the ECM has been "TINKERED WITH" and we cannot communicate with it. Lucky us.
Ok the 2 high pressure lines that you state to replace and never ever use again, can you please explain the reason why you never use them again? I reused them and it's been running fine
Carbomb Torres good question, the repair manual for the DD15 says to never reuse the lines off the high pressure pump because they may leak. So I have always just replaced them. I don’t want my customers to have any issues down the road with fuel lines leaking and for the around $50-60 it is worth just replacing.
The fittings are a press fit so once you tighten them down the slightly softer material bonds to the harder fitting.. when I was at Isuzu same deal with the injector lines, if you reused them they would leak and fill the engine up with fuel as they were under the rocker cover
Top Tier Logistics yes, you have to set the timing on the engine. Two reasons, (1) this will allow you to remove the high pressure pump without any issues. The plate on the front of the gear will get caught on the inside gear and make it very difficult to remove the pump. (2) the pump timing works with the engine timing so when fuel is pumped into the engine there is a balance. So definitely recommend to set your engine timing first.
The engine has to be TDC. Remove all four bolts and then shimmy the pump out. I have to use an up and down motion. If the timing is off it will not come out because of the plate.
You need to secure the gear, we use a large pipe wrench. Detroit sells something to hold and secure the pump and gear but usually anything they sell is expensive. I’ll look for a part number and see if I can find it.
@@kennedyonyango101 nothing will happen. Space will be very limited when you pull the pump back to get it out. I have always removed the module and the coolant in order to make room when the pump slides out.
Hey brotha any reason why my plate marked T doesn’t line up with tdc on pump when plate is put back on it doesn’t line up with notch only bolts on one way ??
Great question, the engine and the fuel pump have to be timed together so when the pump is injecting it is in sequence (timed) with the pistons going up and down (compression). Technically you can install the pump without the plate and not time it but then that would create issues I have seen a pump over fuel and have a trail of white smoke because the drive line was not installed correctly and was having a slight vibration. I wouldn’t believe if we didn’t experience this at our shop.
Hey Pedro my pump came out timed at six oclock so I guess the engine was on the second rotation. Do I need to put the new one in timed at six oclock or at twelve oclock like you did in the video.
@@CarlosDieselElectric thanks I’m currently doing this I’m self taught but I’m waiting on gaskets for the fuel pump which are back ordered for about 3 months can I use the same gasket with a bit of gasket maker?
@@fishinwithcee3294 yes, you can reuse them, I have due to supply issues. Very small amount of gasket maker and you will be fine. Just torque the bolts and you should be good to go.
Ok check this out I might have an issue. I think my fuel pump is acting up, it's a little too loud at idle. It does loop but it's just loud. I'm going to check for metal shavings in my fuel filter housing and I was gonna check the fuel pressure thru the priming port. 70-90 at idle and 90-120 at 1800 rpms ...what else should I check for?
Sounds like it could be the quantity control valve. As far as the fuel pump possibly going out, metal shavings is a good indicator. Hard or long cranking could be a good thing to look out for. Let me see what the book says on fuel pressure
Hey , i did a head gasket on dd15 , i did not want to fire up after that, checked pressures and replaced the fuel module as well, still same problem. Can you guide me?
You have air in the system, check the timing or bad injectors. I’ve had injectors go bad after being removed during repairs. I always place injectors in a bucket of diesel. One for each injector. I installed them when I was ready and 5 of them were no good. They locked up.
@@davindersingh-qk6gf you can start with cracking one injector line at a time to see if fuel is present at the common rail while you are cranking the engine.
@@CarlosDieselElectric so i checked i get some fuel but with low pressure. Then i connected my laptop and checked , i am getting 0 LPPO pressure. Then i replaced the fuel module but still 0 LPpO pressure
They do sell a device that holds it in place, looks like a vice that allows you to secure the fuel pump in place and the gear while you torque it. We use a vise that we made to secure the fuel pump and then we use a pipe wrench to hold the gear while the other person will torque it in place. Then you can simply turn the gear using a strap to the timing mark. Little patience but it can be done.
@@CarlosDieselElectric thanks for all the tips I have everything assembled i just wanna know if filling the fuel filters and priming it with the self primer is enough or a special primer tool required I don’t want to mess up the injectors
@@fishinwithcee3294 you should be fine with just filling up the fuel filter module. Just use the manual pump until it gets really difficult to push down. May take about 300 pumps but you should be fine.
Those are two different labors. Fuel pump takes about 8-10 hours (labor). So depending on the labor rate of the shop. Air compressor takes about 4-6 hours (labor).
Carlos Diesel Electric I haven’t taken off the nut yet, but I noticed that a 36 mm fits. I’m going to try a 35 mm. I don’t have a 1-3/8” socket. I guess I’ll just have to be careful to keep the socket straight and centered to not strip the nut. Thank you.
The Reviewer I’m sure used the socket that best fit at that time. It could be metric but I may not have had it at the time. Use what works best for you and you will fine.
Hello sir. Question: I have had that rough idling for a while. And I’m considering to fix it? My point is do I need to change the whole fuel pump since I’m replacing the fuel quantity valve? Would appreciate to expedite the respond? Thank u 🙏
Ahmed gaas: replace the whole pump. The fuel quantity valve by itself without the pump is like 600.00$. If you decide to big the pump which includes the fuel quantity valve for roughly 800.00$. Id replace the whole pump.
Replace the entire pump ...I replaced the quantity control valve 8 months ago and now I'm having to replace the entire pump. $700 for the quantity valve plus $1600 for pump so $2300 altogether in 8 months ...
The quantity control valve by itself is expensive, around $600 plus labor. The high pressure fuel pump comes complete with the quantity control valve but involves more labor. How old is the fuel pump? How many miles are on the truck? This may be a deciding factor.
I have a DD15 that’s throwing fault code for leakage in high pressure line..The original Hp fuel pump is a 3 line frieghtliner is telling me I need to reduce it down to a 2 line cause the 3 line is obsolete?any truth to that
Hello Mr Pedro, I’m changing my fuel pump by watching your video, but I don’t know how to pull off the gear from the old pump, can you give some advise please?
@@adamabdullah4829 yes, try using an air impact. If you try by hand, wrench or ratchet that will not work. It has to be fast in order to remove the nut. Then use the extractor to remove the gear.
We made our own, Detroit Diesel does make one. It is designed to hold the pump in place while you install the gear, torque and set it to TDC 1. Now if you are referring to the engine, that I purchased my local distributor.
I believe that depends on a few factors, in my opinion one of them being fuel level. There are a lot of drivers out there that like to run their fuel tanks on low to maximize the dollar. But that is probably one of the biggest mistakes. The DD 13/15/16 HI Pressure fuel pump needs the fuel not only to supply fuel but the fuel also helps cool and lubricate so by running low this will minimize the life of the HI Pressure pump. Hope this helps.
@@CarlosDieselElectric I had one go bad on a company truck a few years back, ran it too long and had metal shavings everywhere. That truck was probably around 400k miles, they flushed lines and tanks, but it still got to injectors later on. Truck I am in now has 425k and is making the noise the truck from before did. Lost it's prime, had it towed to Freightliner in El Paso. Will see how it goes. :/
There is a small check valve inside the housing. Check the inlet line coming from the fuel tank to the Davco. You have to remove it, remove the fitting and inside there will be a spring and ball ( like the size of a marble). Something might be getting stuck or not allowing it to return. Start there.
Timing has to be on point. Make sure your lines are tight (30 ft lbs). Prime the system and then start the engine. Let the truck run or do a parked regen to help get the air out of the fuel system.
@@CarlosDieselElectric could old coolant also turn black? Mine has been looking dark and its old coolant went to mechanic today and he checked the coolant and he says there is no oil or diesel in it. He says old coolant could turn dark if it’s old is it true?
@@la2toronto789 check to see if you have a coolant filter. The newer DD engines do not have it but if your truck does have it. It is located next to the oil filter.
@@anthonymichael811 great question. I imagine there might be an issue with fuel injection timing. Although if you are just removing and then reinstalling it without moving anything you should be ok. For example if you are just removing the oring.
I have a freightliner 2010 DD15, it's burning 1 gallon of oil every 200 miles, It has never lost engine power and it doesn't smoke through the exhaust or have any oil leaks, I removed the fuel filter and found oil... How's the oil getting into the fuel? If somebody has had a similar problem please let me know...
@@omarrobles7723 My guess the delete may have something to do with the issue you have. Some deletes may not be done right and cause over fueling and the engine to run HOT internally. This will cause a problem down the road. Try replacing your fuel filters, run the engine and the check them after to see of perhaps you may have just had dirty fuel. If the problem persists then you may have to dig deeper.
Greg J Feeney great question, my customer just wanted to have it replaced. He had over a 1 million miles on the truck and just didn’t want to any issues with the fuel pump. Other than that, the truck ran great and did not have issues with starting.
Beknazar Mamytbekov the cost of the hi Pressure fuel pump depends on which one you have. There are two, Gen 1 and Gen 2. Depends on the fuel filter type you have. For example, I believe the 3 filter system used the Gen 1 and the 2 filter system uses the Gen 2. Which fuel filter system do you have?
Not sure how much for parts because there has been an increase from Detroit. Which seems to be changing weekly. Labor is around 8-10 hours. So around $800-950. Recommend to replace the fuel filters at the same time or the warranty may be void. Detroit is starting to really be strict
Do not follow this guys directions, you cannot put the pipe connection on the pump before you put the pump back on the moter, the two right side bolts cannot be put in with the pipe attachments on the right sideof the pump.
Remove the small fuel filter and check for any metal debris. This maybe a sign of failure. Does the engine just cut off or seem like it is starving for fuel?
Regardless of what the fuel lines are made of, I have never had any fuel line leak in my truck and it has over 900k miles. Why fix something that doesn’t need fixing.
Every time I watch your videos I sooo wish I was your apprentice when I was in my teen!!
Your informations and explanations is worth gold brother!! No lies!!!! I took Automotive Technician class, learn from friends, family and self taught. But watching your videos is always 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
This Channel deserves more subscribers. Lots of good stuffs and info
Thank you
During the timing process are you supposed to use the same timing notch on the flywheel to bring no1 piston to be on TDC or is there any other timing notch on the flywheel that is special for timing the engine during the high pressure fuel pump timing process apart from the pump itself? Thank you.
@@kennedyonyango101 yes. I always turn the flywheel to the core timing and then remove the fuel pump. If you can. Set the engine to TDC1 and then proceed. But the only way to verify TDC1 is to see the valves. But either way works. TDC1 or TDC6
This allows the plate on the pump to slide through and of course times fuel injection to the piston and injectors.
Help alot , thanks , God bless you guys
Did the same thing only question does it have to be on top dead center 1 or 6
I personally always go TDC 1, then I remove the fuel pump and install it.
Loved the video, very impressive. Can you tell me some tips for priming the engine after fuel filter replacement. I feel like not priming properly is causing my pump to go bad.
I have a video on fuel filter replacement. I think I have it under oil change part 2.
@@CarlosDieselElectric thank you!
I'm setting up to do one today.. Wish me luck
You got this, take your time. Set up TDC and go step by step. If you need help let me know.
at 4:40 of this video, is there a part number for that manifold? Or maybe a link to both of them in case of need to replace? Thanks
I don’t have the part number for them. But I recommend you replace them because that is where the fuel manifold is mounted. Even though you are going to torque then you do t want to chance any air being introduced into the system or fuel leaking because of a bad seal.
@@CarlosDieselElectric Okay, thank you, i will try to source the part.
This may be a silly question for some folks, but what is the specific reason for the eyebrow plate on the high pressure pump? I would think without it, there would be no reason to time the engine before removal or installation.
You are correct in saying the pump would work without the plate. The reason for the plate, is so the fuel pump is timed to the engine. So when the fuel pump is working and injecting fuel it is balanced. It also has to do with vibration, you don't two forces working against each other but instead working together.
I once had a truck come to my shop with issues of excessive smoke due to fuel. The timing was correct, but the customer wanted to replace all 6 injectors. Once we dug a little deeper, we found out his drive line was repaired due to a U joint breaking. When the shop replaced the U joint, the yoke was not clocked correctly and caused a vibration bad enough to cause the excessive smoke. We corrected the issue and no more smoke. So timing does matter as does vibration, this is why you have to time the pump to the engine.
Sorry for the long explanation. But I hope it helps.
@@CarlosDieselElectric Thanks for the quick response. I'm new to the Detroit world as a Service Manager and I have an old 60 Series/8V71 Technician working in a DD15 in the shop now. Couldn't figure the need for the plate.
Thanks for the help.
@ Pedro Fuentes Got another question for you, more technical this time. We have a 2015 Freightliner in the shop with a DD15 which came with a pinging noise when the engine was above idle. My technician trouble shot it to a defective high pressure pump. We changed the pump, got everything primed, engine started and it ran fine for a day. Customer was happy. Now the truck is back and it's pinging again. We changed the fuel filters before we changed the pump trying to find an easy fix for sucking air. We changed all the seals, both the lines going up to the rail, everything. And its pinging again. Any ideas?
I know its impossible to diagnose without being on the truck, but any direction at this point will be helpful.
@@zebrasixtwo3116 could be an injector. There are tests you can do pressurize the system and check. Not easy to do though. Check the fuel lines. This has the two fuel filter system.
Do you have a hard start? Or just the ping at idle?
@@CarlosDieselElectric It does have a hard start issue also. Either have to wear out your arm on the primer pump or wear out the starter turning the engine over, which also wears out the new HP pump because there's no fuel. Hard start was also an issue before hand which lead to the diagnosis of either the fuel filters causing a sucking air problem or the pump itself. We had the new pump back in and truck running like a Singer sewing machine Tuesday afternoon. Cranked it up Wednesday morning with no problem. Test drove fine and gave it back to the customer. He called us as he was making his first load thanking us for a great job. After he dropped his second load, he called back and said it was pinging again and brought it back yesterday morning. Sure enough, its pinging again. Does it intermittently at idle and continuous above idle. To top off the difficulties, the ECM has been "TINKERED WITH" and we cannot communicate with it. Lucky us.
Ok the 2 high pressure lines that you state to replace and never ever use again, can you please explain the reason why you never use them again? I reused them and it's been running fine
Carbomb Torres good question, the repair manual for the DD15 says to never reuse the lines off the high pressure pump because they may leak. So I have always just replaced them. I don’t want my customers to have any issues down the road with fuel lines leaking and for the around $50-60 it is worth just replacing.
@@CarlosDieselElectricHey thanks for the reply, yeah that's sounds reasonable. I'm gonna change them out ...I don't need another breakdown over $60
The fittings are a press fit so once you tighten them down the slightly softer material bonds to the harder fitting.. when I was at Isuzu same deal with the injector lines, if you reused them they would leak and fill the engine up with fuel as they were under the rocker cover
How do I know to make sure it’s timed correctly before I remove the one on the truck
Or better question how can I get it to tdc to time it before removing
@carlos diesel electric Okay so Carlos I have to barr my engine to either TDC 1 or TDC 6 before removing the Fuel pump DD15
Top Tier Logistics yes, you have to set the timing on the engine. Two reasons, (1) this will allow you to remove the high pressure pump without any issues. The plate on the front of the gear will get caught on the inside gear and make it very difficult to remove the pump.
(2) the pump timing works with the engine timing so when fuel is pumped into the engine there is a balance.
So definitely recommend to set your engine timing first.
@@CarlosDieselElectric thank you Carlos man.
I would like know if you have flush the fuel system and change all the injectors also
Cant seem to pull my pump out ? All 4 bolts off ? Pri bar and hammer? Did you have difficulty? Thank you.
The engine has to be TDC. Remove all four bolts and then shimmy the pump out. I have to use an up and down motion.
If the timing is off it will not come out because of the plate.
Nice video. How do you torque or loosen large but with out the shaft moving.
You need to secure the gear, we use a large pipe wrench. Detroit sells something to hold and secure the pump and gear but usually anything they sell is expensive. I’ll look for a part number and see if I can find it.
@@CarlosDieselElectric thanks for taking the time to reply. Great videos, looks like you know the dd15 very well.
Would it be the basically the same on a DD13? It's a 2015 Freightliner cascadia
Yes. Very similar
What will happen if you remove a high pressure fuel pump without draining the coolant?
@@kennedyonyango101 nothing will happen. Space will be very limited when you pull the pump back to get it out.
I have always removed the module and the coolant in order to make room when the pump slides out.
I need the link for the video of how to set timing to pull the pump
I made a video, check out my UA-cam page and look the videos.
Amigo donde te encuentras para ver si puedo llevarte mi troqué dd15 estoy en Seattle WA
Hey brotha any reason why my plate marked T doesn’t line up with tdc on pump when plate is put back on it doesn’t line up with notch only bolts on one way ??
The notch on the spindle I’m assuming that lines with the gear is not tdc for the pump go off the t on the plate where it lines up?
David is correct, the notch on the spindle is for the gear only and not the TDC on the plate. Email me a picture if you want to.
Why does it have to be timed exactly? What is it doing to need to be in timing ?
Great question, the engine and the fuel pump have to be timed together so when the pump is injecting it is in sequence (timed) with the pistons going up and down (compression). Technically you can install the pump without the plate and not time it but then that would create issues
I have seen a pump over fuel and have a trail of white smoke because the drive line was not installed correctly and was having a slight vibration. I wouldn’t believe if we didn’t experience this at our shop.
Hey Pedro my pump came out timed at six oclock so I guess the engine was on the second rotation. Do I need to put the new one in timed at six oclock or at twelve oclock like you did in the video.
It’s ok if it came out at the 6 position.
I always install them at the 12 position and you are good to go.
Is there a video that shows how to prime the system after installing the fuel pump
That is coming up next, I am working on that. Hopefully it will be helpful.
@@CarlosDieselElectric thanks I’m currently doing this I’m self taught but I’m waiting on gaskets for the fuel pump which are back ordered for about 3 months can I use the same gasket with a bit of gasket maker?
@@fishinwithcee3294 yes, you can reuse them, I have due to supply issues. Very small amount of gasket maker and you will be fine. Just torque the bolts and you should be good to go.
Ok check this out I might have an issue. I think my fuel pump is acting up, it's a little too loud at idle. It does loop but it's just loud. I'm going to check for metal shavings in my fuel filter housing and I was gonna check the fuel pressure thru the priming port. 70-90 at idle and 90-120 at 1800 rpms ...what else should I check for?
Sounds like it could be the quantity control valve.
As far as the fuel pump possibly going out, metal shavings is a good indicator. Hard or long cranking could be a good thing to look out for.
Let me see what the book says on fuel pressure
@@CarlosDieselElectric hey thanks for the reply. We really appreciate your videos since alot of us can't be a in person customer
@@carbombtorres1761 you are welcome. I try to reply to everyone and help as much as possible.
Pedro Fuentes, dam bro. You are the best. Thanks for you expertise. Awesome explaining everything to an owner operator. Many blessings, my brother.
Buenas tardes soy nuevo suscriptor en este vídeo dijiste que una ves que quitemos las lines no volverlas a usar a cuales te referías gracias
Hey , i did a head gasket on dd15 , i did not want to fire up after that, checked pressures and replaced the fuel module as well, still same problem.
Can you guide me?
You have air in the system, check the timing or bad injectors. I’ve had injectors go bad after being removed during repairs. I always place injectors in a bucket of diesel. One for each injector. I installed them when I was ready and 5 of them were no good. They locked up.
How to test injectors Sir?
@@davindersingh-qk6gf you can start with cracking one injector line at a time to see if fuel is present at the common rail while you are cranking the engine.
@@CarlosDieselElectric so i checked i get some fuel but with low pressure. Then i connected my laptop and checked , i am getting 0 LPPO pressure. Then i replaced the fuel module but still 0 LPpO pressure
How do you keep the gear from rotating whil trying to torque it
They do sell a device that holds it in place, looks like a vice that allows you to secure the fuel pump in place and the gear while you torque it. We use a vise that we made to secure the fuel pump and then we use a pipe wrench to hold the gear while the other person will torque it in place. Then you can simply turn the gear using a strap to the timing mark. Little patience but it can be done.
@@CarlosDieselElectric thanks for all the tips I have everything assembled i just wanna know if filling the fuel filters and priming it with the self primer is enough or a special primer tool required I don’t want to mess up the injectors
@@fishinwithcee3294 you should be fine with just filling up the fuel filter module. Just use the manual pump until it gets really difficult to push down. May take about 300 pumps but you should be fine.
on the fuel pump i removed it has single seals on the manifolds do I have to replace them
I would recommend that they be replaced.
Quick question what would the total cost be for replacing a air compressor and fuel pump at the same time?
Those are two different labors.
Fuel pump takes about 8-10 hours (labor). So depending on the labor rate of the shop.
Air compressor takes about 4-6 hours (labor).
Big thumbs up mate
allan mitchell thank you
What socket size is required for the gear nut? I know a special socket is sold, but would a regular socket also work?
The Reviewer when I get to work tomorrow I can double check for you.
The Reviewer I use a 1 and 3/8 socket. But I did have to machine the outside tip so that it can fit.
Carlos Diesel Electric
I haven’t taken off the nut yet, but I noticed that a 36 mm fits. I’m going to try a 35 mm. I don’t have a 1-3/8” socket. I guess I’ll just have to be careful to keep the socket straight and centered to not strip the nut. Thank you.
The Reviewer I’m sure used the socket that best fit at that time. It could be metric but I may not have had it at the time. Use what works best for you and you will fine.
Carlos Diesel Electric
So the socket size for my fuel pump gear was 36 mm. I tried 35, but it didn’t fit.
Hello sir. Question: I have had that rough idling for a while. And I’m considering to fix it? My point is do I need to change the whole fuel pump since I’m replacing the fuel quantity valve? Would appreciate to expedite the respond? Thank u 🙏
Ahmed gaas: replace the whole pump. The fuel quantity valve by itself without the pump is like 600.00$. If you decide to big the pump which includes the fuel quantity valve for roughly 800.00$. Id replace the whole pump.
Replace the entire pump ...I replaced the quantity control valve 8 months ago and now I'm having to replace the entire pump. $700 for the quantity valve plus $1600 for pump so $2300 altogether in 8 months ...
The quantity control valve by itself is expensive, around $600 plus labor. The high pressure fuel pump comes complete with the quantity control valve but involves more labor.
How old is the fuel pump? How many miles are on the truck? This may be a deciding factor.
7.62x 39 thank u bro I’m thinking about it to but whole thing then put iron when I’m off
Carlos Diesel Electric thank u bro
Loud rattling noise coming from driver side at idle. Any idea ? I’m hearing it’s the fuel pump. What do you think ?
Yes
I have a DD15 that’s throwing fault code for leakage in high pressure line..The original Hp fuel pump is a 3 line frieghtliner is telling me I need to reduce it down to a 2 line cause the 3 line is obsolete?any truth to that
The three fuel filter system is obsolete and the two filter system is the updated version.
@@CarlosDieselElectric will it hurt to keep running the three filter system ?
Hello Mr Pedro, I’m changing my fuel pump by watching your video, but I don’t know how to pull off the gear from the old pump, can you give some advise please?
I use a pulley extractor. The gear does get stuck on the shaft so don’t use a hammer.
@@CarlosDieselElectric thank you sir for video and all! Keep doing more videos like this please 👍👍👍
@@CarlosDieselElectric I’m trying to remove the nut but everything is rotating together, I have to reinforce the pulley somehow to remove the nut
@@adamabdullah4829 yes, try using an air impact. If you try by hand, wrench or ratchet that will not work. It has to be fast in order to remove the nut. Then use the extractor to remove the gear.
@@CarlosDieselElectric yes I was using socket wrench, that’s why maybe, thank you so very much, it was so helpful to watch your video 👍👍👍
Where can I get the Tooth Locking Tool from?
We made our own, Detroit Diesel does make one. It is designed to hold the pump in place while you install the gear, torque and set it to TDC 1. Now if you are referring to the engine, that I purchased my local distributor.
What is the life expectancy on those fuel pumps or how many miles will they go
I believe that depends on a few factors, in my opinion one of them being fuel level. There are a lot of drivers out there that like to run their fuel tanks on low to maximize the dollar. But that is probably one of the biggest mistakes.
The DD 13/15/16 HI Pressure fuel pump needs the fuel not only to supply fuel but the fuel also helps cool and lubricate so by running low this will minimize the life of the HI Pressure pump.
Hope this helps.
@@CarlosDieselElectric I had one go bad on a company truck a few years back, ran it too long and had metal shavings everywhere. That truck was probably around 400k miles, they flushed lines and tanks, but it still got to injectors later on.
Truck I am in now has 425k and is making the noise the truck from before did. Lost it's prime, had it towed to Freightliner in El Paso. Will see how it goes. :/
@@CarlosDieselElectric I am one of the guys that drive until the light comes on, at least lots of the time. Looks like I need to change my ways.
@@mikefeddersen2476 hope it goes well for you.
This is a common thing to wear out on the dd series engines ??
If it lasts 400,000 miles you are lucky
Hey bro my davco water seperator is getting drain when I'm driving and u have to add diesel to started again and nobody knows what the problem is
There is a small check valve inside the housing. Check the inlet line coming from the fuel tank to the Davco. You have to remove it, remove the fitting and inside there will be a spring and ball ( like the size of a marble). Something might be getting stuck or not allowing it to return. Start there.
Thank you
Carlos cómo estás pregunta cómo pongo a tiempo el motor gracias
Excelente video
DD15 valve adjustment part 1 es un video que ise y te dice comp poner el motor a tiempo.
Thank u so much … great video
What's the time frame on doing entire replacement?
The job takes about 8 hours.
Importante tus vídeos si pudieras hacerlos en español nos ayudarás mucho mas
Ricardo Delgadillo gracias. Voy hacer más videos en español.
Do you have a shop or Roadservice
We have a shop in Montebello, Ca.
I already install 2 the emissions gasket keep tearing and they are brand new why does it keep tearing
Are you referring to the gaskets on the side of the fuel pump?
That one that take seal on the black emissions case it’s take ox of the and one always popped
That one that take seal on the black emissions case it’s take ox of the and one always popped
That one that take seal on the black emissions case it’s take ox of the and one always popped
That one that take seal on the black emissions case it’s take ox of the and one always popped
I replaced the HP pump and the truck starts and stops why does this happen?
Timing has to be on point. Make sure your lines are tight (30 ft lbs). Prime the system and then start the engine. Let the truck run or do a parked regen to help get the air out of the fuel system.
Why is the coolant reservoir black?
Could be a few things.
Exhaust gas from EGR cooler
Oil from the oil cooler seals
Fuel from the injector cups.
@@CarlosDieselElectric could old coolant also turn black?
Mine has been looking dark and its old coolant went to mechanic today and he checked the coolant and he says there is no oil or diesel in it. He says old coolant could turn dark if it’s old is it true?
@@la2toronto789 possible, did you replace the coolant filter?
@@CarlosDieselElectric no I have never replaced it!
@@la2toronto789 check to see if you have a coolant filter. The newer DD engines do not have it but if your truck does have it. It is located next to the oil filter.
Does it matter if it’s TDC AT 1 or 6 ??
It should not matter. But I always have the engine at TDC1 just to be sure.
This way when I install the timing plate onto the pump it is correct
@@CarlosDieselElectric I have a question what would happen if the timing was on the b and not the t ?
@@anthonymichael811 great question. I imagine there might be an issue with fuel injection timing. Although if you are just removing and then reinstalling it without moving anything you should be ok. For example if you are just removing the oring.
@@CarlosDieselElectric if it was on B it wouldn't allow fuel up to hp side? Cause cranking?
I have a freightliner 2010 DD15, it's burning 1 gallon of oil every 200 miles, It has never lost engine power and it doesn't smoke through the exhaust or have any oil leaks, I removed the fuel filter and found oil... How's the oil getting into the fuel? If somebody has had a similar problem please let me know...
How many miles are on the truck? Also, does it have a DPF delete?
@@CarlosDieselElectric 720K, the dpf was deleted about 2 years ago (120K miles)...
@@omarrobles7723 My guess the delete may have something to do with the issue you have. Some deletes may not be done right and cause over fueling and the engine to run HOT internally. This will cause a problem down the road. Try replacing your fuel filters, run the engine and the check them after to see of perhaps you may have just had dirty fuel. If the problem persists then you may have to dig deeper.
Medio exagerado omarcito
What did you need to replace the pump?
Greg J Feeney great question, my customer just wanted to have it replaced. He had over a 1 million miles on the truck and just didn’t want to any issues with the fuel pump. Other than that, the truck ran great and did not have issues with starting.
how can i buy new pump? im here i. philliphines
That I am not sure of, contact Detroit. Maybe they can help you out
How much would coast you for replacement?
Beknazar Mamytbekov the cost of the hi Pressure fuel pump depends on which one you have. There are two, Gen 1 and Gen 2. Depends on the fuel filter type you have. For example, I believe the 3 filter system used the Gen 1 and the 2 filter system uses the Gen 2.
Which fuel filter system do you have?
I like how he says "okay" after every sentence and on the sign on the drain it also says "drain okay".
You should count how many times I say “again”
I’ll be honest with you, you didn’t have to remove the oil filter housing to get to it.
You mean the fuel filter housing? I’ve never tried without removing. I guess it is possible.
How do u time it
Mike Wilson time the pump? Or time the engine in order to work on the pump?
Well both i guess
I almost did one of theese for my customers but i didnt do it becasue the timong part i didnt wanna fuck nothing up
I do know u gotta flush the lines out.... cuz metal from the pump
And what is the labor rate?
I told customer 1000 to change it to low?
When I get home, let me respond to the messages with more time so I can address them correctly.
How much for the job
Not sure how much for parts because there has been an increase from Detroit. Which seems to be changing weekly.
Labor is around 8-10 hours. So around $800-950.
Recommend to replace the fuel filters at the same time or the warranty may be void. Detroit is starting to really be strict
i need Detroit fuel pump. part No. 23536661. From where can i purchase it?
I would try Freightliner, what City do you live in?
@@CarlosDieselElectric I live in Asia. I have friends in Europe and USA. If u could kindly share the source details, I shall contact them.
Regards
Do not follow this guys directions, you cannot put the pipe connection on the pump before you put the pump back on the moter, the two right side bolts cannot be put in with the pipe attachments on the right sideof the pump.
Manual says 10hrs labor I've done them in 12/13 ain't no way in 10hrs 😅 there so much crap piled on these pos
@@neighborhudsnipr9626 I agree. The book doesn’t take into account the application.
@CarlosDieselElectric they probably did it when the engine was out an slow paced 😆
Adras please
Ok what’s the address
659 S Maple Ave. Montebello, Ca90640
“how to remove fuel pump” -cuts to fuel pump completely off the truck without showing anything
Remove the small fuel filter and check for any metal debris. This maybe a sign of failure. Does the engine just cut off or seem like it is starving for fuel?
I had a technician say my dd15 had engine bark and I would need a new fuel pump ..$4300 part and labor ..does that sound right?
@@TopUpLogisticsketho karaea c
For a new pump? Sounds about right
@@TopUpLogistics hallo Bro same me problem
Says a lot about a Detroit when they cannot make stainless steel fuel lines that last 500,000 miles.
Regardless of what the fuel lines are made of, I have never had any fuel line leak in my truck and it has over 900k miles. Why fix something that doesn’t need fixing.
U don’t have to remove fuel module bruh
I’m pretty sure you can do it without. But for me, I don’t mind the extra work and room.
السلام عليكم
Fuck why they made so complicated
It can be at first but once you’ve done it. It really does become easier.
It is a lot more difficult on the Cascadia with the short nose hood.
Hallo hu much aall
Approximately $4200 for a new fuel pump. Not a factory reman.
If you have a Cascadia with the short nose like on the DD13. It will cost more
@@CarlosDieselElectric my Brother right naw stake Chicago IL ??
How do u time it … ?
Turn the engine over to top dead center, line up the two markers and bobs ur uncle