Well. I talked with a man at a local Chicago Sprinter repair and he said to check for a voltage drop via the neg cable at the battery. There was a 4.5 Volt drop and $50 later for a new cable and all is good. Hope this helps you as it is a common problem with T1N models. the new ignition switch was a good choice and then the replaced neg battery cable. VR
van man hi, thanks for trying to help, I made sure power to inverter that was installed for lift gate and power taking off of that to amplifier was disconnedted at battery. Nonetheless the ecm 15 amp fuse continues to blow immediatley upon turning the key to ignition contact
I offer loaner ECM sets to put in your van. If the problem is resolved you can send your set to SOS for repair and keep driving with my set installed. When you get your set back and installed, send my set back to me for a refund of most of your payment.
Hey sir I have 06 and I'm not getting any volts to pin 30 on my starter relay. I checked all my fuses under the wheel and the seat all checked out. I can't find a wire diagram that shows where the 30 pin gets it's power from do you have any advice. Thanks
Check the power distribution block on the front of the battery, ensuring voltage at the bottom of each fuse. Some fuses under steering wheel won't have power without the headlights on, others still won't. I suggest pulling every fuse that isn't easily tested good for 12v on both sides, for good visual inspection. Too many fuses look* good from a quick scan across them all 'in-place'.
Am I following the logic correctly that if the glow plug light stays on (along with all the warning dash lights-maybe a bulb test not the plugs), aux fan humming, no response when turning the key switch to the start position (ie, courtesy light doesn’t dim..no sign of any current draw), and the pin 1, 3, 5 show 12+V with 44 grounded, there is nowhere else to look (hope?) than the ECU? I have an 06 T1N Itasca Navion….86k miles, fairly gentle life I think, but no crank-no start came out of nowhere. Only prior issue noted was an occasional glow plug error when starting 1st time after sitting while…which I gathered could have been due to low voltage, a bad glow plug , or an ECU problem (or all of the above, right?)….so, maybe ECU wins?
I believe that is correct, when all three pins have expected 12v and the fan comes on with key, the ECM is failing to boot up. SOSdiagnostics.com is well known for this specific repair. I offer a loaner ECM to members of our support group. $650 refundable deposit & $150 gets an ECM set with instructions to: a) Prove ECM is the problem. b) Keep your van running while SOS repairs your ECM. c) 1-on1 assistance solving this problem forever.
@@FloridaVanMan thank you for the reply! You're doing good stuff in the automotive (or van, as it were) world here. I'm guessing that something with my battery recharge methods damaged the ECU. That's a routine I've been doing for 35 years (obviously, not with T1Ns) and prior to this week I thought I was always reasonably careful.
aha , so my 2004 t1n sprinter has this now classic no start with cooling fan coming on ,, I went through the diagnostics showing all is good meaning my problem is ecm.. But But after the test it started. ok great and started again , next day it struggled to try and start then reverted to the cooling fan coming on and no start conditions continued. Tried the elec.test again no change… next day activated that #44 pin again a few times and the van again started. Does this intermittent problem still point to ECM. i’d like to personally thank you very very much for your help with all of our sprinters. I don’t think I would still own it if it were not for the community of help, mostly you Bill.
Yes, that does point to the ECM being at fault. The way it starts after the test lets us wonder if it would have started just prior to the test, and thereby wonder if the intermittent symptoms are hiding when we look for them. But very likely the ECM is at fault. This is not a good* idea but it works. Next time it won't start, get an 18 or 20volt drill battery or other SMALL battery in that voltage range. Connect the ground of that small battery to the ground of the van battery. With a wire on the +18volt just tap the van battery. The smaller battery will just kick the ECM. It is too small to raise the voltage for more than an instant, but that instant is all we need. This will create a spark when you tap the 18volt wire to the 12volt battery. I don't suggest doing this... but it worked for me hundreds of times before having my ECM repaired. This MIGHT cause your ECM to become unrepairable so use at won risk.
If you happen to be working on a good van could you unplug your maf and turn ignition on to see what voltage you got from ground to both yellow / green and yellow / blue ? On my good van I have 5v on both of these wires with ignition on and maf unplugged. On my problem van I only have 5v at the yellow/ green and nothing at yellow / blue. If I plug maf in then I get 1.5-1.6v fluctuations on the yellow /blue wire
We have a video on testing the MAF but the engine must run for that and considering which video we are commenting under, I'm guessing yours won't start. One on one support like that is available as a member benefit. These videos are made possible by viewers like you. Please consider membership. floridavanman.com/donate/
I have that intermittent start problem when the cooling fan comes on with the key with my 2005 T!N. How do you trouble shoot that when everything seems to be working? I'm afraid I'm going to be stranded somewhere. HELP me ts this when everything is working at home. What could be working fine sometime and then quit at another time??
That is not an uncommon problem. We need to do this test in the video when the van won't start. If we find one of the 3 pins not getting power we can fix the van. But if all three pins get power and the fan still comes on the failing circuit is inside the ECM. I just got 2 ECM units back from SOSdiagnostics.com fixing this problem.
Thanks so much for this video, its very helpful. I feel like I'm super close but I'm not quite understanding my issue just yet. I hope you can help. I have a 2005 T1N, and with the key in the on position, the car won't crank, wont start, and the radiator fan turns on. With the key in the ON position, I checked the 16 and 17 fuses under the steering wheel and they don't show any voltage on either side, although both have been verified good. With the key removed, I pulled the ECM down and checked 1, 3, and 5 on the BCM with the 44 clicked, and I get voltage on all three. Does this sound like a fuse box issue, ECM issue, or possibly faulty ground wiring coming from the battery through the firewall?
Internal ECM issue. The test showing voltage at all three pins confirms the van is sending voltage to the ECM on those three circuits, as it should. The fan coming on and no-crank tells us the ECM is not outputting voltage on one of those circuits. Before we condemn the ECM please check fuse #7 & #18. I think all the fuses will get power when the key is turned on but I'm not 100% sure. For a small fee I offer a loaner ECM for proving the problem and keeping the van running while you send your ECM for repair. I send an ECM and associated parts with help and instruction video showing you how to install the 3 parts. If that solves your problems you will send your ECM and associated parts for repair. When your parts come back and are reinstalled in your van you can send my loaner parts back for a refund. This service is only available to support group members. Membership starts here: patreon.com/Florida_Van_Man?Link&
Thanks for your quick reply - I double checked and #7 and #18 have voltage, but #16 and #17 don't have any voltage, just like all the headlamp fuses (unless I turn those features on). Some of my grounding wires coming through the firewall look like there was excessive heat, as the insulation has come off a bit. I was wondering if the ECM might be working when 1, 3, and 5 show voltage because the 44 had a new ground from our multimeter as you instructed. Do you think the grounding path is worth me diving deeper in or is that a non issue based on the tests you show in the video (maybe we eliminated that possibility and I just didn't realize it :))
I checked the voltages on all those fuses yesterday while working on another van. They all get voltage when the key is on so finding why yours are not getting voltage will be a big step in finding the problem. Check the fuses at the front of your battery. 2 or 3 of them feed various circuits under the driver seat. @@jamescarr-nelson3077
Thanks for your help earlier, I thought I got through this but 5 months later and the problem has resurfaced several times after thinking I fixed it. The issue is intermittent so troubleshooting is a bit difficult. When the issue arises, I don't get voltage to the 86 pin of the starter relay in fuse box 2 (my understanding is I should be getting 12v). In addition, I don't get continuity to ground from the 85 pin. I can reliably get the radiator fan off, the glow plug light to turn off, and the van started, by tapping on fuse box 1 near the ignition. This makes me think I may have some loose wiring in the ignition switch. Could that affect power to fuses 16 and 17?
Hi Bill, I followed this and don't detect voltage on either side of fuse 16 or 17. When I proceeded with the rest of the test, when pin 44 is triggered, I DO have voltage on pins 1,3 and 5. The actual fuse 16 and 17 check good.
@@FloridaVanMan Good afternoon. I have a parts Sprinter, 2005/2500 like mine, except mine is Freightliner and my spare is Dodge. I recently used the Fuse Block One from my spare and that got rid of one problem, now my turn signals work properly. Still had the same above problem. Yesterday I could no longer hear the relay click when I shorted pin 44. Swapped all three relays from my spare, now I have the click. Also I found a way to reach the little tabs on the fuse ends and I do have proper voltages on fuses 16 and 17. When pin 44 is shorted, I have voltage on pins 1,3 and 5. Per the video screen message, my ECM is probably bad. What next? Thank you so much! I just went to your website and made a donation.
@@GeneCooper-m7u Received, thank you! If your donor van has the same features like cruise control you can swap the ECM, SKREEM & chip in the key. If the vans have key fobs you will want the fobs from the donor and the steel key is swappable so you do not need to change door locks or ignition.
@@FloridaVanMan My spare van does have an ECM and a key. Can I use that ECM and key in my van? Wouldn't I have to have it programmed to work with my van?
Hey Bill, I have had this issue for years on my 2005 Sprinter T1N 2500 OM647 engine. My resolution has always been to wiggle large red wire coming from the bottom of the fuse box while the key is on, until the fan turns off, and either forcing it to turn over, or turning the key off and on again a few more times until i get a regular start up. Would the physical movement of the large red wire indicate that I have a bad fuse box?
No worries at all, thanks for all of your help! I will soon be sending you guys a “tip” for all of your reference material. I replaced my fuse box and my van is now starting with zero issues. It is now a whole new world for me, and way less stress lol. I have another specific question for you, regarding my ac compressor. it will not turn on,and all buttons/gauges are working. Last year I took it to a MB shop where they drained it, and filled it with frion. They suspected “a leaking compressor” and said “I should return in a few weeks to test the levels again.” I am now in Montana, very far away. As of today, I checked the pressure using a frion gauge and it shows zero pressure, the AP200 shows zero pressure as well. I suspect that I need a new AC compressor due to the leak. Is this a common fix, when the AC compressor is leaking, to simply replace the compressor unit as a whole or replace the connections? I am getting on the road in two weeks and wondering if I should just order a new compressor, and replace it myself, since the MB already told me that the compressor is leaking, and to avoid too much hassle in preparing to leave. Or should I find the potential leak, fix it, and hope that the compressor is still up and running?
OK, so I did the tests, the fuse box checks out, I removed the fuses to simulate a bad fuse box or blown fuse to verify. I have voltage on all 3 pins when grounded and pinned into #44. Everything is pointing towards faulty ecu, but SOS just sent this back to me about 5 days ago after I re sent it to them just to verify it is working correctly. Any idea where to go from here ?
Something I didn't cover well enough in the video, this test is only valid if/when the van won't start. If the van starts willingly before testing there is no point as the problem is not presenting itself. If the van starts immediately after the test the results are invalid because we don't know when the symptoms corrected.
The ECM is married to your SKREEM, a box behind the speedometer. The SKREEM is also tied to the chip in your key. When replacing an ECM it is easiest to replace the set of 3 parts. The cut part of the key does not need to be replaced, just the chip imbedded in the handle. This can be cut out and moved to your old key, or copied to a newly cut key with ZedBull. We have a video about key chip copying.
One of three power circuits in the ECM is not getting powered up. Without this power relays that should open remain closed and the fan comes on. Check fuses #7, 16, 17 & 18 under the steering wheel. The fuse box can fail internally and the ECM itself can fail internally.
2003 is an entirely different computer (ECM) and not prone to these specific failures. What are the symptoms you are having? YT is slow for conversations. You can find me on Facebook for faster responses.
there is a stereo ampli fier and I believe I took power away from it to no avail, was an item previous owner installed I will make sure what I disconnected goes to it
This is a GOOD sign... It means your trouble is in an accessory connection, not serious ECM trouble. What do you have 'plugged in' to the van? Any refrigerator, big audio equipment, second battery or wireless phone chargers?
Hello, I am having same issue with my 04 sprinter. Cranks but no start. Replaced cam and crank shaft filter and fuel filter. Brought to a mechanic and when he pulled the ECM and unplugged it the sprinter cranked immediately. The mechanic told me that if it doesnt start again to just unplug ECM and it should start. Took it on test drive, parked it, and now its cranking with no start again. Unplugged ECM and waited a few hours, plugged back in and still not starting. What to do now?
When it will not start does this test pass or fail? If you are getting 12v to all three pins and van still cranks & won't start, check leak-ff test on the injectors and fuel rail. Test fuel pressure out of the filter. We have videos for all these tests/ If those pass contact SOSdiagnostics.com by filling out the forms online and send the ECM to them with a key and WSP (SKREEM). Look for chewed wires behind the speedometer when removing the WSP unit.
It definitely had a bad ECM. The video was made some time ago and I don't remember all the details, but I remember getting the ECM back from SOSdiagnostics and being happy the trouble stopped.
Hey Florida Van Man. I’ve watched tons of valuable videos from your channel I was wondering if you can figure out what’s wrong with my sprinter. 2007 Mercedes Benz 2.1L European 646.986 4 cylinder engine I have two problems going on, maybe related or not Low fuel rail pressure 15bars during cranking (spec value should be above 300) xentry software can actuate the low pressure pump on and off, I’m getting enough fuel fill up and pressure from the 2 ports on the fuel filter I took off the 14mm nut from the pipe on the high pressure fuel pump and the quantity and pressure is very low there. Xentry says pressure control valve monitoring has detected low fuel rail pressure Xentry software also shows synchronization faulty KOEO, and then it changes to RUNNING, then OK during cranking but no start Vehicle starts with a starting fluid after bleeding and priming of the fuel system, but doesn’t run on the vehicle accelerator pedal. Vehicle dies once the starting fluid is taken off I have a 3 wire CAM sensor and a 2 wire CRANK sensor Cam sensor 3 wires unplugged KOEO show (5v ref, 5v sig, 0v ground) With the connector plugged to the sensor KOEO I’m reading (5v ref, 0v sig, 0v ground) Pulling out the CAM sensor from the engine still plugged KOEO (5v ref, 5v sig, 0v ground) Touching the tip of the CAM sensor with a metal (5v ref, 0v sig, 0v ground) No idea what’s going on there and how it’s designed to work CRANK sensor two wire test connector unplugged KOEO (2.45v, 2.45v) Wondering if you have a brilliant idea to give me direction for getting this bad boy to start I admire your understanding of these sprinter vehicles so much, and really hope you can do more sprinter videos of actual good tests values and all that Should I go for high pressure fuel pump replacement or am I looking at cam and crank sensors Hope to hear from you
This is pretty deep and I'd ask you to join our membership program for one on one assistance with this. Please stop using starter spray in Diesel engines. It might get the van running when on the edge of low fuel pressure but not worth the risk of that canned gas exploding too soon in the chamber. Since the van does not continue to run we can conclude the injectors aren't firing at all, so it could be very low fuel pressure or electrically switched-off* somewhere.
I have a 2007 that all of the sudden is giving me a p2506 code which says online low or high voltage to the pcm. As well as I had my abs and esp light come on. I'm assuming they are connected because it happened all at once but not sure.
What code reader are you using? P2506 is not a valid Sprinter code so your code reader is either not setup correctly or it is not compatible with your van. We have links to two good code readers floridavanman.com/links/
Thanks for the video FVM, much appreciated. I have similar symptoms with my 2006 T1N: no crank no start, dash lights come on, no clicking from the starter relay under driver seat. BUT, radiator fan does not come on and the glow plug indicator turns off after 3-5 seconds and does not stay on. Cabin vent fan does come on. With ping 44, the ECM has voltage on pins 1+3+5 and I hear the central relay click on FB1. Would that mean that there is a problem with ECM? Or the fact that the radiator fan does not come on points to a different issue? Note that I replaced the FB1 with a used unit (not confirmed that it works) and swapped the central relay but the issue persists. Have voltage on fuse 16 and 17 FB1. thanks
That does sound like an internal ECM issue. I would confirm it is not just a bad starter then SOS Diagnostics is my go-to for ECM repairs. If the little wire at the starter doesn't get 12v we can rule out the starter, since it isn't being told to turn.
@@FloridaVanMan thanks for taking the time to respond. will test for 12v signal at the starter, otherwise ECM it is. does SOS repair ECUs or am I better to buy an used one and send it off to be reprogrammed? thanks again
My Sprinter van has the fan on won't crank over issue. It's only done it twice in about 5 years, but I'm going to afraid it's going to get me stuck someday. It usually starts the next day luckily I don't use it all the time so it's not a real problem. I will run the tests, but the problem is it's only done it twice in five years so I have to catch it in the broken mode to diagnose it. Because it usually starts every time I use it
I just did these checks and I'm getting the click, but I have no voltage on pins 1, 3, or 5. My fan turns on temporarily and I'm getting "start error" followed by the dash resetting. Any ideas or direction? Thanks in advance, any help would be appreciated Edit: 2006 2.7l turbodiesel has had no problems as a daily driver for over the past year. Drove home thursday after work and wouldnt start friday morning.
Have you checked the fuses at the battery? There are 4-6 fuses there that are hard to see* if they are good or bad. Best to check for 12volts at the bottom of the fuses.
@@FloridaVanMan checked those below the fuse and got battery voltage (12.6) *under each one. I just don't know where to look for information or my next steps without a big bill so I very much appreciate your time, support and videos.
Back at T1N no crank, no start. I had taken the battery out and NAPA says for 3 yrs old cranking amps is like new. I turned the key to start position and nothing happens and dash lighta do not show so I put in new ignition switch. Now, I get dash lights but only for a second then nothing. Disconnected the battery about two weeks ago. Tried today with battery connected and now when I turn key to starter there is a loud (simultaneous) dah dah dah with 1/3 second no sound between dah's and lights on dash are bright. The new ignition switch certainly did change things. I called SOS Diagnostic and the tech man is out this week. I will send email of details for him to read over and reflect about if ECM needs repair. I removed the gray relay (center position under fuse block box and with it removed the electric fan at the radiator turned on. ? I have put in a new gray starter relay next to the yellow fuel pump relay under the drivers seat. Any thoughts on these actions?? We had three deaths of family member in the last two months so that has taken some wind out of the sails. A fourth member; cancer, I give him two-three months. Thanks
I'm sorry to hear about your family losses. I'll be working on a van today that has similar issues to what you describe. Something under the driver seat is causing it and I will let you know what I find today.
Well, I fixed my similar issue and I Hope* this helps with yours. It was a bad connection from the battery ground to the firewall of the van. I was checking voltages everywhere, all good until I noticed the smallest change. Measuring 11.9v at the fuse block seemed proper until I moved my ground pin to a brown wire and read 12.3v to the same spot on the fuse block. I was expecting 11.9v or maybe less, as less would suggest my brown wire was not grounded well. What I learned was my van's body was not grounded well even though the cluster of brown wires at the battery was. Poking my meter on the ground point and 12v+ post I read 12.3v. Poking the stack of ring terminals I read 12.3v, but poking any bare body near the ground or on the engine I read only 11.9v. This led me to find the stack of ground lugs bedded on a spot of rusting body metal. I cleaned it, treated with OSPHO, painted it and then reassembled. First just snugging the bolt and moving all the wires to rub the paint off a contact area, then tightened the bolt until I could not turn the wires.
@@FloridaVanMan Well, as I read your story about hunting for a voltage drop and I believe I like your story better than "A Tail of two Cities" deeeeep stuff. So thanks for the info. I will do a similar search. And let you know, Vincent
Hello sir I have an issue with my 16 3500 any ideas? have a 2016 sprinter 3500 with the four-cylinder turbo diesel periodic starting issues. The truck operates and runs fine once it’s up and running but periodically could be once every couple days or once every couple months the vehicle once shut off will not restart. It cranks no problem but does not officially start. I had a dealer look at the issue it originally was throwing a low pressure fuel pump error code so we replace a low pressure pump change the fuel filter seem to be fine for a week. It is now back to doing the same thing, once the truck sits for an hour or three it will then restart. I’m not really sure where to go because it’s not throwing any codes in the dealer just keeps saying to bring it back to them let it sit until it doesn’t start and then we’re back at square one. I have attached a video of exactly what it does nothing obvious seems to be rather apparent.
I am not familiar with the 2016 or the 4 cylinder, but what you describe sounds like a sticking fuel control valve, either on the hi pressure fuel pump or fuel rail.
Hı..my name is Serhat.from Türkiye ..I've ask you..2005 sprinter show panel in 3 lamps always Light. (Abs-esp and tire) you now problems plase answer thanks so much
On our North American models those three lights indicate a CAN-bus failure. The cause is often bad connections or wrong bulbs in the brake lights and tail lights, reverse cameras and trailer connections.
I'm not as familiar with the 2013 but I'm sure it has a 'start relay' that can go bad. Do the dash lights go dark when the key turned far enough to expect rear-rear-rear-rear? (If you read it out-loud it makes sense). LOL
Hey Florida man intrestinf update as we was speaking about my t1n sprinter So I found fuses 1 2 3 4 and parallel fuses 10 11 12 13 which are on top of the fuse box do not have power coming from the multi volt metre. what would this indicate please I followed ur testing method of the left of the fuse and right of the fuse and can confirm these fuses have zero volts?
Probably the fuse block is bad. Be sure the fuses on the small box mounted to the battery + terminal are all good, and the big red wire combining into the bottom front of the fuse box has power.
@@FloridaVanMan get Florida man. Update. So I had a mechanic come out. I no longer get start errors on the dash so I assume the key is being picked up. Anyway back to main issue of no crank no start. So he connected the violet wire in the multi connector in fuse box one which is for ignition to starter , directly from fuse box to the starter motor plus side+ with a jumper lead and then told me to crank. Abd surely it cranked with the key turned so we eliminated the ignition switch as issue. When we sprayed starter fluid into the air intake the engine started but immediately dies when stopped. He checked we are getting fuel when the starter spins the engine. So with all this info where do you think the problem lies. It seems the van isn’t being told to start the crank phase on its own ? Any advise be much appreciated thank you
@@FloridaVanMan hello So my ecu is bit different looking to yours with multiple connectors locked in tabs ? Any idea of how I would test this uk sprinter like in your video
@@FloridaVanMan hey florida man, so i had the vehicle diangosed as a immoblizer issue, sent it out to a tuning speciliast who told me he cant apply for immo off soloution due to the complex nature of the car , my question is if i disconnect the skreem module i dont get start error , shouldnt it display start error?
I would unplug several things, install a fuse and turn the key on. If it does not pop the fuse immediately start plugging in one relay at a time to see which one pops the fuse. Things to unplug: fuel pump relay, EGR, aux coolant pump, 3 relays under fuse box, alternator wire at battery... off the top of my head. Please consider supporting FVM with monthly or annual membership: patreon.com/Florida_Van_Man?Link&
A faulty park neutral switch was problem in our 2017 Mercedes Sprinter (2018 Pleasure Way). It was never diagnosed correctly by Mercedes dealers until I found the dealership in Rocklin California. They fixed it under warranty and we have never had this problem again.
Hello fellow Bill! I have the intermittent key on, radiator fan blow, no crank issue. I followed this and verified fuses are good, and the pins 1,3,5 voltage with the key off. No voltage, then ground pin 44, relay clicks, power on 1,3,5. I did not do anything further involving wiring changes, just enough to verify the van's electrical integrity. My oddity is that it's intermittent. Most mornings it will cold start no problem, first crank after glow plugs warm. Our issue shows up after the van is warmed up and driven. Sometimes it cranks right away, sometimes I have to cycle the key off/on once, sometimes 10 times. A bit nerve wracking. Any thoughts?
Yep, sounds like the ECM has internal issues. SOS diagnostic can fix it or replace with rebuilt ECM. Likely cost around $800 but I am assuming some things here that may lower that price. I have a set for sale $625 including ECM SKREEM & chips for your keys, shipped. It is a member-only deal and membership starts here floridavanman.com/donate/
is that a stock radio or something added by previous owner. If it is aftermarket you can bet the Acc power wire and Constant 12v wires are reversed. Red and yellow wires need to cross for many of the adaptors on the market. Even if everything looks right, swap the red and yellow wires so yellow goes to red and red goes to yellow.
Thank you! We have several easy ways to support FVM including Superfan here on UA-cam. We are easy to find on Venmo PayPal and CashApp but the best way is membership here: patreon.com/Florida_Van_Man?Link&
Do you mean the pressure control valve, quantity control valve, the pump or one of the relays? Need more information. Does fuse blow when key is off or as soon as key turned on? What fuse?
I must report that the source for T1N van ECM repair in the Los Angeles area is highly suspect due to the very high number of BAD reviews across the board for that company with failure to repair, failure to return calls, failure by returning an ECM that is not the one sent in for repairs and saying your " ECM is bad and we cannot fix it". These repair people are inconsistent and suspect. Read the reviews and beware!! Some one in LA should get a class action going against the people.
What repair business is in L.A.? I have used SOSdiagnostics with great results and read of many others. If it was a commercial break in our video, we have no control over who's ads are placed.
@@FloridaVanMan Good evening, It is modulerepairpro, in Van Nuys. Unbelievable roster of customer complaints. I used to live south of there In LA Am sending my '06 Sprinter ECM to SOS tomorrow along with the SKREEM. All testing pointed at the ECM. I will let you know if and when the repair has been completed.
@@vincentrolfe1384 Oh! I've sent a few to ModuleRepair and been satisfied, but maybe I just didn't realize I was being cheated a little? They definitely told me some were broken and unrepairable. I can't say they were wrong but I don't know they were right either. I know I've spent more than I wanted to, but what does that mean?
Thanks to the florida van man , my 2004 sprinter rolls well.
Good to hear! Thank you for your support and donation.
Well. I talked with a man at a local Chicago Sprinter repair and he said to check for a voltage drop via the neg cable at the battery. There was a 4.5 Volt drop and $50 later for a new cable and all
is good. Hope this helps you as it is a common problem with T1N models. the new ignition switch was a good choice and then the replaced neg battery cable. VR
Thank you so much Bill! Lot of ECM or suspected ECM issues on the forums recently. This is definitely going to help a lot of people.
Thanks!
Thank You! I'm here to help.
At 4:36 on the video; where is the mentioned relay located? Under the fuse box meaning?? please show or tell me where relays are. Thanks
Fuse box #1 is under the steering wheel. At the bottom of that fuse box there are three relays. The center one clicks when pin 44 is grounded.
@@FloridaVanMan Thanks so much FVM and have a good day over there
van man hi, thanks for trying to help, I made sure power to inverter that was installed for lift gate and power taking off of that to amplifier was disconnedted at battery. Nonetheless the ecm 15 amp fuse continues to blow immediatley upon turning the key to ignition contact
Are you close to Central Florida, by any chance? I would try unplugging the ECM and then see if fuse #15 still pops with the key on.
thank you very much for your videos . New to UA-cam did'nt know I can find so much intel!
Thank you. ECM repair is quite costly, are there other tests to perform to help confirm it needs to be repaired?
I offer loaner ECM sets to put in your van. If the problem is resolved you can send your set to SOS for repair and keep driving with my set installed. When you get your set back and installed, send my set back to me for a refund of most of your payment.
@@FloridaVanMan do mind if i message this week on your FB group regarding this? Having same issue (fan on).
@@deweyfong8084 Please do, much easier to chat there.
Hey sir I have 06 and I'm not getting any volts to pin 30 on my starter relay. I checked all my fuses under the wheel and the seat all checked out. I can't find a wire diagram that shows where the 30 pin gets it's power from do you have any advice. Thanks
Check the power distribution block on the front of the battery, ensuring voltage at the bottom of each fuse. Some fuses under steering wheel won't have power without the headlights on, others still won't. I suggest pulling every fuse that isn't easily tested good for 12v on both sides, for good visual inspection. Too many fuses look* good from a quick scan across them all 'in-place'.
Am I following the logic correctly that if the glow plug light stays on (along with all the warning dash lights-maybe a bulb test not the plugs), aux fan humming, no response when turning the key switch to the start position (ie, courtesy light doesn’t dim..no sign of any current draw), and the pin 1, 3, 5 show 12+V with 44 grounded, there is nowhere else to look (hope?) than the ECU?
I have an 06 T1N Itasca Navion….86k miles, fairly gentle life I think, but no crank-no start came out of nowhere. Only prior issue noted was an occasional glow plug error when starting 1st time after sitting while…which I gathered could have been due to low voltage, a bad glow plug , or an ECU problem (or all of the above, right?)….so, maybe ECU wins?
I believe that is correct, when all three pins have expected 12v and the fan comes on with key, the ECM is failing to boot up. SOSdiagnostics.com is well known for this specific repair. I offer a loaner ECM to members of our support group. $650 refundable deposit & $150 gets an ECM set with instructions to:
a) Prove ECM is the problem.
b) Keep your van running while SOS repairs your ECM.
c) 1-on1 assistance solving this problem forever.
@@FloridaVanMan thank you for the reply! You're doing good stuff in the automotive (or van, as it were) world here. I'm guessing that something with my battery recharge methods damaged the ECU. That's a routine I've been doing for 35 years (obviously, not with T1Ns) and prior to this week I thought I was always reasonably careful.
aha , so my 2004 t1n sprinter has this now classic no start with cooling fan coming on ,, I went through the diagnostics showing all is good meaning my problem is ecm.. But But after the test it started. ok great and started again , next day it struggled to try and start then reverted to the cooling fan coming on and no start conditions continued. Tried the elec.test again no change… next day activated that #44 pin again a few times and the van again started. Does this intermittent problem still point to ECM. i’d like to personally thank you very very much for your help with all of our sprinters. I don’t think I would still own it if it were not for the community of help, mostly you Bill.
Yes, that does point to the ECM being at fault. The way it starts after the test lets us wonder if it would have started just prior to the test, and thereby wonder if the intermittent symptoms are hiding when we look for them. But very likely the ECM is at fault.
This is not a good* idea but it works. Next time it won't start, get an 18 or 20volt drill battery or other SMALL battery in that voltage range. Connect the ground of that small battery to the ground of the van battery. With a wire on the +18volt just tap the van battery. The smaller battery will just kick the ECM. It is too small to raise the voltage for more than an instant, but that instant is all we need. This will create a spark when you tap the 18volt wire to the 12volt battery. I don't suggest doing this... but it worked for me hundreds of times before having my ECM repaired. This MIGHT cause your ECM to become unrepairable so use at won risk.
If you happen to be working on a good van could you unplug your maf and turn ignition on to see what voltage you got from ground to both yellow / green and yellow / blue ? On my good van I have 5v on both of these wires with ignition on and maf unplugged.
On my problem van I only have 5v at the yellow/ green and nothing at yellow / blue. If I plug maf in then I get 1.5-1.6v fluctuations on the yellow /blue wire
We have a video on testing the MAF but the engine must run for that and considering which video we are commenting under, I'm guessing yours won't start. One on one support like that is available as a member benefit. These videos are made possible by viewers like you. Please consider membership. floridavanman.com/donate/
I tore aftermarket radio apart disabling power and fuse quit blowing
I try this test because mi van has same problem but the pin 1,3, 5 have 4.90V and the relay doesn't click that means the ECM is bad?
No, that means you have power supply problems getting to the ECM. Something is not feeding the wires power that the ECM needs.
I have that intermittent start problem when the cooling fan comes on with the key with my 2005 T!N. How do you trouble shoot that when everything seems to be working? I'm afraid I'm going to be stranded somewhere. HELP me ts this when everything is working at home. What could be working fine sometime and then quit at another time??
That is not an uncommon problem. We need to do this test in the video when the van won't start. If we find one of the 3 pins not getting power we can fix the van. But if all three pins get power and the fan still comes on the failing circuit is inside the ECM. I just got 2 ECM units back from SOSdiagnostics.com fixing this problem.
Thanks so much for this video, its very helpful. I feel like I'm super close but I'm not quite understanding my issue just yet. I hope you can help.
I have a 2005 T1N, and with the key in the on position, the car won't crank, wont start, and the radiator fan turns on. With the key in the ON position, I checked the 16 and 17 fuses under the steering wheel and they don't show any voltage on either side, although both have been verified good. With the key removed, I pulled the ECM down and checked 1, 3, and 5 on the BCM with the 44 clicked, and I get voltage on all three.
Does this sound like a fuse box issue, ECM issue, or possibly faulty ground wiring coming from the battery through the firewall?
Internal ECM issue. The test showing voltage at all three pins confirms the van is sending voltage to the ECM on those three circuits, as it should. The fan coming on and no-crank tells us the ECM is not outputting voltage on one of those circuits. Before we condemn the ECM please check fuse #7 & #18. I think all the fuses will get power when the key is turned on but I'm not 100% sure.
For a small fee I offer a loaner ECM for proving the problem and keeping the van running while you send your ECM for repair. I send an ECM and associated parts with help and instruction video showing you how to install the 3 parts. If that solves your problems you will send your ECM and associated parts for repair. When your parts come back and are reinstalled in your van you can send my loaner parts back for a refund. This service is only available to support group members. Membership starts here: patreon.com/Florida_Van_Man?Link&
Thanks for your quick reply - I double checked and #7 and #18 have voltage, but #16 and #17 don't have any voltage, just like all the headlamp fuses (unless I turn those features on).
Some of my grounding wires coming through the firewall look like there was excessive heat, as the insulation has come off a bit. I was wondering if the ECM might be working when 1, 3, and 5 show voltage because the 44 had a new ground from our multimeter as you instructed. Do you think the grounding path is worth me diving deeper in or is that a non issue based on the tests you show in the video (maybe we eliminated that possibility and I just didn't realize it :))
I checked the voltages on all those fuses yesterday while working on another van. They all get voltage when the key is on so finding why yours are not getting voltage will be a big step in finding the problem. Check the fuses at the front of your battery. 2 or 3 of them feed various circuits under the driver seat. @@jamescarr-nelson3077
Thanks for your help earlier, I thought I got through this but 5 months later and the problem has resurfaced several times after thinking I fixed it. The issue is intermittent so troubleshooting is a bit difficult.
When the issue arises, I don't get voltage to the 86 pin of the starter relay in fuse box 2 (my understanding is I should be getting 12v). In addition, I don't get continuity to ground from the 85 pin. I can reliably get the radiator fan off, the glow plug light to turn off, and the van started, by tapping on fuse box 1 near the ignition.
This makes me think I may have some loose wiring in the ignition switch. Could that affect power to fuses 16 and 17?
Hi Bill, I followed this and don't detect voltage on either side of fuse 16 or 17. When I proceeded with the rest of the test, when pin 44 is triggered, I DO have voltage on pins 1,3 and 5. The actual fuse 16 and 17 check good.
16 & 17 won't have power until the key is turned on. If you test them while pin 44 is grounded I think you will find power to both.
@@FloridaVanMan Good afternoon. I have a parts Sprinter, 2005/2500 like mine, except mine is Freightliner and my spare is Dodge. I recently used the Fuse Block One from my spare and that got rid of one problem, now my turn signals work properly. Still had the same above problem. Yesterday I could no longer hear the relay click when I shorted pin 44. Swapped all three relays from my spare, now I have the click. Also I found a way to reach the little tabs on the fuse ends and I do have proper voltages on fuses 16 and 17. When pin 44 is shorted, I have voltage on pins 1,3 and 5. Per the video screen message, my ECM is probably bad. What next? Thank you so much! I just went to your website and made a donation.
@@GeneCooper-m7u Received, thank you! If your donor van has the same features like cruise control you can swap the ECM, SKREEM & chip in the key. If the vans have key fobs you will want the fobs from the donor and the steel key is swappable so you do not need to change door locks or ignition.
@@GeneCooper-m7u If your donor van doesn't have an ECM set with key I suggest sending the set to SOSdiagnostics.com
@@FloridaVanMan My spare van does have an ECM and a key. Can I use that ECM and key in my van? Wouldn't I have to have it programmed to work with my van?
Hey Bill, I have had this issue for years on my 2005 Sprinter T1N 2500 OM647 engine. My resolution has always been to wiggle large red wire coming from the bottom of the fuse box while the key is on, until the fan turns off, and either forcing it to turn over, or turning the key off and on again a few more times until i get a regular start up. Would the physical movement of the large red wire indicate that I have a bad fuse box?
Yes. Cheap and easy fix but hard to identify. Looks like you did the hard part now.
Are you guys hiring/seeking apprenticeships?
@@graveyardworm We are growing but far from able to hire, even part time.
No worries at all, thanks for all of your help! I will soon be sending you guys a “tip” for all of your reference material. I replaced my fuse box and my van is now starting with zero issues. It is now a whole new world for me, and way less stress lol.
I have another specific question for you, regarding my ac compressor. it will not turn on,and all buttons/gauges are working. Last year I took it to a MB shop where they drained it, and filled it with frion. They suspected “a leaking compressor” and said “I should return in a few weeks to test the levels again.” I am now in Montana, very far away. As of today, I checked the pressure using a frion gauge and it shows zero pressure, the AP200 shows zero pressure as well. I suspect that I need a new AC compressor due to the leak. Is this a common fix, when the AC compressor is leaking, to simply replace the compressor unit as a whole or replace the connections? I am getting on the road in two weeks and wondering if I should just order a new compressor, and replace it myself, since the MB already told me that the compressor is leaking, and to avoid too much hassle in preparing to leave. Or should I find the potential leak, fix it, and hope that the compressor is still up and running?
OK, so I did the tests, the fuse box checks out, I removed the fuses to simulate a bad fuse box or blown fuse to verify. I have voltage on all 3 pins when grounded and pinned into #44. Everything is pointing towards faulty ecu, but SOS just sent this back to me about 5 days ago after I re sent it to them just to verify it is working correctly. Any idea where to go from here ?
Something I didn't cover well enough in the video, this test is only valid if/when the van won't start. If the van starts willingly before testing there is no point as the problem is not presenting itself. If the van starts immediately after the test the results are invalid because we don't know when the symptoms corrected.
Is my ECM programed to either my van or my key? or can I get a used ECM out of the junkyard and plug and play in my 2005 t1n? Thanks!
The ECM is married to your SKREEM, a box behind the speedometer. The SKREEM is also tied to the chip in your key. When replacing an ECM it is easiest to replace the set of 3 parts. The cut part of the key does not need to be replaced, just the chip imbedded in the handle. This can be cut out and moved to your old key, or copied to a newly cut key with ZedBull. We have a video about key chip copying.
Thanks os much!! Q: What is the problem if it won't crank and the fan comes on intermittently on a 2006 2500?
One of three power circuits in the ECM is not getting powered up. Without this power relays that should open remain closed and the fan comes on. Check fuses #7, 16, 17 & 18 under the steering wheel. The fuse box can fail internally and the ECM itself can fail internally.
How is on 2003 sprinter wich wires 03 sprinter have different plugs?
2003 is an entirely different computer (ECM) and not prone to these specific failures. What are the symptoms you are having? YT is slow for conversations. You can find me on Facebook for faster responses.
I don't seem to be getting any power to the fuses on the box???
There are fuses at the battery + terminal. One of them feeds the fuse box. ua-cam.com/video/cd4uoGEjct8/v-deo.html
there is a stereo ampli
fier and I believe I took power away from it to no avail, was an item previous owner installed
I will make sure what I disconnected goes to it
Going to try this test today. Thanks dude !
Fuse #17 blows when I turn key, Where is power coming from that causes the fuse to burn?
This is a GOOD sign... It means your trouble is in an accessory connection, not serious ECM trouble. What do you have 'plugged in' to the van? Any refrigerator, big audio equipment, second battery or wireless phone chargers?
yes there is a large amplifier in one of the walls midway back@@FloridaVanMan
Hello, I am having same issue with my 04 sprinter. Cranks but no start. Replaced cam and crank shaft filter and fuel filter. Brought to a mechanic and when he pulled the ECM and unplugged it the sprinter cranked immediately. The mechanic told me that if it doesnt start again to just unplug ECM and it should start. Took it on test drive, parked it, and now its cranking with no start again. Unplugged ECM and waited a few hours, plugged back in and still not starting. What to do now?
When it will not start does this test pass or fail? If you are getting 12v to all three pins and van still cranks & won't start, check leak-ff test on the injectors and fuel rail. Test fuel pressure out of the filter. We have videos for all these tests/ If those pass contact SOSdiagnostics.com by filling out the forms online and send the ECM to them with a key and WSP (SKREEM). Look for chewed wires behind the speedometer when removing the WSP unit.
So this van your working on had a defective ecm???
It definitely had a bad ECM. The video was made some time ago and I don't remember all the details, but I remember getting the ECM back from SOSdiagnostics and being happy the trouble stopped.
Hey Florida Van Man. I’ve watched tons of valuable videos from your channel I was wondering if you can figure out what’s wrong with my sprinter. 2007 Mercedes Benz 2.1L European 646.986 4 cylinder engine
I have two problems going on, maybe related or not
Low fuel rail pressure 15bars during cranking (spec value should be above 300) xentry software can actuate the low pressure pump on and off, I’m getting enough fuel fill up and pressure from the 2 ports on the fuel filter
I took off the 14mm nut from the pipe on the high pressure fuel pump and the quantity and pressure is very low there.
Xentry says pressure control valve monitoring has detected low fuel rail pressure
Xentry software also shows synchronization faulty KOEO, and then it changes to RUNNING, then OK during cranking but no start
Vehicle starts with a starting fluid after bleeding and priming of the fuel system, but doesn’t run on the vehicle accelerator pedal. Vehicle dies once the starting fluid is taken off
I have a 3 wire CAM sensor and a 2 wire CRANK sensor
Cam sensor 3 wires unplugged KOEO show (5v ref, 5v sig, 0v ground)
With the connector plugged to the sensor KOEO I’m reading (5v ref, 0v sig, 0v ground)
Pulling out the CAM sensor from the engine still plugged KOEO (5v ref, 5v sig, 0v ground)
Touching the tip of the CAM sensor with a metal (5v ref, 0v sig, 0v ground)
No idea what’s going on there and how it’s designed to work
CRANK sensor two wire test connector unplugged KOEO (2.45v, 2.45v)
Wondering if you have a brilliant idea to give me direction for getting this bad boy to start
I admire your understanding of these sprinter vehicles so much, and really hope you can do more sprinter videos of actual good tests values and all that
Should I go for high pressure fuel pump replacement or am I looking at cam and crank sensors
Hope to hear from you
This is pretty deep and I'd ask you to join our membership program for one on one assistance with this. Please stop using starter spray in Diesel engines. It might get the van running when on the edge of low fuel pressure but not worth the risk of that canned gas exploding too soon in the chamber. Since the van does not continue to run we can conclude the injectors aren't firing at all, so it could be very low fuel pressure or electrically switched-off* somewhere.
I have a 2007 that all of the sudden is giving me a p2506 code which says online low or high voltage to the pcm. As well as I had my abs and esp light come on. I'm assuming they are connected because it happened all at once but not sure.
What code reader are you using? P2506 is not a valid Sprinter code so your code reader is either not setup correctly or it is not compatible with your van. We have links to two good code readers floridavanman.com/links/
@@FloridaVanMan it's just the toque app with a Bluetooth reader. I'll check the link you sent
@@MrTaylorfenoglio That's generic OBD and will give you false clues and misinterpretations.
Thanks for the video FVM, much appreciated. I have similar symptoms with my 2006 T1N: no crank no start, dash lights come on, no clicking from the starter relay under driver seat. BUT, radiator fan does not come on and the glow plug indicator turns off after 3-5 seconds and does not stay on. Cabin vent fan does come on. With ping 44, the ECM has voltage on pins 1+3+5 and I hear the central relay click on FB1. Would that mean that there is a problem with ECM? Or the fact that the radiator fan does not come on points to a different issue? Note that I replaced the FB1 with a used unit (not confirmed that it works) and swapped the central relay but the issue persists. Have voltage on fuse 16 and 17 FB1. thanks
That does sound like an internal ECM issue. I would confirm it is not just a bad starter then SOS Diagnostics is my go-to for ECM repairs. If the little wire at the starter doesn't get 12v we can rule out the starter, since it isn't being told to turn.
@@FloridaVanMan thanks for taking the time to respond. will test for 12v signal at the starter, otherwise ECM it is. does SOS repair ECUs or am I better to buy an used one and send it off to be reprogrammed? thanks again
@@kosmol2010 SOS repairs. Tell them I sent you. sosdiagnostics.com/
Hello can you please tell me where is located the central relay on FB1 please ? What is FB1 ? Thank you
My Sprinter van has the fan on won't crank over issue. It's only done it twice in about 5 years, but I'm going to afraid it's going to get me stuck someday. It usually starts the next day luckily I don't use it all the time so it's not a real problem. I will run the tests, but the problem is it's only done it twice in five years so I have to catch it in the broken mode to diagnose it. Because it usually starts every time I use it
Hard to find a problem like that. When it acts-up is never the right time to diagnose it.
Mine does the same thing. But I pull it with my toyota a couple feet and it starts. But now I know what to look for thank you.
I just did these checks and I'm getting the click, but I have no voltage on pins 1, 3, or 5. My fan turns on temporarily and I'm getting "start error" followed by the dash resetting. Any ideas or direction? Thanks in advance, any help would be appreciated
Edit: 2006 2.7l turbodiesel has had no problems as a daily driver for over the past year. Drove home thursday after work and wouldnt start friday morning.
Have you checked the fuses at the battery? There are 4-6 fuses there that are hard to see* if they are good or bad. Best to check for 12volts at the bottom of the fuses.
@@FloridaVanMan thanks for the reply FVM. I'll check on those tomorrow.
@@FloridaVanMan checked those below the fuse and got battery voltage (12.6) *under each one. I just don't know where to look for information or my next steps without a big bill so I very much appreciate your time, support and videos.
Back at T1N no crank, no start. I had taken the battery out and NAPA says for 3 yrs old cranking amps is like new. I turned the key to start position and nothing happens and dash lighta do not show so I put in new ignition switch. Now, I get dash lights but only for a second then nothing. Disconnected the battery about two weeks ago. Tried today with battery connected and now when I turn key to starter there is a loud (simultaneous) dah dah dah with 1/3 second no sound between dah's and lights on dash are bright. The new ignition switch certainly did change things.
I called SOS Diagnostic and the tech man is out this week. I will send email of details for him to read over and reflect about if ECM needs repair.
I removed the gray relay (center position under fuse block box and with it removed the electric fan at the radiator turned on. ?
I have put in a new gray starter relay next to the yellow fuel pump relay under the drivers seat.
Any thoughts on these actions??
We had three deaths of family member in the last two months so that has taken some wind out of the sails. A fourth member; cancer, I give him two-three months.
Thanks
I'm sorry to hear about your family losses. I'll be working on a van today that has similar issues to what you describe. Something under the driver seat is causing it and I will let you know what I find today.
@@FloridaVanMan Thanks for the thoughts. Have a good day in Florida and good luck, thanks again. Vincent
Well, I fixed my similar issue and I Hope* this helps with yours. It was a bad connection from the battery ground to the firewall of the van. I was checking voltages everywhere, all good until I noticed the smallest change. Measuring 11.9v at the fuse block seemed proper until I moved my ground pin to a brown wire and read 12.3v to the same spot on the fuse block. I was expecting 11.9v or maybe less, as less would suggest my brown wire was not grounded well. What I learned was my van's body was not grounded well even though the cluster of brown wires at the battery was.
Poking my meter on the ground point and 12v+ post I read 12.3v. Poking the stack of ring terminals I read 12.3v, but poking any bare body near the ground or on the engine I read only 11.9v. This led me to find the stack of ground lugs bedded on a spot of rusting body metal. I cleaned it, treated with OSPHO, painted it and then reassembled. First just snugging the bolt and moving all the wires to rub the paint off a contact area, then tightened the bolt until I could not turn the wires.
@@FloridaVanMan Well, as I read your story about hunting for a voltage drop and I believe I like your story better than "A Tail of two Cities" deeeeep stuff. So thanks for the info.
I will do a similar search. And let you know, Vincent
Should be Tale not what monkeys have tail. hahahaha Never made good grades in high school for spelling!
Thank you for your help
Hello sir I have an issue with my 16 3500 any ideas?
have a 2016 sprinter 3500 with the four-cylinder turbo diesel periodic starting issues. The truck operates and runs fine once it’s up and running but periodically could be once every couple days or once every couple months the vehicle once shut off will not restart. It cranks no problem but does not officially start. I had a dealer look at the issue it originally was throwing a low pressure fuel pump error code so we replace a low pressure pump change the fuel filter seem to be fine for a week.
It is now back to doing the same thing, once the truck sits for an hour or three it will then restart. I’m not really sure where to go because it’s not throwing any codes in the dealer just keeps saying to bring it back to them let it sit until it doesn’t start and then we’re back at square one.
I have attached a video of exactly what it does nothing obvious seems to be rather apparent.
I am not familiar with the 2016 or the 4 cylinder, but what you describe sounds like a sticking fuel control valve, either on the hi pressure fuel pump or fuel rail.
Hı..my name is Serhat.from Türkiye ..I've ask you..2005 sprinter show panel in 3 lamps always Light. (Abs-esp and tire) you now problems plase answer thanks so much
On our North American models those three lights indicate a CAN-bus failure. The cause is often bad connections or wrong bulbs in the brake lights and tail lights, reverse cameras and trailer connections.
I have a 2013 sprinter. Dash lights come on but won’t do anything when I turn the key.
I'm not as familiar with the 2013 but I'm sure it has a 'start relay' that can go bad. Do the dash lights go dark when the key turned far enough to expect rear-rear-rear-rear? (If you read it out-loud it makes sense). LOL
@@FloridaVanMan no the dash lights stay the same. There is no clicking or nothing when I turn the key to start.
@@justindemott4990 I'm kinda guessing, but that sounds like the switch behind the key has gone south.
@@FloridaVanMan is this something easy to change or dealer only?
Hey Florida man intrestinf update as we was speaking about my t1n sprinter
So I found fuses 1 2 3 4 and parallel fuses 10 11 12 13 which are on top of the fuse box do not have power coming from the multi volt metre. what would this indicate please
I followed ur testing method of the left of the fuse and right of the fuse and can confirm these fuses have zero volts?
Probably the fuse block is bad. Be sure the fuses on the small box mounted to the battery + terminal are all good, and the big red wire combining into the bottom front of the fuse box has power.
@@FloridaVanMan get Florida man. Update.
So I had a mechanic come out. I no longer get start errors on the dash so I assume the key is being picked up.
Anyway back to main issue of no crank no start.
So he connected the violet wire in the multi connector in fuse box one which is for ignition to starter , directly from fuse box to the starter motor plus side+ with a jumper lead and then told me to crank. Abd surely it cranked with the key turned so we eliminated the ignition switch as issue.
When we sprayed starter fluid into the air intake the engine started but immediately dies when stopped.
He checked we are getting fuel when the starter spins the engine.
So with all this info where do you think the problem lies. It seems the van isn’t being told to start the crank phase on its own ? Any advise be much appreciated thank you
@@handyvoice3943 Other the ECM or the Fues block. The test in this video will help determine which is at fault.
@@FloridaVanMan hello
So my ecu is bit different looking to yours with multiple connectors locked in tabs ? Any idea of how I would test this uk sprinter like in your video
@@FloridaVanMan hey florida man, so i had the vehicle diangosed as a immoblizer issue, sent it out to a tuning speciliast who told me he cant apply for immo off soloution due to the complex nature of the car , my question is if i disconnect the skreem module i dont get start error , shouldnt it display start error?
Scan reader said Ecm needs to be replaced. Symptoms are rolling coal and no turbo spooling
Join my support group for 1-on-1 help. This is not an ECM problem, for sure.
Where you working what citi?
Between Orlando and Daytona n central Florida. I don't have a shop, just playing at home.
blows when key turned all the way even before any other engagement, Fuse 17, ecu.
I would unplug several things, install a fuse and turn the key on. If it does not pop the fuse immediately start plugging in one relay at a time to see which one pops the fuse. Things to unplug: fuel pump relay, EGR, aux coolant pump, 3 relays under fuse box, alternator wire at battery... off the top of my head. Please consider supporting FVM with monthly or annual membership: patreon.com/Florida_Van_Man?Link&
A faulty park neutral switch was problem in our 2017 Mercedes Sprinter (2018 Pleasure Way). It was never diagnosed correctly by Mercedes dealers until I found the dealership in Rocklin California. They fixed it under warranty and we have never had this problem again.
Great video 😎👍
Hello fellow Bill! I have the intermittent key on, radiator fan blow, no crank issue. I followed this and verified fuses are good, and the pins 1,3,5 voltage with the key off. No voltage, then ground pin 44, relay clicks, power on 1,3,5. I did not do anything further involving wiring changes, just enough to verify the van's electrical integrity. My oddity is that it's intermittent. Most mornings it will cold start no problem, first crank after glow plugs warm. Our issue shows up after the van is warmed up and driven. Sometimes it cranks right away, sometimes I have to cycle the key off/on once, sometimes 10 times. A bit nerve wracking. Any thoughts?
Yep, sounds like the ECM has internal issues. SOS diagnostic can fix it or replace with rebuilt ECM. Likely cost around $800 but I am assuming some things here that may lower that price. I have a set for sale $625 including ECM SKREEM & chips for your keys, shipped. It is a member-only deal and membership starts here floridavanman.com/donate/
radio I turn it off, yet when I turn key it comes on, gonna unplug radio
is that a stock radio or something added by previous owner. If it is aftermarket you can bet the Acc power wire and Constant 12v wires are reversed. Red and yellow wires need to cross for many of the adaptors on the market. Even if everything looks right, swap the red and yellow wires so yellow goes to red and red goes to yellow.
Thank you. Great video
So the fuse box was bad on this van your working on
No, the ECM was the problem.
I will donate
Thank you! We have several easy ways to support FVM including Superfan here on UA-cam. We are easy to find on Venmo PayPal and CashApp but the best way is membership here: patreon.com/Florida_Van_Man?Link&
put in a bigger fuse and blows . where are fuel solenoids?
Do you mean the pressure control valve, quantity control valve, the pump or one of the relays? Need more information. Does fuse blow when key is off or as soon as key turned on? What fuse?
I must report that the source for T1N van ECM repair in the Los Angeles area is highly suspect due to the very high number of BAD reviews across the board for that company with failure to repair, failure to return calls, failure by returning an ECM that is not the one sent in for repairs and saying your " ECM is bad and we cannot fix it". These repair people are inconsistent and suspect.
Read the reviews and beware!! Some one in LA should get a class action going against the people.
What repair business is in L.A.? I have used SOSdiagnostics with great results and read of many others. If it was a commercial break in our video, we have no control over who's ads are placed.
@@FloridaVanMan Good evening, It is modulerepairpro, in Van Nuys. Unbelievable roster of customer complaints. I used to live south of there In LA
Am sending my '06 Sprinter ECM to SOS tomorrow along with the SKREEM. All testing pointed at the ECM. I will let you know if and when the repair has been completed.
@@vincentrolfe1384 Oh! I've sent a few to ModuleRepair and been satisfied, but maybe I just didn't realize I was being cheated a little? They definitely told me some were broken and unrepairable. I can't say they were wrong but I don't know they were right either. I know I've spent more than I wanted to, but what does that mean?